How to check the electronic gas pedal and repair it if necessary

In connection with the introduction of European exhaust emission standards, at the beginning of 2011, the AvtoVAZ concern began equipping Lada cars with the E-gas system. Subsequently, the manufacturer provided Grant with an electronic gas pedal.

The general meaning of the operation of the electronic system is that by moving the gas selector pedal, special sensors are activated, which are located in the gas pedal module (hereinafter referred to as MPG). With each change in the force exerted on the MG, the resistance of the sensors also changes. After which an electrical signal is generated, which enters the ECU, is read, processed, and depending on the degree of pressing and the results of processing, the final operation of the throttle valve is regulated.

We set off up the hill, helping ourselves with the handbrake

If on level ground you can practice the starting moment for a long time and safely, then when starting up a hill you should be especially careful and be sure to use the basic skills you have already acquired. In this case, the risk of a rollback is added to the negative influence factors. As a result, the novice driver holds the car on the slope with the brake pedal, and when the green light turns on, he frantically puts his right foot on the gas, hoping to make it in time, and stalls, rolling back. Of course, none of those waiting behind will like this situation. Therefore, you need to train in deserted places so as not to create an emergency situation.

When you approach an intersection or stop for any other reason on an incline, you need to immediately tighten the handbrake cable. To start, you need to do everything as in the case of starting on a flat road, but release the handbrake only at the moment when the gas pedal is already lightly pressed. You can understand that the handbrake needs to be lowered by the characteristic rush of the car forward; a slight vibration occurs; due to the increase in pressure in the area of ​​traction of the wheels with the road, the rear of the car will squat slightly.

When you approach an intersection or stop for any other reason on an incline, you need to immediately tighten the handbrake cable.

After practicing a few times, you will already know when this moment comes. That is, the car is released from the brake when the gas pedal is partially pressed and the clutch pedal is partially released. After driving a few meters in half-clutch, you can completely release the leftmost pedal.

Separately, a few words need to be said about the difficulties when removing the wheels from the hand brake. This is due to the load on the teeth of the drive lever. It happens that it’s time to get moving, but the button doesn’t want to be pressed with your thumb. In such cases, you just need to pull the handle up a little. This will ease the pressure on the mechanism, thereby allowing you to easily remove the handbrake and drive with half-clutch.

How to adjust the throttle cable of a Lada Priora?

1. The adjustment is carried out using a clamping bracket, which we previously removed. This bracket is a tensioner for the casing in which the cable moves.
2. Remove the bracket and tighten the throttle cable so that it sags about 1-2 mm near the throttle drive.

1. Now you need to install the fixing bracket into place in the casing. Make sure that the cable is tensioned optimally and that the gas pedal is not open at zero position. A cable that is too tight will cause constant high voltage. Squeeze the gas pedal several times and check how everything works.
2. Start the engine and make sure the throttle cable is adjusted correctly and the idle speed is normal.

Ignition and injection

During normal operation, the spark plug receives an electrical signal from the distributor or electronic injection system and sends a current pulse to the electrodes in a fraction of a second. Thus, the vapors in the combustion chamber are ignited. However, there are many reasons why a spark plug may stop sparking properly.

There are many methods for detecting and eliminating problems with spark plugs, but it is better to carry out diagnostics from specialists. A novice mechanic can do the following:

• Check the wires going to the spark plugs. Sometimes rough running of the engine is caused by damaged, worn or misconnected spark plug wires.
• Replace the suspect spark plug. Throughout its entire service life, it must retain its original appearance. If the spark plug is damaged, covered with oil or carbon deposits, you should contact a professional to further diagnose the causes of this condition.

Another factor why the spark plug does not generate a spark may be a malfunction of the ignition coil. This important component increases the vehicle voltage to 30,000 volts, which is the main condition for the formation of a spark. Coil defects cause misfires, which manifest themselves as jerking of the car.

Another common problem in the ignition system is contamination of the injector nozzles. This is not a very serious defect, but it also needs to be eliminated. It is advisable to clean the injectors on a regular basis to avoid costly replacements.

Expert answer

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About the expert:

Frets Expert

An expert on Lada cars with many years of experience. I own a Lada Granta car, I collect cramps based on the Priora. Sometimes I stay overnight in the garage. My wife is more jealous of cars than of women.

I can assume that due to power surges, the engine control system “glitched” and went into emergency mode. It’s a pity that we didn’t look at the error code, but most likely the error was: “Low signal level of the gas pedal sensor.”

In this case, you did everything right. We found a box in which it does not rain and removed the battery.

If you have a similar situation when the engine does not respond to the gas pedal and an error appears on the instrument panel screen, then try the following:

1. turn on the ignition and sharply press the gas pedal all the way several times.
   Press the gas pedal all the way down
2. Start the car, if it idles steadily, then again sharply press the gas pedal all the way.
3. Next to the pedal there is a so-called “frog” - this is the contact block with the wires. Move it, take it off and put it on again (just before doing this, remove the terminal from the battery).
4. The brake pedal frog could also be stuck. This is easy to check; if this happens, the rear brake lights should be on. The brake pedal may also squeak when driving. This is what the brake pedal frog looks like

Detailed video about removing the frog pedal

If all else fails, then you need to contact the dealer or an experienced diagnostician. Most likely, your ECU (electronic control unit of the car) has been flooded with water, or a short hole has appeared in the area from the pedal assembly to the rear dimensions. Or the electronic gas pedal could even break down.

One of the symptoms of a faulty frog (pedal limit switch) is failures during acceleration, but failures can also be caused by a clogged fuel filter.

Very hard pedal

The pedal is tight, the stroke is short when pressed... When braking, the car loses directional stability, trying to go to the side. Most often this happens when the caliper cylinders jam in one of the system circuits. If the car does not skid anywhere, and the trouble is expressed only in a sharply increased force when braking, the vacuum brake booster or the vacuum supply hose may be to blame.

