The engine stalled while driving, 21124, 16 cl. There is no spark in any cylinder.
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Only if the DPKV is faulty, the engine will not work. If any other sensor malfunctions, the engine somehow works in order to get home or to a service station.
And another reason when the engine stalls while driving is a broken timing belt.
You can also think about a faulty ignition module, but they mostly fail partially, that is, some cylinders will not get a spark, but others will; although, as an option, maybe he “quacked” the whole team. But if you have individual ignition coils, then this option is eliminated; all 4 pieces will not burn out at the same time.
If the engine does not start, but you can hear the fuel pump in the tank turning on and running, you need to check the operation of the ignition system. To do this, you need to check for the presence of a spark discharge on high-voltage wires. In this case, be sure to use a spark gap.
If you check for a break in the presence of a spark by placing the wire at a certain distance from the ground of the car, the ignition module or controller may fail due to the appearance of a large self-induction current with a large spark gap. In addition, you can get quite noticeable and unpleasant sensations when receiving an electric shock when the insulation breaks down. In the case when you check the spark discharge by placing a spark plug with a non-high-voltage wire on the engine body, also due to poor contact of the spark plug body with ground, a large self-induction current can form, which will lead to damage to the controller or ignition module.
The use of a spark gap is also more convenient, since most injection engines use static ignition distribution with the simultaneous supply of high voltage to two spark plugs. It is not difficult to make a spark gap yourself; here you can find several examples. A drawing of a spark gap for simultaneously checking a spark on four high-voltage wires and a photo for checking a spark on two high-voltage wires. PAfter connecting the spark gap, crank the engine with the starter and observe the presence of a spark discharge. The absence of a spark on one wire, when high voltage is distributed simultaneously to two spark plugs, indicates a breakdown to ground of the wire or the output of the ignition coil (ignition module).
A break in the wire or winding of the ignition coil (module) is also possible. If there is no spark at the same time on a pair of wires 1-4 or 2-3, then the ignition coil, ignition module or controller is faulty. Breakage of high-voltage wires also cannot be ruled out.
To check the integrity of high-voltage wires, it is necessary to check their resistance; it should not exceed 200 kOhm, and there should not be a large difference in resistance in a set of identical wires. To check the ignition coils or module, you need to check for the corresponding error codes in the controller's RAM. If the controller does not have a diagnostic function for the module or coils, then the easiest way is to replace the module with a known good one and repeat the test. If in this case there is no spark on the same wires, then the controller or the wires connecting it to the ignition coil (module) are faulty. When checking the presence of a spark discharge in a static ignition system with an ignition coil on each cylinder, if there is no spark on one of the coils, replace it with any serviceable one from any cylinder.
VAZ injector errors
Errors can relate to any part of the car:
- Sensors Most often, temperature sensors suffer, as they can overheat too much;
- Injectors. Mostly, problems are observed due to an open circuit, as a result of which they cannot light up in time. This leads to another problem - the spark has disappeared, so the engine does not start;
- Engine. The most common mistake is overheating. Most often, due to increased oiliness, the spark plugs also overheat, so a spark does not appear. As a result, the engine does not emit any signs of life;
- Valves. They can also be too dirty, which will cause them to close, so they will not pass the fuel-air mixture;
- Fans. If they do not work correctly, the machine overheats.
Common mistakes during diagnostics
Most people, due to ignorance of the VAZ 2110 injector machine, make many mistakes in the process of identifying problems.
Let's look at some of them:
- Many people make a common mistake: when they see that there is no spark, they want to check it for breaks. For this purpose, they place the wire close to the ground of the machine. But when performing such actions, the ignition module may break, so under no circumstances should you do this;
- Another problem is checking the spark discharge. If you place spark plugs on the engine body, a large induction current may appear. This occurs even due to slight contact of the spark plug with the ground, as a result of which the controller can also be damaged. Therefore, it is necessary to use a spark gap that will not allow the distribution of ignition with the same supply of high voltage to two spark plugs at once.
What to do if the spark in a VAZ 2110 car is lost?
