How to determine if the thermostat on a Lada Granta is not working

The design and features of the cooling system on Grants (and they exist, and they are significant) are given in the post. The text was written not by an unknown Internet author, but by the plant itself. Overall, it's worth reading. But if you're lazy, I'll tell you the main thing. — The system has become much simpler, but it has not become worse. — The small circle always works and never overlaps — The thermostat has been simplified to the limit. Now there is only one valve - the large circle valve. — An enemy imported thermostat of non-traditional sexual orientation was used

Actually, what am I talking about? My thermostat is broken here. Well, how it broke. Strangely it broke. Not in one moment, not in one day, and not even in one month. Distinct signs appeared only in the fourth year of the car’s life. The opening temperature, previously clearly recorded by the BC, began to smooth out and spread out. If at first it grew vigorously up to 83°C, and then dropped sharply by several degrees (depending on the cold outside), then last winter it began to grow not very vigorously, and after 75-76°C - not at all vigorously . And after opening it moved down somehow blurredly. Slowly she moved down. While I was thinking about the mysterious behavior of the capricious thermostat, which did not fit into any framework of its possible malfunctions, winter was over. The problem has disappeared.

And at the beginning of October I went on vacation to sunny Abkhazia. As you know, the way there lies through the no less sunny Krasnodar Territory. And it so happened that I was in front of Dzhubga early in the morning. The weather was beautiful, and it was +6°C outside. And so, going down to Dzhubga, the BC showed the engine temperature 80...78...72...69...65...63. Dear Mom, the thermostat seriously died - it dawned on me. Something similar was repeated in the Tuapse-Sochi intestines. A clear upper limit - no hint of overheating when driving uphill. And a perfect temperature bottom when driving in engine braking mode from a mountain. Obviously, the thermostat allows fluid to flow into a large circle. Why? Is the valve stuck? Excluded. No overheating when driving uphill. Has the opening temperature mysteriously shifted down? This is against the laws of physics. The valve does not reach the seat, but works fine? Maybe, maybe an autopsy will show...

Upon returning to a completely non-sunny Moscow Region (as we know, the sun is covered by clouds in October and opens in April), at near-zero temperatures, even ten kilometers of driving along the highway was only enough to reach 76-78°C. It became clear that if you do not change the thermostat immediately, you will have to do it in the winter, in the cold. And this is fraught with a runny nose and sore throat.

Buying a thermoelement turned out to be not an easy task. The native one does not exist for sale at all. Luzar, according to the wishes of the workers, released a non-original, but it had to be ordered, and I no longer wanted to delay the replacement. And then I just bought the original thermostat assembly for 1100 rubles. And he did the right thing, by the way. I remind you. Neither the Priorovsky thermostat nor the Priorovsky thermoelement are suitable for us.

I changed it (I’ll tell you how to do this with minimal losses in the second episode) and everything, of course, returned to its original normal. Those. 83°C. Warm.

And here I stand with the thermostat removed in my hands and look at it like a ram at a new gate. The valve is tightly closed. I water it with hot tap water. The valve is closed. I pour boiling water on it - the valve opens vigorously and wide, and when it cools down it completely sits in place. Some kind of miracle. So I would have been playing with boiling water for a long time. And it’s possible that I would have scalded the egg at the end if it weren’t for the thought of blowing into the thermostat. It blew easily! And the poured water flowed out easily.

At this point many will say - author, you are stupid. I had to blow right away. But understand me too. I can clearly see with both eyes that the valve is seated tightly in the seat. It’s not easy to lift it even with a screwdriver - the spring is so strong. Then I halved the thermostat, put the valve in the seat and shined a flashlight on the back side. It glowed along the entire contact plane. And everything became clear.

The saddle is very worn. The valve was also worn out.

This is wear from strong contact stresses. This happens in bearings. It's called pitting. To put it simply, unevenly torn pieces of metal. Pitting in the thermostat? This is some kind of new word in automotive technology, you say. Nothing new. The usual shitty engineering. I don’t know, the plant itself wrote down a resource limitation in the technical specifications for the Korean fascists from Behr. Or they don’t know any other way. I will not lie. But this thermostat is doomed from birth. Structurally doomed. Take a closer look at the width of the saddle. It is less than 1 millimeter. Taking into account the gap between the working diameter of the valve and the well into which it enters, the overlap of the seat by the valve does not exceed half a millimeter on each side. Taking into account the horsepower of the spring, we get the horsepower pressure of the valve on the seat, and we get wear. Immediately after the warranty expires. And in order to sweep aside accidents and cover the ass of Korean scammers, VAZ writes an information letter in which it expands the boundaries of consciousness beyond the edge of the universe - 85+/-8.3°C. Where +8.3 is so that the fawn is not so noticeable, for camouflage. There won't be any plus eight and a half there. There is nowhere for them to come from. But minus eight and a half will definitely be there - just after the warranty expires. When the valve chews itself and the seat.

But we are not fools either. We'll cut the stem and restore the seat. There will be a spare thermostat))

Any car has an engine cooling system, which must maintain the operating temperature of the engine. The main element responsible for the stable temperature of the coolant is the thermostat; it regulates when to pass coolant through the cooling radiator and when to bypass it.

When this element fails, the car engine begins to operate in incorrect temperature conditions, which can lead to its breakdown.

