The engines installed on the VAZ 2110 are electronically controlled and have numerous sensors, information from which is processed by the engine control unit. If there is any problem, the Check Engine light comes on on the dashboard. The presence of such a warning indicates serious engine problems, so it is necessary to take the car to a service center as soon as possible and carry out appropriate diagnostics and troubleshooting. In this article we will tell you why the check light comes on on 8 and 16 valve VAZ 2110 engines.
Broken spark plugs
If the check engine light comes on on the dashboard of your VAZ 2110, first of all you need to pay attention to the condition of the spark plugs and high-voltage wires. Over time, the spark plug gap changes, resulting in a lack of spark in the cylinders, and the corresponding sensors determine whether there is a problem. That is why, as soon as such an alarm lights up, it is necessary to check the spark plugs for the presence of a spark. The car owner should also inspect the condition of high-voltage wires, which may have mechanical damage, which leads to improper operation of the power unit in the VAZ 2110. Remember that the spark plugs must be changed regularly, which will help avoid such problems with the car engine.
How to turn off the check engine LED. Reset error
On different brands of cars, the self-diagnosis process is launched in different ways. For some, by turning the ignition key and pressing the gas pedal a certain number of times at certain intervals. The engine fault light starts blinking and you need to count the flashes, convert them into an error code and find an explanation in the table. For others, an error code is displayed on the on-board computer display if you start the self-diagnosis process through a combination of buttons.
Still others bridge certain contacts in the diagnostic connector for this purpose.
An excellent option that will help you save a lot of money on a trip to a car service center is to buy an OVD-2 car scanner or another brand. With its help, you can regularly check the operation of the engine to identify errors in order to understand which sensor requires replacement, or which adjustment has been violated.
Resetting errors by removing the battery terminal
You can reset errors in the on-board computer or ECU in the most accessible way - disconnect the terminal from the battery for a short time. The memory of electronic devices will be reset and the indicator should go out. But this should be done only after the error has been decrypted, detected and corrected. There are other ways to reset errors: using a scanner, installing special programs on a smartphone, closing the contacts in the diagnostic connector.
Damage to the mass air flow sensor
The faulty engine warning light may also come on if there are problems with the air flow meter. Such a sensor (mass air flow sensor) often fails or starts to work incorrectly, which leads to problems with the motor. Problems with the mass air flow sensor in the VAZ 2110 engine can be indirectly determined by significantly increasing fuel consumption. Note that it is not recommended to operate an engine with such breakdowns, so if the Check Engine light comes on and fuel consumption increases, it is best to go to a service center and carry out high-quality computer diagnostics. The cost of spare parts and repair work in this case is not too high, which will allow you to fully restore the functionality of your car.
Diagnosis of the cause
If the power unit is malfunctioning, it needs to be diagnosed. You can do this yourself or entrust the car to specialists. In the second option, detailed computer diagnostics will be carried out.
Attention! If you are diagnosing the engine yourself, then you must do this in compliance with safety precautions.
Algorithm of actions:
- Determine the “sick” cylinder. Turn on the ignition, open the hood and listen to the engine. The sound needs to be remembered. When the slave cylinder is turned off, strong tripping will begin. This will reveal the source of the problem.
- Check the spark plugs. They will need to be unscrewed and inspected. If damaged, the element will need to be replaced.
- Measure how much air enters the cylinder. Its disadvantage is the reason for the motor tripping. To do this, you need to check the air filter. If it is clogged, then replacement is necessary.
- Determine the volume of fuel entering the cylinder. For this purpose, it is necessary to measure the pressure in the fuel system. The procedure is carried out in several stages. If the reading is below normal, then the fuel pump components or pressure valves have probably failed.
At the final stage of diagnosis, you need to measure the compression in the cylinder with a compression gauge. It must be inserted into the spark plug hole of the faulty cylinder, turn on the ignition and gradually increase the pressure in the engine. Repeat this step several times. If the compression rate has decreased by 15%, then it is due to wear on the piston, valve or piston ring. The damage can only be corrected by disassembling the power unit.
