Lada Kalina jerks when accelerating

Recently, several not very pleasant symptoms have appeared on my Kalina, a list of which I have given below:

The car began to jerk at low speeds. This was especially pronounced when shifting, if the speed was not too low for a particular gear
Idle speed has become a little unstable, but the spread is small: from 800 to 880 rpm
Fuel consumption has increased slightly. If earlier the instantaneous flow rate at idle was 0.8-0.9 l/hour at a temperature of 83 °C, now it has become 0.9-1 l/hour.

In general, I drove with this problem for about a month, and at first I thought that the quality of gasoline played a negative role. But after refueling at another gas station, everything was the same. Of course, all this was not particularly annoying, since the symptoms were barely noticeable, except that twitching in the lower parts sometimes bothered me.

In general, yesterday I finally decided to deal with this problem, and the first thing I decided to check was the throttle position sensor. It seemed to me that he was responsible for all the problems that arose. I have quite a few similar sensors in stock, so I decided to take the latest one from Kalina 11194. I installed it instead of mine, and now for the second day the problem has not appeared.

That is, everything became the same. The revs became more stable, the car stopped jerking, although I deliberately lowered the revs until the car practically refused to drive in a certain gear. As for fuel consumption at idle, it also returned to normal: 0.9-0.8 l/hour.

Lada Kalina 1.6, 8 cells. When driving slowly in courtyards, when police are passing, or on roads with potholes. When you press the gas smoothly, the car moves jerkily and jerks. I washed the throttle body, it became a little better, but not for long. The car again began to move jerkily and jerk even more.

Car jerks when accelerating

Back to the club VAZ / Lada (Lada) Kalina people, such a crap - when moving from 1st to 2nd speed, when I press the gas smoothly, acceleration proceeds normally, but if I press the slipper more, the car starts to twitch and only then accelerates. This recently started happening after a full tank of gas was filled with new gas, so to speak. I've been driving this tank for two weeks now. Could this be due to the gasoline? before everything was normal, viburnum 1.4

neither the spark plugs nor the coils have been changed since the previous owner, as long as they were with him - idk. Well, it's definitely not because of the gasoline?

Possibly condensation. Try to drown it as much as possible and fill it with 95-one, it removes condensate well

and gasoline could also be the culprit.

not long ago there was a dip in the gas, if you suddenly need to pick up speed, the car jerked up to 2.5 revolutions, but then everything became normal, went to the diagnostics, showed that there was a misfire in cylinder 1, the diagnostician said change the coil. The coil broke, replaced it, bought new ones, everything is fine.

To find out exactly where, do you need to do a shorter diagnosis? Well, I'll try to fill it with another gas first. If it doesn't help, you'll have to send it for diagnostics.

yes, start small. Well, look at the spark plugs, there is oil in the wells of 16kL engines

The other day I changed the coil myself, but I didn’t know that it was drizzling. 800 rubles for a coil, although in the store it’s 600 and 150 rubles for work and 500 rubles for diagnostics. Here

Yes, she doesn’t seem to eat butter. I’m telling you, this crap recently began to appear when I filled up a whole tank of 95 gasoline. I went somewhere for a week, everything was fine, and then such failures began

There was a case - here a guy from Kirov asked for help and said he refueled, drove 30 km and started getting stuck and sometimes tripping. We took out the pump, and there was an emulsion at the bottom of the tank, floating in large spots

tough((but what’s interesting is that there are failures precisely when switching to speed 2. When I switch to speed 3 from the second, everything is fine

pull the coils out of the wells and look at the rubber bands (insulators) What year is the car?

The car jerks in first gear or second speed: fault diagnosis

As mentioned above, in such a situation, the first step is to gradually eliminate problems in the power supply system, ignition, as well as failures in the ECM. For example, a common reason when the car jerks at low speeds when engaging first and/or second gear is insufficient fuel/air supply to the engine or impaired mixture formation.

Various ECM sensors (Hall sensor, TPS, mass air flow sensor, etc.) can also malfunction. If everything is fine with the sensors, then you need to check the engine ECU. Quite often, the problem of jerking in 1st-2nd gear is directly related to the ignition. It is necessary to check the condition of the spark plugs and high-voltage wires, distributor and other elements on a particular machine.

As a rule, if the car drives jerkily, in relation to injection cars, specialists conduct comprehensive computer diagnostics of the engine. If such a check does not produce results or the cause is not found, then the vehicle’s transmission deserves special attention.

So, if your car is noticeably jerky in 1st and/or 2nd gear, it is important to understand that the transmission may also be causing the car to jerk when driving. At the same time, it is easier to determine the cause in the case of a manual transmission, while various types of automatic transmissions require more serious checks

Let's start with the manual transmission.

Please note that if an inexperienced driver's car jerks in first gear when starting off, it should be borne in mind that often beginners simply make mistakes when releasing the clutch, while the car itself is working properly

To start without jerking, you need to smoothly release the clutch before the driver feels the grip point (the beginning of the transmission of torque from the engine to the wheels). After the force begins to be transmitted to the wheels and the car begins to move, you need to carefully add gas, dosing the traction with the pedal accelerator.

