Diagram and procedure for tightening the cylinder head of the VAZ-2106

In order for the VAZ-2106, like any other brand of car, to function perfectly and not let the driver down on the road, you need to regularly inspect the technical condition of the car in order to be able to correct any breakdowns in a timely manner.

The operation of each automotive component must be carefully configured, including the operation of the cylinder head. Quite often, the head bolts become loose after using the machine for a long time, so they need to be tightened periodically. Since this process is not so complicated, you can handle it yourself if you know the procedure and pattern for tightening the cylinder head for a VAZ-2106 car. How to tighten bolts according to the rules and how to cope with this task on your own? Let's try to analyze it in this article.

In what cases is it necessary to tighten fasteners?

Maintaining the correct tightening torque of the bolts on the VAZ-2106 engine is necessary when:

• problems with the engine, in this case it may be necessary to replace the cylinder block gasket, valve stem seals or valve liners, after which you need to return the cylinder head fasteners to their place;
• problems with the car that require head diagnostics;
• every 2-3 thousand kilometers for preventive purposes.

Few people tighten fasteners with the required force for prevention. Meanwhile, the engine constantly vibrates during operation. Because of this, the bolts weaken and over time may even leave their places. This is fraught with serious engine damage.

Thrust half rings.

Torque and tightening force of the cylinder head on a VAZ 2114

thrust half rings, manufacturer DMR Let me remind you from theory of one figure that every person who assembles an engine should know. The permissible axial movement of the engine crankshaft must be within the tolerance range of 0.06 - 0.26 mm. These figures are taken from German literature. AvtoTAZ gives broader figures, but we will rely on the best. Actually, for this adjustment, thrust half-rings are needed. In 2020 The DMR plant has finally switched to the production of steel-bronze half rings. In the price list, half rings are presented together, standard and repair. The price for this kit is low, but there is the possibility of as many as three installation combinations. Motor practice of services and mechanics showed the correctness of this approach.

When Bolts Need Replacement

Before you begin tightening the bolts, you should inspect them. A visual assessment of the condition is not enough; it is necessary to check the fastener parameters. He must:

Some mechanics recommend regularly screwing new bolts into the cylinder head. Others adhere to the rule that replacement should only be carried out if the fastener is screwed into the socket tightly. It is best not to skimp on bolts, since using a component that is obviously stretched increases the risk of its metal breaking. The consequences of this are almost unpredictable; in most cases, it will be possible to restore the operation of the power plant only with the help of specialists.

How to tighten correctly?

You can tighten the bolts with the help of specialists or yourself. If you have never encountered the need to perform this task before, then below we will look at how tightly you should tighten the screws and in what sequence you should do it.

Be sure to strictly observe the tightening torque, since if the head bolts are overtightened, this will lead to cracks and damage to the cylinder head. If this happens, the car owner will have to carry out major repairs to the unit. The working surface of the hole, as well as the threaded connection of the screw, must be as clean as possible. A wire brush can be used to clean the cylinders. If during the task you find “blind” holes for the head screws, use a cleaning lubricant carefully. If the volume of the substance is greater than required, it will be difficult to install the pin all the way.

Before tightening, it is necessary to visually diagnose the condition of the bolts. If the fastening elements are damaged or worn out, their quality is generally low, then it is better not to tighten them with these screws; it is recommended to replace them with new ones.

It is recommended to lubricate the threads of new bolts with a small amount of engine oil or another type of lubricant.

Tools and materials

To tighten the cylinder head, prepare only one tool - a torque wrench, which will allow you to determine the tightening force of the screws. It is best to purchase a key in a specialized store or rent it at a service station, since this tool can only be used for tightening and tightening. Using a regular wrench will not allow you to determine how many kilograms the tightening force is.

When purchasing bolts, it is recommended to give preference to branded parts. Be sure to look at the threaded part - it must be intact, without damage or defects; if any, the fasteners are replaced.

Channel “Engine Repair! And interesting!” published a video that describes all the nuances of the stretching process.

