➤ replacing the thermostat on a grant 8 valve system

If the car engine overheats or the antifreeze temperature does not reach operating temperature, the thermostat may be a possible cause of these malfunctions. There is no difference when replacing the thermostat on Lada cars (Granta, Kalina, Priora, Vesta, Largus, Niva or XRAY) with 8 and 16 valve engines, all actions are performed in the same way.

You will need : drain the coolant, prepare a flathead screwdriver, a Phillips screwdriver, a set of wrenches and silicone sealant.

Procedure:

Remove the engine air filter housing by disconnecting the hose and the connector with the MAF wires.
Loosen all thermostat hose clamps (their number may vary depending on the thermostat model).
Remove the thermostat assembly by unscrewing the two screws securing it and removing the ground connector and the connector with wires from the temperature sensor.

The thermostat is installed in the reverse order, after first cleaning the seat from dirt and applying sealant. The whole process is also shown in the video:

Let us remind you that it is better to check it before installing the thermostat. If this is not the problem, check the cooling system according to the diagram.

As you know, modern cars use a special liquid to cool the power plant. The versatility of this option allows you to simultaneously provide interior heating in winter.

In order for this system to work properly, a special device called a thermostat is also installed in it. In another way, it is also called a coolant temperature regulator. One of its functions is to help the engine warm up as quickly as possible and maintain it in the required condition.

In this article we will talk about how the thermostat of a Grant car is converted to a higher response threshold (92 degrees). In addition, we will tell you about the principle of operation of this device and about possible problems that arise in it.

What he really is?

This is a part that plays a big role in the supply of coolant so that the engine does not overheat and its main function is not impaired. During the cold season, due to external factors, the surface of the machine is cooled to very low levels. The thermostat comes to the rescue: it normalizes it, closing the valve flap and allowing the temperature to rise to the designated level.

The 8-valve Lada Kalina is equipped with a coolant controller, which is not electronic. The unit operates on the laws of physics. These conditions simplify the task for car enthusiasts, because not all car owners understand the principle of operation of the electronics in the car.

It is easy to understand the functionality and operation of the device - inside there is a heat-sensitive part that is triggered when heated, gradually starting to melt. This process provokes the opening of the valve flap, through which the coolant enters the large circle.

Thermostat structure and operating conditions

The thermostat contains metals such as copper and brass alloy. The essence of the device's operation lies in a small cylinder turned towards the engine.

In the middle of the cylinder there is a synthetic wax ball, which at a certain temperature (82 degrees Celsius) begins to melt (the wax expands significantly under the influence of heat, changing its solid state to a liquid).

A special pin is pressed into the wax cylinder and is connected to a valve. When the wax melts, as a result of expansion, it begins to squeeze the pin out of the cylinder, while opening the valve through which coolant flows. When the engine stops and cools, the wax in the thermostat hardens and returns to its solid state.

Replacing the thermostat VAZ-2107

First, the antifreeze is drained from the cooled engine. Using a slotted screwdriver with a thin blade or pliers, loosen the clamp securing the hose supplying antifreeze from the radiator to the thermostat pipe. Disconnect this hose.

Use a Phillips screwdriver or an 8 mm socket wrench to loosen the clamps securing the hoses to the pipes of the cylinder block and pump. Remove the thermostat along with the hoses.

Disconnect the hoses from the thermostat pipes and put them on the new thermostat. Instead of the tape clamps that were on the hoses, they put on worm-drive clamps without tightening them.

The lower pipe of the thermostat is connected to the hose from the radiator. Connect the remaining hoses. All clamps are tightened. Fill in coolant. Start the engine and check for antifreeze leaks and the operation of the new thermostat.

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Replacement process

The process of replacing the thermostat is simple and will not take much time, but the result will not be long in coming.

What is needed for replacement:

Grant thermostat
Gasket between thermostat and block
Sealant
Coolant
Lower radiator pipe Grant
Tee for stove VAZ 2108
New clamps (it is best to use spring clamps)
Two M8x80 studs (or a bolt of the same diameter and length)

Installation process:

We prepare the car, remove the air filter box along with the corrugation and mass air flow sensor, and drain the antifreeze.

Then we remove the old thermostat.

If the Priora has a mechanical throttle, then we turn off the hoses going to heat it using an M8 bolt and a clamp. If the throttle is electronic, you don't need to do anything.

We install new studs in the thermostat mounting points.

Changing the lower radiator hose from the standard one to the Grant one

We install the new thermostat, first placing the gasket on the studs.

We connect the hoses according to the diagram

Grant thermostat connection diagram

The inlet pipe to the heater radiator is connected from the thermostat, and the radiator outlet pipe is connected to the pump pipe.

The outlet pipe is cut and a tee is inserted into it through which the expansion tank will be connected

We unscrew the coolant temperature sensor from the old thermostat and install it in the new one.

Filling with coolant

Then we start the engine and monitor the coolant level as the temperature increases, the liquid will decrease, do not forget to add coolant to the level until it stops decreasing.

Purpose of the thermostat on the VAZ 2106

The thermostat must control the degree of heating of the coolant and react in a timely manner when the antifreeze temperature becomes too high or, conversely, too low.

The device can direct coolant through either a small or large cooling circle, thereby preventing the engine from overheating, or, conversely, helping it quickly warm up after a long period of inactivity. All this makes the thermostat the most important element of the VAZ 2106 cooling system.

Thermostat location

The thermostat in the VAZ 2106 is located to the right of the engine, where the pipes for discharging coolant from the main radiator are located. To see the thermostat, simply open the hood of the car. The convenient location of this part is a big plus when it becomes necessary to replace it.

Principle of operation

As mentioned above, the main task of the thermostat is to maintain the engine temperature within specified limits. When the engine needs to warm up, the thermostat blocks the main radiator until the engine reaches the optimal temperature. This simple measure can significantly extend the life of the engine and reduce wear on its components. The thermostat has a master valve. When the coolant reaches a temperature of 70 °C, the valve opens (it should be noted here that the opening temperature of the main valve can be higher - up to 90 °C, and this depends both on the design of the thermostat and on the thermal filler that is in it used).

The second important element of the thermostat is a special compression cylinder made of brass, inside of which there is a small piece of technical wax. When the antifreeze in the system reaches 80 °C, the wax in the cylinder melts. As it expands, it presses on the long rod connected to the main thermostat valve. The rod extends from the cylinder and opens the valve. And when the antifreeze cools, the wax in the cylinder begins to harden, and its expansion coefficient decreases. As a result, the pressure on the rod weakens and the thermostatic valve closes.

By opening the valve here we mean moving its leaf by only 0.1 mm. This is the initial opening value, which consistently increases by 0.1 mm as the antifreeze temperature rises by two to three degrees. When the coolant temperature rises by 20 °C, the thermostat valve opens fully. The full opening temperature can vary from 90 to 102 °C depending on the manufacturer and design of the thermostat.