In the VAZ 2110 car, injector errors appear quite often. You can see them on the on-board computer, but special tables are needed to decipher them. After all, the ECU produces errors in the form of codes that consist of the letter P and four numbers. Before you begin to solve the problem that has arisen, you should find out what problems there are in the VAZ car.
VAZ injector errors
Errors can relate to any part of the car:
- Sensors Most often, temperature sensors suffer, as they can overheat too much;
- Injectors. Mostly, problems are observed due to an open circuit, as a result of which they cannot light up in time. This leads to another problem - the spark has disappeared, so the engine does not start;
- Engine. The most common mistake is overheating. Most often, due to increased oiliness, the spark plugs also overheat, so a spark does not appear. As a result, the engine does not emit any signs of life;
- Valves. They can also be too dirty, which will cause them to close, so they will not pass the fuel-air mixture;
- Fans. If they do not work correctly, the machine overheats.
What if the spark is lost?
If the engine does not start, but sounds are made indicating that the fuel pump is working, you should pay attention to the operation of the ignition. First of all, you should check whether the spark has disappeared on the wires with high resistance
To do this, it is necessary to use a spark gap, as well as a Hall sensor, which checks the presence of a magnetic field.
When the spark gap is connected to a VAZ car, you need to crank the engine with the starter. As a rule, a spark appears during this process.
If it is not there, then there is no breakdown to ground of the wire. It is quite possible that the spark was lost due to a break in some wire.
If there is no spark on several wires at the same time, then the controller is most likely faulty.
Hall Sensor
The possibility of breaking high-resistance wires is also not worth it. To do this, you can use a Hall sensor, which helps measure the current in conductors, as well as their resistance
To check the operation of the ignition coils, you should pay attention to whether there are any error codes on the controller. If there is no spark after replacing the coil, then the controller is faulty
The main reasons for the lack of spark
General view of the engine 10-12 series 16 valves
Not all motorists know the reasons for the loss of spark, much less methods for diagnosing and troubleshooting problems. So, it is worth identifying the main reasons, and then deciphering why exactly they become the cause. Finally, you need to consider ways to eliminate the defect. So, what reasons could cause the spark to disappear:
All the reasons have been found and it is worth moving on to the process of eliminating this malfunction.
Are you giving me a spark? Troubleshooting!
First of all, it’s worth noting that you don’t need to rush to check right away. As practice shows, there is a certain sequence of actions and malfunctions that could lead to loss of spark on a 16-valve engine.
Fuel pump
Fuel pump made by Bosch
Ignition is not the first reason for the ignition failure on a car. Before getting into the electrical part of the car, it’s worth delving into the mechanics, so to speak. Turn on the ignition and listen to see if the gasoline pump is working . If it is silent, then you need to check whether gasoline is entering the cylinders.
It is worth starting the diagnostic procedure by checking the fuses for serviceability. Of course, you can only view the one that is responsible for the fuel pump (in this case, when you turn on the ignition, the pump will not pump), but it is recommended to diagnose everything for integrity. If at least one fails, it must be replaced.
The fuses are located to the left of the steering wheel under the light mode switch
If the previous procedure did not help, then we turn directly to the pump itself. For diagnostics, you will have to remove the entire module, which is located under the rear sofa, and disassemble it.
The pump itself is easy to check - the contacts are closed through the tester. If there are no readings, then the part has “died” and requires replacement. If the pump is “live”, then it is necessary to clean the contact group and check the wiring for breaks.
Spark plug
Location of spark plugs on the engine
The candle becomes the second boundary, which may cause the spark to disappear. We unscrew the elements and carry out visual diagnostics. If everything is clean and beautiful outside, then you need to measure the resistance and check the gap. Of course, you can check the performance of a spark plug on a special spark plug stand, but not everyone has one in their garage. Therefore, we do everything the old fashioned way.
We connect the spark plug to a high-voltage wire, which is connected to 1 cylinder, and with the outer side to the body to obtain ground, and provide an ignition contact.
When performing this operation, you should be extremely careful, since the voltage that enters the spark can be fatal. Thus, we check all the spark plugs for the presence of a spark.