Sometimes increased pedal effort is caused by the use of low-quality brake pads, as well as excessive contamination and oiling of both the pads themselves and the surfaces of the discs or drums. But this happens quite rarely.

It is also possible that the brake pads may completely wear out or break. It happens that an ice or salt crust forms on the surface of the disks. It is also possible that the brake pad linings are of poor quality, as well as severe corrosion of the brake disc (often more on the inside).

Unstable engine operation

If the engine runs unstably and stalls when idling, then there are reasons for this. It is quite possible that we are talking about insufficient pressure in the ramp. We also talk about the difficulties in the functioning of the electronic gas pedal.

In the first case, it is worth checking the pressure regulator. Just keep in mind that in new Lada Granta models this regulator may be located in conjunction with the fuel pump. As for the second situation, the check should concern the electronic part of the car, including the power unit adjustment system.

Air supply problems

The problem may also be that there is an air leak in the system. It may be located on the crankcase ventilation hose that connects the inlet pipe to the brake booster. You should carry out additional tightening of the fastening clamps. And, if the need arises, the hoses must be replaced with new ones.

If the problem concerns violation of valve clearances, then the solution requires contacting a service station.

Or it could be different. If the air filter is clogged, it will be more difficult for air to get through and an overly rich mixture will flow into the injectors. In this case, diagnostics and replacement of the air filter is necessary.

Spark plug

The problem could be the spark plugs.

And, of course, the reason may relate to a malfunction of the ignition system. We are talking about the source of the problem in the form of spark plugs or individual coils. If you have localized the source of the breakdown, then the faulty part must be replaced. On 16-valve engines, AU17D spark plugs are installed from the factory.

More details in the materials:

An indirect factor that may indicate problems with the spark plugs is increased fuel consumption. However, increased consumption may also appear for a number of other reasons; for more details, see the material: reducing the fuel consumption of a Lada Granta car.

Adjustment

The adjustment process may vary on different car models, since different manufacturers use mechanisms of different designs. But the same principle can be applied for configuration. As for a specific model, it is better to find information on it in advance.

To begin the adjustment, the first step is to remove the pedal from the holding bracket. Next, loosen the screws securing the cover. One screw holds the cover in a certain position - it must be completely unscrewed. The cover is turned to the side clockwise until the end, then the screws are tightened again.

This adjustment will reduce pedal response time. Some car owners note that after such adjustments, the response speed can even be compared with a mechanical pedal. Adjustment allows you to improve engine performance and improve the start of movement from a standstill.

In cases where a pedal with low sensitivity is needed, it is necessary to rotate the cover in the opposite direction - counterclockwise. The machine begins to respond to presses not so quickly.

Sometimes you can come across harmful adjustment tips - drivers advise placing shims under the lever. This is the wrong approach. Sometimes the pads get caught under the contact pads in the potentiometer, and the machine may lose control as a result.

10.14. Throttle cable

Checking full throttle opening

Examination

Installation

Adjustment

E-gas VAZ 2114 problems

Often the main disadvantages of electronic gas are these aspects:

• Delay in the car's response to pressing the accelerator pedal.
• Problems with floating speed, gas sticking and self-actuating.
• Impossibility of quick car tuning.

The delay is formed due to the fact that the signal from the pedal is first transmitted to the ECU and only after processing, the electric drive on the damper begins to smoothly change its position. In newer cars, this delay has been reduced thanks to better software and faster hardware. The e-gas equipment of the VAZ 2114 can also be reflashed, increasing the power and pedal response speed, but lowering the environmental standard to EURO-2.

In early versions, motorists often encountered incorrect operation of the e-gas, the speed fluctuated, there might be no reaction to the gas at all, or there could be sudden jumps in engine speed. All this was the result of faulty wiring made by AvtoVAZ; if such faults occur, it is better to replace it with a braid from PES SKK.

On injection machines

This problem occurs both on domestically produced injection cars (Lada Priora, Granta, Kalina, etc.) and on foreign cars. In most cases, this is explained by a phenomenon known as engine tripping. The situation is typical when only three out of four cylinders work normally. In this case, the engine simply does not have time to quickly react to a sharp press of the accelerator, and power failures occur, which sometimes turn into a series of jerks. This problem can occur both when accelerating and at idle. Here are the reasons why problems occur:

• The oxygen sensor has failed. Solution: check and replace.
• The valve timing in the engine is disrupted. Solution: set the phases as indicated in the operating instructions for the machine.
• The heat rating on the spark plugs does not correspond to that specified in the instructions. Solution: check the heat rating, then purchase and install new spark plugs.
• One or more injectors are clogged. Solution: the injectors are removed, installed on a special stand, where they are washed with a solvent under pressure.

Fines for crossing the stop line and speeding will no longer bother you!

What is an electronic gas pedal

E-gas, unlike a mechanical pedal, is something akin to a module that includes many electronic components. The mechanism is almost perfect, with an established information transmission system. It is not directly connected to the engine - the control unit does all the work. Electronic pedal technology is simplified as much as possible, therefore it is reliable and better integrated with other latest car systems.

Electronic gas is a more effective technology that allows you to more accurately calibrate the fuel supply on modern injectors. It is often called a button, the change in angle of which is transformed into an electrical impulse by means of a microchip. The signal is sent to the ECM. The intensity of fuel flow varies depending on the specific position of the pedal.

Design and principle of operation

To understand how the electronic gas pedal works, you need to know the general principle of the accelerator. The fact is that their functions are extremely similar, but the simplest mechanism is a mechanical drive.

The accelerator pedal, or as it is commonly called, “gas”, is a means of controlling the position of the throttle valve.

The throttle valve, in turn, is responsible for the amount of air supplied to the engine intake manifold. The more oxygen enters the combustion chamber, the higher the crankshaft speed. The pedal is a lever that acts on the damper drive. The drive can be cable or lever. All this, one way or another, makes it easier to press the gas pedal.

The operating principle of the electronic pedal is a little complicated, but it makes it much easier to control engine speed. This pedal is used only on fuel-injected cars, as it is entirely based on the operation of electronic devices. The accelerator includes: a pedal module, a signal conversion module and a throttle position control unit.

