How to eliminate a dip when the car starts moving smoothly?

Hi all. I encountered the following problem - on Friday evening I was driving along as if nothing had happened, and then right on the move the car simply stalled, BUT the ignition remained on (the music continued to play, the dimensions also turned off). I stopped, turned the ignition off and on, started the car and drove on. Today I encountered the same problem again, it just stalled while driving, the ignition remained on. What should I do? What could be the problem? How to fix it?

And if this can be somehow connected, then I’ll write this: before, the speed often fluctuated when you were driving and put it in neutral and started braking, then the needle started jumping until you stopped. When you stand, it also jumps a little, you can hear a vibration in the body, in general the engine is somehow not running smoothly. This used to happen often, now it happens less often, but it also happens. I changed the IAC - it didn't help. The diagnostics didn't say anything meaningful. I'm thinking of trying to clean the throttle assembly and I'll have to check the mass air flow sensor somehow.

In this article we will talk about such an unpleasant problem as engine stopping and poor starting. Let's look at the main reasons why the engine stalls at idle and while driving. In addition, we will talk about why the engine does not start when hot, as well as options for solving each of the problems described above.

A little about the reasons

The Lada Priora stalls while driving when releasing gas: the causes of this malfunction most often are a violation of the composition of the fuel mixture entering the car’s engine.

Having analyzed the methods of car owners of this car model to eliminate this malfunction, we can conclude that such a violation may be caused by improper operation of both the throttle system and some sensors and regulators. A complete diagnosis of the car at a car service center will help to identify the specific reason for the “floating” idle speed, although sometimes it is possible to find the source of the engine’s malfunction on your own. To do this, you need to sequentially disconnect or replace the following sensors and regulators with ones that are known to work correctly, removed from another vehicle.

So, let's figure out what to do first in case of such a malfunction.

Malfunctions in the air mixture supply system

Here the problem lies either in a clogged air filter or in the failure of the regulator responsible for idling the car. In this case, your car will stall all the time when you gain speed or when you release the gas when you release the accelerator.

To solve the problem, remove and inspect the air filter. If there is serious contamination or chips, replace it. To diagnose and replace the idle speed regulator, you will need the help of qualified car service employees.

Why does Lada Priora stall while driving when releasing gas?

With such a malfunction of the system, the following indications of its operation change: air and fuel consumption increases, its injection time changes, the idle speed control step increases to 75 units, the voltage at the terminals of electrical appliances changes.

A little about the reasons

The Lada Priora stalls while driving when releasing gas: the causes of this malfunction most often are a violation of the composition of the fuel mixture entering the car’s engine.

Having analyzed the methods of car owners of this car model to eliminate this malfunction, we can conclude that such a violation may be caused by improper operation of both the throttle system and some sensors and regulators. A complete diagnosis of the car at a car service center will help to identify the specific reason for the “floating” idle speed, although sometimes it is possible to find the source of the engine’s malfunction on your own. To do this, you need to sequentially disconnect or replace the following sensors and regulators with ones that are known to work correctly, removed from another vehicle.

So, let's figure out what to do first in case of such a malfunction.

Checking the operation of the throttle valve

Very often, the cause of idle “floating” is a malfunction of the throttle position sensor (TPS). The graphite track inside a standardly installed part wears out over time, so it is replaced with a sensor with a non-contact system. After replacement, you need to reset the sensor error. To do this, disconnect the terminals from the battery for 30 seconds or more.

It is also necessary to check the cleanliness and integrity of the pipe leading from the air filter to the throttle valve, and adjust the tension of the gas pedal cable going to it.

It is also possible that the gasket of the throttle assembly has become unusable or the assembly itself needs to be thoroughly cleaned (motor oil could have gotten into it) with special compounds for washing carburetors.

Changing the idle air control

Car service specialists admit that sometimes they have to spend a long time selecting a correctly working (despite the fact that it is new) idle air regulator to stabilize the idle speed of the engine. It is in this case that, before handing over your car for service, you should use an IAC regulator removed (temporarily) from a working car of the same brand.

It is advisable to replace the idle air regulator itself in conjunction with cleaning the vehicle's throttle system.

Replacing the mass air flow sensor

Determining the performance of this sensor (mass air flow sensor) is quite simple. You need to measure the voltage at its terminals with a multimeter with the engine off. It should be less than 1 volt. If it exceeds this value, then this sensor requires replacement.

Other reasons

In addition to the above malfunctions, Priora car owners resort to the following types of repairs to their car aimed at eliminating idle “floating”:

• replacing the knock sensor (DS) or crankshaft sensor;
• cleaning the speed sensor (DS), fuel grid or fuel filter;
• checking the integrity of the wires suitable for the sensors and the cleanliness of their terminals;
• adjusting fuel pressure or the operation of the vehicle's air intake system;
• increasing the power of the electric generator by adding another diode to its circuit;
• change the voltage regulator;
• adjust the correct operation of the absorber valve;
• check the carbon dioxide content in the fuel mixture and the correct functioning of the oxygen sensor (lambda), or turn it off programmatically;
• Reset the vehicle's electronic control unit (ECU). To do this, the battery is disconnected for a while, and then, after connecting it, the electronic system is “self-learning”;
• perform flashing of the car's electronic system.

