How to repair a telescopic stand on a VAZ 2110, 11, 12.

AvtoVAZ supports died within half a year. Moderately tough. Not reliable. MONROE worked for a year without any complaints. Very soft, really very soft. You need to be extremely careful when installing. I damaged one during installation and had to buy a new one. Overall, I was pleased with the MONROE supports. The assomies have been standing for 3 years now. They are tough. Very reliable. It's been 4 years of use. Never let us down. I recommend Assomi to everyone!

3. Rubber salen blocks.

Front hinge cushion 2108-2904050 – 2 pcs. Lower arm joint 2108-2904040 — 2 pcs. Rear extension joint 2108-2904046 – 4 pcs. Rod cushion 2110-2906040 – 2 pcs. Stabilizer strut 2110-2906050 – 2 pcs. Reason for replacing the salenblocks: Visual deformation + deterioration of rubber parts. Selection of salen blocks Rubber salen blocks were all installed from the manufacturer BRT. There is also an alternative manufacturer that is not inferior in its characteristics, this is Rosteco. I really like Rosteco products, but not polyurethane. I am against polyurethane parts, because at low temperatures they begin to creak. Tested by personal experience.

4. Spring

Reason for replacing springs I changed the springs due to deformation of the coils. The paint on the old springs was all peeling off and they were rusty. Choice. I supplied the springs to AvtoVAZ Article 2112-2902712. The color of the springs is black with red markings. I wanted to install springs with blue markings, they seem to be softer, but I couldn’t find them. Overall I was pleased with the springs. When installing the springs on the strut, I used SS20 sound insulators. Result: The front of the car rose a couple of centimeters. The noise on the bumps has disappeared.

5. Compression stroke buffer (Chipper)

Reason for replacing the bumper The old bumper became unusable and simply fell apart.
Choice. I installed the bumpers from the manufacturer PromTehPlast, white. Article: 2110-2902816. There are also yellow bumpers made in Syzran. I liked them less in appearance. For the white bumpers, I can say that it’s been 3 years since they’ve been on my car, they’re like new. I periodically check the chassis, everything is fine with them. 6. Protective casing (Boots of the struts)
Reason for replacing the boots of the struts There were numerous cracks on the boot of the struts, which indicated that they had already seen a lot.
Choice. Anthers should only be installed on BRT and the original. Unfortunately, we came across a cooperative. The lifespan of cooperative ones is 2-3 months, after which they fall apart before our eyes. Article: 2110-2905681. 7. Ball joint
Reason for replacing the ball joint. The chassis had knocking noises on bumps. Having rested the pry bar between the ball joint pin and the lever, press the pry bar and see the play. Play in the ball joint is unacceptable. Selection For the experiment, the following ball joints were taken: 1. TRW Article No.: JBJ156 2. AvtoVAZ Article No.: 2110-¬2904192 3. Track Champion Article No.: 2108-2904185ТЧ Result: I did not notice any difference between the ball joints. Everything is of good quality. I drove the first two for about 3 months. The last ones were TRACK. They have been standing for 3 years already. There are no problems observed. The rest are in stock. We liked the track because of its transparent boot, which in turn makes it possible to control the presence of lubricant before installation and the ingress of water into the support during operation.

