Strong and weak spark on spark plugs, reasons

No spark at the spark plugs

Lack of spark on the spark plugs is one of two basic faults most often found on cars (the second is no fuel supply to the engine).
Loss of spark or weak spark from the spark plugs indicates problems in the ignition system. Either in a high voltage circuit or a low voltage circuit. In this case, the car engine will not start at all (both cold and hot), or will start and stall (if there is a spark, but weak). Let's consider the main reasons for the loss of spark on carburetor engines of VAZ 2105, 2107, 2108, 2109, 21099 cars with contact and non-contact ignition systems. Then we remove the central high-voltage wire, insert a working spark plug into its tip and place it on the engine (so that there is contact with ground). While the assistant turns the engine with the starter, you need to visually verify the absence or presence of a spark at the spark plug. A spark has appeared - the spark plugs themselves, the high-voltage wires or the ignition distributor in the distributor are faulty. There was still no spark - problems with the switch, Hall sensor, ignition coil. Lost spark, reasons for contactless ignition system

1. The ignition coil has failed.

Checking the ignition coil. The ignition coil is usually checked for winding resistance and insulation resistance using a tester. For oil-filled coils (27.3705) and dry coils (3122.3707), the resistance is slightly different. Read more: “Checking the ignition coil.” In the absence of a special device for testing, we use the method of replacing our coil with another one that is known to be good.

checking the primary winding of the ignition coil

1. The switch is faulty.

Checked with an oscilloscope. Since not everyone has it, we use the replacement method - instead of our switch we install a known good one. You can very roughly estimate the performance of the switch based on the voltmeter readings after turning on the ignition (see “Checking the switch”).

1. Hall sensor is faulty.

It is checked with a voltmeter according to a special connection diagram (see “Checking the Hall sensor”). If there is no voltmeter, we use the replacement method.

Hall sensor, check

1. Open circuit in low voltage circuit.

Using the diagram, we look through the wires included in the ignition system, and if necessary, “ring” to detect a “break.” See "Contactless Ignition System Diagram".

In the contact ignition system, the list of malfunctions leading to the disappearance of the spark is as follows:

1. The mechanical breaker in the distributor is faulty.

Its contacts have oxidized, collapsed or burned. There is no gap between the breaker contacts.

breaker contacts

1. The ignition coil is faulty.
2. "Open" in the low voltage circuit.

Notes and additions

— To quickly find the reason for the disappearance of the spark on the spark plugs, you need to know the principle of operation of both contact and non-contact ignition systems (for more details, see “The principle of operation of the ignition system”). The purpose of the ignition system is to generate high voltage current at the right moment and supply it to the spark plugs. This is accomplished by interrupting the low voltage current in the primary winding circuit of the ignition coil. In a contactless system, the switch interrupts the current based on a signal from the Hall sensor; in a contact system, a mechanical breaker with contacts is driven by a tetrahedron on the distributor shaft.

More articles on the ignition system of VAZ cars

What to do

If the engine runs or starts poorly, motorists are interested in how to strengthen the spark on the spark plugs. First, you need to establish the cause of the breakdown by checking the previously mentioned components and elements using a multimeter and visual inspection. Many faults can be seen by eye.

Often, a simple replacement of spark plugs or glow plugs can help improve the spark (depending on the type of internal combustion engine (petrol or diesel). It is advisable to buy elements from well-known manufacturers in the mid-price category, beware of counterfeits. Faulty spark plugs can often be identified by their appearance. In addition, their replacement is required with the following symptoms:

• Engine tripping.
• Poor starting of the power plant, especially in cold or wet weather.
• White smoke from the exhaust pipe of a car with a diesel engine.
• Reduced vehicle dynamics.
• Increased fuel consumption.

Comparing spark plugs before replacing them
It is worth noting that sometimes similar symptoms are observed when other parts of the car fail. Therefore, if the spark plugs visually look serviceable, it is better to check other components and elements. If you were unable to determine the cause yourself or replacing the SZ did not help, it is recommended to contact a car service for professional diagnostics.

The spark power may not be enough if the ignition coil is broken or the high-voltage wires fail. Therefore, they should be tested with a multimeter. Replacing these parts often helps improve the spark.

Checking the coil with a multimeter

Increased power is often achieved by replacing the distributor. Repairing the low voltage circuit or improving the conductivity of the connection contacts often helps solve the problem. To search for an open or short circuit, use a multimeter. Often, replacing or charging the battery with a charger helps increase spark power. Everyone knows that a weak battery does not contribute to good engine starting, especially in winter. Therefore, it must be checked before the cold weather. If it is old or poorly charged, it should be replaced or charged. Recharging may also be required after the machine has been idle for a long time.

