The emergency oil pressure lamp on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 is on

When the engine heats up, the oil pressure lights up: consequences for the engine

Let's start with the fact that any problems with lubricant pressure mean that the power unit is experiencing oil starvation. Simply put, the rubbing surfaces do not receive enough motor oil and their wear begins to increase. Oil also plays the role of a cleaner and cooler, washing away wear products and lowering the temperature in the area where the surfaces of rubbing pairs work.

Also, when the efficiency of the oil system decreases, knocks and noises appear in the engine, which subsequently lead to more serious damage or even engine seizure. In this case, jamming may well be accompanied by a “fist of friendship,” which greatly complicates the repair of the damaged unit and increases the overall costs of restoring the internal combustion engine.

The system failure indicator is on

Almost every car owner has encountered a situation where the red lubricant pressure lamp on the instrument panel lights up. But not all drivers know what to do in such a case.

After all, the situation can occur at any moment - both while the vehicle is moving and at idle speed. Definitely, if this problem occurs, the car requires repair work.

There are many reasons for the occurrence of an indicator signal. The driver is recommended to adhere to a certain rule: you cannot continue driving if the indicator lights up.

Neglecting the recommendation can lead to irreversible consequences, namely major damage to the car. The optimal solution in this situation is to call a tow truck and go to a car service center to diagnose the control system.

Motor oil, in addition to its main function of lubrication, acts as a cooling agent. If the pressure in the power unit decreases, then, consequently, the temperature of the mating elements increases.

The motor begins to wear out, that is, under extreme operating conditions. It is worth noting that hot oil loses its positive properties and loses its function of creating a special film on engine parts and mechanisms.

Oil pump

A gear pump with an oil receiver and a pressure reducing valve in the cover is installed in the engine crankcase. The pump is attached to the cylinder block with two bolts.

Gears are installed in the pump housing: the drive gear is stationary on the pump shaft and the driven gear is free on an axis pressed into the housing. The pump is driven by a chain transmission from the crankshaft sprocket to the auxiliary drive shaft sprocket, which is installed in the cylinder block in steel-aluminum bushings. The roller has a helical gear that meshes with the drive gear of the oil pump and ignition distributor, which rotates in a cermet bushing. On the latest car models, the drive shaft of auxiliary units is also installed in metal-ceramic bushings.

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Comments 13

thanks, fixed the problem. The problem is that the oil pressure sensor did not work. Where the timing belt cover is located nearby, the wire from the oil pressure sensor broke. I took a piece of wire about half a meter, soldered it, soldered the terminal again, and connected it to the sensor. I connected the battery terminal, turned the key and STOP and OIL lights up on the dashboard. Thanks for the advice and for the picture of the diagrams

Well, I roughly described the problems to you. If you need a book by email, I’ll send it to you in PDF format, you need Adobe Reader to open it.

ok, send me the book... just in case

Hello. I have the same problem, I have a VAZ 21083, with a low instrument panel, when I turn the key with one push (the stop light does not light, the oil light does not light up), the battery lights up. How to fix the problem? can you help me suggest a diagram? I changed all the light bulbs to new ones, treated them with a bucket, same problem. Thank you

Was everything on fire before? If yes, then look first at connecting the wire to the oil pressure sensor on the engine. A possible second option in this case may be that fuse F16 (15A) has blown in the mounting block from the VAZ-2114 (2115) or No. 5 (8A) in the old VAZ Fuse Box, but the following devices will not work: Turn indicators and relays turn signal and hazard warning light switch (in turn signal mode). Turn signal indicator lamp. Rear lights (reversing lamps). Gearmotor and windshield wiper activation relay. Generator excitation winding (when starting the engine). Indicator lamp for low brake fluid level. Oil pressure drop warning lamp. Carburetor air damper warning lamp. Indicator lamp for turning on the parking brake. "STOP" light display lamp. Coolant temperature gauge. Fuel level indicator with reserve indicator lamp. Voltmeter. Well, if all the devices listed above work, except for the control lamps you listed, then look at the wire connections on the block suitable for the instrument panel and at the output from the safety block. And the best option is to find a good electrician, even if you have to pay money. If you have an email, write the address and I’ll send you the wiring diagrams from number nine.

There were no problems with the electrics before, everything worked perfectly. everything works except stop and engine oil pressure. The entire fuse box is working, the fuses are intact and not blown, recently replaced with new ones. The relay also works. There seems to be something wrong with the instrument panel. I disconnected the cable from the engine, then from the dashboard, cleaned it, treated it with a bucket, and replaced the lamps. I tried to insert the key into the ignition, and turned it over with one push. does not burn. ok I'll give you my email. thanks for the advice. I'll contact an electrician. thanks for the advice. I'll try to figure it out. I have an old-style eight, low panel

Thanks for the response, I removed it and found a burnt track there, a broken wire, it was all oxidized. I cleaned everything, I haven’t soldered it yet. I think that was the problem after all!)

hi, how do I understand (additional leg) I’m new to this business, my Akum lamp is constantly on, although it charges everything normally, and when I pull out the handbrake, my brake light comes on and the brake fluid level lights up, what a joke, how do I remove it in a VAZ 2108 low ponel?

