Troubles Kalina engine 8 valves reasons for cold

Owners of the domestic Lada Kalina sooner or later have this problem when the engine misfires. But I would like to immediately note that this problem is not detected exclusively in this model; it often occurs in other machines, even foreign ones. Therefore, there is nothing terrible about this, the main thing is to understand the reasons for what happened and know what to do if the check light is on.

Why does the 8 valve engine on Kalina fail? List of reasons and actions

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Turning off the ignition and restarting the car immediately solves the problem. Or rather, it stops for a minute, but then the games with nerves begin again.

The 8-valve engine on Kalina troubles only after the engine has slightly warmed up. In the very first minutes of starting, there is no such feeling: the power unit runs smoothly, the speed is kept at the same level. However, later the tachometer needle begins to twitch, rattling begins, and the engine itself begins to throttle and choke on fuel.

Finding the cause of the malfunction

The engine starts to stall when the fuel pump malfunctions and does not pump in the required amount of fuel, or when it does not burn completely. The substrate of the first case is not only the fuel pump itself, but also the conductive system. And the second reason may be related to problems with the ignition system, spark plug carbon, or improper operation of the engine valves.

If the fuel system is not working properly

, the feeling that the engine is stalling will develop a minute after the start, and then will only increase. If there is a narrowing of the pipeline, or there is no power to the fuel pump, such problems are not uncommon. You can check this after exposing the relay: start the engine, check the functionality of the pump and relay. In this case, the on-board computer will not show errors.

If there is a problem in the valve apparatus itself, in the spark plugs or in the ignition system, it will also manifest itself. Namely: the engine will start normally, but a moment later it will start to stall. Similarly, the power unit fault light should light up, because standard sensors perceive an excess (or lack) of fuel.

When such interruptions in the fuel supply occur, twitching develops, because the amount of gases produced in different engine operating cycles varies.

Problems with valves on Lada Kalina

On the 8-valve Lada Kalina engine, the valves are less reliable than on the 16-valve version. This is a design flaw of engineers that car enthusiasts will have to deal with.

For diagnostics, you will need to at least look at the electronic control unit and compression in the cylinders. This will have to be done at a car service center, where computer diagnostics will initially be offered (see the article “What is included in engine diagnostics”).

Often, there is no result that can be relied upon to fix the problem, because the source of the breakdown is not in the sensors, but in the mechanical part of the car. Therefore, you will have to measure the compression in the cylinders. If it is normal, you need to remove the engine valve cover and inspect the gap between the valves. Its normal value is 0,2-0,35

.

It is important to set the valve clearance in this range, after which the engine stops running and the “engine malfunction” light goes out. By the way, valve adjustment for Kalina is required every 60,000-70,000 kilometers

But when gas is used as fuel, they need to be adjusted more often - every 20,000-30,000 km.

Similar problems

Other problems may also occur besides those described above. When the 8-valve engine on Kalina fails, the culprit of the problem may also be the ECU, which in this model is placed very poorly. If the owner did not wrap it with film, the contacts could oxidize, and conductivity through them could slow down or disappear altogether. The on-board computer will say the same, producing various errors.

Occasionally, it happens that antifreeze gradually seeps into the electronic control unit through a bunch of wires. Moreover, outwardly the ECU will look dry, although aggressive liquid gradually gets inside it. Therefore, the driver needs to open the block housing and inspect the contacts.

Reasons why a car won't start

The VAZ 2114 engine troubles in cold weather.
It also happens: the immobilizer is silent, does not give any sound or color signals, but the Lada Kalina still does not start. The cause may be problems with the starter. It is even easier to recognize a failure of this device than an immobilizer. If everything is fine with the starter, when you start the engine you will always hear a healthy, peaceful rumbling of the engine. There will be no sound when the starter stalls.

Starter operation may be affected by a discharged battery. You can understand this by looking at the instrument panel - not a single light on it will be lit. If the lights are on, you need to check a simple test: turn on the high beam headlights and see how they burn. A dim glow confirms our guess; in this case, the battery should be recharged. Good headlights dispel all doubts in this regard.

But it also happens differently: for the first twenty seconds the headlights burn perfectly, brightly, and then they slowly begin to go out, like a burning candle. This is a bad sign, you will have to tinker. In this case, either the starter itself or the wiring has failed. The wiring is checked with a voltmeter; people call this device “tseshka”. Do not forget that the wires are connected as necessary, but in a strict order: red - to the starter contact, black - to the car body. The norm is considered to be from 12.5 to 14.5 W.

A lower figure indicates serious problems with the wiring. To solve them, you need to clean the contacts, inspect the fuses and wires, in case there is a break or burnt areas somewhere. If these emergency methods do not help and the car does not start again, you will have to somehow get it to the workshop. There is special equipment that will determine the causes of the breakdown in a matter of minutes.

Checking the wiring operation

There is, of course, a radical method, which is better to resort to in the most extreme cases, for example, when the car stalled somewhere in the middle of the road, far from the city. The method is called “pusher,” but there is one caveat: you need to find two or three strong guys who will agree to help a little and push the car.

In order for the engine to fire, the starter contact must be closed directly, for which the car is placed in neutral gear, or better yet, the handbrake. Having done this tricky manipulation, turn on the ignition and conduct current from any wire with the “+” sign to the starter. The main requirement for the wire is the presence of voltage, which can be borrowed from the battery (“+” to the starter, and “-” to ground) or from the lights. When the current begins to act on the starter, it starts to move and spins the motor shaft. The car wakes up from hibernation and comes to its senses for a while. But even if the car starts up this way, don’t rush to rejoice. This is only a one-time procedure, after which the car must be taken to a service station, otherwise the repair will cost you a pretty penny.

Another reason why the Lada does not start is a failure of the electronic control unit (ECU). This device is an analogue of a processor for a computer, without which there will be no work; it is the brain of the machine, its basis. If something is wrong with the ECU, a distress signal is sent throughout the car, a collapse occurs, from which it is very difficult to get the Lada out of it. Failures usually occur due to antifreeze somehow leaking from the stove.

Advice and recommendations from experts

As you can see, if the VAZ-2110 engine trims at idle, then the reasons for this operation can be very different. It should be understood that various malfunctions in the operation of the ignition distributor or fuel pump can also provoke tripping. But in this case, the engine will fire three times in each cylinder.

