Installing an electric heater on a VAZ 2104. Antifreeze heater

Winter is a challenge for any car owner. Moreover, many are annoyed not so much by the deterioration of the road situation (snow, ice), but by the difficulty of starting a cooled power plant. Of course, those whose cars “winter” in heated garages do not have this problem, but there are relatively few of them. Most car owners have their cars idle overnight in the open air or in a regular garage (at best).

And yet there are ways to alleviate the plight of car owners. One of the most optimal methods now is to install a heater on a VAZ or any other car.

How to choose engine heating

Of course, before installing heating, you need to buy it. We will consider two options, one with and without an electric pump. Let's look at the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.

Installation of engine heating on a VAZ 2107 with an electric pump

This preheating differs from the other type by the presence of a pump that circulates the coolant while it is warming up. Naturally, this significantly speeds up the warming up process, however, the circulation of the coolant does not allow it to warm up to the required level.

Advantages:

as mentioned above, such preheating of the engine warms up the coolant much faster.
the engine warms up most evenly, which allows you to minimize wear during the first start.

Flaws:

Perhaps the shortcomings are not as few as we would like. First of all, constant circulation of water requires high power of the heating element. If it is less than 1.5 kilowatts, this may result in the engine simply not warming up to the required temperature. It will just need to be reheated during operation.
any mechanic will tell you that the fewer parts in a unit, the more reliable it is. An electric pump is installed here, which actually adds a few extra parts. Accordingly, the reliability of such an installation decreases. In addition, installation becomes more complicated.
additional power supply for the electric pump. The fact is that the pump, as a rule, has a 12 volt power supply. Accordingly, you will have to figure out where to get it. Of course, the first thing that comes to mind is a rechargeable battery, but with this mode of operation it will not last long.

Installing engine heating on a VAZ 2107 without an electric pump

There is a second type, it is the most common because it is easy to install, does not require any maintenance, and is also highly reliable.

Advantages:

As mentioned above, first of all it is reliability.
No need for additional power. If you only have a 220 volt outlet, then this is quite enough.
Easy to install. It is enough to install only a couple of tees and the heated housing itself.
Low power. Even one kilowatt of electricity is enough.

Flaws:

Water circulates only under pressure from the temperature difference. That is, when the water has warmed up in the heating housing, it will continue to flow through a small cooling circle.

Antifreeze heater - what is it and how does it work?

Starting the engine in the cold season is the most difficult test for a power plant. The fact is that cold parts have a high coefficient of friction, which also occurs when the viscosity of the oil increases. Starting the engine this way instantly increases the engine life by about 10 kilometers. To make starting easier and safer for the engine, automobile designers came up with a simple device - an antifreeze heater. In this article you will learn what it is, what it is used for, its types, as well as installation instructions.

Purpose of the preheater and its operating principle

Such a heater is a device that is designed to preheat the engine without starting it in order to facilitate its start. This device is a heating element powered by an electrical network, which quickly heats up the coolant and many other engine systems.

These heaters are usually considered non-autonomous. Such a device was first invented and used in 1949 by Andrew Freeman. To do this, this unit was screwed to the cylinder block instead of the coolant drain bolt. These devices are most widely used in countries where low temperatures are almost the permanent climate of the region: the northern latitudes of Russia, Canada, as well as many states of America located in the northern part, and many others. Typically, in such regions there are special parking lots with an outlet that serves to connect pre-heaters.

Any modern preheater consists of the following elements:

A heating element rated at 500-4000 W, which is screwed into any of the existing technological holes in the cylinder block, through which free access to the coolant is provided. Another connection option is to turn on the heating element through the pipes, but in this case, you will have to pour more antifreeze than usual. . This device controls the heating process and in many cases has a special timer that disconnects the device from the network if the temperature of the antifreeze reaches 90 degrees.
A special unit that charges batteries (if we are talking about autonomous heaters). The fact is that such devices consume quite a lot of energy, which will then be needed for the initial start of the engine. If the heater “sucks out” all the energy, then it will not be enough to start and then the meaning of such a heater simply disappears.

The operation of the antifreeze heater is based on the high resistance of the heating element. When you connect it to a network, no matter what, current begins to flow along the entire length of the thick spiral. Since it has a high resistance, current leakage occurs, which is accompanied by increased heating of the conductor. Thus, the spiral heats up and transfers its heat to the engine coolant, which, in turn, heats up all engine systems.