In this article we will talk about the thermostat on a Lada Granta car, signs of its malfunction, methods of checking and replacing it yourself.

What is a thermostat for?

The Granta cooling system has two cooling circles: small and large. The small circle is designed to warm up the engine faster by circulating coolant past the radiator in a small circle. As soon as the car reaches operating temperature, the thermostat opens the path of coolant in a large circle to maintain operating temperature.

The operating temperature of the Lada Granta is 85°C.

The thermostat constantly works to open and close; when the temperature reaches above 85°C, it opens and the pump begins to circulate liquid in a large circle, and so on thousands of times over its entire service life.

Lada 2112 › Logbook › Improving the subsidy thermostat

To begin with, a year ago I received a thermostat under a BEHR grant. I searched for a thermostat from this particular company in my hometown for a long time and finally found it. After installing it, the car began to heat up faster and the heater began to heat up a little better, which is what I really wanted. Having driven with it for the winter, I noticed that with it the car keeps a driving temperature of 77-79, which is very low for the smooth operation of our engine. In the heat of the summer, even in the longest traffic jams, the car did not warm up willingly, which definitely pleased me, but in the end I decided to replace the 92-degree thermocouple. The Wahler 3091.92D thermocouple fits the BEHR housing without modification. The search for this item in my city was unsuccessful... Either the price was higher than the price of a complete thermostat, or the waiting time was more than a month. If I'm not mistaken, I was one of the first to implement the BUBLS-64 concession thermostat, how? and why?))) I also saw an improvement idea from him for people like me who couldn't find a Wahler fuser that would fit without any special modifications. This is a Wahler 3017.92D50 thermocouple. Again, it was nowhere to be found and I was offered a Wahler 3017.92D2 instead. They differ only in the presence or absence of a gasket. To implement it, it is necessary to grind a new plate, because the original one is less than 1 mm and, as a result, does not completely cover the circle and does not maintain a normal temperature. This item was purchased for 550 rubles and given to my dad to make a plate. I’ll say right away that the photos are not mine, because... I did it a month ago and didn’t even think about recording it on a record, so I didn’t take any pictures)) Here is a link to his black and white modification Grant 2190 or even a warmer thermostat.

BEHR Thermostat Assembly

Thermocouple and its plate

After the modification, the stove began to fry, and the consumption decreased by about 1.5 liters. With the help of this element, the moving temperature is maintained at 88-90 degrees. If anyone is interested in what and how, please ask questions)

To cool the power plant in every car today, specialized coolants are used, which make it possible to additionally organize heating of the car interior during the cold season.

Reliable operation of this system is ensured by special devices - thermostats. Their main function is to create conditions for rapid warming up of the engine and maintaining it in the required operating conditions.

Signs of a bad thermostat

A thermostat malfunction is most often discovered when cold weather sets in. One of the main signs will be a long time for the engine to warm up to operating temperature and a rapid drop in temperature when driving along the highway.

In hot weather, the thermostat can jam and constantly circulate fluid in a small circle, which will lead to boiling of the fluid and overheating of the engine, and this is an expensive repair.

• Long warm-up time in cold weather;
• Temperature drop when driving on the highway;
• The stove blows cold air;
• The car overheats and boils;

When to change: signs of thermal switch failure

Abstract symptoms can indicate the nature of the disease that has befallen the thermostat:

• Stuck in the open position (coolant constantly circulates through the radiator). In cold weather, the engine does not heat up well, and at extreme city speeds the coolant temperature drops. Let's say it's -15°C outside, the coolant at idle has warmed up to 70°C, we're driving on a multi-lane road, moving at a speed of 60 km/h, and the temperature gauge needle is either standing still or going down. Fuel consumption increases noticeably (+ 1-2 liters per 100 km).
• The wedge is in the closed position (antifreeze moves along the jacket and heater radiator, bypassing the main heat exchanger). There will be no cooling and overheating is inevitable in summer. The fact is clearly clarified by the thermometer needle running upward when the cooling fan is on. Additionally, the “brains” indicate a problem in the form of an illuminated Check Engine icon.
• Final stop at an intermediate position. Prolonged heating + overheating in hot weather. Slight increase in appetite (within 1 l/100 km).

• It is impossible to close a large circle tightly, while the rod moves and the full opening occurs. There is no wedge. This is prevented by deposits accumulated as a result of untimely change of antifreeze, mixing coolant of different classes (for example, on a Hyundai Solaris, antifreeze can only be mixed with G11), and the use of cheap or counterfeit fluids. The fact can be revealed in warm weather only through tubes. In winter, pollution will be indicated by a reluctant rise in temperature from 70°C to 90-95°C when driving on the highway, but in the city there will be no problems with warming up. Seeing such a picture, those who like to cover the radiator grille with cardboard often persuade the owner to insulate the front end. This is definitely useful in cold weather.

How to check the thermostat

The thermostat can be checked in two ways, but one of the checking methods is quite labor-intensive and is most often abandoned.

First way

To check, the thermostat must be removed. It is also necessary to prepare the tools and materials that will be used for the work.

