Priora failures during acceleration: eliminating the causes of jerking

In general, there was a terrible downpour, puddles on the roads, and general floods in the yards.

Heavy rain could affect the operation of the car's electronic systems

But we had to go, my wife and daughter were in the shopping center, and the queue for the minibus, according to them, was huge. I am inclined to believe that the minibuses simply stalled (we have old, decrepit Gazelles in our city).

We have one place that is constantly flooded. I look, and there are new Kia Sid floating on the radiator grille in the water, well, I’m taller, I thought that nothing would happen. Here, as luck would have it, the traffic light is still red, and the intersection is straight, only a pedestrian crossing, on which there is no one at all, since it is knee-deep in water. Most people pass it, even on red lights, quietly. And I’ve only been driving for a month, I’m not used to breaking rules yet. Has stopped.

Belt whistled due to water ingress

My Granta is standing there, waiting for the green light, and then the alternator belt started whistling, as if it was slipping. I see the voltage on the on-board computer jumps, from 13 Volts to 11.8, and there is a whistle under the hood. The light turned green and I was off. I started, drove out of the puddle, accelerated a little and the whistle disappeared. The voltage on the on-board computer screen leveled out to 13.6.

Among the current consumers, my headlights were on, the rear window was heated, the tape recorder was working quietly, and the heater was turned on at second speed to blow the windshield.

I got to the shopping center, stopped, and waited for my wife and daughter. The engine begins to vibrate and bleed a little. I went home already on the detour, there are fewer puddles there. I dropped everyone off and decided to go to the garage.

I started the engine, the revolutions jumped to 6000, I was already scared. Then they dropped to 1000, the engine sneezed and died. The check engine light on the dashboard came on. It started again, it idles, but pressing the gas pedal does not respond. I try to start, it idles and doesn’t respond to the pedal at all when driving. So I drove to the garage in second gear, well the 21116 engine is torquey and drives like a tractor.

I repeated the experiment in the garage. I started it up, tried to press the gas pedal, nothing happened, the revs were like a glove, the engine icon was still on.

How I solved the problem of gas pedal failure

I took a smoke break and decided to remove the terminal from the battery.
I reset it and waited five minutes. He swore that he forgot the diagnostic adapter at home.
Reconnected the terminal and started it.
“Jackie Chan” stopped burning, the engine reacts to the gas pedal with a vigorous increase in speed. The engine really didn’t start at first, it started only the second time.

I left the garage, circled along the pit line, and came back. There were no signs of damage. Now I'm afraid to drive in the rain.

What could it be? Now I’m subconsciously afraid that if I start the engine, my Lada Granta won’t want to go anywhere in rainy weather. How likely is this situation to happen again?

Causes of failures when pressing the gas pedal

Let's look at the main reasons:

Spark plugs and high-voltage wires;
Clogged fuel injectors;
The throttle valve is dirty;
The ignition is set incorrectly;
Errors in the ECU;
The air filter is clogged;
Problems with the fuel pump.

Often, failures occur due to a breakdown of the power system. After pressing the gas pedal, the power system increases the volume of fuel supplied to the cylinders. Breakage causes a change in these proportions. Those. The motor just can't do its job.

In addition, it is possible that there may be a breakdown in the ignition system. It occurs much less frequently. It's either spark plugs or ignition wires. The spark plugs must be removed and checked. The presence of carbon deposits or too clean spark plugs indicate a rich or lean fuel mixture, respectively. This indicates that the ignition system is adjusted incorrectly.

Dips when pressing the gas pedal during acceleration

It is determined both using computer diagnostics and by the steps described below (some of the points below can be performed independently, but specialists in car services in Moscow will be able to determine the problem area more quickly and accurately):

The first thing you need to do is inspect the spark plugs. To do this you need to remove them. The presence of carbon deposits on the spark plugs, poor contact with the wires, or an excessively lean or rich mixture lead to spark plug malfunctions.
High voltage wires can also cause engine malfunction, as can ignition coils.
The throttle needs to be checked. If it is clogged, this causes the engine to respond untimely when pressing the gas pedal.
It is necessary to check the condition of the air, fuel and oil filters. They tend to get clogged, which worsens dynamics, increases fuel consumption and causes pedal failure. They need to be changed constantly, you can do it yourself, they are inexpensive and easy to install.
The presence of errors in the ECU leads to failures.
Clogged injectors. If necessary, replace or repair injectors.