Types of antifreeze heaters

There are two types of antifreeze heaters:

Pre-heater, powered by the vehicle battery. This is the very first type of heaters, which is distinguished by its autonomy from external power sources. Most often, it is used by drivers who do not have their own garage or who do not have the opportunity to use another type of heating.

The main disadvantage of such a heater is that it can completely discharge the battery if used improperly.

Electric heating of the engine, which is powered by an industrial network of 220 Volts. This heater has increased power and allows you to heat up the car quite quickly. It does not affect the condition of the battery, but is dependent on external sources. It is advisable to use it only for those drivers who have easy access to a regular home outlet.

All heaters that are powered from an industrial network can have different installation methods, which gives them their own classification. The most common is a pump heater, which acts as a separate water pump of increased volume and includes a heating element. Another type of such heater can be presented in the form of a remote element connected to a pipe system.

How to install engine heating on a VAZ 2109

In this manual we will talk specifically about heating the engine from a 220 volt network. It is worth immediately warning that installing this device yourself without the appropriate skills is not recommended, since an incorrectly installed heater can cause a fire. If you are not versed in electrical engineering and have never dealt with the cooling system of these cars, it is recommended that you entrust this task to car service employees, who will perform it much faster and with better quality.

It is necessary to carefully study the cooling system and purchase the appropriate components. Since the “nine” pump is located under the timing case, it is impossible to install such a heater, so we will consider the option with a remote element. It is worth immediately taking into account that the preheater must be included in a small circle that passes through the car engine. This means that you shouldn’t install it anywhere.
Then drain the antifreeze and disconnect the pipe that leads from the thermostat to the cylinder block at the front of the engine.
Further, at the request of the car enthusiast, you can buy a special set of pipes or connect old elements to the heating. First, secure the heating element to the bottom of the cylinder block (for this, the manufacturer has provided a whole system of technological holes on the bracket).
After this, the pipes of the appropriate sizes are adjusted. Thus, you must turn on the heater through the cut of this pipe.
Once all the dimensions have been selected, you can lubricate the pipes with sealant and secure them with clamps. Next, unwind the wire with the “plug” and pull it out to the front of the engine compartment. Here the choice will be yours: leave it under the hood or take it outside so as not to open the hood again. In the first case, you will achieve its protection from hooligans and other external factors, and in the second, you will achieve convenience.

Attention! The wire must be routed in such a way that it does not touch various hot and rotating parts of the engine to avoid accidental damage. If necessary, the wire can be lengthened or shortened.

Now fill the antifreeze back in and enjoy a pleasant start and shortest engine warm-up in winter.

How the antifreeze heater works - installation on a VAZ 2109.

What is and how does an antifreeze heater work? How to install an engine pre-heater on a VAZ 2109 yourself? antifreeze heater 12 volt antifreeze heater 220 volt do-it-yourself antifreeze heater 220v installation of an antifreeze heater pre-heater for a VAZ 2114 engine installation of an electric heater on a VAZ 2109

Preheater

The problem of difficulty starting the engine in winter is associated with several factors - the viscosity of the oil increases, the resistance in the battery increases, and it cannot produce good starting currents.

As a result, when trying to start, the starter “sluggishly” turns the crankshaft, and the rotation speed is clearly not enough to start the engine. And only after several attempts, when the oil is mixed a little and the battery “warms up”, the engine can still be started, but this does not always happen.

As mentioned above, the difficulty of starting the engine is largely due to the solidification of the working fluids. But if you warm them up before starting, the fluids will become less viscous, and it will be much easier for the starter to turn the crankshaft. It is precisely the preheating of the engine that is the task of the heater.

An engine heater, in principle, is a universal device, so it can be easily installed on a VAZ, UAZ or any other make of car.

How does antifreeze behave in a heating system?

To understand how antifreeze behaves in a heating system, you need to know its characteristics. We have already determined its composition, which contains a toxic substance that is extremely dangerous for humans even in small doses. We know that it can be poured into closed and even open circuits. The problem of the possibility of leakage remains. To prevent this, you need to ensure that the coolant does not overheat. As soon as it reaches 90 degrees, the irreversible process of decomposition of the additive package begins. The reaction occurs with the release of acid and precipitate.