An alternative way to check spark plugs
Checking the spark plug using a piezo element from a conventional lighter
Ignition coil
Repaired ignition coil
The ignition coil can be checked using a multimeter. If it is faulty, it is recommended to replace it, but there are brave souls who repair this unit. Of course, not everything always goes smoothly and often everything ends in one thing - the installation of a new one.
High voltage wires
Checking the high-voltage wire with a multimeter
A breakdown or failure of the wire will immediately become known as the car will start to shake. But, if the explosive wires are located incorrectly in the cylinders, then you will have to place them according to the connection diagram. The missing spark problem should go away.
Gas distribution mechanism
The last place to look for a missing spark is the timing belt. Misaligned valve timing can be a problem. This could happen due to incorrect installation of the deposit disk. It is located on the crankshaft pulley and serves as a reference synchronizer for the sensor. If it is positioned correctly, when 1 cylinder is in the TTM, the sensor is placed between the 19th and 20th teeth. You can eliminate the cause by setting the disk correctly to the marks.
Checking the electrical equipment of the VAZ 2110
If there is something to burn in the working cylinders, then you need to look for what will make the mixture burn
This means that you need to pay attention to the car's ignition system. This could be the ignition distributor, high-voltage coil and wires, spark plugs
It doesn’t happen that all devices fail at the same time, so we should talk about them separately. We will assume that the distributor is installed correctly; in this case, a failure may occur through a breakdown of the cover or slider, or a failure of the Hall sensor.
However, most often the cause is poor contact in the power connector of the ignition distributor. An ignition module or coils that do not produce high voltage to produce a spark at the spark plugs can create problems. Injectors work in conjunction with ignition modules, of which there are usually two per engine. One ensures the operation of cylinders 1 and 4, and the second - cylinders 2 and 3.
In these systems, the electronic control unit, which generates control pulses for all systems, including the ignition, may be problematic. This block can only be checked by replacing it. The same can be done with ignition modules.
Electrical diagram of VAZ 2110
Sometimes the malfunction may come from the high-voltage coil; it does not produce voltage that can form a spark to ignite the air-fuel mixture. You can check its operation if you unscrew the spark plug from the cylinder and, together with the high-voltage wire, ensure its contact with the engine ground. At this time, you need to crank the starter and watch the spark plug. The absence of a spark confirms that the ignition coil is faulty. It is impossible not to dwell on such elements of ignition systems as spark plugs.
They are the ones who ignite the combustible mixture in the working cylinders of the engine. During their operation, the metal parts of their electrodes burn out, after which the gap increases, starting the motor becomes more difficult, or even becomes impossible. Check the condition of the spark plugs regularly, especially their gap, then problems can be avoided. You can continue to review situations when the starter turns, but the VAZ 2110, 2112, 2114 does not start.
It is simply impossible to take into account absolutely all cases, but to avoid such situations, carry out routine maintenance of the machine in a timely manner, use only high-quality operating fluids.
The engine won't start?
If, as a result of the check, it became clear that the spark hits the spark plugs, but the VAZ 2110 injector engine still does not start, then it is also necessary to diagnose it. The faults that cause this problem can be serious or not very serious.
At the same time, it is sometimes possible to cope with their solution without anyone’s help:
- It is necessary to purchase a spark gap and a Hall Sensor, which is inexpensive, but has an irreplaceable purpose. With their help, you can find out about the presence of a spark in the candles;
- Check the spark plugs to see if they are OK. A spark gap can be used for this purpose. However, you need to remember that the controller will be broken if candles are placed on its body;
- Perform fuel pump diagnostics. When you try to start a VAZ 2110 car, a characteristic sound will appear from under the rear seat. If there is no sound, then you need to check the fuses and the main relay. In a VAZ 2110 car they are located behind the side cover of the driver's seat.
If, after diagnostics, problems were identified with one of these elements, then you can fix them yourself. Usually the spark plugs begin to work after proper wiping, although this does not always happen, so they have to be replaced.
Testing for spark
If there is an ignition coil on each of the engine cylinders, then testing for the presence of a spark occurs somewhat differently. In this case you will also need a Hall Sensor. If there is no spark on only one coil, then it should be replaced. But if it doesn't appear at all, then the problem is much more complicated. In this case, the problem may be due to a faulty controller or broken wiring.
