Steering rack knocking on Kalina is a fairly common occurrence. About a year ago, small tapping noises began to appear on broken primer or crushed stone. And over time, the knocking became stronger. I've been meaning to do this repair for a long time, but never got around to it. Although, it’s difficult to call it a repair, since you won’t have to disassemble anything, you just need to tighten the nut. Now about everything in order and in more detail. And for starters, as always, a list of necessary tools:
- Head with a knob or regular 10
- Wrench 13 (the head will be most convenient)
- Special wrench for tightening the steering rack of Kalina (VAZ 2110)
Unusual reasons
Often sounds may not appear due to the failure of any element; non-standard reasons also occur. For example, one car enthusiast experienced a knocking noise after a pebble flew onto the subframe and got stuck there.
When the steering wheel was turned, the elements shifted, but they ran over this pebble, and when the steering wheel moved back, they jumped off it, making a knocking noise. Removing this stone eliminated the problem.
For the second car enthusiast, after repairing the suspension, the replaced front arm hit the subframe when turning, which was accompanied by a knocking sound. This problem was “cured” by raising the subframe with a pry bar.
These are somewhat unusual reasons for the appearance of knocking, but they have happened to car owners, so they should not be discounted.
In general, often the cause of extraneous sound when turning the steering wheel can be identified by carefully inspecting the front of the car, as well as checking the fastening of certain elements.
Steering wheel sticks when turning with ignition on
That is, it does not return back, but remains, as it were, bitten in the extreme left or right position. And this, even at a very low speed! Moreover, if the ignition is turned off, this situation is natural for any car. But when turned on... Agree, this can lead to irreparable consequences.
In this case, the problem of why the steering wheel sticks when turning is to blame for the faulty switch block, the steering column. You may have to deal with the ignition switch itself. Therefore, if you are not an automotive electrician, it is best not to take risks, since it is very difficult to carry out this work yourself without appropriate training. So, we turn on the emergency lights and slowly and carefully crawl to the nearest service station, where there is an appropriate specialist. And be careful when turning: enter them smoothly, without twisting the steering wheel to extreme positions, so as not to bite again.
Steering rack tightening
- In the very center of the steering rack, strictly on the opposite side, by touch we look for a rubber cap, which we remove from its place with our hands or with a screwdriver.
Any car enthusiast will enjoy this view from above. - Then, using a special key, we get to the rail and fix it in the seat.
- When performing work from the engine compartment, turn the key counterclockwise (when repairing under the car, clockwise - approx.).
It is on this seat (indicated by the yellow arrow) that the key should be fixed. - There is no need to tighten the rack; during the first tightening, the moment from the initial position should not exceed more than 30 degrees.
Design Features
The steering system of the Lada Kalina includes an electric power steering and a steering column that is adjustable in height and tilt. The steering mechanism is a steering rack with a variable transmission ratio. The rack engages with the engine crankcase through a gear having helical teeth, the pitch of which varies along the length of the rack. The figure shows the design of the Kalina steering rack.
The steering rack on Kalina is pressed against the gear by a spring. Friction is reduced by a plastic insert. The spring pressure is changed with an adjusting nut (the factory-set gap between the rack and the shaft is 0.1 mm). The second end of the rail rests against a plastic sleeve. Adjusting the gap helps eliminate knocking noises.
The steering system shaft is installed in bearings (one in the column bracket, the other in the electric booster housing). The column bracket is attached to the pedal bracket (front) and to the body bracket. The column bracket with the pipe is connected in the form of a hinge of two plates, which allows you to change the position of the steering wheel, and the range of movement is limited by the slots in the plates.
To fix the position of the pipe, there is a lever connected to the adjusting sleeve. It is screwed into a coupling bolt located in the slots of the plates. When you turn the lever, the bushing rotates, loosening the fixation of the plate, which allows you to change the position of the steering wheel. Springs between the plates and the bracket pull the pipe up when the fastening is loosened.
The steering system of the Lada Kalina has two tie rods and swing arms. The rod consists of external and internal tips and an adjusting threaded sleeve, which, when rotated, changes the length of the rod. The required adjustment of the rods is fixed with bolts. The rod is connected to the swing arm using an external tip that has a ball-type joint.
Kalina's electric power steering reduces the force applied to the steering wheel. It is assembled on the basis of an electric motor with a gearbox located under the steering system casing. The amplifier is controlled by an electronic unit that receives signals from sensors of vehicle speed, shaft rotation and steering torque.
The principle of operation of the amplifier is based on the fact that when the car is stationary, the torque on the steering shaft is the greatest, and when moving, it decreases with increasing speed. There is a power steering indicator on the dashboard.