Refueling with low-quality fuel
The Check Engine light may come on immediately after refueling with low-quality fuel. Such dirty and low-quality fuel, entering the engine, invariably causes increased detonation and improper operation of the injection system, and as a result, the engine control unit receives errors from the built-in sensors and a check light on the dashboard lights up. If such an alarm lights up immediately or shortly after refueling, it is most likely due to low-quality fuel. It is not recommended to operate the car in this case. You need to call a tow truck and take the car to a service center, where specialists will comprehensively diagnose the car and clean the fuel system. Otherwise, the injector may be damaged, which will lead to expensive engine repairs.
The check is blinking and the VAZ 2112 16 valve engine is running.
- To the beginning of the forum
- Forum Rules
- Old design
- FAQ
- Search
- Users
Actually 2112 16v 2004
, 150 tkm of mileage. The check light was on (crankshaft sensor, checking the error). It didn't affect the ride, I thought I'd do it a little later. I filled the tank full and headed to the dacha. 70 km after refueling at a speed of about 110 on the highway the car starts to twitch, I think I’ve arrived. I turn around and go back. The speed is uneven, the check is flashing (!), I give gas, I can hardly accelerate to 40 mph, the twitching disappears, the car is obviously running on 3 or even 2 cylinders, apparently the computer has turned off the cylinder(s) where the gas is not burning, it is running smoothly more or less ( as far as possible on 3(2) cylinders). It accelerates to 80 mph, but nothing further. In general, I got to the car service center, the diagnostician was there, but I had to wait two hours until it was free. Ok, I'm waiting. The time has come - I start the car - it runs smoothly, all 4 cylinders. The check is on. They connect the computer, look - the crankshaft sensor error is active, in the history - misfires in the second and third cylinders. There is nothing else, the readings of all sensors are normal. They change the sensor, the check light does not light up, I pay the money and leave. The diagnostician said that it was the sensor that caused the problem, but I don’t believe him. I’m driving to the dacha, I’ve driven 50 km - everything is humming, the stalling starts again (it’s slow and stuttering), I drive for 5 km, turn it off, start it (just in case from a coaster) - everything starts up ok. I reach the dacha. I go to bed, it's already late. I start it in the morning - everything is ok. At lunchtime I drove 20 km to a construction store - it’s bad, restarting doesn’t help. But it’s growing steadily, there’s no feeling that everything will finally die. The next day I’m driving home - I got almost to the house - everything is fine, I park - I stall. I start it up and it doesn't work. On the trail. day (yesterday) I went to work, in the morning everything was fine, in the evening everything was fine. Gasoline burned to a light bulb. Today I went to work, filled up with 95 supersupernano at Shell, everything was ok. On my way back I got stuck in a terrible traffic jam. I drove for an hour and a half. About an hour later, the car got busy again, stupidly I turned it off in the traffic jam (I was tired of shaking) - it barely started, I almost lost the battery. Started up - everything works ok again. I almost made it home - I was having trouble again. Is it worth changing spark plugs, wires, coils? All at once? Switch? A large jar to which the crankshaft sensor is connected (what is it, a coil?). Could this be due to the dying gas? pump? Injectors? Is it worth filling the tank with “cleaning” for the engine and injectors? Yes, I forgot, on the highway at a speed of about 80 km/h, when it stalls, it smells distinctly of gasoline.
Switch? A large jar to which the crankshaft sensor is connected (what is it, a coil?).
In short, no ICQ. Anyway. I'll write here.
Firstly. What switch? Do you have an injector or a carburetor? The switch is located near the carburetor. What 12ka I understood. what is the 5th digit? 21124 or 2112? look in the PTS. It's not clear what kind of engine you have. 1.5 V8 or 1.6 V16.
Do you have 1 ignition module or 4 individual ones. If the explosive wires. then most likely 1 module.
It jerks and doesn't move and can stall, just like the fuel pump. measure the pressure in the rail, unless of course you have an injector. Same for the ignition module. Although I have 4 of them, even 1 can fool my head. It’s difficult to determine next time whether he is or not until he dies completely.