Thermostat structure and operating conditions

Features of checking and replacing spark plugs on the Lada Granta

The thermostat contains metals such as copper and brass alloy. The essence of the device's operation lies in a small cylinder turned towards the engine.

Checking at home

Sometimes the electric motor turns on too late, when the antifreeze temperature is already high. This may be caused by a malfunction of the valve in the radiator cap or abnormal parameters of the switch on sensor. You can check the device’s response temperature at home using a multimeter and thermometer.

After disconnecting the electrical connector, the sensor is unscrewed with a key. To avoid burns, remove the device only from a cold engine, after draining the antifreeze. When reinstalling, it is advisable to use a new sealing copper washer and not apply too much force when tightening.

The switching temperature is engraved on the end; it can be from 92 to 95 degrees. To check, you need to connect the multimeter in resistance measurement mode and immerse the threaded part in a container of water.

While heating the water and monitoring the readings of the multimeter, we use a thermometer to record the moment it turns on, and when it cools down, the temperature it turns off. Standardly, these are 92 and 87 degrees; with significant deviations, late operation is especially critical, the device requires replacement.

To improve cooling, it is possible to install a double fan from Niva. There are two modifications for placement: after the radiator or in front of it.

On the VAZ 2110, any of the options can be installed with minimal modifications to the fasteners on site. When electric motors are connected in parallel, the current consumption increases to 40 amperes, which requires replacement of the wiring.

Monitor the engine temperature. If you notice overheating too late, then in addition to boiling of the antifreeze and a forced stop, more serious consequences are possible: deformation of the cylinder head, jamming of the camshaft. If there are defects in the operation of the cooling system fan of the VAZ 2110, the faults can be diagnosed independently by checking the thermostat, electric motor, relay, and switch sensor.

Sources

https://aveni-r.ru/datchik-temperatury-vaz-21083-skhema.html
https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/ohlazhdenie/datchik-vklyucheniya-ventilyatora.html

How does it work

Specifically in Grant, the thermostat is located between the power plant and the radiator. The main task of the unit in question is to prevent the circulation of antifreeze until the engine warms up to the required temperature. If the engine remains cold, the coolant does not move.

Ideally, the thermostat operates after the temperature of the power plant reaches 80-95 degrees. All this allows, among other things, to reduce the volume of emissions harmful to the environment and minimize engine wear.

By the way, checking the functionality of the thermostat is relatively easy. It must be placed in a container with boiling water. If the element is working properly, its valve will open approximately 20 millimeters.

Lada 2107 Uzi › Logbook › Replacing the thermostat and cooling system pipes

Hi all. I actually wanted to replace the pipes in a couple of months at least.

It started with the fact that charging began to go poorly. It goes, then the arrow falls on the white one. Last Sunday I decided to climb in and change the brushes (for some reason I was sure that they were).

I went out on the bark, removed the battery, I looked, and the generator was wet. I touch the pre-start boiler, and antifreeze runs through it. I wasn't even upset, seriously.

I started looking for where in NSC, on Sunday, at 4 o’clock in the afternoon, I could get silicone pipes.

I visited all the stores in the area. Either to order, or simply not.

I remembered that I recently came across a store where there were different tuners for jigs. I called. -Eat? -Eat! I got ready and went. I took new clamps, sealant, and pipes, respectively.

Just a couple of days before, a new faucet was installed, the old one began to sweat a little, and began to simply collapse. When you touch it, crumbs from the alloy remain on your fingers. I really liked the quality. It opens as easily as possible, no special effort is required.

On Sunday I only managed to drain the antifreeze, remove the pipes, and remove the generator.

Since Monday, I spent every fucking evening until 11:00 p.m. in the car. From 8 to 18 at work, immediately after repairs.

Yes, as I suspected, the brushes were very worn. Just tough. There's not one in the photo at all. It is there, I pressed it, and it went inside, for good... It was about a quarter the size of the one that was still in place.

I will make another post about repairing the generator, because the problems with it are not over yet. It's completely gross...)

I really hate digging around with a stove and a beard. Damn you crawl up, you break your arm in 10 places to unscrew the damn bolt or nut. But you have to do it. I installed the faucet, nothing special, it’s a common thing, but annoying.

And only on Thursday we got around to the pipes. While walking home from work, I thought about changing everything. I bought a bunch of thermostats. Lately the fan has been humming for a very long time and turning on frequently.

One pipe had to be cut and adjusted, everything turned out great

Degreased, applied sealant, conditioned, installed, tightened. Nothing special)

Looks much more interesting. There are no changes. I hope that they will live happily ever after, without all this.

PRICE: Pipes 1490 RUR Thermostat 450 RUR Sealant with clamps about 500 RUR

Changed the brushes, it's called)

Now there is a problem with the generator, either from the quality of spare parts, or from crooked hands. I'll make a separate post when I figure this out.

PS Before this I wrote that the gearbox howls. I rented it and found it through a man I knew, a very good specialist. The man was involved in auto racing at one time; he had his own team from the factory. I spent my entire youth spinning iron. I'm really confident in him. He told and explained everything. The gearbox was removed and taken to him. He gave me a replacement for the duration of the repair.

Source

Replacing the thermostat from 77C to 92C

Many Grant owners complain about rather problematic and weak thermostats in their cars. Most of the complaints are related to the fact that the device allows access to antifreeze after the engine has warmed up to 80C. In fact, there is no malfunction in this, it’s just a feature of the operation of specific engines - they are initially configured to operate at this temperature.

Most often, such features are not taken seriously by car owners, and do not interfere with the functioning of the engine. Perhaps the only noticeable difference will be cooler air inside the car at sub-zero temperatures outside. However, converting the car to gas fuel will significantly complicate this situation.

In such circumstances, the element can be modified, although not recommended by the manufacturer, after which it will open at 92C. The modification will require the purchase of a new thermostat, however, replacing the entire part will not be necessary; all you need from the new thermostat is a sensor.

To carry out this work you will need:

drive the car onto a ramp or into a pit;
drain the antifreeze;
remove the air duct (it will interfere with the work process);
dismantle the thermostat (or simply remove the cover from the device without losing the seal);
install a new thermoelement;
press the thermocouple with a spring and a limiter.

As a result of the above manipulation, the response temperature will increase by approximately 15%.

The maximum coolant temperature of Lada Kalina FL and Lada Granta cars after 1.5-2 years of operation is 78-80 ° C. It is slightly lower than that achieved in previous AvtoVAZ models. Therefore, some drivers consider this temperature regime of engine operation to be “non-optimal”. This, in their opinion, leads to increased fuel consumption and rapid wear of internal combustion engine parts. But plant specialists are not inclined to connect these indicators with each other, since no direct relationship between them has been noticed.

Some important tips

Before replacing the element we are interested in, experts advise allowing the engine to cool completely after operation. And after the old thermostat has been removed, you should definitely check the new device for serviceability. This is done like this:

lower the thermostat into water heated to a temperature of about 80 degrees;
raise the water temperature by another 10 degrees (you need to stir the liquid);
observe the “behavior” of the new device: if you notice that the rod begins to extend from the silicone element, this means that the thermostat is operational.

