Instructions on how to remove the generator pulley yourself

The generator drive pulley changes in the same way on cars of the “tenth series” (VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112), the “Samara” series (VAZ 2113, 2114 and 2115), as well as the “new” models of Lada Kalina, Priora and Grant.

The generator drive pulley is located on the “toe” of the engine crankshaft on the side of the first cylinder (right wheel) and drives the generator and, if equipped, air conditioning and power steering using a belt.

The main reasons for replacing a pulley are damage to the ring gear or delamination of the pulley itself.

Damage to the ring gear leads to unstable operation of the motor. If the teeth are broken, the car may not start because the crankshaft sensor (CSS) cannot determine the top dead center (TDC) for the ignition count.

Delamination occurs on damper pulleys (not cast iron). The fact is that on these pulleys the outer part is attached to the central part through a rubber spacer. It acts as a vibration damper (anti-resonance) on the engine crankshaft. It happens that the outer race rotates a little. Then the toothed pulley moves relative to the dead center and, as a result, the car becomes “sluggish” during acceleration, and the idle speed becomes unstable. If the pulley is too misaligned, the car cannot be started. Also, the car will not start with the upper race completely peeled off from the central part of the pulley.

Such damage is easily diagnosed by the lack of rotation of the alternator belt.

In rare cases, the seat key on the shaft breaks, and the pulley begins to vibrate and rotate. If the movements are small, then the ECU does not display an error on the instrument panel, but at the same time the engine at idle is unstable and “troits.”

Checking the condition of the pulley is quite easy. To do this, you need to inspect the condition of the ring gear for chips and cracks. The ring gear is located on the outer race closer to the engine (indicated by an arrow) and is clearly visible from above:

After this, you need to set the first cylinder to TDC. To do this, in an 8-valve engine, remove the rubber plug on the gearbox and ensure that the mark on the flywheel aligns with the slot on the plate:

You can check by the mark on the camshaft. To get to the mark, you need to unscrew the plastic protective cover. Fasten with three “10” bolts (two are shown in the photo, the bottom one under the hose from the end of the casing):

After unscrewing the casing, pull it up. There is a mark on the camshaft pulley (right arrow). We combine it with the protrusion of the metal plate (left arrow).

It is more convenient to turn the engine by placing the car in 4th or 5th gear and pushing in one direction. You can turn it using the bolt on the crankshaft pulley, but then you will have to remove the plastic mudguard behind the wheel.

In a 16-valve engine, it is necessary to remove the plastic protective timing cover. It is secured with 5 screws using a 5mm hex key. The article describes in detail the replacement of the phase sensor on Lada Kalina, Priora and Granta cars (16 valves).

Align the marks on the camshaft pulleys with the marks on the casing.

We make sure that the DKV looks at the beginning of the 20th tooth from the two missing ones. Often the teeth become misaligned due to the timing belt jumping. This can only be checked by aligning the marks on the flywheel with the marks on the camshaft or aligning the mark on the timing sprocket on the crankshaft (you will have to remove the pulley).

However, in a 16-valve engine, assessing the position of the mark through the box window is extremely inconvenient. It is much more convenient to unscrew the spark plug of the first cylinder and lower a depth gauge or a long screwdriver into the window. Using the depth gauge, set TDC (accuracy of about 10 degrees) and check the coincidence with the marks on the camshaft. If the marks coincide, and the DKV is not looking at the 20th tooth, then the problem is in the pulley. If not, then the belt has jumped or a key on the crankshaft has been cut off. In any case, the generator drive pulley must be removed to check or further align the timing belt.

How to remove a pulley from a generator?

How to remove a pulley from a generator? What is a generator pulley? How to properly remove a pulley from a generator Tools for removing a pulley from a generator

A car generator is a very important component in the system of any car. Considering the fact that the generator consists of a large number of parts, it may break down from time to time. A generator breakdown can have a very negative impact on the operation of the entire car, because without this element the car simply won’t start. The list of reasons why a generator can break down is quite extensive. One of them may be a pulley failure. How to correct the current situation? Let's figure it out.

What is a generator pulley?

The generator pulley is a special part that is installed directly on the generator.

A pulley is needed in order to ensure the required degree of belt tension and protect the mechanism from those negative vibrations that occur when the machine engine is running. The performance of the entire car will depend on how well this part works. If the pulley is deformed even to the slightest degree, the belt drive will not be tensioned correctly, which may disrupt the electrical supply to the vehicle.

On what principle does a pulley work? This element is needed in order to reduce the stroke of the belt tensioner, which during operation is put on the pumps and crankshaft pulleys. Torque from the crankshaft is transmitted to other elements clockwise through the belt. The energy also goes to the electric generator. This element is designed differently in each car, but the main principle is always the same. Each movement of the engine goes to the freewheel mechanism of the generator, which causes voltage to arise in the winding.