About the crankshaft sensor. I had such a precedent. Everything was just like yours, it was stupid and wouldn’t move. I rummaged through the whole car, all the sensors. Eli drove 100 km to the dacha. I went for diagnostics. Just like yours, it showed a signal loss from the DC. Changed it. problem still exists. When I climbed up myself instead of the crooked craftsmen, I noticed that the wire from the recreation center got onto the collector and melted. When driving, it shorted to ground and the car did not move. Look at the wiring
The title is not at hand, the registration certificate just says 2112. 1.5 liters, 91 hp. Injection. Switch - I made a mistake, I mean the ignition module. https://www.baltkam.ru/auto-parts-vaz/370501002-211200/buy_/fpric.java?B37.10;370501002-211200;%C2%C0%C7 this is crap, attached to the head, from it There are 4 blue wires (probably they are not explosives), here everything is drawn like mine - ignition module - wire - coil - spark plug. https://www.baltkam.ru/auto-parts-vaz/vaz-2110-2004-g-/sistema-zazhiganiya/avto-katalog_/favto.java?P415;239;415
It doesn't stall for me. One or two cylinders (fuel supply) are turned off after misfires. And it works stably, the computer pulls up the speed. But the car is shaking (shaking).
Regarding the wiring - today I inspected everything, for all the items that I could visually evaluate - the wiring is visually normal. Well, the DC error disappeared immediately after replacing it. But I said that the computer showed misfires in the second and third cylinders, which the diagnostician erased, saying that the error was inactive. So I'm sure DK has nothing to do with this. The gasoline pump and gasoline pressure, if you think logically, cannot cause a misfire in only two cylinders + I think with such a malfunction the glitch would be more or less stable and there could not be even revolutions on three cylinders.
betam
It wouldn't hurt to check the fuel pressure.
Something that stalls and won’t start after being stuck in traffic. It looks like the ignition module is acting up. I had 2 modules die in traffic jams. And that also happened when they were just starting to fool around. Sometimes it drives normally, but sometimes it starts to stall horribly or goes out during acceleration. And at idle it runs smoothly without any problems. And most importantly, without load (standing still), it accelerates without problems, even to the red zone on the tachometer.
Problems with the ignition coils
High voltage ignition coils and problems with these components can also cause a warning to appear on the instrument panel. Such problems can be indirectly determined by the characteristic tremors of the car at idle. The car owner can check whether there is current on the coil and whether the contacts of the high-voltage wires are loose. If there are problems with the coils, it is best to replace them as a set. The VAZ 2110 engine has four high-voltage coils, the cost of which is at an affordable level, and every car owner can handle such a replacement.
Useful tips
To make it easier to identify what is wrong with the car, there are a number of recommendations:
- weak spark or no spark at all - you need to test the spark plugs. It is also worth checking the components for integrity and the presence of oil stains. You will need to inspect the armored wire. If everything is in order, then you need to inspect the module and ignition coils to prevent a short circuit;
- damage to injectors. If there are contaminants, they must be removed. If the reason is more serious, the injectors need to be repaired or replaced;
- valve is burnt out. Fuel consumption increases, compression decreases several times, the engine no longer pulls the system. Solution: measurements of indicators and, if they do not correspond to the norm, replacement of valves;
- the catalyst melts under the influence of elevated temperatures. The motor will operate in emergency mode.
If you suspect that the problems are serious, then it is better to take the car to a service station. This is important because sometimes the causes of a malfunction cannot be discovered on your own.
You can determine why the check engine light blinks and the engine stalls on your own. But damage should be repaired only if you have skills in this matter. Otherwise, it is better to show your “swallow” to specialists.
Lambda probe failure
On 16-valve modifications of the VAZ 2110 engine, a lambda probe is installed, which is responsible for analyzing exhaust gases. Over time, a layer of used oil appears on the surface of such a lambda probe, which leads to problems with the accuracy of the sensor’s readings. As a result, the Check Engine light comes on, and the car must be taken to a service center. It is impossible to independently determine the problem with the lambda probe. Only when diagnosing a car using special equipment can you determine the corresponding error codes, on the basis of which problems with the lambda probe will be identified. This element cannot be repaired and if it breaks, it is simply replaced with a new one.