And do not forget to pour liquid into the cooling system (into the reservoir) after finishing the work.

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Thermostat structure and operating conditions

The thermostat contains metals such as copper and brass alloy. The essence of the device's operation lies in a small cylinder turned towards the engine.

How to check the health of the thermostat

To check the serviceability of the VAZ-2112 16-valve thermostat, do the following:

start the car and warm it up to the desired temperature;
open the car hood and inspect the appearance of the pipe;
If the thermostat is working properly, the pipe will be warm to the touch.

Otherwise, that is, if the temperature of the pipe is not warm, the thermostat will need to be replaced immediately.

Under normal home conditions, you can check the part for serviceability in another way. To do this, prepare a container with liquid in which to place the thermostat. The vessel is heated on a gas burner, they look at the temperature indicators and control at what moment the part begins to open.

It should be noted that in the operating position, a serviceable element that controls engine heating should open at a temperature of 88 degrees. As soon as the temperature in the engine rises to this level, the lid opens and the coolant begins to move in a large circle. Thanks to this, the VAZ-2112 car does not overheat, it will continue to function normally at any speed.

Replacing it with a new part will help restore proper operation of the engine and prevent it from overheating.

When is it necessary to replace the LADA Granta thermostat?

Recommendations from specialists for modifying the thermostat on the Lada Granta
The thermostat should be changed if it does not close a large circuit even when the engine is hot or opens at a temperature above 92 degrees. In the first case, the engine does not warm up enough, which impairs the combustion of the air-fuel mixture and the circulation of oil through the oil channels. When opening late, at best, the cooling fan often turns on; at worst, the crankshaft bearings fail or the engine head becomes deformed, which requires complex, expensive repairs. The design of the LADA Granta thermostat does not provide for its repair, so the failed part must be replaced with a new one. You can verify that the thermostat is working without removing it from the car by feeling the temperature of the pipes of the large cooling circuit or the bottom of the radiator. They should be cold until the engine reaches operating temperature. After the engine warms up, the thermostat opens and the elements of the large circuit should heat up.

Sensor check

Checking the functionality of this sensor is not difficult. But before you do it, it is advisable to check the integrity of the wiring going to it. You can also check the voltage coming from the control unit. To do this, you need to disconnect the chip with wires from the sensor and connect it to a voltmeter. After this, start the engine and measure the voltage supplied to the sensor; it should correspond to 5 V. If the voltage is normal, check the sensor for resistance.

To remove, check and replace the sensor you will not need much:

Key to 19;
Multimeter;
Container for draining coolant;
Electric kettle;
Thermometer;

Before removing the element, you need to partially drain the liquid from the system. It is not necessary to drain it all, since it is located at the top of the engine; it is enough to drain it to a level below the position of the sensor.

Then the chip with wiring is disconnected from the sensor. Using the 19 key, it turns out of its seat.

Video: Checking the coolant temperature sensor

Check the sensor using an electric kettle with a thermometer and a multimeter set to resistance measurement mode. You can check in two ways.

In the first method, the working part of the sensor is immersed in an electric kettle with cold water, and a thermometer is also placed there. You can only use an electronic thermometer that can measure high temperatures. A multimeter is connected to the sensor itself and the electric kettle is connected to the network. As the water temperature rises, the sensor resistance will drop. So, at a water temperature of +15 C, the resistance should be 4450 Ohms. At +40 C, the multimeter reading should be 1459 Ohms. The water needs to be heated to a temperature of 100 C. At this value, the resistance is minimal - 177 Ohms. If the values differ, it means that the sensor is providing incorrect information.
The second method is suitable if you do not have a thermometer. To measure resistance, the sensor is immersed in water after it has boiled. In this case, the water temperature will approach 100 C, approximately 95-97 degrees. This is quite enough for taking measurements. After lowering the working part of the sensor, there is a resistance on it, which should be slightly more than 177 Ohms. If the difference is large, the sensor is faulty.

How to change the thermostat of LADA “Granta”

Self-replacement of the thermostat on the Lada Kalina

The LADA Granta is equipped with power units with 6 and 8 timing valves. The location of the thermostat in these models is different, and accordingly, the replacement procedure is also different.

To replace the thermostat on the eight-valve Granta version you need:

Phillips screwdriver;
socket wrenches for 10 and 13;
crosshead screwdriver;
key T30;
container for coolant.

Replacing the LADA Granta thermostat (8 valve) is performed as follows:

install the LADA Granta on a site that has a slope so that the front part is higher than the rear;
unscrew the bolts securing the engine protection and remove it;
place a container for coolant under the radiator;
remove the cap covering the expansion tank;
Unscrew the drain plug on the radiator;
drain the coolant into a container;
tighten the drain plug on the radiator;
press the latch and disconnect the wiring block from the coolant temperature sensor;
loosen the clamp securing the rear hose to the thermostat cover pipe;
remove the hose from the pipe;
loosen the clamp securing the front hose to the thermostat cover pipe;
remove the front hose from the pipe;
unscrew the nut holding the ground wire to the thermostat mounting stud;
remove the washer and the ground wire tip from the stud;
unscrew the two nuts securing the thermostat to the engine, remove and set aside the washers;
pull the thermostat housing off the studs;
remove the thermostat gasket;

Important: when removing or replacing the thermostat, the sealing gasket must be replaced with a new one!

unscrew the three bolts holding the thermostat cover;
remove the cover;
press out the thermostat fixing plate, overcoming the resistance of the spring;
turn the plate, remove it from the grooves and pull it out;
remove the spring;
pull the thermostat out of the housing.

The new thermostat is installed in the housing in place of the old one; further operations should be performed in the reverse order of removing the part.

Tip: before installing the hoses on the pipes, you should lubricate the latter with a thin layer of sealant, this will prevent possible leakage of coolant.

After installing the thermostat, it is necessary to fill the cooling system with antifreeze (coolant), start and warm up the engine, making sure that air pockets are removed from the cooling circuits.

To replace the thermostat on the sixteen-valve Granta version, you will need:

crosshead screwdriver;
key to 10;
hex key 5;
container for coolant.

The car must be placed on a level area, preferably with a slight slope, so that the front part is raised relative to the rear. Before replacing the thermostat, drain the coolant from the system. To do this, you need to remove the engine protection, open the expansion tank cap, place a container for coolant under the radiator and drain the latter by unscrewing the radiator drain plug. After the liquid has been drained, you can tighten the drain plug and begin replacing the thermostat. Removing the LADA “Granta” thermostat (16 valves) is performed as follows:

loosen the clamps of the hoses supplying coolant to the thermostat cover;
disconnect the hoses from the thermostat cover;
Unscrew the bolts securing the thermostat cover;
remove the thermostat cover from its seat;
remove the sealing ring from the groove in the thermostat cover (it must be replaced with a new one);
push down and rotate the plate that secures the thermostat in the lid;
remove the plate and thermostat from the cover.