The wires, as well as the rubber bands on them, should not be damaged and should not spark when the engine is running. If damage is found, this indicates that the engine is shaking and jerking begins. This may occur due to the age of the car, worn-out or low-quality spare parts, poor contact with the spark plugs, or due to the temperature of the engine.

The resistance of the coils and the temperature change together, as a result of which a gasoline car begins to jerk during acceleration. In diesel cars, jerking cannot be associated with the coils, since they are not present.

Dips when pressing the gas pedal at idle

Problems also occur at idle speed; of course, there will be fewer reasons. However, this is also a serious problem and cannot be ignored, because... The car will have difficulty starting and simply stall.

Troubleshooting is performed in the following order:

The first thing to check is the spark plugs. If the spark plugs are faulty, they should be replaced. We recommend replacing all spark plugs at the same time. Buy spark plugs specifically for your engine. If necessary, adjust the gap; it should be 1 mm for 92 gasoline.
The fuel filter and fuel pump diagnostics are checked. If a malfunction is identified, fix it.
The breakdown may be in the idle speed sensor.
Checking the injectors. If clogged, replacement or cleaning is necessary.
Diagnostics of the ECU for errors.
Checking the injector.

How to check E-gas

If you have doubts about the performance of the product itself, you should dismantle and check the unit using a multimeter.

Main symptoms of a malfunction:

“Chek” lighted up on the dashboard (error 0504 during diagnostics);
when you press the gas pedal, the responsiveness disappeared;
increased engine speed is diagnosed when changing gearbox speeds.

If we talk about the causes of malfunctions, the most common of them are:

failure of one or both MPG sensors;

malfunction of sensors as a result of oxidation of contact tracks, their contamination.

As mentioned earlier, in order to check E-gas grants, you need to use a multimeter. To carry out diagnostic measurements of electrical circuits, the module must be dismantled by first disconnecting it from the contact chip.

After that, you need to switch the operating position of the measuring device to ohmmeter mode. The point of the test is that it is necessary to alternately measure the condition of the contacts and conductive paths of the MPG sensors. For example: connect one probe of the device to contact No. 2, and the other to No. 4. While keeping both probes attached, slowly step on the gas pedal and observe the readings on the meter. A normal reaction is considered to be a smooth decrease in electrical resistance when pressing the accelerator. An abrupt, unstable decrease indicates a possible sensor malfunction. A similar sequence of actions is taken for the remaining contacts.

Signs of engine tripping

Regardless of the reasons, engine tripping is associated with the presence of various problems, which can be solved after finding out what caused the stoppage of one of the cylinders of the internal combustion engine.

The main signs of engine tripping include:

uneven operation at idle, as well as shaking of the engine,
darkening of one of the spark plugs,
change in exhaust sound,
poor acceleration dynamics of Priora
at any speed,
increased fuel consumption,
floating revolutions, displayed on the tachometer by twitching the arrow,
jerking when accelerating or driving.

Auto mechanics identify several reasons why jerking occurs and the engine begins to stall.

. The main ones are: incorrect ignition timing, faulty spark plugs and installed condenser, broken piston rings, piston and valve burnout, rocker wear, clogged air filter, and others.

The cause of the jerking must be sought in the cylinders

To reduce the search for the cause of engine tripping, it is recommended to determine which cylinders are not working correctly or have stopped functioning. To do this, you will need to remove the high-voltage wire from the spark plugs one by one.

This procedure must be performed carefully, as there is a risk of electric shock. Before performing this work, you will need to place a dielectric base in the form of rubber or wood under your feet.

It is recommended to remove by the wire. Then the engine speed increases to 1500 rpm. The valves are removed from the cylinders one by one. If the sound of the vehicle changes when removed, then the cylinder is working correctly. Otherwise, it must be replaced.

Ignition system

Failures associated with the ignition system rarely affect engine vibration at idle speed. This is explained in the same way as with suction by the nature of the combustion of the mixture, depending on the accelerated entry of the air flow into the combustion chamber. And the volume of air plays the opposite role here. It is known to consist of oxygen molecules.