You also need to ensure that the antifreeze is changed at least once every five years (preferably more often). During this period, the additives exhaust their service life and also disintegrate. Moreover, the decay occurs within a short period of time. That is, it works, it works, and then bam and that’s it, it begins to corrode the system.

If we take ordinary water as a standard, then the characteristics of antifreeze can be determined in the following percentage ratio:

thermal conductivity 85% - 15% less than water;
density 120%;
viscosity 150%;
volumetric expansion 150%;
fluidity 150%.

Based on these characteristics, we can conclude that due to the higher density and viscosity, it will be more difficult for the pump to drive antifreeze through the heating system. Although a higher percentage of fluidity smooths out this effect, more powerful pumps are still needed. It is also necessary to provide for volumetric expansion and select an expansion chamber of a larger volume. It is clear that antifreeze is used in the heating system only when the room is heated irregularly. If we are talking about permanent housing, then there is no point in pouring antifreeze, which is very poisonous. It is usually used in temporary residences, country houses or garages.

There is a small peculiarity of heating antifreeze in the heating system of a house. Operating reviews indicate that you need to turn on the boiler after some time of inactivity, during which the coolant has had time to dry out, to a minimum and then gradually raise the temperature. So slow. This is necessary because circulation with thick antifreeze is difficult for the pump, and the coolant velocity is very low. Therefore, the composition remains in the combustion chamber coil for a long time, where it can overheat. We have already talked about what happens to it when it overheats.

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Which engine heater is better to install?

When choosing a suitable heater, you need to focus on the place where the car is used.

When using a vehicle in a city and having access to a household network, you can use inexpensive models with a 220 V connection.

If you frequently travel outside the city, for example, when using transport far from urban conditions, you should give preference to autonomous models.

This is relevant for large trucks and buses that travel long distances, as well as for remote northern regions of Russia.

In this case, you need to correctly navigate the manufacturers and installation details.

Types, features of work

There are several options for such equipment, but in essence such a device is a conventional electric heating element that provides heating of one of the fluids of the power unit.

There are several types of heaters. Some of them heat antifreeze, others heat oil. In the case of coolant, by acting on antifreeze, it is possible to heat the cylinder block, as well as the elements of the power system, which is important for ensuring normal mixture formation.

But such a device has disadvantages:

it takes more time to warm up the engine, since the cooling system is just a shell of the cylinder block;
the oil heats up slightly, since it is located below the cooling jacket in the sump, so heat will flow to it only after the cylinder block has been well warmed up;

But when using such a device, there is practically no need to warm up the engine after starting, since it is already heated, and warm air is immediately supplied from the stove to the cabin.

As for heaters that act on oil, such a device only heats the lubricant; the cylinder block and power system remain cold.

Since the volume of oil is small and it is all in one place, it takes little time to warm up. But due to the fact that only the lubricant heats up, after starting it will take time to warm up the motor itself.

In general, the effectiveness of using one or another device is approximately the same. When heating the antifreeze, we get a heated cylinder block and power system, which ensures good mixture formation (the result is excellent flammability of the mixture), but cold oil (the load on the battery and starter will remain high). If you heat the oil, then everything is exactly the opposite - the starter will turn easily, but the unit itself and the power system will remain cold.

Heaters also differ according to the power source used:

From the network 220 V;
From the on-board network 12 V (autonomous);

The first option is characterized by high power, and therefore the speed of heating of the working fluid. But to use it, the car must be close to the outlet.

As for autonomous devices, the heating element is powered by a battery, which means you can warm up the liquid anywhere, even in the field. But they are not very powerful, and during operation they drain the battery, and if it is already on the verge of exhausting its life or is simply discharged, then there will simply be no energy left for the starter after warming up.

Antifreeze heaters operating from a 220 V network have become widespread among car owners. In general, this is one of the most optimal options - the battery does not run out, the power of the heating element is high, and after using it, the driver also receives hot air from the stove.

Now manufacturers of automotive accessories and equipment offer different models of preheaters. All of them are almost identical in operating principle, but may differ in design - some consist only of a heating element, while others may additionally have a circulation pump.