The new thermostat is installed in the reverse order of removal.

After installing the thermostat, it is necessary to fill the system with coolant, start and warm up the engine, and remove air pockets from the system (if any).

Tip: before installing the thermostat on your car, you should check it. To do this, you need to immerse the thermostat in water with a temperature of 85 degrees. If the thermostat rod begins to move, the device is working properly.

Now you know how to change the LADA Granta thermostat and can do the work yourself, without spending additional time and money on a visit to a service station.

Design and functional properties

The materials for the manufacture of parts of the body and filling of the thermostat of the VAZ 2106 car are brass and copper. The working process of the thermostat is as follows:

A spherical piece of wax is placed in the cylinder of the device, which begins to melt when the engine reaches a temperature mark of 82 ° C.
Having a significant coefficient of expansion, the wax begins to press on the end of the rod connected to the inlet valve.
When the valve opens, coolant begins to circulate through the heat removal lines of the engine, cooling it.
As the temperature drops, the wax begins to harden and shrink, which leads to a decrease in pressure on the rod, which returns to its place under the action of the return spring.

Problems with the thermostat arise when the engine is operated in incorrect operating modes: frequent overheating, prolonged driving with engine hyperthermia, or mechanical deformation of the thermostatic device.

If the valve jams in the closed position, severe overheating of the power plant occurs even at negative ambient temperatures. When the valve is partially opened, overheating still occurs, but under gentle operating conditions this will not lead to the engine boiling.

Checking the thermostat (VAZ 2101-2107)"

thermostat

Belmag, for Lada, Tsrab = 85 degrees. Checking the operation of valves without temperature control. At the end…

When the shut-off valve of the car thermostat is in the fully open position, the engine cannot warm up to the temperature required for normal operation. In this case, the wear of parts of the crank and gas distribution mechanisms increases, the required degree of expansion of the cylinder-piston group is not achieved, which leads to insufficient sealing of the combustion chamber and a decrease in the degree of compression.

Common faults

Despite the relative simplicity of the device, troubles sometimes occur with it. A malfunctioning thermostat will most likely render the vehicle unable to be driven. More often, its incorrect operation is provoked by the following reasons:

unstable functioning of the motor (when tripling, the valve is often damaged);
antifreeze getting inside the device;
wax flows out;
mechanical damage to the valve;
deterioration of the rubber gasket;

However, there is usually one main reason - corrosion.

If for some reason the valve does not open at all, the coolant does not circulate and the power plant overheats. Moreover, the problem will arise regardless of how cold it is outside and how quickly the car accelerates.

Incomplete opening of the valve also causes overheating. True, in this case it will not be critical if external factors do not contribute to this. A delay in closing leads to a prolonged warm-up of the engine, and in winter it most likely will not be able to reach operating temperature.

Checking the Thermostat

The problems described above can appear at any time. To avoid engine overheating and damage, you need to know how to check the thermostat directly on the car and after dismantling it at home.

It is important to know that after starting the engine, the thermostat is still closed and the coolant flows through a small circuit (through the cooling jacket and the stove). This allows the power unit to quickly reach the desired temperature. As soon as the required level is reached, the valve opens and coolant flows through the main radiator

As soon as the required level is reached, the valve opens and coolant flows through the main radiator.

Understanding this principle is very important when checking the thermostat. Therefore, we invite you to familiarize yourself with the diagram. Therefore, we invite you to familiarize yourself with the diagram

Therefore, we invite you to familiarize yourself with the diagram.

Let's consider two diagnostic options.

Without dismantling

The easiest way is not to remove the unit, but to check it directly on the car. The main condition is a cold engine.

The diagnostic process begins with starting the power unit and warming it up for 2-3 minutes at idle.

This time is not enough for the engine to warm up and the coolant to circulate in a large circle, so the radiator is not yet connected to the general cooling system.

To check that the system is working correctly, touch the pipe that goes to the top of the main radiator with your hand.

The pipe should be cold, which signals the passage of coolant in a small circle (only through the engine and stove).

Therefore, the valve of the device under test is in the closed position (as it should be at this stage).

Continue to monitor engine cooling system performance. As soon as the coolant warms up to 90 degrees Celsius (can be controlled by the sensor), touch the inlet pipe. The thermostat should be open at this moment.

In this case, the coolant is directed in a maximum circle (encompassing the radiator). In such a situation, the pipe that extends from the radiator will be well heated.

By the way, the lower pipe of the cooling system, extending from the radiator, will also be hot.

If the condition described above is not met, then we can talk about a breakdown of the thermostat and its incorrect operation (for example, the valve could be jammed). In such a situation, you need to check it and replace it if necessary.

The second option is also possible, when after starting the engine the tube leading to the radiator warms up almost immediately.

One of the reasons is the valve jamming in the open position and, as a result, the coolant moving in a large circle at once.

The result in this case is obvious - the power unit will not operate in normal mode due to the impossibility of reaching normal temperature conditions.

Such a malfunction is not dangerous for the engine, but can lead to increased fuel consumption.

Situations are possible when the valve “hangs” in the middle position, that is, it does not close or open fully. The problem is diagnosed by the long warm-up of the power unit.

It is more difficult to determine a malfunction in “field” conditions.

In this case, checking the thermostat can only be done by dismantling it.

Checking the functionality of the thermostat by removing

If it is not possible to determine the breakdown without dismantling, then proceed as follows:

pour the antifreeze into a container prepared in advance. In this case, first install the vessel, and then unscrew the drain plug. To speed up the process of coolant release, unscrew the cap on the expansion tank;
If there is no such plug, then place a container under the lower part of the radiator pipe. loosen the clamp that holds the pipe to the radiator and remove the pipe itself. Wait until the coolant is completely drained into the container, and then proceed to dismantle the thermostat;
dismantle the outlet pipe;
take the thermostat and go to the kitchen. There you will need a stove, a saucepan (or any other metal container) and water. Pour in the liquid and set the pan to heat. Then place the assembly in water so that the body part does not touch the walls of the container itself;
install a special thermometer in the water and monitor changes in its readings, as well as the actions of the valve itself;
as soon as the desired temperature is reached, the unit should operate and open. This is possible thanks to the precise operation of the device’s working substance (artificial wax). When heated, the wax expands and allows the valve to operate. If it still does not work at the required temperature, then we can draw conclusions about the unsuitability of the entire assembly (we will talk about the operation temperature below);
remove the thermostat from the water and let it cool. If the node worked earlier, it should close after a while. Again, if this does not happen, then it needs to be changed.

Thermostat. Replacing the thermoelement with “Behr” 87gr. (1 hour) — Lada Granta, 1.6 l., 2015 on DRIVE2

Start.

Since the beginning of the purchase of Grants, when driving at speed, the engine temperature remained 79-80 degrees all the time.

Sometimes it even showed a value of 78 g. True, only for a few seconds. Many grant providers confirm such a constantly low temperature of the thermostat.