In order to break through it, a spark needs a sufficient amount of energy. When you press the gas pedal, a damper in the throttle assembly opens slightly, allowing a large flow into the receiver, and then into the combustion chamber. If there is a problem in the spark plugs, for example a crack in the insulator, ignition coil or high-voltage wire, it is difficult to break through such a mixture with a large number of oxygen molecules.

There is no combustion and the cylinder does not work. Let me remind you that all this happens precisely under load, when we sharply press the gas pedal, we want to speed up the car. At idle, the throttle valve is completely closed, air enters through the bypass channel of the idle speed regulator to maintain speed. The number of oxygen molecules is not so large and the spark calmly ignites the mixture, the cylinder works, and the car does not stall.

Distributor malfunction applies to carburetor types of engines. It has contact between the slider and the cover electrodes, which disappears when worn. The spark does not have enough strength to reach the spark plugs, much less ignite the fuel-air mixture in the combustion chamber. On carburetor engines, the influence of the spark on tripping at idle is stronger.

The fuel pump in an injection engine can have a direct impact on the fact that the car idles. The pressure readings in the ramp when the ignition is turned on should be within 3-4 atm. Depends on the type of engine installed in the car. If the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is located on the injector ramp, then 3 atm, if in the tank in the submersible pump it is 4 atm.

Pressure gauge MP - 100

The second fuel problem is the injectors. There is a lot of information on them on the Internet. Everything is in the manuals and instructions, but most do not strive to do prevention. In fact, maintenance of injectors, and the entire fuel system as a whole, is the same action as changing the oil. For example, on a can of Wynn's flushing fluid it is written that the injectors need to be flushed every 20-30,000 km.

What causes the car to jerk when running at low speeds?

Since the car begins to twitch when reaching even low speeds, it will not be possible to immediately identify one specific problem. Problems may be hidden:

In the engine fuel mixture supply system;
In the vehicle ignition system;
At the checkpoint;
In the distributor design;
Includes fuel filters;
In the sparking system;
In the control unit of the vehicle's on-board computer.

Let's go through the faults in each of the listed systems in detail.

Checking the engine fuel mixture supply system

Often the reason that the car jerks at low speeds is due to a malfunction of the power system. When the car starts to move, the cylinders simply cannot receive the required amount of fuel mixture, as a result of which the car is unable to transfer the required amount of power to the chassis for smooth driving and smooth commissioning of the transmission. As a result of increased pressure and transmission resistance, uneven running of the machine appears.

To solve this problem, it is recommended that you first pay attention to checking the throttle body. It also wouldn’t hurt to test and diagnose the performance of the sensors installed in the system for determining idle speed indicators.

Do not forget to check the serviceability of the throttle valve position and the mass air flow sensor.

Throttle body

During diagnostics, most often a breakdown is found in the injectors responsible for uniform injection of the fuel mixture. In rare cases, engine jerking problems may be related to the air ducts that connect the injector receiver to the air filter structure. Here the problem lies in depressurization of connections and loss of pressure.

The solution to the problem is to replace all faulty components yourself or with the help of car service specialists. After repair, it is recommended to ensure that all connections are in good working order and that there is no loss of pressure in the fuel line system that is connected to the fuel pump itself.

If a power unit with a carburetor system was installed in the engine compartment of your vehicle, then you need to check the idle valve and the absence of damage directly to the carburetor.

Checking the car's ignition system

Sometimes the car starts to jerk while driving at low speeds as a result of a breakdown in the ignition system. Basically, the problem will be caused due to untimely ignition of the fuel mixture and air flow. In rare cases, the malfunction may be hidden in the receipt of low voltage from the spark plugs. The spark voltage simply will not be enough to ignite the fuel mixture in a timely manner. Also, when diagnosing the ignition system, check:

Performance of ignition coils;
Serviceability of the spark plug set;
No tears in high-voltage wires;
There are no problems in the ignition distributor-interruptor (in simple terms - in the distributor);
Correctness of values coming from a set of sensors responsible for the position of the camshaft and crankshaft;
The performance of the switch located inside the entire structure.

Priora interior heating system

The vehicle is equipped with a stove (heating system) with a climate control system that provides comfort while traveling in the car. They are designed to eliminate problems in the event of cold weather or other weather changes. No one will ask the question why the stove in the Priora does not work, neither the driver nor the passengers.