In some cases, to solve the problem you need to fill in high-quality fuel and warm up the engine well. In other cases, cleaning the spark plugs and replacing the wires will help. And although in most situations these simple actions save the situation, sometimes they may not work.

If there are deviations in the engine's operation, then this is already a reason to replace the spark plugs along with the filters. You also need to clean the power system, check the fuel pump and fuel pressure. Computer diagnostics can also be performed. But the problem needs to be dealt with immediately - if ignored, it can lead to expensive repairs in the future. You should not ignore this symptom - it is better to look for problems in time.

So, we looked at the reasons for unstable engine operation at idle, and also found out how this problem can be eliminated.

Causes of tripping at idle

Engine problems when idling

When you turn on the ignition and start the car, it idles intermittently. There may be several reasons for this . Let's consider the main problems that lead to this effect:

Problems with spark plugs.

Diagram of possible spark plug faults

All these reasons can cause the engine to idle intermittently.

Trouble-shooting

The causes of the malfunction have been identified, and you can proceed to repair the car. To do this, it is worth checking step by step all the elements that could cause such an effect. So, let's look at the sequence of actions to troubleshoot the problem.

Spark plug

A breakdown, contamination or failure of this element can lead to the car idling intermittently, or, in popular parlance, “triple”. To eliminate the problem, you need to unscrew the spark plugs. How to do it:

Remove the negative terminal from the battery.

Removing the battery terminal

We take out the high-voltage wires

Removing spark plugs using a 21 socket

That's basically all the dismantling operations.

In order to understand the condition of the spark plug, you need to visually inspect it: if it is too dirty, it means that they are being filled with gasoline and it cannot detonate normally, but if it is too clean, then not enough fuel gets into the engine.

Also, it is imperative to check the performance of the spark plugs. This is done on a spark plug stand, but if there is no such thing, then the old fashioned way, using a tester, we measure the resistance. It is imperative to measure the spark plug gap using a feeler gauge with a mark of 0.10 - this is the standard size that should be on all elements.

High voltage wires

The serviceability of high-voltage wires is checked by checking the resistance. Using a tester, each wire is “ringed” separately, where the value should be 5 ohms.

Checking high voltage wires

Ignition coil

If this unit fails or malfunctions, the effect of poor performance may occur not only at idle, but also when driving. It is worth checking the performance of the coil and replacing it if necessary.

Fuel system

The most common problems with engine rough idling occur in the fuel system. There may be several reasons for this, namely:

Checking and cleaning injectors yourself

Fuel pump filter clogged

It is worth checking all these elements for normal operation. If necessary, troubleshoot any problems that may arise.

Similar problems

Other problems may also occur besides those described above. When the 8-valve engine on Kalina fails, the culprit of the problem may also be the ECU, which in this model is placed very poorly. If the owner did not wrap it with film, the contacts could oxidize, and conductivity through them could slow down or disappear altogether. The on-board computer will say the same, producing various errors.

Occasionally, it happens that antifreeze gradually seeps into the electronic control unit through a bunch of wires. Moreover, outwardly the ECU will look dry, although aggressive liquid gradually gets inside it. Therefore, the driver needs to open the block housing and inspect the contacts.

Other engine and system malfunctions

1. Compression in the engine cylinders is low.
2. The cylinder head gasket is damaged.
3. The engine control system is faulty.
4. The valves of the gas distribution mechanism are burnt out and leaky.
5. The exhaust system is leaking.
6. The valve clearances are not adjusted (8-valve engines only).
7. The hydraulic pushers are faulty.
8. The engine air filter is dirty.
9. Vacuum hose connections are leaking.

Have you encountered power failures or observed unstable engine operation? What was the reason? We solve similar power unit problems in the comments or on the forum. Let us remind you that along with misfires, other engine malfunctions may appear, for example, floating speed.

Found an error? Select it and press Ctrl+Enter..

How to rebuild a Lada engine

Serious malfunctions, of course, are very difficult to fix on your own, without special equipment, but every driver should know the basics. So, how to rebuild an engine?

Remove the motor and dismantle its components in the following sequence:

• water pump;
• generator;
• carburetor;
• starter;
• gasoline pump;
• collectors;
• ignition system breaker;
• camshaft drive;
• valve cover;
• flywheel;
• clutch device;
• pulley;
• cylinder head.

Now clean the parts and carefully inspect them for damage. If you notice any defective ones, replace them with new ones. It is advisable not to use used parts, even if they are in reasonable condition.

Repairing the cylinder head. Here you should change the seals and put the valves in order. We carry out installation in reverse order

When replacing spark plugs, it is important not to forget to check the safety valve, since a short circuit may also blow the fuse

Is the engine acting up? Check the spark plugs!

So, what should we do if we set off on a long journey, but suddenly, unable to withstand a severe test of strength, the car stalled midway? The situation is not pleasant. But don’t give up, it’s time to get down to business. The problem may lie in the following.

1. Most likely, you filled your car with gasoline of not the best quality. It's possible that debris somehow got into the motor. Just in case, it’s still worth cleaning the fuel lines and the tank itself, drying it and filling it with normal fuel that you are sure of. By measuring the pressure in the fuel rail, you will know whether there is a problem here or whether you need to look further.
2. Damage to the fuel pump. It is easier to identify this problem: if the ignition is still turned on, then if there is a defect, the fuel pump makes a characteristic sound, indicating a malfunction. Remove the pump from the gas tank and check the outlet pressure in the tank using the power supply method. The pressure coefficient should not be less than 2 atmospheres.
3. Ignition system failure: spark plugs do not produce a spark. To fix the breakdown, you just need to replace the spark plugs with new ones; it won’t take much time.
4. Throttle assembly defective. This unit is the most important part that performs a significant part of the engine’s work. When it deteriorates, air and fuel mix, which leads to engine stupor.
5. Injector failure. This is the most rarely encountered problem.
6. It is necessary to adjust the timing valves if for some reason there is a violation of the clearances.
7. The gas pedal needs repair.
8. The motor has not yet been run in, so it malfunctions. The solution to the problem is simple: you need to be patient and break it in, driving 6000-7000 km. But it is worth remembering that the speed cannot be raised above 3000, otherwise serious repairs will be required after break-in.

