Battery spins but car won't start

Nowadays a car is not a luxury, but a means of transportation. Every driver has encountered a problem when his “iron horse” refuses to go. This is the most unpleasant situation, because of which you can be late for work, miss a vacation with friends or another important event. So what to do if the car won't start? To begin with, don’t panic, many problems can be solved on your own and without visiting a car service center. So, if the car does not start, you need to look for the reasons under the hood.

Voltage problems

A common problem when starting an engine is low voltage or no voltage at all. First of all, you need to check the fuses. Not every car depends on the safety system to start the engine, but it is still worth doing.

Over time, any wiring connections to the battery can become oxidized or dirty. This will result in no current flowing. It is necessary to clean the battery terminals and wire connections with a dry cloth or sandpaper. After that, try to start the car again.

If the terminals and wires are in order, then you should check the battery. A dead battery is a common problem. You can check the battery charge with a tester or by external signs. To check the performance of the battery, insert the key into the ignition and try to start the engine. A “weak” starter is a clear sign that the battery is discharged.

There are several ways to fix the problem with a dead battery. Light a cigarette from another car or try to start the car from a tow. The second method is only suitable for cars with a manual transmission. If the car does not start, you will have to remove the battery and charge it. Do not forget that the battery life is no more than 5 years.

Crankshaft sensor

Sometimes it happens that the car starts normally when cold, but if you turn off the engine and after some time try to start it again, nothing will work.

Sometimes the car just won't start. The starter works, the fuel pump pumps, the spark plugs and brains are in order, in this case you should check the crankshaft sensor, perhaps it is gradually dying.

To do this, remove the sensor, connect a multi-meter to the connectors in voltmeter mode and quickly pump it in front of its end with a screwdriver; there should be voltage surges.

Another way is to remove the sensor and measure its resistance, with the same multi-meter, set it to a continuity test and ring the two contacts of the sensor, it should show approximately 750 Ohms

If there are no jumps, change the sensor. If there are surges, you can try to check if there is dust or dirt under the sensor, if the end is dirty; if after cleaning the engine still does not want to start, we try to install a new sensor, since it is quite inexpensive.

If after installing a new sensor the situation has not improved, then it is not the problem. Another easiest way to determine that the sensor is faulty is to look at the tachometer; as a rule, if there is a fault, the speed does not twitch when trying to start.

Problem with starter and ignition switch

The battery may be charged and the high voltage wires are fine, but you still won't be able to start the engine. Then the cause of the malfunction should be looked for at the ignition switch or starter.

To check the serviceability of the ignition switch, you need to insert the key into the ignition switch and turn it to the second position. If the red lights on the dashboard do not light up, then the ignition switch may be faulty. You can check it in another way. When you try to start the engine, turn on the headlights; if they start to dim, it means the ignition is in working order. A malfunction of the ignition switch can be eliminated in most cases by replacing the switch.

Corrosion and dirt damage not only the wires on the battery, but also the starter. To check the starter's performance, you will need a tester and an assistant. The electrical tester is connected to the wire that supplies the car's starter. At this moment, the assistant should try to start the engine. If the tester shows that there is electric current on the wire, but the starter does not crank, then this problem can be solved by replacing the starter. Attention! Do not forget about precautions, do not touch wires and other parts of the engine with bare hands. It is best to carry out this procedure while wearing dielectric gloves.

There are times when the starter turns, the car does not start. What to do in this situation? To answer the complex and trivial question of why the car won’t start, you need to check other components of the car. Lack of spark is another option why the engine refuses to start. Checking the spark plugs should be the last thing on your mind; first you need to deal with the ignition coil.

Diagram and pinout of the ignition switch on Priora

The diagram looks like this:

Using the diagram, you can track the presence of an immobilizer, as well as a blocker for excessive cranking of the starter. It starts from the battery - the pinout transmits voltage from it to point 30. Here the connection to K4 is a fuse relay. The contact group of the ignition switch of a Priora car will only work if the locking rod is in place and holds the key.

There are two positions in the diagram – I (ignition) and II (engine start). Replace the ignition switch of the Lada Priora in accordance with this diagram.

Ignition

So, if everything listed above is in good condition, check the ignition. First you need to test the ignition coil. It is checked with a multimeter. If such a device is not available, then you can stop by the nearest car service center.