8. Steering end

Reason for replacing tie rod ends.
At speed, it felt like the car was not driving smoothly, but seemed to be floating. I had to catch her on the highway. Lifting the wheel with a jack and moving the wheel from side to side with your hands, a clear play was visible. Choice. The following tips were taken for the experiment: 1. LEMFOERDER Article number: 2526001 left, 2526101 right. 2. Bel Mag (set of 2 pcs.), Article: BM.3106 3. AvtoVAZ Article: 2110-3414057 left, 2110-3414056 right. Result: Limferder died almost immediately. MTBF was 3 months. Next I installed the AvtoVAZ tips Article number: 2110-3414057 left, 2110-3414056 right. AvtoVAZ tips have served me to this day for 3-4 years. Bel Mag lies in the box and waits for its time. 9. CV joint (Grenades)
The reason for replacing the internal CV joints. At speed, when releasing the clutch pedal, there was a knocking sound, like metal hitting metal. It happened once and then disappeared until you released the clutch again. It was clearly audible on the highway. Choice. Now the market offers a large list of CV joints, both domestic and imported. When comparing CV joints, the choice fell on AvtoVAZ. I liked the quality of the metal processing (there are no rough traces of mechanical processing). Traces of heat treatment (tarnished color) are clearly visible. Clear manufacturer markings on the CV joint and boot. Article: 21080-2215056. Result: The metallic knock when releasing the clutch pedal has disappeared. Reason for replacing outer CV joints. The outer CV joints were replaced due to large play. The backlash is checked when the entire drive is removed. You hold the shaft with one hand, and with the other you move the CV joint from side to side. Also, when moving the car backwards, the engine jerked violently. The problem was solved after replacing the CV joint. Apparently he was wedged. The working play on the new CV joints was 3-4 mm, while on the old ones it was 10-12 mm. Choice. The CV joint was installed by AvtoVAZ Article: 2110-2215012. I chose it according to the same criteria as the inner CV joint.

10. Body reinforcements

1. Stretching the front struts UR2

Front strut stretching

Information from the official website of Tehnomaster: — the accuracy of car control when turning is increased; — increases vehicle stability when driving in a straight line; — deformation of the body is reduced when the car moves around corners and on uneven roads, which significantly reduces the likelihood of fatigue cracks appearing on the body;

Conclusion after installation: I cannot say that I felt any changes after installing this amplifier. Perhaps something has changed, but not significantly.

2. Bulkhead amplifier 2110 Information from the official website of Tehnomaster: — The removable bulkhead amplifier reduces the deformation of the bulkhead in the area of ​​the crankcase mounting brackets and the movement of the crankcase mounting studs under a load on the steering wheel of ±40 N*m by half. — The movement of the crankcase after installing the amplifier is reduced by 2.5 times, and the steering wheel rotation angles are reduced by about 10 degrees. Explanation: with a load on the steering wheel of ±40 N*m, the steering wheel rotation angles without power are 53-54 degrees and 42-45 degrees with power.

Conclusion after installation: I cannot say that I felt any changes after installing this amplifier. Perhaps something has changed, but not significantly.

3. Stretch of levers (lower) – VAZ 2110-2112 (AR 0160 / AR10-2801070) Information from the official website Auto product: Confident cornering at speed. Increased body life. Reduces the movement of the front suspension arm bracket by more than 3 times. Reduces stress in the arm bracket and the spar-to-floor connector by 35%. Reduces stress in the bulkhead and right steering gear bracket by 8.5%.

Conclusion after installation: The result was pleasantly surprising. The car became tougher. Handling is better. I began to take turns more confidently. To be honest, I didn’t expect the result to be so noticeable. Perhaps this result was obtained as a result of installing the amplifiers described earlier.

Shock absorber strut for VAZ 2110

Deterioration in controllability and decrease in comfort of the VAZ 2110 car may be a consequence of the failure of the shock absorber strut. A malfunction often causes loss of control over the machine, which creates the risk of getting into an emergency situation.

Therefore, when identifying the first symptoms of the end of life or breakdown of struts, the car owner should immediately carry out diagnostics and, if necessary, repair or replacement.

On the VAZ 2110 there are pillars that differ from each other on the right and left sides. In addition, the units are divided by design into gas and oil. Early modifications of the machine used collapsible rack housings. Subsequently they were replaced with solid ones. For the left side, units with catalog numbers are used:

• 21100290540303;
• 21102905581;
• 21700290500300;
• 21700290540303;

Right-hand shock absorber struts for the VAZ 2110 have catalog numbers:

• 21100290540203;
• 21102905580;
• 21700290500200;
• 21102905002;

The left-hand and right-hand front shock absorber struts of the VAZ 2110 have a similar cost. The price of the unit ranges from 600 to 2000 rubles.