This sensor monitors oil pressure

What can cause "triple"?

The causes of the described malfunction can be very different.

To reliably install them, you must first find the faulty cylinder. It is recommended to start such a search from the very moment when it was discovered that the check engine light was on. At least, such recommendations are given by the manufacturer who installed an automatic fault warning system on the car.

The search procedure is quite simple. To do this, it is enough to disconnect the power tips from the spark plugs one by one. As a result of this alternate shutdown, it is possible to determine the inoperative cylinder by the sound of the engine. If the sound of the engine has changed, this means that the culprit of the “triple” has been detected.

If the check light on Kalina is on and computer diagnostics of the engine is carried out, the faulty cylinder will be indicated by the computer. At the same time, this diagnostic method can also help to establish the initial causes that led to its malfunction. They could be the following:

• incorrectly set ignition timing;
• presence of air leaks in the vacuum brake booster;
• defective spark plugs;
• breakdown of electrical wiring and capacitor wires;
• presence of air in the exhaust manifold;
• wear or breakage of piston rings;
• burnout of pistons and valves;
• incorrect valve timing;
• cylinder head defects;
• severe wear of the valve stem seals;
• poor carburetor adjustment;
• air filter contamination;
• use of spark plugs incompatible with this engine.

In this case, the main malfunction leading to the fact that one of the cylinders becomes inoperable is considered to be the failure of the spark plugs. A sign of this may be the fact that Kalina’s engine does not warm up well, especially in the morning.

In addition, it is always worth making sure that when operating a car, only those spark plugs that are recommended by the manufacturer are used. This can extend the life of the engine for a very long time.

What to do first if the engine seizes up

Summarizing all of the above, we can draw up small instructions on what to do if symptoms of a throbbing engine appear.

If the engine shakes more when starting or when cold, you need to start your search by checking the spark plugs and high-voltage wires. If the problem becomes more pronounced after warming up or under load, it is better to first check the condition of the air filter.

It is better to check other possible reasons as the work becomes more complex. » alt=»»>

Almost every car enthusiast sooner or later encounters such a fairly common malfunction of the internal combustion engine, when the engine stalls. As a rule, in certain situations the engine stalls when hot or only when cold, and tripping can also occur constantly (regardless of the temperature of the power unit, operating mode, load level, etc.).

In short, engine tripping means that one or more cylinders are not firing, and there can be several reasons for such a malfunction. In this article we will talk about why the engine stalls after warming up, how the malfunction can be diagnosed, and what signs help to accurately identify the problem.

Read in this article

How can I check the regulator and flow meter?

If the speed begins to fluctuate with enviable regularity, it is better to start diagnostics by checking the air-fuel mixture flow sensor. The following symptoms indicate a malfunction of the air flow sensor:

• A cold motor “floats” and there are interruptions.
• The engine does not start the first or even the second time, sometimes it does not start at all.
• Fuel consumption exceeds all permissible limits.

How can you determine when it’s time for the sensor to retire? It’s very simple - use a regular tester. It should show 1 V if the MAF is ok. Otherwise, you will need to make a replacement.

We've sorted out the flow meter - now let's talk about the regulator. The speed in your engine may fluctuate due to the fact that the idle speed regulator has failed. It is responsible for quickly increasing or decreasing the fuel supply, using a rod with a needle for this purpose. Among the key malfunctions of the regulator are:

• Quite unstable, “ragged” operation of a cold engine when idling.
• In neutral, the engine suddenly turns off.
• Unexpected changes in speed even when the engine is well warmed up.
• Lack of normal power growth when the engine is already running.

Power (more precisely, engine speed) drops when several consumers come into operation at once. Even ordinary headlights can make noise. If the above symptoms are observed, the regulator will need to be replaced.

Engine diagnostics

Before you start tinkering with the hardware, it’s worth turning to the car’s software and understanding whether the reason may lie in the failure of one of the power unit’s sensors or in a so-called software failure.

Getting access to the car's software is quite simple. To do this, the motorist will need some equipment and materials. First, you should find out which engine control unit is installed on the vehicle.

To do this, you need to look at the service documentation or decipher the body number. The second option is not available to everyone, and therefore it is worth following the path of the slightest resistance. Electronic engine control units marked 11186-1411020-12 can be installed on the Lada Kalina 2 power unit.

Diagnostics Lada Kalina 2.

Depending on which ECU is installed on the car, it is worth choosing software for diagnosing and repairing software. Also, in the process you cannot do without a USB data cable, which is called OBD II. Well, to perform direct diagnostics and guide the process - a laptop computer or tablet.

Let's proceed directly to the process of diagnostics and troubleshooting. We install the appropriate program on the tablet, which will not only allow it to synchronize with the ECU, but will also make it possible to carry out full diagnostics. After installing the software, connect the cable to the tablet and control unit.

By analyzing the data obtained, you can understand what the condition of the equipment is and whether there are problems. Typically, diagnostics show failed sensors that need to be replaced. After replacement, it is worth clearing the accumulated errors and trying to see if the engine operation has changed. If this does not happen and the cause remains, then you should go directly to looking for the causes in the hardware.

Prevention of car engine tripping

Prevention of such a phenomenon as engine “triplication” is that the car owner needs to promptly eliminate the most common malfunctions of the engine, as well as other related systems. To do this, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the periodic maintenance schedules established by the manufacturer for the vehicle.

At the same time, if you have little experience in owning a car, it is better not to engage in serious technical work yourself, but to entrust their implementation to experienced specialists.

In addition, it makes sense not to delay carrying out prevention at the first deterioration in engine performance, attributing them, for example, to low-quality gasoline. At the same time, all preventive measures should be carried out only in those auto repair shops where experienced craftsmen work. For example, incorrectly set ignition timing can lead to the appearance of “triple”.

Unqualified service station employees very often sin with this, especially if the car owner is a novice behind the wheel and has little understanding of the technical side of the matter.

In the same case, when all systems and components of Kalina work correctly, the “triple” effect should not occur. In this case, the service life of the engine should be significantly reduced, since the power unit, in which one of the cylinders is inoperative, may experience increased loads, leading to its accelerated failure.