In general, such a situation can arise even due to poor quality of the fuel being poured. In addition to changing the gas station, the fuel system may need to be cleaned.

The situation when the Lada Priora stalls while driving when releasing the gas can arise either for one of the above reasons or for a combination of them. Therefore, before purchasing new parts (to avoid unnecessary costs), it is recommended to diagnose the operation of the vehicle system at a car service center.

There is a special offer on our website. You can get a free consultation with our corporate lawyer by simply submitting your question in the form below.

The speed drops after releasing the gas on a VAZ 2114: what's the matter?

Compared to the previous carburetor generation, the new injection VAZ 2114 turned out to be much more efficient and reliable, but from time to time they are plagued by various problems. A situation such as a drop in speed after releasing the gas on a VAZ 2114 is almost always caused by problems with the injection system, but other causes must be excluded during the diagnostic process.

How to find the cause of the problem

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If the speed of the VAZ 2114 drops, you need to comprehensively diagnose the functioning of the injection system on your car, which can be done in your garage if you have a little experience and appropriate instructions.

In this case, those “fourteeners” that were equipped from the factory with a dashboard from the German manufacturer VDO have an important advantage, since it, in comparison with the analogue from Schetmash, is equipped with a self-diagnosis mode.

VDO dashboard for VAZ 2114

To carry out this procedure, you will need to perform a few simple steps:

• After turning off the engine, you need to keep the odometer button pressed for three to five seconds;
• Having turned the engine ignition to the first position, the button must be released;
• arrows should appear on the display, which is a signal of normal operation, then the button must be pressed the first time (displaying the firmware version) and the second time - after this probable errors in the ECU will be shown;
• To reset the error message, you will need to hold the button until a zero appears on the display.

After reading the manual, you can find out what errors shown on the screen may be associated with the fact that the speed constantly drops when the gas is released on the VAZ 2114.

So, it could be one of the following situations:

• code 1 – controller error;
• code 14/15 – coolant sensor error;
• code 22/23 – throttle position sensor error;
• code 33/34 – mass air flow sensor error;
• code 42 – faulty ignition;
• code 44 – fuel mixture is lean or too rich.

The owner of a VAZ 2114 should remember a specific feature of the self-diagnosis mode on his car: if there are several errors, the computer sums their codes arithmetically, which can be misleading. This can be indicated by a logical discrepancy between the displayed code and the actual problems.

To be completely sure, you will either need to take the car to a service center and pay for its inspection, or buy a diagnostic scanner yourself, which is not that expensive. Another option is if you have the same VAZ model (fully operational), one by one, remove it from it and install potentially vulnerable sensors on your car, using the method of elimination to find the problem.

Finding a breakdown without using the on-board controller

External “symptoms” of the behavior of a car and, in particular, its engine can also give a lot of food for thought to an experienced and observant driver. By analyzing these factors, you can significantly reduce the list of probable causes of the problem.

• For example, it is necessary to track the moment the engine randomly turns off - at idle, during a “cold” start, after the engine has warmed up to a specific temperature, or when the gas pedal is sharply pressed.
• In addition, you should pay attention to whether the speed drops with constant throttle application, and how the engine behaves when braking, releasing the gas pedal and turning off the gear?
• Along with visual and auditory diagnostics, it would be useful to check in a circle potentially vulnerable components that could lead to the VAZ 2114 stalling when releasing the gas.
• Firstly, you should start by checking the fuel and air filters - it is recommended to change them every 30 thousand kilometers, but in fact, operating conditions and the quality of the filters lead to the fact that in order to avoid problems it is better to halve this period (especially since in cars with With longer mileage, filters become clogged even faster).

Replacing the fuel filter VAZ 2114

In addition, you definitely need to check the fuel level in the tank, no matter how funny it may sound: the fuel level sensor often deceives the driver, and in addition, the car may simply be parked on a slope, which is why the fuel pump simply does not supply fuel to the engine - hence reason for the drop in speed.

A very common situation is the appearance of problems with ignition or maintaining speed after minor independent repairs: in this case, you need to check all the chips, contacts, terminals and wiring again to eliminate the usual human factor.

RPM drop in neutral gear

If the speed of a VAZ 2114 drops and the engine stalls when cold, there are not so many probable causes of the problem: a faulty fuel pump, a breakdown of the idle air control, a clogged injector or a malfunction of the coolant temperature sensor.

The main ways to solve encountered situations are as follows:

1. If the reason is in the idle speed control, then the engine will constantly stall in this mode, and not just stall. To diagnose the IAC, you will need a multimeter, which measures the resistance with the engine turned off: at terminals A – B, C – D it should be approximately 54 Ohms, while between the pairs it will be equal to infinity. Any deviation from these indicators should be considered a malfunction.