To more easily test the presence of a spark discharge, it is advisable to use a Hall Sensor.
It must be brought to the faulty coil and turned on. If the arrow starts to rise, it means there is current in the wires.
How to check the ignition module on a VAZ-2110 injector 16 valves
VAZ-2110 engines with a two-shaft head with 16 valves are built on the basis of the old one and a half liter VAZ 21083 engine. Changes affected only the cylinder head and air supply system. Twin-shaft 16-valve engines were installed in two types - a 1.5-liter engine (VAZ-2112) and a 1.6-liter engine (VAZ-21124). The ignition system on these engines is different. Today we will look at the ignition module for the injection 16-valve engine 2112 and find out its differences from the 1.6-liter engine 21124.
Design of the ignition module of a 16-valve engine on a VAZ-2110
Despite the similarity in engine design, the ignition system of the 1.5-liter injection 16-valve engine differs from the 1.6 16-valve engine. The 1.6 liter engine uses an electronic contactless ignition system with individual coils on each spark plug. Therefore, there was no need for an ignition module. Such a system is more reliable and cheaper to operate, since if one coil fails, there is no need to replace the entire module.
This is the coil that sits on each spark plug of a 1.6 liter engine.
Features and articles
The 16-valve 1.5-liter VAZ 2112 injection engine used the same non-contact ignition system as the eight-valve engine, but a different ignition module was installed.
Its catalog number is 2112-3705010, and it sells for 2000-3000 rubles, depending on the manufacturer. The design of the module remains the same - two ignition coils (for cylinders 1-4 and 2-3) plus switch keys in a single block. The spark is supplied to the cylinders in pairs using the idle spark method. This means that sparking occurs in two cylinders simultaneously - in one on the compression stroke (working spark), in the second on the exhaust stroke (idle spark).
Ignition module for 16-valve 1.5 liter engine.
Symptoms of module malfunction
Signs of a faulty ignition module on a VAZ-2110 are always acutely felt:
Other faults
These symptoms may not only be caused by the ignition module. To determine the malfunction, it is enough to spend a few minutes diagnosing spark plugs, high-voltage wires and caps. This will eliminate the remaining elements of the ignition system and make sure that it is the ignition module that is faulty.
We also look at the block and especially the wires included in it.
If all these elements are in good condition, the ignition module must be checked.
In addition, it is better to check the spark plugs and wires on a warm engine, since a half-dead ignition module can operate cold for some time and fail when heated. You also need to be sure that all sensors are working properly. This can be indicated by an error code or Check Engine light.
Algorithm for checking the ignition module on a VAZ-2110
We begin the test with the block connected to the module.
To check the module, we only need a multimeter and it will take 15-20 minutes. This is quite simple to do, the main thing is to adhere to the algorithm and know the nominal values of the working module:
conclusions
Repairing the VAZ-2110 ignition module with your own hands is possible, and upgrading it is also possible.
However, for this you need to have some knowledge in the field of radio engineering, and no one can guarantee long-term operation of the module after repair, knowing the quality of our radio components. Therefore, the best option would be to replace the device. Good luck to everyone, stable spark, smooth and sunny roads!
The key turns in the lock, but nothing works
If the starter itself does not work, then there will be no spark between it and the ignition switch. This may be due to a low or faulty battery.
If you check the spare part with a voltmeter, then the normal readings should be 101.8 V. If you use a hydrometer, then the reading in each jar should not be less than 1.22.
List of other possible reasons why there is no spark in the VAZ-2110 valve injector:
- The problem is in the ignition switch, if the key can be easily inserted and turned, or, conversely, these actions are difficult, but the ignition lock cylinder makes itself felt. It is recommended to replace the lock.
- The starter's retractor is stuck. In such a situation, the spark may disappear along the way. Professionals advise taking something heavy, such as a key, and hitting the starter with it. The main thing is not to overdo it. In the garage you can easily check how the starter works. For this you need a battery. Ideal situation: the starter body is pressed at the zero phase, and the wire with a clamp from the positive is pulled to the “retractor”. After the manipulations, the device works. If the desired reaction is absent, then the problem is probably in the “retracting” part.