It is worth mentioning the Traffic Rules, which directly prohibit the operation of a vehicle with a faulty engine. Therefore, it is better not to risk either money or rights, and if a “triple” effect occurs, immediately send the car for repairs.

Diesel does not develop full power

Good day! Question for those who have encountered this problem. So I’ll start from afar to make the situation more clear. In general, I wrote earlier that I had a problem with the fact that at a traffic light the speed dropped to 500, then rose to 1200, then leveled off and everything started in a circle several times, and if I left it on hot, at idle, it could stall altogether, but it stalled softly, as if they had simply turned the key, and the canister purge valve was also clicking. I went through various diagnostics for a long time, in the end they found an air leak through the rubber bands of the receiver, changed the IAC, washed the throttle, changed the filter and mesh, after this replacement curve the fuel pump whistled, failures seemed to become less frequent, but it still stalled and only when it was hot, when I left it on single. As a result, I got to one diagnostician, he found a bent throttle valve, did the firmware and the car seemed to drive, the fuel pump stopped whistling after a month and a half. Everything seemed to be fine, but over time I began to notice such a thing that when the tank needle is in the red zone, the car seems to have been replaced, it starts to drive very cheerfully with less pressure on the gas pedal, plus there is clearer information from the pedal and less roar of the engine when accelerating. .e. even from the bottom (1.4 engine) it accelerates with a pleasant sound, and not with a fart that is about to die. BUT, as soon as you fill gasoline above the red zone, the car becomes sluggish, when accelerating in second gear, the car does not respond to how much the gas pedal is pressed, whether the pedal is to the floor, or until half the acceleration speed does not change, the speed rises somehow slowly, but if you pump the gas pedal with your foot several times, you can achieve a slight acceleration, but still not as much as on an empty tank (for the difference in weight of 30 liters, I think it’s stupid to say what will affect acceleration). Plus, when accelerating from the bottom, there is an unpleasant, sort of slightly farting sound from the engine (not the exhaust), it feels like it’s missing either air or gasoline. I drove like this for almost a year, I couldn’t find the reason, there were similar topics on the service and on the Internet, but there were no concrete solutions, most people simply don’t believe that the car can drive more vigorously on an empty tank. There is no air or other stuff in the tank. Recently the fuel pump whistled again, but the car drove briskly and on a full tank, so the pump was still original since 2009, I decided that the problem was in it and changed it, it seemed to start running, then I found a topic about the RTD and also changed it to catch up. The car came to life with any tank, drove like that for a week and a half and went to another city on the highway, everything was great, the acceleration was excellent, I didn’t even notice how quickly it picked up to 150. BUT, after driving about 70-80 kilometers, I began to notice that something was wrong again, when I was driving back I had to stoke in third to overtake

In general, now I don’t know where to dig, the car now drives according to its mood, no matter how many liters are in the tank, for example, I leave for work in the morning, it’s dull, the gas is on the floor, and like a pensioner it accelerates slowly, I leave it in the parking lot, in the evening I go out and it drives cheerfully with slipping in second and third gear, as if the engine had been changed. So far I can’t catch any pattern (if before it was based on the level of gasoline in the tank)

I also forgot to write that even after replacing the RTD with a hot one, in half the cases it starts poorly, you have to squeeze the gas. I only drive on gasoline; I don’t have gas equipment. Anyone who has encountered such a problem or knows what could be the reason, please tell me.

VAZ (lada) kalina 2004 - 2022

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggxYgRp4TME

Good afternoon. The engine starts normally. Severe interruptions a couple of minutes after the engine starts, especially when the air temperature is closer to 0 degrees. When more than 2 and above, triples less. And after turning off and pausing, 4-5 minutes, they disappear. But, when driving, you feel that the traction is less than before.

ECU

I read a lot of topics on the Internet, but could not figure it out myself. Buying all the sensors one by one is expensive. Tell me where to start and what to do.

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Actually, they are not held in place by anything, only by O-rings in the sockets. Do not hesitate to pull, sometimes the rings remain in the sockets.

Well, measuring the compression will tell you if it’s low, it’s either the valve or the rings. If you inject oil into the cylinder and measure the compression again, then if it increases, it is likely that the rings are stuck. If it remains low, then the valves are to blame, or burned out, or something else.

The explosive wires should not be checked, but replaced with new ones or known good ones from a working machine. Checking with some kind of multimeter is useless; they can be sewn at different speeds and at different humidity.

Check the DPKV and the wiring going to it, DMRV, DPDZ.

New Lada: Repair and operation of Lada Niva Legend (4×4)

I checked the wires to the DPKV, everything is clean without damage or oxidation.

DPKV rang 656 Ohm within normal limits. Diagnostics shows only these errors:

• P0363 Misfire (neutralizer protection)
• P1304 Misfire (neutralizer protection)
• P1301 Misfire (neutralizer protection)

After resetting the errors on a warm engine there is no friction and the check does not light up and you can drive. But in the morning I start it and a minute later it starts shaking and the check engine light is on. And the errors appear first: P1304 Misfire. (neutralizer protection) and P0363 Misfire. (protection of the neutralizer), and then it starts to shake even more strongly and the third error appears - P1301 Misfire. (neutralizer protection).

The wiring of the mass air flow sensor and air sensing sensor is also normal, without breaks or oxidation, and their codes are not in the error list. The fact that errors appear in cylinders 4 and 1 suggests a faulty coil (ignition module). But why then does the tripping disappear after a few engine starts and you can drive?

I forgot to write - the car was produced in 2022, November. The mileage is just over 42,000 km.

We didn’t think about changing the gas station and flushing the fuel system. Check the injectors, maybe they are “hanging”, they are pouring into the cylinders, and that’s when the converter protection turns on.

There is no way to remove the fuel rail with injectors. I did everything according to the instructions.

Use a 5mm hex to unscrew the two screws securing the fuel rail to the intake pipe.

We move the fuel rail (along the axes of the injectors) so that all the injectors come out of their nests in the intake pipe.

The injectors do not come out of the intake pipe sockets; I even used a screwdriver to pry off one injector at a time. The ramp with the injectors moves a little up and down, but they do not come out of the sockets. I watched a video of how to remove a ramp with injectors, everything can be easily removed. I don’t understand what’s wrong, maybe I’m missing something, or there is some peculiarity in my case, please tell me?