I thought about my problem for a very long time, because when I turned on the ignition, instead of the battery, the indicator for closing the throttle air damper came on. In the 4th photo, an additional leg is clearly visible (it is screwed to the board with a bolt). There was also a problem with suction, when the handle was pulled out the low brake level indicator came on - this problem was solved by rearranging the wires, but before that I smoked electrical circuits from the VAZ-2109 for a very long time, everything was solved by the so-called poke method. There is also a problem with the emergency lights and the handbrake lights up instead of a triangle. It is possible that the wires in the terminal blocks are mixed up, this could be if the wiring or instrument panel was changed in the car (there may be different circuit boards on the instrument panels). For example, I have Hungarian, maybe the USSR or some other country. But the surest option is to find a competent electrician. Good luck on the roads and in solving your problem.

I bought the car already with such a tidy. So try searching on the Internet. On the ProSport website I saw tens and fourteens. You can also look at the Tuningsport website.

Where can I buy such an overlay?

Which one? On a low panel or on instruments?

Check Engine Light

The Check Engine light is designed to inform the driver about a malfunction of elements of the vehicle's engine control system (ECM).

Using the example of the Check Engine ECM lamp of VAZ 21083, 21093, 21099 cars with a 2111 injection engine, let’s try to understand in more detail what it signals and what to do if the lamp lights up.

Check Engine Light

— Where is the Check Engine light located?

On VAZ 21083, 21093, 21099 vehicles, the Check Engine lamp ("Check Engine" control lamp) is located in the instrument panel on the front panel ("high" panel, Europanel). On cars of early years of production (“low” panel), the lamp is located in the button block on the “beard” of the panel.

— How does the Check Engine light work?

After turning on the ignition, the control unit (ECU) lights the lamp, after which it “interrogates” the sensors of the engine control system (supplies a voltage of a certain value to them and removes a voltage of a certain value from them). If everything is in order, then after starting the engine the unit turns off the lamp and it goes out.

If a malfunction of any sensor is detected (the serviceability conditions “hardwired” into the unit’s program are not met), the Check Engine lamp continues to light while the engine is running. The unit writes an error code into its memory and turns on an emergency operation mode in which the calculated parameters to ensure operation are taken from backup data in the unit’s memory, rather than read from a faulty sensor. When the engine operates in emergency mode, its dynamics and throttle response, fuel consumption, etc. deteriorate. This is a signal to the driver that there is a malfunction in the engine control system (ECM).

The burning lamp may go out some time after starting the engine. This indicates that the malfunction has disappeared. But, the control unit will still write the code of the missing malfunction (error) into its memory.

In some cases, the Check Engine lamp may not light up immediately, but some time after starting the engine (40 seconds after the malfunction is detected).

It may light up periodically and then go out. But in any case, its lighting indicates problems in the ECM and the need to check its elements.

If the vehicle's driving performance does not deteriorate when the lamp is on, this indicates a possible intermittent malfunction (malfunction of a sensor). In this case, it is also necessary to determine the error code.

— Which ECM sensors are malfunctioning does the Check Engine light indicate?

Engine crankshaft position sensor (ECPS).

Mass air flow sensor (MAF).

Throttle position sensor (TPS).

Oxygen sensor (OS).

Knock sensor (DS).

Speed ​​sensor (DS).

Camshaft position sensor (CPRV - phase sensor).

Temperature sensor (DT).

— What to do if the Check Engine light is constantly on?

You need to find out the fault code in the ECM. To do this, you can use a diagnostic device suitable for the given system. This can be done either at a car service center, or independently, if you have your own scanner, connecting it to the diagnostic block.

If the malfunction of any of the ECM sensors is obvious, or during a visual inspection it is determined that the wire block is loosely connected to it, there is contamination, unreliable fixation, mechanical damage, etc., then you can replace the faulty sensor yourself.

Notes and additions

To quickly independently reset errors from the ECU memory, remove the negative terminal from the battery terminal for 10 seconds.

The engine control systems of VAZ 21083, 21093, 21099 cars with control units (controllers) January-4.1, GM have a self-diagnosis system for faults. It allows you to determine the fault code based on the frequency of flashing of the Check Engine lamp. To put the unit into self-diagnosis mode, you need to jumper two contacts in the diagnostic connector.

EMERGENCY MEASURES

So, the oil pressure light on the dashboard came on while driving. As already noted, you should immediately stop and turn off the engine. Since while on the road there is no way to accurately determine the cause of the problem, the only diagnostic method is a visual inspection.

After stopping the engine:

Depending on the results of the inspection and level check, we take further actions. If a slight leak is detected, and the dipstick shows the amount of lubricant below o, you can continue moving to the repair site, but first replenish the oil loss and check whether the warning lamp lights up. To top up, you should use the same lubricant that was filled in (it is not for nothing that it is recommended to always carry oil with you for topping up) or purchase a similar one. During the movement, you should stop periodically and replenish the level.

We do the same in the case when no leaks are detected, but the level is below normal. We just add lubricant, make sure that the control light does not light up and continue on our way, periodically stopping and checking the dipstick. If there are no leaks and the oil level is normal, it is possible that the pressure sensor is acting up. Restarting the engine after a short pause (the time it will take to inspect the engine and assess the amount of lubricant) will help verify this.

If the lamp lights up even when you restart it, it is better not to experiment, but to call for help to transport the car to the repair site. It is strictly forbidden to operate the machine if the dipstick shows a level higher than normal or if there is a foamy whitish coating on it - emulsion (you can additionally check for the presence of emulsion on the oil filler cap).

This indicates that other technical fluids, such as antifreeze or fuel, are leaking into the pan. An excessive level of oil (liquid mixture) in the pan has a strong negative effect, as does its lack.

The problem is diagnosed by the non-characteristic color of engine oil and smoke from the exhaust pipe.