But jerking is usually caused by problems with the clutch on the manual transmission or its adjustments. For example, a car jerks in first and second when the clutch driven disc is badly worn, the clutch does not “close” completely, and slips. This leads to the car jerking when changing gears.

In this case, jerks most often appear precisely in “low” gears (first, second speed), when the smoothest possible operation of the clutch is needed and at the same time, through the clutch in these gears, a sufficiently large torque is transmitted from the internal combustion engine to the gearbox when accelerating the car.

Now let's move on to automatic transmissions. First of all, you need to take into account that the quality of operation and smoothness of automatic transmission shifts will depend on the type of automatic transmission.

First of all, jerking can occur when driving with robotic gearboxes that have both one and two clutches. The fact is that the clutch of such gearboxes resembles in its design and principle of operation a conventional friction clutch of a manual transmission. Often the solution to the problem is to replace the DSG or AMT clutch, after which it is imperative to adapt the clutch (training, setting the grip point).

Also, in some cases, the culprit that the car jerks when driving in 1-2 gears may be breakdowns and malfunctions in the actuators that are responsible for the operation of the clutch in automated mode.

It should also be noted that the automatic transmission itself can “slip”, and the quality of its operation greatly depends on the level/condition of the transmission oil (ATF fluid). Jerking in automatic transmissions of this type may occur due to insufficient or overfilled oil, the use of a lubricant with unsuitable properties, etc.

About the transmission

Now a few words about the transmission, since it can also cause jerks when driving.

As you know, cars use manual and automatic transmissions.

As for a manual transmission, the gearbox and everything that follows it cannot cause jerking.

A manual transmission is a fairly simple design, and if it already breaks, it breaks specifically, and not creating jerks.

But the clutch can cause jerking. If it is heavily worn, in particular the driven disk, or “slips,” then the car easily begins to twitch.

But as a rule, jerking and twitching with such malfunctions occurs during gear shifting.

In automatic transmissions, the cause of the jerking is the gearbox itself.

It is very dependent on the quantity and quality of oil, so a lack of oil or its foaming can easily cause uneven running of the car.

You can measure the oil level in the automatic transmission using a dipstick.

Or without.

It all depends on the design of the automatic transmission.

How to measure the oil level in an automatic transmission.

Significant wear of the automatic transmission, as well as clogged oil channels, also causes the car to jerk at all speeds.

Car repairs

Useful tips for car repairs

LADA KALINA: JERKING AT THE BEGINNING OF MOVEMENT

At the moment the movement begins, the limiting case of a jerk—failure—most often occurs. The most unpleasant sensations are associated precisely with the delay in the engine’s response to pressing the accelerator pedal. Sometimes the engine even stalls. A jerk occurs at the moment the throttle valve begins to open, when, based on a signal from the throttle position sensor, the ECU determines the moment of transition from idle mode to load mode and must increase the amount of fuel supplied through the injectors. If the pressure in the fuel line is insufficient (even if the injection duration is increased), there is not enough fuel for a smooth start. therefore it is necessary to check the pressure in the rail.

The main indicator of the health of the engine power system is the fuel pressure in the fuel rail.

If the fuel pressure is insufficient, the following may occur:

– unstable engine operation;

– stopping the engine at idle speed;

– reduced crankshaft rotation speed at idle;

– insufficient acceleration of the car (the engine does not develop full power);

– failures in engine operation when the vehicle is moving.

To begin with, we recommend checking the reliability of the electrical contacts in the ECM wiring harness blocks responsible for the fuel supply (fuel pump module, injectors, fuel relay and corresponding fuses).

The fuel pressure in the power system is checked using a professional pressure gauge and a hose with an original fitting for connection to the valve located on the fuel rail.

1. Turn on the ignition and listen: within a few seconds you should hear the sound of the electric fuel pump. If you can't hear it, check the electric fuel pump power supply circuit.

NoteIf you turned on the ignition three times without attempting to start the engine, the electric fuel pump will not turn on again, which is not a sign of a malfunction. It will turn on simultaneously with the starter starting the engine. 3. Unscrew the protective cap of the fitting for monitoring the fuel pressure at the end of the fuel rail

Please note that the cap has an O-ring. If the ring is torn or has lost elasticity, replace it or the entire cap

Note For clarity, the operation is shown with the decorative engine cover removed.

Helpful advice If it is not possible to use a professional pressure gauge, use a regular pressure gauge with a hose and clamp. The pressure gauge must have a measurement scale of no more than 1000 kPa (10 kgf/cm2) and a division value of no more than 20 kPa (0.2 kgf/cm2)

Pay attention to the reliable connection (rolling) of the pressure gauge and hose

4. Using a metal tire valve protective cap, unscrew the valve spool (the same as in the tire)…

Note When turning the spool valve out, a small amount of fuel may leak out, so first place a rag under the fitting.