Step-by-step order of preparatory work
If you are not the lucky owner of a garage with a pit or a lift, work on tightening the steering rack can be done on the ground, but before doing this you need to prepare the work area.
- First of all, remove the battery, unscrew the terminals and fasteners of the batteries one by one (if available - approx.).
Remove the battery clamps carefully - We remove the battery and put it aside.
- Next, remove the mat under which there are 4 more bolts securing the battery stand.
By unscrewing these 4 bolts around the perimeter, the pillow can be easily removed - Then we move it forward a little so that it is detached from the air filter mounting pad.
- When nothing interferes with it, we move it in the opposite direction as much as is convenient for working with the steering rack.
Signs of a faulty steering mechanism
The first time after purchasing a car, novice drivers pay more attention to the road situation, without really listening to the behavior of the car.
The skill of keeping an eye on both the road and the car itself only comes with time.
This skill is very important because it allows a possible malfunction to be identified at an early stage, which can not only significantly reduce the cost of repairs, but also affect safety.
And it is not always possible to contact the service for diagnostics.
Any car consists of many components and mechanisms, and problems can arise with each of them. Moreover, a number of components of the car are responsible for safety during movement, so their condition must be monitored first.
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These components include the steering mechanism.
Most malfunctions in cars are accompanied by the appearance of third-party sounds - noises, squeals, knocks.
And an experienced driver is able to determine, when they appear, which unit has problems.
But for example, not every experienced driver is able to identify the cause of a knock when pressing the brake or gas pedal.
The main sign of problems with the steering mechanism is also the appearance of third-party sounds.
Most often, the knocking occurs when the steering wheel is turned either in one or both directions.
Although it is worth noting that this is not always the case, the fault may also be with another component of the car, located next to the steering mechanism.
A knock in the steering mechanism is not a problem for certain car brands; it can appear in the Soviet-made VAZ-2106, in the new domestic Kalina, and in cars from European and Asian manufacturers.
Of course, the likelihood of such a problem occurring in a foreign brand car is somewhat lower than in Kalina, but it does exist.
The fault is often due to poor quality assembly of the car. The same VAZ “Kalina” is already structurally approaching foreign cars, but its assembly is still “lame”.
But Kalina and other cars from VAZ are still in demand, because their price is an order of magnitude lower than in Europe.
Therefore, a large segment of cars on our roads is occupied by domestically produced models.
We change other details
We also pay attention to how the steering rack looks externally. “Kalina” can keep many secrets regarding maintenance, so if there is the slightest doubt about the serviceability of the rack elements, we replace them with new ones. Otherwise, you will have to remove this part again. The components themselves can be purchased in a repair kit. This will not pose much difficulty for the modern car enthusiast. Having replaced and adjusted all the necessary components, we assemble the rack in the reverse order. That's it, the repair has been successfully completed.
Signs that your steering rack needs to be tightened
First, you need to turn down the radio volume and listen to the suspension work. If at low speeds there is a knocking sound over small irregularities, there may, of course, be several reasons, but the most likely is a loose steering rack. Secondly, you need to constantly monitor the steering play; its presence also indicates that the steering rack is not working in normal mode.
Moreover, the presence of play is an unpleasant signal; it makes the steering wheel’s reaction unpredictability in response to your actions, and even with a play of 10 degrees you will not pass the state inspection.
How to avoid
To avoid the appearance of new knocks after repair, you must follow a few simple rules:
- Do not reach high speeds on uneven and gravel-covered roads, as well as when driving over potholes and potholes. And if you still can’t avoid this, be sure to ensure that the steering wheel is not in the extreme position at the moment the front wheels come into contact with the obstacle.
- Do not make sudden acceleration or braking when the steering wheel is in the extreme position.
- Do not drive onto curbs or high curbs.
Thanks to following these simple rules, knocks will not bother you for a long time, and the steering rack will last even longer.
Causes related to drive and suspension
Now let's move on to other elements of the car in which knocking may occur when turning the steering wheel. There are not many of them, but malfunctions with them can lead to expensive repairs
If you hear a knocking sound with a crunching effect when the wheel is turned completely, this often indicates severe wear of the constant velocity joint (CV joint) used in the wheel drive mechanism.
The CV joint itself is a fairly reliable element if it is protected from dust and dirt getting inside. Read on the topic - replacing the inner CV joint boot of popular car models.
Therefore, it is quite easy to determine that this is the cause of the knocking when turning - you need to carefully inspect the protective boot.
If it is damaged, we can say with complete confidence that the cause of the third-party crunch is the CV joint.
Many car enthusiasts claim that it is possible to fully restore the performance of the CV joint by removing it, washing it and adding new lubricant.