The car's climate control system includes:

the stove itself (heater);
stove fan device;
temperature sensor in the cabin;
air distributor housing;
airways;
deflectors (directing the flow of air masses).

The air flow from the stove is transmitted to the housing part of the air distributor, from where it is directed along air lines. Through the air ducts, the flow flows to the windshield grilles of the windshield and side windows, to the air mass flow guides in the center and side of the dashboard, as well as to the lower plane of the cabin to the floor pans on the bottom of the body. With the advent of frost, defects in the heating system appear, the most unpleasant of which is that the Lada Priora stove does not work and other malfunctions.

The engine stalled while driving

Sooner or later, every driver may find himself in a situation where a car, which just a few moments ago obeyed all commands, suddenly stops responding to pressing the accelerator pedal, and red lights light up on the dashboard. The engine has stopped working and the car is losing speed.

There are two main reasons:

– the ignition system does not work;

– the power supply system does not work.

Pay attention to the integrity of all units. Check if all the wires are in place, if there are any torn, burnt or damaged insulation

Inspect the gasoline hoses, engine fuel line and fuel filter (installed under the bottom of the car near the rear of the right side sill) for any gasoline leaks.

If gasoline is leaking, do not start the engine under any circumstances until the problem is completely eliminated!

Inspect the cooling system expansion tank to see if coolant has leaked. Also check the oil level in the engine crankcase. If everything is in order, proceed to check the ignition and power systems described earlier, but first check the condition of the timing belt. If the belt is broken, the engine will not start for no apparent reason.

Guys, do you have any thoughts? Priora 2009 Purchased by me in 2022. I drove it for a week, I realized that it wasn’t driving at all, before that I drove Priors, I know how they should drive. What has been done: Replaced pistons with stock ones (butted) 82.0 E-block was not sharpened (measured) ideal cylinders without ellipse, original hon.)

Main bearings Connecting rod bearings DPZ about 5 pieces new IRR about 4 pieces new The throttle was cleaned 4 times Checked for a sub-pine MAF Air filter New Bosch 022 injectors Gasoline filter New mesh was removed for the fuel pump Rail pressure 3.9 whether hot or cold The computer was replaced (mine was soldered on something) installed from the field 797 let's go It seems like After that I changed the timing belt rollers, without touching anything, drove out of the garage and still didn’t move.

Afterwards we checked the marks 4 times, everything was in place! There were rollers from 12 pulleys with shoulders, I installed the same ones, although the pump was Priorov’s and the shaft gears were also Priorov’s and the belt. I don’t know why this is so, they were collective farmers before me. After that)))) Detonation began after it warms up for about half an hour, sits at idle, you start driving and it starts to detonate, you drive about 3 km and it goes away.

UOZ at the same time, according to diagnostics 13, it was decided to open...))) They opened the pistons, they dangle a little back and forth, but this is normal for a Priora. I completely repaired the head, installed new valves, shafts, seals, and cleaned them with Loctite. Some hydraulics are knocking, I didn’t change them. I installed them. The rollers are original from the Priora timing belt.

(The belt is very displaced towards the block, it runs along the very edges of the rollers and a dotted line appeared on it, it’s getting stuck somewhere, I’ll take a look) Oh yes, 3 clutch sets were changed, it twitched a lot when starting off, I didn’t know what was wrong. I changed the flywheel, In the end, I sharpened the old original flywheel and installed everything.

4 sets of spark plugs replaced one coil Alternator belt roller Alternator bearings Starter rebuilt Retractor Brake discs Pads Clutch cable Gaskets under the intake manifold I installed the spider, then I put the catalytic converter back, because the sound is terrible, I didn’t notice the difference.

Euro 2 was stitched. I turned off the lambda, no difference. In short, I have no more strength... The car is practically new))) All this took about 100,000. Maybe someone will say that I’m sick, but I can’t drive a car when it doesn’t drive at all. It gains power very slowly and when you throw 4th gear at 80 to the floor, there is some kind of intrauterine hum and it gains power very slowly.