Reset errors
There are quite a lot of cases when the Check Engine light comes on, and the problem that has arisen should not be ignored. However, after eliminating the problem, the light may still remain on. What does this have to do with?!
After detecting a problem, the ECU stores its code in memory (this has already been mentioned). However, if the situation is corrected, the code cannot go anywhere and therefore the indicator lights up again the next time the engine is started. Here you should erase error codes from the computer's memory. In the language of specialists, this procedure is called resetting error codes. There are several options for how this can be done.
Professional technique
This is the most reliable and effective way to get rid of the annoying indicator when the problem has already been solved. The procedure is performed in a car service center using special equipment. And today there are a lot of such places in every city, not to mention megacities.
Amateur performance
You can find special scanners for cars on sale in relevant specialized stores. Such a device can help out in different situations and therefore this purchase will be very useful for any vehicle owner.
Then the only thing left to do is download the necessary software for your smartphone (tablet or laptop - now every second car enthusiast has such gadgets). By connecting the device to the vehicle's OBD2 diagnostic connector, you can “read” all existing Check Engine errors.
Some software offers an alternative solution to the problem. Most minor breakdowns can be easily resolved by car owners. In other words, buying a car scanner has certain advantages, including savings. Finally, all that remains is to erase the errors, and the check will no longer bother and irritate you.
Originally folk technique
Some craftsmen know very well what to do to reset the error, using their own special method, which every experienced car enthusiast knows about. To turn off the light bulb, just follow a certain sequence:
- Start the engine.
- Open the hood and disconnect the positive terminal of the battery.
- Wait 60 seconds, then return the terminal to its place.
- The error code will be reset, which will be indicated by the indicator light going out the next time you turn on the engine.
- Another procedure may also help:
- Turn on the ignition, wait 3 seconds and proceed to the next step.
- Press the accelerator pedal 5 times, holding each position for 5 seconds. Release the pedal.
- After 8 seconds, press the gas pedal again and hold it for 10 seconds - the indicator will blink.
- Take your foot off the pedal and you can look at the display where error codes are displayed. Now press the accelerator pedal again for 10 seconds - the Check Engine light should go out.
- Turn off the ignition.
- To check, you can start the engine again and make sure that the indicator goes out and does not light up, as it should be.
It is worth noting that the last two methods only work if the problem is fixed. Otherwise, you shouldn’t be surprised that the Check Engine caught fire. And then visiting a specialist is only a matter of time.
Video: Daewoo Matiz. Reset Check Engine Using ELM327 and Torque
Burnt out catalyst
Problems with the catalytic converter can also cause a Check Engine Light. Such problems can be indirectly identified due to the appearance of an uncharacteristic exhaust sound, while the engine begins to smoke heavily. It is necessary to check the catalyst at a service station and if problems with this unit are identified, it must be replaced with a new one or cut out. It is not recommended to use a car with a damaged catalyst, as this can lead to various types of serious damage, including the need to overhaul the power unit.
The check is blinking and the VAZ 2112 16 valve engine is running.
- To the beginning of the forum
- Forum Rules
- Old design
- FAQ
- Search
- Users
I would be glad to have any thoughts on this matter, as at 60 thousand mileage some problems only appear.
The check is flashing - it means misfire. This is already understandable - it’s a troit. So diagnostics will not give anything.
How will it determine which cylinder (coil)?
Is there something to replace the voltage wires with as a test?
But he doesn't have them. Neither central. no other. The coil is weird (already answered). The problem is identifying it.
Nikoliaspb
Either go for diagnostics, or buy a working coil and change it successively until you get lucky. But this is if one is faulty. What if two are acting weird? Then either diagnostics or purchase of a bookmaker. Cheaper diagnostics. But BC will always come in handy. Saved me from going to diagnostics more than once.
But he doesn't have them. Neither central. no other.
It's time. change a couple of coils
In order not to prolong the topic, I’ll ask a question here, a problem has arisen.