Algorithm of actions

The order and strength required when pulling the cylinder head bolts is as follows:

1. In accordance with the diagram below, tighten all bolts using a torque wrench. The tightening torque on the first round of tightening the fasteners will be about 3.5 - 4.1 kgf/m. First, the bolts are tightened, which are located in the center of the block head - top and bottom. After this, the two upper and lower fasteners are screwed in, installed on the side of the screws located in the center. Then the two outer bolts are tightened. Please note that you need to tighten the left pins first, and then the right ones. Screw number 11, located at the bottom left, does not need to be touched.
2. This is the first stretch circle. At the second stage, the bolts are tightened in a similar order. Only the force with which the fastening elements are tensioned by the tool will be 10.5 - 11.5 kgf/m.
3. At the third stage, the bolt is tensioned, which is marked with number 11 in the diagram. The tightening force of this screw should be 3.5 - 4.0 kgf/m.

Why do you need to observe the tightening torque?

Installation of new bolts is carried out in compliance with the diagram and tightening torque. It is important to follow the instructions for the following reasons:

• an incorrect sequence will lead to deformation of the middle part of the block;
• Excessive force causes cracks in the cylinder head metal;
• Insufficient tightening may result in the need for engine overhaul.

In order to do this job accurately and correctly, you will need to have a torque wrench on hand. This tool will allow you to maintain the tightening torque. It cannot be replaced by a regular gas wrench, since you cannot use it to determine how many kilograms of force were applied to the screw. If you often repair your car yourself, this special tool is best to buy. For one-time use, it is better to rent it at the nearest service station.

Do-it-yourself cylinder valve body maintenance.

The cylinder head (cylinder head) is the most important component in the car engine system. The process of tightening the cylinder head bolts will be within the capabilities of a car enthusiast with certain skills. To work, we need a special tool and self-confidence. The instructions provided will help you cope with the task and avoid common mistakes.

First, let's determine in what cases it is necessary to tighten the bolts.

Most modern cars do not require cylinder head bolts to be tightened. On earlier car models (for example VAZ 2109), it is necessary to tighten the bolts in a timely manner in order to successfully pass the technical inspection.

cylinder head bolts

As a rule, the accumulation of moisture in the places where the block comes into contact with the cylinders indicates the need to tighten the bolts. The reason for the appearance of moisture in these places may be a leak of lubricant. There are several most popular reasons for tightening bolts, including:

• Violation of the block head structure. Such consequences most often result from engine overheating.
• Cylinder head gasket leak. This fact also indicates the need to tighten the bolts. It is recommended to adjust the tightening torque after passing a certain mileage and without fail, after repairing the cylinder head.

Recommended tightening torque

Before you begin tightening, several conditions must be met:

1. Clean the working surface of the hole and the threaded connection of the screw as much as possible. Before this, you will need to remove contaminants from the intake manifold, block and the cylinder itself. Be careful not to damage the surface of the parts, especially if you use a wire brush. In most cases, it is better to use a simple rag for cleaning.
2. Lubricating the screw holes is mandatory. Before screwing the bolts into the blind sockets, you need to take a small amount of lubricant, otherwise you will not be able to screw them in all the way.
3. If you are installing new bolts, lubricate the threads with a small amount of clean engine oil. For old fasteners, simply clean it.

You need to tighten the cylinder head fasteners of a VAZ-2106 car according to the following diagram:

• central (1 and 2);
• two at the top and bottom, located on each side of the center (3, 4, 5, 6);
• extreme right (7, 8);
• extreme left (9, 10);
• 11 screw (only on the third circle).

What you need to know about a torque wrench

The bolts are tightened in a certain sequence - from the center to the edges, one at a time. If you are not a motor mechanic with extensive experience and an experienced hand, then the main condition for the correct performance of the work will be the use of a torque wrench. This tool is widespread everywhere, it is easy to buy or rent - just look at the newspaper advertisements or go to your neighbor’s garage.

Torque wrenches come in different designs, but they are all designed to measure the tightening force of threaded connections. When choosing a key, you need to find out in what units the measurement is taken and whether it matches the car manufacturer’s instructions.