It happens that moisture accumulates in the ignition distribution cover, this can cause the engine to not start. The cover must be removed and checked for moisture. Any moisture or condensation that appears must be removed with a dry cloth. Since you had to remove the cover, you should check it for cracks. A cracked lid should be replaced with a new one.

The wires on the ignition coil may be damaged or leaking electrical current. Place the tester near the wire insulation. Functional wires will not conduct current through the insulation. If the tester shows that the wires are faulty, you will have to buy new ones.

Removing and installing (replacing) the ignition switch on a Priora

Before removing and replacing the module, have a few tools ready:

chisel;
hammer;
pliers;
key "10";
Phillips screwdriver.

Replacing the Priora ignition switch is carried out according to the following algorithm:

Put the car on the handbrake, remove the negative from the battery.
Remove the steering column covers - to do this, insert a screwdriver into the small technical holes and unscrew the bolts.
In front of you will be a steering shaft, to which the ignition module is attached with four bolts. They are twisted very tightly - so that potential hijackers would have to waste time removing the module; to do this, they would have to tear off all the fasteners. Place the chisel under the bolt head and tap the chisel with a hammer until the bolt head begins to rise.
By lifting the threaded fasteners, you can unscrew them - but for convenience, it is better to do this not with your hand, but with prepared narrow pliers - there is a lot of space for standard ones.
As you unscrew each bolt, try to “catch” the falling module.
All that holds it is a block of wires. Disconnect it, then install a new ignition module for the Priora car instead of the old one. Tighten the fasteners just as tightly, but try not to tear them off when tightening.

Spark plug

Spark plugs are designed to ignite fuel-air mixtures. They come in different types: spark, incandescent, semiconductor and others. If your car does not start, then turning the starter for a long time will lead to flooding of the spark plugs. After which they will need to be changed. Otherwise, working with flooded spark plugs will harm other parts of your car.

Problems in the fuel system

Car won't start? The starter cranks at full power, but the engine still won't start? Then the problem should be looked for in the fuel supply. Modern cars often use electronic fuel delivery. The problem is that it will be difficult to diagnose on your own. Diagnostic equipment is expensive, and you need to go to a car service center. But there are signs by which you can understand what kind of malfunction is in the fuel system, thereby saving you money on diagnostics.

The very first thing you should do is check all the electrical wires under the hood. It will take a lot of time, but it's better than paying a lot of money for diagnostics. Each injector that supplies fuel to the system has its own separate wire. Check all wires with a tester, and also pay attention to the insulation.

Car won't start? The causes of malfunction when starting the engine may be in the operation of the fuel pump. Its performance can only be checked using special equipment, which not every driver has. You can try to find out the cause by checking the voltage on the positive wire of the fuel pump. It may be missing due to a faulty fuse. If the fuse is good and there is no voltage in the wire, then this problem can be solved by replacing the fuel pump motor relay.

Lada Kalina starts poorly and stalls when cold

Car: Lada Kalina, 2008. Asked by: Anonymous. The essence of the question: is it difficult to start when cold?

When cold it starts poorly, once started the revs increase sharply, then it stalls, the check engine light does not come on. When warmed up it works perfect. TPS and IAC replaced.

Mass air flow sensor as a problem area for poor engine starting

Most likely the mass air flow sensor is faulty. If the TPS and IAC are replaced, and you are confident in their performance, then there are no other options. It is best to look at the parameters of the mass air flow sensor when starting on a cold one, which it produces.

Your symptoms are similar to incorrect readings from this particular sensor.

Mass air flow sensor is one of the most expensive sensors in a car.

No compression

Does the car start and stall or not start at all? This may happen if the engine lacks compression. Compression in an engine is the ability to maintain the pressure that is created in the combustion chamber when the piston rises to its highest dead center. Compression is measured with a special device - a compression meter. Whether you need such a diagnosis can be determined by external signs. Blue smoke from the exhaust pipe, unstable engine operation or idle speed does not stand still - these are all reasons for weak compression. Such an engine will consume more oil and fuel. If you put your hand on the exhaust pipe and small drops of oil remain on your hand, then this is another symptom of engine failure. It is best to contact specialists. After all, the cause could be a burnt-out piston.