Finally I removed the ramp with the injectors. I connected the gas hose back and turned on the ignition and let the fuel pressure rise. Then I looked at the injectors, there were no leaks. I washed the injectors with Wynn's injectors in the removed state, replaced the O-rings, checked for leaks again and put them back in place.

After this problem appeared, the new spark plugs began to have black deposits (carbon deposits), and the old spark plugs had brown deposits, all four spark plugs.

For some reason we completely ignored the ignition module, P0363 and P1304 are just cylinders 1 and 4 on the same coil. Have you looked under the hood in the dark? Perhaps he is sewing somewhere. I would like to throw in a module. Is there somewhere I can borrow? In the end, take it from the store as a deposit, do not screw it in, but simply insert the wires into the new one and check it.

I took a compression gauge from the man and, turning off the gas pump and turning off the gas, first measured the compression on a cold engine. I started with the fourth cylinder - 6.5, then the third cylinder - about 13, the second - 13 plus, the first - 12 plus. Injected oil into the fourth cylinder, measured again - 9.

I warmed up the engine to 90 degrees and measured it again in the fourth cylinder-8. I didn’t refill the oil. It turns out the rings or valves means the engine is being repaired. It’s a little early at mileage 42,000. The valves are not clamped, I changed the oil and filter on time - Liquid Moli, I always drove carefully, the engine never overheated.

3-cylinder

2-cylinder

It is possible that the piston has burnt out, an autopsy will tell for sure.

Finally, I removed the cylinder head, poured some gasoline into the exhaust and intake ports, and in the inlet of the 4th cylinder, gasoline leaked through a closed valve. I dried the valve and it is clear that the valve does not adhere to the seat over the entire surface, but only part of it.

Well done, change the bushing, grind the valve and you will be happy.

I took the head to the master, he dried out all the valves and he didn’t like some of the valves, even in those cylinders where the compression was normal. So I bought a set of valves and guides. The master changed 4 exhaust valve guide bushings, made a roller cutter for the exhaust seats, grinded in all the valves, and shortened the exhaust valves.

With the head removed, I adjusted the valve clearances. Now, after tightening the head, the gaps have decreased by 0.05mm. At graduation it was 0.35 and became 0.30. At the intakes it was 0.20 now 0.15. One master says that you can start and drive and adjust it again after 1.5-2 thousand km. And another master says, it is advisable to adjust it again immediately. Who should I listen to and what is the best way to do it?

After a couple of thousand you will not have the desire to get into your head again; almost no one does this. In principle, your gaps are set within acceptable limits to minus, for intake 0.20 (-0.05) mm, for exhaust 0.35 (-0.05) mm. It’s better to immediately do 0.20 and 0.35 and forget.

Friday, 12/01/2021, 14:00

How to protect from water when washing

The best remedy is, of course, not to wash the engine. But how to remove oil stains? There are several ways. The most neutral one, which does not lead to consequences, is to buy a grease remover from dishes in a store, spray it on and wait a few minutes until everything drips down. Then use a compressor to thoroughly blow through all engine parts. But no moisture or water.

The second way is to mix a little gasoline with mallow - a product that many car mechanics use to wash their hands, pour this mixture into a spray bottle, spray it on the engine and also air dry.

How to wash your engine safely

Of course, you can and should wash the engine, but it must be done correctly. It would seem that it could be simpler: I took the car to the car wash, quickly washed everything, and no problems. However, in reality this does not always happen. The engine may not start or start to stall, and the indignant car owner will be told that the administration is not responsible for the consequences of washing the engine.

In addition to the fact that water under powerful pressure penetrates through seals where it should not be, the picture is complemented by shampoo for contactless washing, which is much more aggressive than conventional shampoo for manual washing. The strong alkaline environment of such shampoo causes corrosion of aluminum and copper parts and failure of various sensors. There are often cases when the owner washed his “swallow” so thoroughly that he disabled all the electrics.

The safest way to wash an engine is with special aerosols. First of all, you need to disconnect the battery and cover the generator and other attachments with plastic. You need to spray the composition onto a dry, warm engine (after the trip the car should sit for half an hour), since the active substances will quickly evaporate from a hot engine without having time to act. Then you need to wait 15-20 minutes and rinse the engine with low pressure running water.

The last stage is purging the spark plug wells. This can be done either using a compressor or a can of compressed air. To be sure, you can use a hair dryer to dry your hair afterwards. If, after washing, the engine still stalls or does not start at all, first of all you need to let the car sit for a day in a dry, warm garage so that all the components under the hood dry out. In most cases this helps. If the problem remains, you will have to visit a workshop.

INTERRUPTIONS IN ENGINE OPERATION

Malfunctions of the Lada Kalina car and their elimination 02.02.201108.02.2016 During interruptions, the engine idles unevenly, does not develop sufficient power, and consumes gasoline increased.

Interruptions, as a rule, are explained by a malfunction of the electric fuel pump nozzles, spark plugs or one of the cylinders, or air leaks into one of the cylinders.

You need to find the problem and, if possible, eliminate it.

1. Start the engine and let it idle. Go to the exhaust pipe and listen to the sound of the exhaust. You can bring your hand to the cut of the exhaust pipe - this way the interruptions are felt better.

The sound should be even, “soft”, of the same tone.

Popping noises from the exhaust pipe at regular intervals indicate that one cylinder is not working due to a failed spark plug, lack of spark, injector failure, strong air leaks into one cylinder, or a significant decrease in compression in it.

Popping noises occur at irregular intervals due to dirty injector nozzles, severe wear or dirty spark plugs.

If popping noises occur at irregular intervals, you can try to replace the entire set of spark plugs yourself, regardless of mileage and appearance, but it is better to do this after contacting a car service center to diagnose and repair the engine management system. 2. If the popping sounds are regular, stop the engine and open the hood. Check the condition of the ignition system wires.

The insulation of high-voltage wires should not be damaged, and the wire tips should not be oxidized. If there is damage to the wires, replace the faulty wire.

USEFUL ADVICE The simplest and at the same time effective way to check high-voltage wires is to check in the dark. Place the car in a dark place, start the engine and open the hood. Inspect the high-voltage wires. If the insulation of the wires is damaged, you will see a characteristic blue-violet sparkle (“northern lights”). In this case, the high-voltage wires must be replaced. 3. Remove the ends of the high-voltage wires.