In the international SI measurement system, the tightening force is called newton meters, in Russia it is often called kilogram meters, for some foreign cars you can find measurements in pound-force feet. To avoid errors when converting one unit of measurement to another, you can purchase a key with different scales.

Table: how to convert measurements from newton meters to pound-force feet

To make sure your actions are correct, you can use a protractor to monitor the angle of rotation of the bolt after tightening it with a torque wrench.

This is what a torque wrench looks like, allowing you to correctly determine the force for tightening threaded connections

In what cases is it necessary to tighten fasteners?

Maintaining the correct tightening torque of the bolts on the VAZ-2106 engine is necessary when:

• problems with the engine, in this case it may be necessary to replace the cylinder block gasket, valve stem seals or valve liners, after which you need to return the cylinder head fasteners to their place;
• problems with the car that require head diagnostics;
• every 2-3 thousand kilometers for preventive purposes.

Few people tighten fasteners with the required force for prevention. Meanwhile, the engine constantly vibrates during operation. Because of this, the bolts weaken and over time may even leave their places. This is fraught with serious engine damage.

If the camshaft fails

Tightening procedure for cylinder head 4216

The camshaft on the VAZ 2106 model is rarely dismantled. Typically during repair or disassembly. Sometimes to replace it.

Signs

First, let's talk a little about the signs that indicate that the camshaft is faulty, its journals or beds are worn out. It is difficult to determine whether the shaft or something else is knocking in the VAZ 2106 engine, but it is possible. The knock of the camshaft is dull and clearly audible. As engine speed increases, the knocking becomes more frequent.

Some drivers determine knocking in this unit using a stethoscope or a stick through the valve cover. But often it is difficult for an inexperienced driver to do this. Therefore, the best way to diagnose the camshaft is to remove it, wash it and inspect it.

If the camshaft is faulty, the following symptoms may occur:

• a dull knock, reminiscent of hammer blows;
• it is impossible to adjust the valve clearances; while the crankshaft is turning, the camshaft is constantly in different positions.

This video shows how you can eliminate longitudinal runout of a camshaft.

The most reliable method for diagnosing problems with the VAZ 2106 camshaft is to dismantle it from the car and wash it. You can wash it in gasoline or other cleaning liquid. Next, you need to hold the shaft and hit the bed, when you hear the slightest knock, we determine whether the mechanism is worn out. Be sure to make sure that the shaft does not move in bed, because when it hits the limiter it will make a dull knock.

The camshaft has a great influence on the pressure in the lubrication system. If the gaps between the bed and the camshaft are large, then the pressure will be low, and as a result, unsatisfactory lubrication of other parts.

Causes

The main malfunctions that result in the need to replace the camshaft are its wear, the appearance of various scuffs and grooves on the bearing journals. Likewise, replacing the camshaft is necessary if it is found to be deformed or cracked. When such malfunctions occur, the power unit loses power and also begins to function intermittently. Problems with the camshaft are identified by a knocking sound in the cylinder head.

The camshaft on the “six” is rarely removed. In addition to the above reasons for replacing and reconfiguring the power unit. After this, you can notice a significant increase in power, like in sports cars.

When is it necessary to puff?

First, let's look at the cases in which it is necessary to tighten the bolts of the cylinder head of a VAZ 2106 car engine:

1. If engine oil comes out from under the cylinder head. The problem indicates damage or natural wear to the head gasket. It is necessary to remove and replace the seal. The leak may also be due to loose cylinder head bolts. The presence of a problem is indicated by oil stains that appear at the junction of the head and the motor block.
2. After repairing the power unit. If you removed the fastenings in a Niva or any other car and rebuilt the engine, then for successful assembly you should take into account the order of tightening and the diagram, as well as the tightening force of the screws.
3. For prevention purposes. Experts recommend tightening the bolts on the cylinder head every 2-3 thousand kilometers. When the engine is operated under vibration conditions, this can cause the screws to loosen, so they must be periodically checked and tightened with proper force.