1. A dirty injector is a very common situation, considering how low-quality gasoline is sold at most gas stations: sometimes using a special injector cleaning agent can help. It’s worse when the injectors are clogged - if the cleaning products don’t help, you’ll have to change them or take them to a service center for cleaning.
2. Failure of a fuel pump is usually preceded by characteristic signs of disturbances in its functioning: an attentive driver will hear a difference in the sound of the pump when starting the engine long before the breakdown. If the problem with the engine stalling does not occur when driving in gear, but occurs at idle, you can first check the fine filter.

1. Sometimes spark plugs can fail, which directly affects the operation of the entire ignition system, but regularly replacing them for preventive purposes prevents the problem from occurring in advance. Additionally, it is recommended to check the condition of the ignition coil.

Difference between new and old candle

Sensor malfunction

The normal functioning of the injection engine on the VAZ 2114 is ensured by the correct operation of four key sensors: throttle position, mass air flow, crankshaft position and coolant temperature.

Throttle position sensor VAZ 2114

The first of them - TPS - is responsible for the amount of gasoline supplied to the engine from the gas tank, and in some cases it can become clogged to the extent that the performance of its moving parts deteriorates. This breakdown is characterized by the engine stalling when changing gears - both when the gas is released and when the engine speed is reduced, if the damper does not open or close in time.

A faulty mass air flow sensor is more likely to lead to sharp drops in power and increased gas mileage, rather than to a stalled engine if it transmits incorrect incoming air readings to the ECU. This, in turn, leads to a leaner mixture supplied to the cylinders, which sometimes causes a drop in speed.

Mass air flow sensor VAZ 2114

As for the DTOZH, when it fails, usually the car stalls already on a warm engine due to distorted information from the sensor, while a faulty DPKV is a very rare situation in which the fuel injection phases are disrupted and the engine begins to throttle severely.

Source: https://VAZremont.com/padayut-oboroty-posle-sbrosa-gaza-na-vaz-2114

A hot engine stalls while driving or idling

Let's start with the fact that the symptoms and signs of this problem can manifest themselves in different ways. Quite often, the power unit may stall in idle mode, and unstable operation and complete stop of the internal combustion engine often occurs after the engine has warmed up.

First of all, diagnostics should begin with checking the spark plugs and their condition. At the same time, high-voltage armored wires should also be checked. This must be done because there may be weak sparking or no spark at all on the spark plug electrodes. Interruptions in the spark lead to serious malfunctions in the operation of the engine, as a result of which both the cold unit and the engine stalls after warming up. Replacing spark plugs and high-voltage wires often helps solve the problem.

Another common situation is when the engine stalls hot or cold immediately after starting it. In this case, on many modern cars with an injection power system, you should check the idle speed sensor. The failure of this element of the electronic engine control system often leads to the fact that the engine is simply unable to operate at idle speed.

In some cases, cleaning the XX regulator helps, in others the device should be replaced. On cars with a carburetor, the idle jets may become clogged and other carburetor malfunctions may occur. Injection engines also require additional checking of the synchronization sensor (DSPS), and possible problems with the fuel pump should not be ruled out. One way or another, if the engine stalls when hot or this constantly happens with a cold unit, then in-depth diagnostics will be required.

On carburetor cars with a mechanical ignition distributor, a situation arises when the slider stops performing its functions. Quite often, after the engine has warmed up, the central wire on the ignition coil may come off, problems with the ignition unit capacitor, etc. may occur. A known problem with cars with a mechanical fuel pump is that the engine stalls in hot weather. This occurs due to overheating, since the high temperature outside and significant heating of the engine compartment do not allow the pump to cool properly.

At the same time, attention should be paid to the condition of the fuel filters. If the filter element becomes clogged, then as the load increases and the speed increases, the required amount of fuel does not flow into the engine through the dirty filter and the engine stalls.

We add that usually before a significant decrease in the filter capacity and a complete stop of the motor, the malfunction progresses. At first, the car may not pick up speed, starts poorly, dips appear when you press the gas pedal, the engine is unstable or jerks when you press the accelerator, in transition modes, etc.

Modern cars with an injector have an electronic control unit (ECU). This unit is quite rare, but still fails. In this case, the engine may stall while driving, and the problem itself manifests itself in various situations, including after the internal combustion engine has warmed up. In this case, as well as if it is necessary to check individual ECM sensors, it is necessary to carry out computer diagnostics of the vehicle. The system will display existing errors in the form of codes, after decoding which it is possible to localize the fault. If the problem is “floating”, that is, it occurs periodically, then it is recommended to purchase a compact device that allows you to read information about engine operation via the OBD connector. Thanks to the subsequent display of data on the screen of a smartphone, tablet or laptop with a pre-installed program, this solution will allow you to record failures in real time.

Priora does not maintain idle speed and stalls

Often a Priora car may have this type of malfunction when the car stalls while driving. Previously, it was believed that this problem mainly affected domestically produced cars, but it turns out that many foreign cars “suffer” from the same problem.