Bendix replacement

The most common cause of engine failure with a rotating starter is considered to be a broken bendix. Its cost is low, so there is no point in repairing the part. Literally speaking, Bendix is considered a consumable. Replace it by following simple instructions:

We remove the old starter. We disconnect the negative terminal from the battery in advance and get rid of all fastening bolts and nuts using a screwdriver and wrench.
The retractor unit also needs to be removed.
Disconnect the traction relay from the housing. It must first be disassembled.
We take out the starter entirely, removing the fastenings. Let's put it aside.
We find the retaining ring and dismantle it. We remove the bendix.

Reassemble the mechanism in reverse order and start the car. If no errors were made during assembly, the car will start quickly. The main thing is to choose a new starter that is identical to the original one.

To summarize, we note that the cause of a breakdown is not always an engine malfunction. Identifying the “sore spot” is possible only with an integrated approach. If you do not have enough experience and are afraid of making things worse, then it is better not to attempt to repair your vehicle yourself.

Many car enthusiasts have encountered a problem when the Lada Kalina does not start the first time. There may be various reasons for this, which need to be known and eliminated in time. In this article, we will look at the main reasons that the car does not start the first time and methods for eliminating these faults.

Timing problems

The timing belt is responsible for the operation of the engine in the car. Sometimes a metal chain is installed instead of a belt. Both are responsible for rotating the crankshaft and camshaft.

When using a car, every part wears out over time. The timing belt is no exception. Under constant load, it wears out and can rupture. Such a violation will lead to damage to the engine valves, and subsequently to its breakdown. And then a problem arises: the starter turns, the car does not start. What to do? A complete timing belt repair or valve belt replacement can be quite expensive. Therefore, to prevent such a problem from happening, it is advisable to change the belt every 2 years (this is approximately 60,000 km).

You shouldn’t delay replacing it if you don’t want to harm your beloved car. Leave the belt replacement to professionals to avoid stretching.

What you need to check in your car before the coming cold weather

First of all, it is advisable to make sure that your battery is in good condition, especially if you have been using it for more than 3 years. Any electricians can do this, and you can also bring it to a normal battery store; in most cases they have services for checking and restoring them.
The engine oil must be suitable for its temperature range. For example, in most cases, viburnums use semi-synthetic 10w40 (thickening at -25) or 5w40 synthetic (thickening at -30), that is, if your car is stored outside and frosts can be greater than -25, then it is advisable to use 5w40 synthetic oil, which will make it easier to start the engine. You also need to take into account that over time the oil loses its properties and if your mileage is approaching an oil change, then it is advisable to change it for a new one before frost.
Gearbox oil. On Kalina cars, the factory pours not very good quality oil into manual gearboxes, and without pressing the clutch it is often impossible to start the car in cold weather. I recommend that on VAZ cars you immediately change the oil to a new one at the first service; in the future it will only have to be changed after 70 thousand km and, as a result, there will be fewer problems with operation in cold weather at a low cost.
Checking spark plugs and replacing them. If the spark plugs have not been changed for a long time (about 20 thousand), then it makes sense to install new ones, otherwise you can unscrew them and look at their condition (at least clean them).

The engine does not start in cold weather

Starting a car in severe frost is difficult, but not hopeless. If the outside temperature is -15 °C or lower, then any battery loses 50% of its power, this is another problem why the car is a bad car, you need to turn on the high beam for 10-15 seconds. This will allow the electrolyte in the battery to warm up to produce additional energy.

Attention! Never turn the starter for more than 5 seconds. Otherwise, there is a chance that the battery will die completely or the spark plugs will flood, which is unacceptable at low temperatures. If the car is in good condition, then on the 2-3rd try everything will work out and your car will start.

It happens that the battery is completely dead. This can be understood if the car stalls and does not start. In this case, you will need a cigarette lighter. If the car has an injection engine, it will be more difficult to “light” due to the large number of electronics. You can “light” from another car even when its engine is running. The main thing is not to confuse polarity and order. However, if you made a mistake and mixed up the signs, run quickly to get a new battery.

After connecting to the “donor machine” you need to wait 10-15 minutes for your battery to charge. Afterwards, we disconnect from the car and try to start. If the engine starts, give it a couple of minutes, otherwise it will stall.

Remember that starting the engine at sub-zero temperatures is equal to 500 km. Take care of your car.