These are all the measures that can be taken in an emergency situation - when the lamp lights up while driving and there is no necessary equipment and tools for a more detailed search for the cause.

checking the lubrication system on a VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099

1. Open the hood of a VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099 car. Do not rush to immediately check the oil level in the engine - let the oil drain into the oil sump, this will take two to three minutes. During this time, carefully inspect the engine to see if there are any fresh oil leaks on it.

1:984 2. Look under the front of the car to see if the engine oil sump is broken or there is an oil leak. HELPFUL ADVICE If an oil leak is detected from a broken oil sump, try to temporarily seal it in place. To do this, you can use a car inner tube, a piece of rubber, a rag, a wooden plug, etc.

3. Pay special attention to the oil filter. Oil may leak from the rubber oil filter gasket if the oil filter gasket is damaged or the filter is loose. If oil is leaking from under the oil filter, sometimes it is enough to turn it a little clockwise.

WARNING Hot engine parts can cause burns, so wear gloves and long sleeves.

3:1279 4. Remove the oil dipstick from the engine, wipe the dipstick with a clean cloth and reinsert it. Remove the dipstick again and check the oil level. The oil level should be between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks.

5. If the oil level is below the MIN mark, add oil to the car engine to the required level; for this you can use a funnel from the neck of a plastic bottle. Start the engine. If the oil pressure lamp goes out when the engine oil level is normal, you can continue driving the vehicle. If the oil pressure light still comes on, check the oil pressure sensor. To do this, unscrew the standard oil pressure sensor and install a mechanical pressure gauge in its place. If the pressure at normal idle speed is more than 0.06 MPa (0.65 kgf/cm3) and increases with increasing speed, the oil pressure sensor or its electrical circuit is faulty. If, after eliminating all visible causes, the oil pressure in the engine is insufficient (the oil pressure drop lamp is on), engine diagnostics and repair are required (see Section 4 “Engine”).

WARNING Do not attempt to drive to the garage - the engine will be damaged. Tow a VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099 car for repairs with the engine not running.

How to check oil pressure?

While operating the vehicle, you will be required to check the oil pressure. This procedure is as important as checking the oil level. Every motorist should have a set of necessary devices, but for this operation you will need a pressure gauge.

Where is the oil pressure sensor located?

You should look for it under the decorative trim of the black engine. Checking oil pressure:

1) It is necessary to warm up the engine to the standard operating condition of 90 degrees;

2) Turn off the engine;

3) Open the hood and find the emergency oil pressure sensor;

4) Disconnect the sensor;

5) It is necessary to attach the tip of the pressure gauge to the vacated hole;

6) Start the engine;

7) Depress the gas pedal to 5400 rpm and observe the oil pressure.

What oil pressure should be in the engine?

At minimum speed it should show at least 196.2 kPa (2 bar), and at maximum - 441.3-637.5 kPa (4.5-6.5 bar). Low pressure indicates a major overhaul of the engine, and high pressure indicates a breakdown of the safety or pressure reducer oil pump valve.

Is the oil pressure warning light on or flashing?

If it flashes or lights up on empty, then several reasons can be noted:

1) Suitable oil level;

2) the oil does not correspond to the vehicle parameters;

3) failure of the emergency oil pressure sensor;

4) failure or malfunction of the oil pump.

Very often, problems with oil pressure occur in older cars due to their natural wear and tear and wear of the oil pump. But there are also problems with new cars that have been in an accident, resulting in engine damage.

What to do if the VAZ-2115 injector check light is on

A modern car is stuffed with various sensors, so when something goes wrong, the system notifies the vehicle owner. But not all VAZ-2115 owners know why the check light is on, and they will find out only after it happens. Understanding, of course, will not solve the problem itself, but will only add headaches. But at least it will suggest further actions. In addition, sometimes you cannot do without computer diagnostics.

Check Engine literally means check the engine, this indicator is located on the instrument panel. The signal lights up thanks to a command from the control unit, which has detected instability in the engine functions.

As soon as it appeared, this indicator was intended to control the carburetor and was equipped with a mini-computer, but now the system has been significantly improved and expanded its functionality. Currently, Check Engine control units belong to:

• engine speed;
• fuel consumption;
• the composition of gasoline - how high quality it is;
• ignition and many others.

It is precisely the poet who, without the appropriate knowledge, cannot determine the reason why the Check Engine may light up.

The car owner's reaction to the indicator's operation

It is worth immediately understanding that the light of the check does not always indicate some kind of malfunction.

How to recognize a problem signal:

1. If it flashes when you start the engine and immediately stops, everything is fine, just check the operating parameters.
2. If it lights up and does not go out for a long time or lights up constantly, there is something wrong with the engine. But the reason may not be serious, so you shouldn’t panic right away. Of course, a critical breakdown cannot be ruled out either.

Reasons for the check to catch fire

1. While driving, the oil level is most likely low. In this case, experts recommend not turning off the engine, but opening the hood and listening to the engine. If the sound is smooth, without additional noise or knocking, check the tightness of the closure. Perhaps there are previously unnoticed deformations or smudges on the body. If extraneous sounds are clearly audible, you must contact the service center.
2. If the engine is running smoothly, the spark plugs are faulty. Most likely, one of them has misfires. Another cause may be poor quality fuel, which is detected immediately after the last refueling. And this happens very often in our country.