But, let's talk about the Priora car, the malfunction can manifest itself like this: the car starts up, it accelerates well, but when you remove the gas pedal, the revolutions begin to fluctuate, the engine rattles, that is, its speed level changes all the time, although the tachometer arrow should point to 1000 revolutions. After a while the car stalls. If you start it, everything will repeat itself. What to do in this case? Let's try to break down the main points so we can easily fix the problem.

If the Priora stalls while driving, there may be the following reasons:

— the first is the idle speed sensor. It should keep the car idling while starting the engine. If the Priora stalls at idle or the car does not start (the starter turns the engine), you can easily check what is causing this: if the car does not start, then you need to lightly press the gas pedal, in which case the car should start.

But if you take your foot off the gas pedal, the revs begin to fluctuate, and then the car stalls. This is typical for idle speed sensors (IAC). It should be changed. This is quite easy to do on Priora. Experts note this cause of failure as the most likely.

— the reason that the Priora stalls while driving may also be that the throttle valve in the car is clogged. In this case, the idle speed of the engine will float and the car may stall. With this type of malfunction, it is enough to clean the throttle valve.

— if the Priora stalls while driving, there is a possibility that the throttle position sensor (TPS) has become unusable. It should be replaced only after cleaning the throttle valve itself. This is located next to the XX sensor. It changes very quickly.

Here are the main reasons why the Priora stalls at idle. In this case, experts recommend changing two sensors at once: throttle position and idle speed. But this should be done only after you have cleaned the damper itself.

If it stalls while driving, what is it?

First of all, when the Priora suddenly stalls when the engine is running, check whether you have left the clutch pedal - perhaps you were accidentally distracted by something and did not notice how you removed your foot. But usually the car stalls when the gas pedal is released while driving. Symptoms of the problem are as follows:

• increased fuel consumption, air consumption;
• injection takes longer (the engine operating cycle is extended in time);
• The idle speed control operates with a delay;
• The voltage in the power supply fluctuates.

The reasons why the Priora stalled while driving could be:

1. low-quality gasoline;
2. sensor error (incorrect readings when releasing gas), most often the idle air control sensor;
3. throttle valve error.

Why do newbies' cars stall?

A car can stall even if an experienced driver is driving, let alone a novice. Getting started is one of the most difficult tasks in driving. When starting to move, maximum forces are applied to the vehicle's controls, and not everyone can operate the clutch and gas correctly.

The car stalls

To learn how to get going, don’t get hung up on unsuccessful previous attempts. Consider mistakes made in the past and strive to correct them. If you have difficulties at the start, you should not react to signals and angry looks from other drivers - abstract yourself and focus on driving the car.

Lada Priora starts and stalls after a few seconds: reasons, what to do?

Winter is the most difficult time for drivers. It is in the cold that many people face a huge number of problems. One of them is a situation when the Priora either does not start, or starts and stalls.

What do you need to do to get your car to start?

Engine operation

In order for you to be able to start the engine, you need a spark that ignites the fuel-air mixture that is in the cylinder. If your engine does not start, it means there is some kind of malfunction or breakdown in it.

What could it be?

Causes

Your car may not start right away or may stall immediately when one or more parts of the system are faulty.

Now let's look at the reasons why the Priora does not start at all. So:

• Check the electrical connections of the ignition coil. They may be weakened or damaged. Replace if necessary;
• It's also worth taking a look at the fuel rail. There may be insufficient pressure;
• there may be problems with the intake tract. Check the catalytic manifold and intake manifold. The connections of these parts may be leaky;
• Perform engine diagnostics. It may be broken;
• oil can freeze in the cold;
• The battery may be low. This can be understood by the rotation of the crankshaft;
• an equally significant reason may be frozen water in the ramp, in which case your fuel system is faulty;
• in the cylinders - low pressure;
• It’s also worth checking the fuel injectors, they should be sealed;
• Possible injector malfunction.

Your favorite car, Lada Priora, may have difficulty starting during frosts, that is, it will start and immediately stall.

There are also a number of reasons that cause this problem:

• large accumulation of water in gasoline. Check this and better change the fuel;
• examine the entire ignition system - from the module to the high-voltage wires;
• look at the oxygen sensor;
• Another common cause is a malfunction of the immobilizer and alarm system. Many people advise solving this problem by reflashing the engine control unit.

Equally important is the constant maintenance of your car.

It may be that the starter turns, but your Priora does not start. What can be done about this?

Causes of management problems

The Priora most often does not start because the battery drains quickly or is completely discharged. In this case, the amount of charge is not enough to operate the engine.

Diagnosis of the starter is easy

To understand what condition it is in, you need to pay attention to the sound coming from under the hood. A cracking sound will indicate a discharged battery.

Charge the battery. Any parts of the car may be subject to corrosion, which will subsequently weaken the contact between them.

Humid air also affects parts, and if your Priora has a full gas tank and the battery is charged, pay attention to the following:

• starter;
• battery terminals;
• connections between the wires of the circuit;
• presence of condensation.

In case of corrosion, clean or replace the oxidized element. The terminals also need to be coated with special technical Vaseline.