When you press the pedal, the module transmits information about the angle of deflection of the lever to the signal conversion module. The transistor system transmits an amplified signal to the throttle control unit. After matching the received signal with the electronic control unit, the throttle valve module determines its opening angle. This provides an electronic way to open the throttle valve.

What actions to take if a clutch malfunction occurs?

how to adjust the clutch on a Priora if there are not enough threadsImportant for the motorist to know

It is extremely important to listen to your vehicle. Timely detection of a breakdown and its elimination (the sooner the better) will help to avoid more serious consequences. Fixing a clutch malfunction means replacing the entire system or its individual element

Another disadvantage: only experienced and fanatical car owners will be able to cope with this task on their own. Most drivers who do not have their own garage and certain skills are unable to replace the unit and have to go to a service station

Fixing a clutch malfunction means replacing the entire system or its individual element. Another disadvantage: only experienced and fanatical car owners will be able to cope with this task on their own. Most drivers who do not have their own garage and certain skills are unable to replace the unit and have to go to a service station.

Another disadvantage of a unit malfunction is the cost of replacing it or replacing individual elements. If you have a foreign car, be prepared for huge costs.

Have you discovered a clutch malfunction on the road, what to do in such a situation? You need to immediately go to a car service center, because you won’t be able to drive such a car for a long time. But what to do if the service station is far away and there is no one to tow it? A trick like double-depressing the clutch pedal will help you.

When upshifting, you need to depress the pedal, shift to neutral and release the pedal. Then we depress the pedal again, switch to a higher gear and release it again. When downshifting, you need to depress the clutch pedal, go to neutral, release it, add gas, depress it again, downshift and release the pedal again.

If you still decide to repair the clutch system yourself, here are brief instructions for locating the fault: the most important thing is to correctly and very carefully disassemble the unit basket, inspecting all the discs, pay attention to worn parts, determine the condition of the springs and the number of oils The important part is inspecting the release bearing. Most often, many malfunctions are associated with it.

Most often, many malfunctions are associated with it.

Most often, many malfunctions are associated with it.

The important part is inspecting the release bearing. Most often, many malfunctions are associated with it. But it’s best, if a malfunction is detected, to sign up for diagnostics and service by experienced technicians at a car service center in Moscow

Yes, the price will be high, but the quality of the work matches this!

But it is best, if a malfunction is detected, to sign up for diagnostics and service by experienced technicians at a car service center in Moscow. Yes, the price will be high, but the quality of the work matches this!

You can make an appointment for clutch repair or replacement in Moscow by calling the phone numbers below or by leaving a request on our website. Within a short time, the manager will contact you and answer all your questions.

If the article was useful to you, tell your friends about it!

Examples of throttle valve adaptation on VAG and Lancer IX vehicles

In this video, they will tell you and show you how to adapt the damper for a VAG car.

Adaptation of remote sensing for Volkswagen Golf 4:

• We warm up the engine to t=80 0 C and turn off the car. Then we connect the USB-KKL cable to the diagnostic connector and, after turning on the ignition, launch the diagnostic program (VAG-COM 3.11).
• We enter section 01-engine.
• We poll the fault memory (02).
• We erase detected faults (05).
• After returning to the previous menu, enter the “adaptation-10” section.
• On channel 00, press the “read” button.
• Save the result and return to factory settings.
• Enter the basic settings (04) and go to the measurement mode.
• If the group value is 001, press “start”.
• We wait 2-3 minutes, then close the program and disconnect the cable. Adaptation is complete.

Adaptation of remote sensing of Nissan cars with an electronic gas pedal:

• Fully release the accelerator pedal.
• Turn on the ignition for at least 2 seconds.
• Turn off the ignition and wait at least 10 seconds.
• Turn on the ignition for at least 2 seconds.
• Turn off the ignition. The accelerator pedal adaptation procedure is completed.
• We are adapting the throttle valve. The accelerator pedal is released.
• Turn on the ignition and turn it off immediately. We wait at least 10 seconds. During this period of time, the damper moves.
• We teach air supply at idle speed (XX).
• Warm up the engine and gearbox to operating temperature.
• We turn off all electrical equipment of the car.
• We start the engine and bring it to operating temperature.
• Turn off the ignition and wait at least 10 seconds.
• Fully release the accelerator pedal.
• Turn on the ignition and wait at least 3 seconds.
• Within 5 seconds, press the accelerator pedal five times, then wait 7 seconds.
• Pressing the accelerator pedal, hold it until the CHECK stops flashing and lights up constantly (about 20 seconds are required).
• After the CHECK light comes on continuously, you must release the pedal within 3 seconds.
• We start the engine to run at XX.
• Press the pedal several times to check the stability of the XX.

Adaptation of remote sensing on VW Passat B5:

We recommend that you watch this video, it will show you how to adapt the damper for a Passat car.

• Warm up the engine to operating temperature and turn off the car.
• We turn on the ignition, but do not start the engine.
• We connect the cable to the diagnostic connector and launch the program.
• We enter section 01-engine.
• We enter the basic settings (04).
• In the damper adaptation we select 060 for cars with electronic damper control, and value 098 for cars with cable-controlled damper.
• Let's start the adaptation.
• We are waiting for the “ADP RUN” entry to appear on the screen and the subsequent “ADP OK” entry.
• We return to the basic settings.
• Turn off the ignition. Adaptation is complete.

Mitsubishi Lancer IX throttle adaptation:

• Warm up the car engine.
• We connect the ScanDoc scanner to the diagnostic connector. IAC values ​​= 0.
• We artificially restore the thermal gap in the damper (for example, we use a mixture of grease and waste oil).
• We start the engine and wait for the steady idling speed to be established.
• In the scanner, we launch the “Sas mode” mode and adjust the position of the IAC during adaptation.
• If the engine stalls when turning on the “Sas mode” mode, then unscrew the IAC screw to increase the engine speed to XX;
• We set the speed within 750-800 rpm.
• During adaptation, the IAC steps are set to 4-7;
• We forcibly complete the adaptation process and turn off the engine.
• We start the engine and check the IAC. If the adaptation was successful, then the IAC steps will be 27-28.