In short, after assembling the head and installing it, the clutch began to twitch))))) Just like that, after 3 days of sitting in the garage, they didn’t go anywhere to the clutch at all. In short, remove the box, the primary and crankshaft oil seal runs. Changed the result zero ((((((((Help...P/S: who needs advice on repairing priors, please contact)))

Often, Lada Priora car owners notice that their vehicle jerks when accelerating when pressing the gas pedal. Such dips are felt only when you sharply press the gas and at low speeds. In such a situation, it is recommended to check the idle speed sensor, throttle level position, and spark plugs for serviceability.

Expert answer

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Lada expert An expert on Lada cars with many years of experience. I own a Lada Granta car, I collect cramps based on the Priora. Sometimes I stay overnight in the garage. My wife is more jealous of cars than of women.

I can assume that due to power surges, the engine control system “glitched” and went into emergency mode. It’s a pity that we didn’t look at the error code, but most likely the error was: “Low signal level of the gas pedal sensor.”

In this case, you did everything right. We found a box in which it does not rain and removed the battery.

Removing a battery terminal in heavy rain is dangerous; the battery may short out and explode! Yes, this is not a joke, batteries explode!

If you have a similar situation when the engine does not respond to the gas pedal and an error appears on the instrument panel screen, then try the following:

Why can the speed fluctuate?

The injector, unlike carburetor injection, is fully controlled automatically through the engine control unit. Fuel is supplied to the combustion chamber under the action of a high-pressure pump and sprayed through nozzles, mixing with air that is captured from the environment; gasoline, mixed with air, forms the fuel mixture necessary for engine operation. The engine control unit determines the required amount of fuel based on the readings of the entrained air; the amount of air that entered the engine is calculated by the air flow sensor (MAF).

From the above, we can conclude that the slightest problems with the fuel or air supply can lead to unstable idling on the Priora.

List of reasons for floating revolutions:

Air leak;
DMRV malfunction;
IAC malfunction;
DU contamination;
Poor fuel quality;
Fuel pump malfunction;
Clogged filters;

All these breakdowns are most often the cause of floating idle speed. To independently find the cause and eliminate it, you need to understand how to check and how to eliminate one of the problems. Let's look at each of the reasons in more detail to understand its meaning.

Air leak

All air drawn into the engine from the environment must be accounted for by the mass air flow sensor. If air is left out, the mixture will not mix at the correct consistency, resulting in an incorrect fuel mixture and therefore unstable idle speed.

Air leaks on a Priora can be at the junctions of the corrugation with the mass air flow sensor and the throttle assembly, at the idle air regulator, at the intake manifold (when adjacent to the cylinder head), at the injectors (rubber rings), at the dipstick. Leaking most often occurs due to aging o-rings on the receiver and injectors. Due to exposure to high temperatures from the engine, the rubber dries out and loses its properties, allowing air to pass through, which is not taken into account by the mass air flow sensor.

How to check air leaks can be studied in detail here.

DMRV malfunction

If the mass air flow sensor malfunctions, the air flow will not be calculated correctly, therefore, the fuel mixture will not be formed correctly, which will certainly lead to improper operation of the internal combustion engine, increased fuel consumption and other related problems.

You can learn how to quickly and easily check the mass air flow sensor on a Priora here.

IAC malfunction

The idle air control was installed on the VAZ 2110 and Priora, but until 2012. In the 12th year, Priora received an electronic throttle unit, which does not have throttle position and idle speed sensors.

The regulator is an electric motor that closes the air supply channel. A rubber ring is used as a seal between the remote control and the IAC, which serves to seal the system, which quite often gets lost or loses its properties.

More information about IAC can be found in this article.

Throttle body clogged

With high mileage in cars, crankcase gases begin to throw up oil, since in the Priora a small breather is connected to the intake corrugation, oil particles fall on the throttle assembly, namely its valve, and settle on it, thereby polluting it and creating resistance to air flow. A clogged throttle body can significantly affect engine performance.

https://enginehack.ru/chistka-drosselnoj-zaslonki-na-priore/You can learn how to clean the throttle valve yourself here.

Bad fuel

Fuel plays a huge role in engine performance. Just one refueling with low-quality fuel can seriously damage your car and practically break it. If the gasoline contains debris, its particles can clog the filter and stop the supply of fuel to the engine.

Clogged filters

Filters clean the fuel before it enters the engine. The more often a driver refuels at low-quality gas stations, the more he exposes his car to danger. Filters become clogged quite often due to low-quality fuel. It is recommended to replace filters every year before winter.

