For what reasons is it difficult to start the engine on a VAZ 2107: description and solution

Cars of the Russian automobile industry, which also includes the VAZ 2107, are not distinguished by their quality. When problems arise with starting the engine, it is not always possible to determine the cause at first glance, since problems are possible in different systems. However, there are main reasons why you can identify the breakdown that has occurred, which will allow you to fix the problem yourself.

• No spark or weak spark
• The starter turns - no flashes

  Video: checking the spark on a “classic”

• No fuel supply

  On the injector

• On the carburetor

  Video: why fuel does not flow from the tank on a “classic”

Specifics of the injection engine

Cars with the mentioned type of power unit came off the assembly line only in the last years of mass production of “sevens”. Engines with such an injection system are more advanced compared to carburetor engines, but at the same time they are noticeably more complex. However, the reluctance to launch here can be explained by very few factors.

The most basic reason is an empty gas tank. If there is sufficient quantity of fuel, then it should be assumed that its supply is somehow disrupted.

The second option is the absence of a spark or its insufficient strength.

It wouldn't hurt to find out what the pressure is in the fuel line. In a VAZ on which the injector is installed, too low sometimes prevents normal starting. Measurements are made with a pressure gauge, for which there is a special fitting.

If your car has an on-board computer, it will allow you to quickly determine the cause of the malfunction. So, often problems with startup lead to an error being displayed. In this case, most likely, the VAZ injector does not want to start due to the fact that the fuel is not ignited properly in the cylinders. Inspecting the spark plugs will help here. Make sure they spark.

• unscrew one together with the wire;
• apply to the mass of the car;
• turn on the ignition.

When everything is in order here, make sure that the candles are properly screwed in, dry and not dirty. If even after this the car does not want to start, then look for the reason further.

Low pressure

Why doesn't the VAZ-2107 (injector) start? Problems may be hidden in low fuel line pressure. For normal starting of an injection engine, at least 2.8 atmospheres are required. You can check this by disconnecting the supply tube from the ramp. Use a pressure gauge for this. Malfunctions with the pump may occur due to frequent overheating. But how does this happen if it is submersible? The fuel pump is killed by driving on an empty tank. If the light comes on, do not delay refilling. The cost of a pump for an injection “seven” is 3 times higher than for a carburetor.

Ignition

This unit is directly responsible for starting the engine - it activates the supply of electricity to the starter of the injection VAZ model 2107. It turns the crankshaft, the spark plugs begin to spark, and the engine starts.

A short circuit in the windings or a break may occur in the ignition module, as a result of which it ceases to perform its function. The easiest way to check it is to replace it with a working unit.

When there is no such thing on the farm, the owner of the VAZ-2107 will have to find out the reason by conducting diagnostics on his own. Here you need a multimeter set to resistance (that is, ohms).

• disconnect the ignition unit itself from all cables;
• attach one probe to the middle contact;
• place the second one on the ground.

If the coils are in good condition, the arrow will show maximum resistance. When this does not happen, the conclusion is drawn that it is the breakdown that prevents the car from starting. It is also advisable to simultaneously check whether the ignition switch is working and whether the wires included in the electrical circuit are intact, as well as the reliability of their connections.

How to repair the idle speed control

In fact, the injector does not need to be adjusted, because the intelligent on-board control system is responsible for the operation of the machine. The idle speed regulator, built into the injector, is a mechanism that opens and closes the air flow again, and the air itself passes through a channel specially equipped for this.

Unfortunately, it is difficult to determine the exact breakdown of the idle air control (IAC) based on the readings on the on-board panel - the fault signal will not light up. But what will immediately become apparent is the instability of the rotations or their complete disappearance. If there is a “Check” signal on the instrument panel of the VAZ-2107, it is quite possible that the IAC is to blame. This means that the engine is detonating, and this signal is transmitted to the control unit, which is powered by electronics.

If the VAZ carburetor does not start

Cars with this type of installation were produced until 2004. In this design, there are many more reasons that prevent the engine from starting.