For the system to work, pay attention to the position and contacts between the wires. If at least one is disconnected, connect according to a special diagram

Use a tester to check the condition of the coil. Check the fuel pump relay and fuse. It may be damaged and interfere with the fuel supply.

If the Priora does not start well when hot

In this case, see the second table; in addition to the reasons described, also pay attention to:

1. A pressure regulator that can discharge fuel through a membrane into the receiver.
2. DPKV contacts, if the sensor has been changed, check that the poles are connected correctly.
3. Faulty ignition module.

Let us remind you that in some cases the Priora does not start due to a faulty immobilizer or alarm system. In some cases, reflashing the engine ECU (electronic control unit) helps solve the problem of poor starting. And regular car maintenance will help eliminate problems of poor engine starting.

Lada Priora Sedan › Logbook › Stalls at idle.

Hi all! Maybe someone has encountered this problem or can give me some advice...

With the onset of heat (for some reason I associated this with this, although the same problem can happen in traffic jams in the rain or at night), the Priora begins to stall at idle. Moreover, the reasons are not tracked in any way... the car stands calmly at a traffic light, for example, thrashes at xx, without any jerks or floats, and drives calmly without problems, but sometimes when driving calmly along the highway you stop, say on the side of the road, and it instantly stalls! Not to mention the traffic jams...you have to constantly step on the gas...

According to observations... before it stalls, for example in a traffic jam, the revs begin to fluctuate and twitching is felt at idle, the car stalls instantly in neutral and in gear with the clutch depressed. A repeated attempt to start leads to the fact that the engine starts (sometimes with a bang!), the speed rises as expected after the start, and then immediately drops to zero... if you accelerate at the same time, it does not stall. On the highway, it goes at speed without problems, the dynamics are good, it doesn’t stall at all...

If you listen, after it stalls, the pump seems to be pumping with difficulty, reluctantly, and the distinct loud cracking sound from under the hood is very confusing when you start accelerating at the very last moment, right before idling, at the very moment when it is about to stall...

What has already been done: the fuel pump, the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel filter, even the float with sensor and wires have been replaced, the mass under the rear seat has been tightened, the IAC has been replaced with a new one - the problem has not gone away...

I really hope for your help... don’t remain indifferent, maybe after the next traffic light or traffic jam your car will be in front of me!:D)))))

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Priorik stalled while driving - logbook of Lada Priora Sedan Zelenka (Banditka2) 2008 on DRIVE2

The Priora stalled while driving, I was already expecting the worst, that the timing belt broke and the valves bent. But no, I open the hood, and everything is fine there. there is surprise and bewilderment on my face, what’s wrong with her? The car won’t start, even the starter doesn’t turn, when you try to directly close the starter, it turns, but the car still won’t start.(((They hook me onto a cable and tow me home, on the way I try to push start it and it starts and immediately stalls. First we actually replaced the bad connector on the crankshaft position sensor, and the sensor itself - no changes whatsoever(((

crankshaft position sensor

After spending half the night sorting through various options for the causes of the breakdown, we decided to turn to the Internet)))

There was no limit to anger when they found out that the problem was just one fuse responsible for the main relay circuit and the starter blocking.

It was this little thing that caused the whole problem.

Issue price: 380 ₽

The right start

It depends on various factors:

• condition of the road surface;
• driver experience;
• type of gearbox;
• rubber used;
• road slope, etc.

In most cases, a novice's manual car stalls due to:

• lack of the required amount of practice;
• and stress caused by uncertainty in one’s actions.

An experienced driver may also feel uncomfortable driving someone else's car. But, having control experience and starting skills, he will try to start moving until he manages to do it.

Other reasons why the engine stalls when hot

In addition to the above material, I would like to note a number of malfunctions that lead to a sudden stop of a hot engine while driving. The unit may stall while driving if the timing belt or chain is broken. This situation means that in most cases the power unit will require expensive repairs, since as a result of a break the valves are bent, piston defects and other damage to engine elements occur.

If the engine stalls while driving through deep puddles or other water obstacles, then there is a high probability of water getting into the cylinders or the elements of the ignition system getting wet. In the first case, water enters the combustion chambers through the air intake. Since water is incompressible, the engine is severely damaged, connecting rods bend, cracks appear in the cylinder block, etc. After a water hammer, there is usually a need to overhaul the engine. In the second case, the problem is not critical, since after removing the moisture, the functionality of the ignition system and power unit can often be restored.

Also, a car may stall when hot if there is too little fuel in the fuel tank. Quite often the engine stops when driving uphill. The fact is that during a long climb, the car is in a position for a long time when the fuel tank is tilted and the fuel level is not enough to supply through the fuel intake. It is quite obvious that in this case the engine will stall.

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Lada Priora Hatchback › Logbook › Starts up and immediately stalls

I'm changing the IAC, it doesn't help, I'm going to the diagnostics on a hot one, of course there's nothing there, it doesn't show anything, everything seems to be fine. Well, great, I think I’m going to another diagnostic, and it also says everything is fine, but I need to look at it cold. I drag the car to him on a cable and he tells me that at the moment of tripling it begins to misfire in all cylinders in turn, I need an IAC sensor, I don’t have enough air for her, I change it, there are no changes, he says let’s flash it, maybe with the program we’ll flash something all the same. I am changing the fuel pump because this one gave 3.5 pressure, the new one gives 4+ pressure and still no changes, I tried installing all the coils and sensors from another working machine and still no changes.