Diagnostics

Have you noticed the above “symptoms”? Make sure that it is a faulty sensor that is causing the problem. If you have a voltmeter among the tools, you can carry out the diagnostics yourself.

Checking the circuit

Before checking the circuit, prepare a multimeter in advance and set it up to work. Next, open the hood and disconnect power from the idle air control. Then you need to set the voltmeter operating mode on the multimeter. The black probe needs to be connected to the ground of the car, and the red one is connected one by one to all the terminals on the block.

Checking the idle speed sensor on Lada Kalina

Using the help of a second person, start the engine and watch the multimeter readings. The parameters must be within 12 volts. If the multimeter shows a value that is significantly lower than expected, the cause must be sought in the battery, and when the voltage is completely absent, the cause must be sought in the wiring or in the engine control unit. If during verification it turns out that the circuit is working properly, you can focus on the sensor.

Sensor check

When checking the sensor, the multimeter must be switched to resistance testing mode. Next, regardless of polarity, you need to connect the probes to terminals A and B, then to C and D. The resistance at the working sensor should be within 53 Ohms.

After this, you need to connect the probe to all terminals one by one. The multimeter should show “infinity” in all connection options

Can't determine the cause?

Your car won't start, and you decide to find out the reason yourself, but it doesn't work. In this case, there is no need to “torture” your car. Contact specialized car services for help. The services contain highly specialized diagnostic equipment, with the help of which all faults and breakdowns of the car can be quickly found. After a complete diagnosis, they will tell you why your car won't start.

Turning the ignition key, the driver observes the same picture every time. First, the instrument panel indicators light up to indicate the presence of fuel and battery charge. In the extreme position, the starter turns on and begins to rotate the crankshaft. To start a serviceable engine, a few crankshaft revolutions are enough, but what to do when the starter works, but the car stubbornly refuses to start? The culprit for this situation can be a variety of malfunctions, because the normal operation of the engine is ensured by several automotive systems at once.

Gasoline pump

Sometimes it happens that the fuel pump is capricious. Again, often during the cold season. The starter works, but the engine does not start, you cannot hear the fuel pump pumping, and sometimes the exclamation mark flashes.

To check whether there is pressure in the system, you need to open the hood, on the left, on the injector ramp, unscrew the black cap. There will be a nipple there, like in tires, if you press it, it should spray.

If it splashes, then it’s not the fuel pump, but if not, then we’ve found the culprit. As a rule, after recharging the battery, the fuel pump starts working, but if not, we look for the reason.

Often the relay is to blame. In the transmission tunnel, on the passenger side, we unscrew the casing, in the same place where we unscrewed it when we transferred the brains. There will be several power coils, three usually, you just need to tap them or warm them in your hands.

You also need to check whether the ECU is flooded, but if it is moved, as mentioned above, then this is not the reason. The best option is of course a service station. This is always the best option, but it costs money, so it’s better to do everything described above, in case there’s some little thing that can be corrected on your own.

You can get to the fuel pump yourself, it’s located under the rear sofa, fold it back, unscrew 4 screws and there it is, first remove the connector, take a multi-meter or a light bulb with two wires (test), insert contacts on the black and gray wires, turn with the starter, The lamp should be on and the multi-meter should show approximately 12V.

Having made sure that the voltage reaches the fuel pump, but it does not work, we quickly remove it and inspect it, perhaps the coarse filter has iced up (in winter), but if not, then we change it.

If the lamp does not light up and the multi-meter refuses to show the treasured 12V, go to the front seats, open the plug where we have the ECU diagnostic connector and there are 3 fuses, check them, and at the same time look at the relay, as described just above.

Starting the internal combustion engine. How does this happen?

A car engine only works if several conditions are met:

A sufficient amount of air-fuel mixture enters the cylinders.
At a certain moment (at the end of the compression stroke), the spark plug generates a spark of the required power.
The crankshaft and camshaft rotate with strict interaction, ensuring timely filling of the cylinders with the combustible mixture, proper functioning of the gas distribution system and operation of the fuel pump in carburetor internal combustion engines.

By turning the ignition key, the driver supplies power to the starter solenoid relay, which turns on its electric motor and ensures engagement with the crankshaft flywheel ring gear. As the crankshaft rotates, it converts angular momentum into reciprocating motion of the pistons and drives the camshaft (or shafts). The latter ensures timely opening of the valves, due to which the combustion chambers are filled with the fuel mixture at the right time.