Fuel pump malfunction

As is known, for the injector to work, fuel must be supplied to the system under a certain pressure, which is pumped by the fuel pump. When this part fails, the fuel pressure does not reach the required parameters, which leads to unstable operation.

More information about the fuel pump can be found here.

Description of the problem

In general, there was a terrible downpour, puddles on the roads, and general floods in the yards.

Heavy rain could affect the operation of the car's electronic systems

Belt whistled due to water ingress

Among the current consumers, my headlights were on, the rear window was heated, the tape recorder was working quietly, and the heater was turned on at second speed to blow the windshield.

I repeated the experiment in the garage. I started it up, tried to press the gas pedal, nothing happened, the revs were like a glove, the engine icon was still on.

How I solved the problem of gas pedal failure

I took a smoke break and decided to remove the terminal from the battery.
I reset it and waited five minutes. He swore that he forgot the diagnostic adapter at home.
Reconnected the terminal and started it.
“Jackie Chan” stopped burning, the engine reacts to the gas pedal with a vigorous increase in speed. The engine really didn’t start at first, it started only the second time.

I left the garage, circled along the pit line, and came back. There were no signs of damage. Now I'm afraid to drive in the rain.

What could it be? Now I’m subconsciously afraid that if I start the engine, my Lada Granta won’t want to go anywhere in rainy weather. How likely is this situation to happen again?

Advantages and disadvantages of an electronic pedal

Over the 7 years of operation of the Lada Priora with an electronic throttle control system, car enthusiasts have compiled pronounced pros and cons of operating a car with e-gas.

Advantages:

Reduced fuel consumption. If you press the gas too hard, the ECU will correct this moment and prevent either overspeeding or increased fuel consumption. “Over-gassing” will not work;
Environmental friendliness. The introduction of this system took place under the influence of the popular movement of automakers who bring their cars to European standards. Priora is Euro 4 compliant;
Instant response of the car to pressing the accelerator lever (only if the system is working properly).

Flaws:

Slow acceleration (dynamic acceleration is lost);
Non-repairability of the system (sensors can be replaced, but the entire system cannot be repaired);
Softer pressure.

Description of the problem

In general, there was a terrible downpour, puddles on the roads, and general floods in the yards.

Heavy rain could affect the operation of the car's electronic systems

Belt whistled due to water ingress

Among the current consumers, my headlights were on, the rear window was heated, the tape recorder was working quietly, and the heater was turned on at second speed to blow the windshield.

I repeated the experiment in the garage. I started it up, tried to press the gas pedal, nothing happened, the revs were like a glove, the engine icon was still on.

How I solved the problem of gas pedal failure

I took a smoke break and decided to remove the terminal from the battery.
I reset it and waited five minutes. He swore that he forgot the diagnostic adapter at home.
Reconnected the terminal and started it.
“Jackie Chan” stopped burning, the engine reacts to the gas pedal with a vigorous increase in speed. The engine really didn’t start at first, it started only the second time.

I left the garage, circled along the pit line, and came back. There were no signs of damage. Now I'm afraid to drive in the rain.

What could it be? Now I’m subconsciously afraid that if I start the engine, my Lada Granta won’t want to go anywhere in rainy weather. How likely is this situation to happen again?

Features of the Lada Granta throttle assembly

The throttle valve is turned by an electric motor through a gearbox. Both are built into the throttle body. When starting and warming up the engine, as well as during idling, the flow of air into the cylinders is regulated by opening the throttle valve. The throttle position is controlled by two sensors built into the throttle body.

The throttle valve opening angle is set by the electronic control unit (ECU) depending on the estimated amount of air that should enter the engine cylinders. This takes into account the operating mode of the engine (starting, warming up, idling, and so on), the temperature of the ambient air and the engine, and the position of the gas pedal.

Control commands are sent to the throttle assembly to the electric motor. At the same time, the ECU monitors the opening angle of the damper and, if necessary, sends appropriate commands to adjust its position. As a result of the fact that the ECU simultaneously regulates the amount of injected fuel and incoming air, the optimal composition of the combustible mixture is maintained in any engine operating mode.

