Oil pump VAZ Kalina 8 valves replacement

1. Remove the crankshaft timing belt and its key.

2. Remove the crankshaft position sensor.

3. We remove the oil intake.

4. 10 mm socket wrench , unscrew the six bolts securing the oil pump to the cylinder block.

5. Remove the oil pump from the engine.

6. We remove the remains of the sealing gasket from the mating surface of the cylinder block.

1. 5 mm hex wrench , unscrew the six bolts holding the pump housing and cover together.
2. Separate the pump housing and the cover.
3. Remove the drive gear from the cover.

4. We remove the driven gear from the housing.

Recommendation

The pressure reducing (safety) valve plug is tightened with a large torque. When unscrewing it, you may accidentally damage the pump cover. Also, the turnkey edges on the cork itself are damaged. Therefore, do not disassemble the valve unless necessary. The valve can be washed without disassembling it.

5. We wash the pump parts with diesel fuel or kerosene, wipe them dry and lubricate the gears with clean engine oil.

1. Inspect the oil pump parts. They should not show signs of heavy wear, metal accumulation, cracks or other damage.

2. Using a caliper, we measure the diameter of the mounting hole of the driven gear in the pump housing and the thickness of the partition between the driven and driving gears.

The diameter of the driven gear seat in the pump housing should not exceed 75.1 mm. The minimum thickness of the dividing wall between the drive and driven gears is 3.4 mm.

3. Using a micrometer, measure the thickness of the driven and driving gears. If the driven gear is thinner than 7.35 mm, and the driving gear is thinner than 7.41 mm, then replace the gears.

4. Place the drive gear in the oil pump housing. Applying the edge of a bench ruler to the mating surface of the oil pump housing, use a set of flat feeler gauges to determine the gap between the edge of the ruler and the gear. Repeat the test with the driven gear.

If the gap between the ruler and the drive gear is more than 0.12 mm (or 0.15 mm for the driven gear), the gears must be replaced.

On the removed pump, it is recommended to replace the front crankshaft oil seal installed in the pump cover

We assemble the pump in the reverse order of removal. In this case, the driven gear must be installed in the pump so that the side with the mark and chamfers on the teeth faces the housing.

The drive gear should be oriented in the same way during installation: with the chamfers on the teeth facing the pump housing.

We install the oil pump in the reverse order of removal, replacing the gasket between the pump and the cylinder block with a new one.

Source

Removing and disassembling the engine oil pump

Removing and disassembling the oil pump of the VAZ-21114 Lada Kalina engine

Remove the crankshaft position sensor (see “Removing the crankshaft position sensor”). Remove the generator drive pulley (see “Checking the condition and replacing the timing belt”). We remove the oil pan (see “Replacing the oil pan gasket”) and the oil receiver (see “Removing the oil receiver”).

Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the six bolts securing the oil pump to the cylinder block.

Using a screwdriver, pry the pump housing by the tides.

Remove the oil pump seal. We clamp the pump in a vice with soft metal jaws.

Using an 8mm hexagon, unscrew the pressure reducing valve plug (sealed with an aluminum ring).

We remove the spring and piston of the pressure reducing valve.

Use a hexagon to “5” to unscrew the six screws securing the cover to the pump body.

Remove the pump cover and remove the driven and drive gears. We wash the oil pump parts and check their technical condition - the diameter of the socket for the driven gear, the width of the segment on the body, the axial clearances of the gears (see “Description of design”). We assemble the pump in the reverse order, having previously lubricated the gears, the housing in the gear area and the pressure reducing valve piston with engine oil. We install the gears with chamfers on the tops of the teeth inside the pump housing.

Before installation, clean the mating surfaces of the pump housing and cylinder block from remnants of the old gasket, dirt and oil. Install the oil pump with a new gasket in the reverse order. When installing the pump, align the flats on the crankshaft with the protrusions in the hole of the pump drive gear.

Video on the topic “Lada Kalina. Removing and disassembling the engine oil pump"

Removing the oil pump on a VAZ 2108-15 Oil pump VAZ, INSTALLATION, Oil pump VAZ, INSTALLATION.
How I got into the VAZ oil pump Source

Buy a fuel pump for VAZ (LADA) KALINA sedan (1118)

Purpose

A fuel pump is needed to pump gasoline or diesel fuel from the gas tank to the engine.