The engine power system is responsible for its preparation and delivery. As soon as the piston reaches the top point at the end of the compression stroke, the fine fuel mixture is ignited by the spark formed on the spark plug (in diesel units, ignition occurs due to strong air compression). After this, the micro-explosion acts on the piston, which moves down and causes the crankshaft to rotate - this is what the engine starting diagram looks like.

Why does the starter turn normally, but the engine does not catch and does not start?

In half the cases when a car refuses to start, the starter is to blame. At the same time, the other half occurs in situations where the starter regularly rotates the crankshaft, but the engine starts only after repeated attempts or is completely silent. This could be due to a variety of reasons.

Driver inattention or negligence

The notorious human factor can manifest itself in the most unexpected ways. For example, a banal lack of fuel or an alarm that blocks the fuel pump. It also happens that some “well-wisher” clogged the exhaust pipe, or a careless driver, while backing up, got stuck in a pile of soil or a snowdrift. Such reasons do not fall into the category of technical malfunctions, but they can spoil a lot of nerves.

Technical problems - starter malfunctions

Every more or less experienced driver will distinguish the sound of a starter, which regularly rotates the engine, from the useless buzz of its electric motor when there is no engagement with the flywheel. When starting to troubleshoot, you should definitely make sure that the starter is functioning normally, and that no extraneous knocks, clicks or malfunctions are observed during its operation.

How and why the immobilizer fails

Let's dwell on this topic in a little more detail. The thing is that the ECU controller on this model is located under the heater radiator. In second-generation models, the controller was moved.

So, if the Kalina does not start, you need to remove the side wall from the left side in the passenger seat and visually check the ECU. The block must be dry. If it is wet, then it is filled with coolant - in this case, it will not be possible to restore the ECU, only replacement will help.

First of all, when exposed to liquid, the output switch burns out. The chip can be re-soldered, but after such repairs the problems will go away for literally two months, and then they will appear again. The heater radiator will need to be replaced. If this problem exists, then experts recommend installing a new controller between the engine compartment partition and the stove.

Now about the immobilizer - in Kalina cars the manufacturer installs APS-6 immobilizers. In very rare cases, these devices fail on their own. Often, the problem is hidden in the wiring or control panel. The key fob body is held together with one self-tapping screw - the screw can be overtightened or undertightened. A crack appears on the remote device chip between the transponder contacts. In this case, if the Kalina does not start, only a spare or training key, or replacing the remote control will help.

Problems with the fuel system

Even the most “vigorous” battery and a new, working starter will not be able to start the car if problems arise with the supply of fuel to the cylinders. For this reason, the next thing to check is the engine power supply system.

1.Fuel pump

For carburetor and diesel engines, this unit is located directly next to the cylinder head or block. Injection power plants are equipped with an electric pump, which is installed in the fuel tank. Their operation is judged by a short buzzing sound that appears after the ignition is turned on. As for fuel pumps in carburetor engines, they are mechanically driven by a cam mounted on the camshaft.

It is easy to check the functionality of the fuel pump - to do this, remove the hose from the carburetor inlet fitting and lower it into a suitable container. After this, you should pump up the fuel using the manual pumping lever or by turning on the starter. If the result is negative, check the passage of gasoline through the fuel line and clean the mesh located in the top cover of the pump. If this does not help, then inspect the membrane and valves of the fuel pump. After replacing damaged and worn parts, the functionality of the device will be restored.

2.Fuel filters

Along the path of fuel passing from the tank to the engine there are several filter units - coarse meshes located on the fuel receiver, in the fuel pump and carburetor, and in addition, paper filters located in the section of the fuel line. The intensity and even the possibility of supplying fuel to the internal combustion engine depends on their purity. If you find a blockage, clean or replace the filter elements.

Throttle and injectors

Gasoline internal combustion engines operate on a fuel mixture, which is prepared in the carburetor or in the intake manifold (for fuel-injected cars). In the first case, the fuel passes through a whole system of channels, jets and nozzles that are located in the carburetor. In the second, it is supplied by injectors according to signals received from the electronic engine control unit (ECU).