Hurray I did it! When it was left to try to replace the only camshaft sensor, then I started removing the intake to change it, otherwise I wouldn’t be able to get to it. I installed a new sensor and put everything back together, but it got worse. I started disassembling all this garbage again, installed the old sensor and noticed that the rubber bands on the intake manifold were completely dry. I went to the store and bought rubber bands for 80 rubles. I assembled everything and the car froze. Well, I think I’ll try it in the morning when it’s cold, I go out in the morning and here it’s -28, I sat down and the car started and didn’t stall for three days, everything’s been okay. The result of this event is almost 7,000 rubles, which were spent on sensors, diagnostics, and a fuel pump.

Priora stalls while driving

The sensors are potentiometers, the moving contact of which is rigidly connected to the rotary axis of the pedal lever. The ECU electronic control unit continuously monitors the pedal position based on sensor signals.

Based on these parameters, the ECU sends control commands to the throttle gearbox and to the fuel injectors. If the engine stalls at idle speed of the Priora, such a nuisance, you need to look for which unit is to blame analytically; the engine stalls at idle speed of the Priora, all the indicated sensors. First, let's consider the following option for correcting the problem situation.

Let's assume that the VAZ has high revs. Inspection of the suspected components for faulty components showed that the throttle position sensor has traces of rust. It is located directly above the throttle valve. Measurements with a voltmeter showed that when the engine is idling, the voltage on it remains high, which means it does not close the damper.

How to fix the problem? For this we only need a screwdriver. Let's begin the procedure.

Priora stalls while driving

As a rule, the true cause of the breakdown is sufficiently identified. And even a car owner who does not have deep knowledge in vehicle repairs and the engine stalls at idle speed of the Priora can easily correct the problems that have arisen, accompanied by the incorrect behavior of their car.

This breakdown occurs as a result of 3 reasons:. However, the most popular is still black carbon deposits on the spark plugs, which prevents the spark from appearing or causes it to work periodically.

The cause of a stalled engine is the spark plugs

In 50% of cases, the problem is due to the fact that the spark plugs simply do not produce a spark. This failure occurs as a result of 3 reasons:

• contacts become clogged;
• plaque forms along the entire contour of the candle;
• malfunction when supplying voltage to the spark plug.

However, the most popular is still black carbon deposits on the spark plugs, which prevents the spark from appearing or causes it to work periodically.

Tip: if the spark plug set malfunctions, you will hear a “triple” sound that is uncharacteristic of the engine. In this case, the car will jerk strongly while moving. As a result, the engine will either stall on its own, or you will need to turn it off and turn the ignition on again.

If you see dirt on the surface of the contacts, this indicates the need to replace a low-quality type of fuel or check the serviceability of the oil supply systems. It is the oil supply adjustment sensors that can splash the spark plugs with it if there is a problem. Also, oil that appears on a set of spark plugs may indicate serious damage to components in the engine cylinders. Be sure to check the engine at a car service center. Otherwise, further operation may lead to expensive replacement of jet rods and even the entire set of pistons.

If you systematically use low-quality gasoline samples, you may find a red-brown coating on the contour of the spark plug. In this case, cleaning will not help - it is better to immediately replace the entire set after a new refill. If you find that the car periodically turns off at full speed, but starts easily even with clean spark plugs, then the problem lies in the electrical wiring.

Fuel supply faults

It is quite easy to find out that the car stalls while driving due to the engine being “choked” with the fuel mixture - during a long drive you will find that the signal of the sensor responsible for this function is constantly on.

Here the problem lies in low-quality fuel, which does not quickly “ignite” from the spark of the candles. It can also be caused by gasoline not meeting the requirements for the octane number specified in the vehicle specifications. If there are problems with fuel, the gas pedal will be pressed all the way, and the car will not begin to gain speed. In addition, the car will periodically stall when the clutch is engaged.

Another symptom indicating problems with fuel is the appearance of problems with the car after refueling. The problem is characterized by a rapid drop in engine power at full speed, as well as when constantly changing gears. The way out of the situation is to completely drain the bad fuel mixture, wash the engine and all the fuel system pipes.

• Dirt in the fuel filter;
• Problems with injector nozzles;
• Dirty throttle valves;
• Fuel pump power failure.

The main symptom of a malfunction of these parts is that there will be a gradual drop in the power of the car’s engine, after which the car will stall even after sharply pressing the gas pedal. If you do not release the clutch carefully when changing gears, this will also cause the engine to stall.

The contamination of the fuel filter and fuel pump can be judged by the unstable operation of the machine even during idling and during rapid braking (when the supply of the fuel mixture decreases). And if the performance of fuel filters can be easily established during an external inspection and eliminated by replacing them, then to detect other causes, you need a full-fledged computer diagnostics, which can only be carried out in a car service center.