When removing high voltage wires, never pull on the wire. When removing, pull directly on the tip, turning it from side to side.

4. Turn out the spark plugs with a spark plug wrench.

5. Carefully inspect the candles and compare their appearance with the photographs below. The gap between the spark plug electrodes should be 1.0-1.13 mm. If the candle is black and wet, you can throw it away.

6. If all the spark plugs look good, reinstall them and connect the high-voltage wires. Cylinder operating order: 1-3-4-2; The cylinders are numbered (1, 2, 3, 4) from the engine crankshaft pulley.

7 Take a spare spark plug. Secure it to the engine in any way.

WARNING Do not fix the spark plug on the oil filler neck, oil dipstick, fuel pump, or fuel hoses.

Reliable contact of the body or threaded part of the spark plug with the “ground” is optional, but desirable.

Connect the high-voltage wire from cylinder 1 to the spare spark plug.

Start the engine. If engine interruptions do not worsen, replace the spark plug in cylinder 1 with a good one.

Attach the high voltage wire and start the engine. If the interruptions intensify, repeat procedure step 7 sequentially with all cylinders to identify the faulty spark plug.

USEFUL TIPS If the diagnosis reveals a malfunction of the 3rd cylinder, remove the hose connecting the vacuum brake booster to the engine, turn it off securely and start the engine. If engine interruptions stop, diagnostics and replacement of the vacuum brake booster is required. If engine trouble continues, try spraying a liquid like WD-40 on the outside of the hose. If engine interruptions stop even for a short period of time, try replacing the hose; there may be a rupture in it.

If, as a result of the measures taken, interruptions in engine operation are not eliminated, contact a car service to diagnose the ignition system on a stand or diagnose the engine - measure the compression.

Normal compression is more than 1.1 MPa (11 kgf/cm2), a difference of more than 0.1 MPa (1 kgf/cm2) in one cylinder indicates the need for engine repair.

Kalina 8 valve engine does not work smoothly

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Good day.
I'm asking for help with my swallow Kalina station wagon 2008 8 valve. One morning it refused to work normally, the engine was doubling, tripling, at times all the cylinders were working, but the power was not developing. I started to figure it out: 1. I looked at the ramp, there was no pressure with the engine off, I climbed into the tank, the tube was frayed, I changed the tube and the fuel pump (just in case), there was no result 2. I noticed that the antifreeze was gone, I threw my head down, the difference was 0.15 and mm I polished off traces of antifreeze in the cylinders, collected them, and adjusted the valves. It works a little better, but the ghosting and ghosting remain. 3. I bought a compression gauge and a pressure gauge and took measurements. The compression is 13.5 in all, the fuel is 4, but at idle (420 - 560 rpm) there are slight fluctuations on the pressure gauge, with increasing speed the fluctuations disappear. 4. I connected the elm 327 and saw a high air consumption; when adding air after the air flow sensor, the engine intends to stall. According to the ADC channel on the DMRV, the stopped engine showed 1.03. I bought a new DMRV ADC and it became 0.998. 5. The masses behind the glove compartment were cleaned, the one below had oxidation between the terminal and the nut. I replaced the ground wire from the engine to the body, and added it from the battery terminal to the body. 6. Replaced DPKV, coil, spark plug wires. 7. I turned off the oxygen sensors, DPRV, DMRV, IRRV, but it did not give any result. 8. Candles in soot are a rich mixture. 9. I removed the ramp, turned on the fuel pump, there is no sweating on the injectors. I removed the injectors, applied it from a bottle of brake cleaner, energized the battery, and on all of them there was an even pattern of fine dust. 10. I took oscillograms using dso150. I am confused by the uneven voltage on the ignition primary. attaching photo. 11. I drained all the gasoline from the tank from the ramp, filled in another 8 liters. I seem to have described all the main operations, after all this I have unstable engine operation at 480 - 600 rpm. when you press the gas pedal, everything may be unchanged (480 - 600), it may slowly disperse and above about 1200 a reaction to the gas appears. When you hold the pedal in one position, the speed fluctuates irregularly. Added after 4 minutes 16 seconds:

Disconnect the adsorber valve, plug the hose towards the throttle with a bolt. Next, you can write here all the fuel corrections from the diagnostics, with the engine warm. What engine ecu, what is the sticker on the ecu?

Is the ECU leaking with antifreeze from the leaking heater?

Added after 5 minutes 8 seconds:

To make it easier to display photos, you can register a Yandex disk for yourself; for this you need to register in Yandex mail. And the photos are no more than 2 megabytes each, so that there are, I think there are few people willing to upload 30 megabytes of something unknown. ACDsee is a free photo editing program for Windows.

Source

Troit in wet weather

The question very often arises: “Why does the engine stall in wet weather, that is, in high humidity?” Quite often, drivers have problems starting the engine in wet weather, and after an overnight stay, the car does not want to obey at all.

Especially in the morning, when everyone is rushing to work, a problem arises with the fact that the car either stalls or does not even show symptoms of operation, and everything lies in only one thing - excessive humidity. But how can you determine where moisture is very high and how it got there? If you just look under the hood, you are unlikely to find answers to your questions, so it will be very difficult to clearly notice damp spots.

How to figure out what is causing problems in wet weather?

If you have carried out a visual inspection of the car under the hood and did not see any wet places, as well as any indicators of damage, the first thing you should do is start the engine.

We achieve success only on the 5th, or even 10th attempt, the grip occurs only 4-5 times, in most cases, even 10 attempts are not enough to successfully start.

If you still start on the first try and do not observe any obvious problems, then you should let the car cool down, after which the problem will repeat. Only after a run of 10 km will the engine start up without causing any problems.

You can check in other simple ways to find the problem. To do this, you should park the car in an unlit place. After this, at night you should open the hood, after which your partner should turn the key to the start. And at this time you observe what processes are happening near high-voltage circuits. You will notice a seamless “northern lights”.

The main reasons for this malfunction in Kalina

When you find out that the power unit is running rough in the Lada Kalina, this means that out of 4 cylinders in the engine, only 3 are working. Naturally, this indicates a malfunction of the engine, and this manifests itself while driving and strange noises appear. It happens that the engine stalls when cold.