Charging the battery using a charger

But sometimes, in order to completely get rid of the problem, you only need to modify the spark plugs yourself. This is primarily relevant for owners of used domestic cars or old inexpensive foreign cars. This method is also suitable for some budget-conscious motorists. For this modification you need to purchase:

• High voltage copper wires.
• Spark booster.
• Kit for installing contactless ignition (if the car has an old contact system).
• Spark plugs without resistors.

The method consists of several stages. You don't have to do all of them. Perhaps one of the proposed solutions is enough for someone to increase the spark. Refinement is carried out according to the following algorithm:

Install spark plugs without resistors. This should increase the amount of free energy by about 50%.

Spark plugs without resistors Install high-voltage copper wires. This will help reduce resistance in the system. This means the spark will be stronger.

High-voltage wires with a copper core Increase the distance between the electrodes on the spark plug. After this, it is advisable to test it in a pressure chamber. It is advisable to choose the longest interval at which the spark is stable. This will significantly improve engine performance and starting.

Increased distance between electrodes Install a spark amplifier on the spark plug. This device is sold in car dealerships. It consists of two contact connections and a capacitor. One of the contacts needs to be attached to the SZ, and the other to the high-voltage wire. This will increase the temperature of the spark at the plug.

Installed spark amplifier Install a modern contactless ignition system. It works more stable than the contact one. The latter is not used today on new cars and is found only on cars produced relatively long ago.

Contactless ignition system kit
Almost all modifications can be done independently with minimal knowledge of car repair and maintenance. But, if such tuning yourself seems difficult, it is better to contact a service station, where the problem with a weak spark will be solved by experienced specialists. True, the costs may increase several times.

Weak spark VAZ 2109

A couple of days ago there was very wet weather, fog, humidity at 100 percent. Owners of nines know that the car is very sensitive to wet weather. In damp conditions it stalls, pulls poorly, and sometimes has difficulty starting. I had the same thoughts, but a week passed, the weather had long since become warm and sunny, and the car still stuttered and jerked when accelerating. When you open the hood in the evening in the dark, the sparks that jump both on the ignition coil and between the high-voltage wires are very clearly visible.

Weak spark VAZ 2109

On one particularly damp day, even when I opened the hood during the day, I saw a spark leaving the central wire of the coil to the cooling system pipe. At the same time, the wires are seriously electrocuted due to the drizzle on them. And I also heard one interesting detail: from time to time you can clearly hear a spark flashing under the distributor cover. We need to look for what the problem is, fortunately there were a lot of spare parts lying around in the garage. First of all, I swapped all the spark plugs, I thought maybe one of the spark plugs was moping. At the same time, I paid attention to one important detail: the spark plugs of the first and second cylinders were black, while the third and fourth were normal, with a golden tint. But then I didn’t attach any importance to this, although the answer was hidden in these details. I changed the distributor cap with the slider - the spark still goes away, and you can hear it very well. I replaced the ignition coil and switch - zero results. I've heard a lot of smart people about the breaking of the VAZ 2108 2109 21099 distributor bearing, which causes the spark to go astray. Indeed, the distributor shaft has a little play, so I decided to change it out of harm’s way. And again by. Then I accidentally noticed: when you look at the spark, taking the wires out of the distributor, that on two cylinders the spark is powerful, orange, and on two it is blue and small. I immediately remembered two candles with a black coating. It was on them that there was a weak spark. I took a multimeter and measured the resistance of the high-voltage wires of the VAZ 2109: first: 1 MΩ, second: 1.2 MΩ, third: 10 kOhm, fourth: 7 kOhm.

No spark VAZ (injector, 8 valves)

The other day, out of the blue, the car (Kalina 1.6, 8 valves) began to shake terribly. Diagnostics showed misfires in cylinders 1 and 4. After a little checking (see how to check correctly here), I came to the conclusion that there was no spark. And only in cylinders 1-4.

Next, in order to find out the reason for the loss of spark, I will go in order.

The first thing to check is the spark plugs. The spark plug looked normal, so I didn’t have much hope that replacing it would fix the situation. And so it happened - the new spark plug still refused to produce a spark.

The second is checking high-voltage wires. They are checked with a conventional multimeter in resistance measurement mode. The resistance should be within 15 kOhm. The wires also turned out to be fine.