The driver’s actions on the operation of the indicator for the most common reasons:

• poor quality fuel - drain the contents of the tank and fill with a higher quality substance;
• problems with spark plugs - you need to check them. If necessary, it should be replaced. Violation of the gap between the electrode causes it to be put in order - 1.3 mm;
• ignition coil - check for the presence of a spark, and also use a multimeter to check the resistance at the coil terminals, the discrepancy of which should not be more than 1-4 and 2-3;
• oxygen sensor (lambda probe) - check its functionality, and if any malfunctions are detected, replace the device;
• catalyst - also needs to be checked and replaced if necessary;
• faulty injectors - should be checked and cleaned;
• instability of the fuel pump or filter - check the pressure in the rail, which should be less than 3 atmospheres. If problems are detected, the filter/mesh should be cleaned or the entire device replaced;
• high-voltage wires - their operation must be checked strictly according to the instructions.

Instructions for independently checking the operation of automobile high-voltage wires:

1. Fill a stainless steel container with water and add 1 tbsp. l. salt.
2. Carefully place the wires into the liquid, leaving the ends on the surface.
3. Check them with a megger, which is connected to the first tip with one clamp, and the second to a container with wires immersed in water.
4. If the insulation is damaged, the resistance is less than 500 kOhm, which indicates the need for replacement.

If all of the above did not help to cope or identify the cause of the Check Engine indicator, you should contact a technical center. It often happens that in the VAZ-2115 model with an 8-valve injector the check light comes on and the car does not start at all. In this case, you will have to call an emergency signal and transport the car for inspection.

Loss of oil pressure when the VAZ engine is hot

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Hello. Tell me what could be the problem? Engine VAZ 21124, after repair. Oil pressure drops when the engine warms up. On a cold engine, at idle, the oil pressure shows more than 3 (I don’t know exactly how much, the device is homemade and the scale only goes up to 3), well, when the engine starts, it goes off scale. As the engine warms up. the pressure drops when fully warmed up at idle, it shows 0.5, if you accelerate it with difficulty it reaches 2. I tried to measure it with two factory pressure gauges in the service center, and when it’s hot it’s also 0.5. My pressure gauge showed on another car, where the engine was in perfect condition, 2 on a warm engine, at xx.

We assembled the engine ourselves. The block was bored out for the first repair, everything was washed and blown out with compressed air, the piston is new, the elbow was measured by a turner, it is in good condition, the liners are new, the oil pump is new, visually there are no oil leaks anywhere, it works and starts well, the hydraulic valves do not knock, the traction is good.

I tried to do the following: I removed the oil receiver - it was clean, checked the main liners - there was no wear and tear, removed the oil pump pressure reducing valve (bent the spring a little), re-glued the camshaft pastel with red sealant. All this did not give any results, only after re-gluing the pastel, when heating one hydraulic compensator began to knock, the pressure did not change. Tell me, what else could it be? Thank you in advance.

Lack of oil

So, one of the most common reasons for a signal from a pressure sensor is insufficient amount of oil in the engine. This is usually manifested by the light of the lamp at idle.

Due to low engine speeds, the pump is simply not able to supply oil to all rubbing surfaces due to its lack.

As the speed increases and as the lubricant warms up, it begins to circulate faster and the pressure in the system increases, to which the sensor reacts and the lamp goes out.

Reducing the amount of lubricant is a common phenomenon. Among motorists, this phenomenon is called “the engine takes oil.” It is inherent in all engines, both new and worn.

An engine in a car with no mileage, or one that has been overhauled, consumes a small amount of lubricant and this is almost imperceptible. A worn-out power unit can “take oil” in considerable quantities - up to 1 liter for every 1 thousand km.

Therefore, when the oil pressure control lights up, first of all we stop the engine, inspect it for lubricant leaks, wait a while for the glass to lubricate into the pan (usually 2 minutes), and then measure the level.

If necessary, adjust the amount of oil to the level, and then start the engine and make sure that the control goes out.

If there is no liquid on hand to top up, the car should not be operated under any circumstances.

Sensor, filter.

The second, no less common problem is the failure of the sensor itself. This also happens, and he begins to “live his own life,” closing and opening contacts for no reason. In this case, the lamp lights up in any mode, without any systematicity.

The simplest way to check it is to sharply increase the speed to 4-5 thousand, while the amount of lubricant should be normal.

If the lamp does not go out at such speeds, the problem is solved by replacing the control sensor.

The lamp may also light up when using a fake oil filter. The fact is that this element should always contain a small amount of oil. Even if the engine is not running.

When starting the engine, this oil will ensure rapid filling of the oil channels, which will contribute to a faster increase in pressure to the required value.

In fake filters, the lubricant often does not remain, but completely flows into the pan. This causes the pump to take longer to build up pressure. This problem can be eliminated by simply replacing the filter with a high-quality one.

Reasons for the lamp to light up

Some drivers do not pay any attention to the light of the oil pressure light, even if it is constantly on and they act very carelessly. After all, problems with the lubrication system are the most dangerous for the engine, since they can cause severe damage to the engine and lead to major repairs.

Experienced owners take oil pressure warning lights very seriously.

Lack of lubricant, malfunction of the oil pump or its bypass valve will lead to “oil starvation”, due to which the friction between the components will increase significantly and ultimately lead to seizing of the components.

Restoring the power plant after this is not only difficult, but will also cost significant costs.

There are several reasons for the warning light to come on, but in any case, immediate action must be taken.

In this case, it should be noted under what conditions the control gave a signal because it can only light up at idle, and immediately go out when the speed increases.

The lamp can blink or glow constantly in all modes. This may tell you where to look for the cause.

Sensor design and operating pressure check

To determine whether a device is functional, you need to understand how it works. It is also useful to know how the controller and the VAZ engine, or rather its lubrication system, interact with each other. The sensor is mounted on the cylinder head on the side on which the carburetor is located. Next to the controller there is a VAZ oil filter.