This temperature is really too low. Fuel consumption at a constantly lowered operating temperature of the engine will be slightly higher than normal: for example, the on-board computer will consider that the engine is not warm enough and the fuel mixture needs to be richer.

This is not very critical for the engine, but for its normal efficient operation a higher constant temperature regime is required. And it is better, of course, without such significant surges as constant temperature changes over a fairly large amplitude: in fact, from 79 to 102 degrees. In a traffic jam, When fully warmed up, the temperature constantly exceeded a hundred.

And only at 102 degrees did the radiator cooling fan turn on, which turned off at 98 degrees.

And so on in a circle until we accelerate: 102 - 98, 102 - 98.

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Thermostat housing for Lada Granta

I read various recipes from grant providers for replacing the thermostat to correct the situation. But thermoelements from different companies often differ greatly from each other in their main external dimensions.

For example, thermoelements that have a larger than required diameter of their locking plate, or a smaller diameter of the thrust rod, and its shorter length than required.

So.

On Grant, an 85-degree thermoelement is installed in the thermostat housing from the factory, with characteristic longitudinal recesses along the body.

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Thermocouple "BEHR" 85g.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —“Behr Thermot-tronik GmbH (BTT) is a wholly owned subsidiary of MAHLE Behr GmbH & Co. KG, and within the group MAHLE is a division dealing with thermostats and valves.”

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Analysis of the question: (85±8.3) ºС = from 77ºС to 93ºС.

In general, I was very surprised why the thermostat, designed for 85 degrees, only holds 79-80 degrees. And many people have this situation.

(here, for example, is an interesting article on the Internet: carfrance.ru/kakaya-raboc…o-dvigatelya-lada-granta/)
It's complete nonsense.

When I asked the official dealer where I bought the car with the relevant question, the warranty engineer, having specifically gone to the repair area to see the technicians, returned from them with the answer: “Everything complies with the technical requirements reflected in the “Methodological material on the cooling system of automobile engines.” families of Lada Granta (2190) and Lada Kalina FL (2192, 2194)." The same is said in the "Information letter to AvtoVAZ dealers" - about the operating mode of the Granta thermostat (not verbatim): "... It is considered normal if the operating temperature range of the thermostat does not exceed 8.3 degrees in both directions from the declared value of the thermostat...” That is, if the standard thermostat is 85 degrees. will keep any temperature in the range from 76.7 degrees. up to 93.3g, then this will not be considered a malfunction. An employee of the center even persistently offered to draw this conclusion for me from the methodological material in printed form. I refused.

Then questions arose: a thermocouple with WHAT other threshold should I choose, instead of 85g? -? To 87g-? Or at 92g? And what company? For example:

GATES TH27188G1

GATES TH00391G2TX 4 87DTX 4 92D

VERNET TH4898.87J

VERNET TH4898.92WAHLER 3017.87D2WAHLER 3017.92D2WAHLER 3091.92D This is the entire list of those thermostats that are recommended by Grant owners for replacement instead of the factory Behr thermostat.

It was a little scary that if you choose, for example, the same company Behr, then if the 85th actually holds 80, even 79g. What: the 87th will hold - 82gr.-? And the 92nd will always give only 87 degrees -? And if the 92nd still maintains its 92 degrees -?

Then in the summer the engine, especially with an automatic transmission, especially with the air conditioning on, I think, will be a little hot.

* WAHLER = The stem is much shorter and narrower! The thinnest in diameter and the shortest of all. As I understand, the rubberized plate is only at 92 degrees. Not rubberized - at 87 degrees. If not for the stock, it would be most suitable as a substitute. Many people bet.

* GATES = TE body is slightly smaller in diameter. The stem is shorter! The diameter seems to be the same as the original one.

The plate diameter is 0.5mm smaller: 28.5mm than the original Behr: 29.0mm.

* VERNET = The diameter of the TE body is even smaller by 2.5 mm than that of GATES. The TEs are the same: either 87 or 92 g. The fit on the TE under the spring is narrower! The rod is a little thinner and shorter than the original from Behr.

The plate is 1mm larger in diameter.
* * *
Boil test.

After studying the opinions and experience of many grant providers in their Logbooks, who installed what thermostats for themselves, I decided to determine the temperature during a preliminary check of the fuel cell during boiling.

Based on the manufacturer, I came to a conclusion: we need to take the “BEHR” fuel cell, since it has the same basic parameters as the one installed in the Granta thermostat housing from the factory.

This means you can replace it without serious hemorrhoids and any risks.

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Thermostat "BEHR" 87 degrees: Knecht / Mahle TX 4 87D.

BEHR thermocouple 87 g: Knecht/Mahle TX 4 87D, bought without difficulty.

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Thermostat "BEHR" 92 degrees: Knecht / Mahle TX 4 92D.

But finding a 92-degree BEHR thermocouple: Knecht/Mahle TX 4 92D turned out to be not so easy. It turned out that it is quite rare, apparently because it is not very popular.

An acquaintance provided a new original Grant thermostat housing assembly for testing.

Therefore, I was able to compare all three fuel cells: the standard one, from the same case, which is 85g. and two purchased - for 87g. and at 92 degrees. Thermostats at 85 and 87, in spite of everything, as the temperature increased, they showed approximately the same dynamics and opening size. But at 92g.

opened slightly to a much smaller opening. When boiling, I noticed that the thermostat continued to open more and more as the liquid heated up. The more heat, the greater the opening.

It was clearly visible from the BEHR thermoelement that the poor fuel element continued to compress the return spring for another 5-8 seconds after the water had already boiled.

Although, this is logical: the higher the coolant temperature, the larger the passage for the flow of liquid must be opened so that it has time to cool the unit.

Return spring.

The idea arose to try replacing the standard return spring with another, slightly softer one.

Such a spring was found in the LUZAR LT0108 thermostat.

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Thermostat LUZAR LT0108 before opening.

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Opened thermostat LUZAR LT0108.

The spring from the LUZAR thermostat surprisingly turned out to be what I was looking for. The shape is the same: conical. Rod diameter: D = 2.1 mm. (the standard Bekhrovskaya rod has a diameter of 2.4 mm). It has exactly the same end diameters as the standard Granta thermostat spring. 10mm shorter than the standard height, and, indeed, a little softer than the standard one. Exactly what is needed!

In the process of searching for a replacement spring, I also found a spring from a classic radiator cap. But it is too soft, short, and has a cylindrical shape.

And the Vernet thermostat spring is cylindrical in shape, and its diameter does not coincide with either the wide or narrow ends of the standard Behr spring.

In general, I installed the Luzarovskaya spring to check with the 92nd TE, so that it would start moving at its 92 degrees, but then, with a softer spring, it would open to a greater distance, opening a wider passage for the antifreeze... .

But the result of the experiment did not suit me((.

Yes, now the 92nd TE opened more than with the original spring, but still - significantly less than the 85th or 87th TE.