Description of the cylinder head of the VAZ 2106

The cylinder head (cylinder head) is an integral part of any internal combustion power unit. This mechanism controls the supply of the combustible mixture to the cylinders and the removal of exhaust gases from them. The unit has inherent faults, the detection and elimination of which are worth dwelling on in more detail.

Purpose and principle of operation

The main purpose of the cylinder head is to ensure the tightness of the cylinder block, that is, to create sufficient obstacles for gases to escape outside. In addition, the block head solves a whole range of tasks that ensure the functioning of the engine:

• forms closed combustion chambers;
• participates in the work of the State Russian Museum;
• is used in the engine lubrication and cooling system. For this purpose, the head has corresponding channels;
• participates in the operation of the ignition system, since spark plugs are located in the cylinder head.

The cylinder head is located on top of the engine and is a cover that ensures the tightness and rigidity of the engine

For all of the above systems, the cylinder head is a housing element that ensures the rigidity and integrity of the power unit structure. If a malfunction occurs with the cylinder head, normal engine operation is disrupted. Depending on the nature of the breakdown, there may be problems with both the ignition, lubrication and cooling systems, which require prompt repair.

The principle of operation of the cylinder head comes down to the following steps:

1. The camshaft is driven from the engine crankshaft through a timing chain and sprocket.
2. The camshaft cams act on the rockers at the right moment, opening and closing the cylinder head valves at the right moment, filling the cylinders with the working mixture through the intake manifold and releasing exhaust gases through the exhaust.
3. The valves operate in a certain sequence, depending on the position of the piston (intake, compression, stroke, exhaust).
4. The coordinated operation of the chain drive is ensured by a tension device and a damper.

What does it consist of?

The cylinder head of the “six” is 8-valve and consists of the following structural parts:

• head gasket;
• timing mechanism;
• cylinder head housing;
• chain drive;
• the combustion chamber;
• tension device;
• spark plug holes;
• planes for mounting intake and exhaust manifolds.

Design of the VAZ 2106 cylinder head: 1 - spring plate; 2 — guide sleeve; 3 - valve; 4 — internal spring; 5 - outer spring; 6 — lever spring; 7 — adjusting bolt; 8 — valve drive lever; 9 - camshaft; 10 — oil filler cap; 11 — cylinder head cover; 12 — spark plug; 13 - cylinder head

The node in question is common to four cylinders. Cast iron seats and valve bushings are installed in the body. The working edges of the seats are processed after they are installed in the body to ensure a clear fit of the valves. The holes in the bushings are also processed after pressing into the cylinder head. This is necessary so that the diameter of the holes in relation to the working planes of the seats is accurate. The bushings have spiral grooves to lubricate the valve stem. On top of the bushings are valve seals, which are made of special rubber and a steel ring. The collars fit tightly onto the valve stem and prevent lubricant from entering the combustion chamber through the gaps between the bushing wall and the valve stem. Each valve is equipped with two cylindrical springs, which are supported by special washers. On top of the springs there is a plate that holds two crackers on the valve stem, shaped like a truncated cone.

The valve mechanism ensures the intake of the working mixture into the cylinders and the exhaust gases

Cylinder head gasket

The head gasket ensures a tight fit of the cylinder head to the cylinder block. The material used to make the seal is reinforced asbestos, which is able to withstand the high temperatures that arise during operation of the power unit. In addition, reinforced asbestos can withstand high pressure under different engine loads.

The cylinder head gasket ensures a tight connection between the cylinder block and the head

Timing mechanism

The gas distribution device consists of a valve mechanism and a chain drive. The first of them is responsible for the operation of the valves and consists of direct intake and exhaust elements, springs, levers, seals, bushings and a camshaft. The design of the second includes a double-row chain, a sprocket, a damper, a tension device and a shoe.