While the engine is cold, it runs smoothly and pulls well. As soon as it warms up, it starts. When switching gears and adding gas, there is a failure, then a jerk, then a kick in the ass and we drive on without problems until the next shift. And when you start driving instead, the first press on the throttle starts to throttle, as soon as the revs rise above 2 thousand it works smoothly.
The fuel system has been checked, the pressure is normal, I changed the spark plugs just in case, it’s a mistake on the ignition.
Source
Long-term use of the vehicle
If the checkbox starts blinking on a VAZ car with high mileage, then the reasons for the power unit tripping are as follows:
If the above procedures have been completed, and the power unit is still running, then it is recommended:
- Diagnose the ECU. If necessary, it is replaced with a new block.
- Check the injectors and the entire gasoline supply system.
- Check the oxygen sensor for functionality. If the device is faulty or the performance is deteriorated, repair work is carried out.
- The crankshaft position sensor fails - in this case, the ECU generates an error indicating this failure.
Signs
How do you know if the engine is leaking? With such a malfunction, the check engine light does not always flash. Therefore, it is important to know third-party signs that may indicate a problem:
- Increased engine vibration. It is significantly noticeable at low and idle speeds.
- Spark plug color change. After removal, its head will be dark. Since the mixture does not ignite, the candle becomes covered with soot and soot.
- Increased fuel consumption. This sign is related to the previous one. Since the mixture does not ignite, it simply goes into the exhaust pipe.
- Loss of engine power. Since the engine runs on three cylinders, it does not have enough energy to produce the required torque.
- Exhaust sound. He will be unstable.
- The appearance of black or thick white smoke from the exhaust pipe.
- Intermittent jolts during acceleration and even motion. This symptom also indicates a misfire. This error is often related to the ignition system.
It is worth listening carefully to the nature of the engine. If the friction increases at medium and high speeds, it can be assumed that the valves in the engine are not working properly. One simple reason is increased valve clearance.
In any case, if one or more of the above symptoms are detected, it is worth taking corrective action.
Is it possible to drive the car?
Some people drive for months and even years with a burning check, so many people think that there is nothing wrong with this and they can move around calmly if the engine is running. In reality, everything is not so simple. Breakdowns can be different. You can drive with one with virtually no changes in engine operation, but the second will cause big problems after a few hundred or even tens of kilometers.
Therefore, if possible, it is worthwhile to find out as quickly as possible what is causing the light bulb to burn. After this, make a decision about whether it is worth moving by car or whether it needs to be repaired.
Valves and piston
These systems are tested together. First you need to remove the breather hose from the manifold. If white smoke comes from it, then the cause of the cylinder failure is definitely the piston. You should disassemble the engine and see what happened.
Most often, the rings are stuck; to eliminate them, you will have to remove the pistons. If smoke , or it is almost colorless, then the problem is in the valves. First, let's measure the compression. If it is less than 11, then the diagnosis is a burnt valve. You will have to remove the head, change the valve and grind it in. If everything is fine with compression, remove the engine cover and check the valve adjustment. The engine can fail either because the valve is tight or because it is too loose. In any case, they need to be adjusted.
What is engine tripping?
First, let's look at the definition of this concept. This term appeared due to the 4-cylinder engine design, where if one of the cylinders failed, only three working pistons remained. However, tripling does not only apply to internal combustion engines with four cylinders. Now this concept is applied to all internal combustion engines - six-cylinder and even twelve-cylinder.
VAZ 2112 strange case
#1 maxim_001
#2 liner
The leakage current is too much! up to 100mA = normal, higher, no longer normal!
The check is still a light bulb or LED.
It’s worth trying it on directly on the “receipt” itself. relative to the mass on both sides. The voltage difference gives rise to light. the difference can be quickly localized; it can be either the lock itself or the alarm interlocks (if any) located in the lock circuits. from the ECM side, only the controller and its power circuits. Well, and more connectors.
#3 iai
#4 Evgen
#5 maxim_001
#6 AVA
Diagnostics, repair, updating and modification of automotive equipment. viber +79697788671
- Top
- Nickname or quote
- APC ADACT
- → Diagnostics
- → Domestic cars
- Forum Rules
