E-GAS or electronic gas pedal is installed on all Lada models (XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Granta, Kalina, Priora and Niva 4x4). Owner reviews about it are not reassuring; many complain that the e-gas pedal is “dumb” (less sensitive and informative than a conventional cable). Did you know that in some cases the electronic accelerator pedal can be adjusted to be more responsive and a little livelier?
We determine the model of the accelerator pedal; this can be done by the catalog number, which is glued to the side of the body. If you cannot access the sticker, you will have to remove the electronic gas pedal:
- Disconnect the block with wires next to the gas pedal;
- Unscrew three nuts using a 10mm wrench;
- Remove the housing and pedal assembly.
The manufacturer installs at least two types of electronic gas pedals on Lada cars (depending on the year of manufacture):
- Old model (catalog number: 11183-1108500);
- New sample (article: 11183-1108500-01).
Each block is modified differently. Attention! You do all further actions at your own peril and risk. In addition, you may lose your warranty.
Adjusting old-style E-gas
The block cover (11183-1108500) is fixed with bolts that are inserted into oval holes. The improvement is this. to loosen the 4 screws and turn the cover in the desired direction:
- Economy mode (counterclockwise). To drive smoothly, to accelerate, you should press the pedal a little more than before. Gasoline consumption is reduced;
- Active mode (clockwise). The car reacts even with slight pressure on the gas pedal. Gasoline consumption increases. The pedal becomes more sensitive and informative.
In other words, we get the same effect as after installing JETTER (Jetter or spur).
It has been noticed that the first minutes after such settings, the idle speed may be increased (about 1300 rpm). But after a minute, the ECU gradually adjusted and the speed dropped to the usual level. If this does not happen, turn on the ignition for a minute and then start the engine.
If necessary, you can easily return to the original position (mark it in advance).
Adjusting the Accelerator pedal. Did not help.
I decided to try it. They praise it too much. My pedal is not adjustable, so I first read it here www.drive2.ru/l/489776905910747355/, and I want to write about the results.
He tore off the seal and opened it. I moved the position of the moving contact just a little bit. I returned the pedal to the car. And the accelerator pedal in the free position according to OpenDiag shows 4%. Well, I think to hell with him, he adapts. Started it up... The speed is 1500...1200...1000 and doesn’t drop. I revved it up, turned it off and started it, adapted the throttle to 0... it didn’t help.
I took it off again and moved the moving contact a little back. OpenDiag showed 3%. The car started up normally, 900 rpm, but the sound was strange. Well, I think it’s cold, it will warm up just fine. Nevermind! According to OpenDiag, the engine does not go to idle when the gas pedal is released. Although the consumption is the same as at idle.
I took a ride. And in truth, the motor is more responsive. The pedal responds willingly. But with a free pedal, the sound of the engine is kind of creepy. Not loud, but some kind of aching or whining.
Well, screw it, it’s not normal without idling, I returned it as it was from the factory. Now according to OpenDiag it is 0% with a free pedal.
This adjustment only makes sense if there is free play in the pedal. I didn't have one, but I wanted to increase responsiveness this way. But nothing useful came of it.
Source
Hi all! So my long-time dream of defeating the stupid E-gas pedal has come true! This evening I went to see a car chip technician I know and a miracle happened, it only took him 40 minutes for my car to turn from a vegetable into a speedster! I’ll immediately explain that I needed the gas pedal to adequately respond to pressing, the increase of 100-1000 Russian ponies after this process did not interest me, I already have enough engine in my car! I was pleased with the result, you press the gas and the car really drives and doesn’t stall, I don’t know what the master filled in, I just explained what I wanted and I got it! I also noticed that the car now starts with half a turn, but before it was turned on for 2-3 seconds, the fan switching on was moved to 96 degrees, the temperature gauge is now clearly at 90 degrees and does not float from 90-100 degrees, although here it’s +30 and the air conditioner is threshing all the way! Something like this, I don’t know about consumption yet, before the firmware the average was 14.5-15l/100! All the best!
Refinement of a new electronic gas pedal
The pedal assembly (11183-1108500-01) does not have oval holes, which does not allow adjustment in the manner described above. Instead, it is proposed to cut off the protrusion (by 2-3 mm), which prevents the pedal from moving completely. This modernization made it possible to increase the pedal travel, which made acceleration with “pedal to the floor” more active. It is also noted that there is no hesitation when pressing the pedal sharply.
What I don’t like about the pedal assembly (8450008980), which is installed on Lada Vesta:
- tight gas pedal;
- large free play of the gas pedal (about 8 mm at the tip of the pedal).
What was decided to do:
- remove one of the return springs to make the pedal softer;
- Place a spacer to reduce the free play of the pedal.
How to measure pedal free play:
- Let's start the engine.
- Place a ruler at the tip of the pedal.
- Smoothly press the pedal until the engine begins to gain speed.
- We remember the distance on the ruler.
We remove and disassemble the electronic gas pedal:
- Disconnect the connector (by pressing the inside of the upper part of the latch)
- Unscrew three nuts (head “10”).
- Remove the top cover by unscrewing the fastening screws.
- Remove the rheostat slider by unscrewing the screw.
- Remove the spring (holding them with a screwdriver from the outside).