Alternative name: fuel pump, gasoline pump.

Signs of failure of the fuel pump VAZ KALINA sedan (1118)

You should not be surprised that this spare part or its individual components systematically break down. The fuel pump is a part that is constantly in operating mode. Here are some symptoms of a poorly functioning fuel pump.

low engine power, which will definitely be felt by a driver who knows his car
problematic engine starting
high-pitched sound of a running engine

There are plenty of signs and causes of failure. All the symptoms listed above may indicate other problems with the car. Therefore, do not try to self-medicate, but contact a good car service station. Replacing a fuel pump is a responsible undertaking. And repairing fuel pumps - even more so. Therefore, if you have never installed a fuel pump, do not take risks.

Where to buy a fuel pump for VAZ KALINA sedan (1118)?

The pump is the main component of the fuel system and its quality cannot be neglected. Fuel pumps can be purchased at almost any city market. But is it necessary to make a purchase this way? City markets and small shops are where you can often find counterfeit products.

The AutoTO electronic catalog offers a fuel pump for VAZ (LADA) KALINA sedan (1118) from the best manufacturers of electronics for cars. All products are tested for safety and certified. Here you can purchase fuel pump parts such as fuel pump check valve or fuel pump relay.

Where to buy a fuel pump for a VAZ (LADA) KALINA sedan (1118) with delivery?

To order, just leave a request and wait for a call from our specialist or dial one of the numbers listed on the website.

All components presented on the AutoTO store website can be ordered with delivery to all regions of Ukraine. Delivery of spare parts is carried out by the most reputable courier services in Ukraine.

Checking pressure with a pressure gauge

Screwing in a mechanical pressure gauge instead of the oil pressure sensor is the only reliable way to check the oil pump without removing it from the engine. You can buy a ready-made kit for measuring pressure in the oil system or assemble the device yourself. For this you will need:

liquid mechanical pressure gauge. The device can be easily found in almost every auto parts store for domestic equipment and tractors. Any industrial pressure gauge with an adequate measuring scale will also work;
an adapter that will be screwed in instead of the standard oil pressure sensor. The mating part must have a fitting for a hose or a thread with a landing cone for screwing in a flexible tube. Any turner can turn such an adapter. You will need to measure the diameter of the mounting hole, the thread pitch and make a sketch of the adapter. An alternative option is to bring a standard oil pressure sensor to a turner so that he can make an adapter in its likeness. Some drivers, in order to check the oil pump, drill out the insides of the old oil pressure sensor and use improvised means to make an adapter from it. It is much easier in this regard for owners of VAZ cars, for which ready-made tees are available for sale. You can simultaneously screw in both a standard pressure sensor and a mechanical pressure gauge;
a piece of hose that will connect the pressure gauge and adapter.

The diameter of the hose and the type of connection of the flexible tube should be selected taking into account the type of outlet fitting on the pressure gauge. It is important that during the measurement process there are no oil leaks at the joints.

Measuring technique

The method for checking oil pressure will be identical for all cars. The only difference is the threshold minimum value, upon reaching which the low oil pressure warning lamp lights up on the dashboard. Information about the response threshold of the pressure relief valve and the minimum operating pressure in the engine lubrication system can be found in the repair and maintenance manual for your vehicle. The data below is relevant for VAZ classic models (2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107).

Cold pressure. Before starting, the engine and oil in the sump must cool to ambient temperature. The response threshold of the emergency oil pressure sensor is 0.33 kgf/cm2. With this value, the engine must be turned off and disassembled to troubleshoot the oil pump. When the speed increases, the pressure gauge needle should rise to 4.5 kgf/cm2. At this pressure, a serviceable pressure relief valve is activated, so no further increase should occur.
Measurements on a warm engine. As the oil temperature decreases, its viscosity increases, which has a positive effect on the performance of the oil pump. Therefore, it is best to check the oil pump when it is hot. Since the oil warms up more slowly than antifreeze, let the engine run for another 5 minutes after the coolant temperature gauge shows 90°C.

In the lubrication system of a serviceable VAZ 2101-07 engine at 5600 rpm there should be a pressure of 3.5-4.5 kgf/cm2. If the obtained values differ significantly from the nominal values, the engine will experience oil starvation in certain modes. The low oil pressure light on the instrument panel will come on. In this case, we recommend disassembling and checking the oil pump.