5. ...and remove it from the fitting.

6. Connect a hose with a pressure gauge to the fitting. Secure the hose to the fitting with a clamp and check the reliability of its fastening. Start the engine and check the pressure using the pressure gauge. It should be 380–400 kPa (3.8–4.0 kgf/cm2).

The following reasons for decreased pressure are possible:

– the fuel pressure regulator is faulty;

– the fine fuel filter or fuel inlet filter is clogged;

7. Stop the engine and reduce the pressure in the power system (see “Reducing fuel pressure in the engine power system”).

8. Disconnect the pressure gauge from the pressure control fitting, screw the spool into the fitting and install the protective cap on the fitting.

VAZ 2114 injector

Owners of VAZ 2114 cars with an injector often complain about the appearance of car jerking and loss of traction. The first thing you need to do is connect to the diagnostic connector and look for errors.

The most common problems that may occur are:

P0327 - knock sensor, low voltage;
P1602 - unstable voltage;
P2127 - gas pedal position sensor, low voltage;
P2138 - gas pedal position sensor, signal mismatch.

In this case, you need to look at what error Check appears. Most often this is P2127, so this is what you need to pay attention to.

After connecting, you need to look at the information that the sensors provide when you press the gas.

If after pressing the accelerator the indicators change significantly, this may indicate a violation of the resistive layer.

The following steps may be required to resolve the issue:

Take off the gas pedal.
Loosen the mounting screws.
Remove the cover.
Wipe the circuit with an alcohol solution.
Reassemble the pedal and put it in place. Don't change your position.
Take measurements using a potentiometer.

If the data is static, and after releasing the gas the voltage parameters do not change, this indicates a solution to the problem.

Also look at the knock signal for different cylinders. If any of them has a low parameter, this may indicate a problem with the sensor and the need to replace it.

THE VEHICLE MOVES JERKLY

In relation to a car, a jerk is a short-term spontaneous change in the engine crankshaft speed, regardless of the position of the gas pedal. In everyday use, as a rule, there are a series of jerks.

The extreme case of a jerk is a failure - a noticeable delay in the engine's response to pressing the accelerator pedal.

Conventionally, three types of jerks can be distinguished: - at the moment of movement; - during acceleration; - during steady movement, i.e. with the accelerator pedal in constant position.

To determine the causes of jerks when driving a car with an injection engine, special diagnostic equipment is required, so in this case we recommend contacting a car service center that specializes in repairing fuel injection systems. However, as practice shows, in most cases jerking is caused by insufficient fuel pressure in the engine fuel line (rail) or a malfunction of the throttle position sensor. With some skills, you can determine the cause of jerking yourself.

Jerking when the car starts moving

A jerk occurs at the moment the throttle valve begins to open, when, based on a signal from the throttle position sensor, the electronic control unit determines the moment of transition from idle mode to load mode and must increase the amount of fuel supplied through the injectors.

If the pressure in the fuel line is insufficient (even if the injection duration is increased), there is not enough fuel for a smooth start.

Jerking when accelerating a car

The cause of jerking during acceleration may be, as in the previous case, insufficient fuel pressure in the fuel line.

The electronic engine control unit, having received a signal from the throttle position sensor about the intensive opening of the damper at a large angle, strives to maximize the fuel supply, but due to the reduced fuel pressure it is not able to do this.

Jerks during steady vehicle movement

Such jerking is most often caused by a malfunction of the ignition system. Diagnosis and repair are required.

On the way, you can try to do the following yourself: - carefully inspect the engine compartment. Turn off the ignition and check the secure fastening and seating of all wires and connectors at the ignition coil and high-voltage wires.

Start the engine and listen to its operation: the crackling sound when the high voltage breaks down to ground is weak, but distinct. In complete darkness, the spark during breakdown is clearly visible;

— replace spark plugs regardless of their condition and mileage.

Pay attention to the condition of the spark plugs: if it is not up to standard, the engine or its systems may need to be repaired

Additional symptoms confirming the malfunction of this sensor: - uneven operation of the engine at idle;

- reduction in maximum engine power.

Automatic transmission

The situation when a problem with jerking occurs on an automatic transmission deserves special attention.

In this case, the following reasons are possible.

Control block

ECU malfunction is one of the causes of shocks when switching automatic transmissions.

Depending on the make/model of the car, the electronic unit can be independent or built into the “brains” of the engine.

To solve the problem, the ECU may need to be replaced.

Motor sensor

The cause of jerking when driving a car with an automatic transmission may be a malfunction of one of the control bodies, for example, or the mass air flow (MAF).

In such cases, the engine error may not light up. For example, on Ford Mondeo cars with a 6-speed automatic transmission, the problem may arise due to a breakdown that affects the change in torque.

Solenoids

Failure of these elements in the valve body often leads to jerking of the machine. In this case, the culprit is often the valve responsible for oil pressure.

Most often, it needs to be replaced to solve the problem. This situation is typical for automatic transmissions of the DP series (France).