It is worth listing the problems that may arise with the pulley. Over time, any part of the machine wears out, this also applies to the pulley, which can wear out from the inside, as a result of which cracks may appear on the central mounting hole. Along with cracks, pulley play also appears, and this play can increase so much that it can lead to belt rupture and destruction of the coupling. The most common pulley problems are:

— curvature along the plane;

— too much wear on the central part;

What are the consequences of problems with the pulley? The consequences may be as follows:

— The crankshaft constantly moves during vehicle operation, so even small vibrations will be enough for the device to break. The pulley is the protection of the crankshaft. The pulley may stretch during use. Over time it may rupture.

— The pulley makes the belt drive operation quieter and more stable.

— When the machine operates at high speeds, the generator receives a greater load, and this contributes to accelerated wear of this unit. The pulley reduces the load on the generator.

It is extremely important to constantly monitor the condition of the pulley and its operation, since its breakdown can have an extremely negative impact on the operation of the car. If you replace the pulley in time, this will extend the life of some units inside

How to properly remove a pulley from a generator

To repair or replace the alternator pulley, you must first figure out exactly how to remove it. The pulley must be removed along with the generator, so you must act carefully.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1) First you need to dismantle the generator. Remove the wire from the “-” on the battery.

2) Next, remove the generator drive belt. To do this, you need to loosen the bolts on the lower and upper radiator mountings, and the adjusting bolt needs to be unscrewed as much as possible. Then you need to move the generator as close to the cylinder block as possible. After this, the belt will be loosened, that is, it can be easily removed from the crankshaft and generator pulley.

Replacing the VAZ 2110 generator pulley yourself

Very often the generator breaks down because its pulley does not function normally. Therefore, the operation of the car will become unavailable, because due to a faulty generator it will not even start. This means that replacing the VAZ 2110 generator pulley is simply necessary if any problems are observed during its operation. It can either be replaced or repaired. If this is not done in time, then in two or three months you will have to repair not only the pulley, but also other parts of the machine. The VAZ 2110 generator pulley is easy to replace with your own hands.

Working principle and benefits of overrunning clutch

The generator, which is the source of electricity, is driven by an internal combustion engine, but since the engine operates at different speeds, its torque is constantly changing. The generator armature (rotor), driven by the internal combustion engine, rotates by inertia and when changing mode continues to rotate in the same rhythm, therefore the load on the belt at these moments increases significantly. An overrunning clutch (another name is an inertia pulley) is designed to smooth out differences in torque; this mechanism works on the Bendix principle in a starter. When the engine picks up speed, the parts of the overrunning clutch are engaged with each other, providing a rigid connection and maximum transmission of motion.

At first, inertial pulleys were installed only on diesel engines, but later they also appeared on premium cars with powerful gasoline engines. Now such devices can be found on many car models, for example, Ford Transit or Ssang Yong Chiron with diesel engines, and are no longer uncommon.

Crankshaft pulley selection

Cast iron pulley

The standard crankshaft pulley is steel. There are complaints about him. Therefore, when replacing it, many owners install a cast iron pulley. Moreover, cast iron is a little cheaper.

The cast iron pulley is on the left, and the steel pulley is on the right.

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How to Remove the Generator VAZ 2112 16 Valves

We change the alternator belt on a VAZ 2112 ourselves

The belt drive powers the generator to generate electricity in the vehicle. The device can work normally according to the criteria that remains for our client; its components are useful. This also applies to the strap. Replacing a VAZ 2112 alternator belt with 16 valves is not a complicated procedure that can be done in the garage. A detailed summary and video article will help with this.

When is replacement required?

Like any consumables, the alternator belt has a certain resource and requires constant technical inspection. According to the manufacturer's advice, VAZ 2112

Regardless of whether the engine has 16 valves or 8, it is necessary to change consumables after 45 thousand km. But these are just tips, you need to constantly worry about the condition of the product and just change it correctly. The service life depends on the following reasons:

driving style; performance criterion; product properties.

A visual inspection of the drive units should be carried out when the vehicle has driven a maximum of 10,000 km and before a long journey. This allows you to avoid unpleasant surprises from the trip - a torn belt. It is recommended to carry a spare in the trunk without assistance, because when a break occurs, the car will no longer be able to move without assistance.

It is necessary to change the belt if it breaks, stretches, as it is called, or becomes unusable. Poor voltage detection is a variant of a specific whistle that occurs when the engine starts. Tension plays an important role in belt drive performance. When the voltage is low, the device does not produce the amount of electricity required for the vehicle to operate properly. If it is strong, the service life of the belt, drive bearings and crankshaft is shortened.

Find a replacement, of course, if you look at the following:

the appearance of cracks and ruptures;
worn surface;

Old product with worn surface

material delamination; frayed edges; strong stretch. Belt tension is easy to check. This is considered normal if, with a force of 10 kg, it bends by 10-15 mm. To test, he needs to press his thumb into the center of the belt between the crankshaft pulley and the alternator.

How to change the alternator on a “ten” yourself, without resorting to the services of a car service.

How to remove the generator from a car:
Reinstallation procedure when replacing the generator on a VAZ-2110 and tensioning the drive belt:
Alternator drive belt tension:

The generator is an important element of the car's power supply.
Technical malfunctions that arise from incorrect operation can cause damage to electrical equipment elements and completely disable them. Insufficient battery charging will increase the load and lead to its inevitable replacement. If there is a lack of charge, there will not be enough power to power all the electrical equipment of the car. Also, cold starting the engine will become very difficult.