What you need:

• Kitchen stove or burner;
• Thermometer;
• Container with water;

We immerse the dismantled thermostat in a container of water and boil it on the stove to a temperature of 85°C (a thermometer placed in the water will help determine the temperature). When the temperature reaches 85°C, the thermostat should open completely, but if it opens much earlier, it means it is faulty and must be replaced with a new one.

Second way

To check this method, there is no need to dismantle the thermostat, but the check must be carried out on a cooled engine. We start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature. At the moment when the engine has warmed up to 70°C, you need to touch the large circle pipe (this is the lower radiator hose), it should be cold. If the hose already warms up to 70°C, then it is necessary to change the thermostat, as it is faulty.

general information

There are single-valve, two-stage and two-valve thermostats, as well as electronically controlled devices. Grant is equipped with thermostats Luzar LT0191 and Luzar LT0190 (cost from 450 rubles for the first and from 800 rubles for the second), FENOX TS034E7 (cost from 800 rubles), VAZ-2123 (article 2123-1306010, cost from 650 rubles). It is worth mentioning such devices as GATE VAZ-2101 (article TN14580, cost - from 350 rubles), GATE VAZ-2121 (article TN15380, estimated cost - from 500 rubles), VAZ-2110 (article 21082-1306010, cost - from 600 rubles) and other devices. They are located between the engine and the radiator, but it is definitely worth considering that there are differences in the location of thermostats on Grants with eight- and sixteen-valve engines.

Their main task is to prevent antifreeze from moving through the radiator until the car engine warms up to the required temperatures. As a result, if the car engine does not heat up, the coolant (coolant) does not move in a large circle. Typically, the thermostat is activated when the engine reaches a temperature of 80-95 ° C. Among other things, the thermostat helps reduce the amount of harmful emissions entering the atmosphere and minimize engine wear.

The thermoelement inside the device is made of brass, has a cylindrical shape and is filled with artificial wax. When the engine reaches a temperature of around 82°C, this substance begins to melt, causing it to expand. In this case, the valve is set in motion, opens, after which antifreeze begins to circulate through the car’s radiator. Turning off the engine causes the paraffin wax to harden inside the thermostat and closes the damper.

Below we will talk in more detail about possible malfunctions of thermostats, give instructions for replacing and checking them, and also share a method for refining and updating this part, allowing you to increase its response threshold to 92C.

Replacement

You can replace the thermostat either at a car service station or with your own hands, which will save you several hundred or even thousands of rubles.

To independently replace the thermostat on Grant, you need to prepare tools and materials.

Would need:

• Coolant capacity of 5 or 10 liters;
• Container for draining coolant;
• Thermostat;
• A set of keys;
• Sealant;
• Gasket for thermostat;

Let's get started

Remove the air filter housing and corrugation;

Drain the coolant by unscrewing the plug on the cylinder head block;

Loosen the clamps and remove the pipes suitable for the thermostat;

Remove the thermostat by unscrewing the 2 nuts securing it to the cylinder head;

We install the new thermostat in the reverse order and be sure to replace the gasket under the thermostat with a new one.

Some important tips

Before replacing the element we are interested in, experts advise allowing the engine to cool completely after operation. And after the old thermostat has been removed, you should definitely check the new device for serviceability. This is done like this:

• lower the thermostat into water heated to a temperature of about 80 degrees;
• raise the water temperature by another 10 degrees (you need to stir the liquid);
• observe the “behavior” of the new device: if you notice that the rod begins to extend from the silicone element, this means that the thermostat is operational.

And do not forget to pour liquid into the cooling system (into the reservoir) after finishing the work.

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Maintenance and Repair → Repair →

What is a thermostat and what is it for?

The thermostat (TC) is an automatic device that regulates the temperature of the coolant. The main purpose of the device is to promote rapid heating of the engine and at the same time prevent it from overheating. The coolant (coolant) first circulates through a small ring (ICE jacket - pump) until its temperature reaches 89–92 °C. Then the vehicle opens the valve, directing the coolant flow into the large ring of the cooling system (radiator - heat exchanger - expansion tank).

While the engine is running, the thermostat valve is in constant motion, reducing or increasing the flow of coolant into the second large circuit, depending on the intensity of engine operation and the air temperature outside the car.

Owner reviews

Conclusion

The problem of early activation of the thermostat valve on the Lada Grant (2190) is known. Engineers are constantly looking for a solution. As alternative, effective methods, use the tips outlined at the beginning of the article.

Do not forget that the operating temperature of the engine also depends on the brand of antifreeze (antifreeze), its properties and characteristics, and the type of engine oil.

Often the cause of poor heating is other failures associated with the functioning of the cooling system of the equipment.

Design and principle of operation

On Grants, both with 8 and 16 valve engines, Luzar LT0191 and LT190 thermostats are installed. Their fundamental structure is no different from similar devices on other cars. The vehicle on Grant is a cast brass cylinder with a lid and a side outlet pipe. Its main part is a thermoelement.

It is a copper cylinder filled with special wax (ceresin). As the temperature rises, the wax expands, pushing the stem outward, which in turn rests on the valve seat. When the temperature reaches above 92 °C, the rod fully opens the valve, freeing the passage of coolant into the large circuit through the radiator.

As the coolant heat decreases, the wax in the cylinder will shrink. The return spring will be activated, which will return the rod to its original position and the valve will close.