Catalog number and cost of good front shock absorber struts for VAZ 2110 from third-party manufacturers

In addition to the original shock absorber struts, car owners have the opportunity to supply analogues from third-party manufacturers. The tables below provide the best alternative brands for right-hand and left-hand units.

Table - Good analogues of the right front shock absorber struts

Table - Well-proven alternatives to the front left original struts

Article number and estimated cost for the original rear shock absorber struts of the VAZ 2110

The rear shock absorber struts do not differ depending on the mounting side. They are completely interchangeable and have the same part numbers. At the same time, the designs of the components used on the VAZ 2110 car of various modifications differ. There are gas and oil shock absorber struts. The first ones come with catalog number 21100291540220, and the second ones - 21100291540201.

The price for native products is about 1200-1800 rubles. The cost does not particularly depend on the design features of the unit. At the same time, when purchasing a shock absorber strut from a car wrecker, the car owner will have to pay from 450 rubles.

Choosing which ones to buy

It is impossible to say unequivocally which front struts are best to choose for the VAZ 2110. Some choose factory ones because they are not rigid enough for them, others prefer analogues for their softer and more comfortable behavior.

Some people even want to install a sports version of struts , since they are the stiffest and the springs are the thickest.

Sports

The choice is between oil and gas (gas-oil, actually). The former are more affordable from a financial point of view, but they do not have such a wide temperature range, which is why the shock absorbers become stiffer in winter.

Gas analogues have a more complex design, a high price, but an excellent “tenacity” indicator.

Among the manufacturers, in addition to CC20, the following manufacturing companies can be distinguished:

All of them have approximately the same devices, so there should be no problems with selecting suitable parts.

Article number and cost of good analogs of original rear shock absorber struts for VAZ 2110

For shock absorber struts, which are located on the rear axle of the VAZ 2110, there are a number of analogues from third-party manufacturers. Some of them are low-grade outright defects, but there are also good auto parts. The table below shows the best brands whose racks are recommended for installation by experienced drivers.

Table - Recommended analogues

Selection of new parts

Before changing the racks on the VAZ “tenth” model, you must first purchase new elements. It can be quite difficult to choose them from a wide range of products from different manufacturers offered by car dealerships. You are unlikely to find inexpensive parts of good quality; what is offered for sale under the VAZ brand will last half as long as factory shock absorbers. Hence the recommendation: consider options from famous brands, provided that they are not fake:

Among the Russian manufacturers, the products of the Samara SS 20 plant have performed well; reviews from car enthusiasts about them are generally positive. When you plan to replace front shock absorbers, in addition to choosing a manufacturer, you need to think about the type of struts. There are traditional oil and gas-oil models, and the latter are significantly more expensive and a little tougher. But they behave confidently on the road and last longer. Oil models run smoother and are more suitable for those who like a comfortable ride.

Preliminary preparation for replacement

In the process of installing a new shock absorber strut on a VAZ 2110, the car owner has to dismantle a number of parts. Most of them have a resource that is comparable to the service of the node they are replacing. Therefore, it is recommended to purchase additional boots, bumpers, fasteners and other suspension parts.

A kit that may be needed when replacing racks

Appearance of the boot

Replacing the strut is a great time for suspension tuning. Therefore, additional spare parts may be needed. For example, to change the ride height and chassis stiffness, you will need an intercoil spacer or a set of stock springs. It is also recommended to purchase elements for tuning in advance before installing a new rack.

Additional recommendations

Before you begin assembling all the components of the VAZ-2112, you should perform several additional manipulations:

• treat all insert elements with kerosene;
• Before direct installation, carefully inspect each element, even a new one, to ensure its integrity and quality;
• The final fixation of the mounting bolts should be carried out after the jack has been removed;
• After assembling all components, it is recommended to carry out a special wheel alignment check.

We recommend: Steering - how to repair the steering column on a VAZ 2106, 2107 with your own hands

Required tools for DIY replacement

In order for the replacement of the front shock absorber struts to be successful with your own hands, it is recommended that you first prepare the following list of tools.