In this article we will look at the features of replacing a generator on a VAZ 2110.

How to remove the generator from a car:

Be sure to disconnect the terminals from the battery;
turn the car wheels to the right;
remove the engine crankcase protection (if there is one);
loosen the fastening nuts;
loosen the screw on the tension bracket;
by moving the generator towards the engine, loosen the belt tension;
remove the drive belt from the generator;
remove the wire coming from terminal “D”;
unscrew the nut securing the second wire “B+”, having first removed the rubber cap from it;
unscrew the tension screw;
unscrew the nut of the upper mounting of the generator and remove the tension bar;
unscrew the lower fastening nut and, holding the generator with your hand, remove the bolt and bushing;
take out the generator;

Reinstallation procedure when replacing the generator on a VAZ-2110 and tensioning the drive belt:

take a new generator, attach it to the lower mount and insert a bolt with a spacer sleeve and tighten the nut;
screw the tension bar to the upper mount of the generator, through the tension bracket;
screw in the tension screw;
install the wiring on the terminals corresponding to the markings;

Now, let’s move on to an equally important part of the work, when replacing the generator on a VAZ-2110, tensioning the belt. Incorrect belt tension can lead to a number of undesirable consequences.

Insufficient drive belt tension will result in insufficient or complete lack of battery charging. A poorly tensioned belt can jump off the pulleys and cause damage to engine parts and components.

An overtightened belt puts a large load on the bearings, which will lead to their rapid failure. A belt that is too tight will wear out faster and eventually stretch and break. Therefore, it is imperative to ensure the correct tension of the generator drive belt.

Under ideal conditions, when measured between the alternator pulley and the crankshaft, the drive belt should deflect by 10-15 mm with a force of 10 kg/cm.

Alternator drive belt tension:

put the drive belt on the crankshaft and generator pulleys;
screw in the tension screw until the belt is tensioned, checking it by hand;
tighten all fastening nuts;
the belt should not sag, but there is no need for excessive tension;

As you can see, the procedure for removing and installing the device is not so complicated. Any car enthusiast can do it. But to facilitate the work, it is better to perform it in a pit or overpass (if it is necessary to remove the crankcase protection and ease of access to the lower mount of the generator).

Proper operation of the generator ensures uninterrupted operation of the vehicle's electrical equipment. Monitor the operation of the device using indicator lamps. If the red battery charging lamp lights up, you must immediately eliminate the cause of the malfunction.

Timely detection of problems in the power supply system significantly extends the life of your vehicle's electrical equipment

And here we have a video on the topic:

Checking the generator capacitor

Read below what we need and how to check the generator capacitor!

It can be checked with only 1 device, a Megaohmmeter, probes come from it, then they are connected to the capacitor.
And if this Megaohmmeter shows infinity before turning on, and when turned on the resistance decreases and then returns to normal, this can only mean 1, the capacitor is working properly.
At the end of all operations, it is worth inspecting both covers to identify cracks and deformations; there should be none.
Check the front and rear bearings; they should rotate well and the lubricant should not leak.
But if this problem is visible to the naked eye, then they will have to be replaced with new ones. During inspection of the stator, no exposed wires should be found. By checking it with a test lamp and connecting it to each terminal, at this time the lamp should glow if it is in working order. The stator should also be checked for shorts to ground - this can be easily done by using a test lamp; it is alternately connected to the terminals of the stator winding, and the wire from the current source is connected to its body (the lamp should not light up). But if it turns on, this means that short circuits are occurring in it.

Generator bearings VAZ 2110 (2112, 2111, 2115) - how to replace them yourself

Replacing a VAZ 2110 generator bearing with your own hands is an operation that should be performed by every average motorist independently , since a car service center will charge from 2,000 rubles for such a service.

A generator is a device for renewing energy in a car, converting mechanical energy into electrical energy. On VAZs, generators require increased attention during operation. Problematic elements of the mechanism: terminals, stator winding, brushes, pulley, armature, as well as bearings.

The design of the VAZ 2110 (2114, 2112, 2111, 2115) generator has two bearings - rear and front, wear of which occurs in case of long-term use of the car, as well as when exposed to internal and external factors.

After reading the material, you will be convinced that this type of repair, such as replacing bearings in a VAZ generator, does not require specialized tools, as well as the experience and knowledge of a professional car mechanic. First, we will carry out competent diagnostics according to the instructions, then we will carry out the correct selection of new parts and replace them. All activities are described in detail in this article.

Replacing crankshaft liners VAZ-2107

Remove the hood and battery

Drain the oil from the engine (see Changing the VAZ-2107 engine oil).

Drain the coolant (see Replacing the coolant in a VAZ-2107).

We remove the radiator together with the thermostat (see VAZ-2107 radiator replacement).

Remove the carburetor (see Replacing the VAZ-2107 carburetor).

Remove the fuel pump.