You should not rely on the standard pressure indicators of VAZ and UAZ cars. In 90 out of 100 cases they show anything but the actual oil pressure in the engine.

Malfunctions in the operation of the pressure reducing valve

The structure of the pressure reducing valve is quite simple, which ensures its reliability and reduces the likelihood of breakdown. However, sometimes this still happens. Most often this is due to wear and tear of the mechanism, so do not forget to regularly diagnose all components of the car, as well as promptly replace outdated parts.

There are two main types of mechanism failure.

The valve creates insufficient pressure. Usually the cause of this problem lies in the spring. With prolonged use, it becomes less elastic and stretches. As a result, the valve remains slightly open all the time. Due to this, the pressure decreases, and the oil does not reach some engine components. Sometimes it happens that unprofessional craftsmen install a spring with insufficient elasticity during repairs. This has the same effect.
Excessive pressure builds up in the valve. As a rule, the cause of this breakdown is the entry of debris into the mechanism or the use of old viscous oil.

How to determine that the pressure relief valve is broken?

It is impossible to determine at first glance that the valve is broken. It is necessary to carefully inspect other elements of the system and exclude the possibility of damage to other parts of the oil pump. In order to understand that there are malfunctions in it, you should look at the dashboard. Most car models have a sensor located there that indicates problems in the system. It is a warning light with a pictogram that lights up at high speeds.

If this happens, you should stop the car immediately, as further movement may lead to permanent engine damage. Turn it off and get out of the car. Next, you will need to take the following steps.

Wear protective gloves. At the moment, the engine compartment of the car is hot, so you can easily get burned.
There is no point in checking the oil level if you have just stopped. It will take time before it drains into the crankcase. At this time, you need to inspect the engine: look for fresh oil leaks or damage to the crankcase.
If the problem is a broken crankcase, you will need to seal it. This can be done using available materials: an ordinary rag, a piece of rubber and even tape.
Inspect the oil filter. Damage to its gasket can also cause a breakdown.
If the above items are in order, you should check the oil level. This is done with a special probe with o and “maximum”. Ideally, the oil level should be between them. If there is a lack of lubricant, simply add it.

All further actions are carried out on the valve removed from the pumping system. Examine it carefully. Often the cause of breakdown is clogging of the mechanism. This usually happens to drivers who are too lazy to change the oil. Dirt accumulates on the surface of the valve or spring, which prevents normal operation. If you have recently carried out a major overhaul of your car, then there is a risk that the valve was not properly washed and there are particles of chips and other debris left in it.

There is an unusual way to check the functionality of this element. Take a small piece of cotton (or other breathable) fabric and place it on the fitting that is parallel to the lid. Now you need to take a sharp breath through the material. If you feel strong resistance, it means that the valve is working as it should: it blocks the air flow and passes it through a special hole. A working mechanism should not be easily blown through.

Table: diagnosis of low pressure in the oil pump, causes and remedy

Guide to diagnosing hypotension
Malfunction	Cause	Remedy
low oil pressure in the lower engine speed range; increased oil pressure at crankshaft speeds above 2 thousand rpm.	due to contamination, the pressure regulator valve is stuck open; The safety valve does not open due to contamination.	remove and check the valve; remove the valve and check.
Low oil pressure throughout the entire engine speed range	There is too little oil in the engine. The oil intake screen is dirty, the oil intake tube is broken	Add oil to the engine. Remove the oil sump, clean the mesh, if necessary, replace the tube.
Worn oil pump	Remove, check, replace if necessary
Engine bearing wear	Repair the engine

Removal from engine for disassembly

The video demonstrates the process of checking the VAZ 2104 oil pump. But measuring the gap between the housing and the gears, assessing the output of the drive and driven gears, the oil pump housing cover and many other subtleties are relevant for all types of oil pumps. Before disassembling, we recommend studying the structure and operating principle of the oil pump.

For a preliminary check, remove the distributor and remove the oil pump drive gear. If you find deep scuffs on the axle, you will most likely encounter knocked-down splines. Wedging of the drive gear is extremely dangerous, as the splines can be licked off. The consequence of a breakdown will be oil starvation, which for the engine ends at least with the crankshaft liners turned. You can also visually assess the play of the oil pump rod. On a working pump, the gap between the rod and housing pair should not exceed 0.1 mm.

