Removing and installing the fuel pump module (for use on the Lada Kalina model)

The engine fuel system is a “blood” network. The main element of this system is the fuel pump, which, like a heart, pumps gasoline from the gas tank to the engine. If for some reason this pump stops working, then it is no longer possible to start the engine. Let's look at the main reasons why the fuel pump on the Lada Kalina/Granta/Priora does not work.

Checking the fuel pump Lada Kalina/Granta

If after turning the ignition key there is no buzzing sound from the fuel pump, then the first thing to check is the fuel pump fuse and relay. In the Lada Kalina and Lada Granta mounting block, the fuel pump fuse is F21 (15A), and the fuel pump relay is K12. If the fuse is good, do the following:

1. Turn on the ignition
2. Remove the fuel pump relay
3. Apply +12V to pin No. 11 of the diagnostic block, or place a jumper between 87 and 30 relay pins
4. Check by ear that the fuel pump is turned on

If the fuel pump does not turn off, then check:

1. Wiring and contacts between the fuel pump and the diagnostic block/fuel pump relay. To do this, check the voltage at the fuel pump chip using a test lamp or multimeter.
2. There is no connection between the fuel pump and the vehicle ground. Apply the mixture to the fuel pump (located under the rear seat).
3. The fuel pump is faulty. To check it, apply +12V directly to the contacts of the fuel pump (Attention! Remaining gasoline may ignite from a spark!).

In rare cases, the fuel pump does not work due to:

1. ECU (controller) malfunction
2. alarm malfunctions

How to choose

If you are in doubt which fuel pump is suitable for your car, then purchase the same one that is installed in yours. When purchasing a pump from another manufacturer, be sure to pay attention to the fastenings. The fact is that if selected incorrectly during replacement, they may simply not fit. In addition, you need to pay attention to the discharge pipe. It can be either straight or curved. The new fuel pump should be exactly the same as the old one. Otherwise, the rubber hose will not work, because other parts of your car will interfere with it.

ADVICE! After replacing the fuel pump, connect the car battery and start it for a while. Check if fuel is leaking from the connections.

If everything is fine, and no problems or defects are found, then close the lid and put the rear seat back in place. If you notice that the gaskets are worn out, they need to be replaced.

Modern passenger cars are equipped with electric vibration pumps. Unlike mechanical predecessors, installed near the engine, the new units are immersed inside the gasoline tank, where direct access is limited. In order to independently solve problems associated with interruptions in the fuel supply, you need to be able to distinguish the signs of a fuel pump malfunction from problems with other elements of the fuel system.

Checking the fuel pump Lada Priora

On the Lada Priora, the fuel pump relay and its fuse are located in an additional mounting block near the left foot of the front passenger. The fuse is marked F3 (15A), and the relay is K2.

First of all, we check the fuel pump fuse, and if necessary, replace it with a similar new one. We check the wiring and the fuel pump itself in the same way as on Lada Kalina and Lada Granta cars (see above).

As a reminder, don't forget to change your fuel filter regularly.

Schematic electrical diagrams, connecting devices and pinouts of connectors

The fuel pump on a car is designed to supply fuel to the combustion chamber. Its operation is controlled using a relay. On a VAZ (depending on the model), the fuel supply unit can be electrical or mechanical - it all depends on the fuel supply system. On a fuel-injected car, the fuel pump is located in the tank. When the ignition is turned on, voltage is supplied to the terminals of the unit and it begins to pump fuel. If the required pressure is created in the system, the relay automatically turns off the fuel pump - the engine is ready to start.

When the ignition is turned on, the relay creates pressure in the fuel lines by turning on the fuel pump (BN) for a couple of seconds. After this, the BN will work either when the engine is cranked by the starter, or when the engine is running.

Sometimes this system needs repairs - there is nothing complicated here, and the editors of the 2Skhema.ru website will tell you how to do it yourself. Let's start with the BN pinout, then we will indicate it on the diagrams and at the end there will be instructions for replacing the fuel supply elements.