Remove the ignition distributor (see Ignition distributor VAZ-2107 repair).

Having sketched the connection order, disconnect the hoses and wires from the engine.

To make it easier to dismantle the engine, remove the cylinder head (see Replacing the VAZ-2107 head gasket).

Remove the coolant pump (see Replacing the VAZ-2107 coolant pump).

We unscrew the upper or lower nuts securing the engine mount (see Replacing the VAZ-2107 engine mount).

We unscrew the bolts securing the clutch housing to the engine.

1. Fasten the lifting device cables to the block and lift it.

By placing a jack under the gearbox and slightly rocking the block, we disconnect the engine and clutch housing.

We install the cylinder block on the stand.

We remove the clutch. Remove the pulley, camshaft drive cover, chain and oil pump drive gear. Remove the auxiliary drive shaft.

Remove the flywheel and the rear crankshaft cuff holder (see Replacing the rear crankshaft cuff).

2. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the fourteen bolts securing the oil pan to the cylinder block...

3...and remove it along with the sealing gasket. We remove the oil pump (see Oil pump removal and disassembly VAZ-2107)

Using a 14mm socket, unscrew the two nuts securing the connecting rod cover

Using the wooden handle of the hammer against the connecting rod, we push the piston out of the cylinder.

Similarly, remove the remaining three pistons.

Using a 17mm socket, unscrew the two bolts securing the crankshaft main bearing cover...

In the same way, remove the remaining four main bearing caps.

They are marked with marks corresponding to their serial number (count from the toe of the crankshaft).

On the last (fifth) cover there are two marks stamped, spaced along the edges.

Marks on the main bearing caps

We remove the crankshaft.

From the grooves in the bed of the fifth main bearing, we remove two half rings of the crankshaft thrust bearing.

The steel-aluminum liners installed in the beds of the 1st, 2nd, 4th and 5th main bearings have a groove.

The shell of the 3rd bearing does not have a groove (similar to the shells installed in the main bearing caps).

We disassemble the crankshaft (see Disassembling the crankshaft of a VAZ-2107).

Replacing bearings

To remove the generator on a VAZ 2110 car, you must perform the following operations:

disconnect the positive terminal of the battery; release the belt tensioning mechanism and remove the belt, to do this, unscrew the fixing nut 13 and unscrew the bolt 10 of the tensioner mechanism;

disconnect the generator wires; Unscrew the lower mount of the generator, remove the bolt and remove it from the car.

Now that the generator has been removed, you can begin disassembling it. First you need to remove the pulley, for which you unscrew its nut by 24. This can be done either using an impact wrench, or by holding the pulley in a vice and wrapping it with two or three old belts.

Unscrew the pulley nut and pull it off the generator axle. To do this, you will need a two- or three-legged puller of a suitable size, which can be purchased at any automotive market. After the pulley is removed, you can disassemble the generator housing, having first removed the voltage regulator with brush holder, diode rectifier and capacitor, which are hidden under a plastic cover.

To disassemble the generator housing, you need to unscrew the 4 screws that hold its halves together. Usually the screws become stuck during the life of the generator, so it is recommended to fill them with some kind of liquid like WD-40 before disassembling. After unscrewing the screws, remove the front cover of the generator, which contains the front 303 bearing. At the factory, when installing the bearing, the generator housing cover will be rolled to securely fasten it, so you will need to select a mandrel according to the diameter of the bearing seat, on which to rest the housing cover and knock it out or press it out from the back side.

Having selected a mandrel according to the diameter of the outer race of the bearing, hammer it into place. If the bearing has been replaced several times and its seat in the cover is broken, it must be replaced. The new cover is sold with the bearing already installed. If it is necessary to replace the rear bearing, then continue disassembling the generator by removing the stator with windings from the generator, then using your fingers to push out the plastic support of the rear bearing and remove it from the generator rotor. After removing the support, access to the rear bearing will open. To remove it you will need the same puller as for the generator pulley

Having pulled off the old bearing, press in a new one using a mandrel of the diameter of the inner race of the bearing. ATTENTION! In this case, hitting the outer race of the bearing is prohibited! This significantly reduces its service life. Clamping the rotor in a vice by the axis is prohibited! Scores on it will interfere with the assembly of the generator

If the bearing is installed without the help of a hydraulic press, the rotor must be supported with its axle on a wooden surface, preferably having first screwed a nut onto the pulley mounting thread to prevent damage. After pressing on the new bearing, reassemble the generator in the reverse order and install it on the car, connect the wiring, and then tension the belt

Before installing the old belt, check its condition and replace it if necessary.

The belt is tensioned according to the following algorithm:

with the fixing nut on 13 of the generator belt tension mechanism loosened, tighten the tensioner bolt with a 10 wrench until the belt, when pressed with a force of 10 kgf, sags by 10-15 cm;
Tighten the generator fixing nut.

ATTENTION! Retightening the alternator belt is unacceptable! This threatens rapid failure of its bearings and severe wear of the belt and pulleys (crankshaft and generator). At this operation, the process of replacing the generator bearings can be considered complete. At this operation, the process of replacing the generator bearings can be considered complete

At this operation, the process of replacing the generator bearings can be considered complete.