The main factors due to which the VAZ does not start at all or does so unstably are:

• fuel pump failure;
• breakdowns in the carburetor itself;
• ignition failure;
• starter malfunction;
• Battery low.

In the latter case, the battery is checked with a tester. It is necessary that it shows at least 9-11.5 volts. If this is not the case, then its power will not be enough to start the starter. When everything is in order with the voltage, then examine the last node. Most likely, the breakdown lies there.

We determine serviceability visually

Is it possible to check if there is voltage to the fuel pump without a multimeter? To do this, when you turn on the ignition, you should listen carefully to its operation. When you turn the key to the third position, it should make a characteristic hum. It can be heard in the rear of the cabin. If it is not there and the VAZ-2107 (injector) does not start, the problem is in the voltage supply. It's worth checking the pump relay. It should make characteristic clicks. Experienced motorists carry spare relays and fuses with them in case of sudden breakdowns. This relay is located on the shelf under the glove compartment.

Carburetor

Its malfunction is a common reason explaining why the car does not want to start.

We recommend inspecting the carburetor immediately after it is determined that everything is in order with the gasoline pump.

• unscrew the cap from the VAZ air filter;
• press the gas and crank the starter several times.

When all is well, gasoline will begin to flow into the intake manifold. If it is missing, it is necessary to deal with the carburetor. Usually the car does not start due to contamination of the jets. Wash them with a special solution (sold in stores).

Distributor

The VAZ-2107 uses distributor ignition. If the car does not start, you should check the condition of the contacts on the high-voltage wires. When the season changes, condensation forms on them. The distributor has five outputs.

Four of them go to the cylinder spark plugs, and one (central) goes to the ignition coil. A white coating often forms on the metal ends. Because of this, the slider will not be able to transmit impulses to the coil. By the way, it would be a good idea to check the ignition distributor itself. The part looks like this:

Ignition

If the Zhiguli does not want to start, then perhaps the problem arose in this particular system. First of all, see if there is a spark. If not, then check whether the wires going from the ignition module to the distributor, and from there to the spark plugs, are in good condition.

Next, find out whether there is any electricity at all on the module. This is done with a tester set to constant current mode. If it is missing, check the ignition switch - short-circuit the wires leading to it with a screwdriver. If there is no voltage, make sure that the fuse on the VAZ-2107 has not blown. Look for the mounting block under the hood.

When there is a spark, but the car does not want to start, take a closer look at its color - normally it is bright blue. Reddish indicates spark plug failure. It will have to be replaced.

It happens that starting is not carried out precisely when it is cold. This probably happened because the distributor failed. Make sure that there is a normal gap between the contacts of its breaker. The correct figure is 0.4 millimeters. Check the slider there - resistors are mounted on it to ensure the operation of the cylinders. Test them with a multimeter.

Sometimes the car does not want to start in winter due to an unregulated ignition. In summer there is no such problem. Set it up properly.

The last thing worth checking is the compression in the cylinder block. Due to its reduction, the engine often refuses to start when hot.

Electric pump problem

Previously, one of the main problems on the domestic “Classic” concerned the fuel pump, which constantly overheated. But in the injection “seven” it is electric and is cooled by the gasoline itself that is in the tank. If there is no electricity supplied to the element, the car simply will not start. The first thing you should pay attention to is the fuse box.

It is written on the cover which one is responsible for the fuel pump. If the fuse is blown, replace it. A 15 or 20 amp element can be used.

Why does the VAZ 2107 engine not start?

I must say, there are not so many reasons why a VAZ does not start: 2107, 2106, the model is not that important. Let's look at the main reasons why the engine won't start in this article.

In general, this problem has two directions: lack of gasoline and lack of spark. That is, fuel must enter the cylinder and it must ignite. This is a simple truth from which we must build. In addition, there are two more directions - injection and carburetor engines. We will focus on them.