What indicates signs of “triple” in Lada Kalina:

• When any gear is engaged, jerking appears during acceleration;
• There is a strong vibration in the cabin when the engine starts;
• Sometimes instruments display “strange” readings, for example, this applies to the tachometer;
• The engine does not start;
• The vehicle has reduced speed and dynamic characteristics;
• In any mode, fuel consumption increases significantly;
• One of the candles turned black;
• The exhaust sound has changed.

A qualified auto mechanic can identify a problem with an engine by the way it operates, or more specifically, by the sound it makes.

If you see one or more of the above listed signs in your car, then this is a signal for you to completely stop using the car and carry out a comprehensive diagnosis. The above symptoms can be the cause of a wide range of power unit problems that fall under other non-serious faults. So, it is necessary to promptly determine the causes of the problem.

For example, you notice that the candle has turned black. You clean it or replace it, and continue driving the car. However, the cause of the incident has not been identified, and the longer you drive, the more likely the engine will suffer serious damage.

The case when the automatic diagnostic system of the Lada Kalina indicates a malfunction deserves special attention. If you notice that the check engine light is on on the instrument panel, then the best option is to stop. The car should be transported to the service center by tow truck. After all, it is specialists who, under appropriate conditions, will be able to quickly and accurately determine the cause of the signal from the sensors and eliminate the machine malfunction.

When a car owner continues to operate his vehicle, knowing that the engine is running rough, he must understand that this will lead to serious wear and tear on the parts working while driving, this applies to the cylinder, piston and rings. In any case, the same faulty cylinder receives gasoline, which washes away the oil protective layer. As a result of this, if you're lucky, the entire cylinder will have to be replaced, but if things get worse, the entire engine will need to be repaired or replaced.

Conclusion

The reasons why the Check Lada Kalina warning light may come on, as well as the occurrence of engine tripping, are quite simple. You only need to know the design of the power unit, as well as the operating principle of its systems and components. It is not always possible to fix malfunctions on your own, so in case of failure, it is recommended to contact a car service center.

Does the car jerk at low speeds or when accelerating? Is the engine running rough and the Check Engine light on? Has the car lost its dynamics and doesn’t drive like before? In this article we will tell you about all the possible causes of these malfunctions and how to solve the problem.

It is worth noting that the causes of malfunctions are similar for all modern Lada cars (Kalina, Granta, Priora, Largus, Vesta, Niva or XRAY), because AvtoVAZ equips them with engines with identical characteristics.

It is recommended to start searching for a problem with diagnostics (reading errors). If this is not possible, then we first perform a test (or temporarily install a known working spare part/sensor), and only then replace the faulty parts.

If the engine idles or the car jerks when accelerating (driving), possible reasons:

What to do if the light comes on

If you see that the check engine light does not light up as it should (does not go out after starting the engine or lights up when driving), then you should stop to diagnose the car. This may not be done right away, but it is necessary. Remember, if it lights up, this is the reason, either go to a service station for diagnostics, or check the engine for faults.

The first thing you can do when the light comes on is to stop and listen to how the engine is running: is there any vibration, or any extraneous noise or knocking. If you hear extraneous sounds, they will indicate the cause of the breakdown to an experienced driver. If the cause of the breakdown is not clear to you, the direct route is to the nearest service station.

If the cause of the light coming on is poor-quality fuel (this can be determined after diagnostics, after eliminating other causes), then the service technicians will tell you that it is worth changing the type of fuel you fill in the car or the place where you are used to refueling.

• Oxygen sensor. It is worth replacing it yourself, following the operating instructions for a car of a particular brand. If the replacement is not made in time, there will be excessive fuel consumption and the catalyst may break, the replacement of which will be much more expensive.
• A leak in the fuel tank is the cause of air getting inside, which means excess consumption. It is worth either replacing the lid or achieving a tight seal using gaskets.
• Candles. This is the main element that guarantees the combustion of the fuel mixture. If they do not work correctly, then the car will refuse to work at all. Replacing spark plugs is not difficult if you are already an experienced driver. You can change either only the spark plug that has already served its purpose, or all at once, in order to definitely avoid problems with the car. It’s worth buying a set of spark plugs specifically for your car at the store. If you are not sure that you will buy the right option and be able to replace it, then go to a service station, they already have the parts you need and specialists will be able to make the replacement quickly and affordably. When it comes to spark plugs, it is worth remembering that old-style cars require replacement every 20,000 km, and if the car is new, then it can travel up to 150,000 km on the same spark plugs. If you change spark plugs on time in accordance with the technical operation requirements of your car, then you can avoid catalytic converter breakdown and improve engine performance.
• Replacing the mass air flow sensor. This part regulates the amount of air needed for rapid ignition. When it is faulty, it results in excessive fuel consumption, an increased amount of carbon dioxide in the exhaust, poor acceleration, and a decrease in engine power. Most often, the breakdown is due to an incorrectly installed air filter or the filter's operating time has already expired. When it comes to changing a sensor, the costs are related to the price of the sensor itself, but the replacement service is not so expensive because it does not require much time and is simple in technology. Regular filter replacement guarantees long-term operation of the sensor.

Kalina 8 valve engine does not work smoothly

• To the beginning of the forum
• Forum Rules
• Old design
• FAQ
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• Users