Third, and probably most important, is the ignition coil. She, like no one else, is responsible for the spark. Its operability is also checked with a multimeter in continuity and resistance measurement mode. First you need to check the resistance between pins 1-4 and 2-3. It should be about 4 kOhm. If the tester shows infinity, then the coil is broken and must be completely replaced. Next, check the resistance between pins 1a and 1b. There shouldn't be a break here. And the last thing is to check the central contact for breakdown to the housing. The tester should show infinity.

My reel passed the test perfectly. It seems that all the main parts are working properly, so why is there no spark? After digging a little on the Internet, I realized that I still need to check the circuit from the ECU to the coil itself.

A 3-pin chip is placed on the ignition coil, therefore you need to check these 3 wires. The central contact is +12V, which is constantly supplied when the ignition is on. The extreme contacts - 1a and 1b - provide a control signal (negative) at the moment when a spark is needed. How can all this be checked? Very simple - using a regular light bulb.

You need a lamp with a power of 1-2 W or an LED with an additional resistance of 500-700 Ohms.

We connect the lamp to the central terminal and contact 1a and ask a partner to crank the engine a little (first remove the fuel pump fuse and relieve the pressure in the rail). When cranking the starter, the lamp should flash. The same procedure must be done with pin 1b - the lamp should also blink.

When I turned on the ignition, the lamp started to light up, just constantly on (pin 1b and central). This means that the control wire has a short to ground somewhere or that the transistor (VT1) in the ECU is broken. To find out, we need to find the ECU, disconnect the wiring harness from it, find the wires we need (1b) and test them for integrity.

Having found the contact diagram, I found out that contact 1b goes to pin 5 of the ECU, 1a goes to pin 2, 3 goes to ground of the ignition circuit. I rang them for integrity - they were all intact. I called ground and everything is fine too. Therefore, you need to check the transistor in the controller itself.

My car has a January 7.2 controller. Inside there are 2 transistors that pass control signals to pins 1a and 1b of the ignition coil. So one of these transistors was broken, i.e. was constantly in the open position.

How to check the transistor for serviceability? It has 3 pins - 2 of which are soldered. It is necessary to ring each outer terminal with the central one. In both cases, the tester should not beep. The contacts must not be closed.

Now all that’s left to do is to unsolder the broken transistor (its marking is gb10nb37lz), solder a new one in its place and rejoice at the spark that appears.

Carburetor engine ignition system

All “nines” are equipped from the factory with a contactless ignition system. Structurally, it consists of the following elements:

• ignition switch;
• high voltage coils;
• switch;
• ignition distributor with Hall sensor;
• four high-voltage wires;
• spark plugs.

If any of the first four elements malfunction, the ignition system stops working and starting the engine becomes impossible. The situation can be corrected by diagnosing and repairing the breakdown.

How does the ignition system of a carburetor VAZ 2109 work?

To understand why the spark disappears on the VAZ 2109 (carburetor), let's look at how its ignition system works. Let's start from the very beginning - with the castle. When the driver inserts and turns the key in the ignition, electrical current flows from the battery to the coil. It performs the function of a transformer, converting standard 12 V into 25000-30000 V. From the coil, high voltage current is supplied to the ignition distributor, driven by the engine camshaft, and from it through high-voltage wires to the spark plugs. The switch participates in this entire process, ensuring the formation of current pulses of the required magnitude in the coil, as well as stabilizing the voltage in the system.

Device Features

The ignition coil serves to produce a spark coming from the spark plug electrodes. To put it briefly and simply, this is a small transformer that operates in pulse mode and converts 12 volts from the car into 20-30 thousand volts at the output. High-voltage wires are used to transmit the impulse, which also sometimes cause coil malfunctions.

The distributor-type ignition system works simply - the distributor (distributor) receives a low-voltage pulse from the car's network, transmits it to the coil, and it, in turn, transforms the pulse into a high-voltage pulse. Next, the distributor distributes sparks among the cylinders depending on the order of their operation.

Structurally, the VAZ 2109 coil consists of a pair of windings - secondary and primary.

• The primary winding has fewer turns, but wires with a larger cross-section;
• The secondary winding of a coil with a large number of turns, but a smaller wire cross-section.

Windings

Signs of breakdown

Often the spark at the carburetor disappears unexpectedly when the driver is not prepared for such a turn of events. But if you have enough experience and pay close attention to the behavior of your car, you can detect signs of a malfunction before the spark disappears and the engine does not start.