Table - Tools required to replace the front strut

Features of the work, useful tips

1. If the nut is firmly stuck to the bolt and cannot be unscrewed, do not use a hammer or sledgehammer. After treatment with a penetrating solvent, the assembly can be heated using a hair dryer and the part can be easily removed. Do not direct hot air at plastic or rubber parts!
2. To increase the force, use wrenches with a long handle. You can use an extension made of steel pipe.
3. When working with stuck fasteners, do not use ratchet handles or torque wrenches. First, “break” the jammed nut with a regular wrench.
4. When working on suspension components, do not tighten fasteners immediately. Tighten the nuts lightly and lower the vehicle to the ground (without a jack or supports), then apply final tightening using a torque wrench.
5. If you do not have enough experience in carrying out such work, take photographs of the disassembly process. This will help to correctly assemble the unit after repair.

It must be remembered that the suspension is directly related to driving safety. Therefore, after assembly, carefully check the correct installation and fastening of all components. Before venturing out onto public roads, test drive in an area without heavy traffic.

Replacing and repairing shock absorber struts in front-wheel drive VAZ models is a regular procedure that it is advisable for any car owner to master. Thus, you will avoid additional costs for visiting a car service center.

Replacing front shock absorber struts on a VAZ 2110

Instructions for replacing the front shock absorber strut on a VAZ 2110 are presented below.

• Open the hood.
• Unscrew the nuts that secure the support to the body cup.

Location of the nuts securing the upper support to the body cup

• Pull out the cotter pin.

• Unscrew the nut securing the tie rod end.

The process of unscrewing the nut

• Press the tie rod end pin out of its seat. It is convenient to use a special puller for this. If it is not available, you should use a pry bar with a hammer.

Pressing out the tie rod end pin using a special puller

• Disconnect the lower part of the strut from the steering knuckle. Since the fastening in most cases sticks strongly, it is recommended to pre-treat the working surface generously with penetrating lubricant.

Unscrewing the lower part of the shock absorber strut

• Remove the stand.

Removing the Stand

• Compress the spring with zip ties.

Spring compression

• Unscrew the stem nut.
• Disassemble the module.
• Carry out troubleshooting.
• Replace faulty elements with new ones.
• Install everything in reverse order.
• Upon completion of work, it is imperative to check and adjust the wheel alignment angles.

List of tools required for replacement

The table below presents a list of tools without which it is impossible to replace the rear shock absorber strut on a VAZ 2110.

Table - Tools required to replace the rear strut

Required Tools

We determine that the element has failed

There are several signs by which a malfunction can be identified:

• The body vibrates intensely on the comb on the side of the damaged shock absorber;
• There is a beating sensation in the steering wheel;
• The braking distance becomes longer;
• When turning, the car skids;
• Traces of oil leaks;
• When driving in a straight line, the car drifts to the side;
• There are knocks and extraneous noises in the rack.

Device diagram
If you do not repair the front struts in a timely manner at a service station or with your own hands, this can lead to dire consequences:

• The support bearings will be destroyed;
• Tires will wear unevenly, jump, and form bumps on the rubber surface;
• The wheel bearings will fail;
• The braking distance will become longer, which is dangerous on any section of the road;
• The brake pads will malfunction and their service life will be significantly reduced.

There are two main ways to check elements for malfunction. One is professional, the other is artisanal, but also quite effective.

1. Special vibration stand. A car is driven onto it, and the computer calculates the efficiency of the shock absorbers. It should be noted that new racks may show a result of about 75%, but this is quite normal. If the percentage is less than 50, then it’s time to change the part.
2. Manual rocking. You need to grab the front of the car, its wing, and start swinging. Try to achieve the maximum amplitude that your body weight allows. If anything, ask a friend to help. The point is to suddenly remove your hands after swinging and look at the car. If it immediately returns to its original position and does not fluctuate anymore, then everything is fine. If even a slight vibration is detected, you can assume that it is advisable to replace the racks in the near future.