Automatic transmission wiring harness

Wear or damage to this component causes many problems.

That is why during a major overhaul this unit is replaced first.

Mechatronics board

Some automatic transmissions have a separate unit that controls the solenoids. It is mounted in a tray, and if it breaks, it leads to many problems with the automatic transmission.

A similar component can be found in the Mercedes-Benz 722.9 with a seven-speed automatic transmission or in the six-speed “box” of the GM 6T30 and 6T40.

Hydraulic block

A decrease in oil pressure in the automatic transmission hydraulic system leads to jerking and may occur due to failure of the valve body.

The reason may be normal aging or bending of device elements due to overheating.

Problems with hardware

The worst thing is if the malfunction is caused by mechanical malfunctions of the transmission elements. In this case, disassembly and repair may be required.

For example, in Audi cars with a six-speed automatic transmission, the drum bushings often wear out.

As a result, oil is supplied to the friction pack, and due to lubricant leakage, slipping occurs, and the discs literally “burn”.

Other reasons:

Reduced oil level. It is enough to reduce the volume of lubricant by only 500 ml for twitching to appear.
Problems with automatic transmission and engine mounts. If there is excessive wear, the engine tilts, which causes jerking.
Overheat. The problem may arise when operating vehicles in hot weather when the radiators are dirty and the thermostat is faulty.

This list can be supplemented with a problem with the housing and wear of the band brake rod attachment point.

As a result, an oil leak appears and there is a decrease in pressure in the system, followed by a shock.

Mazda 6 owners faced a similar problem.

Automatic transmission Mazda 6

If difficulties arise in the operation of the automatic transmission, it is important not to delay repairs, but to immediately go to a service station for inspection.

If the cause of the car jerking in motion is mechanical problems, you will have to remove and disassemble the “box”.

But most often it does not come to this, and the issue can be resolved by restoring the electrical part.

Quick diagnostics

So, the car is started, the speed is turned on, the clutch is slowly released, and the engine speed gradually increases. But instead of smoothly starting from a stop and starting to pick up speed, the car begins to jerk - the speed fluctuates, the speed either increases or drops sharply, despite pressing the accelerator pedal.

This can continue until either the twitching goes away on its own and the car begins to confidently gain momentum, or until the engine stalls.

The same situation can be observed when reaching medium modes, that is, the engine reaches a certain speed level, after which twitching begins.

It happens that the car starts to jerk every time you change gears.

It is not necessary that uneven running occurs only under certain conditions.

It also happens that the car jerks spontaneously, without any frequency or conditions.

That is, the car can jerk just once, in any mode, and then move normally for quite a long time.

Or the car was working normally, but suddenly began to twitch sharply, and this trouble no longer goes away.

In general, there are a lot of options, but one fact remains - the car has an uneven ride, and it is advisable to eliminate it as quickly as possible before the problem gets worse.

The first thing to do is determine under what conditions the twitching occurs. The easiest way to do this is while moving.

You should drive onto a flat section of the road where there is no traffic and start testing.

At first, just get moving, then gradually increase the speed, remembering the behavior of the car and watching the dashboard.

And this must be done until the engine reaches high speeds.

Afterwards, you will need to run the test again to make sure that the conditions for the appearance of twitching are determined correctly. And only after that you can start looking for the reason.

When does this happen

Almost every car enthusiast who has logged more than tens of thousands of kilometers has encountered such a problem as uneven driving of the car, or, in popular parlance, the car simply jerks in some operating modes.

The car jerking can be as follows:

the beginning of the movement;
at low speeds;
with increasing speed;
at high speeds;
in all modes at once.

Moreover, it is worth noting that such a malfunction occurs not only on an old car; a new car is also capable of twitching.

It is impossible to say that the cause of uneven running is only a certain part of the car and that it is unique to a specific brand of car.

Based on reviews from car owners, we can conclude that this problem occurs with absolutely any vehicle - an old VAZ “Seven” or a new “Japanese”.

The appearance of uneven movement of the car not only irritates the driver, but can also cause an accident, because at the right moment the car, instead of accelerating, will begin to twitch.

Let's try to figure out in detail what can cause the car to jerk while moving. But to do this, you first need to understand how everything happens.

