Priora electric power steering fails

Today, every Priora is equipped with electric power steering (EPS), and this also applies to basic configurations. At the beginning of the car's release, the unit came as an additional comfort option. Owners of this model know that the unit often jams and fails. The power steering has become the weak point of the Priora, but if necessary, repairs can be done with your own hands. In this material we will take a detailed look at what the EUR is, what breakdowns occur in this unit and how to fix them yourself. You should take on the job only if you have experience in servicing a car, since when replacing it we will have to disassemble half of the dashboard.

Purpose of the unit

Due to the operation of the ESD, the load and force on the steering wheel are reduced when making a turn. The unit greatly facilitates driving, and at high speed it does not allow dangerous maneuvers.

The unit includes the following components:

Steering wheel;
Column;
Shaft;
Electric motor;
Steering mechanism;
Electronic control unit (ECU);
Torque sensor.

When turning, the electric power steering is activated. The torque is provided by an electric motor, which is present in the EUR design. The torque sensor measures the indicator and sends it to the ECU. Depending on the angle of rotation, the block calculates how much power needs to be given to the motor. The switch located under the steering wheel contains a device that determines the angle of rotation. The torque and rotation sensors transmit data to the ECU, which “determines” whether the electric motor is running at the desired speed.

On previous generations of VAZ cars, a hydraulic booster was installed; it gave almost the same force in all rotation ranges. As for the electric power steering, the degree of force depends on many factors - the speed of rotation of the steering wheel and its angle, the speed of the power plant, the speed of movement.

Malfunctions and their symptoms

Undoubtedly, the electric booster is a more reliable unit than a device running on hydraulics, but malfunctions also appear in the power steering. If they are detected, repairs must be carried out immediately, since the safety of the driver, his companions and other road users depends on the operation of the amplifier.

Complete failure of the EUR

As practice shows, this unit does not have many faults; breakdowns occur in the same parts. The first thing worth considering is the complete failure of the ESD. When you turn off the amplifier, you need to check the on-board computer screen; most likely, you will see a code there indicating a malfunction in the unit. But sometimes it is possible to determine when an amplifier is turned off only in practice.

We perform the following actions:

Turn off the engine and turn the steering wheel in different directions several times;
We repeat these steps, but with the engine running;
Has the steering effort changed? This means the node has completely shut down.

Even with the ESD not working, you can continue driving, but this is not recommended. The driver needs time to get used to driving with the help of an amplifier. It is better to immediately begin diagnostics and determine which component requires repair or replacement.

Sometimes the amplifier and speedometer stop working at the same time. The cause of this defect is a speed sensor that has failed. Taking a look at the electrical diagram, you will understand that these three elements are connected. The torque sensor supplies data to the control unit, it compares it with speed and determines the force. If the cause is the speed sensor, then the repair consists of checking the wiring that leads to this element. It is also worth checking the wires connecting the sensor to the speedometer and power steering. If there are no breaks in the switching, then the sensor should be changed.

Low voltage in the car network can also lead to the ESD turning off. Faults should be looked for in the wiring insulation. If it is damaged, short circuits will appear in the network. Also, violations in insulation lead to malfunction of the generator. To troubleshoot the problem, check the wiring and generator. The torque sensor contains many contacts, which, if heavily soiled, help turn off the power steering. In this case, repair means disassembling the unit and cleaning the contacts of the torque sensor.

Unpredictable steering behavior

The driver is driving on a flat road, the position of the steering wheel does not change, and suddenly the car turns to the side. Such unpredictable behavior of the power steering requires urgent diagnosis, since at the most inopportune moment the electric power steering of the Lada Priora can send the car to the side of the road or into the oncoming lane. In such a situation, you should stop driving and turn off the amplifier. To do this, we need to remove the fuse, which is responsible for supplying voltage to the amplifier.

To remove this fuse, you need to do the following:

The mounting block cover is located at the driver’s left foot;
We turn the clamps and unclip the fasteners;
You will find the block where the required fuse is located near the expansion tank;
Feel free to take out fuse F5 (50 A) - it is responsible for providing the power supply circuit to the power steering unit.

Fuse box location

If you suspect that a fuse has blown and you want to check it, then the question arises: where is the Priora electric power steering fuse located? The control mounting block is located to the left of the steering wheel. Its opening scheme is simple. All you need to do is turn the three latches 90˚ and remove the cover, as shown in the photo, and you get to the brain stuffing of the car.