And one more thing: at the same time it closed much more slowly (!), which is already very bad ((! When the temperature drops - the liquid in the engine cools - the thermoelement will not have time to close in time, and I realized that the thermal regulation phases will be completely disrupted.

Since the experiment with using the Luzarovskaya spring during boiling was considered unsuccessful, the option of replacing the spring, in principle, disappeared by itself.

Knecht/Mahle TX 4 92D or Knecht/Mahle TX 4 87D.

vwts.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=150802&st=580

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BEHR thermostat characteristics table

If you believe the information from a table provided on one forum by one of its users on the characteristics of BEHR fuel cells, then by the number after the letter “S” stamped on the fuel cell body, we can assume

that in front of us is just some kind of monster,

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The number after the letter S-! ! !

those. For every degree of temperature increase, the rod extends 1 mm! Those. – more sensitive!

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Knecht / Mahle TX 4 92D

It is logical: it maintains a higher temperature = 92 degrees, and when exceeded, it opens more quickly and intensively. After all, it’s very close to a hundred. Unfortunately, I didn’t see anything like that in the pan. By 98 degrees, the opening was more than modest.

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By 98 degrees, the opening value of the TE is 92 degrees. was more than modest ((

As a result, I concluded that this fuel element: at 92 degrees, will be very useful for Lada Granta owners in the colder, northern regions of the Russian Federation (completely ready for installation in the car’s thermostat housing). Thus, I installed a fuel element in my Granta at 87 degrees.

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Purchased BEHR thermostats

Purchased BEHR thermostats differ from those installed in the Grantovsky fuel cell only in that they have a ground, narrowed shank of the thrust rod. Grantovsky has no such thing.

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On the left - Behr with Grants, on the right - purchased Behr

Therefore, the only thing that needs to be done is to modify this shank, making its end back full in area at the end. It’s not according to Feng Shui that the rod, resting, presses with its pin at the end into only one tiny point in the bottom of the blind hole of the thermostat housing with the brave force of its return spring.

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Extension screw with outer diameter 4mm, and with inner hole

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Extension screw on the thermoelement rod

To do this, I found some kind of extension screw on the farm with an outer diameter of also 4 mm, which, most importantly, has an internal hole, even with an M2 thread.

I shortened the length of this very narrow shank a little to the standard length of a regular rod. I sawed off the short shank to the length of the shank, slightly made a recess with a drill like a counter, since the descent to the small shank itself has a conical shape.

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I sawed off a short piece to the length of the shank, made a recess in it with a drill like a mortar

To be sure, I quickly and carefully soldered the short piece to the rod, so that God forbid it would come off during installation and remain inside the thermostat housing.

I planned not to remove the entire housing, but only unscrew the thermostat housing cover and change the fuel element directly on the engine. In the end I did just that.

* * *

Types of thermostats

The VAZ 2106 car was produced for many years. And during this time, engineers made a number of changes to it, including thermostats. Let's look at what thermostats were installed on the VAZ 2106 from the release of the first cars to the present day.

Single valve thermostat

Single-valve thermostats were installed on the very first “sixes” that rolled off the VAZ assembly line. The operating principle of this device has been described in detail above. To date, these devices are considered obsolete, and finding them on sale is not so easy.

Electronic thermostat

An electronic thermostat is the latest and most advanced modification that replaced single-valve devices. Its main advantages are high accuracy and reliability. Electronic thermostats have two operating modes: automatic and manual.

Liquid thermostat

Thermostats are classified not only by design, but also by the type of fillers. Liquid thermostats were the very first to appear. The main component of a liquid thermostat is a small brass cylinder filled with distilled water and alcohol. The operating principle of this device is the same as that of the wax-filled thermostats discussed above.

Solid thermostat

The filler in such thermostats is ceresin. This is a substance similar in consistency to regular wax, which is mixed with copper powder and placed in a copper container. The cylinder has a rubber membrane connected to a rod, also made of dense rubber that is resistant to high temperatures. Ceresin, expanded from heating, presses on the membrane, which, in turn, acts on the rod and valve, ensuring the circulation of antifreeze.

Which thermostat is better

Today, thermostats based on solid fillers are considered the best option for the VAZ 2106, since they have the optimal combination of price and quality. In addition, they can be found in any auto store, unlike liquid single-valve ones, which are practically no longer on sale.

About structural features and working conditions

The materials from which manufacturers create thermostats include copper and brass alloys. The essence of the action of this product is contained in a small cylinder, which is turned towards the Lada Granta engine block. In the middle of this cylinder there is a wax ball, capable of starting to melt when the temperature in the cooling circuit reaches 82 degrees. The designers also integrated a special pin into the cylinder, which has a direct connection with the valve. As the wax melts, the substance expands, causing the pin to begin to be squeezed out of the cylinder. This action of this pin causes the valve to open, allowing the fluid to reroute. When the motor stops, the wax becomes solid, causing the designated valve to close.

What is a thermostat?

As the name of the device suggests, it does something with temperature. More specifically, it helps switch fluid flows in the cooling system. Moreover, the thermostat, carburetor or injector are at the heart of the gasoline injection system and have the same composition and housing design. When operating any engine, it is necessary to ensure heating of the throttle assembly. And it is present in any injection system: both in the carburetor and in the injector.

The basis of any thermostat is a special plate, which is made of a material called bimetal. It reacts to temperature changes and is capable of deformation because of this. The switching of air flows is based on this effect: the plate moves the valve, which is fixed by springs. Having overcome their force, the plate moves the valve, opening the path for liquid flow to the main radiator to ensure effective cooling.

How to tell if the thermostat is working correctly

In order to find out whether the thermostat is working or not, it is necessary to warm up the engine so that the arrow indicating the temperature does not reach the red mark of the indicator quite a bit.

After that, turn off the engine, go to the hood and open it, look for the upper radiator hose. This rubber hose is usually black in color and is approximately 5cm in diameter.

There are metal clamps at its ends. The upper hose is attached to the top of the radiator. Then we look for the lower hose. It looks like the top one, only it is attached to the bottom of the radiator.

Touch the hoses carefully; they may be hot enough to burn you. If the engine temperature indicator shows that the engine is hot, but one of the hoses is cold, then most likely the thermostat valve is closed and is not allowing coolant through the radiator.

In this case, replace the old thermostat with a new one as quickly as possible (after waiting until the engine has cooled down).

There is another “folk” method for checking the functionality of the thermostat and it is as follows. Place the thermostat in a vessel with boiled (temperature should be about 100 degrees) water.

Next, we visually observe whether the thermostat valve opens. If it opens, it means it’s working. If not, we replace the damaged one with a new one. The above method involves removing the thermostat from the car.

If the thermostat malfunctions in a car, overheating or, more often, low engine temperature is observed. Such phenomena are associated with the thermostat jamming in one position; as a result, the coolant moves in one circle (large or small). Lack of adjustment of coolant distribution leads to deviations from the engine temperature regime. Thermostat failure is one of the most common problems in a cooling system. To replace the thermostat on a Lada Granta car, the coolant from the cooling system does not need to be completely drained.