To summarize, it should be emphasized that you should not delay replacing bearings. In addition to the unpleasant sound, untimely replacement of bearings can lead to their destruction, wedge and, as a result, failure of the generator.

In some cases, the generator cannot be repaired, and a new one costs much more than the bearings and the time spent replacing them. New bearings solve the problem of generator noise and significantly extend its service life.

Removing and installing the generator - step-by-step procedure:

1. As always, first of all, remove the wire from the “–” terminal from the battery.

3. Disconnect the plug with wires from the connector on the generator marked “D”.

4. Next, you need to move the rubber cap, unscrew the nut and remove the wires with the terminal from the contact bolt (marked “B+”).

5. Remove the tension bolt securing the electric generator from the front.

6. Completely remove the nut that is attached to the top.

7. Remove the threaded tension sleeve.

8. Now proceed to the lower mounting of the generator - completely unscrew the nut with a wrench.

9. Now you can remove the spacer sleeve.

10. Next, carefully holding the electrical equipment with one hand and with the other, remove the last mounting bolt and remove the car generator.

Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

The need to repair a generator unit may arise for various reasons. As practice shows, the most common of them are failed brushes or bearings. Read below about repairing these components.

Brush replacement procedure

Replacement of VAZ generator brushes is carried out as follows:

First of all, you need to release the three latches on the device’s body, on its sides. These latches secure the cover to the mechanism.
The cover itself can be detached and put aside. This will allow you to access the regulator.
There are two bolts on the regulator that secure the device - they need to be unscrewed. Then pull the regulator and remove it.
Assess the condition of the brushes - if they are working, then the length of these elements should be at least 0.5 cm. If their size is smaller, then you have two options - either repair it by replacing the brushes, or change the device assembly. If repairs are being made, you will need a soldering iron since the brush assembly is soldered to the relay. First, you need to unsolder the wires connected to the brushes, and then dismantle the assembly, replacing it with a new one and securely soldering it to the relay contacts. Or you simply change the relay, and further assemble the device in the reverse order (the author of the video is the IZO channel)))LENTA).

How to change bearings yourself?

To replace the bearings, follow these steps:

On the dismantled generator, you need to block the rotor; to do this, use a screwdriver, then unscrew the pulley.
Next, by pulling the latches, you need to remove the device casing. You need to make marks on the two halves of the case, and then, using a screwdriver, you will need to remove the front cover.
Then you will need to knock the bearing out of its seat; to do this, you will need to place it on a more suitable object. Alternatively, you can use a 27mm socket.
After this, you can take a new bearing device and fill it with grease. This element should be hammered through the old one. To make the device more securely fixed at the installation site, you can use a chisel to flare the edges.
Now let's move on to the rear bearing. To do this, you need to place either a thick screwdriver or a thin chisel under it, and hit the top several times with a hammer, while simultaneously moving the screwdriver in the opposite direction. The device can be dismantled using an open-end wrench.

Renault Megane › Logbook › Replacing generator bearings and installing generator pulley 2110

AHTUNG! IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED TO REPLACE THE ORIGINAL PULLEY WITH A VAZ PULLEY! (except to wait 100 km before the service) DUE TO THE ABSENCE OF AN OVERAGGING CLUTCH, THE BELT WILL OCCUR AND BE DESTROYED, WITH THE SUBSEQUENT TIGHTENING OF THE FRAGMENTS UNDER THE TIMING DRIVE STAR

This means that the rustling noise from under the hood completely bothered me, I even began to suspect the release valve... However, the smell of burnt rubber in traffic jams convinced me to turn my attention to the generator, its bearings and pulley. I took off the belt of the additional equipment and pronounced the verdict - generator bearings. It was lunch time, I removed the generator, brought it to the workshop and began to disassemble it. I’ll say right away, the generator is BOSCH.

The first obstacle was removing the pulley from the generator shaft. During creative searches, the following device was invented:

A 27mm nut is inserted inside the nut, then a 8mm hexagon is inserted into the shaft, the hexagon is held with a wrench or socket, and the nut is turned counterclockwise and unscrewed in this way. In this case, the generator must be gently clamped in a vice (and not as in my picture). The nut is unscrewed and the pulley is removed. During this procedure, I realized that I had also hit the pulley. Because it had a lot of play in the radial plane, and touched the generator housing, even rubbing small grooves from below.

Next comes the disassembly of the generator, unscrew everything that can be unscrewed from below (or behind) - positive contacts, cover, diode bridge, relay regulator with brushes, removed and placed nearby. Although actually it is not a relay as such, but a circuit with 3 transistors, but for brevity, let it be the old-fashioned relay regulator.

Next, the 4 bolts holding the generator halves together are unscrewed, and the lower (rear) part with the diode bridge is removed from the rotor. You can help yourself a little with a screwdriver, there is some force there, but not much.

Next you need to unscrew the 4 countersunk screws from the pulley side. They secure the front bearing thrust plate. After this, we take a three-legged puller of a suitable size, grab it under the front cover with its paws, rest against the shaft, and pull the cover off the bearing.