Symptoms of malfunction

Now let's move on to the main thing - symptoms that may indicate a breakdown of the fuel pump in your car.

1. Loss of power

One of the first and main symptoms of a fuel pump's impending demise is a partial loss of power. The car stops responding adequately to the accelerator pedal, twitches, loses speed, and suddenly begins to slow down. This is a direct consequence of insufficient fuel pressure in the rail. The pump may still work, but not develop the required pressure - its power is not enough, especially when driving uphill and at high crankshaft speeds.

2. Engine trimming, vibrations, unstable speed

In the same cases, trimming and strong vibrations of the motor may be observed. The revolutions begin to fluctuate due to fuel shortage. This may be due to broken electrical contacts or worn components of the pump itself. In this case, the malfunction is often “floating” in nature.

3. Changing the tone of the motor

Typically, this symptom is observed when the engine is warming up: the engine changes its sound from time to time, and then the sound returns to normal. At the same time, no tripping or interruptions in operation are noticeable. This is the early stage of impending disaster.

4. Noise or hum from the gas tank

In particularly advanced cases, the fuel pump will remind you of itself with unpleasant sounds - squeaks, squeaks and even a hum. All of them indicate serious troubles and severe mechanical wear of the pump elements, or severe contamination of the filter mesh. This malfunction occurs especially often on cars converted to gas: the gas pump always works on them, regardless of the fuel used - it simply pumps gasoline through itself and returns it back to the tank.

5. Uncertain launch

Well, the last, most alarming symptom is an uncertain start of the engine. This is an extreme stage that requires immediate intervention from specialists. When trying to start the engine, you have to turn the crankshaft with the starter for a long time before the pump pumps fuel. The car starts equally poorly with a cold or hot engine.

Regularly pay attention to the pressure level in your fuel pump, and also check the fuel system for fluid leaks. To do this, you will need to purchase an indicator (this can be done at the car market or at an auto parts store).

Pinout of fuel pump VAZ 2107

1 – radiator fan drive motor; 2 – mounting block block; 3 — idle speed sensor; 4 – engine ECU; 5 – potentiometer; 6 – set of spark plugs; 7 – ignition control unit; 8 – electronic crankshaft position sensor; 9 – electric fuel pump; 10 – indicator of the number of revolutions; 11 – lamp for monitoring the health of electronic systems and the brake system; 12 – ignition system control relay; 13 – speedometer sensor; 14 – special factory connector for reading errors using the BC; 15 – injector harness; 16 – adsorber solenoid valve; 17, 18, 19,20 – fuse box for repairing the mounting block that protects the injection system circuits; 21 – electronic fuel pump control relay; 22 – electronic relay for controlling the exhaust manifold heating system; 23 – exhaust manifold heating system; 24 – fuse protecting the heater circuit; 25 – electronic air sensor; 26 – coolant temperature control sensor; 27 – electronic air damper sensor; 28 – air temperature sensor; 29 – pressure control sensor and low oil pressure lamp.

You can check the fuel pump on a VAZ 2107 simply by checking the voltage at its connection block with a tester. The presence of voltage will indicate a malfunction of the electric motor. Instead of a tester (multimeter), you can use a test lamp to diagnose a malfunction.

In the absence of one, this can be done by disconnecting the connection block for the fuel pump and fuel level control and applying voltage with wires from the battery to the place where the gray wire is connected +12 and to the place where the black wire is connected - minus. A humming pump will indicate a faulty fuse, power circuit or ECU.

Fuel pump installation location

In cars with an injection engine, the fuel pump is located inside the gas tank, and in the case of a carburetor engine, it is under the hood or near the gas tank. Some models have two fuel pumps installed at once: one at the gas tank, and the other at the engine. The exact location of the pump in your car can be found in the service book or owner's manual.

Table: location of the fuel pump in various cars

Pinout BN VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099

The fuel pump activation relay (2) is shown by an arrow.