Carrying out an inspection

The process of controlling the thermostat is a relatively simple procedure. To begin, the removed thermostat cylinder is lowered into a transparent container into which the coolant has previously been poured. Subsequently, this container is heated, periodically stirring the coolant and monitoring with a thermometer the moment when the cylinder rod begins to move. When the coolant reaches a temperature of 85 C (± 2 C), the rod of a fully operational device will begin to extend. When the liquid in the container reaches 100°C (±2°C), it will come out completely.

Installation location of the Grant thermostat

The location of the vehicle may be slightly different in Grant cars with 8 and 16 valve engines. The device is located on the side of the cylinder block. It is attached with its seat to the outlet hole of the engine jacket through a gasket. The device is secured with three nuts on studs installed in the body of the motor housing.

How to replace a LADA “Granta” thermostat with 8 and 16 valves

The Granta thermostat is a key part of the engine cooling system. ensuring the optimal temperature of the coolant and the power unit itself. Thermostat malfunctions can lead to overheating and breakdown of the car engine, so it is advisable for owners to know how to check and replace the LADA Granta thermostat.

Features of the LADA Granta cooling system

As in previous LADA models, upon reaching a certain temperature, the thermostat switches the coolant flow from a small to a large circuit. The small circuit includes:

• cylinder water jacket;
• water pump;
• interior heater.

The difference is that the heater radiator is connected to a small circuit in series and not in parallel. This forces all the coolant to pass through it, improving the heating of the cabin. The thermostat opening temperature is 85 degrees. Upon reaching this mark, the valve opens and the liquid begins to circulate through a large circuit into which.

In addition to the small circuit elements, a cooling radiator is included. The advantage of the modernized cooling system is that antifreeze from the engine jacket falls directly onto the thermostat thermocouple without mixing in its housing. This allows the element to respond to the actual engine temperature, opening on time and preventing overheating.

The manufacturer has set the permissible thermostat opening range to 85–7 degrees. That is, it can open at both 78 and 93 degrees.

According to the official letter from the manufacturer, sent to dealers, the operating temperature of the Grant engine may be 10 degrees lower than that of previous VAZ models. This does not mean that the engine is “underheated” and does not lead to an increase in fuel consumption, deterioration of lubrication and a decrease in engine life.

However, owners of the LADA Grant often change the thermostat to a new one, with an opening temperature closer to 90 degrees, or modify the standard thermostat by changing the thermal element.

When is it necessary to replace the LADA Granta thermostat?

The thermostat should be changed if it does not close a large circuit even when the engine is hot or opens at temperatures above 92 degrees. In the first case, the engine does not warm up enough, which impairs the combustion of the air-fuel mixture and the circulation of oil through the oil channels.

When opening late, at best, the cooling fan often turns on; at worst, the crankshaft bearings fail or the engine head becomes deformed, which requires complex, expensive repairs.

The design of the LADA Granta thermostat does not provide for its repair, so the failed part must be replaced with a new one.

You can verify that the thermostat is working without removing it from the car by feeling the temperature of the pipes of the large cooling circuit or the bottom of the radiator. They should be cold until the engine reaches operating temperature. After the engine warms up, the thermostat opens and the elements of the large circuit should heat up.

How to check Grant's thermostat

There may come a time when the vehicle stops functioning normally and phenomena such as:

• a significant increase in the warm-up time of the internal combustion engine;
• rapid boiling of the coolant after reaching a temperature of 92 °C;
• excessive fuel consumption;
• The engine does not warm up to the required temperature in winter.

In this situation, you need to know how to check the thermostat. This can be done in three ways.

1. Tactile method
2. Visual control
3. Laboratory test

Tactile method

The engine is warmed up until the sensor readings on the instrument panel reach the desired value. Raise the hood and feel the lower radiator outlet pipe with your hand. If the device is working properly, the hose will be hot. However, the method does not provide a complete picture of the performance of the vehicle.

Visual control

The device is removed from the car and placed in a container, suspended in water. The movement of the valve will be visually visible. When the water boils, the seat will lower, revealing the hole. During cooling, the valve will, on the contrary, rise and close the passage.

Laboratory test

The thermostat is also placed in an aqueous environment, but rested on a solid base. A tripod with a dial indicator is connected to the vessel with water, the rod of which will rest rigidly on the upper valve of the vehicle. When the water is heated, the indicator readings are recorded. But this method is quite difficult to implement in a garage, so Lada Granta drivers rarely use it.

Tips for repairing a temperature control device are often published on the Internet. But this should not be done due to the fact that the device cannot be fully restored. It is best to buy and install a new thermostat on Grant.

Revision option

As evidenced by reviews from grant owners, the manufacturer supplies this model with a rather weak thermostat. Usually it opens access to antifreeze after the engine warms up to 80 radii. This is due to low-quality wax inserts, which we described above.

In most cases, such a problem is not perceived as something serious, since it does not harm the operation of the engine in any way. The only drawback is that in winter, when there is frost, the interior can be cool. The situation becomes more complicated if the owner of the car switches to gas.

In this case, it makes sense to modify the thermostat so that it opens at 92 degrees. To do this you will need to purchase a new one. The entire element does not need to be replaced, so only the insert is taken out of the purchased one.

Experts advise choosing the model – VERNET TH4898.92D. Its cost is low - approximately 400 rubles.