The design of the oil pressure controller is very simple. It consists of a housing, a built-in control and measuring elastic membrane and a transmission mechanism. The principle of operation of the device in question is also quite simple. Engine oil for VAZ, located in the lubrication system, acts on the membrane during engine operation.

The latter is deformed by an amount corresponding to the oil pressure. Vibrations of the elastic “partition”, which make or break the contacts of the electrical circuit, are transmitted to the rheostat through the mechanism mentioned above. In turn, changing the resistance of the rheostat affects the indicator readings on the car’s dashboard.

Checking the operating oil pressure using the crankshaft is used, as a rule, in cases where the indicator begins to signal a drop in pressure in the lubrication system away from the service station, and the driver does not have a pressure gauge at hand.

Before checking, you must make sure that the oil level in the system and the corresponding VAZ 2109 filter are in order. If the level is insufficient, the oil will have to be filled to the nominal level. Then you can proceed directly to checking the health of the sensor. For this purpose, it is unscrewed from the socket.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=PDAXIp_WN6Y

With the lubrication system open, the crankshaft of the machine is turned manually (without turning on the engine). If at the same time the hole into which the oil pressure controller was screwed begins to fill, then the pressure is normal. The indicator that continues to light indicates that the sensor has failed.

In this case, the device should be carefully inspected for defects. If there is no damage, it must be washed with gasoline (diesel) and installed in its original place. If the light continues to light after this, the sensor will have to be replaced.

VAZ oil light is on

The oil pressure warning lamp on the instrument panel is designed to monitor the oil pressure in the engine lubrication system. When there is no oil pressure, the light should be on; when the engine is started and the oil pump supplies oil to the lubrication channels, the light should go out.

How can it happen that the warning light comes on even when the engine is running?

Why does the oil pressure light come on when the engine is running?

• Insufficient or absent oil circulation in the engine lubrication system.
• Electrical circuit malfunction

In any case, if the warning light comes on, you must immediately turn off the engine. The reason is unknown and if it is a lack of oil pressure, then even short-term operation of the engine without lubrication can lead to dire consequences.

Why is there no oil pressure?

1. Oil pump malfunction. If the oil pump fails, then there will be no oil pressure.
2. Clogged oil filter.
3. The oil intake screen in the engine crankcase is clogged.
4. Due to a low oil level in the engine crankcase, the oil pressure in the system may drop.
5. Engine speed is less than rated idle speed. The oil pressure sensor is set to a certain pressure value, and in the case of low pump performance, the pressure in the system will actually be lower, which is what the sensor will show.

Oil pump drive

The oil pump drive is a part that needs to be discussed separately. The fact is that the duration of operation of the entire motor depends on it. The drive part of the oil pump itself consists of several parts:

• parasitic shaft;
• intermediate gear;
• small shaft;
• big shaft

The drive is considered a simple part of the pump, but the gear splines quickly wear out during operation.
Most cases of oil pump failure are associated with a breakdown of the drive, or more precisely, with wear of the gear splines. Most often, the splines “lick off” when starting the car in winter; in this case, the engine cannot be started again.

Gear wear is an irreversible process during long-term operation of the machine. If the gear teeth begin to slip, the pressure in the oil system will be below operating pressure. Accordingly, the engine will not receive the amount of lubricant that it needs for normal operation.

How to replace the pump drive

Replacing the drive gear is not an easy procedure, but after careful preparation, you can remove the drive and repair it:

1. Remove the car's ignition distributor.
2. To remove the intermediate gear, you will need a special puller. However, you can get by with a simple wooden stick with a diameter of about 9–10 mm. The stick needs to be hammered into the gear and then rotated clockwise. The gear will then easily come out.
3. Install a new one in place of the worn gear using a regular stick.
4. Replace the ignition distributor.

Video: replacing the oil pump drive mechanism

What is a “hog” and where is it located?

The VAZ 2106 mechanisms include a shaft, which is called the “hog” (or “pig”). The shaft itself drives the car's oil pump, as well as the gasoline pump and sensors. Therefore, if the “hog” suddenly fails, then the machine ceases to function normally.

The intermediate shaft is located in the engine compartment of the VAZ 2106 on the front side of the cylinder block. On the “six” the “hog” is started using a chain drive. This shaft has an extremely simple structure - only two necks. However, if the bushings on the journals are heavily worn, the operation of the oil pump and other mechanisms will be difficult. Therefore, when checking the pump, they usually look at the operation of the “hog”.

The shaft, called the “hog”, is mounted in front of the cylinder head

You can work with the oil pump on the VAZ 2106 yourself in the garage. The main feature of domestic “sixes” is precisely their unpretentious maintenance and simplicity of design. You can repair the oil pump and adjust the pressure in the system yourself, since there are no special requirements for this procedure.

Possible reasons for VAZ 2106, 2108, ZMZ 406, 405

But there are also reasons that may appear on specific cars, since there is another factor that influences the occurrence of the problem - the design features of the engine.

For example, on carburetor engines of the same VAZ-2106 or 2108, fuel can penetrate into the sump through the fuel pump. This unit on such engines is mechanically driven by a timing belt.

And due to damage to the pump membranes, fuel will penetrate inside the engine and mix with the oil, diluting it and increasing the level.

But on the ZMZ-406 engine, the cause of the pressure drop, in addition to those described, may be damage to the oil pump drive. Because of this, the unit simply will not function normally, which will affect the performance of the lubrication system.