Here you can check and replace the failed fuse, then close the lid by pressing it tightly and snapping the three latches back 90˚ in the opposite direction.

You can carry out diagnostics and minor repairs to the Priora's electric power steering with your own hands. To do this, it is enough to determine what caused the failure and fix the problem, following our advice. It is better to entrust a complete replacement of the electric amplifier to professionals.

Replacing the EUR

So, you need to replace the electric booster on the Priora or simply check the condition of its contacts. In any case, repair involves complete removal of the unit. Prepare the necessary tools:

Chisel and hammer.
Deep head for 8 and 13.
Extension and ratchet, alternatively you can use a wrench.

It’s quite easy to remove the amplifier itself with your own hands, but in order to get to its mounts and the control unit, you will need to remove many parts of the dashboard: the steering wheel along with the airbag, the casing and the ignition switch. Once these components are removed, repairs to the amplifier can begin.

Step-by-step instruction

We take the “eighth” head, put on the ratchet and remove the contact group, as shown in the photo below;

Now you can study the contacts in detail and, if necessary, make repairs. If you know that the main components (control unit, motor) have failed, then you need to replace them. Installation of a new device occurs in the reverse order. The DIY repair is complete.

There are two types of power steering: electric power steering and hydraulic power steering. Priora was composed of both. The price is higher for EUR, but sometimes it doesn’t work. The electric power steering of the Priora car has an analogue of the AENK-K, but it is 2 times more expensive than the standard power steering of the Lada Priora. With Eur, the steering wheel of a Priora car becomes much lighter. With gur you feel the road. Compared to the Eur, the Priora has more spare parts, is attached to the pentosin liquid, it needs to be monitored, topped up - so that starvation does not occur! The price for replacement also differs depending on the system, the EUR is easier to replace and can be called with a diagnostic connector, so this is the electric motor. Electric power steering (EPS) for Priora comes in two types: geared and gearless - and the first is an outdated technology that was installed on the first Priora - read about it in the article below.

The presence of electric power steering on the Priora has become an indispensable requirement for every car enthusiast. This is justified: once upon a time, the owners of domestic “Zhiguli”, from the first years behind the wheel, learned to turn the steering wheel with both hands with maximum effort. On modern cars, you can turn the steering wheel even on the spot in a snowdrift with one hand, therefore, when choosing a Lada Priora in the cabin, electric power steering was the first mandatory item in the package for many. Later they began to install steering wheel and power steering in all configurations.

Electric power steering is not installed on the Priora in all trim levels - the simplest one has power steering. Knowing the power steering device and being able to “bring it to life” is the direct responsibility of the Priora driver, who loves his car.

Let's sum it up

All faults in the electric booster can be diagnosed independently on a Priora. Of course, you won’t be able to fix all problems yourself, but replacing the device is quite possible using step-by-step instructions.

Sources

https://enginehack.ru/elektricheskij-usilitel-rulya-lady-priory/
https://prometey96.ru/ustrojstvo-avto/elektrousilitel-rulya-vaz.html
https://autocentrum.ru/articles/usilitel-rulya/18770-neispravnosti-elektrousilitelya-rulya-lada-priora-i-sposoby-ih-ustraneniya-shema-i-remont-eur-i-gur.html
https://1ladapriora.ru/remont/ne-rabotaet-eur.html
https://NaDomkrat.ru/ustroistvo-avtomobiley/remont-elektrousilitelya-rulya-i-sposoby-ustraneniya-oshibok-na-lade-priora
https://VAZremont.com/remont-eur-priora
https://vaz.today/remont-elektrousilitelya-rulya-na-priore-svoimi-rukami
https://Vaz-Lada-Granta.com/priora/elektrika/eur-neispravnosti-i-sposoby-ustraneniya.html

Why is it needed and its device

ESD is an electrical mechanism that reduces the control force with which the driver turns the steering wheel. It turns out that this cunning device takes on most of the effort, leaving the driver responsible for the safety of the maneuver. The design of the EUR is as follows:

Electronic control unit and electric motor;

Controller and peripherals

Steering wheel;
Output/input shaft;
Studs, nuts, bolts, etc.;
Bracket;
Steering rack;
Connections;
Steering wheel tilt adjustment lever.