High voltage wires

So, if you suspect that the spark on the VAZ 2109 (carburetor) is missing, first of all you should check the integrity and fastenings of the high-voltage wires. To do this, lift the hood and conduct a visual inspection of the conductors going from the coil to the ignition distributor, as well as from it to the spark plugs. Check that they are securely fastened and that there is no dirt or moisture on their contacts.

To determine whether the armored wires are working properly, they can be checked using a car tester turned on in ohmmeter mode. The resistance of each of them, depending on the brand and manufacturer, should be from 3.5 to 10 kOhm. If it is higher, you can be sure that the spark on the VAZ 2109 spark plug has disappeared for this very reason. You need to replace high-voltage wires as a set.

The performance of the distributor and spark plugs

If everything is fine on the section of the circuit opposite the coil, the causes of the breakdown lie in the failure of the distributor or spark plugs. You should check the contacts of the distributor cover and the slider. All connections must be clean, free of black deposits, stains, dirt, moisture and oxidation. If there is such contamination, we clean it. If the integrity of the cover is damaged, it must be replaced.

Even if the distributor is working, there is still no spark on the VAZ 2109? It is necessary to check the condition of the spark plugs. A too rich working mixture in the combustion chamber causes damage to them. The spark plugs become covered with soot, which reduces current conductivity, and the contact between the electrodes deteriorates. It is necessary to clean the spark plugs with a wire brush and adjust the gasoline supply to the carburetor.

Candles can also be "flooded". This happens when, with the air damper closed (on choke), you try to start the engine several times to no avail. In this case, it is necessary to dry the candles over the fire.

Candles

In the carburetor VAZ 2109, spark plugs fail more often than other elements of the system. This is due to poor fuel quality, incorrect fuel supply settings, and the spark plugs themselves. In addition to the fact that there are a lot of fakes on the auto parts market, not every owner of a “Nine” bothers with the heat rating or the gaps between the electrodes provided for by the manufacturer’s recommendations. So it turns out that having bought seemingly new and branded spark plugs, we have an unstable idle or even tripping. In the future, these seemingly minor faults can lead to more serious problems.

Ignition of the VAZ 2109 requires four spark plugs: one per cylinder. They are checked one by one. First, one of them is unscrewed and visually inspected for the integrity of the ceramic insulator, the condition of the electrodes and the size of the gap between them. If, at first glance, everything is in order with the candle, you need to determine its performance. To do this, put a cap of a high-voltage wire on it and connect it to the ground with a skirt. Next, you need to attract an assistant and ask him to start the engine. When the starter begins to rotate the crankshaft, a steady blue or light blue spark should jump between the electrodes. If it has a different shade (red, greenish), this may indicate a possible breakdown of the insulator or an insufficiently high voltage. If there is no spark at all, most likely the spark plug has failed. But other faults cannot be ruled out here. This is why it is necessary to check all spark plugs. If only one of them does not work, try replacing it with a known working one. But if there is no spark on all the spark plugs, you need to look deeper for the problem.

The candles are flooded in the cold, what should I do?

If you still couldn’t avoid an unpleasant situation, don’t panic, everything can be solved!

Method No. 1, or what the manufacturer advises

1. Unscrew the wet spark plugs from the injector.
2. Dry them.
3. Crank the starter for 10-15 seconds, only then install the dismantled parts in place and start the engine.

Method number 2 - logical

1. Remove the car battery and charge it.
2. Unscrew the jammed ignition elements and install new ones in their place.
3. Return the battery to its place and you are ready to go to your destination.

Method No. 3 – folk-practical

1. Press the gas pedal all the way to the floor and crank the engine with the starter for 10-12 seconds.
2. Release the gas pedal. The engine should start.

Method No. 4 - the old “grandfather’s”

1. Unscrew the gasoline-soaked spark plugs and use an old toothbrush or metal brush to thoroughly clean them of carbon deposits and other contaminants.
2. Dry the cleaned parts well: with a hairdryer, on the stove, on a radiator or in the oven.
3. Check the gaps and, if everything is in order, install everything in its place.

And so that the problem does not bother you anymore, make it a habit to ALWAYS:

• refuel only with high-quality fuel;
• fill your vehicle only with good motor oil with appropriate parameters for the cold season;
• monitor the battery charge and the serviceability of the starter and high voltage wires;
• clean and adjust injector nozzles in a timely manner;
• purchase spare parts, including spark plugs, only from trusted manufacturers with a good reputation.