Engine lost power: common causes

Ignition problems. An ignition timing angle that is too early will mean that the fuel-air mixture is prematurely ignited. As a result, the expanding gases counteract the upward piston rather than pushing it down. Under such conditions, engine power will drop noticeably. The same is true for retarded ignition. Late combustion of the fuel-air mixture leads to the fact that the expanded gases “catch up” with the downward piston, useful energy is wasted. It turns out that in both the first and second cases, the driver intensively presses the gas pedal, fuel is consumed, but the full return from the engine does not occur. Also worth mentioning are problems associated with the vacuum and centrifugal ignition timing regulator. The fact is that malfunctions of these solutions affect the ignition timing and its change in relation to different operating conditions of the internal combustion engine. For example, when the speed increases, the regulator shifts the ignition angle. In other words, the degree of opening of the throttle valve and the increasing speed of the crankshaft at the same speed do not allow the engine to develop full power. On injection engines, a loss of power may be observed after flashing or chip tuning of the ECU in order to save fuel.
Cylinder-piston group and timing. As mentioned above, loss of engine power is caused by wear of the CPG, failures in timing settings, or accumulation of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. As for the gas distribution mechanism, improper valve adjustment, coke and carbon deposits can disrupt the normal operation of the valve mechanism. More precisely, the tightness of the combustion chamber is compromised due to the loose fit (adhesion) of the valves to the seats. The fit may be compromised if the valves are too tight. Engine coking also prevents the valve from closing normally. The fact is that the carbon layer prevents normal adhesion. As a result, some gases break through loosely closed valves, causing overheating, burnout of the valve, valve seats, etc. Coke deposits can additionally smolder under the influence of high temperature, causing the effect of uncontrolled ignition of the mixture, that is, glow ignition. All this leads to malfunctions and a decrease in the power of the power unit. As for the CPG, piston ring wear is a common cause of low cylinder compression. As a result, gases break through into the engine crankcase, that is, the energy of fuel combustion is again consumed with great losses. Determining the cause is not particularly difficult. It is enough to remove the crankcase ventilation hose and evaluate the degree of smoke intensity. The presence of strong smoke that pulsates will indicate problems with the rings.
Filling with fuel-air mixture and mixture composition. Problems with the filling and composition of the fuel charge can reduce engine power even if the engine is in good condition and the ignition is set correctly. The most common cause is a dirty throttle valve or a malfunction of the throttle opening mechanism itself. Let us add that running on a lean mixture will not allow the engine to develop full power. Leaning can be caused by air leaks that occur both at the intake and in the fuel system. Another reason is contamination of the jets on the carburetor or fuel injectors/fuel pump mesh/fuel lines of the injection internal combustion engine. The air intake also deserves special attention. The first step is to check the air filter. Then you should diagnose the fuel system. To begin with, it should be ruled out that the tank is filled with fuel with a low octane number for a particular type of engine. The next step is to check the injectors and their performance, as well as the fuel pump.

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Source

When starting off the car the viburnum twitches

Posted by USA » April 26, 2012, 00:47

Well, if you just open it up, it definitely won’t get any worse

Added after 1 minute 42 seconds:

folk method - experienced drivers also told me at one time

Messages: 29 Registered: March 03, 2011, 00:00 From: Nizhnevartovsk Experience: 3 years Car: VAZ 2110

Rating: 29

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Post by Sanek-86rus » April 26, 2012, 00:49

Messages: 9639 Registered: Jan 21, 2008, 00:00 Awards: 1

Rating: 55,315

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Posted by USA » April 26, 2012, 00:52

The discs won’t do anything for sure... well, if the releaser is too early to change, it costs 200 rubles separately for EMNIP. Well, or drive - it whistles - change it... maybe it will roll around. In general, the philosophy of Rashenkar is - don’t get into the car until the knock comes out on its own

Rating: 6,328

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Post by bluebird1992 » Apr 26, 2012 00:53

USA Try to release the gas, stick the third one in and move off... if you lightly burn the rims, it won’t twitch (it will get used to it). . on the classics it helps a lot - I’ve changed the clutch more than once, I’ve always done it that way

The car jerks while driving - reasons

As a rule, such jerks occur due to a malfunction of the ignition system. However, if a problem occurs on the road, you can try to fix the problem yourself. To do this we do the following:

Turn off the ignition, lift the hood and make sure that all high-voltage wires are securely attached to the coil and spark plugs.
Then start the engine and listen to the engine, listen for any extraneous crackling or clicking noises. The point is to check whether there are any “breakdowns to ground”, that is, whether the spark is going somewhere else other than the spark plug. This is best checked in the dark, then you will not only hear a crash, but also see how it hits, for example, on the body or somewhere else.

If the check does not lead to anything, I recommend unscrewing the spark plugs and inspecting them; perhaps there is carbon on the spark plugs or they simply need to be replaced. If you have a set of new spark plugs, check to see if the engine's performance changes or if the jerking goes away after replacing the spark plugs. If the car jerks at speed even after replacing the spark plugs have disappeared, then the problem was in them, but if not, continue searching or try to reach the nearest service center, they will certainly help you solve your problem.

Checking VAZ-2110

Let's move on to a more modern car - the injection VAZ-2110, which can also twitch when driving.

It’s also worth starting the check with the power system, but it is carried out somewhat differently than on the “Seven”:

Start with the fuel filter and pump. The filter there is non-separable and diagnostics are done by checking the performance of the pump. It is impossible to carry out the work at home; it is better to contact a service station. There, a special device is connected to the outlet of the fuel filter to measure the outlet pressure. If the pressure does not correspond to the norm, then another measurement is taken, but the device is connected to the fuel pump before entering the filter. This way it is determined whether the insufficient fuel supply is due to the filter or the pump;
Then the functionality of the injectors is checked. If everything is in order with the specified elements, then the check of the electronic component begins;
First, all sensors are checked for serviceability and functionality; if they are serviceable, then all that remains is to check the control unit;
The control unit can often cause jerking if its firmware is broken, that is, it does not operate in the mode it should.