The first option is simpler in design, and therefore more reliable. The circulation of liquid in it occurs due to temperature differences. Since the speed of fluid movement in such a device is low, less energy is required to heat the antifreeze passing through the heater.

In a pre-heater with a pump, the heating of the power plant is more uniform due to forced circulation, but in order to heat the liquid well, the power of the heating element must be high. In addition, due to the pump, the likelihood of equipment failure is higher.

Flow-through heater with pump - installation

In principle, with a pump, everything is simpler, because you don’t need to go into the laws of physics - the pump does its job, and very well, most often the pump costs about 700 liters per hour.

Errors when installing a flow-through heater

1. Parallel with the stove. Not a single flow-through heater has a check valve, so it is absolutely impossible to install it in parallel with the stove, because the liquid will circulate not through the radiator, but through the heater. If there are no other options, you need to install at least one tap either at the inlet or outlet of the heating.

2.The outlet pipe must be strictly at the top. That is, it must be unfolded so that the pipes are aligned along a vertical axis. This is necessary so that the pump can expel air, otherwise the heating element will burn out.

3. This point is rather advisory in nature. Do not turn the heater pump against the fluid circulation in the engine. This means that the heater installed in the return of the stove should push water into the pump, and not into the radiator. This is necessary so as not to accidentally start the engine with the heating running.

Can you imagine what will happen to the stove radiator or just the pipe if two pumps start pumping into it at the same time?

That's right, both of them will most likely be torn apart.

These are the simplest things that every car enthusiast should know. Subscribe to the channel to know. Well, give me a thumbs up, I will be pleased.

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Engine heating installation

In this installation manual, we will look at the Severs M coolant heater, which is embedded in the system and connected to 220 V.

This instruction is also suitable for car models VAZ 2104, VAZ 2105

The heater kit consists of:

Block with heater;
Fastening elements;
Tees, adapters and clamps for insertion into the cooling system;
Cable with plug.

Additionally, installation may also require pieces of hoses of the required length to make an insert.

There are several installation schemes for such a device, the simplest of which is shown below.

In order for the engine to warm up evenly, antifreeze must be supplied to the heater from the lowest point of the engine, which is the drain plug of the cylinder block. But the exit of the heated liquid is the opposite – to the highest point.

To connect the heater to the VAZ-2107 engine, you must:

Unscrew the drain plug of the engine cylinder block, open the radiator cap and drain the coolant.
Apply sealant to the threads of the fitting and screw it in instead of the drain plug
Secure the bracket to the upper front hole in the cylinder block with a bolt through a spring washer (Fig. below)

Secure the heater to the front holes in the bracket through the bushings with studs using washers and nuts
Insert the tee from the kit into the upper hose of the cooling system coming from the radiator. Connect a hose leading to the outlet from the heater block to this tee.

Route the cable to ensure easy access to the plug.

When installing a heater, you don’t have to drain the antifreeze from the system. If you pre-assemble the heater (connect the hoses, tee and fitting) and quickly install it, then during operation 1-1.5 liters of coolant will leak out, which will then have to be topped up.

After installation, be sure to check all connections for leaks and, if necessary, eliminate them by tightening the clamps.

Installing a heater on a VAZ-2107 injector is no different from that described above.

What is the device for?

Previously, drivers resorted to extreme methods of warming up cars and trucks. To do this, they used open fire sources, electric stoves and other devices that emitted even the slightest heat. But these methods were not only ineffective, but also unsafe.

Over time, engineers have developed new electrical devices designed specifically for preliminary preparation of the engine for starting - 220V engine pre-heaters with a pump. This device is mounted in the engine cooling system. It carries out forced circulation of the coolant in the form of heated antifreeze, which significantly reduces the warm-up time.

Pre-heater operation diagram

Let us remind you that the leading places in the rating of heaters are occupied by variations that include a pump. The fact is that devices with natural circulation warm up the car much longer - from 40 minutes, while devices with a pump require from 20 minutes at average temperature weather conditions.

The engine preheater with a pump operates on a voltage of 220 volts. Most drivers consider this nuance to be a disadvantage, since it is difficult to find a parking space where it is possible to connect to the electrical network. But the main advantage of the device is that it has a simple installation scheme, so even an inexperienced user will not have any difficulties with the task of installing an engine pre-heater. But if the car owner is not confident in his capabilities, it is better to use the services of a specialist.