VAZ 2107 carburetor does not start

1. Checking the fuel pump. To do this, it is desirable to have a fine fuel filter, which is installed under the hood. And given the quality of our gasoline, we simply can’t live without it. So, if you manually pump the pump, gasoline should circulate in the filter. If the filter is dry, then you should look for the cause in air leaks in the fuel line. This is rare, but it does happen.
2. If the VAZ 2107 engine does not start and the fuel line is intact, you need to check the fuel pump itself. To check, we remove the inlet pipe, first. Fuel should not leak from the pump. If this happens, the check valve is faulty and the pump needs to be replaced. If the fuel holds, you need to plug the inlet pipe with your finger, and then pump the pump 5-6 times. After performing such actions, a vacuum should be created in the pump. It should not reset even after a minute.
3. When the fuel pump is working properly and the fuel reaches the carburetor, you should do the following. We remove the air filter cover, and then ask an assistant to look into the intake manifold. Next, turn the starter and press the gas pedal. During such actions, fuel must be poured into the manifold. If it is not there, then the carburetor needs to be flushed.

You should definitely understand that these are not all possible reasons why gasoline does not enter the cylinders. Each case of malfunction is purely individual, so there is simply no solution to the problem for all occasions.

Now let's see why a carburetor-type VAZ engine does not start if everything is in order with the fuel system and the spark plugs are flooded. In this case, you need to pay attention to the ignition system.

1. The first thing to do is check the spark at the spark plugs. To do this, we unscrew one spark plug, insert it into the spark plug, and lean it against the ground, preferably against the engine head. Next, we ask an assistant to watch while we turn the starter ourselves. The spark should be stable and bluish in color. If it is red, then the spark plug should be replaced.
2. Next, if there is no spark, you need to look at the cable that is screwed to the bell of the box. It must be securely rolled, the contact must not be oily. Ideally, you should run a separate cable to the motor. Preferably with a cross section of at least 12-15.
3. If there is still no spark, we pull out the central high-voltage wire from the distributor cap, be sure to take it with pliers and place it on the block head with a gap of about half a millimeter, maybe a little more. Then we turn the starter and see that there is a spark. If it is, then the fault lies in the distributor. We will return to this point.
4. When there is no spark, then you need to check the ignition coil and check the voltage at contact “K” (2 wires are screwed to it. If there is no voltage, then the problem is either in the ignition switch, or in the contact group, or in the wire, or in the block fuses To check, you can duplicate the wire from pin 15 of the ignition switch.
5. Well, let's return to the distributor malfunction. First, you need to check the gap in the breaker contacts, if, of course, they exist. It should be 0.4 mm.
6. You also need to check the integrity of the resistor that is installed in the slider.
7. If everything is in order, then you need to set the ignition correctly.

This is where we’ll probably finish with the carburetor engine. Certainly. If the VAZ engine does not start, gasoline is supplied, there is a spark, the ignition is set correctly, then it would be necessary to check the compression. In a Zhiguli engine it should not be less than 11.

VAZ 2107 injector does not start

With an injection engine, everything is a little simpler and more complicated at the same time. In principle, there are again two directions: gasoline and spark. Well, compression, respectively. For starters, there is a “check engine” light that will light up if the ignition system is faulty. The error code in this case will begin with P03XX. That is, misfires in the cylinders. Of course, you must first check if there is a spark. There are several diagnostic methods that are worth paying attention to:

1. Diagnostic scanner. There is nothing complicated here. If there is an error, then everything is much simpler than when there are no errors at all. In this case, we check the part itself, and then the reasons, if it is working.
2. Ignition module. There are several methods worth trying to check, but the most reliable is to go to the store and take it with a receipt for verification. You can immediately talk about returning it if your own is in working order. Of course, not all stores will do this, but most will agree.
3. The VAZ engine does not start for one reason. This is quite common among car enthusiasts. The control unit contains two transistors, each of which is responsible for a pair of cylinders. Most often they burn out at the same time, and the spark disappears completely.

If everything is fine with the spark, you need to check the power supply to the engine. Again, unscrew the spark plugs and see if they are wet.