The air supply is metered using a throttle valve, which, depending on the engine design, can be mechanically or electrically driven. Clean the parts of this assembly and the throttle itself. Also check if fuel is being supplied to the cylinders. If you are dealing with an injection car, then press the fitting spool located at the bottom of the fuel rail - gasoline should flow out from there under pressure. If the stream is too weak, then check the filters, fuel line and pressure reducing valve of the fuel pump.

In carburetor engines, the fuel supply can be judged by sharply opening the throttle - in this case, a portion of fuel will be injected from the accelerator pump nozzle into the diffuser. In addition, for gasoline power units, inspect the spark plugs - they should not be dry. Otherwise, check for the presence of a control signal at the injectors. If everything is in order with this, then you should unscrew the ramp fastening and move it away from the manifold in order to inspect the spray nozzles when starting the engine. The absence of fuel streams or their weak intensity indicates the need to clean or replace the injectors.

As for diesel engines, fuel is supplied to them under high pressure, and a much more complex pump (fuel injection pump) and specially designed injectors are responsible for this. To repair these components, special equipment is required, so in this case it is better to contact specialists.

Something else useful for you:

Video: The starter hums, but the engine does not turn over

Malfunctions of electronic systems

To check the ignition system, unscrew and remove the spark plug from one engine cylinder. Having installed the tip of the high-voltage wire on its contact nut, touch the spark plug skirt to the cylinder head and crank the engine with the starter. In this case, a powerful spark of a purple or blue hue should appear on the contacts. If the spark is too weak (or there is none at all), then we check the operation of the computer, ignition coils and distributor (for an old-style internal combustion engine).

With modern computers installed in cars, engine starting failure occurs to a much lesser extent than before. But it does happen, and when it does, if you know some basic tests and procedures, it will allow you to determine why your car won't start and often even be able to fix the problem yourself without relying on repair shops.

ECU

This is another popular problem when Kalina does not start. ECUs are the “brains” of the car; they themselves are quite reliable, and if you don’t touch them, then no problems will happen. However, most often the ECU is flooded.

This often happens when antifreeze leaks. This has already been discussed in the section on the immobilizer. When installing an alarm system or when pulling car wires, they forget to install the plugs - water gets into the ECU. Repairing an electronic unit is a futile task.

In the new generation, this problem was solved, and now the ECU is located in a different location. However, now another problem has appeared - if the drain hole, which is located next to the cabin filter, is clogged, then water can enter the computer through the holes.

Car starting process

To narrow down the reasons why the engine does not start, consider the process of starting a car. You need to better understand what happens when you turn the ignition key.

What happens on a properly running car?:

You sit behind the wheel and insert the ignition key into the ignition.
Turn the key to the first position - turn on the ignition, the lights on the instrument panel light up, and an internal test occurs.
Turn the key further and the electric starter starts working, which in turn spins up the engine. It's easy to hear by ear.
The next moment you hear that the engine has started, you must release the key, which will return to its original position. The engine is running and you are ready to start driving.

A number of things can go wrong during the engine starting process and we need to help you identify where the problem is in order to determine what needs to be done to resolve the situation.

The starter does not turn or turns but very slowly

When you turn the ignition key to start the engine, you should hear a rapid series of clicks, bad if you hear the sound of the engine cranking slowly or even nothing at all. The most common cause for any of these cases is a weak or dead battery , or dirty or oxidized (white coating) battery terminals.

Before going any further in troubleshooting, you need to turn on the headlights and then try to start the car. If there is insufficient or dim lighting when you turn the key, then the battery is to blame. If the light is bright and does not change when you turn the key to start the engine, then the battery is good.

In this case, the following reasons are possible:

The gear selector is not in park or neutral, or there is a problem with the neutral safety switch. Try moving the gear selector to neutral again.
You did not press the clutch pedal all the way down on a standard car (if the gear is engaged) or there are problems with the clutch. And in the case of an automatic transmission, they did not press the brake.
There is a problem with the starter .
Problem with connecting wires.

Bendix replacement

We remove the old starter. We disconnect the negative terminal from the battery in advance and get rid of all fastening bolts and nuts using a screwdriver and wrench.
The retractor unit also needs to be removed.
Disconnect the traction relay from the housing. It must first be disassembled.
We take out the starter entirely, removing the fastenings. Let's put it aside.
We find the retaining ring and dismantle it. We remove the bendix.