After this we will have a picture like this

Replacement process detailed instructions

We will look at options with 8- and 16-valve engines, which are present in the VAZ 2112 and 2110 models. Regardless of the number of valves, the same set of tools will be required for replacement. The list includes standard tools that can be found in almost every driver's garage.

Timing belt for VAZ 2110 16 valves

In addition to the timing belt itself and the roller for the VAZ 2110 or 2112, you will need:

a special key that regulates the degree of tension of the roller;
spanner set to “17”;
key to “15”;
key to “10”;
installation, as an alternative - a powerful screwdriver.

Replacement on an 8-valve engine

Replacing the VAZ 2110 8 valve timing belt is as follows:

First of all, we de-energize the battery - for this you need to get the negative wire;
We unscrew the bolts that hold the timing belt protective casing, and then remove the casing;
On the passenger side, it is necessary to remove the engine compartment mudguard along with the protective element and the right wheel;
Our task is to ensure that the marks on the cover and, accordingly, on the pulley match, as indicated in all the diagrams. To do this, you need to twist the part clockwise;
We go to the gearbox and remove the plug from it;
We need to check the alignment of the marks in this hole;
We block the flywheel - for this you can use a mounting tool or a powerful screwdriver;
Now you can remove the timing generator pulley;
We got to the nut that holds the timing belt pulley - it needs to be loosened, but not unscrewed;
Now we have reached the required element of the VAZ 2110 or 2112 timing belt. Now it can be removed. All parts that it covered must be cleaned with detergent. After removing dirt, the area should be wiped with a clean rag;
Next, a new timing belt and tensioner roller are installed - follow the direction indicated on the arrow. Sometimes it happens that the manufacturer does not indicate the arrows, in which case, you need to place the element so that the inscription is read from left to right;
To tension, you need to turn the roller counterclockwise.
The next step is to test the timing belt and its tension. You need to check the element with a cold engine, and the temperature in the garage or box should be within +15-+30C. We start the engine and inspect the timing belt.

If there are no unnecessary sounds or vibrations, then all the elements can be installed back - these are the wheel, casing and mudguard.

Replacement on a 16-valve engine

Despite the fact that there are more valves, replacing the timing belt is no more difficult than on the version with 8 valves. So, replacing the VAZ 2110 16 valve timing belt is performed as follows:

As in the case of the VAZ 2110 or 2112, where there are 8 valves, we need to dismantle the belt protection. It is held in place by 6 bolts.
Next, you need to remove the chip from the crankshaft sensor - unscrew the mount and take out the sensor itself. For clarity, you can study the photo.
If you dismantle the gas distribution mechanism yourself, then you probably noticed the absence of one tooth. This is done so that the sensor can independently find the dead center. This feature can also be used to lock the crankshaft.
Blocking can be done when a tube of a suitable size is placed in the hole under the sensor. Now the pulley is blocked, as a result, it can be safely dismantled.
Next, the work scheme is practically no different from removing the 8-valve timing mechanism with your own hands - loosen the roller fastening and remove the faulty or worn belt.
There are two ways to install a new element: remove the tension roller and then install the belt along with it, or do it by turning the camshaft.
When the new element is installed, you can return everything to its original position. You should start by fastening the pulley - tighten the bolt and align the gear - the marks on the oil pump will help with this. If they are missing, then you can make a mark yourself.
The parts must be combined carefully, since the timing gear should not get knocked out.
Using a special wrench, we must tighten the belt. Not everyone has such a wrench, but as an alternative you can always take a powerful screwdriver and two nails. It is also worth remembering the nut, which must be tightened tightly.
We check the tension; the rubber should move away from the gears, but there should be no folds.
All that remains is to turn the crankshaft 2 times and make sure that the marks remain in the same place - the work is completed

Check the gas distribution mechanism every 10 thousand kilometers, and then you will not have to spend money on expensive repairs.

Functions

VAZ 2110 pulley unscrewed in the generator

A faulty pulley leads to various generator malfunctions, since it performs the following important functions:

 Firstly, it is a kind of generator protection. While the car is moving, the crankshaft is also in constant motion. This leads to small fluctuations being formed. Acting on the generator, such vibrations would lead to its breakdown. Fortunately, the pulley carefully protects him from this.

VAZ 2110 generator pulley

Note: this element is completely stationary. Despite this, it affects all components of the generator.

In particular, thanks to it, even the belt stops oscillating with the previous force.
The belt stretches less, so it will function longer. Therefore, if the pulley is not replaced in time, the belt may break.
The belt drive is much quieter.
The pulley is capable of unloading the generator at high speeds. In this case, less load will be placed on the engine.
By using a good pulley, the battery will not drain too quickly. Therefore, the car will work longer.
By changing the generator pulley, the gear ratio will also change. As a result, at idle the generator will spin much slower, so it will not produce anything, and gasoline consumption, among other things, will be significantly less.