A heating element and a pumping system are installed in the 220V engine preheater. These are the two main parts in an electric heater.

There are two types of devices:

The housing of the pre-heater with a pump has 2 outlets for installation to the cooling system of the 220 engine. High-quality sealing of all joints is ensured by a set of gaskets and clamps. This eliminates the possibility of any coolant leaks.

VIDEO: LUNFEY - engine pre-heater from 220V

Principle of operation

In the car market you can find various modifications of foreign or domestic manufacturers. But despite this, the design of the devices has virtually no technical differences. All variations of the electric engine preheater for diesel or gasoline operate according to the same principle:

the power cord is connected to the socket;
the heating element receives electricity and turns on, and the pump starts at the same time;
the coolant circulating through the pipes receives thermal energy and heats up;
The coolant passes through the engine hoses and head, thereby warming it up.

The main feature of modern engine preheaters is that there is no need for installation in the lowest area of antifreeze passage. The device is connected to the mains using a cable with a traditional household plug. After warming up, the wire is folded into the engine compartment.

After turning on and starting circulation of the heated antifreeze, part of the heat is transferred to the interior

Most models are equipped with a thermostat. Thanks to this element, the temperature of the antifreeze is controlled and it does not boil during heating. When the temperature reaches 60°C, the thermal switch sends a signal to stop the operation of the equipment and it turns off until the temperature drops, after which it restores the maximum operating mode.

Installation recommendations

The connection diagram for an electric preheater is quite simple; the main thing is to study the design of the equipment in detail and follow the recommendations of specialists. Also, the installation principle depends on the type of cooling system. On some car modifications there is no need to drain the antifreeze.

Installation diagram of PPPD 220V

It is necessary to fix the drive pipe in the required place with clamps, while cutting out a segment whose dimensions correspond to the dimensions of the device body.
The ends of the hoses are put on the “outputs” of the heater and the joint is carefully secured with clamps.
Next, the connected system is inspected and checked for leaks. After these manipulations, the unit is considered completely ready for use.

Heater device

Ball valve - ensures directed circulation of elevated fluid temperature through the heater into the engine cooling system.
Thermostat – ensures optimal engine warm-up, does not allow the heater to heat above the set temperature, which protects the device from overheating and saves energy.
The drain plug is an optional feature that provides easy access to drain coolant through the heater drain hole on 2.0 and 3.0 kW heaters only.

Winter heating of the VAZ 2107 engine

And again it’s winter outside. I don’t know about you, but where I live, frosts are below thirty or more. My deepest sympathy for those who already get the greatest pleasure from dancing with a tambourine in the morning, starting their car in the yard in the cold. But I enjoy it. I don't enjoy it that much. Pun intended though. I'll tell you why this is so.

In the fall, when I went to a car repair shop to look for a front gearbox for an old Niva, I bought this interesting thing from a guy. It's called a starting heater. It was lying among a pile of old spare parts, and the man himself didn’t know what kind of thing it was, so he gave it to me for 100 rubles.

There was nothing written on the thing, but when I washed it, I read the inscription that “power 1500 W.” Inside the thing was a TEN, a ball with a spring (apparently a valve) and a 90-degree thermal contact.

I later found a beautiful picture and description of this device on the Internet. It turned out that this thing is a Pre-Starting Heater, it comes from Tyumen, its name is “Alliance” and they make such things for almost all brands of passenger cars.

I decided not to put it off for long, but to quickly install the thing on the car, before it snowed outside and it was near zero. Due to the fact that I only got a heater, to install it I needed the following

1. Actually, the heater itself, cleaned and washed 2. Pump from a Gazelle stove 3. Power supply from a broken laptop 4. Hoses for the AM Moskvich stove, 2 pieces of 2 m each 5. Small-sized half-inch tap, with external thread (male) 6 Three fittings for a 20 mm hose with internal thread (female) 7. Tee 32mm - 32mm - 12 inches 8. Worm clamps, automotive, 40, 30, 25 mm 9. 220 V wire with plug 10. FUM plumbing tape. 11. Silicone auto sealant

I unscrewed this bolt, drained the antifreeze, and measured it. It turned out to be an M10 X1 thread. I picked up a pipe with such a thread in the garage among all the rubbish. A tube fits for fastening a light bulb socket in an old floor lamp. I sawed off the required piece and put a hose with a clamp on it. I screwed the fitting onto the sealant into the block directly with the hose.