Egnition lock

The next diagnostic step is to check the ignition switch. To do this, we will need the same car tester, but already turned on in voltmeter mode. Connect the positive probe of the device to the “+B” terminal on the ignition coil, and connect the negative probe to ground. Next, turn on the ignition and look at the tester readings. Lack of voltage is evidence that the lock contact group is faulty. In this case, the repair (VAZ 2109) involves its replacement.

Coil

As we have already said, a coil is a transformer that produces high voltage current. It has two windings that are not insured against short circuit or breakage. If 2109 (carburetor) does not start, checking the coil is mandatory. Moreover, determining its performance is quite simple. To do this, with the engine turned off, remove the central high-voltage wire coming from the coil from the ignition distributor cover. It has a protective cap. You need to connect the spark plug to it and attach it with its skirt to the ground. After this, ask an assistant to turn on the ignition and crank the starter. If the coil is working properly, a spark will appear between the spark plug electrodes. A faulty transformer cannot boast of this.

Important: under no circumstances hold the candle with your hand or pliers without insulating the handles. The voltage produced by the coil reaches several tens of thousands of volts, and even taking into account the relatively small current, there is a threat of injury from it. You should also not check for a spark without a spark plug, i.e. between the wire core and ground. This will damage the switch.

In search of a spark: candles

If there is still voltage on the central high-voltage wire, it is necessary to determine whether it is distributed and supplied to the spark plugs. To do this, you need to determine whether the distributor and Hall sensor are in working order, whether the high-voltage wires are broken and whether the spark plugs are working. Let's start from the end.

Unscrew the first spark plug, place it on the valve cover without disconnecting the high-voltage wire from it, but disconnecting it from the other spark plugs, and ask an assistant to try to start the engine with the starter. Visually determine if a spark appears between the electrodes. If there is one, screw the spark plug back in and repeat the procedure for each individual cylinder. Be aware of the risk of electric shock, use pliers!

If there is no spark on the VAZ 2109 spark plugs (carburetor), try installing new ones or known good ones instead. The situation has not changed? We continue diagnostics.

Distributor

After the coil has been checked and the diagnostic results show that it is in good working order, we move on to the ignition distributor (distributor). Disconnect the high-voltage wires from its cover and unscrew the two screws securing it. Remove the cover and inspect it for integrity. Pay attention to the condition of the carbon contacts and the distributor runner. If any malfunctions are found, the cover (assembly) will need to be replaced.

The Hall sensor serves to transmit control and correction pulses to the switch depending on the number of engine revolutions. It is installed inside the ignition distributor, but to check it, it is not necessary to disassemble this element. All you need is a car tester or a multimeter turned on in voltmeter mode, as well as a couple of pins.

Find the green and black and white wires in the connecting block connected to the distributor. These are the sensor terminals. On these wires you need to pierce the insulation with pins, and connect the probes of the measuring device to them. Have an assistant slowly turn the engine crankshaft by hand.

If the Hall sensor is working properly, when rotating the device will show voltage surges from 0.4 to 12 V. If it has become unusable, the device will be “silent”. In this case, repairs (VAZ 2109) will be limited to replacing the sensor.

Stage one

Usually the symptoms of difficulty are the following: the starter rotates regularly in its own standard mode, but the engine does not want to start. One of the most possible circumstances is a fuel pump that does not start. When on injection “tens” it is submersible and is located directly in the tank.

There is an option to check the element by the presence of operating sound. Turn on the ignition - there should be a rumble in the area of ​​the rear seats. He is absent from time to time. In our version, you should check the fuses. The VAZ-2110 is a fuel-injected car, and the fuse box is located on the side of the center console of the unfamiliar front passenger. You need to unscrew the fasteners, then remove the cover, check the fuses for functionality and change them as necessary. In this case, the elements are 100% serviceable, then you need to check whether the relay will turn on, both the main one and the fuel pump. Of course, you can feel the moment of switching on with your finger. A corresponding click will also be heard.

If the fuel pump is operational, use a pressure gauge to check the presence of fuel there. If there is no pressure gauge, then press on the spool at the bottom of the fuel rail. myth element may be in a protective cap. The pressure will be completely tangible, although its power cannot be found. A running pump and no pressure indicates an obstruction in the fuel line. This is caused by a clogged fuel filter.

Switch

Finally, let's talk about the switch. Its function is to generate correct electrical pulses in the primary winding of the coil based on data received from the Hall sensor. In addition, it limits the maximum current and voltage in accordance with the parameters of the on-board network.

It is quite difficult to check a switch without special equipment. The easiest way is to connect a known good element and check the operation of the ignition system. Some VAZ owners, taught by bitter experience, often even carry a spare switch with them, and if something happens, they simply put it in the place of the failed one.