Diagram of the camshaft drive mechanism and auxiliary units: 1 - camshaft sprocket; 2 - chain; 3 — chain damper; 4 — oil pump drive shaft sprocket; 5 — crankshaft sprocket; 6 — limit finger; 7 — tensioner shoe; 8 — chain tensioner

Cylinder head housing

The cylinder head is made of aluminum alloys and is fixed to the cylinder block through a gasket using ten bolts, which are tightened in a certain order and with a given force. The cylinder head has spark plug wells on the left side into which the spark plugs are screwed. On the right side of the body there are channels and planes, to which the intake and exhaust system manifolds are attached through a seal. The head is closed on top with a valve cover, which prevents oil from leaking out of the engine. The tensioner and timing gear drive are mounted at the front.

The cylinder head housing is made of aluminum alloys

When Bolts Need Replacement

Before you begin tightening the bolts, you should inspect them. A visual assessment of the condition is not enough; it is necessary to check the fastener parameters. He must:

• have dimensions 12/120 mm;
• be with intact thread;
• have no curvature along the entire length.

Some mechanics recommend regularly screwing new bolts into the cylinder head. Others adhere to the rule that replacement should only be carried out if the fastener is screwed into the socket tightly. It is best not to skimp on bolts, since using a component that is obviously stretched increases the risk of its metal breaking. The consequences of this are almost unpredictable; in most cases, it will be possible to restore the operation of the power plant only with the help of specialists.

Cylinder head repair

If problems arise with the cylinder head of the sixth model Zhiguli that require removal of the unit from the car, then repair work can be carried out in a garage, having prepared the appropriate tools and components.

Removing the head

To remove the cylinder head you will need the following tool:

• knob with extension;
• a set of keys;
• ratchet handles;
• heads for 13 and 19.

The sequence of actions for dismantling the unit is as follows:

1. Drain the coolant from the cooling system.
2. We remove the air filter with housing, carburetor, valve cover, disconnect the intake and exhaust manifolds, moving the latter to the side along with the “pants”.
3. We unscrew the fastening and remove the sprocket from the camshaft, and then the camshaft itself from the cylinder head.
4. Loosen the clamp and tighten the coolant supply hose to the heater.
5. Similarly, remove the pipes going to the thermostat and radiator.
6. Remove the terminal from the temperature sensor.
7. Using a 13 and 19 socket with a wrench and an extension, unscrew the bolts securing the cylinder head to the block.
8. We lift the mechanism and remove it from the engine.

Disassembling the block head

Complete disassembly of the cylinder head is required for repairs such as replacing valves, guides or valve seats.

Tools you will need:

• key to 17 and 21;
• desiccant;
• oil seal remover;
• tweezers;
• tin solder rod d = 8 mm;
• hammer;
• long-nose pliers or magnetic handle.

We disassemble the node in this order:

1. We dismantle the rockers along with the locking springs.
2. We compress the springs of the first valve with a desiccant and remove the crackers with long-nose pliers.
3. Remove the valve plate and springs.
4. Use a puller to pull off the oil seal.
5. We remove the valve from the guide sleeve.
6. We carry out a similar procedure with the remaining valves.
7. Unscrew and remove the adjusting screw.
8. We unscrew the bushings of the adjusting screws with a 21 wrench.
9. Remove the locking plate.
10. After completing the repair procedure, we assemble the cylinder head in the reverse order.

Valve lapping

When replacing valves or seats, it is necessary to grind the elements together to ensure tightness. To work you will need:

• diamond paste;
• electric drill with speed control.

We grind the valves as follows:

1. Apply rubbing paste to the valve plate.
2. We insert the valve into the guide sleeve and clamp the rod into the chuck of the electric drill.
3. Turn on the drill at low speeds, press the valve to the seat and rotate it first in one direction, then in the other.
4. We grind the part until a smooth matte mark appears on the seat and chamfer of the valve plate.
5. We wash the valves and seats with kerosene, put them in place, replacing the seals.

Replacing saddles

To replace the seat, it will need to be removed from the cylinder head. Since in garage conditions there is no special equipment for these purposes, welding or improvised tools are used for repairs. To dismantle the seat, the old valve is welded to it and then knocked out with a hammer. The new part is installed in the following sequence:

1. We heat the cylinder head to 100˚C, and cool the seats in the freezer for two days.
2. Use a suitable tool to drive the parts into the head body.
3. After the cylinder head has cooled, we countersink the seats.
4. We cut the chamfers with cutters at different angles.