Mechanical breakdowns inside the engine should not be discounted, as a result of which the operation of the lubrication system is affected. For example, a break in the timing chain tensioner shoe, for example, on the same VAZ-2106, will lead to the torn part starting to hit adjacent surfaces, knocking out small pieces of metal.

The chips formed as a result of such a breakdown will enter the lubrication system, and then settle in the filter, leading to a drop in pressure in it.

Or on the same ZMZ-405, the pump is driven through an intermediate shaft, which is driven by a timing chain. If the sprocket of this shaft breaks (it can rotate separately from it), the pump will stop working.

And there are enough such nuances. But in any case, without eliminating the cause of the malfunction, you should not use the car, so as not to end up with expensive repairs later.

We recommend watching:

• How much does the body of a Cossack weigh?
• VAZ 21103 oil pressure victory
• Installation of connecting rod bearings VAZ 2106
• I checked the inserts, what is it?
• What does it mean to turn the liners in the engine?
• Oil pressure reducing valve VAZ 2112

Replacing the oil pressure sensor on a VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099

Where is the oil pressure sensor located? It is located just below the block head cover, see the photos below for more details:

Note! A protective cover is installed on top of the oil pressure sensor, which, unfortunately, is removed in the photo, so when you look for this sensor, look closely at its protective cover, and not at the sensor itself. (What kind of protective cover is installed on the sensor, see the first picture, in the “Removing the sensor” section)

When should you change the oil pressure sensor? It must be replaced when worn out, this can be determined in the following ways:

1. The first signs of a sensor malfunction are the oil pressure lamp indicator lighting up on the instrument cluster.

Note! But here you need to be absolutely sure that everything is in order with the engine, otherwise, as happens, people first blame the sensor, and later they find out that they actually have a problem with the engine, so so that such questions do not arise, check carefully :

• The oil level in the engine, if the level is too low, then bring it to normal. (How to check the level and bring it to normal, see the article: “Changing the oil”)

• Further, the electrical wiring that is connected to the sensor may also be faulty.

• Also, the oil pressure lamp coming on can be caused by some kind of malfunction in the engine lubrication system.

2. If the oil pressure sensor is faulty, it may also be oily, so first of all, take a closer look to see if there are any oil particles on your sensor.

How to replace the oil pressure sensor on a VAZ 2108-VAZ 21099?

Removal: 1) First, by hand, disconnect the wire, together with the protective cover, from the sensor.

2) Next, using a wrench, completely unscrew the sensor.

3) And then remove it from the hole.

Installation: 1) Install the new sensor into the hole first.

2) And after installation, screw it all the way using a wrench.

3) After the sensor is screwed in, connect the wire to it by hand, together with the protective cover.

Important! When choosing a new sensor in a store, pay special attention to its markings; we recommend that you install a new sensor with the same markings that were applied to the old sensor!

Oil pump on VAZ cars, operating principle and main malfunctions

Kamaz pump

The device that supplies oil to all components and assemblies of the engine is called an oil pump.

The life of the internal combustion engine as a whole depends on the correct operation of the oil pump, so it is very important to ensure that the operation of this unit is at the proper level. At the slightest sign of a malfunction in the oil pump, it is necessary to repair it, since if you do not pay attention to this problem, there is a high risk of engine seizure. The VAZ oil pump has two types of device: one type is typical for all front-wheel drive cars (the VAZ 2109, 2110, 2112 oil pump has an almost identical design), and the other type is typical for both classics and the Niva model

If we talk about the principle of operation of the oil pump, then on front-wheel drive cars it is driven directly from the crankshaft, but on classics the system is more complicated. For example, the VAZ 2106 oil pump is driven using a chain drive

The VAZ oil pump has two types of device: one type is typical for all front-wheel drive cars (the oil pump VAZ 2109, 2110, 2112 have an almost identical design), and the other type, typical for both classics and the Niva model. If we talk about the principle of operation of the oil pump, then on front-wheel drive cars it is driven directly from the crankshaft, but on classics the system is more complicated. For example, the VAZ 2106 oil pump is driven using a chain drive.

Having understood the differences, let's talk about the technical part.

The device of the oil pump on VAZ cars

So, the oil pump consists of a housing, an oil receiver, a drive and driven gear, an oil pump pressure reducing valve and other small elements, such as an oil pump gasket, oil seal, etc.

Consequently, given the design of the oil pump on domestic cars, the weak points are the oil seal and the oil receiver. As a result of using low-quality oil, the receiver grid quickly becomes clogged and the oil pressure in the engine system drops. The oil pump itself has a service life of 120–150 thousand km, but sometimes certain problems occur that may require repair or replacement of the oil pump. Of course, replacing the oil pump on a VAZ 2109, or on any other model, is a complex and costly procedure, so it is better to carefully monitor its correct operation and, if necessary, arrange for preventive maintenance in the form of more frequent oil changes.

In addition, periodic checks of the oil pump will not be superfluous.

How to check the oil pump?

The first and main sign of a malfunction in the oil pump will be a warning light that comes on, but it already indicates the presence of a serious malfunction. In order to check the correct operation of the oil pump, it is not at all necessary to remove it, as some experts advise. It is enough just to measure the engine oil pressure and compare it with the indicators that are considered normal for your car. Having received the number, you can already know what to do next - use the car with peace of mind, or prepare for repairs.

When replacing or repairing the oil pump of a VAZ 2109, 2110, and even 2106, be sure to use only original spare parts. The problem is that for domestic cars there is a large selection of parts from various manufacturers, and, as a rule, the bulk of these parts are of very low quality.

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The indicator lights up when the engine is idling, cold or hot.