Usually such a malfunction is “cured” by “reflashing”, but if there is internal damage in it, then it is replaced.

As for checking the ignition system, it is in many ways similar to checking the VAZ-2107 system.

It all starts with the spark plugs, then the wiring is checked, then all the components, but taking into account the fact that this system is controlled by an electronic unit that controls the operation of the engine using sensors.

So, when checking the ignition, you will also have to check the performance of the sensors and the unit itself.

Poor quality fuel

Poor fuel quality is often the cause of acceleration failures. One of the possible situations that can deteriorate the quality of fuel is the ingress of water into it. If there is water in the fuel, the engine will definitely not work normally. For information: if water gets into aviation fuel, the aircraft engine instantly fails.

Substandard fuel in this area is one of the main causes of accidents in aviation. On earth, this problem costs the car owner less blood. If a car owner has filled the tank with fuel and water, then this fuel must be drained. Otherwise, you will have to change the fuel pump and injectors. If there is no way to drain the fuel, you will have to wait until the fuel is used up.

Dips when pressing the gas pedal Lada Kalina: at idle or during acceleration

Drop in speed and failure of the gas pedal

There are few reasons for the phenomenon of “failure” when pressing the gas pedal. It often appears after unsuccessful engine chip tuning and is accompanied by an increase in fuel consumption, but there are other problems directly with injection. So, let’s look at the main reasons for the “failure” effect:

Injectors. The fuel distribution system directly affects engine performance.

Damage to the injector.
The fuel supply system has failed.
Wear of engine temperature and mixture enrichment sensors.
Errors in the electronic engine control unit.

Identifying and eliminating ECU errors

Spark plug. This is the most common cause of accelerator pedal failure.

Condition of the candles. On the left the mixture is too rich, on the right it is too lean.

These are all the main reasons that can lead to gas pedal failure.

Once the causes are considered, we can consider how to deal with the problem. So, let’s describe step by step what needs to be done when the gas pedal has dips during acceleration:

The first step is to check the spark plugs. The appearance of carbon deposits or spark plugs that are too clean indicate that the mixture is not adjusted correctly. It is worth adjusting the correct amount of fuel mixture.
Ignition wires can also cause the vehicle to malfunction.
A clogged throttle can lead to failures during acceleration.
The condition of the air filter affects the formation of the mixture, so it is worth changing it on time.

Air filter clogged

The fuel pump (main faults), as well as the condition of the fuel filter, can affect injection. Therefore, in case of failures, it is necessary to diagnose them. To diagnose, you need to remove the fuel pump and check its operation, as well as the condition of the mesh filter.

Dirty fuel filter

ECU errors can also lead to accelerator failures. The last reason is clogged injectors. They need to carry out diagnostics, check functionality, and also clean and replace faulty elements.

Thus, the causes of failures during overclocking have been identified and can be eliminated.

At idle, there are fewer reasons for failures, but they will have to be eliminated, since the car simply will not start normally, or stall after starting the engine. So, let's look at the work plan step by step:

Checking the spark plugs. If the element fails, it is necessary to replace it.

Attention! It is recommended to change all four spark plugs to ensure smooth engine operation. Before installation, you should adjust the gap using a feeler gauge, which should be 1 mm for 92 gasoline

Checking and adjusting the spark plug gap using a feeler gauge

We change the fuel filter, it is located under the bottom of the tank, and also carry out diagnostics on the fuel pump. If malfunctions are identified, they should be eliminated.

Clogged filter in the gasoline pump

We check the functionality of the idle speed sensor and cooling temperature. Fuel quality and clogged injectors also affect idle failures. Errors in the ECU can also cause this phenomenon. The performance of the injector directly affects the performance of the engine.

All these reasons can cause dips to appear at idle (more precisely, when switching from idle to driving mode).

The main cause of failures are spark plugs, but they are not the only ones that influence the appearance of this effect. Some car enthusiasts may not be able to cope with the occurrence of such malfunctions on their own, and it is necessary to go to a car service center, where they will carry out high-quality diagnostics and also fix the problem. But it is worth considering that you will have to be generous, since neither computer diagnostics nor repairs will cost a penny.

Other elements of the fuel system

Now on to other elements of the fuel system.

Fuel pump.

The next culprit for uneven running may be the fuel pump.

In carburetor cars.

A mechanically driven diaphragm fuel pump is often used here.

So, even a small rupture of the membrane will cause the pump’s performance to drop sharply.

The pump valves may also be to blame. They can easily break the sealing of the device’s chambers, which leads to a drop in fuel supply.

Injection car.

The fuel pump can also cause jerking. On such cars, since the pump is located in the tank, it is electrically driven.

A decrease in device performance leads to the problem described in this article. Here you need to consider a specific case separately.

Now directly about the carburetor.