1. If the spark plugs are dry, then you need to see if voltage is supplied to the injectors, first. To do this, remove the connector from one, connect the tester probes to the connector and ground.
2. After you are convinced of this, you need to measure the pressure in the fuel rail.
3. Most likely this is the problem. Therefore, you need to check the fuel pump, first of all, the fuse that is responsible for it.
4. It is easier to check the fuel pump by replacing it with a known good one, as with the ignition module.

The VAZ 2107 engine does not pick up speed and does not pull

It happens that the VAZ engine does not pull. This is most often due to low pressure in the rail. The engine starts normally, also idles stable, but does not pick up speed. The thing is that in such modes the fuel pump requires increased performance, which it cannot provide.

If the VAZ engine does not run hot, then it is worth checking the air flow meter, as well as the spark plugs. The article already mentioned a red spark, but when cold, they can be normal, but under the influence of temperature they become “broken.”

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.

The VAZ family of cars, especially older generation injection engines, are famous for causing a malfunction such as tripping. Why this effect occurs and how to deal with it will be discussed in this article.

The procedure for returning the car to “life”

Let's say you find yourself in circumstances where the injection engine starts poorly or refuses to do so at all. There is no need to hesitate in such a situation - it is advisable to immediately begin resuscitation procedures. If you don’t have time to figure out the exact reason why the car doesn’t start well, then you should quickly carry out the following algorithm of actions:

1. First of all, we check the availability of gasoline and battery charge. Is there something missing? Fill it up and light it up. Let's try to start. If there is no result, proceed to the next step;
2. Next, we quickly analyze under what circumstances the car malfunctions. If it takes a long time or is difficult to start when hot, we first check the spark plugs for overheating (light carbon deposits) and the functioning of the fuel system. Otherwise, when the car malfunctions both cold and hot, a more comprehensive approach is required. As a rule, the following procedures are sufficient: checking spark plugs, wiring the ignition system, assessing the operation of the injector and fuel system;
3. Note that most motorists manage to solve the problem, so to speak, with little loss, that is, by implementing the actions described above. If you are not one of the lucky ones and your car still takes a long time, starts poorly or refuses to work at all, you will have to act globally. Here it is better to take the car to a service station or a convenient garage and check the compression, timing adjustment, clean the injector, assess the condition of the fuel system and ignition devices. If there are any malfunctions, they must, of course, be eliminated.

In general, there are no particular difficulties in repairing a non-starting injector. The main thing in the process of such work is to act competently, in accordance with the procedure and possible vehicle malfunctions described above.

Causes of malfunction

Motorists are wondering: why does the VAZ 2107 engine suffer from injector problems? Many owners of injection VAZ 2107 encountered the fact that the engine began to stall. This malfunction is typical for the entire family of Lada engines. What are the reasons for this effect and where to look for the problem:

• Fuel pump and filter.
• Injectors.
• Spark plugs and high-voltage wires.
• Air filter.
• Throttle.
• valves.
• ECU and sensors.

When the candles are lit

If the VAZ-2107 injector starts poorly (it catches, but does not start), it means that the combustion chamber is overfilled with gasoline. The normal fuel to air ratio should be 1:14. This problem often happens on such cars. When starting, the fuel pump pumps a lot of gasoline. By the way, on injection engines it is electric, submersible type. Installs directly into the tank.

How to dry candles without removing them? To do this, open the throttle valve when starting. It is mechanical here and is activated by pressing the accelerator trigger through a cable drive. This will allow more air to enter the combustion chamber and the engine will start immediately.

Solution methods

When the reasons for the throttling of the injection-type VAZ 2107 engine have been determined, you can proceed directly to analyzing options for eliminating the problem. Before you begin, you need to understand that you need to know the design features of the motor.

But the 2107 engine is so simple that even the most inexperienced motorist will figure out what’s going on. So, let's look at how to remove the injector tripping of a VAZ 2107 engine.