Causes of breakdowns

VAZ 2110 generator drive pulley

The generator pulley breaks quite often, so in order to protect your car from such a nuisance, you should know the main reasons why this happens:

The generator pulley, as well as its inner ring, are not hardened during the manufacturing process. Therefore, they are very fragile parts, which is why they can be damaged even with minor impacts.

Note: You must comply with all requirements for its operation. It is very important that it is well attached, since a slight play can also lead to its destruction.

 Usually there are shallow scratches on its surface (often they appear at the production stage). In fact, they do not affect its operation in any way. However, if these scratches “grow,” the pulley will have to be replaced.

Fastening the generator pulley VAZ 2110

When installing it in place, you need to remember that the tightening torque of the product to the generator must be within 80 Nm. If this is neglected, the pulley will wobble.

Note: Tightening must also occur in a specific direction.

How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley on a VAZ-2112 16 valves

If you are faced with the problem of how to unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt, this article is for you. We will describe this process in detail so that you can quickly and easily remove the crankshaft pulley and then begin repairing it.

A knowledgeable motorist usually spends no more than a quarter of an hour on the process of dismantling the crankshaft pulley. But inexperienced drivers, when trying to remove this part on their own, are faced with many problems that they often simply cannot solve. The instructions for carrying out repair work and maintenance of any modern vehicle contain comprehensive information about the dismantling process, but, unfortunately, it does not help car enthusiasts.

First of all, difficulties arise with fixing the crankshaft. It is very difficult to dismantle it if the part is constantly rotating, “slipping” out of your hands. It is also not clear to many from which side to approach the bolt that holds the pulley. And its strong tightening usually makes the process of removing the unit very, very difficult, since dismantling under such conditions is fraught with damage to the body covering or elements of the car’s engine compartment.

This is done specifically to avoid self-unwinding of this part during vehicle operation. If a bolt (nut) falls out while driving, it will not be easy to bring the car back to life in order to continue driving it, and the repair itself will cost, believe me, a pretty penny. In addition, the described fasteners increase their tightening level independently when the engine is running. And the final “indestructibility” of the bolt is given by the phenomena of coking, sticking, and corrosion.

How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt - solving the problem

The pulleys of front-wheel drive cars are usually secured with a bolt. In such vehicles, the pulley is oriented perpendicular to the axis of the machine, which, of course, complicates repair work (it is very difficult to get to the fastening). In order to unscrew the bolt as quickly and easily as possible, it is advisable to prepare in advance:

set of auto tools;
the so-called “stump” (or “tragus”);
car jack;
head (socket) with a lever and extension (the head must be selected according to the size of the bolt).

The process with these devices is as follows:

remove the wheel (of course, before doing this you need to lift the front right part of the car with a jack);
we install the vehicle on the “stump”;
remove the engine shield, which protects it from dirt, the air filter (they are located on the top side of the hood) and the generator belt;
open the plug on the clutch block so that you can fix the crankshaft, and wedge the flywheel teeth using a pry bar;
We put the head on the bolt and begin to unscrew it (if it does not give in, we slowly increase the length of the lever).

Possible faults

If it fails (beating and deformation, cracks and tears), the VAZ crankshaft pulley will most likely need to be replaced. After that, we get behind the wheel, ask the nervous neighbors in the garage to leave and start the car with a quick movement of the key. The starter should not turn for more than a split second. To do this, you need to open the clutch housing ventilation plug. To do this job correctly, you will need a torque wrench. As soon as the sensor shows a tightening torque of 400 N/meter, no further force is allowed. Don't forget to tighten the generator mounting bolts and reconnect the connector on the ignition coil.

If installed incorrectly, it may fall out, which will cause the hub to rotate. In case of lubricant leakage from under the crankshaft oil seal. When removing the crankshaft - for repair work, changing bearings, etc.

The complexity of this operation lies in the difficulty of dismantling and the problematic installation of new cuffs, instead of worn rubber bands, which become deformed over time and no longer perform their functions. In the manual for VAZ cars, this operation is described very concisely, since the algorithm itself is simple and should be easily implemented. The pulley we need is located under the hood of the car, where there is not much space. Usually this part is located behind the generator, near the body elements. We hope our tips will be useful and you can easily disconnect the crankshaft pulley.

For what? So that he doesn't accidentally get out. If unscrewing occurs, you will face serious damage and expensive repairs. As the motor operates, the tightening force gradually increases.

To remove it, you need to get under the car and try to unscrew the element with a wrench and extension. All materials on the site CARNOVATO.RU were written specifically for this web resource and are the intellectual property of the administrator.

The location of the pulley in the engine compartment is inconvenient for work. It is hidden behind the generator and access to it is limited by elements of the body structure. During engine operation, the right-hand mounting thread further strengthens the clamping force. In the absence of such devices, this problem can be solved by installing reliable stops under the wheels and setting the 4th speed of the manual transmission.

Damage to the ring gear leads to unstable operation of the motor. If the movements are small, then the ECU does not display an error on the instrument panel, but at the same time the engine at idle is unstable and “troits.” However, in a 16-valve engine, assessing the position of the mark through the box window is extremely inconvenient. Using the depth gauge, set TDC (accuracy of about 10 degrees) and check the coincidence with the marks on the camshaft.