- If the relay is working, then the problem may be related to the brushes. There will be a loud cracking noise and the starter will not turn if the bendix is faulty.
- There may be no spark at the power supply to the starter. To check the health of the circuit, use a multimeter. In addition, it is better to carry out such a check with someone else's help.
Often in the VAZ 2110 the spark disappears due to the fact that the contacts have oxidized.
If after servicing the ECU there is still no spark, then you can check other wires, for example, follow the path of the ground conductor. The most problematic places are where it approaches the battery terminal and comes into contact with the body. If the cause of the malfunction is the terminal, then the wire should be replaced. In the place where there is contact with the body, the wire can be cleaned with a metal brush.
Poor starting on a cold VAZ 2112 injector, 16 valves, possible causes and solutions
And one more version of the 2-circuit ignition circuit. Good afternoon, I have a VAZ-2112 produced in 2005, with a 16-valve engine. And not so long ago, when it was cold, I began to experience difficulty starting it. At the same time, it may simply not start, and sometimes it starts with difficulty. Tell me what could be the matter?
Won't start in the morning? Let's fix it!
There can be many reasons why a motorist finds it difficult to start the engine after parking overnight. This also applies to those situations where the car was started in the evening without any defects, but in the very morning the problems, as they say, are obvious.
In this article, we will look at what are the main reasons that influence the difficulty of starting a VAZ-2112 with a cold engine and how you can quickly solve them.
Starting principle
In order to know why the engine does not start, you need to know exactly how it works. The basis for starting the engine is a spark, which depends on the ignition system and the fuel-air mixture, which is supplied in certain proportions. Therefore, if any of these components does not work as it should, startup becomes difficult or simply impossible.
Main reasons
Among all the reasons why starting an engine can be difficult, we can highlight the main ones that stand out for poor starting of a cold engine:
Low battery charge level - this reason most often occurs in the cold season, when the ambient temperature is significantly below 0 degrees Celsius. Because in such conditions, a dead car battery can lose its charge very quickly. This problem can be solved by simply replacing the battery with a new one, or periodically servicing the old one to recharge it.
The battery on the editorial car was running low. True, it was an 8-valve VAZ-2112. But the meaning is the same.
When further inspecting the ignition system, pay attention to the condition of the individual coils and spark plugs. Check them for cracks and visible signs of wear.
Also pay special attention to the condition of the working surface of the candles, as their condition can tell a lot. The order of dismantling does not matter.
Check the fuel rail pressure.
Actually, the ramp is under pressure
A clogged throttle valve, although not the main one, can also be the cause of difficult engine starting. It needs to be cleaned.
Throttle valve before and after cleaning Air filter and mass air flow sensor - the air filter must be clean so that all the necessary air mass passes into the cylinders and mixes with the required amount of fuel.
We connect the probes of the measuring device: red to yellow, and black to green (to sensor ground).
Insufficient engine oil pressure
This reason typically appears on a cold engine, since it is much more difficult for thickened oil with insufficient pressure to reach the main components and assemblies of the engine. In this case, you may notice a low oil pressure warning light. However, as follows from practice, such problems do not occur often.
As you can see, problems with starting the engine when cold are not uncommon and there can be various reasons for this. They should be solved from least difficult to most difficult. Since even a minor problem in a small unit can prevent the entire engine from starting.
How to start easier in cold winter
Advice! To make starting the engine in the cold season much easier, we recommend installing an auto-start alarm on your car.
Warming up every certain time. Fuel consumption will suffer, but the likelihood of starting in severe frost will increase
If the temperature drops below 20 degrees minus, you can set the engine to automatically start every three hours. This will not only allow you to get into a warm car in winter, but will also prevent the oil from thickening too much during severe night frosts, which will certainly have a beneficial effect on the condition of the engine as a whole.
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If the light is on
Sometimes the injector fault light stays on until the engine warms up to 90 degrees, after which it stops flashing. This is usually observed in winter, when there is severe frost outside. And although the problem is not serious, it will have to be solved. It happens like this:
- Replace the injector sensor;
- Get the firmware installed at a car service center;
- Remove the battery terminals. Perhaps the light came on, but never went out.