Fuel pump and filter

The first place to look for the cause begins with the fuel supply. First, you should check the fuel pump for functionality and whether there are any malfunctions. If this element does not show visible signs of damage, then it is recommended to disassemble it and check it.

Many experienced car enthusiasts advise, after the fuel pump, to start replacing the fuel filter element, since this is where fuel can poorly pass to the injectors. The fuel filter, according to the service documentation, must be changed every 30-35 thousand kilometers.

Injectors

The next place to look for trouble is the injectors themselves. They may be clogged due to the use of low-quality fuel or defective due to their service life, in other words, worn out.

The elements are checked using a special stand, which not only diagnoses the condition, but also cleans the elements. If there is a damaged or worn part, it is better to replace it with a new element.

Spark plugs and high voltage wires

Loss of spark can also lead to engine malfunction. The next unit that needs to be examined is the ignition. First of all, it is recommended to diagnose the spark plugs. To do this, you need to pull them out from the block head and visually inspect them for cracks. Next, it is recommended to clean the spark plugs from accumulated dirt.

It is worth noting that it is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the spark plug contacts. If they are in oil or have heat, then the problem is not only the engine tripping.

The next stage of diagnosis is to ring the contacts using a multimeter and measure the gap. In most cases, such diagnostics show that the spark plugs are not suitable for further use and should be replaced.

Another element of the ignition system that directly affects the ignition of the air-fuel mixture is high-voltage wires. How well and economically the motor will work will depend on their condition. Therefore, it is recommended to inspect them for damage and also test them with a multimeter.

Air filter

A dirty air filter can lead to the engine not receiving enough air into the combustion chamber, and accordingly the formation of the air-fuel mixture will be disrupted. Therefore, it is recommended to inspect the element, and if it is found that it is dirty, it must be replaced.

Throttle

A dirty throttle valve also prevents the normal flow of air into the engine. To diagnose the unit, it is necessary to dismantle it. If you find that dust and other foreign objects have accumulated on the walls, you should clean the part. To do this, you will need a special product or liquid for cleaning carburetors. This operation can be performed by any car enthusiast without any problems.

valves

Burnt-out valves can cause the engine to start to misfire, since a gap is formed between the seat and the exhaust valve, through which exhaust gases flow back into the combustion chamber, thereby disturbing the balance in the air-fuel mixture.

To diagnose the unit, it is necessary to dismantle the block head. Often, already burnt-out valves are the first sign of wear on the piston group, and accordingly everything leads to a major overhaul.

ECU and sensors

The last place to look for a problem is the sensors. Thus, failure of one or more measuring elements can cause a tripping effect. Therefore, the motorist will have to check them manually, since the electronic control unit cannot always recognize that the sensor has failed.

The electronic engine control unit can also cause tripping. Accumulated errors or damage in the software will disrupt the operation of the entire system. To diagnose and troubleshoot the problem, it is recommended to contact specialists.

Filter status

The following situation also happens. You arrived at your destination, turned off the engine for two minutes, got into the car and were unable to start it again. What to do if the VAZ-2107 (injector) does not start when hot? This could be due to a clogged fuel filter. Its replacement period is about 50 thousand kilometers. A dirty air filter is also to blame for difficult starting.

If it has traveled more than ten thousand kilometers, it must be replaced. Otherwise, you will encounter startup problems.

VAZ 2107 injector, does not start.

Good afternoon, forum members. The problem is this: literally on Saturday the car started without problems, with half a turn. On Sunday, my father changed the radiator, and still, it wouldn’t start, checked all the wires, replaced the spark plugs, fuel filter and no change. I already had this problem, the car sat outside for 9 hours, after which it wouldn’t start, then they started it with a pushrod. This time nothing helped, at first they pulled it, it started and immediately died, after that it won’t start. The pump is pumping, the spark plugs are dry, the fuses have been checked, but there is no spark. Tell me what to look for before taking it to the Service, before that I had a carburetor 7ka, it’s easier there, but here it’s bad. The fuses were checked.

I will be glad for any advice.)