The described fasteners increase their tightening level independently when the engine is running. And the final “indestructibility” of the bolt is given by the phenomena of coking, sticking, and corrosion.

Removing a pulley is a difficulty in itself, even for a specialist, let alone a beginner.

What to do if the nut does not budge? The nut should come off easily on the first try.

It is better to do the work above the inspection hole. If this is not possible, then it is better to use a jack and definitely a tree stump (better to be safe). When the requirements are met, it is necessary to turn the ignition key to give short-term pulses. Sometimes the nut fits so tightly that you can’t get it off the first time.

It is better to do the work above the inspection hole. The crankshaft should be secured by placing the gearbox in 4th gear and applying the parking brake. Don't forget to loosen and remove the alternator belt.

It is done independently without the presence of an assistant. To prevent the engine from starting, you can remove the fuel supply hose from the fuel pump to the carburetor if it is a carburetor engine, or the hose entering the fuel rail if the engine is injection.

Despite the fact that this method, as they say, “the Ministry of Health does not recommend,” I still advise you not to look for complicated ways, but to do the following. Remove any terminal from the battery. This will eliminate the risk of accidentally turning on the starter. After this, your assistant gets behind the wheel, engages 4th gear, and, without pressing the clutch, presses on the brake.

Removing the generator, replacing the pulley and reinstalling it

The article describes in detail the procedure for removing and installing a car generator, as well as replacing the pulley.

A car generator is used to convert mechanical energy into electricity when the vehicle is moving. This current serves as a spark exciter at the spark plugs to ignite the fuel in the engine cylinders, it recharges the car's battery while it is moving, and also allows all electrical equipment in the car to operate.

As you can see, this is a very important mechanism for the electrical equipment of the entire iron “friend”. In case of the slightest malfunction, the generator should be repaired immediately, and to do this, it must first be removed, and then reinstalled - installation, which we will show how this is done correctly using the example of a VAZ 2110 car. On other VAZ models, the procedure is similar and not difficult. To repair this mechanism, you will definitely need a diagram of a car generator, it is presented there for the VAZ 2106 and 2110, as well as the principle of operation.

GENERATOR REPAIR

The generator is a fairly complex and high-precision unit. Special equipment is required for its disassembly, troubleshooting and assembly. Therefore, if you do not have the skills for such work, if the generator fails, we recommend that you contact a specialized workshop to repair it or replace the generator assembly.

You will need: socket heads or socket wrenches “12” and “24”, screwdrivers with flat and Phillips blades, soldering iron, tester, puller for

rotor bearing, hammer.

1. Remove the generator from the car (see “Removing and installing the generator”).

2. Clamp the generator pulley in a vice through the old belt...

3. ...and unscrew the pulley mounting nut.

4. Remove the generator from the vice and remove the pulley from the rotor shaft.

The generator pulley is prevented from turning the rotor shaft only due to frictional forces after tightening the nut securing it to the required torque. There is no key in the connection.

5. Mark in any way (for example, with a marker) the relative positions of the stator and generator covers to ensure alignment of the holes for attaching the generator in the legs of the covers during reassembly.

LADA 2109 › Logbook › 17. Replacing the Damper pulley and crankshaft gear

Let me briefly remind you of what I wrote in the last entry. It's been 2 days since I replaced the timing belt and the car refused to drive at speeds above 2000 rpm. More precisely, it was driving, but when the revolutions rose above 2000, it began to twitch and the Niva did not drive. The bortovik showed an error - incorrect DPKV signal. On the side of the road, having checked the DPKV chip and wires (at one time they were blowing my mind!) I realized that something was wrong here and decided to leave it as is until the morning. In the morning I decided to check my favorite sore! Crankshaft gear pin! And how he looked into the water! Once again it was torn off. More precisely, it broke halfway, but due to the fact that I also drove a self-tapping screw there, to be sure, the damper pulley did not turn due to this.

Having removed the old damper, I thought that the gear would have to be crushed again, like last time, but everything turned out to be good! And the gear came off thanks to gentle rocking.

replaced the gear, key, hammered the pin and put it all together! In order to tighten the crankshaft bolt, I had to call a neighbor, pressing the brake and holding it - in the meantime, I was tightening the bolt! He stated his conscience. After shaking it I realized that the damper doesn’t swing like it did with the old broken one! Well, now I think I’ll forget about this disease for a long time! At the same time, while the generator was removed, I decided to replace the generator belt. I took a Dayko company, it was just an old one that was already cracked! Having collected everything, I did a test run!

The engine runs smoothly... the dips at 2000 disappeared (as was to be expected) The overall result, as I did for myself, is that it’s because of the old, battered damper, which drank so much of my blood! And there were all these breakdowns! Now I think I’ll forget how to climb there for a long time))))

Replacing the generator drive pulley on front-wheel drive VAZ and Lada cars

The main reasons for replacing a pulley are damage to the ring gear or delamination of the pulley itself.

Such damage is easily diagnosed by the lack of rotation of the alternator belt.