It works like an ordinary electronic mechanism - for example, like a prosthesis: receiving data from sensors about the resistance of the road surface, vehicle speed, crankshaft speed, the force that the driver applies to turning the steering wheel, the “brain”, the electronic control unit, delivers the electric motor to sufficient power to so that the car can be controlled with one finger.

The steering column becomes almost weightless, and does not even give off the vibration familiar to many from prolonged holding in the extreme position.

Disassembling the steering column

For this procedure you need to prepare:

wrench 8 (socket);
at 13 (end);
Phillips screwdriver.

Before starting work, it is important to disconnect the battery. To do this, it is enough to remove the wire from the negative terminal.

remove the steering wheel;
the plastic shields are removed from the column (they are held on by two screws and clamps each);
dismantle the lower part of the lining by unscrewing 4 bolts;
disconnect the wires from the lock and turn signal switch, etc.;
using a 8 key, partially loosen the clamp holding the above-mentioned devices and remove them completely;
pull out the connector terminals of the EUR controller;
remove the plastic cover.

Then all that remains is to unscrew the nuts located at the bottom (it is not necessary to remove them - just loosen them). Here you will need a key for 13. After this, direct access to the electric amplifier will open. It is removed after the bolt holding the joints of the shafts - intermediate, splined - is unscrewed, as well as the nuts securing the motor itself.

Standard electric amplifier - article number and price

On the market you can find geared (outdated) and gearless EPS (electromechanical power steering) for Priora. It is worth concentrating on the second option, there are reasons for this:

Fast request processing: the “intermediary” - the gearbox - disappears - the ECU copes faster with the driver’s commands; More durable. The gear transmission of the gearbox can break at an inconvenient moment, but in a gearless electric power steering system the moment is transmitted directly to the steering rack. The noise level is reduced. The article number of the gearless EUR for the VAZ 2170 Priora is 2172-3450008-02. The price ranges from 20,000 to 25,000 rubles. The cost of a geared EUR is two thousand lower, but is it worth it - to skimp, pay less money, and then deal with frequent breakdowns?

Advantages and disadvantages over power steering

Power steering (power steering) was once the ultimate dream for many, but you had to tinker with it - which only cost the constant addition of working fluid to the reservoir, plus a thrifty attitude towards the mechanism.

Benefits that the owner of a Priora with EUR receives:

More reliable mechanism. It's simple - there is nothing that often breaks (pulleys, hoses) or runs out (liquid). In addition, diagnostic data on faults can be obtained from the ECU. Installation, according to the manufacturer, will take no more than 1.5 hours - with wires everything will be much easier than with connecting hoses. In addition, you don't have to climb into the engine compartment. Passive impact safety Adjustability. Initially, after installation, the force will increase with increasing vehicle speed. This can be changed by reprogramming the data in the ECU - for example, reducing the force from the mechanism with increasing speed. Energy saving. The electric motor inside does not work constantly - it starts only when the driver starts to turn the steering wheel.

It would be wrong to remain silent about the shortcomings:

You don’t “feel” the road - power steering makes the car more sensitive, an experienced driver appreciates this. The EMUR mechanism (electromechanical power steering) is more expensive than power steering. Basic faults

The best plan is to identify the malfunction of the device before starting to move, otherwise a surprise while driving can lead to surprises. It turns out that while driving a person will continue to apply little effort to turning the steering wheel, which is why the car can go straight during the intended turn.

When turning on the ignition, always wait until all the sensor lights come on. The EUR sensor in the form of a steering wheel will also light up. Within two seconds, the electronic control unit diagnoses the entire system; if after this time the sensor does not burn out, the ECU has found a fault.

Not every malfunction of the ECU is reflected on the dashboard:

Shocks in the steering wheel; When the engine is off and when the engine is on, the hand effort is almost the same. As mentioned earlier, the ECU controls everything. Of course, you can find out about any breakdown through the diagnostic connector, to which you can connect yourself. It may produce the following error codes that relate to the EUR:

If the electric power steering on a Priora does not work, and it is not even possible to connect to the diagnostic connector, you can try the old “old-fashioned” method:

Insert the key into the ignition lock. In the eight-pin connector of the control unit, close contacts 6 and 7 (the first one is near the latch, upper right); Turn on the ignition, but do not turn on the engine. In this case, you need to look at the dashboard - at the place where the EMUR icon lights up.

Diagnostics

First of all, it should be noted that a breakdown that occurs with the EUR is determined by the indication on the instrument panel. It has a light bulb with a schematic representation of a steering wheel and an exclamation mark.