Installing the tee into the cut in the upper radiator hose was much easier. The tee, fitting, sealant, clamps and FUM tape did an excellent job of this.

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Modification of the cooling/heating system of the VAZ 2106

In the summer, I don’t like driving with an electric fan because of its constant switching on and high temperatures. And for about four years I played with transferring an ordinary impeller to a pump pulley for the summer. In summer it cools much better. I got tired of this and decided to install both at once. There is no point in installing twin Niv fans on a stock engine, and the hood hinges need to be moved. The space in front of the radiator allows you to move the electric fan to the other side. I had all the signal horns located in front, so I had to temporarily remove them. After trying it on, it became clear that it was a little too much and did not allow the electric fan to stand up as needed. First, the mount on the right side of the fan was cut off, strips of the housing were bent in different directions, and new holes were drilled for the fasteners.

Secondly, part of the apron was cut out, which prevented the fan from sitting deeper.

I painted the cut area with paint from a can on top and smeared it with graphite inside. After that, the fan returned to its place, as it was.

I replaced the four-blade impeller with an eight-blade one from 08. I slightly increased the wiring to the motor with a wire of the appropriate cross-section. There was still enough room for three signal pipes.

I'll put the long one behind the bumper from the inside so as not to block the engine space. Installed a new radiator Luzar turbo

. I immediately replaced the drain plug on it with a faucet, a lid and a temperature sensor. Then he installed a new pump with increased flow, also by Luzar.

I installed the pulley, impeller and air intake.

Impeller on a pulley, from a cornfield, six-bladed. I’m not installing pipes with a thermostat yet; I’ll change the generator. Well, half the job is done. The heater radiator and heater motor still need to be replaced.

After remaking the stove and installing it, I checked its operation on the car. I am more than 100% satisfied with the result. The 4-speed switch is very convenient to use, and the airflow is something! The air flow in the 4th position is so strong that it blows away everything in its path. The rear window will thaw in a couple of minutes if you point both deflectors at the rear. This modification is not complicated and should definitely be undertaken; it cannot be compared to stock. The air flow is now large and for a higher temperature of the stove I decided to install a pump from a gazelle. According to numerous reviews, it adds a lot of temperature. Startvolt chose the pump.

It has inlet and outlet tubes reinforced inside, a ceramic seal, and an 8-bladed impeller. It looks well made. Time will tell how it will show itself. The entrance to it was taken directly from the block.

Before the pump, I installed an electric valve in the gap, also from a gazelle.

The output from the pump goes to the inlet of the stove.

Those who installed the pump after the stove said that there was an effect, but less than before it. The pump control has three modes: always on, off, and on simultaneously with the stove control. This required five 4-pin relays. One directly to the pump, the rest to turn it on from the stove regulator. The relay was installed on the motor bulkhead.

At the same time I put all the relays in order. I moved everything installed in one row. I replaced the old rusty (but working) light relays with new ones and also moved them to one place.

The pipes of the entire system were also replaced with new ones; it’s better to do it once than to go through it later.

I ordered the radiator pipes for an aluminum radiator, but they sent me for a copper one. The top one is shorter, I had to look for a suitable aluminum tube for extension.

Nowadays it turned out to be not easy, everything was sold for scrap.)) Well, it looks like the installation is finished. I decided to fill it with Sintek G11 silicate antifreeze. On the manufacturer's website they recommend using G11 on Vases produced before 2001. Since 2001, both G12+carboxylate and G12++ lobrid of the new generation are available. Since they recommended it, I filled it with Sintek G11 Ultra in red.

All that remains is to start the car and check how it all works now.

Security measures

Finally, a little about the safety rules when using such a preheater:

Do not leave the equipment turned on for a long period of time. For normal warming up of the engine, 1-1.5 hours is enough;
If an extension cord is used for connection, its wires must have a cross-section appropriate for the load;
If the equipment is used on a car parked on the street, you need to mark or fence off the area through which the power cable runs.

For ease of use of the device, it should be connected to a power outlet through an adapter with a timer, on which you can set the time for turning the heater on and off.