You will need: TORX TZO wrench, 13mm socket, Phillips-blade screwdriver.

LADA 110 and Priora

1 — heater radiator; 2 — coolant drain hose from the heater radiator; 3 — coolant supply hose to the heater radiator; 4 — coolant pump hose; 5 — expansion tank hose; 6 — steam removal hose of the heater radiator; 7 - expansion tank; 8 — liquid level sensor in the expansion tank; 9 — thermostat; 10 — coolant drain hose from the engine radiator; 11 liquid supply hose to the throttle assembly; 12 — steam exhaust hose of the engine radiator; 13 — hose for supplying fluid to the engine radiator; 14 — engine radiator; 15 — radiator drain plug; 16 — electric engine radiator fan; 17 — coolant pump; 18 — supply pipe to the coolant pump; 19 — coolant drain hose from the throttle body

On the old 110, a thermostat 2110-1306010 (“three-hole”) was installed.

The Priora and the new 110 use a thermostat 21082-1306010-10 (“six-hole”) with its classic circuit, similar to the Samara of the latest releases.

On newer models (FL), a system based on the 2190 thermostat is also installed.

There is an additional steam removal hose leading from the heater to the expansion tank.

How to change the thermostat of LADA “Granta”

The LADA Granta is equipped with power units with 6 and 8 timing valves.
The location of the thermostat in these models is different, and accordingly, the replacement procedure is also different. To replace the thermostat on the eight-valve Granta version you need:

Phillips screwdriver;
socket wrenches for 10 and 13;
crosshead screwdriver;
key T30;
container for coolant.

Replacing the LADA Granta thermostat (8 valve) is performed as follows:

install the LADA Granta on a site that has a slope so that the front part is higher than the rear;
unscrew the bolts securing the engine protection and remove it;
place a container for coolant under the radiator;
remove the cap covering the expansion tank;
Unscrew the drain plug on the radiator;
drain the coolant into a container;
tighten the drain plug on the radiator;
press the latch and disconnect the wiring block from the coolant temperature sensor;
loosen the clamp securing the rear hose to the thermostat cover pipe;
remove the hose from the pipe;
loosen the clamp securing the front hose to the thermostat cover pipe;
remove the front hose from the pipe;
unscrew the nut holding the ground wire to the thermostat mounting stud;
remove the washer and the ground wire tip from the stud;
unscrew the two nuts securing the thermostat to the engine, remove and set aside the washers;
pull the thermostat housing off the studs;
remove the thermostat gasket;

Important: when removing or replacing the thermostat, the sealing gasket must be replaced with a new one!

unscrew the three bolts holding the thermostat cover;
remove the cover;
press out the thermostat fixing plate, overcoming the resistance of the spring;
turn the plate, remove it from the grooves and pull it out;
remove the spring;
pull the thermostat out of the housing.

The new thermostat is installed in the housing in place of the old one; further operations should be performed in the reverse order of removing the part.

Tip: before installing the hoses on the pipes, you should lubricate the latter with a thin layer of sealant, this will prevent possible leakage of coolant.

To replace the thermostat on the sixteen-valve Granta version, you will need:

crosshead screwdriver;
key to 10;
hex key 5;
container for coolant.

loosen the clamps of the hoses supplying coolant to the thermostat cover;
disconnect the hoses from the thermostat cover;
Unscrew the bolts securing the thermostat cover;
remove the thermostat cover from its seat;
remove the sealing ring from the groove in the thermostat cover (it must be replaced with a new one);
push down and rotate the plate that secures the thermostat in the lid;
remove the plate and thermostat from the cover.

The new thermostat is installed in the reverse order of removal.

After installing the thermostat, it is necessary to fill the system with coolant, start and warm up the engine, and remove air pockets from the system (if any).

Now you know how to change the LADA Granta thermostat and can do the work yourself, without spending additional time and money on a visit to a service station.

Car: Lada Granta. Asks: Shmakov Viktor. The essence of the question: At what temperature does the thermostat open on the Lada Granta?

Please tell me at what temperature the thermostat on the Lada Granta should open, with the settings that were installed on it from the factory?

Signs of a malfunction of the VAZ 2112 thermostat

If the thermostat does not release liquid to a large circle, the car will begin to heat up very much - do not allow it to overheat under any circumstances and replace the thermostat as soon as possible, because if your car’s engine operates at elevated temperatures, the gasket will gradually burn out cylinder head.

There are 5 main signs of a thermostat malfunction:

The car engine takes a long time to reach operating temperature.
The engine overheats quickly.
The engine temperature gauge drops at lower speeds than usual and rises after stopping.
After several minutes of operation, when the lower pipe is warm, this already indicates a prematurely opened thermostat.
If the lower hose is cold while the engine temperature is close to boiling, this indicates a stuck thermostat.

Features of the LADA Granta cooling system

As in previous LADA models, upon reaching a certain temperature, the thermostat switches the coolant flow from a small to a large circuit. The small circuit includes:

cylinder water jacket;
water pump;
interior heater.

The difference is that the heater radiator is connected to a small circuit in series and not in parallel. This forces all the coolant to pass through it, improving the heating of the cabin. The thermostat opening temperature is 85 degrees. Upon reaching this mark, the valve opens and the liquid begins to circulate through a large circuit into which. In addition to the small circuit elements, a cooling radiator is included. The advantage of the modernized cooling system is that antifreeze from the engine jacket falls directly onto the thermostat thermocouple without mixing in its housing. This allows the element to respond to the actual engine temperature, opening on time and preventing overheating. The manufacturer has set the permissible thermostat opening range to 85–7 degrees. That is, it can open at both 78 and 93 degrees. According to the official letter from the manufacturer, sent to dealers, the operating temperature of the Grant engine may be 10 degrees lower than that of previous VAZ models. This does not mean that the engine is “underheated” and does not lead to an increase in fuel consumption, deterioration of lubrication and a decrease in engine life. However, owners of the LADA Grant often change the thermostat to a new one, with an opening temperature closer to 90 degrees, or modify the standard thermostat by changing the thermal element.

Advantages of LUZAR thermostats

Computer dosage of thermal wax LUZAR thermostats have thermal sensors filled using special equipment, which guarantees high accuracy of operation.

Patented thermal sensor design To eliminate the possibility of a “breakthrough” of thermal wax from the thermal sensor body (which, according to statistics, is the most common cause of thermostat failure), LUZAR changed the configuration of the sealing gasket in the rod-thermal wax-cylinder interface. With increasing pressure, expanding when heated, the thermowax gasket design - thanks to its specific geometry - forms an increased volume of rubber precisely in places where the thermowax “breakthrough” may occur

This also required changing the geometry of the temperature sensor housing (“cylinder”).

Rubberized valves We have eliminated the cause of insufficient tightness of the thermoelement - the metal-to-metal interface between the metal frame of the thermoelement and the metal valve plate - by using a rubber sealing gasket on the valve plate. Thus, LUZAR thermostats provide faster engine warm-up in winter (which is so important in Russian conditions climate).