The electric throttle body is sensitive to deposits that may accumulate on its inner surface. The resulting layer of deposits can interfere with the smooth movement of the throttle valve, jamming it (especially at low opening angles). As a result, the engine will operate unstably and even stall at idle, start poorly, and failures may also appear during transient conditions. To avoid this, as a preventive measure, deposits should be removed with special detergent compounds during regular vehicle maintenance. A large layer of deposits can completely block the movement of the damper. If flushing fails to restore the throttle assembly to operability, it must be replaced.

Fuel pump is faulty

A fuel pump malfunction may be caused by oxidation of the wires in the connector. The power supply to the fuel pump is unstable, and, as a result, fuel is simply not supplied to the engine. This can be fixed by simply cleaning the contacts. There may also be a problem with the pump itself. Nothing lasts forever, and it can fail. But the most common fuel pump malfunction is contamination of the primary strainer. There is no point in washing it; it is better to buy a new one and replace it.

In this article, we looked at the most common reasons for the engine stopping while driving. If the information presented in the article does not help solve the problem, we strongly recommend that you contact a car service center.

Why the engine jerks during acceleration: the main reasons

Let's start with the fact that most of the reasons why such deviations occur in the operation of internal combustion engines are often associated with the following systems:

engine power system;
internal combustion engine ignition system;

The culprit may be either the carburetor itself (dirty jets, incorrect settings, etc.) or the fuel pump. At the same time, we should not exclude the possibility that excess air is being sucked in somewhere, which causes the carburetor engine to jerk when accelerating the car.

As for modern injection engines, a number of common problems will be similar to engines with a carburetor. At the same time, problems that are characteristic exclusively of units with injection injection are also added to the list.

Let's focus on the possible causes of dips and jerks

First of all, let's start with the ignition system. As a rule, if problems arise in this system, there is a loss of power and the unit consumes more fuel. Usually spark plugs, high-voltage armored wires, and ignition coils fail. We also note that on injection cars the problem may lie in a faulty camshaft position sensor (CPR).

If no breakdown is detected, you should unscrew the spark plugs and inspect them. The electrodes must be intact, excessive carbon deposits are not allowed, the insulator must not have cracks, etc. Checks may also require armored wires. In some cases, after replacing the spark plugs and spark plug wires, the engine stops jerking during intense acceleration.

However, it happens that these methods do not bring the desired result. In such a case, it is necessary to check the camshaft position sensor separately.

Let us also add that the ignition timing (ignition timing, ignition timing) also deserves special attention. If the car jerks when accelerating, the ignition may be too early. On carburetor internal combustion engines, it is necessary to manually set the specified angle. On the injection unit, adjustment occurs automatically. However, we should not forget that interference with the factory firmware of the ECU (especially on cars with gas equipment) or problems with sensors can lead to malfunctions of the ignition system.

To quickly check the ignition timing, you need to accelerate the car to a speed of about 50 km/h. After this, a higher gear is engaged (for example, 4th), and then you will need to sharply press the gas pedal. Detonation will immediately appear in the engine, which should not last more than a couple of seconds with a normally adjusted OZ.

Now let's move on to the power system. At the very beginning, you should make sure that the fuel tank is filled with fuel suitable for the vehicle and meeting quality standards. Very often jerks and failures occur when low quality fuel was filled. In some cases, a “check” may also light up on the dashboard of fuel-injected cars.

Another element to check is the air filter. Its contamination will also lead to the fact that the unit will not receive enough air, which is necessary to prepare the fuel-air mixture.

If the filters are clean or new, but the jerks are repeated, then you need to move on to checking the injector. The first step is to diagnose the injection nozzles. Contamination of the injectors leads to the fact that the engine is not supplied with fuel, which is needed in afterburner mode in full.

To solve this problem, the nozzles are removed, then their performance, spray quality (flash shape), timely response to opening and closing, etc. are checked. The next step is to measure the fuel pressure in the fuel rail.

If the pressure is low, then the cause may be the fuel pressure regulator, a problem with the fuel line, or the fuel pump. As for the fuel pump, which is located in the tank, the device has its own separate mesh filter, which also becomes dirty over time.

As a result, the pump is not able to pump hotter into the ramp and maintain the required pressure with a sharply increasing load on the internal combustion engine. This reason is the most common in relation to jerks and dips when pressing the gas sharply. To solve this problem, it is necessary to remove the fuel pump, and also clean or replace the fuel pump strainer.