I'm not very good with injectors. Later the specialists will come and write. You need to look for a spark. Are you sure no contact has been cut off? Do you know all the places in the car with fuses? Have you looked everywhere? hmm. I didn’t find a fuse on the ECU (brains) https://car-exotic.com/vaz-cars/vaz-2. uipment-1.html schema

Last edited by GRom 22rus; 11/12/2012 at 06:26.

The wires are all in place, the fuses and relays are all intact. We looked under the hood and in the cabin.

I also didn’t find any previous information on the brain.

Well, that’s already the answer - the ignition module needs to be checked. Maybe while the radiator was being replaced, a wire was torn off or a connector was not inserted.

location of elements of the VAZ 2107 engine control system 1 - electronic control unit, relays and fuses (located under the glove box in the cabin); 2 — oxygen concentration sensor (located on the exhaust pipe); 3 — speed sensor of the VAZ 2107 car (located on the gearbox); 4 — adsorber purge valve; 5 — mass air flow sensor; 6 — ignition coil; 7 — crankshaft position sensor (located on the camshaft drive cover); 8 — coolant temperature sensor (located in the cooling system pipe); 9 — throttle position sensor; 10 — control system wiring harness

We'll see, thanks. Are there diagnostics on basins, like on the Japanese? )))

little guy, check the engine, if there is a check on the instrument panel, it means...

and how is it different? There is an injector, there is a computer, there is also a diagnostic connector.

diagram of the engine control system of a VAZ 2107 car

1 — engine diagnostic block; 2 — tachometer; 3 - warning lamp for malfunction of the VAZ 2107 engine management system; 4 — throttle position sensor; 5 — throttle body; 6 — electric radiator fan; 7 — electric fan relay; 8 — electronic control unit; 9 — ignition coil (module); 10 — speed sensor of a VAZ 2107; 11 — spark plug; 12 — coolant temperature sensor; 13 — crankshaft position sensor; 14 — electric fuel pump relay; 15 — fuel tank; 16 — electric fuel pump; 17 - bypass valve; 18 - safety valve; 19 — gravity valve; 20 - fuel filter; 21 — adsorber purge valve; 22 — exhaust pipe; 23 — oxygen concentration sensor; 24 - battery; 25 — ignition switch (lock); 26 - main relay; 27 - nozzle; 28 — fuel pressure regulator; 29 — idle speed regulator; 30 — air filter housing; 31 - mass air flow sensor

Once it started and stalled, and this is not the first time such a pandemonium, look at the sensor on the crankshaft (what the teeth count there above in the diagram under the number 13), is its fastening dirty, can it be stupidly replaced..

The injection engine does not start, what should I do?

If it is more or less clear with carburetor engines, what to do if an injection engine does not start? Good for owners of large cities where there are tow trucks and a large number of car services. What about in small towns and villages? Can I find and fix the problem myself? At least you can try. The devil is not as scary as he is painted. What might be needed for this and is it possible to do without special diagnostic equipment? In some cases, and such malfunctions are much more common than serious ones.

The injection engine does not start, which is necessary to troubleshoot.

To find and eliminate most faults, a test lamp, a spark gap and a multimeter are enough. the cost of the latter is approximately 250 - 300 rubles. You can make a test lamp yourself by connecting two wires to the instrument backlight lamp. Under no circumstances use large and powerful lamps, such as headlights, for this purpose. The lamp power should not exceed 2.5-3 W. otherwise the controller may be damaged. You can use LEDs for this purpose, but you must take into account that it is polarized, that is, one of its terminals must be connected only to the plus, and the other to the minus.

The spark gap is needed to check the presence of a spark discharge on the spark plugs. You can do it yourself. A couple of old candles or something else will do.

To check the fuel system, it is better to use a fuel pressure gauge. The monometer must be designed for a pressure of at least 5 atm. You can assemble the connection fittings yourself.

Injection engine does not start, troubleshooting.