Adaptation of remote sensing on Audi A4:

• We warm up the engine to t=80 0 C and turn off the car. Then we connect the cable to the diagnostic connector and after turning on the ignition, launch the diagnostic program (VAG-COM).
• We enter section 01-engine.
• We enter the “Adaptation-10” section.
• On channel 00, press the “read” button.
• Save the result and return to factory settings.
• Enter the basic settings (04) and go to the measurement mode.
• Enter channel value 098, start adaptation.
• We are waiting for a message about the completion of the adaptation process.
• We return to the original section. Close the program and disconnect the cable.

You can find out how to install car audio with your own hands here. We recommend it to everyone!

From this article, you will find out how much anti-corrosion treatment of the underbody of a car costs.

How Electronic Throttle Control Works

Compared to the cable throttle, two parts were added to the E-gas:

1. damper rotation motor;
2. second (control) throttle position sensor (TPS No. 2).

TPS No. 2 operates in “antiphase” with the first one - its signal increases or decreases by the same amount as the signal from the main TPS No. 1.

Electronic throttle valves may differ in the percentage of opening in the de-energized state and the type of TPS.

• Fully closed in a de-energized state - one spring for full closure.
• Slightly opened by 5-7% - two springs, the balance point is in the slightly opened zone. This allows the engine to operate at low speeds in the event of a complete failure of the throttle electronics. Such dampers are more modern than completely closed ones, with which, if they break, the engine will not work at all.
• With contact TPS - inside slider variable resistors.
• With contactless TPS - there are no rubbing moving contacts inside, the output signal is generated electronically.

Working principle of E-gas:

The driver presses the accelerator pedal. The degree of pressure is converted through sensors into an electrical signal and transmitted via wires to the computer. The ECU controls the closing/opening of the damper using PWM power through a motor

Both the duty cycle of the PWM and the polarity change. Based on signals from the TPS, the position of the damper is analyzed and the control signal is changed if necessary. Errors in the operation of the throttle valve are monitored.

Advantages and disadvantages of electronic gas for Grants

The system is designed in such a way that there is no need for mechanical parts connecting the accelerator itself and the throttle assembly. This approach provides a number of advantages, such as:

• reduced fuel consumption and reduced exhaust toxicity;
• instant response from the control unit to manipulations with the accelerator;
• soft pedal stroke;
• smooth distribution of engine speed.

There are also some disadvantages that car enthusiasts face. These include:

• a smooth increase in engine speed when you sharply press the gas pedal;
• low maintainability of the unit in case of failure of its components (replacement of the assembled unit);
• some inconveniences when modifying the engine.

Operating principle of the electronic gas pedal

In general terms, the principle of operation of such a pedal can be described as follows:

1. The driver presses the electronic gas pedal, changing its position.
2. Special sensors analyze the angle of deflection of the pedal from its original position.
3. The received information is sent from the sensors to the electronic control unit.
4. Based on this information, the ECU generates one or another command to the throttle valve.
5. The damper opens to the required angle.

Article on the topic: Knock sensor - assessing malfunctions!

As can be seen from the information provided, the operating principle of an electronic pedal is much more complicated than a mechanical one. This is not just a lever that tightens and loosens a cable, but a full-fledged electronic module connected to sensors and other components.

Other features of the functioning of gas pedals of this type include the following points:

• A rheostat is used as the basis for electronic pedals from a variety of manufacturers.
• To transmit a signal from the pedal to the ECU, special tracks with a group of conductive contacts are used.
• To ensure high accuracy, the transmitting contacts are duplicated in many cases.

Principle of operation

The entire electronic throttle control system consists of three main elements: the electronic pedal module, the control unit and the throttle control module.

• The electronic gas pedal is a plastic pedal-lever with two position sensors. The sensors are potentiometers whose movable contact is rigidly connected to the rotary axis of the pedal.
• The electronic control unit (ECU) constantly monitors the position of the pedal using sensors and, based on these and additional signals, sends commands to control the throttle gearbox and fuel injectors.
• The throttle control module receives signals from the ECU and changes the position of the throttle valve. Its position is also monitored by two sensors, the signal from which is sent to the ECU for feedback.

How to check the electronic pedal on Vesta with a multimeter

To diagnose the condition of the accelerator pedal, it is not necessary to completely disassemble it, but you will still have to remove it. We already know that the resistor is the main working element in the E-gas pedal, so we will check it using a multimeter in resistance measurement mode.

Checking the resistance of the E-gas resistor tracks

We have already figured out how to remove the electron gas above; now all that remains is to take two multimeter probes and install them on pins 2 and 4, as shown in the diagram. When pressing the pedal, we should observe a smooth decrease in resistance. In the same way, we check contacts 4 and 3. There are two conductive paths installed inside the pedal. Let's check the second by measuring the resistance on pins 1 and 6, then on pins 6 and 5.

Articles and prices of the E-GAS pedal Lada Vesta

If the resistance changes abruptly or the conductive track does not ring at all, this cannot be treated and the pedal must be replaced. The price of a new VAZ pedal with catalog number 8450030628 is about $22 for 2022. There are also non-original pedal units on sale with factory part numbers Ricor Electronics 2170-1108500-01 at approximately the same price. They will ask for the same amount for the E-GAS BOSCH 2170-1108500 pedal.

Lada Vesta: adjusting and checking the e-gas pedal ⋆ I Love My Lada

All cars of recent years produced by AvtoVAZ are equipped with an electronic gas pedal. Lada Vesta is no exception. In addition to the obvious positive aspects of using the E-GAS system, there are also a number of problems. We’ll figure out how to adjust the electronic pedal, how to replace or fix breakdowns, which one is better to install instead of the stock one, right now.