- And after removal, the injector will be overloaded.
If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.
Possible causes of failure
The weak point of the ignition coils and modules is the secondary winding, which generates a high voltage pulse. A coil break or breakdown may occur in it. The following factors lead to this phenomenon:
- use of low-quality or unsuitable candles;
- operation with non-functioning high voltage wires;
- frequent attempts to check the spark.
The high-voltage pulse arising in the secondary winding must be realized (spent). If this does not happen (if the integrity of a high voltage wire is broken, for example), a high-energy electrical pulse seeks an outlet. He will find it, with a high degree of probability, in the thin secondary winding.
Often, a module malfunction occurs when the integrity of poor-quality factory soldering of wires going to the switch elements is violated. This happens from vibration. Also, the cause of non-working coils can be a banal contact failure in the incoming connector. Another factor leading to a malfunction of the ignition unit is often moisture that gets on the device during washing or driving in unusual conditions.
Stage two
You can check the element by the presence of operating sound. Turn on the ignition - there should be a hum in the area of the rear seats. Sometimes he is missing. In this case, you should check the fuses. The VAZ-2110 is an injection car, and the fuse box is located on the side of the center console on the front passenger side.
It is necessary to unscrew the fasteners, then remove the cover, check the fuses for functionality and, if necessary, replace them. If the elements are fully operational, then you need to check whether the relay will turn on, both the main one and the fuel pump. You can feel the moment of switching on with your finger. A characteristic click will also be heard.
If there is no spark on a VAZ-2110 (injector, 8 valves), then the spark plugs are often the cause. Naturally, they are checked if the fuel pump is working. It is best to use a spark gap for testing. If the current is distributed over two spark plugs, then there will definitely be a breakdown to ground.
It is possible that the wire to the ignition coil has broken or there are breaks in its winding. If a VAZ-2110 car does not have a spark (injector, 8 valves) on two wires, then the reasons may be a non-working ignition coil or controller. In two cases, there is a possibility of high-voltage wires breaking. This option is worth checking first. Look at the resistance level. Normal values are up to 200 kOhm.
Messages 1 to 20 of 25
1 Topic by AMORAL 2014-01-25 22:47:29
Topic: Resolved: There is a spark and the fuel pump works, but VAZ 2112 1.5, 16kl does not start
Good evening! Please help me what could be wrong. It all started with this: The other day, as I understand it, the battery ran out. The starter barely clicked a couple of times and that’s it, the interior began to go dark. I decided to buy a new battery and spark plugs. I start it up and the starter spins perfectly. It sounds like the engine is starting to seize, but as soon as you let go of the key, that’s it. Quiet. Something seems to be missing. In short, I can't start it. PS there is a spark and, as far as I understand, the fuel pump also works when the key is in the 1st position and there is a “click”.
2 Reply from sergo9531 2014-01-25 22:58:51
were there any outbreaks or are you not sure? did it smell like gasoline?
3 Reply from AMORAL 2014-01-25 23:05:38
were there any outbreaks or are you not sure? did it smell like gasoline?
I’m not 100% sure, I’m honestly not an expert and I’ve owned the car for no more than a year. But the starter turns perfectly. Therefore, I don’t know what else to check. There was no smell of gasoline. I heard somewhere about the crankshaft sensor, is it worth trying to replace it with a new one?
4 Reply from sergo9531 2014-01-25 23:09:33
No, nothing needs to be changed yet. What is your temperature? Have you looked at the candles? maybe they were flooded. How did you check the spark?
Now it's minus 16. The old candles are now at my house, they are not wet. But I decided to replace them anyway because I had never changed them. I unscrewed the spark plug, put a high-voltage wire on it and secured it to ground (to the metal surface of the engine). I turned it with the starter while my friend watched. I only checked from one cylinder though. I didn’t watch 2,3,4 anyway.
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Method No. 2: Spark piezoelectric probe (for example, Test-M) or lighter.