The starter turns, but the car does not start

You turn the key and hear the starter working, but the engine does not start. This means the battery and starter are working properly.

If you continue to crank the engine for an extended period of time, the battery will eventually run out and will need to be recharged.

There are several reasons for this type of non-start condition. The most common of which is the fuel tank not delivering fuel Assuming there is fuel in the tank, you will need to go through a series of tests to determine what is causing the problem.

The testing procedure requires the use of specialized equipment to determine the problem area. There are three main tests to determine the correct direction to identify the fault. You will need to check the spark plugs, fuel delivery and compression , in that order.

Spark plug:

The easiest way to check the spark is to unscrew the spark plug from the engine block, insert it into the tip of the ignition wire and touch the threaded part of the spark plug to a metal part of the car, while someone else cranks the engine with the starter, you look at the side electrode of the spark plug , if a spark is visible, then the spark plug is working.

This procedure must be carried out with extreme caution! Handle only the rubber part of the wire, but under no circumstances hold on to the metal parts of the spark plug, so as not to receive a powerful electric shock!

You can also determine if the spark plug is working properly using an inexpensive spark tester. This is a device that is available at most auto stores. You can use it by simply holding the candle electrode near it.

If there is no spark, or a very weak spark, you will need to do a series of tests that depend on the type of vehicle. In this case, you cannot do without a specialized service station to get the correct diagnostic procedure.

If there is a spark, then you should proceed to check the fuel supply.

Fuel does not enter the engine:

First of all, you need to listen to the operation of the fuel pump inside the gas tank. When you turn the ignition key to the first position, you should hear the pump running: it makes noise for a few seconds to build up fuel pressure, then the noise goes away. If you don't hear it, it may mean the fuel pump or circuit is not working.

Fuel pump failure is a common problem on modern cars..

Cars are very sensitive to a certain fuel pressure. If the pressure does not meet the required parameters, this causes noticeable problems in operation or the engine does not start at all. To check fuel pressure, you need special equipment. Since you are working with flammable liquids, this type of work can be quite dangerous, so unless you know what you are doing, you should skip this step and take it to an auto repair shop.

Engine compression:

If you know you have spark and fuel, the next step is to check the compression . To do this, you need to remove the spark plugs and, using a compression gauge, test the compression ratio on each cylinder. If the compression is very low, then this is a sure sign that the engine requires repair.

We will open Priora in Moscow and Moscow Region

Promptly, carefully and professionally, experienced technicians from the LOCKSERVICE emergency service will provide assistance with the problem of how to open a Priora without a key. We have been working in the emergency car opening market for more than 12 years and know how to open a Lada Priora or open a car of any other brand without any damage. In what other situations may you need to call LOCKSERVICE specialists?

The doors locked spontaneously, the keys remained in the cabin;
The battery is dead;
The lock cylinders are faulty or dirty;
Locks froze in the cold due to moisture that accumulated on the seals;
The key is lost or broken;
The alarm went off from the inside and the driver was locked inside the car;
The car stalled in a traffic jam, the central locking was blocked;
The key fob is discharged, the car does not open;
The lock in the glove compartment is broken;
The trunk does not open;
The key broke in half in the door keyhole;
The gas tank cap does not come off;
The lock of the tank filler cap is broken.

There are many ways to open any car without a key. We offer you those that can be used in any conditions, while remembering that the best way to open a car is to entrust it to professionals.

Problems that require opening a Lada Priora and how to solve them

1. How to open Priora doors without a key if they are blocked

Situations in which you need to know how to open Priora doors without a key happen quite often and the reasons for this can be very different: the battery is dead and the car does not respond to pressing the key fob button, or the door accidentally slammed and the keys were left in the ignition, etc.

The most popular way to open a Lada Priora without keys among those owners of this brand who have already been in this situation is as follows:

you need to remove the rubber seal at the bottom of the window glass;
insert a piece of wire about 60 cm long with a curved end into the door gap, and the hook should point towards the trunk;
place the hook in the area of the lock cylinder and try to hook the rod that opens the latch;
lift the wire up, opening the door.

Another way to open a Priora door involves using a metal ruler. Only instead of pulling the rod upward with a wire, the rod can be pulled down with a ruler. The opening principle is the same. Both of these methods can also be used if the central lock in the Priora does not work or the lock cylinder is broken. In fact, opening Priora doors is a simple process and takes a few minutes. But you need to resort to this only in extreme cases, and whenever possible, call an emergency team to open the locks.