Another reason for a stalled car associated with the operation of the fuel pump is boiling gasoline in the fuel pump. This happens mainly in hot weather when the car is moving slowly or standing on the highway in traffic jams. The car will start to stall while driving, but when you turn on the idle speed and press the clutch, it will start again.

If boiling occurs, it is better to stand in a traffic jam with the engine turned off and gradually cool the car. After 5-10 minutes, the car's operation will be stable again.

Advice: if you recently did a wheel alignment with your own hands on a VAZ-2107, then to cool the car, proceed as follows - throw a piece of cloth made of dense material over the fuel pump body, which you first moisten with cold water.

The cause of a stalled engine is a power supply failure

In this type of problem, 3 reasons may be involved:

• Poor contact with the terminals of the new battery;
• Detection of poor contact or breakdown along the entire length of high-voltage wires;
• The appearance of malfunctions in the generator or ignition coil system of the car.

If the problem lies in damp high-voltage wires, then it is best to replace them completely along with the battery contacts. If the terminals make poor contact, you need to carefully clean them with sandpaper and try to reconnect them. If the generator is found to be inoperable, the problem usually boils down to problems in the following parts:

1. Broken timing belt;
2. There is a malfunction inside the housing of the unit itself.

A problem with the generator is easily detected when the corresponding indicator on the dashboard turns on. In addition, if there is insufficient energy supply, the backlight of the on-board panel will gradually fade, and a set of other diagnostic sensors will show incorrect values.

Advice: if when you press the gas the car jerks, then stalls and cannot start, then the problem is related to the failure of the ignition coils. It is best to replace these parts in a car service using special equipment.

From the list of reasons that are directly related to the car engine, you need to move on to problems that arise in the fuel and air supply systems, as well as malfunctions of components responsible for exhaust gas removal.

Main reasons and ways to solve them

Lada Priora 16 valves is a car created on the basis of innovative technologies borrowed from foreign concerns, so the technical side provides different functionality. Another important property is that all parts are original, so if necessary, the consumer can easily carry out repair work.

The reasons why a car does not start may differ depending on external influences, namely the lack of starting torque in cold weather, due to technical problems, and so on.

Starter failures and their solutions

If the starter does not turn and the car engine does not start, then the following breakdowns and ways to eliminate them can be identified.

Why Lada Priora won't start - reasons

There are two cases when the car does not start at all - if the starter works or if it does not work. Both cases are negative, but the difference is that the signs of trouble to listen for and look for are slightly different. If the Priora starter does not turn, it is recommended to check the following points:

• The battery may be discharged. Charge it or, if you're short on time, borrow a working battery from a friend to test your guess.
• The battery terminals are oxidized or the wire terminals are oxidized. Check, ring the contacts, and then lubricate them with technical Vaseline. Finally, check the tightness of the terminals and, if necessary, tighten them.
• The engine or other components of the machine are jammed. The culprit may be the crankshaft, generator pulley or pump. We'll have to check all this.
• The starter is broken, the inside of it is damaged or worn out: the drive gear, the teeth of the flywheel ring. In order to determine the malfunction, you will have to dismantle and then disassemble it - only inspection of the parts can confirm the hypothesis. You don't always need to change the starter - just install a new part inside.
• Problems with the starter circuit. You will have to carry out diagnostics first while driving, and then look at it manually. Most often, the culprits are oxidized or loose wires, relays, or ignition switch.
• Starter traction relay malfunction. The diagnostic mechanism is no different from the previous version: turn the key to the second position, there should be clicks. The relay clicks and this is normal starter operation.
• Poor contact with the “minus”, the wires or contacts of the traction relay are oxidized. A click will be heard, but the starter will not turn. You need to ring the entire system, and then clean it at the connections, tighten the terminals.
• Short circuit or break in the holding winding of the traction relay. If this is the case, you will have to replace the starter traction relay. Instead of a click, a cracking sound will be heard when you turn the key, and the relay itself needs to be checked with an ohmmeter or touched, assessing the degree of heating.
• The problem is inside: the armature winding, the commutator, the starter brushes are worn out. You need to dismantle the starter and carry out diagnostics from the battery, and then with a multimeter. The freewheel is running slowly. The armature will rotate, but the flywheel will remain in place.

The car does not start due to insufficient crankshaft speed

The primary reason why a car may have difficulty starting when cold is poor crankshaft movement. When you try to activate the motor, it may rotate too slowly, which is why the crankshaft simply does not reach the required starting frequency. The standard starting frequency for starting the motor is approximately 40-50 rpm. If you notice that the crankshaft is not rotating fast enough, the reasons for this are the following:

1. Insufficient battery charge.
2. Solidification of engine oil.

The solution to the problem is based on the cause of the problem. If you leave your battery in your car in the cold, draining it may be the best possible outcome.