The step-by-step replacement procedure is as follows:

• first of all, the car is driven onto a ramp or pit;
• drain antifreeze from the cooling system;
• remove the air duct because it is in the way;
• the thermostat itself is dismantled (but you can leave it in place and only remove the cover from it, the main thing is not to lose the seal);
• the old thermocouple is removed and a new one is inserted;
• they press it with the original spring and limiter.

On average, the response temperature after such a procedure increases by 15 percent.

The whole process is recorded in this video:

All cars whose engines are cooled by a special liquid have at their disposal a device called a thermostat. Lada Granta is no exception.

In the Grant model, the thermostat is located between the radiator and the engine. In the article we will talk about the concept of a car thermostat, what components it consists of and how it functions, and also consider the main types of thermostat malfunctions.

The thermostat is called the antifreeze (antifreeze) temperature regulator in the engine cooling system. It increases the engine warm-up rate and maintains the required thermal state.

The key job of the thermostat is to hold back the flow of radiator fluid until the engine has warmed up. If the engine remains cold, the coolant does not pass through it to the radiator.

The thermostat opens when the engine temperature reaches 95 degrees. Thanks to its operation, the engine warms up faster. Thus, in the Lada Granta, the thermostat reduces the amount of harmful emissions and reduces engine wear to a minimum.

If desired, you can clearly see the operation of the thermostat at home. Place the thermostat in a container filled with water, then place it on the electric stove. As the moment of boiling water approaches, the thermostat valve will open approximately 2 cm. It is recommended to experiment with a new thermostat without removing yours from your own car.

Replacing the Grant thermostat

Over time, the device may exhaust its service life, and the valve will not operate correctly. The coolant will not be able to circulate in a large circuit and pass through the radiator. The liquid, remaining in the engine jacket, will quickly heat up and boil. In another case, the valve freezes in the open position, and the liquid constantly flows through a large circuit. The engine will take a long time to warm up. At the same time, fuel consumption will increase sharply. This is especially noticeable in cold weather. The car will need urgent thermostat replacement.

Design features of the LADA Granta engine cooling system

The LADA Granta engine cooling system is liquid (with forced circulation of liquid), sealed, with an expansion tank.
The system is filled with ethylene glycol-based coolant (antifreeze), which does not freeze at ambient temperatures down to -40 'C. The design of the cooling system of all engines installed on Lada Granta cars is fundamentally the same and is described using the example of a car with a VAZ-21116 engine.

Location of elements of the LADA Granta cooling system:

water pump provides forced circulation of fluid in the cooling system of the Lada Granta, is installed on the front plane of the cylinder block and is driven by a timing belt. The pump has sealed bearings that do not require replenishment of lubricant. The pump cannot be repaired; if it fails (liquid leakage or bearing damage), it is replaced as an assembly.

A thermostat with a solid heat-sensitive filler maintains normal operating coolant temperature and reduces engine warm-up time. The Lada Granta thermostat has a main and additional bypass valve. At a coolant temperature of up to (85±2) °C, the thermostat is completely closed and the liquid circulates through a small circuit, bypassing the radiator, which speeds up engine warming up. At temperatures above 85 C, the thermostat begins to open, and at 102 ° C it opens completely, allowing fluid to circulate through the radiator. An electric fan with a plastic impeller ensures that the radiator is purged with air at low vehicle speeds, mainly in urban conditions or on mountain roads, when the oncoming air flow is not enough to cool the radiator. To increase operating efficiency, the fan is installed in casing 7 and attached to it at three points through rubber pads. The casing, in turn, is attached to radiator 3 at four points. The electric fan is controlled by the engine control unit, which receives information about the coolant temperature from sensor 5 (see Fig. 1), located in thermostat socket 4.

The radiator is tubular-plate, aluminum, with plastic tanks, two-way, with a partition in the left tank. At the bottom right there is a drain plug 6. The tanks contain inlet and outlet hose pipes to the engine water jacket, as well as a hose pipe connecting the radiator to the expansion tank.

The expansion tank serves to compensate for the changing volume of coolant depending on its temperature. The tank is made of translucent plastic. The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are applied to its walls to control the coolant level; on top there is a filler neck, hermetically sealed with a plastic plug 1 with two valves inside (inlet and outlet), assembled in a single block. The exhaust valve opens at a pressure of 110 kPa (1.1 kgf/cm2), ensuring an increase in the boiling point of the coolant and preventing intense vaporization. When a liquid cools, its volume decreases and a vacuum is created in the system. The inlet valve in the plug opens at a vacuum of about 3 kPa (0.03 kgf/cm*) and allows air into the expansion tank.

Start.

Since the beginning of the purchase of Grants, when driving at speed, the engine temperature remained 79-80 degrees all the time. Sometimes it even showed a value of 78 g. True, only for a few seconds. Many grant providers confirm such a constantly low temperature of the thermostat.

This temperature is really too low. Fuel consumption at a constantly lowered operating temperature of the engine will be slightly higher than normal: for example, the on-board computer will consider that the engine is not warm enough and the fuel mixture needs to be richer. This is not very critical for the engine, but for its normal efficient operation a higher constant temperature regime is required. And it’s better, of course, without such significant surges as constant temperature changes over a fairly large amplitude: in fact, from 79 to 102 degrees. In a traffic jam, with full warm-up, the temperature constantly exceeded a hundred. And only at 102 degrees did the radiator cooling fan turn on, which turned off at 98 degrees. And so on in a circle until we accelerate: 102 - 98, 102 - 98.