If you don’t have a ready-made device at hand, you can use an element from a piezo lighter instead. The principle of testing is similar: we connect the device to the upper contact of the spark plug and to the body. The button is pressed, if a spark jumps, then the spark plug is working; if it drips or is missing, then it is broken. Details in the video:
Method number 3: Use a multimeter. You should check the electrical circuit of the central electrode by setting the device to 20 kOhm. If there is “contact” between the central electrode and the tip (shows resistance), then the reason for the lack of a spark may be damage to the insulator. Video example:
Each type of candle must have its own resistance. This verification method is less accurate.
These methods work, but they cannot determine the serviceability of the spark plug 100%. For example, a spark plug installed in an engine has a bad spark, but when checked it will look like it is fully working. Why? In open air, the voltage required to form a spark is much less than in a cylinder. In the combustion chamber of an engine, a spark appears in the presence of a compressed air-combustible mixture.
How to check the ignition coil on a VAZ-2112 16 valves
Good evening everyone, dear friends, today I decided to touch on a sore subject on Priora and not only, namely the failure of spark plug coils
The Prioro engine uses individual Bosch coils, the price today is 450 g
Therefore, I suggest several ways to recognize a non-working coil (by the way, even diagnosticians at stations can’t always tell which coil is faulty and suggest a random method)). Of course, there is a device that checks the performance of the coil, but its price is about 300 USD
and not every diagnostician buys such a thing, thinking that when it works itself out) Let's start self-diagnosis, firstly, inspect the removed coil, the rubber part should be without cracks or tears (this is already a defect)
Also, the spring located inside the coil must be in the correct position
The easiest method is to wrap the coils with thermal tape.
but if this doesn’t help, it means that one of them is definitely dead, after visually inspecting the coils with their full visual performance, we move on to auxiliary methods, namely a banal tester. Many people say that you can’t check a coil with a tester, you can check it knowing only the initial readings) First, we check the internal resistance of the multimeter and its wires so as not to make false measurements.
To do this, set the switch to the 200 Ohm position and close the probes, mine is 0.3 Ohm
quite normal for such a product, ideally it should be 0.0 Ohm
We call the primary winding of the coil, this winding is connected to pins 1 and 3 of the connector. The polarity of the connection does not affect this. The multimeter should show about 0.8 ohms
we subtract its own error 0.8 - 0.3 = 0.5 Ohm - the norm. If there are no readings, then we check the quality of the connection of the probes to the coil contacts and the correctness of the connections (we need the outer terminals of the coil connector) and try to ensure the best contact, if everything If there are no readings, then the primary winding is broken and the IKZ is faulty.
If everything is normal with the primary, check the secondary winding of the coil. To do this, move the cartoon switch to the 2000 kOhm position (or 2 MOhm), here the multimeter probes must be connected observing the polarity - red to the spring inside the rubber cap, black to the middle (2) contact of the connector. My working coil has a secondary winding resistance of 342 kOhm.
As for the 2nd coil, it is broken, to be completely sure, I removed the rubber cap, wiped it, knocked, but nothing helped - this coil is faulty and the cartoon shows infinity.
So we’re not in a hurry to go to the diagnosticians and give money for advice to check by replacing a new one)) first you can try your strength and intelligence) Thank you all for your attention, good luck in life and on the drive))
Some gasoline engines that are installed on modern domestic and imported cars are equipped with ignition modules, which are a pulsed high-voltage current source. There are situations when these devices fail, leading to a complete or partial loss of performance of the car engine. Ways to check for a malfunction in the ignition module in a garage are covered in this article.
How to check the ignition coil on a VAZ-2112 16 valves: video
The ignition coil, which is located in the car, essentially converts the low voltage from the battery and generator into high voltage, to supply it individually to each spark plug. Roughly speaking, this is a miniature electrical transformer, the moment of failure of which is almost impossible to predict and repairs and diagnostics have to be carried out on the failed device. Below in our article we will tell you in detail how to check the ignition coil for a VAZ-2112 with your own hands.
The video describes in great detail the algorithm for checking the ignition coil on a VAZ-2112:
Ignition coil device
It is known that on 8-valve engines an ignition module was used (module repair, diagnostics) with two channels and coils that are capable of transmitting a spark to a pair of spark plugs at once. However, on a 16-valve engine, the coils became individual for each spark plug.