The oil pump on classic VAZ cars is unscrewed from the crankcase. Therefore, to check, you will have to drain the oil and remove the pan, having first loosened the engine mounts (the engine needs to be raised a little).

To fully check the oil pump, arm yourself with a set of dipsticks. Don’t just try to judge by eye the production of parts with pretentious fitting requirements.

Troubleshooting

Unscrew the oil receiver cap with pressure reducing valve. Be careful not to lose the original spring thrust washer. Also note that one of the bolts will be shorter. Therefore, be sure to remember the location of its seat.
Using a caliper, measure the length of the spring at rest (should be at least 38 mm).
Remove the cover on which you can remove the wear marks left by the gears. Deep scoring is a clear sign that the oil pump is worn out. Repairing the cover involves leveling the mating plane.
Remove the oil pump drive gear from the housing. Check the condition of the teeth and shaft. Scratches and abrasions indicate wear. In the driven gear, additionally evaluate the condition of the fixation axis hole.
Check the walls of the oil pump housing and the driven gear axis. Furrows and potholes indicate that debris has entered the work area.

Clearance tolerances

The gap between the housing plane and the gears. To measure, apply a caliper and insert a suitable feeler gauge into the gap formed. The norm is 0.066-0.161 mm. A gap of 0.2 mm is considered critical.
Gap between gear teeth. At extreme wear, the gap is 0.25 mm. If you get values of no more than 0.15 mm, the gears are still in good condition.
Read also: VAZ 2114: the interior light does not come on - 3 reasons and ways to fix the problem
The gap between the walls of the working area of the oil pump housing and the gears should not exceed 0.25 mm; A range of 0.11-0.18 mm is considered normal.
The optimal gap between the hole in the housing and the gear shaft is 0.016-0.055 mm. When checking the VAZ oil pump without removing it from the engine, we said that the play should not be more than 0.1 mm. As for the gap between the axle and the driven gear, it should be in the range of 0.017-0.057 mm; critical limit – 0.1 mm.

The entire troubleshooting process is clearly shown in the video.

A mandatory attribute of the lubrication system of any internal combustion engine is the oil pump pressure reducing valve (OPRN). Many car enthusiasts have no idea about such a part, although its role in ensuring the performance of the engine is very great. It is also worth understanding the structure, operation and malfunctions of this unit because its analogues are present in any systems where compressed liquids or gases are used as a working medium.

Purpose of the oil pump pressure reducing valve

As is known, lubrication of the rubbing surfaces of engine sliding bearings (main, connecting rod, piston pins, bearings, etc.) occurs with a constant supply of engine oil under pressure.

If the pressure is not enough, then wear, overheating and failure of the working parts occur, and if the pressure exceeds the norm, then the motor can suffer serious damage. To avoid this, a pressure reducing valve comes into play.

One interpretation of the term “reduction” is the reduction or weakening of something. In mechanical engineering, a valve is called a pressure-reducing valve when, at a certain peak moment (increasing to the maximum pressure, oil, water, air, gas, etc.) it opens the passage and helps normalize the pressure of the working medium. Thus, the valve mechanism is designed to protect against damage due to excessive increase oil pressure.

Valve device

The oil pump pressure reducing valve has a very simple design.

The main parts are:

housing with a channel system;
a valve (ball or small piston) that closes the bypass channel;
spring;
stop screw or bolt.

It is easy to understand the principle of operation of the design. The thrust screw creates pressure on one end of the spring, which, by the compression force of the spiral, presses the valve to the socket, which has a through hole in the channel. As soon as the pressure in the channel increases enough to overcome the resistance of the spring, the valve lowers and the oil flows. When the pressure normalizes, the spring returns the valve to its original position, closing the gap.

There are two types of RKMN according to the housing design:

the entire valve mechanism is completely removed from the oil pump;
the valve is built into the oil pump housing.

Valve malfunctions and solutions

There are two types of malfunctions in the operation of the oil pump pressure reducing valve:

the valve does not maintain pressure at the required level;
the valve does not open when the maximum value is reached.

In the first case, we can only talk about the fact that the spring creates weak pressure. This phenomenon is extremely rare, but if the engine fails to maintain oil pressure, do not forget about the valve. The spring may not cope with the work for various reasons: wear, incorrect selection, installation of a spring that is too soft or defective.