The oil pressure indicator may come on when the engine is idling and go off as soon as the vehicle starts moving. In the vast majority of cases, this is due to improper operation of the oil filter.

A new oil filter on a VAZ 2114 is installed manually

Solution: Remove the oil filter and inspect it for damage. If they cannot be identified, you should replace the filter with a new one. Before replacing the filter, you should read the vehicle's operating instructions and become familiar with the brands of filters recommended by the manufacturer, as well as their main characteristics. A new filter should be selected taking this information into account. If you cannot find a device recommended by the manufacturer on sale, you should pay attention to products from well-known brands with similar characteristics. While doing this, you should remember: a good oil filter does not come cheap. And saving on this device can lead to catastrophic consequences for the engine, which cannot be eliminated by any repair.

Design

Oil pump VAZ 2109

Today there are three types of pumps:

• 2-gear pumps, in which one gear is connected to a shaft, which starts working from the intermediate or camshaft of the VAZ. This pump is installed inside a sump located in the lower area of ​​the cylinder block. Typically, the rotation speed of the element is ½ the rotation speed of the motor.
• A gerotor pump has a rotating small gear inside an outer gear. This pump is located in the lower area of ​​the motor in the sump.

Old style oil pump

The internal pump is often installed on the front cover of the engine. It begins to function from the crankshaft. Structurally, such a mechanism is similar to a gerotor mechanism, but in this situation it replaces the front damper of the engine. As a result, it is possible to generate higher oil flow with higher pressure.

What should the engine oil pressure be?

There is no uniform standard for engine oil pressure, and the reason is simple: the design of motor systems from different car manufacturers has some differences. But even here there is one general rule: the oil pressure at idle speed on the engine cannot be higher than in load mode. The fact is that the faster the system elements rotate, the more lubrication they require.

To understand what the indicator we are interested in should be, it is necessary to imagine the principle of its measurement. Modern cars are equipped with special sensors - they monitor the condition of the oil in the system. Unfortunately, they are not accurate in all cases, but a triggered sensor can both save money on repairs and save lives. And if repairs are still required, it will cost a lot.

The operating manual for the vehicle indicates the main technical characteristics and operating modes of the lubricant. You can also usually find brands of fluids that are best suited for a particular engine. By the way, manufacturers offer branded oil under the brand of automakers.

You can find indicators that are considered normal in the repair and operation manual for your car.

So, for the famous Russian car “Lada Priora” at idle the norm is 196.2 kPa, that is, about 2 bar, and at 5,400 rpm the norm is 4.5–6.5 bar. This level is considered the maximum for the car.

Manufacturers of American brands usually write normal pressure per 1,000 rpm. At 1,000 rpm the average is 10 psi (or 67 kPa). For example, at 2,000 rpm the norm is 1.3 bar, and at 5,000 rpm the figure increases to 3.4 bar. But when assessing these indicators, we should not forget about the difference between domestic cars and foreign cars, as well as the differences in operating conditions.

The level of normal oil pressure in the engine is influenced by many factors:

• engine displacement;
• number of cylinders;
• number of valves per cylinder (2–4) in the timing system;
• volume of oil poured at a time;
• turbocharged internal combustion engine or naturally aspirated;
• gasoline or diesel engine;
• in-line, V (W) shaped, opposed arrangement of cylinders.

For example, for a VAZ-2106, the minimum oil pressure at engine idle speed is 0.2 bar - it can be tracked using the arrow on the panel. If the level is insufficient, the red indicator on the panel lights up. On older models it looks like a red lamp, on new ones it is a watering can icon. For a VAZ-2106, the oil pressure on a warm engine at speeds up to 4,500 per minute should be about 4-5 bar. In other words, the pressure increases in direct proportion to the increase in speed.

But you need to understand that if your car runs on a diesel engine, the picture will be different. Let's look at this using the example of a Mercedes Benz Vito with engine 611980. For this 2.2 liter unit, the oil pressure in a diesel engine is considered to be 0.3 bar at idle speed. In the area of ​​the green scale, this figure rises to 3–3.5; if the value is too low, you should make sure that the car’s lubrication system is working properly.

If we consider ZMZ motors, the situation here is not much different. For the 405 engine, 0.4 bar at idle and 4 at high speeds (2 or more) are considered normal. Previously, all the necessary data could be obtained thanks to the arrow indicator, but now, after the release of GAZelle Business, they are displayed by the on-board computer on the dashboard, and with an accuracy of hundredths.

In the Chevrolet Lacetti 1.4 engine, the minimum DM level is 0.6 bar at idle, while at 3,000–3,5000 the oil pressure on a hot engine rises to 3 bar.

Today, the most productive pumps are equipped with VAZ models, namely the Lada Priora and VAZ 2110 with a 16-valve engine. Therefore, at idle the DM does not rise above 1 bar, and at 5,000 the needle reaches 6–6.5.

In the case of the Renault Logan, everything is different: for engines with an 8-valve timing belt, the normal value is 0.3 bar at idle. Whereas for 16-valve engines this level is twice as high.

An increase or decrease in DM relative to factory standards has a negative impact on engine performance. An insufficient indicator provokes oil starvation, which increases friction between the elements of the system, and this leads to their rapid wear and may even cause the engine to jam. Too high a level breaks the tightness of the connections, which causes leaks of seals and gaskets, and squeezing out of the seals.