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Comments 23

Pedal adaptation helps me personally!
When I came for diagnostics, about six months after purchasing the car, the diagnostics showed that the gas pedal was not adapted! I performed the above operation on rpm from 1000 to 4000 and it adapted! These failures, if you suddenly give the gas to the floor even for a second, are annoying! After chipping there was not a single failure at all, you press sharply and it immediately slips without delay! For some reason, about a month later, a small failure appeared again! This is not an adaptation! What you described is enabling the misfire diagnostic function.

Throttle valve adaptation is done as follows:

1. Ignition on 2. Wait 30-40 seconds. 3. Start the internal combustion engine. 4. Turn off the ignition 5. Wait for the main relay to turn off. 6. Everything

But only then we go to the track and adapt the passes.

But before this, you need to warm up the internal combustion engine until the fan turns on three times.

initialization, and then the above written by the author! Helps! ) BC State1 for help or diagnostics

The staff transfers to 95th without training, many ride on 92nd

You read more carefully (— adaptation of the throttle position zero. For this, the first turn on of the ignition switch after replacing the controller) after replacing the controller. Removing the terminal from the battery or resetting the settings by the staff does not affect anything. Again, we carefully read (adaptation of the misfire diagnostic function of the controller in order to avoid damage to the catalytic manifold and possible fire of the car) misfires have nothing to do with the pedal in general. In the first case, all this is done at the factory. This is only necessary when the brain changes or the throttle assembly.

or by “resetting” it with initialization using diagnostic equipment, my B.K can do initialization, so for whom how

If the staff resets it, won’t it work?

I think no! The state only resets the values to zero! This is different!

I’ll try this during the day, otherwise I’ve already sinned on the filter, you press the pedal, from 2 to 3 there are dips, that is, no!

try! Let me know if it helped or not!

I need to try it, otherwise there are holes in my guts

everything is clear, I just changed the firmware, I did it! But when I drove around after buying the car for about six months and stopped by for diagnostics! It revealed that for some reason the pedal was not adjusted! And even after the firmware, the car was tearing out from under itself, and about two weeks ago small gaps appeared again! I tried from 1000 to 4000 as it was written to do everything, the pedal became more responsive! But it’s still not the same as right after the firmware!

A two-mode “booster,” so to speak, deceives the ECU: it makes it think that we pressed the pedal harder than it actually happened. It works in a more rigid coupling with the engine

But it is important to understand that this will not result in more “horses” and the nominal acceleration will not change, it’s just that the ecological “cotton wool” disappears from the pedal. In principle, the driver could drive at the same pace before, just press with his right foot more boldly

Next up is a Mini at the go-kart track and a Tiguan in the city. Both cars only confirm the above. However, sitting in a Volkswagen crossover, I very opportunely remember about the sport mode of the DSG transmission and decide to compare it with the operation of a “booster”. The latter predictably pales in comparison to this convenient feature. I think that for cars that have a “sport mode”, the accelerator will most likely be superfluous. The “brain” block of modern two-pedal boxes makes the actuators move faster in “sport”; pushes down a gear quickly and coordinates it with engine speed, achieving the best torque output. This is the real environmental killer. But the “booster” does not have such an arsenal.

Inspection of high voltage wire

Often, the Priora stalls when accelerating due to a malfunction of the ignition system. This is especially true for the condition of the high-voltage wire leading to the spark plug. To inspect it, you will need to remove the tip attached to the spark plug. The structure of a high-voltage wire is as follows: the winding contains the central core of the wire. The tip, which is put on the candle, has a persistent metal penny. The main purpose of this element is to transmit current to the spark plug.

The core of the high-voltage wire should fit as tightly as possible to the “penny” of the steel tip placed on the spark plug. Due to aging, contact between this element and the wire may be lost due to oxidation of the metal. As a result, tripling occurs. The oxidation of the contact is checked as follows: with the second probe of the multimeter, you should touch the central core of the high-voltage wire; if the core of the high-voltage wire burns out along its entire length, then it is possible to identify such a section using a special multimeter tip.

The wire is pierced until the affected area is identified every 5-10 mm. If such a section is detected, it is cut off if the length of the high-voltage wire allows it. Otherwise, it needs to be replaced.