1 — nozzles; 2 — spark plugs; 3 — ignition module; 4 — diagnostic block; 5 - controller; 6 — block connected to the instrument panel harness; 7 - main relay; 8 - main relay fuse; 9 — electric fan relay; 10 — controller power supply fuse; 11- electric fuel pump relay; 12 — fuel pump power circuit fuse; 13 — mass air flow sensor; 14 — throttle position sensor; 15 — coolant temperature sensor; 16 — idle speed regulator; 17 — knock sensor; 18 — crankshaft position sensor; 19- oxygen sensor; 20- APS control unit; 21 — APS status indicator; 22 — speed sensor; 23 — electric fuel pump with fuel level sensor; 24 — solenoid valve for purge of the adsorber; 25 — block connected to the ignition system harness; 26 — instrument cluster; 27 — ignition relay; 28 — ignition switch; 29 — mounting block; 30 — electric fan of the cooling system;

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Comments 17

Congratulations! You bought an excellent original UTES module (an old model, it says “UTES” in big letters, I had exactly the same one in my car from the factory, only 21101-1139009, manufactured in 2008), with an ORIGINAL Bosch pump 0 580 454 035 ( Now there are a lot of fakes)! Today I had a hard time finding and buying the original “UTES” module 21101-1139009 in Kharkov

There is the same one for Kalina:

I looked for it all over Ukraine, in Kyiv I went around the entire car market, called all the companies, then I started calling different offices in Kharkov, Dnepr and Zaporozhye - there is no original UTOS anywhere at the moment. Complete fakes under the guise of UTYOS or Chinese bullshit. The best thing that can be found now under the guise of UTOS is ATK (Avtotekhprom), but I was looking for the original UTOS in original packaging.

I accidentally came across the Losk104 website and there I bought exactly what I was persistently looking for!

Regarding DUT, Kalina is equipped with DUT-K, DUT-17 and DUT-10.

I can’t tell you which one for which tank. Like DUT-K of the “universal” type. I have a VAZ 21093 (2009) with a 1.6 Kalino engine, my module 21101-1139009 has a DUT-K2 sensor, it is completely interchangeable with DUT-11, there is no difference.

Dnepr auto dealers are still the same. They are purchased from Ukravtovaz (they recently opened their online store) shop.ladaukraine.com/ Now the fuel pump modules come from the DCK assembly line (the same was in my car)

Yes, in DneprAuto the prices are great, I just gave their links as an example, it’s easy to search on their website, it’s easy to look at the photo.

PS In UkrAvtoVAZ I see that the prices are also crap... A module like ours, only with a metal cover (for 1.5 engines) costs 2050 hryvnia shop.ladaukraine.com/prod...enzonasos/21101113900900/

You can buy it in Kharkov. where I bought mine for 1235 hryvnia

PS In DSK the inserts seem to be not Bosch ones, but Czech “Aisans” 3J, they seem to be worse than Bosch ones

You need to find out the price there, it differs. For example, Kalinovsky steering tips are indicated on the website for 430 UAH, but I paid 413 in fact

Yes, in DneprAuto the prices are great, I just gave their links as an example, it’s easy to search on their website, it’s easy to look at the photo.

PS In UkrAvtoVAZ I see that the prices are also crap... A module like ours, only with a metal cover (for 1.5 engines) costs 2050 hryvnia shop.ladaukraine.com/prod...enzonasos/21101113900900/

You can buy it in Kharkov. where I bought mine for 1235 hryvnia

PS In DSK the inserts seem to be not Bosch ones, but Czech “Aisans” 3J, they seem to be worse than Bosch ones

In my factory there was a 1 in 1 Bosch, the same as in Utes, but after so many years they could have changed the supplier.

Well, from the factory, our cars should be equipped with such Utes, with Bosch inserts and precisely with the number 0 580 454 035, or SEPO modules (they also come inside with the same Bosch ones and some other inserts from another manufacturer, like Aisan) or same DSK. Having deeply delved into this topic, studying forums and topics for a long time, I realized that there is nothing better than the UTOS module inside with the original Bosch.