Because of this, uneven running of the car is also possible. Often such a malfunction occurs due to severe clogging. Debris and dirt can block channels, clog jets, etc.

Sometimes the reason lies in the accelerator pump. A diaphragm accelerator pump is installed on carburetors, the task of which is to increase the fuel supply when the gas pedal is sharply pressed.

But if the membrane is torn, then the accelerator pump will not be able to increase the supply of gasoline, and hence fuel starvation.

Injectors.

For injectors, the fuel injectors are checked next. Violation of their performance leads to jerking of the car.

Injectors need to be cleaned periodically, in principle, like everything else.

Also, in an injection car, the functionality of all sensors involved in the operation of the power system is checked, and then the electronic control unit is checked.

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Comments 9

That's putting it mildly)))

The clutch basket is at fault. The hottest place is at the engine + gearbox connection. There are traffic jams, you have to constantly work with the clutch, the ferodo disk rubs against the basket at the moment of stopping and starting to move, not only the contact area and the petals heat up, there is simply an uneven pressure of the ferodo disk to the flywheel, so the car jumps when you start

If this happens during an active start from a standstill, then the strut slowly dies. At least that’s what I have, it was the front right pillar that was sentenced. If it just twitches when starting off (as if you were suddenly dropping the clutch), then you need to look at it. Maybe the damper itself is weird, maybe something else. I had both cases)) According to the first one, I will change the struts in any case, according to the second one, they reset the fuel adjustment, retrained it again, and the twitching disappeared. He described this in his blog.

So I’m also leaning towards the stand. When I slip, my right wheel jumps. I noticed it in the winter when I started to slip, following the tracks of a bulldozer in the snow. The right wheel was jumping like crazy(((Now I finally decided to change the struts.

I don’t know how it is with you. but on my first Kalina it was hard to get going in the back; the car was shaking as if the engine was going to fly out. and then one day the clutch cable broke, and after I changed it, the car stopped jerking, and the clutch began to be depressed like a gas pedal)) try to lubricate the clutch cable, check it when you take it off for biting,

Ignition and injection

During normal operation, the spark plug receives an electrical signal from the distributor or electronic injection system and sends a current pulse to the electrodes in a fraction of a second. Thus, the vapors in the combustion chamber are ignited. However, there are many reasons why a spark plug may stop sparking properly.

There are many methods for detecting and eliminating problems with spark plugs, but it is better to carry out diagnostics from specialists. A novice mechanic can do the following:

Check the wires going to the spark plugs. Sometimes rough running of the engine is caused by damaged, worn or misconnected spark plug wires.
Replace the suspect spark plug. Throughout its entire service life, it must retain its original appearance. If the spark plug is damaged, covered with oil or carbon deposits, you should contact a professional to further diagnose the causes of this condition.

Another factor why the spark plug does not generate a spark may be a malfunction of the ignition coil. This important component increases the vehicle voltage to 30,000 volts, which is the main condition for the formation of a spark. Coil defects cause misfires, which manifest themselves as jerking of the car.

Another common problem in the ignition system is contamination of the injector nozzles. This is not a very serious defect, but it also needs to be eliminated. It is advisable to clean the injectors on a regular basis to avoid costly replacements.

Checking VAZ-2107 carburetor

Now let's take a closer look at how to identify the cause of such a malfunction on different car models.

The first will be the carburetor VAZ-2107; there are plenty of cases when the car suddenly starts to jerk while driving.

As already mentioned, you need to start checking with the fuel system:

First you need to inspect all pipes of the system for cracks;
Open the tank. It happens that in the summer the lid fits very tightly to the neck, blocking the access of air to the tank. When moving, the pump works and creates a vacuum in the tank, due to which the same pump is then unable to “pull” fuel. It seems like a small thing, but this also happens;
Inspect the fuel filter located in the pipes leading to the fuel pump. These filters are transparent and easy to visually evaluate;
You can also check the fuel pump without removing it. It is necessary to disconnect the pipeline coming from the pump from the carburetor and lower its end into some container. Then manually pump the pump into action and evaluate how it pumps fuel - it should supply it in even portions;
While the fuel pipe is disconnected from the carburetor, unscrew the fitting on which the fuel line fits and remove the small mesh filter, clean it and reinstall it;
Next comes the carburetor. It is advisable to remove it from the car, rinse it thoroughly, and inspect the accelerator pump membrane.

If actions with the fuel system did not help, we proceed to checking the ignition system.

We unscrew the spark plugs, check their functionality, and replace them if necessary;
We check the system wiring for breakdown. This can be done this way - in the dark or in a closed garage (the main thing is that it is dark), open the hood and start the engine. If there are voltage losses on the wiring, they will be immediately noticeable by the sparks that form. Next, we replace the wiring that “breaks through” and check the wire connections;

Next, we check the distributor, there should be no signs of critical wear, it should be dry under the cover. Be sure to inspect the centrifugal regulator, and also check the vacuum regulator. You should check whether there is a vacuum in the pipe leading to it.
Then the Hall sensor, coil and switch will be checked for functionality. You can do this yourself if you have the necessary equipment at hand, but you need to know how to check them. But you can contact an auto electrician.
It is also important not to forget to check that the ignition is installed correctly.