Video: replacing the cylinder head valve seat

Replacing bushings

Valve guides are replaced using the following set of tools:

• hammer;
• mandrel for knocking out and pressing in bushings;
• development at 8.025 mm;
• open-end wrench for reamer.

The bushing replacement process consists of the following steps:

1. We knock out the old bushing using a hammer and a suitable adapter.
2. Before installing new parts, place them in the refrigerator for 24 hours, and heat the block head in water at a temperature of +60˚C. We hammer the bushing in with a hammer until it stops, having first put on the stopper.
3. Using a reamer, we make holes according to the diameter of the valve stem.

Recommended tightening torque

Before you begin tightening, several conditions must be met:

1. Clean the working surface of the hole and the threaded connection of the screw as much as possible. Before this, you will need to remove contaminants from the intake manifold, block and the cylinder itself. Be careful not to damage the surface of the parts, especially if you use a wire brush. In most cases, it is better to use a simple rag for cleaning.
2. Lubricating the screw holes is mandatory. Before screwing the bolts into the blind sockets, you need to take a small amount of lubricant, otherwise you will not be able to screw them in all the way.
3. If you are installing new bolts, lubricate the threads with a small amount of clean engine oil. For old fasteners, simply clean it.

You need to tighten the cylinder head fasteners of a VAZ-2106 car according to the following diagram:

• central (1 and 2);
• two at the top and bottom, located on each side of the center (3, 4, 5, 6);
• extreme right (7, 8);
• extreme left (9, 10);
• 11 screw (only on the third circle).

You need to work in accordance with the diagram using a torque wrench. That is why it is so important to observe the tightening torque, as in the table:

It is necessary to do the work in three steps to avoid deformation of the cylinder block. On the first lap you fix the cylinder head cover, and on the second you finally tighten it. On the third circle you will not need to touch the main fasteners, but only deal with the eleventh, located outside the main group.

Video.

It is recommended to replace the gaskets on the VAZ intake manifold after each removal. But I had to do this prematurely, as I discovered a significant air leak, which mainly manifested itself on a cold engine. Every cold start was accompanied by a terrible tripping.

In addition to the tripping when cold, there was a slight drop in speed when sharply pressing the gas pedal. This applies to both a cold and a hot engine.

A homemade smoke generator made from a cigarette helped me detect the air leak. A very simple and primitive contraption that has helped me out more than once.

My car (Kalina 1.6 8 valves) has a plastic intake manifold (receiver). The same will be installed on all VAZ family cars with an 8-valve 1.6-liter engine (2114, 2110, etc.). 4 rubber rings act as gaskets. According to reviews, black rings last much longer than white ones. And I was convinced of this personally - these gaskets lasted for about six months and began to let air through. They felt like plastic to the touch. Unfortunately, I didn’t find black ones, so I’ll install white ones again. I hope these last longer.

To remove the intake manifold (receiver), you must first unscrew the corrugation from the air filter, the throttle cable, and the small crankcase ventilation hoses. I will not remove the throttle and its heating.

The intake manifold is attached to 5 studs - one in the center, two on the sides. To unscrew them you will need a 13mm socket. After unscrewing the nuts, you need to remove the receiver itself from the studs and move it to the side. Remove the old gaskets and wipe the seats from oil and dirt. You also need to wipe the seat on the engine.

The manifold has special grooves for guides on the gaskets. The gaskets must be installed with the higher side in the plastic manifold. It is the guide that will prevent you from making mistakes.

I additionally coated the areas near the guides with sealant on the outside of the gasket. Because it felt like that was where the ring entered the groove the deepest. In addition, there was a place for air leaks on the old gaskets.

After all procedures, the intake manifold can be installed back. I couldn't find any information on how tightly to tighten the mounting nuts. I delayed it at my own peril and risk. The main thing is not to overtighten, as the manifold is plastic and can crack.

This is how I replaced the old intake manifold gaskets on my Kalina with new ones. There is no more air leakage, the engine stopped stalling when cold and began to behave much better when warm.