Prices and articles
The ignition coil from the Russian manufacturer SOATE for the VAZ-2112 has article number 2112-3705010-12 and costs around 1,000 rubles in stores. Analogs from Bosch can cost twice as much, but the quality of these parts is much higher. In any case, the choice is always yours.
Ignition coil from Bosch.
The process of checking all ignition coils on a VAZ-2112
The VAZ-2112 engine with 16 valves uses individual Bosch ignition coils and in order to check them, the following procedure must be followed:
First of all, we dismantle each coil from its landing well
The order of dismantling does not matter. Then we turn off the power supply and remove them all together as an assembly. First of all, we pay attention to its external condition, the absence of cracks and various breaks. If there is damage on it, change it. The same applies to the spring located inside the coil, look at its position, it should be exactly in the center
Let's look at its correct location
Despite the fact that many people on the Internet talk about the impossibility of checking a coil with their own hands, it is possible to check it only by knowing their initial values, which are measured in ohms.
- In order not to make false measurements, first of all we check the internal resistance of the wires and the multimeter itself. To do this, switch the device to the OM position and connect the probes to each other. What value the multimeter gives is its internal resistance. The value can range from 0.0 to 0.3 ohms. On the multimeter, a value of 00.3 Ohm is normal.
- First of all, we “ring” the primary winding, which is located on the first and third contacts; when connecting, the polarity does not matter.
- Depending on the presence of error readings and coil readings, we add up the final indicators. For example, if the internal resistance is 0.2 ohms and the coil value is 0.7 ohms, therefore the correct value would be 0.5 ohms. Which is the norm. The value of 00.8 ohms is subtracted from the resistance of the multimeter and we get 00.5, which is the norm.
- We continue diagnostics with each of the coils.
- If it happens that there are no indications, then we once again check the quality of the connections and the correctness of the connection. If the readings are still zero, then the primary winding on this coil is faulty.
When the readings on the primary winding on all coils are correct and show their values, we proceed to checking the secondary winding.
To do this, set the switch to 2000 kOhm mode. Next, we place the multimeter probe on the coil, observing the polarity, black to pin 2, which is located exactly in the middle of the connector, and the red probe to the spring, inside the rubber plug. Three-digit values will mean the coil is working properly, and infinity values will indicate its failure
Such designations indicate the serviceability of the ignition coil. The number “1” indicates infinity and indicates a malfunction of the ignition coil.
Please note that if you cannot measure the resistance correctly the first time, you can wipe the fixed elements from dirt and deposits, since dirty parts can interfere with the signal output. When replacing old coils with new ones, you should strictly use analogues, taking the faulty part with you to the store in advance. Thanks to this simple procedure, you can quickly check the functionality of the ignition coils on a VAZ-2112 with your own hands, without resorting to the help of special diagnostic tools. stations and specialists
Thanks to this simple procedure, you can quickly check the performance of the ignition coils on a VAZ-2112 with your own hands, without resorting to the help of special diagnostic stations and specialists.
Why does the starter spin for a long time when starting? List of possible problems
- Long service life of the car and, as a result, severe wear of the starter brushes. The way out is to remove the starter cover and replace the two brushes;
- The entry of specks and various debris through the gas tank leads to the fine filter becoming clogged and limiting the fall of fuel into the combustion chamber. It is necessary to clean the tank using liquid aerosols, remove it and wash it, change the filter for a new one, go to a car service for a comprehensive repair, in case of a serious diagnosis;
- Depending on the operating conditions, the air filter has absorbed a large amount of dust and small particles, which is no longer capable of passing air flows to enrich the fuel. A complete replacement of such a unit is necessary;
- The age of the car, as well as the mileage, can cause the compression in the cylinders to significantly decrease. As a result, gases penetrate into the engine crankcase and the entire ignition process goes down the drain. It is advisable to carry out ring tossing or major repairs in advanced forms of the disease;
- Light brown color – working condition, original color;
- Black: rich mixture in the combustion chamber. Fuel overdose. The reason is the carburetor or injector;
- White soot: lean mixture. Lack of fuel. The reasons are similar to fortified formula;
- Brown: fuel quality is very low and contains metal impurities. Use something else (see the article “Which gas stations are best to refuel at”).