More often, clogging of the lumen or jamming of the valve occurs. This happens when the oil has not been changed for too long, and dirt particles gradually coke on the surfaces. If the engine oil channels are poorly flushed after a major overhaul, chips and debris may collect in them, which can also jam the valve.

“Treatment” of any valve breakdowns consists of disassembling, diagnosing, cleaning the channels and replacing failed elements. Experts strongly recommend replacing the oil pump and the safety valve along with it after each engine overhaul.

The oil pump plays a vital role in the engine lubrication system of any car. Even short-term operation of a car with a faulty pump will lead to failure of the power unit. Therefore, any car owner should know the main signs of oil pump failure and take appropriate measures in a timely manner.

The most common failures of the pressure reducing valve

As operating experience shows, a malfunction of the pressure reducing valve can manifest itself in the following:

1. Inability to maintain normal blood pressure. As a rule, this is caused by mechanical failures of the unit. The weakest element of the system is the spring.

During operation, it can stretch and open the valve even with a slight increase in pressure. As a result, oil does not reach many engine components, they wear out and fail.

The reasons for a spring malfunction are its wear due to long-term operation, installation of the wrong spring during a major overhaul (defective or excessively soft), and installation errors.

2. Problems with opening the valve when peak pressure is reached. During operation, the valve lumen may become clogged. As a result, the RKMN jams and does not open even at high pressure.

The result is the destruction of many important engine components and the need for major repairs. The main cause of the malfunction is untimely oil change.

It's easy to explain. Dirt particles are deposited on the surface and constantly increase the size of the growth. Poor flushing quality leads to the accumulation of various debris and chips in the channels.

What you need to know about DDM?

A modern car has a large amount of electronics installed, based on the readings of which the electronic control unit issues the appropriate commands. One such device is the oil pressure sensor (OPS).

Appearance of DDM

Purpose and location

The purpose of the DDM is to monitor the oil level in the power unit; as soon as the amount of lubricant drops below the permissible level, the corresponding indicator light lights up on the instrument panel.

Device operation diagram

The operating principle can be described as follows. Lubricant is supplied to all components of the system under pressure. The system includes a DDM, inside of which there is a membrane indicated by arrow 4. If the pressure is low, then the membrane is not deformed, the contacts numbered 3 are closed and the lamp indicated by arrow 2 is on.

When the engine starts, the pressure increases, the membrane is deformed and acts on the pusher that is installed on it. In this case, the contacts open and the light goes out.

The DDM is located on the cylinder head on the right, when viewed in the direction of travel, on the back side of the engine. It receives power through a wire with a plastic terminal, which makes it easy to detect.

Device location

Diagnostic features

If the indicator on the dashboard is constantly on, you should first check the oil level using a dipstick and the condition of the oil filter. It is also necessary to check for oil stains on the power unit housing. If the level is normal, you should check the device itself. The simplest test option is to install a known-good device instead of the device being tested.

You don’t have to buy a new one, you can ask your neighbor in the garage. True, the sensor should be exactly the same. If, after installing a working device, the indicator stops lighting, then the removed one is faulty.

In addition, using a multimeter, the power supply to the device is checked to see if there is an open circuit. If you have a pressure gauge, you can check the oil pressure. To check, you need to screw the pressure gauge into the DDM seat and start the engine. At idle, the pressure value should be above 0.65 kgf/cm2.

If you don't have a pressure gauge, there is another way to check. To do this, the sensor is unscrewed, and then the starter is cranked without starting the engine. If, when the starter rotates, oil splashes from the seat of the removed device, we can conclude that the device is faulty.

LADA Kalina installation

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Sources

https://remontysvoimirukami.ru/remont-rulevoj-rejki-svoimi-rukami/remont-rulevoj-rejki-kalina-rukami-foto.html
https://avtovazlada.ru/index.php?page=7690

How to connect an additional pump on the Lada Kalina

Most modern cars have two water pumps installed at once. This ensures the highest quality engine cooling in any operating conditions. You can also install a second (additional) pump on the Lada Kalina, and this work takes a little time and effort. The most difficult thing is to get to the place where the pump is fixed, since you will have to disassemble many engine compartment parts.