Good day. I'm asking for help with my swallow Kalina station wagon 2008 8 valve. One morning it refused to work normally, the engine was doubling, tripling, at times all the cylinders were working, but the power was not developing. I started to figure it out: 1. I looked at the ramp, there was no pressure with the engine off, I climbed into the tank, the tube was frayed, I changed the tube and the fuel pump (just in case), there was no result 2. I noticed that the antifreeze was gone, I threw my head down, the difference was 0.15 and mm I polished off traces of antifreeze in the cylinders, collected them, and adjusted the valves. It works a little better, but the ghosting and ghosting remain. 3. I bought a compression gauge and a pressure gauge and took measurements. The compression is 13.5 in all, the fuel is 4, but at idle (420 - 560 rpm) there are slight fluctuations on the pressure gauge, with increasing speed the fluctuations disappear. 4. I connected the elm 327 and saw a high air consumption; when adding air after the air flow sensor, the engine intends to stall. According to the ADC channel on the DMRV, the stopped engine showed 1.03. I bought a new DMRV ADC and it became 0.998. 5. The masses behind the glove compartment were cleaned, the one below had oxidation between the terminal and the nut. I replaced the ground wire from the engine to the body, and added it from the battery terminal to the body. 6. Replaced DPKV, coil, spark plug wires. 7. I turned off the oxygen sensors, DPRV, DMRV, IRRV, but it did not give any result. 8. Candles in soot are a rich mixture. 9. I removed the ramp, turned on the fuel pump, there is no sweating on the injectors. I removed the injectors, applied it from a bottle of brake cleaner, energized the battery, and on all of them there was an even pattern of fine dust. 10. I took oscillograms using dso150. I am confused by the uneven voltage on the ignition primary. attaching photo. 11. I drained all the gasoline from the tank from the ramp, filled in another 8 liters. I seem to have described all the main operations, after all this I have unstable engine operation at 480 - 600 rpm. when you press the gas pedal, everything may be unchanged (480 - 600), it may slowly disperse and above about 1200 a reaction to the gas appears. When you hold the pedal in one position, the speed fluctuates irregularly.

Added after 4 minutes 16 seconds:

Disconnect the adsorber valve, plug the hose towards the throttle with a bolt. Next, you can write here all the fuel corrections from the diagnostics, with the engine warm. What engine ecu, what is the sticker on the ecu?

Is the ECU leaking with antifreeze from the leaking heater?

Added after 5 minutes 8 seconds:

To make it easier to display photos, you can register a Yandex disk for yourself; for this you need to register in Yandex mail. And the photos are no more than 2 megabytes each, so that there are, I think there are few people willing to upload 30 megabytes of something unknown. ACDsee is a free photo editing program for Windows.

Elimination methods

To eliminate the tripping effect on a vehicle, you need to have enough time, since it may take a whole day, as well as tools. To work, you will need a set of wrenches, screwdrivers and heads, as well as a multimeter. So, let's look at how to troubleshoot problems that have arisen.

The on-board computer recognizes a poor-quality mixture by the combustion process. But that's not the worst thing. Poor quality gasoline can clog elements throughout the system. The consequence of long-term use of this type of fluid can lead to the valve mechanism, as well as the pistons, burning out. In this case, major repairs become inevitable, since parts wear out at an accelerated rate.

If it is discovered that the gasoline is of poor quality, the motorist will face a whole range of repair operations, namely:

• Cleaning the fuel tank and replacing the filter.
• Cleaning or changing spark plugs.
• Dismantling and checking injectors.
• And finally, disassembling the cylinder head.

After cleaning, you need to fill it with high-quality gasoline and drive it. The CHECK icon should turn off on its own when high-quality fuel enters the system.

Description of actions to eliminate speed instability

When carrying out measures to restore air leaks, the tightness of the lines supplying air to the collector is checked. Each tube is removed and purged using a pump or compressor. Additionally, a WD 40 solution is used. Where the liquid evaporates quickly, the integrity of the line is compromised, in which case the hose must be replaced with a new sample.

To diagnose the idle air control valve, use a multimeter to measure its resistance. If the resistance value is 40–80 Ohms, the regulator needs to be replaced.

The crankcase is disassembled to remove the ventilation valve and then washed in kerosene to remove oil deposits. After thorough drying, the valve is returned to the ventilation system.

If the mass air flow sensor fails, it is replaced with a new one.

When cleaning the throttle valve, special aerosols, a brush, and rags are used. This procedure can be performed directly on the engine, which has had time to warm up, or by removing it from the power unit. The appearance of white smoke indicates that oil sludge has been removed. After flushing and installation are completed, the dampers are reprogrammed to set the nominal opening gap.

Adjusting the engine in idle mode is done using a set of screwdrivers to adjust the rotation screws.

A breakdown of the solenoid valve contributes to the occurrence of jumps in engine speed. This item cannot be restored and must be replaced.

The jet is cleaned using a special aerosol liquid used when washing carburetors. The product is poured into the nozzle, after five minutes the cleaning liquid is removed using compressed air.

To treat the fuel injection pump impeller, a special agent is used to remove traces of corrosion. It is sprayed directly into the neck before pouring fuel. Cleaning the inside of the tank is done using this product. To prevent corrosion, 200 grams of engine oil is poured into the fuel tank to protect the blades.

If the engine starts to jump at idle, the speed is disrupted when the engine warms up, you need to undergo diagnostics at a service station in order to check and restore the integrity of the components and parts of the power unit systems.

Finding the cause of the malfunction

The engine starts to stall when the fuel pump malfunctions and does not pump in the required amount of fuel, or when it does not burn completely. The substrate of the first case is not only the fuel pump itself, but also the conductive system. And the second reason may be related to problems with the ignition system, spark plug carbon, or improper operation of the engine valves.

If the fuel system is not working properly

, the feeling that the engine is stalling will develop a minute after the start, and then will only increase. If there is a narrowing of the pipeline, or there is no power to the fuel pump, such problems are not uncommon. You can check this after exposing the relay: start the engine, check the functionality of the pump and relay. In this case, the on-board computer will not show errors.

If there is a problem in the valve apparatus itself, in the spark plugs or in the ignition system, it will also manifest itself. Namely: the engine will start normally, but a moment later it will start to stall. Similarly, the power unit fault light should light up, because standard sensors perceive an excess (or lack) of fuel.

When such interruptions in the fuel supply occur, twitching develops, because the amount of gases produced in different engine operating cycles varies.

BB wires

If the engine stalls at idle, the problem may be related to the operation of the ignition system. The culprit is the armored wires, which most often fail. If the wire is damaged, then the spark will break through and, naturally, there will be no spark at the spark plug. The fuel mixture in the cylinder will not ignite. It is best to check the wires with a multimeter.

Among the malfunctions of the wires, one can identify problems with the contacts at the points of connection with the spark plugs or with the coil. Also, the conductor may have various damages. If the insulation is destroyed, this will be accompanied by breakdowns and current leakage. In addition, increased wire resistance is also considered a malfunction. This also negatively affects sparking and the operation of the ignition system.