Some additionally add small shavings of soft plastic to the lubricant, for example, from a cork from a Champagne bottle. Be sure to replace the damaged boot.
However, such measures can only delay the replacement of the hinge for a while and in the end it will still have to be replaced. And when to perform this operation - immediately upon detection of damage to the boot, or a little later - it is up to the car enthusiast to decide.
In many modern domestic cars, the weak point is the shock absorber strut bearing. It can also cause knocking.
This problem seems to be easily solved - it is enough to replace the support, but sometimes this is not very easy to do. After all, you will have to remove the entire rack from the car.
Also, a broken strut spring may be knocking in the suspension. At the same time, it will no longer be able to fully perform its functions, which will lead to rapid failure of the shock absorber.
Therefore, if noise appears, you should immediately inspect the spring. If it bursts, you will have to change it, and it is changed in pairs on both sides of the car.
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If you hear a knocking sound on your car when turning, but it is also accompanied by a hum, it is likely that all this is due to wear on the wheel bearing.
It is quite easy to diagnose his condition.
You need to jack up the wheel on the side where the knock is coming from and rock it, checking for axial play.
If such play exists, the bearing needs to be replaced, which is impossible to do without the appropriate equipment and knowledge.
Preventing knocking noises
All of the above problems can arise not only with domestic cars, but also with expensive foreign cars. And the difference between these cars comes down only to the time after which the malfunction appears.
Naturally, a foreign car will pass more without a malfunction than the same Priora. But repairing a foreign car, if, for example, its CV joint has failed, will cost much more.
In most cases, knocking noises are caused by inadequate road surfaces. Moving over bumps and holes leads to the fact that all fasteners begin to weaken, hence the appearance of backlash.
To prevent knocking noises when turning the steering wheel, periodic inspection of all elements is required. Moreover, this will require very little, and you can do everything yourself.
The car is placed on an inspection hole or overpass, after which, while under it, you should carefully inspect all the elements, check the tightness of all fasteners with wrenches, tighten the nuts and bolts if necessary, swing the levers with a pry bar, checking for play.
If you do all this periodically, you can avoid the occurrence of knocking noises, or at least increase the life of the car before they occur.
Also, when traveling, you need to adhere to the speed limit, and go through difficult sections at low speed in order to slightly reduce the load on the elements of the suspension steering mechanism.
And if in front of you unexpectedly there are depressions in the road surface, then slow down the car (the car will seem to nose down), and immediately before the problem section of the road, release the brake pedal.
The front of the car will rise, thereby unloading the front suspension, and the car will coast over uneven roads without much damage to the chassis.
Tightening process, video
There are several ways to tighten. One of them is the method of removing the slats. The removed rail is clamped in a vice and then, using a special wrench, the nut is tightened 10-15 degrees by turning it counterclockwise.
This is followed by a check for backlash and, if necessary, the procedure is repeated, since the backlash can be more or less. It is not advisable to overtighten, it will be difficult to rotate the steering wheel. The advantage of this method is the ease of adjustment, but the disadvantage is that you have to remove and then put the steering rack back in place, and this requires time, certain knowledge and skills.
The second method is simpler, it does not require removing the steering rack, you just need to remove the battery and the platform under it with four bolts, but it is much easier and faster than removing and installing the steering rack. This way we gain access to the steering rack and steering rods.
We take hold of the rod with our hand and begin to shake it with force. A characteristic knock will immediately indicate the presence of play. The stop nut is located on the rack behind the left link from the bottom; you need to feel it with your finger. Now the task is to get the wrench into the nut and then turn it counterclockwise. We check for play and, if necessary, tighten it further.
But in the video there is another tightening option, even without removing the battery:
Element design features
For cars such as, for example, Kalina, constant repair of any components and assemblies is a normal condition. Even the most reliable part tends to fail sooner or later, so all owners will need to have their steering rack repaired. "Kalina" has the following structure of this mechanism:
- The steering wheel transmits rotational motion through the column to the drive gear.
- The latter, having a movable connection with the rail, transfers this energy to it and makes it move.
- The ends of the rods that turn the wheels are attached to the steering rack.
Common causes of knocking noise associated with the steering mechanism
Now let's look at typical problems and how to fix them.
The first thing you need to do is check the pressure in the wheels, because the difference in tire inflation may be the cause of the knocking.
Then check the fastening of the plastic protective fender liners. It is quite possible that the screws that secure them to the body have broken out, causing the fender liner to come off and cling to the wheel, making a knocking sound when turning.
In general, such a malfunction is very easy to fix; all you need to do is secure the torn fender liner with new screws.