So. On Grant, an 85-degree thermoelement is installed in the thermostat housing from the factory, with characteristic longitudinal recesses along the body.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — “Behr Thermot-tronik GmbH (BTT) is a wholly owned subsidiary of MAHLE Behr GmbH & Co. KG, and within the group MAHLE is a division dealing with thermostats and valves.”

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the thermostat on a Lada Granta

Before starting work, you need to prepare a tool: a TORX T30 wrench, a 13mm socket and a Phillips screwdriver. After this, proceed as follows.

1. The car is placed on a level area with the engine cooled down. Raise the hood cover.
2. Remove the plug from the expansion tank.
3. Remove the plug from the bottom of the radiator and drain the coolant into a clean container. The plug is screwed back in.
4. Disconnect the connector with wires from the coolant temperature sensor.
5. Use a Phillips screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps.
6. The hoses are removed from the thermostat pipes.
7. Unscrew the nut securing the wire shorted to ground on the upper stud of the vehicle body.
8. Remove the nuts and washers from the remaining two studs.
9. The thermostat is pulled off the studs.
10. Remove the old gasket from the engine seat and install a new gasket.
11. To ensure a good fit, the gasket can be lubricated with engine oil or a thin layer of sealant applied to it on both sides.
12. The new thermostat is installed in the seat by threading the pins through the holes in the beads of the vehicle body.
13. Put on the washers and the tip of the ground wire.
14. The nuts are tightened with a wrench on studs.
15. The vehicle pipes are lubricated with engine oil.
16. Put on the hoses and secure them with clamps.
17. Having unscrewed the top radiator cap, fill in coolant until the level in the expansion tank is between o and “max”. The plug is screwed back in.
18. Start the engine and check that there are no coolant leaks in all connections of the cooling system.
19. Once the operating temperature is reached, screw in the expansion tank cap. Previously, this is not done so that air pockets leave the system.

Sequencing

1. We place the car within the perimeter of the repair area.
2. Loosen the clamp of the air supply pipe (Phillips screwdriver).
3. Remove the mass air flow sensor (MAF).
4. We unscrew the expansion tank cap and remove the vacuum.
5. We unscrew the three clamps on the cooling system distributor and pour the waste into a plastic container (about 3 liters).

Preparatory processes before installation

Note to the driver! If the drained antifreeze is free of sediment, it can be reused later. Otherwise, replace the entire cooling system fluid.

1. We press the block with wires from the engine control unit, disconnect the temperature sensor terminal.
2. Using a key set to “13”, unscrew the negative terminal and remove it from the regulator body.

What is it and how does it work

As you understand, the thermostat is a component of the cooling system of a car engine.

In short, the task of this element is to open and close the path for the movement of fluid that flows through a small or large circle.

The operation of the device is based on a physical phenomenon. Namely, on the expansion of the liquid when it is heated. The thermostat has a rather simple device, although in fact it is a sensor and an actuator in one bottle. It consists of a cylinder which is filled with a waxy liquid, powdered copper, aluminum and graphite. There is also a rod located inside the cylinder and a pair of spring-loaded valves. One valve is for the main (large) one, and the second is for the small circle of circulation of the cooling liquid.

During operation, this element is constantly exposed to the liquid that washes it. Heat is transferred to the contents of the cylinder.

When heating occurs, the wax in the cylinder expands, the rod is squeezed out along with the valve, marking the small circle. Thus, the small circulation circle is blocked, and the liquid begins to pass through the engine radiator, and not just through the stove radiator.

LADA 110 and Priora

1 — heater radiator; 2 — coolant drain hose from the heater radiator; 3 — coolant supply hose to the heater radiator; 4 — coolant pump hose; 5 — expansion tank hose; 6 — steam removal hose of the heater radiator; 7 - expansion tank; 8 — liquid level sensor in the expansion tank; 9 — thermostat; 10 — coolant drain hose from the engine radiator; 11 liquid supply hose to the throttle assembly; 12 — steam exhaust hose of the engine radiator; 13 — hose for supplying fluid to the engine radiator; 14 — engine radiator; 15 — radiator drain plug; 16 — electric engine radiator fan; 17 — coolant pump; 18 — supply pipe to the coolant pump; 19 — coolant drain hose from the throttle body

On the old 110, a thermostat 2110-1306010 (“three-hole”) was installed.

The Priora and the new 110 use a thermostat 21082-1306010-10 (“six-hole”) with its classic circuit, similar to the Samara of the latest releases.

On newer models (FL), a system based on the 2190 thermostat is also installed.

There is an additional steam removal hose leading from the heater to the expansion tank.

Where is it located

There are many options for what will happen if the thermostat is constantly open on a large or small circle. This will lead to overheating, antifreeze may be released from the expansion tank, the normal pressure in the cooling system will change, and more.

This unit cannot be allowed to malfunction. It is used on all machines:

• on Kalina;
• on Priora;
• VAZ 2114;
• VAZ Classic;
• Ford Focus;
• VAZ 2110;
• Chevrolet Aveo;
• Gazelle Next;
• VAZ 2107;
• Lada Granta;
• Renault Logan, etc.