The oil pressure light comes on after warming up: possible causes

If we talk about the situation when the oil pressure light comes on when the engine heats up, in this case you need to take into account that there are several main reasons:

• reduced lubrication level in the engine;
• motor oil is not suitable for the engine;
• the lubricating fluid has lost its properties;
• malfunctions of the lubrication system and internal combustion engine;

First of all, if the oil pressure is on, it is highly not recommended to operate such an engine until the problems are identified and completely eliminated. So, let's start with the simplest reason. We are talking about a banal decrease in the level of lubrication in the engine. Oil can leak out for various reasons, ranging from a broken oil pan to increased fuel consumption, oil leakage in the turbine area, etc.

Also, the unit itself may be worn out, that is, the engine “eats” oil and emits oil smoke due to problems with the CPG or valve stem seals. One way or another, if you do not monitor the lubricant level, if it drops before the power plant warms up, the oil remains thicker and the “cold” light may not light up.

However, after reaching operating temperatures and heating the lubricant, the material naturally liquefies and becomes more fluid. It is also worth remembering that the gaps between the mating parts in the engine are somewhat reduced, and it becomes more difficult for the oil pump to maintain the required pressure while pumping liquid oil through the system.

If we add to this a partial lack of lubrication, then it becomes clear why the pressure lamp begins to light up after the internal combustion engine has warmed up. To solve the problem, you need to add oil to the engine.

Then you can continue to add lubricant to the level for some time or immediately eliminate the leak (replacing oil seals, valve stem seals, piston rings) depending on the specific situation. If the engine is very worn out, then it is better to immediately undertake a comprehensive overhaul.

• Let's move on. In many cases, the cause of low pressure may be the oil itself. For example, if a lubricant is poured into the power unit, which according to SAE does not correspond to that recommended by the car manufacturer according to the manual (for example, the driver filled in 0W20 instead of 5W40), then after warming up the lubricant will be very liquid.

In such a situation, it is quite likely that even serviceable engine oil seals and gaskets will leak, which naturally leads to a decrease in the oil level, and the pressure in the oil system will be lowered. To prevent this from happening, the oil must be selected correctly in terms of viscosity and a number of other important characteristics.

It is also important to consider that the lubricant may lose its properties for other reasons. For example, a significant increase in the planned replacement interval (instead of 10-15 thousand km, the lubricant worked for 20-30 thousand).

Also, loss of properties often occurs after mixing oil with antifreeze. In this case, it is appropriate to talk about a serious breakdown when coolant enters the oil system. This is often caused by cracks in the cylinder block and cylinder head, malfunctions and breakdowns of the head gasket, etc.

The problem can be quickly diagnosed by an increase in the oil level and a decrease in the level of antifreeze in the expansion tank, as well as by the presence of an emulsion under the oil filler cap and on the oil dipstick.

Fuel, which penetrates in excess from the combustion chamber into the crankcase pan, can also change the properties of the lubricant. Often, the problem does not arise on its own, since a violation of the combustion of the mixture in the cylinder leads to engine tripping (the cylinder does not work and the mixture does not burn).

There are many reasons for engine tripping (malfunctions in the power supply system, low compression, lack of spark on the spark plugs, etc.). Also, the injectors can “flow” even when the engine is turned off. In this case, the unit does not move during operation, but fuel still gets into the lubricant. In any case, gasoline in the oil can greatly dilute the lubricant, which will inevitably lead to pressure problems.

It should also be added that adding different types of lubricants, which leads to mixing of engine oil (for example, synthetics and mineral oil), can also lead to the loss of properties of the bulk of the lubricant. The same can be said about the use of various additives and additives (detergents, viscosity agents, stabilizing agents, protective agents, etc.).

Before adding oil or using any additive in the engine, you must take into account all possible risks and effects on the base lubricant.

• Now let's move on to engine and oil system malfunctions. As already mentioned, significant wear on the CPG and an increase in gaps often lead to the oil pressure lamp coming on at idle, on a cold engine, or after the engine has warmed up.

You should also remember that the oil receiver strainer may also be clogged. If a sufficient amount of lubricating fluid does not pass through the filter, then oil starvation of the engine will begin with all the ensuing consequences.

The mesh can become clogged for various reasons. As a rule, the throughput of the mesh is reduced by contaminants that have accumulated in large quantities in the pan. By the way, the detachment of such contaminants from the walls often occurs after the engine was washed before changing the oil with so-called five-minute washes to clean the engine oil system.

The fact is that washing allows such deposits to peel off, but does not dissolve them. As a result, even a working oil pump is not able to pump the lubricant, and the oil pressure burns. To solve the problem, you need to remove the crankcase oil pan, after which the oil receiver mesh is cleaned mechanically or using active solvents. After such an operation, the difficulties in passing oil through the filter mesh will be eliminated.

We also recommend reading the article on how to check engine oil pressure. From this article you will learn what the oil pressure in the lubrication system should be, as well as how measurements are taken.

At the same time, do not forget about the more familiar oil filter, which must be changed along with each lubricant change. If the oil filter is clogged, then this may well be the cause of the pressure problems. It is also important to consider that even a new filter may turn out to be unsuitable for the motor, of poor quality or defective. For this reason, you need to know how to choose the best oil filter for your engine.

Finally, we note that the pressure reducing valve and the oil pump itself deserve special attention. In the case of a valve, this element must remain in the closed position until the oil pressure exceeds the permissible limit. However, if the valve jams in a partially or fully open position, then it is not possible to obtain the required pressure in the lubrication system.

As for the oil pump, its malfunction can be considered a serious breakdown, since the device loses proper performance or completely stops pumping oil. The result is the need to remove the element from the engine. Next, a decision is made to repair the oil pump (if possible) or immediately replace the pump with a new one.