The most dangerous from a safety point of view is the appearance of a knock in the steering mechanism itself. To check the condition of the mechanism, you will need to drive the car onto an overpass.
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The first thing you need to check is the steering ends. Damage to the tip boot leads to sand getting inside it, which intensively wears out the surfaces of this element, causing play to appear in the tip, which is the source of knocking.
You can check the condition of the ends by loosening the tie rod with a pry bar.
Strong play and knocking will indicate wear on the tip and the need to replace it.
Steering ends for domestic cars are relatively inexpensive, and you can purchase them at almost any auto store.
Replacing them is also easy. It is recommended to replace both tips at once.
The complexity of performing this work comes down to the need to use a special puller.
After replacing the tips, you will still have to contact a service station to set the wheel alignment angles.
A knock may also appear in the steering rod silent blocks. They are located in the place where these rods are attached to the steering rack.
Delamination of the rubber of these silent blocks can also lead to knocking, although it will appear not only when turning, but constantly while driving.
This steering mechanism malfunction, although very rare, is still possible. It can be eliminated by removing the steering rods and pressing in new silent blocks.
A knock may also appear in the steering mechanism itself. It usually forms after the rack guide bushings wear out, causing a gap to appear between the rack and gear.
In some cases, everything can be eliminated by removing the gap with the mechanism's adjusting bolt.
If this is no longer possible, you will need to remove the mechanism from the car, disassemble it and replace the worn guide bushings.
A knock may even appear in the steering column universal joint.
If for some reason it is damaged, it is quite possible that it is the cause of the appearance of third-party sounds. This problem is “treated” by replacing the cardan.
You should also check the fastening of the mechanism body to the car body. Loose clamps may cause noise. This can all be eliminated by tightening the fastening nuts.
Vehicle control system design
On the technical side, the Lada Kalina steering rack is a mechanism that has a gear mounted on a shaft, which is connected to a rack and special rods. It is thanks to them that the process of turning the car occurs, by converting the movement of the steering wheel into a horizontal deviation of the front wheels in the direction desired by the driver.
Currently, automobile manufacturers use 3 variants of the rack and pinion mechanism in the production of cars:
- mechanical;
- hydraulic;
- electric.
The mechanical rack is the simplest in terms of design and is therefore installed on most modern cars. Here, the rotation of special rods is carried out solely due to the physical strength of the driver. Naturally, driving a car equipped with such a control device is quite difficult.
The second option for equipping vehicles is a hydraulic mechanism. The Lada Kalina and Kalina 2 models are equipped with it. As a result, their owner receives not only sharpness, but also lightness of the steering wheel. Most modern cars are equipped with a hydraulic steering wheel.
Another option for a car control system that can reduce the load on the driver is an electric drive for the steering mechanism. In it, the turning force is increased due to the operation of an electric motor built into the column. This device is used only on luxury and premium cars; for example, it can be found as an additional option on the top-spec Lada Kalina.
In addition, there is a mixed version of power steering - electrohydromechanical. It combines all the positive qualities of hydraulic and electric power steering. You can see it, for example, in a car.
Each type of control system has both its advantages and disadvantages, but they break down with approximately the same frequency. At the same time, if a breakdown of the mechanical system for controlling the direction of movement of the car leads to relatively small costs for its repair, faults in hydraulics and electrical systems can lead to very serious expenses on the part of the car owner.
Repair, price
A lift is a fairly simple and quick way, but often it is only a partial, temporary solution to the problem. After all, the appearance of play can be caused by various reasons - the boot may be damaged, gaskets may leak and who knows what else, that is, there is a high probability that the steering rack is running dry.
If you suspect the need for repairs, consider whether you can handle it yourself. Get ready for the fact that you will have to spend the whole day in interesting positions, and you will also need an assistant to perform some operations. Do you know how to install the rack so that the steering wheel is level? If not, you risk having to do the installation again.
An alternative is a service station. They will charge you around 3,500 rubles for repairs, the repair kit costs 200 rubles and another 200 will be spent on anthers and so on.
The easiest option is to buy a new rack, complete with rods for about 6,000 rubles, there are, of course, racks with bells and whistles (short-stroke, sports, etc.), these cost about 10,000 rubles, the choice is yours.
Love and respect your steering rack and it will love you back!
Steering rack - simplicity and reliability
The steering mechanism of a car is designed to change the direction of its movement. It has been tested and tested for more than a hundred years, but meticulous designers still find new solutions to improve its performance.
The steering rack is no exception - a relatively simple and reliable mechanism, the operating principle of which is based on the interaction of the “rack-and-pinion steering shaft worm” pair, which converts the rotational movement of the steering shaft into the reciprocating movement of the steering rods.