To check the serviceability of this element on a car, as well as to detect signs of a dying thermostat, you need to at least roughly understand where it is located.

I can't say it's difficult to do.

It is objectively correct to immediately look at the instruction manual. In the section where the cooling system is described, the location of the required element must be indicated.

At the same time, there is a fairly universal search method that is relevant for almost all domestic cars and many foreign cars.

To find a thermostat you need to do the following:

• open the hood;
• find the thickest pipe;
• this will be the radiator hose;
• it goes from the radiator to the engine;
• the second end of this pipe is connected to the thermostat;
• get to the second end;
• determine the location of the thermostat housing;
• start removing it.

Although I still advise you to first look at the manual, and only then start searching, dismantling and repair work.

Checking at home

Sometimes the electric motor turns on too late, when the antifreeze temperature is already high. This may be caused by a malfunction of the valve in the radiator cap or abnormal parameters of the switch on sensor. You can check the device’s response temperature at home using a multimeter and thermometer.

After disconnecting the electrical connector, the sensor is unscrewed with a key. To avoid burns, remove the device only from a cold engine, after draining the antifreeze. When reinstalling, it is advisable to use a new sealing copper washer and not apply too much force when tightening.

The switching temperature is engraved on the end; it can be from 92 to 95 degrees. To check, you need to connect the multimeter in resistance measurement mode and immerse the threaded part in a container of water.

While heating the water and monitoring the readings of the multimeter, we use a thermometer to record the moment it turns on, and when it cools down, the temperature it turns off. Standardly, these are 92 and 87 degrees; with significant deviations, late operation is especially critical, the device requires replacement.

To improve cooling, it is possible to install a double fan from Niva. There are two modifications for placement: after the radiator or in front of it.

On the VAZ 2110, any of the options can be installed with minimal modifications to the fasteners on site. When electric motors are connected in parallel, the current consumption increases to 40 amperes, which requires replacement of the wiring.

Monitor the engine temperature. If you notice overheating too late, then in addition to boiling of the antifreeze and a forced stop, more serious consequences are possible: deformation of the cylinder head, jamming of the camshaft. If there are defects in the operation of the cooling system fan of the VAZ 2110, the faults can be diagnosed independently by checking the thermostat, electric motor, relay, and switch sensor.

Sources

• https://aveni-r.ru/datchik-temperatury-vaz-21083-skhema.html
• https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/ohlazhdenie/datchik-vklyucheniya-ventilyatora.html

Signs of trouble

From what was said earlier, we can conclude that the thermostat is responsible for opening the small and large circle of circulation of the cooling liquid, which is ready-made antifreeze or antifreeze concentrate diluted with your own hands.

When starting a cold internal combustion engine, a small circle operates, which helps to warm up the engine and the interior heater faster. Having reached a certain temperature, the sensor is triggered and the system switches to a large circle, transferring engine heat to the internal combustion engine radiator. This prevents the motor from overheating. If the system jams and circulates fluid in a small circle, the engine will inevitably overheat and a number of other ensuing consequences will occur. That is, such situations cannot be allowed to arise.

If the thermostat fails, two main situations may occur.

In the first case, the thermostat switches the cooling system so that a large circulation circle is closed. As a result, the engine gets hot and the gauges on the dashboard go off scale. The motor may jam and related systems and components may fail.

The second situation is somewhat different. Here the thermostat is already stuck in the open position.

In this position, the coolant will constantly flow through a large circuit, affecting the radiator. If it is warm outside, this will not cause any significant problems for the car or the driver himself. So this is less of a reason to panic. But in winter, you will quickly notice that the thermostat is faulty. In cold weather, a power unit with a faulty coolant sensor will slowly warm up, fuel consumption will increase, the heater will not function properly, and the cabin will feel cold.

If you notice that the engine is overheating, or the interior is cold and the heater is not working, this largely indicates problems with an element such as the thermostat.

Machine operation when the thermostat is not working

If a car uses a non-working thermostat, this will lead to a decrease in the life of the internal combustion engine. It is easiest to eliminate the causes at the initial stages because it is a less expensive solution. In the later stages of operation, the driver has to treat the consequences and spend a lot more money.

When the thermostat is faulty in the small circle, circulation occurs in the large circle. Since the internal combustion engine warms up much longer, the oil does not have time to heat up during most of the work and acquire the optimal viscosity for the operation of the internal combustion engine.

If it is clear that the thermostat does not work in principle, then the engine will quickly heat up and exceed the normal temperature level. Overheating the engine reduces its operating time.

It is necessary to understand the consequences of operating a car and a non-functioning thermostat. And the breakdowns can be very serious - this is a breakdown of the internal combustion engine. At best, you will have to do a major overhaul, or at worst, look for a new engine. Of course, you can purchase a contract one from another car, but the cost is not budgetary, since the engine is the heart of the car.

Granta thermostat in Kalina or we wanted the best, but it turned out good as always.