Related articles:

Description and installation of the Longfey heater
Description and installation of the Alliance heater
Description and installation of the heater Start
Homemade pre-heater for a VAZ car engine

Webasto installation features

Of course, the autonomous option is more convenient. One of the most common systems of this kind today is the product of Webasto. There shouldn’t be any particular difficulties connecting it, but having certain skills will still come in handy. Before proceeding directly to the installation, you need to do preliminary work, which consists of removing the battery, air filter, absorber, rear seat and fuel tank flap. However, that's not all. You will also need to remove the engine crankcase protection and open the fuel tank cap for ventilation.

The heater itself is mounted in a vertical position. In the engine compartment, the best option for placing it is on the shock absorber strut, to the left (in the direction of travel) of the battery.

When connecting to a liquid circuit, you need to follow a few simple rules. In particular, the hoses should be laid straight, avoiding kinks, and the tightening torque of the clamps should be 2+05 Nm. Also have some kind of container ready to catch any leaking coolant.

Next, we connect the heater to the exhaust gas removal system. One point worth noting here. Everyone probably knows that exhaust gases heat up to a high temperature, so the pipeline must be laid so that it does not touch the plastic and rubber parts of the car. After this, you can connect to the car’s fuel system. Gasoline will be collected from the “ten” using a special tee - it is included in the device and is connected to the fuel drain.

At this stage of work there are also points that require special attention. In particular, protection against abrasion of the fuel line should be provided. In addition, it must certainly be laid in such a way that there is the greatest possible protection from the ingress of foreign objects. Do not leave hanging areas - everything must be secured using plastic fasteners on the elements of the car body.

When installing the fuel metering pump, pay attention to the correct positioning. To ensure reliable and durable operation of this unit, it is recommended to install a fine filter in front of it. When connecting, make sure that the fuel pipe fits into the fitting end-to-end.

Main technical characteristics and design features

Power 1.5, 2.0, 3.0 kW
Rated voltage 220V
Cord length – 120 cm.
Type of current – alternating
Current frequency 50 Hz
Anodized aluminum housing
Hermetically sealed housing design with an electric heating element completely eliminates the ingress of coolant into the electrical part
Thermostat (operation temperature 95°C (not lower)
Small dimensions allow the heater to be conveniently placed in the engine compartment.

Why is it more profitable to use 220-volt devices?

Now let's talk about the benefits. The first reason why these antifreeze heaters are purchased (that is, those that operate on a 220 V network) is their low price and reliability. But the most important thing why motorists appreciate such a device is its simplicity and ease of installation. It is much easier to install it and connect it to the system than a similar device powered by the car’s on-board network. In addition, such a device will warm up the interior and charge the battery, while the on-board heater will only discharge it with its heating element.

If your car has a device such as an antifreeze heater (VAZ 2110 included), it will always be in a warm state, so you will not waste your time and nerves on heating the engine in severe frost. After a few minutes of operation of this heater, you will not only have a warm engine, but also a warm interior. But each of us knows firsthand what it’s like to get into a cold car in the cold. At -20 degrees, the cold penetrates right to the bones, and the barely working stove is slowly just starting to supply warm air. In addition to this, there are icy windows, which are almost impossible to get rid of ice... In general, the picture is not the best, especially for owners of VAZs, in which not only the noise reduction is poor, but also the stove. With a heater, you will always sit in a warm interior and will not have to worry about peeling off frozen pieces of ice from the outside of the glass.

Heating of antifreeze, pre-heating systems. What to choose - advice from experienced people.

This post has . In winter, before leaving, the driver has to warm up the engine for a long time, or take off on a cold engine. In the first case, there is excess fuel consumption, in the second - fuel consumption plus wear and tear on the engine piston system. Fast and correct starting of the engine is ensured by pre-heating of the antifreeze; for this purpose, a heater is installed: autonomous, or operating from a 220 V network, or auto electronics, which is controlled via GSM.

Autonomous heater.

It is possible to make it yourself from a vulcanizer heating element placed in a cylindrical metal case, or you can buy a ready-made device. The device is installed above the bottom of the engine crankcase, the mountings are insulated, and the heater itself is connected to the vehicle's electrical system. Operates on 12 or 24 V. In 10-15 minutes. operation consumes about 0.4 kW.