If the starter of your car turns normally, but the car does not start, the first thing you need to do is check that the fuel pump is turned on. On domestic cars, its operation can be heard from the passenger compartment; when the ignition is turned on, a characteristic buzzing sound comes from under the rear seat or trunk.

If you cannot hear the fuel pump turn on, you need to check the integrity of the fuses and the activation of the main relay of the engine control system and the fuel pump relay. On the VAZ-2107, VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109 and their modifications, relays and fuses are located on the shelf under the glove compartment or under it. On VAZ-2110, VAZ-1117 and similar ones, you should look in the heater console on the passenger side by unscrewing the fastening screws and removing the side cover.

If the fuses are working properly, check the activation of the main relay and the fuel pump relay. Turning on is determined by a characteristic click, or you can feel it by placing your finger on it.

To determine the malfunction if any of the relays do not turn on, follow the corresponding link by clicking on it with the mouse: MAIN RELAY DOES NOT TURN ON, FUEL PUMP RELAY DOES NOT TURN ON.

Checking the fuel system.

If the fuel pump turns on, check for fuel pressure in the rail. If available, you can use a pressure gauge, but if it is not there, you can most likely check it simply by eye. To check the pressure on VAZ cars, you need to press the spool located at the end of the ramp, on the opposite side from the supply, under the protective cap. Checking the pressure on GAZ vehicles is carried out by disconnecting the supply tube, which is attached to the ramp. When the fuel pump is turned on, the fuel pressure must be at least 2.8 atm.

If the check is carried out without using a pressure gauge, then when you press the spool or remove the supply tube, there should be pressure in the ramp, and when the fuel pump is turned on, fuel should be supplied in an even stream with constant pressure. When the pump is running and there is no pressure, the cause may be: lack of fuel, obstruction of filters or fuel lines, or malfunction of the pump itself.

Checking the ignition system.

If there is fuel pressure in the power system, then you should check the ignition system and the condition of the spark plugs. Be sure to use a spark gap to check for spark discharge. When checking the spark using a spark plug placed on the housing, high resistance may appear, which can lead to failure of the controller. When checking the spark for a break, if the gap is very large, damage to the module or controller is also possible. In addition, there is a chance of receiving an electric shock, which is quite unpleasant.

The reasons for the lack of a spark discharge and recommendations for troubleshooting are in the article “The spark on the injector is missing.”

Other malfunctions.

If the pressure in the fuel system is normal and there is a spark on the spark plugs, but the injection engine does not start, then check the correct installation of the timing disk located on the crankshaft pulley. This disc has two missing teeth that create a gap. This is the synchronization period that serves to start reporting for the sensor. When installing the first cylinder at top dead center, the sensor should be between 19 and 20 teeth from the synchronization interval. If the position of the sensor does not correspond to this position, this may be evidence of rotation of the disk due to a break in the rubber damper or a loosening of the fastening bolt and a broken keyway.

If the fuel supply and ignition systems are working properly, the cause must be sought in the engine itself. You should check the gas distribution system and the condition of the engine cylinder-piston group by measuring the compression.

The situation when there is no reaction when turning the key in the ignition switch is known to almost every motorist, especially owners of domestic models. If the instrument panel lights up, then the problem is not with the battery, but perhaps with a device such as the starter. We are interested in the starter on the VAZ 2107, but since these devices are identical on almost all domestically produced cars, this means that they have the same problems with malfunctions. If the VAZ 2107 starter does not turn, then it’s time to carry out diagnostics and find the breakdown. Let's figure out why the product for starting the engine may not function.

Troubleshooting

If you operate a car for a long time without carrying out diagnostics and technical inspections, then everything will end in failure. If the engine does not start, then this breakdown can be repaired in a few minutes or in a few hours, depending on the type of breakdown. How can you determine why the starter does not turn? The main types of breakdowns include the following factors:

The simplest but most common breakdown of the starter on the VAZ 2107 is oxidation of the contacts. Moreover, the contacts oxidize both on the device itself and on the battery.

A more complex breakdown is usually associated with a malfunction of the solenoid relay, as well as rotor wear, breakage of windings, brushes and slip rings.