Electronic gas pedal Lada Vesta. Purpose, pros and cons

Regardless of the type of engine power system, injector or carburetor, the throttle valve must be turned somehow. If in carburetor engines the mechanical throttle valve drive worked quite well, then in injection engines stuffed with electronics this trick does not work.

Schematic diagram of the operation of the electronic gas pedal

You need to understand that the electronic gas pedal is primarily designed for more accurate dosing of the working mixture into the combustion chamber and scrupulous synchronization with the ignition system. All this together not only results in more accurate dosing of the working mixture, but also significantly reduces the level of harmful emissions . It was with the introduction of Euro4 and Euro5 standards that the electronic gas pedal began to dominate even in the segment of budget cars, which includes Togliatti small cars.

Problems with dynamics and dips when pressing the E-GAS pedal are artificial. In fact, the throttle is controlled by the ECM and its main goal is to comply with environmental standards.

What do harmful emissions have to do with it? Everything is very simple. Before the electronic gas pedal was introduced and the throttle valve was actuated mechanically, the electronic engine control system (ECM) could not influence the filling of the combustion chamber and, as a result, regulate the level of harmful emissions . Of course, for us, there isn’t too much good in the e-gas pedal.

The fact is that with the help of the ECM, not only the CO level is regulated, but also the filling of the combustion chamber. The electronics completely control the amount of fuel and air and will not allow unnecessary waste of gasoline, and will also monitor the quality of its combustion in the cylinder using catalyst oxygen sensors. No matter how much we press the pedal, the ECM will act only at its own discretion .

That is, we can no longer fully control the throttle - an intermediary has appeared between the pedal and the throttle, an electronic gas pedal. The engine is artificially clamped . From this we conclude:

The electronic gas pedal is designed for full control by the electronic engine management system of filling the combustion chamber with air, which ensures the optimal amount of harmful emissions in accordance with Euro4, Euro5 and Euro6 standards.

How the E-GAS pedal works on the Lada Vesta, checking, adjustment

In principle, the algorithm of operation of the electronic pedal is, we hope, clear. The pedal itself is a regular variable resistor. When you press the pedal, the slider moves along the contact track, the resistance changes, and the ECM, in accordance with the resistor data, changes the position of the throttle valve and calculates the optimal amount of fuel in real time. However, not everything is so smooth. Vesta has problems with the pedal.

Contact tracks of the gas pedal position sensor Lada Vesta

Malfunctions of the electronic gas pedal Lada Vesta

We have already said that the characteristics of the E-GAS pedal resistor do not in any way affect the dynamics, power and fuel consumption. Nevertheless, inexperienced drivers may sin on the pedal if the following symptoms appear:

• high fuel consumption;
• drop in engine responsiveness when pressing the accelerator;
• failures in dynamics;
• unstable speed;
• RPM freezing when releasing gas;
• large free pedal travel.

Most of these problems are artificial in nature and E-GAZ has nothing to do with it. However, some are attempting to adjust the electronic accelerator.

Bosch E-GAS pedal

How to remove and why to adjust the electronic gas pedal

Accelerator pedal calibration only affects its physical operating range. More precisely, on the range of operation of the resistor. This needs to be clearly understood. No increase in power, no increase in dynamics or improved fuel economy can be achieved in this way. Roughly speaking, we will simply adjust the sensitivity of the pedal.

First, let's figure out how to remove the electronic accelerator on Vesta. There is nothing complicated about this; the mounting diagram is shown in the photo below.

Scheme of fastening the accelerator pedal assembly on Lada Vesta

To begin with, we disconnect terminal block 1, after which we unscrew nuts 2-4 with a socket or a 10mm wrench. The pedal is in our hands.

Depending on the type of E-GAS pedal, there are several ways to adjust the resistor position. On old pedals with catalog number 11183-1108500, as a rule, these were Czech-assembled Bosch , it was possible to adjust the sensitivity of the pedal without disassembling. It was enough to unscrew the four screws and turn the cover:

• if you rotate the cover counterclockwise, the sensitivity of the pedal decreases, which means the operating range increases;
• By rotating the cap clockwise, we increase sensitivity, which makes the pedal sharper and requires more precise operation of the accelerator.

Here is a diagram for adjusting the old-style E-gas pedal.

On newer Lada Vestas, a stock e-gas pedal with catalog number 11183-1108500-01 or 2170-1108500-01 is installed. They are absolutely identical both in parameters and attachment points. The sensitivity of the resistor is adjusted by moving the slider. The photo below shows which way to move the slider with the screw loosened to increase or decrease the sensitivity of the pedal.

Adjusting the electronic gas pedal Lada Vesta

Adjusting the play and hardness of the gas pedal on Lada Vesta

In addition to complaints about the pedal regarding the control of the damper, some have questions about the rigidity and its free movement, play. The improvements here are purely mechanical. To make the pedal a little softer, just remove one of the return springs. How to do this is shown in the photo below:

To remove free play, which should be no more than 4-7 mm, you can place a rubber gasket under the stops shown in the photo. The thickness of the gasket must be selected depending on the size of the gap, and it can be secured using double-sided tape or glue. Plastic will endure anything.

Lada Granta electronic gas pedal malfunction

Features of the Lada Granta throttle assembly

The throttle valve is turned by an electric motor through a gearbox. Both are built into the throttle body. When starting and warming up the engine, as well as during idling, the flow of air into the cylinders is regulated by opening the throttle valve. The throttle position is controlled by two sensors built into the throttle body.

The throttle valve opening angle is set by the electronic control unit (ECU) depending on the estimated amount of air that should enter the engine cylinders. This takes into account the operating mode of the engine (starting, warming up, idling, and so on), the temperature of the ambient air and the engine, and the position of the gas pedal.

Control commands are sent to the throttle assembly to the electric motor. At the same time, the ECU monitors the opening angle of the damper and, if necessary, sends appropriate commands to adjust its position. As a result of the fact that the ECU simultaneously regulates the amount of injected fuel and incoming air, the optimal composition of the combustible mixture is maintained in any engine operating mode.