- Remove the white support spacers, remembering how they were installed.
- We measure the distance between the support pad of the return spring lever and the support rubber in the body, retracting the pedal to the amount of free play (indicated by an arrow).
- We glue the material of the same thickness (in this example we use 4 mm stickers for furniture legs and doors) using glue or double-sided tape.
We assemble the pedal assembly and install it in the car. The idle motion of the pedal should be minimal, about 1 mm. If the engine idle speed is higher than usual, and there is no free play of the pedal at all, then too much has been added. You will have to repeat the adjustment operation, adjusting the thickness of the lining. The same thing applies if the free play after adjustment remains more than 1-2 mm.
Lada Vesta failures during acceleration
I also encountered a problem with jerking. The situation is this: many people complain from the very beginning that the car does not move and there are jerks when changing gears. So, I didn’t have this from the very beginning, acceleration from the bottom, dynamics, gear shifting - everything is excellent. I really didn’t understand what people were talking about. Now the mileage is 8500 and I recently found out what it is and it’s really annoying. How it happened - I always noticed that when gasoline approaches the red zone, the car drives worse. I had to drive about 15-20 km on the light bulb, then I filled the tank full and the problem started. It could be a coincidence, of course. I've already driven off the gasoline, that's not the problem. The cravings also became worse. You press the gas, it stalls for 1-2 seconds, then it jerks. The question is: has anyone tried to combat this by replacing spark plugs and coils? I had a similar problem on my viburnum when one of the coils burned out. I’m not going to the officials yet, they’ll still say it’s normal. The essence of the question is that the car can drive normally if it was driving before, but many suffer from these jerks. Engine 1.8 manual, April release square ramp.
Hello! Start with spark plugs and rubber hoses of the V.C. gas system. and do a throttle adaptation! It should help.
On naturally aspirated gasoline engines, gear shifting starts at 2500 engine rpm if you drive 1500-2000 in 2,3, etc. the engine is under tension and jerks, diesel is different and has more torque
Hi all! Yesterday I went to the dealer about the car jerking and poor acceleration dynamics, maybe I think the ramp will be replaced under warranty, especially since my car is subject to a ramp replacement. And after diagnosing the car, it was politely sent to hell...! They said: there are no errors, crappy gas, look for a good gas station and charged 500₽ for diagnostics. This is fine?
Ilya, maybe they said something about gasoline, they weren’t lying. Somehow I thought about it, thought about it, and came to the conclusion that, yes, gasoline and its quality are important. Somehow it took about three months to fill up with gasoline at Bashneft. It was great for two months, and then, no matter how it doesn’t go, it jerks. It was a mess for a month. The impression is that a lot of air is being supplied to the system. There’s a guy at work, also a designer, he just has a Vesta station wagon, he refueled there too, that’s what happened too. Then I saw that he lives near a gas station, they closed it there and let’s clean all the tanks, they rarely did this. The guy switched to another gas station and was glad. I burned almost all the fuel, refueled at another gas station, 92, as if the saints had flown over the house. Then I filled it with 95 and the car completely flew off.
I went to one with the same problem. At first they said that I simply did not know how to use the clutch. Then they claimed that it was impossible to rev above 3000 rpm. Then they said it was a matter of gasoline. After I countered all their arguments, the warranty engineer remembered that there were no errors. Well, I got an answer to that)). Errors only occur when there is a misfire, and this is only one of many symptoms and its presence is not necessary. After that, they agreed to send an application to the plant. On September 10, they said that the plant had approved the replacement and still nothing.
Greetings! 1.8 manual transmission. After 1,500 km, a humming noise appeared when moving backwards (neutral or gear does not matter). Moreover, the longer it stood, the stronger the hum; it disappeared after 2-4 seconds and did not always appear. I'll try to take a video today if possible. I have not found a similar phenomenon in anyone. In a week I’ll go to TO-0, and I’ll present it there!
Hello everyone. Finally, I solved the problem with twitching and failures of 1.2 and it happened on the third! I have a cross 1.8 manual transmission with a mileage of 25,000 thousand. For a long time I was looking for how to solve this problem, I went to all the diagnostics in my city, the dealer in my city said this is the norm, so I gave up on it, so So I started looking in electronics first, everything was fine! In mechanical components, everything is fine! I checked the ECU probably 6 times, went to all different firmware specialists, went to no avail, spark plugs, throttle valve adaptation, tried everything and all to no avail! Well, I think I'm fucked up, I decided to sell the cross. I took my car for maintenance and after a while the manager calls me and says, are you comfortable driving the car? I say "No! I’ll sell it all twitching and spitting, and here he is, we can solve this problem by flashing the ECU, I tell him that I’ve done the flashing 6 times and all the different specialists are of no use! And he tells me we don’t know how to flash, and we order a program from Moscow, but I think let’s try. I’m on my way to pick up the car, at the service center they tell me to take it for a ride, and I was just like, oh, I just drove it all day and all night! The car is completely different! The dips, all sorts of spitting and the like disappeared, the car was just fire and traction appeared! So why am I all this, it’s all about the firmware, get the firmware done by trusted specialists! And by the way, my ramp is ROUND! And my catalyst has been removed. And now I'm happy with the car! All the best