In order to install the second pump on the Kalina, you will need:

new pump;
hoses of different lengths;
fasteners (depending on where exactly it will be easier and more convenient to screw the pump);
sealant.

The essence of the work is to organize a small circle of coolant circulation throughout the system.

Doing the work yourself

The first step is to assemble the assembly itself from the materials that are at hand. The pump is connected to two hoses (the short one will provide fluid removal, and the long one will provide supply). The hoses are attached to the two ends of the pump with clamps. Then follow the following procedure:

The coolant will need to be drained. You can simply empty the expansion tank without draining the entire volume of antifreeze.
Near the bottom of the car, find two hoses (one leads the antifreeze to the stove, and the other takes it away from it). Disconnect the outlet hose and instead attach the assembled structure with an additional pump.
After this, attach the pump to the gearbox housing. Depending on the availability of fasteners, you can place the device on brackets or secure the pump with metal clamps.

In this case, the hoses are connected with clamps, and the pump itself is mounted on a metal bracket

At the end of the work, you will need to plug all hoses and plugs and fill in new antifreeze.

Video: second pump - preparation and installation

Thus, on Lada Kalina cars, the owner can independently change the water pump without resorting to the help of service station specialists. This will save money and also allow you to independently control the operation of the pump, taking into account the knowledge about the state of the machine system that was obtained during operation.

Why does the breakdown occur?

Most often it all starts with a late oil change. For this reason, solid deposits appear in the engine, which over time fall off the walls and, when entering the pump, destroy it.

And it doesn’t matter what kind of filter you have, because any filter is after the pump

All this leads to a decrease in oil pressure, which subsequently leads to wear of other parts. And then the likelihood that replacing one pump can be done is very small

Therefore, it is very important to monitor the oil level and change the oil pump on time!

As follows from the purpose, improper operation of the oil pump leads to the fact that the oil does not circulate sufficiently throughout all engine systems. If the pump is not replaced in a timely manner, this leads to the so-called “oil starvation”. The consequences of this phenomenon are different and can be very dangerous. So, insufficient oil leads to:

• Excessive wear of units and components; • Penetration of mechanical wear products into the oil; • Reduced oil pressure in the system; • Overheating of parts; • Ingress of solid particles into various units and their jamming.

Exhaust system "Lada Kalina"

After processing the air-fuel mixture, residual substances must be released from the engine cavity. An exhaust system is used for these purposes. Without it, operating any car is simply impossible.

The exhaust system of the Lada Kalina car consists of several elements:

an exhaust manifold;
exhaust pipe;
main muffler;
additional;
catalytic converter.

All parts of the exhaust system not only allow you to safely and quickly remove exhaust gases from the engine, but also reduce noise levels. And the neutralizer serves to reduce carbon monoxide emissions, that is, it reduces the toxicity of exhaust on the Lada Kalina.

It should be noted that the mufflers for Lada Kalina sedans, hatchbacks and station wagons will be slightly different. Thus, the device labeling must fully comply with the VAZ labeling. For example, VAZ-1117 (Lada Kalina hatchback) requires model 1117, and VAZ-1118 (Lada Kalina sedan) requires muffler 1118. For the Lada Kalina station wagon modification, a device marked 1118-1200010 is installed.

DIY replacement

And so, if you have enough skills and free time, you can replace the Priora oil pump yourself, while saving money. To do this you will need a tool such as:

• Set of wrenches; • Set of heads; • Tools necessary for measuring gaps; • flat screwdriver.

If all the necessary parts and tools are prepared, you can begin replacing the oil pump:

1. First of all, disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery; 2. Then drain the engine oil; 3. Then you need to remove the timing belt from the timing drive; 4. Disconnect the connector from the crankshaft position sensor; 5. Using screwdrivers, remove the pulley from it and remove the key from the groove; 6. After which you need to remove the oil sump; 7. Then, using a key of eight, turn the bolts of the oil receiver and remove it; 8. Remove 6 bolts from the oil pump to the cylinder block, use a screwdriver to move it, and remove the oil pump from the VAZ 2170 Priora; 9. Clean the cylinder block and pump housing from the old gasket; 10. Before replacing, fill the cavity of the oil pump with lubricant for better suction of oil from the crankcase during startup; 11. Install the oil pump and all the removed parts on the Lada Priora VAZ 2170 car, also in the reverse order; 12. And upon completion, adjust the tension of the timing belt and generator drive, after which you can fill the engine with oil.