The electric throttle body is sensitive to deposits that may accumulate on its inner surface. The resulting layer of deposits can interfere with the smooth movement of the throttle valve, jamming it (especially at low opening angles). As a result, the engine will operate unstably and even stall at idle, start poorly, and failures may also appear during transient conditions. To avoid this, as a preventive measure, deposits should be removed with special detergent compounds during regular vehicle maintenance. A large layer of deposits can completely block the movement of the damper. If flushing fails to restore the throttle assembly to operability, it must be replaced.

A malfunction or incorrect operation of the throttle assembly may be caused by a broken contact in its electrical circuit (oxidized terminals in the wiring harness connection block). In this case, it will be possible to restore operation by treating the terminals with a special compound for cleaning and protecting electrical contacts. There are other possible causes of the malfunction:

— no supply voltage is supplied to the throttle assembly;

— signals are not received from both throttle position sensors;

— The computer cannot recognize signals from the throttle position sensors.

In these cases, the engine control system goes into emergency mode. At the same time, the car retains the ability to independently move a short distance at a slow speed, which, in extreme cases, will allow it to be moved to a safe place

(move to the side of the road, leave the intersection, etc.).

The fact that the throttle assembly is operating in emergency mode may be indicated by a burning indicator lamp for a malfunction of the engine management system and an increased speed of the crankshaft at idle (about 1500 rpm, despite the fact that the engine is warmed up to operating temperature), the engine at this will not respond to pressing the gas pedal.

Each of the throttle position sensors is a potentiometer. During operation, gradual wear of conductive paths and moving contacts occurs. Over time, wear can reach such an extent that the sensor cannot function correctly. The presence of two sensors increases the reliability of the entire unit.

If only one sensor fails, the warning lamp will light up, but the engine management system will switch to backup mode. In this case, the engine will respond adequately to pressing the gas pedal, but with worse performance parameters

The reserve mode allows you to drive your car to the repair site under your own power.

Electronic gas pedal Lada Granta

On modern cars, instead of the usual cable drive for throttle control, a so-called “electronic gas pedal” is installed. In such cars, the throttle position is controlled electronically. When you press or release the gas pedal, information about this goes to the control unit (ECU) and only after processing and adjustment is a command given to the throttle module. The pros and cons of such a system, as well as signs of malfunctions, will be discussed in this article.

Symptoms of a problem

Among the main signs of problems are:

• Absence of any reaction to the accelerator after starting the vehicle’s internal combustion engine;
• Dips, loss of throttle response while driving;
• Floating idle speed;
• Sharp jumps in speed when you gently press the accelerator;
• Idle speed too high.

The device contains movable electrical contacts, as well as conductive tracks - these elements are subject to wear during operation. In the operation of the engine, you can observe dips when picking up speed, unstable idling.

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If there is a malfunction in the unit, the driver can see this by a warning light on the dashboard. In such a situation, the ECU will switch the engine to standby mode.

In this mode, you can observe a slow increase in speed, even if you press the accelerator sharply. In addition, the vehicle's fuel consumption may increase significantly.

If two sensors in a unit fail at once, the ECU will switch the operation of the internal combustion engine to emergency mode - the driver will not be able to influence the operation of the engine, the speed under any conditions will be slightly higher than the idle speed.

Description of the problem

In general, there was a terrible downpour, puddles on the roads, and general floods in the yards.

Heavy rain could affect the operation of the car's electronic systems

But we had to go, my wife and daughter were in the shopping center, and the queue for the minibus, according to them, was huge. I am inclined to believe that the minibuses simply stalled (we have old, decrepit Gazelles in our city).

We have one place that is constantly flooded. I look, and there are new Kia Sid floating on the radiator grille in the water, well, I’m taller, I thought that nothing would happen. Here, as luck would have it, the traffic light is still red, and the intersection is straight, only a pedestrian crossing, on which there is no one at all, since it is knee-deep in water. Most people pass it, even on red lights, quietly. And I’ve only been driving for a month, I’m not used to breaking rules yet. Has stopped.

Belt whistled due to water ingress

My Granta is standing there, waiting for the green light, and then the alternator belt started whistling, as if it was slipping. I see the voltage on the on-board computer jumps, from 13 Volts to 11.8, and there is a whistle under the hood. The light turned green and I was off. I started, drove out of the puddle, accelerated a little and the whistle disappeared. The voltage on the on-board computer screen leveled out to 13.6.

Among the current consumers, my headlights were on, the rear window was heated, the tape recorder was working quietly, and the heater was turned on at second speed to blow the windshield.

I got to the shopping center, stopped, and waited for my wife and daughter. The engine begins to vibrate and bleed a little. I went home already on the detour, there are fewer puddles there. I dropped everyone off and decided to go to the garage.

I started the engine, the revolutions jumped to 6000, I was already scared. Then they dropped to 1000, the engine sneezed and died. The check engine light on the dashboard came on. It started again, it idles, but pressing the gas pedal does not respond. I try to start, it idles and doesn’t respond to the pedal at all when driving. So I drove to the garage in second gear, well the 21116 engine is torquey and drives like a tractor.

I repeated the experiment in the garage. I started it up, tried to press the gas pedal, nothing happened, the revs were like a glove, the engine icon was still on.

How I solved the problem of gas pedal failure

1. I took a smoke break and decided to remove the terminal from the battery.
2. I reset it and waited five minutes. He swore that he forgot the diagnostic adapter at home.
3. Reconnected the terminal and started it.
4. “Jackie Chan” stopped burning, the engine reacts to the gas pedal with a vigorous increase in speed. The engine really didn’t start at first, it started only the second time.

I left the garage, circled along the pit line, and came back. There were no signs of damage. Now I'm afraid to drive in the rain.

What could it be? Now I’m subconsciously afraid that if I start the engine, my Lada Granta won’t want to go anywhere in rainy weather. How likely is this situation to happen again?