Device and purpose

So, what device and what functions does the ignition distributor perform, what is its location and what is the order of the wires on the VAZ 2109 distributor? The VAZ 2109 distributor is one of the components of the ignition systems. Its purpose is to regulate and supply an electrical impulse to the switch of the coil itself. It also distributes the spark to the spark plugs, taking into account a certain sequence.

In domestic "nines" two types of VAZ ignition systems can be used - contact and contactless. Accordingly, two types of distributors can be used. These devices may differ from each other only in design, but not in function. In particular, we are talking about the presence of contacts and sensors. In the contact system, a breaker is used directly, and in the non-contact version, a special sensor is used. As for the main technical characteristics, they are generally identical.

Distributor device for "nine"

If we talk about the device, the VAZ 2109 uses a special distribution element equipped with a Hall sensor. This unit itself is designed for four sparks, it also has built-in centrifugal and vacuum advance controllers.

In accordance with the diagram below, the main components of the design are as follows:

1. Sealing ring. Thanks to it, the tightness of the structure as a whole is ensured.
2. Device coupling.
3. Washers for adjustment.
4. A roller with a centrifugal device installed on it.
5. Base plate.
6. A disk, the so-called screen, designed to protect the structure from dust.
7. Runner. In practice, the distributor slider is a fairly reliable element, but it can also fail.
8. Directly Hall sensor.
9. Lock washer.
10. Thrust washer.
11. The body itself, inside which the structure is located.
12. Vacuum corrector.

Device connection diagram

VAZ 2109 carburetor has no spark - search for reasons

The carburetor "nine" does not produce a spark. Why does this happen and what to do? If there is no spark in the VAZ 2109 carburetor, the reasons lie either in the malfunction of one of the elements or in the wiring that connects them. You can independently identify the cause of the unit failure. To troubleshoot, you will need an assistant to turn on the ignition. You will need a multimeter, as well as spare parts (switch, Hall sensor). To find a breakdown, you need to understand the sequence of connecting the circuit elements and at least in general know the principle of the appearance of a spark on the spark plugs. Let's look at it and check all the devices for functionality.

The main reasons for the lack of ignition

The principle of operation is clear. All malfunctions of the VAZ 2109 ignition system are associated with the failure of one of the above elements. If there is no spark on the VAZ 2109 carburetor, it means there is a malfunction:

• switch;
• Hall sensor;
• timing belt;
• ignition coils;
• ignition switch contact groups;
• distributor cover contacts;
• candles (“drenched”, burnt);
• circuit wiring.

If the commutator is faulty, then the voltage value to the coil is not converted. A failed Hall sensor does not supply current to the switch. If the timing belt breaks, the operation of the system is disrupted and EMF is not generated. A broken coil stops the chain moving on itself, the distributor contact does not receive voltage. Damaged distributor cover contacts prevent voltage from being applied to the spark plug.

The spark plug electrodes may not produce a spark due to carbon deposits or moisture on them. It happens that the culprit is the first element of the circuit: the ignition switch. A breakdown in its contact group does not start the starter. It is also possible that a banal damage to the wiring has occurred, causing the connection of the elements to disappear.

If there is no spark in the VAZ 2109 injector, the process of finding a breakdown is much more difficult. After all, the design of the system requires the presence of a separate ignition module controlled by the ECU.

How a spark is formed on a candle

By turning the key in the ignition, you turn the starter. Its function is to engage the gear with the flywheel to transmit torque to the flywheel. As soon as the parts are engaged, the moment is transferred - the key returns to its place. And during this time, while the key was turned, a number of processes should occur, as a result of which a spark appears on the candles.

The flywheel itself is mounted on the crankshaft and rotates it. From the crankshaft through the timing belt, rotational motion is transmitted to the camshaft. Simultaneously with the camshaft and at the same frequency, the shaft on which the distributor slider (ignition distributor) is located rotates. The cylindrical screen rotates and an electromagnetic field (EMF) is generated, the voltage value of which is read by a Hall sensor. Next, the switch comes into operation. This device converts the voltage to the required value and transmits it to the primary winding of the ignition coil.

An electromotive force is generated inside the coil and exits through the central electrode. From here the pulse is supplied to the central wire of the distributor, to which 4 spark plugs are connected. The distributor rotates, making contact with each of the spark plugs in turn. The spark plugs are screwed into the cylinder head, their electrodes are located in the combustion chamber.