What to do if the low oil light comes on

The first thing to do in this case is to stop and turn off the engine. After this, you should visually inspect all important components and assemblies in order to find the cause of the malfunction.

In this case, you must proceed as follows:

measure the oil level with a dipstick and, if necessary, add it;
inspect the most likely places for oil leaks - the pan, the top cover, the oil filter, as well as the engine itself near the gearbox and near the drive pulleys of auxiliary mechanisms;
check the condition of the electrical circuit of the oil sensor (if you have a tester, then make a “continuity test”).

Oil filter VAZ 2114

If no serious damage is found during the inspection, and the oil is filled above the minimum mark, then you can continue driving.

It should be remembered that the oil should be filled with the same class as that already poured into the system. You should absolutely not mix oils intended for use in different seasons.

It is also worth noting that upon arriving home or at the final point of the route, you should try to find out the cause of the drop in pressure as quickly as possible (for example, visit a car service station if it is not possible to carry out a full diagnosis yourself). At the same time, while driving, it is worth making frequent stops, during which you should inspect the engine for leaks and check the oil level (and, if necessary, replenish it).

What compression should be on a Chevrolet Niva

Hi all! I encountered the following problem: when measuring compression, the compression meter does not show any values. In this case, the starter turns without stopping until you release the key. Could it be a problem with the sensors? The engine has been partially disassembled (the accessory belt has been removed, the radiator and cooling system have been removed). Or has the kirdyk head come?

I was present on an interesting occasion when a broken head gasket was being replaced on a shnivy. And after assembly it does not start, there is no compression. It turns out that before assembly it was necessary to remove the oil from the hydraulics and compress them until they stop. Otherwise there will be no compression.

Did you remove the camshaft?

I removed the camshaft, but as it turned out I had simple adjusting bolts and there were no hydraulic compensators. When I changed the oil scraper, it started up without any problems.

I didn't set the labels correctly.

Yes, I bent the valves, how much you can harp on the same thing. Take off the head, install new valves, grind them in. Business day.

Doesn't it show in any cylinder? Prehistory - why did you start measuring compression? Not a single sensor affects the compression... By ear - when cranking the engine, if there is a “squeak” sound from the cylinders quite loudly, then there is compression, the compression gauge turns out to be broken. The day before yesterday we picked up a new one at the store, it seems 5.5 maximum, I checked with mine, it seems 12.5 on the 21083 engine, it happens.

There are no sprays, but the air is spitting out. The backstory is scary. I changed the chain, put it on the wrong marks, spun it - it didn’t start. Now I have assembled it according to the marks and am checking to see if the valves are bent. The compression gauge is working, I checked it on 2 cars. Maybe the battery is dead?

Then most likely the valves are bad. Even on the podskvshim there will be compression

You can check the valves like this: put the hose to the cylinder (from where you unscrewed the spark plug) and blow, if it blows easily or hisses from another cylinder, it means the valves...

Features of valve operation

In general, having delved into the principle of operation of this mechanism, you can find that it is quite simple. So, the main element that reacts to what is happening in the oil line is a special thrust bolt. This bolt, under the influence of the external environment, presses on the spring, which already presses or releases the valve in relation to the cross-section of the passage. If the oil pressure in the system begins to increase and, at the same time, exceeds the permissible maximum pressure level, then the oil will overcome the resistance of the regulator (simply springs) and squeeze it into the seat. In this way, the pressure indicator will stabilize, the spring will return to its normal position, and the car engine will be able to continue to function normally. Technically, the valve structure is as follows:

A relatively small body, inside of which a special system of channels is machined. Oil moves through them.
The spring, rod and body of the regulator lower and increase oil pressure.

It should definitely be said about how simple the design of this valve is - all functions are performed by elementary actions. Due to the elementary nature of the components, a high level of reliability is ensured.

It should also be noted that the pressure regulator can technically be designed in two versions. The first involves placing the housing inside the pump, without separating the two devices. The second option is that the valve has its own separate body and is located somewhere along the oil line. Considering the conditions under which the valve has to operate, it is not surprising that breakdowns also occur from time to time.

This point should also be given attention