Features of the Lada Granta throttle assembly

The throttle valve is turned by an electric motor through a gearbox. Both are built into the throttle body. When starting and warming up the engine, as well as during idling, the flow of air into the cylinders is regulated by opening the throttle valve. The throttle position is controlled by two sensors built into the throttle body.

The throttle valve opening angle is set by the electronic control unit (ECU) depending on the estimated amount of air that should enter the engine cylinders. This takes into account the operating mode of the engine (starting, warming up, idling, and so on), the temperature of the ambient air and the engine, and the position of the gas pedal.

Control commands are sent to the throttle assembly to the electric motor. At the same time, the ECU monitors the opening angle of the damper and, if necessary, sends appropriate commands to adjust its position. As a result of the fact that the ECU simultaneously regulates the amount of injected fuel and incoming air, the optimal composition of the combustible mixture is maintained in any engine operating mode.

The electric throttle body is sensitive to deposits that may accumulate on its inner surface. The resulting layer of deposits can interfere with the smooth movement of the throttle valve, jamming it (especially at low opening angles). As a result, the engine will operate unstably and even stall at idle, start poorly, and failures may also appear during transient conditions. To avoid this, as a preventive measure, deposits should be removed with special detergent compounds during regular vehicle maintenance. A large layer of deposits can completely block the movement of the damper. If flushing fails to restore the throttle assembly to operability, it must be replaced.

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Comments 23

Pedal adaptation helps me personally! When I came for diagnostics, about six months after purchasing the car, the diagnostics showed that the gas pedal was not adapted! I performed the above operation on rpm from 1000 to 4000 and it adapted! These failures, if you suddenly give the gas to the floor even for a second, are annoying! After chipping there was not a single failure at all, you press sharply and it immediately slips without delay! For some reason, about a month later, a small failure appeared again!

This is not an adaptation! What you described is enabling the misfire diagnostic function.

Throttle valve adaptation is done as follows:

1. Ignition on 2. Wait 30-40 seconds. 3. Start the internal combustion engine. 4. Turn off the ignition 5. Wait for the main relay to turn off. 6. Everything

But only then we go to the track and adapt the passes.

But before this, you need to warm up the internal combustion engine until the fan turns on three times.

initialization, and then the above written by the author! Helps! ) BC State1 for help or diagnostics

The staff transfers to 95th without training, many ride on 92nd

You read more carefully (— adaptation of the throttle position zero. For this, the first turn on of the ignition switch after replacing the controller) after replacing the controller. Removing the terminal from the battery or resetting the settings by the staff does not affect anything. Again, we carefully read (adaptation of the misfire diagnostic function of the controller in order to avoid damage to the catalytic manifold and possible fire of the car) misfires have nothing to do with the pedal in general. In the first case, all this is done at the factory. This is only necessary when the brain changes or the throttle assembly.

or by “resetting” it with initialization using diagnostic equipment, my B.K can do initialization, so for whom how

If the staff resets it, won’t it work?

I think no! The state only resets the values ​​to zero! This is different!

I’ll try this during the day, otherwise I’ve already sinned on the filter, you press the pedal, from 2 to 3 there are dips, that is, no!

try! Let me know if it helped or not!

I need to try it, otherwise there are holes in my guts

everything is clear, I just changed the firmware, I did it! But when I drove around after buying the car for about six months and stopped by for diagnostics! It revealed that for some reason the pedal was not adjusted! And even after the firmware, the car was tearing out from under itself, and about two weeks ago small gaps appeared again! I tried from 1000 to 4000 as it was written to do everything, the pedal became more responsive! But it’s still not the same as right after the firmware!

Symptoms of a faulty electronic throttle

Like any other part of the car, the throttle control system can also be subject to damage and wear.

There are signs and symptoms to watch out for to protect your vehicle from further damage.

1. The car may have jerks and dips during acceleration, and it may jerk when accelerating. Possible misfires. If you notice any of these symptoms or rough shifting, there may be a problem with the electronic throttle.
2. Problems with the electronic throttle control can cause problems when shifting gears. This could be a sticky feeling or slow shifting between gears. There may be a problem with getting out of a certain gear, as if it is stuck.
3. Another sign of an ED malfunction is problems with displaying power characteristics. This means that the car will display incorrect data or data that is not possible in the current situation.
4. The engine may stall for no apparent reason. This could be a sign of a serious problem and could even cause engine damage, so this problem needs to be fixed as soon as possible.
5. An additional sign that may indicate you need to have your E-Gas checked is if you experience rapid and unintentional increases in speed while driving. This is a big safety concern because it can happen when you are behind another car or on a turn.
6. The Check Engine light may be on on the dashboard. This is a sign of some kind of malfunction detected by the ECU. You can find out the error and the cause of the malfunction using a diagnostic scanner or an ELM327 adapter with the Torque program.
7. The final symptom of a faulty electronic throttle control is a sharp increase in fuel consumption. If you realize that you cannot drive as many kilometers on the same amount of fuel as before, this is a clear sign that you need to have your car diagnosed.

does not gain momentum and does not go

Dear Ivan! I have a problem with traction and revs similar to yours. (and the engine is the same QG1.8DE only 2003. A month ago I drove it from Germany, mileage 120 thousand. Initially it pulled rather weakly - it did not accelerate more than 130 km/h, and it only adjusted by 1/2 of the gas pedal travel, further pressing only reduced the thrust). Now the traction has completely dropped, jerking began when trying to accelerate and even release the gas. Fuel consumption has increased abruptly from 9.4 to 15 liters per 100 km, it is clearly smoking, although it does not stink.) Chek Ingine gives error 0171 - lean mixture, increased impulse on the injectors and increased voltage on MAFe. I replaced the air filter, washed the injector and throttle valve, washed the MAF in isopropyl alcohol - no effect. By the way, the MAF and throttle valve were completely clean. I really need your advice on what to do. Changing the MAF, catalyst, lambda, getting into the engine - where to start? All this is very expensive, but I have no confidence in the benefits.