100% control of thermoelements Each thermoelement is tested for temperature, height and response speed - carried out in special baths with cells.

Warranty 2 years or 125,000 km. Mandatory certification In the event of a breakdown, you can easily replace the purchased thermostat through a retail store - just return it with a warranty card and a description of the defect

All products are certified according to the international quality management system ISO 9001 TUV and have GOST-R certificates of conformity.

How much does a LUZAR thermostat cost?

The price of LUZAR thermostats is lower than original products. At the same time, the quality matches or exceeds the quality of the original (factory installed) analogues.

We will answer all your questions about production, installation, use and points of sale by calling toll-free 8-800-555-8965.

code Luzar LT 0192

OEM number: 2190-1306010-92 2190-1306010 21200-5PA0A 2190-1306100

Opening temperature, ?С: 92

Applicability for vehicles

Brand name – LT – LuzarThermostat

Thermostats are necessary to direct the flow of coolant in the cooling system of automobile engines, thereby regulating the temperature of the coolant.

when the temperature rises (usually at ≈80ºC), the main thermostat valve opens while the bypass valve closes;
the radiator is included in the cooling circuit;
the coolant temperature drops;
When the temperature decreases, the reverse process occurs.

If necessary. more details

Brand name – LT – LuzarThermostat

Thermostats are necessary to direct the flow of coolant in the cooling system of automobile engines, thereby regulating the temperature of the coolant.

when the temperature rises (usually at ≈80ºC), the main thermostat valve opens while the bypass valve closes;
the radiator is included in the cooling circuit;
the coolant temperature drops;
When the temperature decreases, the reverse process occurs.

If you need to purchase a thermostat for a car, you need to know a few simple rules.

The operation of a car thermostat is characterized by two parameters:

The service life of a car thermostat depends on the degree of professionalism of the manufacturer and depends on the following points:

thermostat designs
pairing parts
production technologies
technical production capabilities
raw materials used
level of control of finished products

In turn, the accuracy of the auto thermostat is “revealed” by several indicators:

opening temperature
opening speed
valve lift
pressure at which the valve seals when closed

When choosing a thermostat, it should be remembered that two different vector requirements for the operation of the cooling system will depend on the indicated indicators - on the one hand, rapid warming up of the engine (and, therefore, a comfortable temperature in the car interior) and, on the other hand, the moment of “connection” to cooling radiator circuit (“large cooling circle”) to avoid engine overheating. It is the thermostat that solves the most important and controversial problem - to achieve the optimal engine temperature, while ensuring the absence of overheating, the flow of hot liquid into the heating radiator and comfort in the cabin, smoothing out the effect of “thermal shock”.

The simplest method of checking the thermostat is to put it in hot water and monitor the performance indicators indicated above.

LUZAR produces thermostats for both passenger cars, commercial vehicles and trucks. Today, LUZAR’s product range includes more than 20 models of thermostats for both domestic and imported cars.

When is it necessary to replace the LADA Granta thermostat?

The thermostat should be changed if it does not close a large circuit even when the engine is hot or opens at temperatures above 92 degrees. In the first case, the engine does not warm up enough, which impairs the combustion of the air-fuel mixture and the circulation of oil through the oil channels. When opening late, at best, the cooling fan often turns on; at worst, the crankshaft bearings fail or the engine head becomes deformed, which requires complex, expensive repairs. The design of the LADA Granta thermostat does not provide for its repair, so the failed part must be replaced with a new one. You can verify that the thermostat is working without removing it from the car by feeling the temperature of the pipes of the large cooling circuit or the bottom of the radiator. They should be cold until the engine reaches operating temperature. After the engine warms up, the thermostat opens and the elements of the large circuit should heat up.

Revision option

As evidenced by reviews from grant owners, the manufacturer supplies this model with a rather weak thermostat. Usually it opens access to antifreeze after the engine warms up to 80 radii. This is due to low-quality wax inserts, which we described above.

In most cases, such a problem is not perceived as something serious, since it does not harm the operation of the engine in any way. The only drawback is that in winter, when there is frost, the interior can be cool. The situation becomes more complicated if the owner of the car switches to gas.

In this case, it makes sense to modify the thermostat so that it opens at 92 degrees. To do this you will need to purchase a new one. The entire element does not need to be replaced, so only the insert is taken out of the purchased one.

Experts advise choosing the model – VERNET TH4898.92D. Its cost is low - approximately 400 rubles.

The step-by-step replacement procedure is as follows:

first of all, the car is driven onto a ramp or pit;
drain antifreeze from the cooling system;
remove the air duct because it is in the way;
the thermostat itself is dismantled (but you can leave it in place and only remove the cover from it, the main thing is not to lose the seal);
the old thermocouple is removed and a new one is inserted;
they press it with the original spring and limiter.

On average, the response temperature after such a procedure increases by 15 percent.

The whole process is recorded in this video:

All cars whose engines are cooled by a special liquid have at their disposal a device called a thermostat. Lada Granta is no exception.

In the Grant model, the thermostat is located between the radiator and the engine. In the article we will talk about the concept of a car thermostat, what components it consists of and how it functions, and also consider the main types of thermostat malfunctions.

The thermostat is called the antifreeze (antifreeze) temperature regulator in the engine cooling system. It increases the engine warm-up rate and maintains the required thermal state.

The key job of the thermostat is to hold back the flow of radiator fluid until the engine has warmed up. If the engine remains cold, the coolant does not pass through it to the radiator.

The thermostat opens when the engine temperature reaches 95 degrees. Thanks to its operation, the engine warms up faster. Thus, in the Lada Granta, the thermostat reduces the amount of harmful emissions and reduces engine wear to a minimum.

If desired, you can clearly see the operation of the thermostat at home. Place the thermostat in a container filled with water, then place it on the electric stove. As the moment of boiling water approaches, the thermostat valve will open approximately 2 cm. It is recommended to experiment with a new thermostat without removing yours from your own car.

How to check the thermostat

The thermostat can be checked in two ways, but one of the checking methods is quite labor-intensive and is most often abandoned.

First way

To check, the thermostat must be removed. It is also necessary to prepare the tools and materials that will be used for the work.

What you need:

Kitchen stove or burner;
Thermometer;
Container with water;

We immerse the dismantled thermostat in a container of water and boil it on the stove to a temperature of 85°C (a thermometer placed in the water will help determine the temperature). When the temperature reaches 85°C, the thermostat should open completely, but if it opens much earlier, it means it is faulty and must be replaced with a new one.

Second way

To check this method, there is no need to dismantle the thermostat, but the check must be carried out on a cooled engine. We start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature. At the moment when the engine has warmed up to 70°C, you need to touch the large circle pipe (this is the lower radiator hose), it should be cold. If the hose already warms up to 70°C, then it is necessary to change the thermostat, as it is faulty.