This is in general and all the features of identifying the cause of uneven running on the VAZ-2107.

Jerks at low speeds and when starting off Lada Kalina

Many car enthusiasts have come across the concept of Lada Kalina twitching at low speeds. This malfunction can be associated with different car systems, but not every car owner is able to find this malfunction and fix it.

The video shows an example when an 8-valve engine operates “jerkily”, and what to do about it:

Causes of malfunction

General view of the engine

As in any car, in the Lada Kalina, jerking at low speeds is the first sign of a malfunction in one of the systems. Let's look at where the main problems arise:

The fuel system and its components can cause the problem.
The ignition system is associated with the fact that the car jerks at low speeds.
Another reason could be the gearbox.

To more accurately determine the causes of the malfunction, it is worth considering each system and component separately.

Fuel system

The car jerks at low speeds - this may be due to the fact that the engine does not receive enough fuel mixture.

The problem may lie in the fuel system. In this case, you will have to examine several elements that are part of it.

Fuel rail and fuel injectors

Let's look at finding the problem step by step:

The first place to look for a problem is the fuel rail and injectors. It is the poor condition of this unit that can cause the car to jerk when accelerating.
The fuel pump, filter and lines can cause the driver to feel slight jolts at low speeds. For diagnostics, you will need to remove the fuel pump from the gas tank housing. The mesh (strainer) in the fuel pump on a Lada Kalina is clogged
Poor fuel quality is one of the reasons for this effect.

You can diagnose these components and parts yourself or contact a car service center.

Ignition

The ignition system may cause the car to jerk at low speeds

Particular attention should be paid to the ignition switch, in which the contact connections may fail

A red glow plug removed from the engine

The second reason could be the spark plugs. Their serviceability and contamination can lead to the fact that the car will not only twitch at low speeds, but also work unstably in other ranges. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to choose spark plugs with the required gap and recommended by the manufacturer.

Transmission

The most unpleasant consequence of the effect may be the gearbox. In this case, you will have to remove the gearbox, change the oil in it and add new oil to the level. And also carry out a complete disassembly of it for diagnostics. Thus, the reasons may be failed synchronizers of 1st and 2nd gears, wear of gears or shafts. Another problem can be bearings that are worn out.

Gearbox disassembled

Of course, you should trust the diagnosis of this unit to professionals at a car service center, but if possible, you can try to fix the malfunction on your own. Ultimately, when all else fails, they will always be happy to see you at the car service center.

So, finding the reason for the Lada Kalina jerking at low speeds is quite difficult, because the problem may lie in the main systems, therefore, if the car enthusiast is not confident that he can find and fix the problem, then it is better to immediately contact a car service center.

Conclusion

There are no jerks during acceleration. The dynamics also disappeared, then it appears when there is little gasoline left in the tank, about 5 liters. Then you fill in a new one. You drive a little, the dynamics decrease again. I always fill up at one gas station, mostly.

VAZ Kalina stalls 2-4 seconds after starting – 6 answers
Kalina takes a long time to start - 3 answers
Lada Kalina twitches – 3 answers
Kalina stalls in wet weather - 3 answers
Why does Kalina stall when driving? – 2 answers

Looks like a faulty canister valve. But maybe something else. Is the check light on? diagnostics need to be done.

Without voltage - the valve is closed. When 12 volts are supplied, the valve is open.

I tried to attach a video of checking the valve, but it won’t attach, I don’t know why (before I was always able to attach videos).

“A method for determining the malfunction of the adsorber in VAZ cars. After the engine warms up above a temperature of 60 °C, a significant drop in engine speed at idle begins. In addition, your car may suddenly stall while driving for no specific reason.”

Here is a link to a video on checking the valve

Air leak in the vacuum brake booster

Newer car models are equipped with sealed vacuum brakes. If this integrity is violated, air will leak into the system. It mixes with the fuel mixture, making it leaner. As a result, the mixture does not ignite well when it enters the cylinder. The spark plug becomes wet, a spark does not form and the fuel does not ignite.

This can provoke a slight adjustment of the engine, which will be noticeable in cold and hot conditions, even at idle speed. To make sure that the cause of the malfunction is air leaks, it is necessary to determine where exactly the depressurization occurred in the system.

Checking Ford Focus

The last car will be the Ford Focus 3 injector, which is not surprising, but it can also twitch when driving.

Note that the sequence of checking the ignition and power systems on this car has the same algorithm as on the VAZ-2110. But let’s assume that our car is equipped with an automatic transmission, and no problems were found in the engine systems.

As for checking the automatic transmission, you can only check the oil level yourself, but you need to know how to do it correctly.

A more in-depth check can only be done on the service. There, using special stands, they will first check the performance of the engine, and then diagnose the operation of the automatic transmission.