Causes of the phenomenon

Drop in speed and failure of the gas pedal

There are few reasons for the phenomenon of “failure” when pressing the gas pedal. It often appears after unsuccessful engine chip tuning and is accompanied by an increase in fuel consumption, but there are other problems directly with injection. So, let’s look at the main reasons for the “failure” effect:

• Injectors. The fuel distribution system directly affects engine performance.

Identifying and eliminating ECU errors

Condition of the candles. On the left the mixture is too rich, on the right it is too lean.

These are all the main reasons that can lead to gas pedal failure.

Dips during acceleration

Once the causes are considered, we can consider how to deal with the problem. So, let’s describe step by step what needs to be done when the gas pedal has dips during acceleration:

1. The first step is to check the spark plugs. The appearance of carbon deposits or spark plugs that are too clean indicate that the mixture is not adjusted correctly. It is worth adjusting the correct amount of fuel mixture.
2. Ignition wires can also cause the vehicle to malfunction.
3. A clogged throttle can lead to failures during acceleration.
4. The condition of the air filter affects the formation of the mixture, so it is worth changing it on time.

Air filter clogged

Dirty fuel filter

Dirty fuel filter

• ECU errors can also lead to accelerator failures.
• The last reason is clogged injectors. They need to carry out diagnostics, check functionality, and also clean and replace faulty elements.

Thus, the causes of failures during overclocking have been identified and can be eliminated.

Gas leaks at idle

At idle, there are fewer reasons for failures, but they will have to be eliminated, since the car simply will not start normally, or stall after starting the engine. So, let's look at the work plan step by step:

1. Checking the spark plugs. If the element fails, it is necessary to replace it.

Attention! It is recommended to change all four spark plugs to ensure smooth engine operation. Before installation, you should adjust the gap using a feeler gauge, which should be 1 mm for 92 gasoline

Checking and adjusting the spark plug gap using a feeler gauge

1. We change the fuel filter, it is located under the bottom of the tank, and also carry out diagnostics on the fuel pump. If malfunctions are identified, they should be eliminated.

Clogged filter in the gasoline pump

All these reasons can cause dips to appear at idle (more precisely, when switching from idle to driving mode).

How to get rid of problems accompanied by a drop in speed

If a failure occurs, it is easy to troubleshoot fuel supply problems. Here the fuel lines and air leaks are checked. Eliminates clogging and fuel pump problems. And if there are no malfunctions, check the carburetor. This unit guarantees a constant, uniform supply of fuel. Due to irregularities in the functioning of the device, failures appear.

What to check first:

• it is necessary to exclude air leaks that occur when the fastening to the exhaust manifold is loosened;
• inspect the filter mesh at the place where the pipe from the fuel pump is connected;
• unscrew, check the EPH valve and the o-ring; The functionality of the element is determined after connecting the wire to the terminal, and the other end to the “+” of the battery - a click should occur.

There may be other problems with the unit that cause dips when pressing the gas.

How to check and fix:

1. The amount of liquid in the float chamber. After starting the engine, let it run. Next, the upper component of the carburetor is dismantled, and the air filter housing is first removed. At the same moment, the amount of contained fuel is estimated, which should reach the middle of the inclined wall.
2. Blockages in dosing systems are common. To fix the problem, the upper component of the device is dismantled, the jets are removed and inspected for clogging. If they are clogged, wooden parts are used for cleaning. Emulsion tubes are also inspected.

What's interesting about the cable?

A cable drive is used, as a rule, in cars equipped with a carburetor, which is no wonder, the carburetor is the most mechanical component, here the injection of the fuel mixture is also mechanical. In addition, when carburetors were popular, the industry could not yet provide its products with a large number of sensors, sensors, and other smart electronics. Everything was simple: the pedal is pressed, the cable is pulled, the carburetor flap is opened slightly. The harder you press the pedal, the wider the throttle opens, more fuel mixture flows in - higher speed, higher power. And everything would be fine, the system works stably, but in cold weather it begins to show its worst side. Starting the engine in winter for many turned into torture, trying to catch the moment when the spark coincides with the required amount of mixture, playing with the choke, if you overdo it, the spark plugs will burn out. And this situation was almost universal.

Replacing the gas pedal on Grant

The replacement procedure is quite simple and does not require special technical means. In order to dismantle the unit you will need: - A key for 10.

Sequential steps to replace the gas pedal of a Lada Granta:

1. The first step is to remove the negative terminal from the battery. 2. Next, you need to move to the driver’s side of the car. 3. Above the gas pedal, find and disconnect the contact chip that is connected to the sensor connector. 4. After that, take a 10mm wrench and unscrew the three fastening nuts. When there is insufficient internal space, it is most convenient to use a socket wrench. 5. Remove the pedal from the special mounting pins. Reinstallation is carried out in a mirror sequence.

Adjusting the sensitivity of the gas pedal

"Note! Not only the pedal and its module take part in controlling the operation of the throttle valve; the throttle control unit plays an important role. Therefore, this product should also be given special attention in cases where the MPG is in a known good condition, but problems with engine speed remain.”

Lubricating the throttle cable on a Priora at home

To work you will need:

• Flat screwdriver;
• Pliers;
• A syringe and a few drops of motor oil or WD-40.

Actually the work itself...

1. First you need to turn off the engine and let it cool.

3. To remove the throttle cable, you need to remove it from the plastic bracket; to do this, pull the cable casing towards you and, pushing the rubber ring up, remove the cable.

4. Now you need to disconnect the cable from the throttle valve drive. To do this, remove the U-shaped metal bracket from the throttle actuator by prying off one edge using a flathead screwdriver.

5. We remove the cable from the hook, overcoming the force of the spring.

6. Now that nothing is in the way, you can begin to lubricate the throttle valve actuator; to do this, you need to slide the transparent cap and generously lubricate the cable with a few drops of engine oil or WD-40 penetrating fluid. In the case of oil, prepare a syringe.

Try to pour oil into the housing, then move the housing to lubricate the cable along its entire length. Repeat the procedure several times until the cable is completely lubricated.