As a result of a short circuit on the spark plugs, a voltage of 10–15 kV is achieved. This is enough for a spark to occur between the central and side electrodes of the spark plug.

Communities › UAZ drivers › Blog › Doesn’t start (very bad spark)

Good evening! I have a UAZ 31512. I took it recently, I want to make it for myself, I haven’t registered it here yet. Today, for no apparent reason, the UAZ suddenly stalled. Attempts to start it up were unsuccessful. I turned out the spark plugs and checked the spark, the spark is very weak and not constant. I changed the spark plugs a week ago for new ones, checked on the old spark plugs and the spark was also very weak and not constant. The distributor cover is new, I don’t know what else could be the reason, I’m not good at electrics. In the end, they dragged me home using a tie. Where to climb and what to dig in? And most importantly, how much money can this cost?

Comments 40

An electrician came today. The problem was found, the carburetor throws so much fuel that it floods the spark plugs, today I bought new spark plugs, installed them and the UAZ started. Now we need to find a good carburetor specialist.

What kind of ignition? Contact or non-contact?

If only I knew =) How to distinguish contact from non-contact?

I checked the ignition and it's contactless. What is the approximate cost of ignition ATE-2 on UAZ? And is it difficult to replace it?

Today we installed such a system, a distributor on the hall sensor, a 2108 coil and a commutator, set it up with a scrubscope, new armor plates and spark plugs, but bad luck, there is no idle only on the suction, what to do, the carb was adjusted half a year ago, do it again.

After aligning the distributor with the strobe light to the mark, you must also tighten it manually. And yes, how did everything work before the replacement?

I don’t know how to say it, in general, I had an underwater ignition and everything seemed to be humming, but the distributor began to stand out and rattle from it, as a result, on the trip it started grinding again, I took it off and twisted it a little and anointed it, but it stopped smoking, the spark plugs turned black and I decided no longer worry about this ignition and installed this, as I wrote above, today we rehearsed the carb, began to drive and keep it idle, but when you remove the armor from the spark plug, 1.2 stalls and 3 does not react, it’s kind of weak, 4 is also not to say that they were The changes are just a little bit, they did the head but one valve is rattling, in general something like this.

It's not a crime to rattle a valve. A squeezed one is evil, it can burn out. Black spark plugs = too much fuel, lighter has nothing to do with it. The intake manifold gasket needs to be soaked with water. Carb gasket too, by the way. And throttle shafts. And the engine should not shake at all at idle. And if you put your hand to the exhaust, there should be no spitting either at idle or at speed. I would put the lighter on a little later and look at the carb, it looks like it makes some kind of bodyagu instead of a mixture.

howling today I tested the adjusted carb and ignition, I didn’t start it right away in the morning, but I started it, warmed it up and drove off, the engine’s performance is much better, it pulls not bad either, the only thing is that when you press the gas sharply, it seems to stall or choke slightly and again the speed is normal, The car runs not bad, only today I noticed a new problem, the fuel pump was baked and as it turned out it was crooked on the plane, I had to straighten it and remove the rod by knocking out the cotter pin, but it was filled with paraffin or something, and I assembled everything and this rod was not closed with anything, and now Today I went uphill and the car stopped, somehow I came down and opened the hood, I looked and there was no gas in the filter, I started pumping and then I saw the rod came out and apparently it wasn’t pumping, the rod was driven in and sealed with sealant, in general, so far everything is working.

Failure when pressed sharply - the accelerator pump in the carb or twist the lighter. At the same time, the consumption will decrease - the cars don’t move, we press the pedal more, the consumption increases, but there is little sense.

We start checking with the coil

The high-voltage discharge comes from the ignition coil, so we check it first. Do not try to start the car more than three times, because you can drain the battery, and it is needed when performing the test. The coil is diagnosed as follows.

1. We take out the armored wire from the distributor cover.
2. We put on gloves or pick up pliers.
3. We bring the contact of the high-voltage wire to ground.
4. The second person turns on the ignition.

If a large blue spark appears, then the coil produces a discharge, everything is in order with it. The absence of a flash or a weak spark indicates that the problem is either in the coil itself or in the elements that go in the circuit before it. We check the functionality of the coil, switch, Hall sensor, and ignition switch.

If the readings are in order, we look further for why the spark disappears on the VAZ 2109 carburetor.

Checking the ignition coil on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

Checking the ignition coil (bobbin)

If such malfunctions occur in the operation of the engine of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars such as the disappearance of a spark or a weak spark, unstable idling, inability to adjust idle speed, difficult starting or impossibility of starting the engine, failures and jerks when starting and in motion, etc., It makes sense to check the functionality of the ignition coil.