Normally, after starting the engine, it lights up for a couple of seconds and then, after self-diagnosis performed by the ECU, goes out when no faults are detected. But when a problem is detected, the indication does not turn off.

Do not forget that the electric amplifier controller communicates peripherally with the vehicle's ECU. Therefore, it is better to identify this kind of breakdown at a service station using a computer.

However, individual devices are currently available for sale to test the functionality of certain electronic components. They are easy to use and are quite inexpensive - up to 1.3 thousand rubles.

Thus, an individual scanner allows you to find out what happened to the car. It should be connected to the ECU - the latter will generate error codes. All related to ESD malfunctions begin with “C”. In particular, C1013 signals that the voltage in the on-board system is too low - this means that it is not enough for the amplifier to operate normally.

According to experts, the most common problems are the following:

breakage, burning or short circuit of the wires supplying the EUR (they are red and black, have a larger cross-section than the others, and are also included in a separate connector);
fuse blown;
low voltage.

In the latter case, you need to check both the battery and the generator.

The decoding is as follows:

1 long 1 short System OK;
1 long 2 short No engine speed signal;
1 long 3 short Torque sensor faulty;
1 long 4 short EMUR motor malfunction;
1 long 5 short Faulty steering shaft position sensor;
1 long 6 short Malfunction of the EMUR engine rotor position sensor;
1 long 7 short Malfunction of the car's electrical system (below 10V or more than 18V);
1 long 8 short Malfunction of the EMUR control unit;
1 long 9 short Vehicle speed sensor malfunction;

Removing and installing electric booster - tools

Even manually diagnosing something with an EUR will be difficult - one way or another, you will have to remove it. To do this, you should prepare and get:

Hammer;
Chisel;
Extension;
Driver (ratchet);
Heads for 8 and 13.

Let's sort it out

Disassemble and remove the steering column. Remove the negative terminal from the battery;
Using the eighth head, remove the contact group;
Disconnect all wiring from the gray metal block. Each wire is under a lock, so handle them carefully, try not to damage the contacts;
Disconnect the steering rack and cardan mounts by removing the bolt. Using a chisel and hammer, loosen the universal joint;
Unscrew the four nuts that secure the amplifier to the body;
Pull out the EUR.

To install the EUR, all steps are performed in reverse order. It is highly recommended that during dismantling you remember (better - take a photo!) the connections of all wires so that the installation goes smoothly the first time.

Hello everyone, there is a problem with the power steering, the car was standing in the cold, warming up, sat down, everything was fine, I arrived at the garage and didn’t turn it off, well, it worked for an hour, then when I turned the steering wheel all the way, there was a click, the power switch turned off, turned it off, started everything back to normal, and so on for a couple of days, then it stopped working altogether! What could it be?

Comments 65

It works flawlessly for me in the summer, but as soon as the cold weather starts, the engine switches off, I give up and drive like this, I don’t have the money to pay 15-16 thousand rubles for it.

Please tell me what happened? I removed the torpedo for the ShVI, put it back, the EUR stopped working, the front is intact, no oxidation chips, also without oxidation, these are the errors

Mine was also buggy, and then completely died. Everything was as in the description, it turned off after a click and turned on when the engine was restarted. And at one point it stopped working completely. I advise you to urgently go to a diagnostician. They say in such cases the steering wheel can become stuck at any moment, God forbid, at speed.

How to replace electric power steering on a Priora

There are cases that after identifying a malfunction, it is impossible to repair the EUR, and all that remains is to replace it. For such a procedure, it is ideal to go to a workshop, but if this is not possible (for example, field conditions), then you can inspect the Priora with your own hands, not only check the condition of the contacts yourself, but also remove them, after which repair the EUR (the connection diagram is similar ).

First of all, free its control unit by removing the steering wheel with the airbag, the casing and the ignition switch.
Take the head “8” and remove the contact group from the shaft.
Disconnect all wiring from the gray EUR Priora control unit (attention, the wire plugs have separate locks, try not to damage them when removing them!).
Find the steering rack and cardan mount, unscrew the bolt and disconnect them.
Using a hammer and chisel, loosen the cardan coupling, then unscrew the fastenings on the amplifier (four nuts).
Carefully remove the unit along the guide.

To connect the power steering, follow the same procedure, only in reverse order.

Repair of electric power steering and ways to eliminate errors on the Lada Priora