Advantages of an autonomous heater: greater functionality that does not require connection to a fixed network, mobility, speed of heating of antifreeze.

Cons: expensive, difficult to install, drains the battery; requires installation of a more powerful battery (not lower than 55A/h).

Antifreeze heater operating from 220 V.

These are heating elements that operate from a regular 220 V outlet. The heating elements heat the antifreeze to the required temperature and turn off automatically.

Disadvantages: it is connected to an outlet, i.e. in an open field such a heater is useless and is not used on long trips.

Eberspache, HOTSTART, Webasto.

Heating antifreeze using car electronics is the most fashionable option. Expensive, but pays for itself within a few months after installation. Particularly good for regions where the main season is winter. Popular brands on the market: Eberspache, HOTSTART, but the most popular system is Webasto. Installed by mounting into the engine block, or as a separate device. It works (programmed and turns on and off) from the remote control or from a smartphone.

Pros: high efficiency, heating is started automatically by a preset program or remote control, while the car can be located at a distance of up to 1 km from the driver.

Cons: expensive and difficult to install.

P O P U L A R N O E:

For those who don’t have time to “bother” with all the nuances of charging a car battery, monitoring the charging current, turning it off in time so as not to overcharge, etc., we can recommend a simple car battery charging scheme with automatic shutdown when the battery is fully charged. This circuit uses one low-power transistor to determine the voltage on the battery.

In many modern cars, windshield wipers operate in different modes - continuous and pulsating (there is a pause between sweeps of the blades). This mode is very convenient in light rain and drizzle, but it’s a pity not all cars have it. Some cars with basic equipment do not have it. The question arises: how to equip your car with this mode? Read more…

How to protect the body of your car from corrosion without overpaying a car mechanic.

Since I am an avid motorist, I am interested in everything related to cars. Every car owner is faced with the task of protecting the car body from corrosion. I had read about this original method before; back at the beginning of the last century it was used to protect ship hulls. But this is the first time I have encountered the commercial application of such a miracle technology. While reading advertisements in newspapers, I came across an advertisement for “Electrochemical protection of the car body against corrosion.” After reading the short article, I decided to find out more in the car service center itself. Read more…

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The best manufacturers on the Russian market

The high demand for engine heaters inevitably led to the expansion of the market and the emergence of many manufacturers.

Today there are at least a dozen large companies offering their products in Russia.

The main ones include:

CJSC Leader is a manufacturing plant with Russian registration. Has been operating since 1993. The main direction is the production of electric preheaters.
Binar is a commercial enterprise established in 1989 in Sarov. It produces products for cars and is the winner of many ratings. Represents a large range of pre-start devices for diesel engines, with or without a pump.
Airline is another well-known brand that produces heating devices with a large selection of power ratings. It is characterized by uniform heating of the system in cold weather and helps to increase engine reliability.
Longfei is a Chinese manufacturer producing heaters that are in great demand in Russia. Sells heating products and car accessories to many countries. Uses high quality materials and uses modern technologies during work.
Orion is a domestic manufacturer focused on the production of engine heaters operating on an electrical principle. It produces a wide range of models with different powers, characterized by instant start-up. The plant's products are sold not only in Russia, but also in other countries.
Nomakon is a plant that produces devices for heating the fuel system, capable of operating for a short time or on an ongoing basis. They are universal, suitable for cars of different brands/models. The brand's products are supplied to many European countries.
Severs is a Russian manufacturer that produces reliable and high-quality products. The brand's products are distinguished by guaranteed and easy starting, high quality components, built-in protection and ease of installation.
Teplostar is a company engaged in the production of heating devices for cars of various capacities. The devices are made from high quality materials, are sold in many countries, and guarantee uninterrupted operation of the machine even in cold weather.
Advers is a Samara manufacturer that produces high-quality preheaters with or without a pump, for diesel or gasoline. Manufactured devices have different power levels, are reliable and easy to start.
Webasto is a manufacturer originally from Germany, which activates the fast operation of the machine. The manufacturer produces devices for many models, and the effectiveness is confirmed by practical use even at sub-zero temperatures. The brand's products are sold in many countries around the world.

Some heater models from the manufacturers listed above are included in our rating, which simplifies the choice of device.