Burnout of the solenoid relay contacts. The exact breakdown of the mechanism can be determined after its dismantling. After removing the unit, you should check the condition of the main components, both the solenoid relay and the device itself. The resistance of the windings, the presence of breaks or short circuits, the presence of oxidation, contacts, etc. are checked. Once the cause of the breakdown is identified, it should be eliminated if possible, or the entire mechanism should be replaced.

The main reasons why the device does not spin

Let's consider the main reasons for such consequences in which the starter does not function.

The battery is low. It is very easy to identify such a breakdown. If you turn the key in the ignition, and there are no signs of life in response, and the lights on the panel have completely gone out, then the reason lies directly in the battery. The problem can be corrected by charging the battery. If the battery has a weak charge, at which the control panel operates, then when you try to start the engine, clicks of the relay operation will be heard.

Lack of ground on the solenoid relay. The mass can disappear for several reasons: contact oxidation, wire breakage, loosening of the nuts. If there is no “mass”, then the unit may not show any signs of life, or may work only once in a while. The situation can be corrected by stripping the contacts and tightening them, or by checking the supply wires.

Break in the circuit. If the relay does not click after trying to start the engine, then the failure may lie in the ignition contact group. The fault can be determined by checking the presence of contact between the ignition and the starter.

Solenoid relay malfunction. A malfunction of the solenoid relay can be eliminated by replacing it or, sometimes, repairing it.

The malfunction may also consist of a broken wire between the solenoid relay and the starter relay, through which power is supplied when the key is turned in the ignition switch.

How to recognize malfunctions

The starter should not be blamed if the engine does not start for the simple reason that the fault may lie in other devices. The malfunction of the device in question on the VAZ-2107 can be identified by the following signs:

• The car does not start, but the starter is buzzing. The reason is a malfunction of the retractor mechanism.
• Silence from the starter when turning the key in the ignition.
• The engine starts after several unsuccessful attempts to start it.
• The device continues to function after the engine is started.
• The presence of noise, grinding and knocking when the car is moving.

The presence of one of the above-mentioned signs indicates that the fault must be sought in this mechanism.

Unit repair

The estimated service life of the product is about 5-6 years. If the mechanism is used significantly, it should be replaced with a new one. You can check the serviceability of the solenoid relay by applying power to the product. The “+” power from the battery is connected to terminal “50”, and the “ground” is supplied to the unit body. If the product is in good working order, a quick and loud click will be heard. There will be no click on a faulty device. You can replace only the solenoid relay, but first carry out a full diagnosis.

To check the health of the windings, you need to use a multimeter. Features of the continuity of the stator and armature windings are described in the material on repairing the device. You need to check the serviceability of the overrunning clutch by turning the gear. The gear should rotate freely in one direction, and together with the armature in the other. It is important to check brush wear. The height must be at least 12 mm.

This concludes a brief analysis of the main starter failures on the VAZ 2107. There is no difference in these devices, and it does not matter which “seven” you have - an injector or a carburetor. The only difference is that older VAZ-2107 models are equipped with older models of devices, while models new to the year of manufacture are equipped with gear starters, which are characterized by greater efficiency and reliability.

Brushes and winding

The starter design consists of four metal cores, which are also called shoes, and a winding connected into a circuit.

The voltage supplied to the winding comes from the central input. In turn, the output is output to positive copper-graphite brushes going to the commutator. They also connect negative brushes coming from the starter mass. Several small springs constantly press the brushes. Graphite is not a strong enough material, so sooner or later they break. When the life of the brushes comes to an end, the solenoid relay stops receiving voltage.

When such a problem occurs, the starter will not spin or make sounds. In case of repair, the unit is disassembled, the condition of the brushes is assessed and replacement is made. If the brushes can still fulfill their intended purpose, then the problem usually lies in the winding. When the winding is completely burned out, then the varnish coating should also burn out.

And the copper color turns black. In such a case, you can change the winding or replace the part with a new one.