As for motor oil, this is a common mistake made by novice car enthusiasts. I bought the car in the summer, with summer oil, and even mineral oil, but did not drain it before the frost. So it freezes, and quite quickly. If you are faced with such a problem, there is nothing you can do. There is a temporary solution, but it is quite dangerous. You need to pour a little gasoline into the oil filler neck and crank the crankshaft with the starter several times, and then leave the car for 24 hours. The oil will become less thick, but in this case you will soon have to change:

Therefore, immediate advice for novice car enthusiasts: with the onset of frost, drain the mineral oil from the engine. The sooner you do this, the lower the risk of a problem occurring. Experienced drivers advise using semi-synthetics for the winter, which can withstand much lower temperatures.

Lada Priora Sedan 2009, 98 l. With. - observation

Lada Priora, 2012

Comments 34

My revs are fluctuating, I’ve already tried everything and nothing helps, but when I decided to just pull the gas pedal slightly towards myself, the revs returned to normal and everything is ok, apparently there’s a problem with the throttle cable, I’ll try to tighten it.

Priora 2014, 106 thousand mileage, 16kL engine. 127, 106hp, air conditioning, abs. There is a gas injector (distribution) of the latest generation. The whole point is that at idle speed on a warm engine the speed fluctuates up to 1000, (precisely on a warm one) and on gasoline this is not so pronounced, practically not noticeable and a rare phenomenon, although it gives Sometimes you know about yourself, sometimes you increase the speed, release the pedal, it disappears, but as for the gas, things are already the other way around. Before this, the check light was on, diagnostics showed a malfunction of the throttle mechanism, I thought it was the problem, I bought a new one, changed it, and retrained it. As soon as I got home, the revs started to pick up again. What could be the reason, has anyone encountered it?

Hello, you described my problem))) did you solve it?)

Need advice. The cylinders turn off and whatever one wants, it doesn’t matter the first or the third or two at once, the error shows gaps in the protection. I changed everything I could, coils, filters, fuel pump assembly, crankshaft sensor, they didn’t give a damn. I changed all the spark plugs passed but not for long at 1000 km. I washed the throttle and already took everything apart. Priora 2 2015 Guards

The same problem after removing the intake manifold injectors on xx Jackie Chan is generally gesticulating and yelling error 0101, they have already moved everything again, checked the spark plugs and changed them. Misfires, increased consumption of air flow sensor, changed and don’t know where to dig next

The same problem, only the speed fluctuates when hot from 1000 to 2000 thousand

Please tell me, the speed fluctuates and it eats a lot, when you take out the chip from the DTOZh the speed returns to normal and the fan turns on, I put the chip back in, the speed is normal and it eats a little, after a while everything is the same again. Does anyone know what kind of miracles this is?

All your problems start from the catalyst, because it is the catalyst that determines whether the fuel has burned out and begins to regulate the system. A new one costs from 3 to 8 thousand rubles. and with our quality of fuel they go down the drain very quickly. So don’t even doubt it and go ahead. After the firmware, your euro level will drop (it all depends on the firmware), but I can say one thing: if the firmware is good, the engine will only be pleased.

Symptoms: Accelerated engine warm-up Speeds float at xx Acceleration response decreases There have been cases where consumption decreased (decently)

Don’t forget to ask the technician to set the temperature threshold of the first fan mode (if you have 2 of them) to 99℃ (from the factory 103℃), but if the technician is normal, he will do it himself or suggest it to you.

I have a 2007 Priora, I bought it half a year ago, the revs fluctuated, the car sometimes stalled when switched to neutral. I changed the throttle sensor and IAC, washed the throttle body. Now, when starting a cold engine, the revolutions jump from 1200 to 1900. I went for diagnostics and there were no errors. They told me to change the adsorber valve, but the valve is working. Maybe someone has encountered such a problem?

Have you encountered engine problems when the car stalls in traffic jams or the engine speed is unstable? There may be several reasons for these malfunctions. It is recommended to start searching for a problem with diagnostics, and if this is not possible, then first perform a check, and only then change the faulty parts.

AvtoVAZ installs the same type of engines on modern Lada cars (Kalina, Granta, Priora, Largus, Vesta, Niva or XRAY), so the solution to problems for all these cars is similar.

The idle speed fluctuates, the engine stalls when moving (on the move) or at a standstill, the reasons may be the following:

1. The engine air filter is clogged.
2. The spark plugs are faulty.
3. High voltage wires are faulty.
4. Ignition module/coils are faulty.
5. The idle air control (IAC) or its electrical circuits are faulty.
6. The throttle position sensor (TPS) is faulty or the throttle assembly is dirty.
7. The mass air flow sensor (MAF) is not working.
8. The oxygen sensor (OS) or circuits are faulty.
9. There is insufficient pressure in the fuel rail.
10. Compression in the cylinders is low.
11. The exhaust system is leaking.
12. Air leaks through the crankcase ventilation hoses and the hose connecting the intake pipe to the vacuum brake booster.
13. The cylinder head gasket is damaged.
14. The timing belt or tension roller is worn.
15. The camshaft cams are worn.
16. The valve timing is off. Check the alignment of the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft.
17. The engine control unit (ECU) or its circuits are faulty.