2. Opening the Priora trunk when it is locked

Whatever the reasons for blocking the trunk, the easiest way to open the trunk of a Priora is to gain access through the car interior. By reclining the row of rear seats, the car owner has the opportunity to remove the trim from the trunk lid to get to the lock rod, or try to move the lock tongue with a screwdriver. The third option is to unscrew the lock itself.

Opening the trunk of a Priora can also be done with an assistant. One person should press the trunk opening button in the cabin, the second should lightly press the lid and then pull it up. This helps if the lid seals are not adjusted and the lock is stuck.

3. Open the hood of the Priora if the cable breaks or the lock breaks

Opening the hood of a Priora is not particularly difficult even for a non-professional. The lock cable can be accessed through the radiator grille without even having to remove it. The cable is clearly visible just above and to the right of the car emblem. By inserting a screwdriver or other handy object, you need to press on the cable and the hood will open. It’s another matter if the radiator grille is triple, there is a protective mesh or the cable is broken. In this case, you will have to crawl under the car and unscrew the engine protection, and then reach the lock hook with your hand.

We open the Priora ourselves

As a rule, owners of domestic cars prefer to deal with problems that arise in their cars on their own. However, not all cases can be solved as easily as described in this manual, and the cost of repairs for possible damage can be quite high. Is it worth the risk, or is it better to wait for the help of professionals?

LOCKSERVICE specialists are located in all districts of Moscow and cities of the Moscow region. This allows them to arrive at the call site within 15 minutes after the client calls and significantly reduces the cost of calling an emergency service. The craftsmen have extensive experience in opening cars, use special equipment, modern tools, and provide a guarantee for their work.

Call us right now or leave your number - we will call you back!

Conclusions or what to do?

As you can see, of all the possible options, you can even get to the service yourself only in the first cases considered. If the starter turns, but the car does not start, then most likely (unless you are a car mechanic) you will have to call for help.

If your starter does not work or the battery is simply dead , and the car has a manual transmission, you can start it with a pusher. To do this, you will need the help of passers-by or another car.

Never try to push start a car with an automatic transmission! This will only break it.

How to start a car with a pushrod

You need to: turn on the ignition, depress the clutch and start towing or pushing the car (it is advisable to pick up at least a speed of 10 km/h). Engage second gear and release the clutch. The car will jerk and start. Depress the clutch again and put the gearbox in neutral. Thank your rescuers and DO NOT turn off the car!

If the reason is a dead battery due to forgotten electrical appliances being turned on, then driving for 15-20 minutes will be enough for the battery to charge again and be enough for the next engine start.

And if you were unable to start because of the starter, then we advise you to go to a service station and do not turn off the car, otherwise you will have to start it again with outside help.

Good luck on the roads and keep an eye on your friend's technical condition.

Poor quality fuel

Spark plugs can also flood due to bad gasoline. This is another reason why the engine does not start. Very often, condensation forms in winter and clogs the coarse filter. To avoid this, periodically add pure alcohol to the tank in winter.

It smokes, sneezes, smokes like a snake Gorynych, this often happens in our time, but, as a rule, people have some remnants of conscience and they try not to reduce gasoline to a non-flammable state.

The car can even run on this kind of gasoline, the only problem is that it is absolutely not useful for the engine. To avoid this, refuel at large chain gas stations.

They, as a rule, monitor their reputation and do not allow this to happen, but if it turns out that you have filled in burnt gasoline, and even so much that the car does not want to start, you can drain the gasoline and fill in another, road gas, or if there is not much left , you can fill in more good 95 gasoline and its mixture with palenka will be more or less normal.

Of course, there are severe cases when filters and injectors become clogged and they have to be washed out for a long time and tediously (or whatever is easier to change), but this happens mainly when buying gasoline from some garage “oil workers”.

It’s quite easy to protect yourself from them - just refuel at trusted places and under no circumstances buy gasoline from any garage gas dealers. In principle, they are not such a common occurrence now, but they still occur, and people buy gasoline from them because it is cheaper, but it is better not to do this, the stingy pays twice - an immutable truth.

And if you really had to buy such a piece of water, at least filter it, there is no need to clog the filter with nozzles.