Preparatory work

You can check the ignition coil on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars without removing it from the car.

• remove the negative terminal from the battery
• disconnect the high-voltage wire from the ignition coil
• disconnect the wires leading to the two terminals of the coil

To do this, use an 8 mm wrench to unscrew the nuts securing the wires to terminals K and B. Disconnect the wires, remembering their position, so as not to confuse them when installing them back.

Checking the coil

— Check the serviceability of the primary winding of the ignition coil

To do this, we connect one probe of the tester to terminal B and the second probe to terminal K - the terminal of the primary winding. We turn on the device in ohmmeter mode. The resistance of a serviceable primary winding of the ignition coil should be close to zero (0.4 - 0.5 Ohm).

— Check the serviceability of the secondary (high-voltage) winding of the ignition coil

To do this, connect one tester probe to terminal B of the ignition coil, and the second probe to the terminal for the high-voltage wire. We measure resistance. For a working secondary winding it should be 4.5 - 5.5 kOhm.

— Check the serviceability of the insulation (presence of a short circuit)

To do this, we connect one probe of the tester to terminal B of the ignition coil, and press the second probe to its body. The insulation resistance should be very high - 50 mOhm.

If at least one of the three checks shows a malfunction, the ignition coil should be replaced.

Notes and additions

Ignition coils installed on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars can be of two types: dry with a closed magnetic circuit (3122.3705) and oil-filled with an open magnetic circuit (8352.12, 027.3705, 27.3705, 27.3707-01, ATE1721). The winding resistances for them are slightly different. Coil 3122.3705 – primary winding 0.43±0.04 Ohm, secondary 4.08±0.4 kOhm. Coils 8352.15, etc. – primary winding 0.42±0.05 Ohm, secondary 5±1 kOhm. Measurements were carried out at +25 degrees.

• Vacuum ignition timing regulator for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars
• Malfunctions of the contactless ignition system of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars
• Malfunctions of the contact ignition system of VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107, 2121 cars and their modifications
• Spark plug faults
• Malfunctions of the distributor of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars
• Features of installing a distributor on the engine of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars
• Selection of NGK spark plugs for carburetor and injection engines of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars
• The procedure for connecting high-voltage wires to the distributor cover on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars
• Applicability of spark plugs on VAZ cars
• Checking the contactless ignition system of carburetor engines of VAZ 2108, 21081, 21083, 2109, 21091, 21093, 21099
• Checking the vacuum ignition timing regulator on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099
• Checking high-voltage wires of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2105, 2107 cars
• Checking the Hall sensor on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars
• Checking the ignition coil on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars
• Checking the switch of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars
• Decoding the markings of domestic spark plugs
• Spark plug
• NGK spark plugs for classics (VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107)
• Setting the ignition timing (ignition timing) on ​​cars 2108, 2109, 21099
• Setting the ignition timing (ignition timing) on ​​engines of VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107, 2121 cars and their modifications
• Centrifugal ignition timing regulator for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

Checking the switch, Hall sensor and ignition switch

Back along the circuit from the coil there is a voltage conversion switch. This device cannot be checked using a multimeter. Therefore, it is necessary to test replace the old switch with a new one. It is recommended to carry a spare device with you in such cases. If the reason was precisely the breakdown of the switch, then with the new device a spark should appear. If it is missing, the breakdown must be looked for elsewhere.

Perhaps the Hall sensor is faulty, which is why there is no spark on the VAZ 2109 carburetor. It will also not be possible to check it using a tester. We do the same as with the switch - install a new one. The difficulty is this: to get to the sensor, you need to disassemble the distributor.

If replacing the sensor does not produce results, we check the ignition switch. We set the multimeter to 20 V. Connect one probe to terminal B, the second to ground. If the battery is charged, the tester should show 12 V. If the voltage is significantly less, there is an open circuit in the lock contact group: either the wire is broken or the fuse is blown.

We look for the problem or completely replace the lock.

At the preparatory stage

In a situation where the VAZ 2109 (carburetor) does not start, we can assume that the problem is either in the power system or in the ignition. But, since we are talking about the latter, we will consider the problems associated with the supply of electric current to the candles.

In order to determine that the spark has disappeared on a VAZ 2109 (carburetor), we will need an assistant and the following tools:

• voltmeter (multimeter);
• spark plug key;
• pliers;
• crosshead screwdriver.