Hello everyone. Same thing. The engine cooling system (ECS) of the first generation Kalina, to put it mildly, has not been finalized. Due to the slope of the upper radiator pipe, the small circle of the radiator will constantly air as a result of air being sucked into it as the coolant cools. Dancing with the RB cork makes the engineering calculation a little easier, but in winter the cork freezes over and stops working. And in the most severe frost we receive a gift: cold air blows from the stove, the engine overheats, a fountain of coolant comes from the engine... And if there is an electric boiler, the outlet of which is cut into the upper radiator pipe, then an air lock is guaranteed. Everything is aggravated by the extremely short service life of the thermostat. My factory Pramo stopped opening after 20 thousand mileage, Luzar lasted a little more than 25 thousand. For myself, I found a solution in installing a forced steam exhaust tube with a ball valve that connected the remote control heating hose with the radiator steam exhaust hose and not tightening the RB plug.

thermostat. Replacing the thermostat on a Lada Granta yourself. how to replace the thermostat yourself video 2020

Even if the SOD had aired out, the air lock was easily expelled by opening the tap. Without a tap, the coolant constantly presses into the RB and it overflows. And so a traffic jam appeared, I opened it and closed it and everything was fine. So I drove until Luzar began to close. Partly due to the need to replace it, the decision was made to install Grantothermos. Besides everything, I was attracted by the fact that the small circle of SOD goes completely through the stove and it is logical that the car should warm up faster. I have enough experience installing on Drive. I decided to take the simplest route: inserting an S-shaped pipe from Shniva between the lower radiator pipe and the pump pipe. The pipes were connected with a piece of water pipe. Although they are of different diameters, they worked out fine with the sealant. The thermostat was initially left with its original thermal insert.

I installed it in June, it was expected to be hot. That’s why I didn’t dare install the Wahler insert. The pins came out easily. And just as easily the studs from the camshaft bed of the classic were screwed in. The engine is 8- valve , the temperature sensor did not have to be changed.

The electrical heating output connected to the thermostat output on the stove. I needed a 16 meter hose.

To the heap, at the place where the mass was attached, I replaced the black washers that do not conduct electricity with normal ones. I installed it and drove it for the summer. What I liked was the lack of air locks. They didn't appear again. But the temperature on the highway also dropped to 80 degrees... Cold days came and it became extremely inconvenient to wait for the engine to heat up above 80. I had to install a Wahler insert.

At one point I tried to drain the coolant with a compressor. This was enough to replace the thermostat.

the thermostat to the head without a gasket, just with sealant. I really liked the gray Abrovsky sealant.

What do we end up with? There is no accelerated warm-up. It’s the same with Kalina and with Grant’s thermos. Air locks? Yes, with the grantothermos they were gone. But with a Kalina thermos, the engine temperature remains more stable. On the grantothermos, either with the original insert or with the Wakhlerovskaya one, the temperature goes up and down. Well, I’ve never had this happen with a properly working heating thermos. It consistently held 90 degrees in both heat and cold. I hope that the service life of the German insert will be higher than that of Kalina thermostats. Is it worth switching to grantothermos? Behr thermos - 700 rubles, Wahler insert from 450 rubles, pipe hoses... Kalina thermostat - 500 rubles. if only you take the lid. That's all she needs. So you’ll think about whether it’s worth doing such modifications. There is no super effect and there never will be. If the Kalina thermostat is working properly, there is no point in switching to the Grant thermostat. I don’t regret that I switched, but I have drawn conclusions.

Addition from 10/14/15. I traveled with a new thermoelement. The temperature was controlled via a Bluetooth adapter by the phone. It stays stable at 92-89 degrees when driving, when standing in traffic for a long time it heats up to 100, then the fan knocks it down to 95. It was 8 outside. The oven cooks great. There are no air locks. But the temperature indicator sensor began to drizzle: the arrow on the tidy jumps back and forth from 90 to 110. This has nothing to do with the thermostat, either the sensor or the mass. Update from 01/09/16 In cold weather. 30 whether in the city or on the highway, a grantothermos with an insert Wahler showed his best side. On the highway, the radiator still had to be covered with cardboard, but the temperature remained stable around 90 degrees. Regarding the quick warming up of the internal combustion engine, I will say that there is no noticeably faster warming up than on the Kalina. And most importantly, despite the frost and leaking heater pipes, there is no air in the SOD!

READ What is the difference between LADA Granta and Priora

Which thermostat is better to install on the VAZ-2114

The difficulty in choosing a thermostat specifically for the VAZ-2114, and for any VAZ, is not even that we will not know its model. There are no problems in this regard; both the model and the valve response temperature are stamped on the bottom of the device. The problem is different - each of the manufacturers, and there are more than two dozen of them, supplies devices of completely different quality. They differ both in response temperature and resource.

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Practice shows that the average thermostat must travel at least 120-150 thousand km before it goes on its final journey to scrap.

The difference is palpable, as is the difference in quality. The public trusts more the native VAZ devices, which honestly work well over a hundred thousand.

Good luck with your choice and stable temperatures!

We choose which thermostat is better to install on the injection 8 valve VAZ-2114

The engine temperature affects not only the temperature of the heater, and this, unfortunately, is what worries the owners of Togliatti cars primarily. This does not speak of their shortsightedness, but of the imperfection of the heater, but today we are not talking about it. The temperature regime of the engine depends on one simple but very important device called a thermostat. When we learn more about the modifications of VAZ devices, the question of which thermostat is better to install on the injection VAZ-2114 will automatically disappear.