The starter works every once in a while

Whether the VAZ-2109 will start or not depends on the correct operation of the starter. A starter malfunction may consist of either a breakdown of the unit itself or wear of individual elements of the electrical circuit. We propose to consider a breakdown when the starter does not turn and the retraction relay also does not work, what are the reasons for such features of the car’s functioning and how to eliminate them.

The starter on the VAZ-2110 does not start, does not turn or click: what to do?

The main task of the starter in a VAZ-2110 car is to start the rotation of the crankshaft so that the operation of the fuel system begins.
When the driver turns the ignition key and the car does not start, he has to look for the reason why the starter does not work. Although the operation of this unit is necessary only in the first seconds of starting the car, it cannot be done without it. Initial diagnostics can be performed without the use of instruments by assessing the performance of the starter on the battery. But it is possible to fully analyze the operation of the VAZ-2110 starter only if you have special measuring instruments. Once a breakdown is detected, you can think about further repair actions.

Diagnostics

The main load during starter operation falls on the relay. When a VAZ-2110 cannot start, they say that the starter does not turn or click, meaning the functionality of the solenoid relay, which in normal condition should make clicks. Such problems often appear in the following situations:

The rotor “mass” is in contact with the positive charge of the stator.
The roller or bushing on the electric motor has jammed and stopped rotating.
A short circuit has occurred between the stator and rotor windings.

Without removing the housing from the starter, these causes cannot be found and eliminated. The click that every driver often hears is created by the mobility of the core between the windings.

The first of them retracts the core for fixation, and the second must hold it in a certain position. When the voltage on the holding winding is insufficient, the core returns to its original position. Every click heard by the driver is an unsuccessful attempt to fix the core. In this situation, the retractor relay clicks, but the starter does not turn, and the car remains in place.

In addition to the traction relay, the cause may be hidden in burnt contacts; it is easy to detect by the unpleasant smell in the car interior. This also sometimes occurs due to a discharged battery. For each case, the solution to the problem is selected individually.

Checking parts for operability and their repair, replacement

Repairing starter elements should only be done in emergency cases. For example, if the part you need is no longer produced or is out of stock, in other cases it is better to buy a new spare part, since their prices are not high.

If the height of the brushes is less than 12 millimeters, then they need to be changed. There should be no damage or burnt areas on the starter windings. If they are present, replacement is required.

If there is play between the end of the shaft and the bottom of the starter, the shaft must be replaced. Also, the distance between these elements should not be more than half a centimeter.

The anchor should not have carbon deposits. If there is one, you need to sand it with sandpaper. If there is carbon deposits, the entire part needs to be replaced. Otherwise, after assembly, the starter will work only once. If the bearings have play, they definitely need to be replaced. This part is not repairable. If the solenoid relay is faulty, replace it.

The clutch only rotates in one direction. If it rotates in both directions, replacement is required.

If the cylinder fork is worn out and damaged, replace it. After replacing all faulty parts, the starter needs to be assembled. It needs to be carried out back to the parsing process, but you need to know some small tips:

It is necessary to lubricate the bearings, bendix and armature shaft;
Do not overtighten the nuts and bolts, as this will cause the threads to break.

The starter is an important element of the car’s power unit, so you should not delay its repair.

Sources

https://carnovato.ru/starter-vaz-2106-ustrojstvo-zamena-snjatie/
https://cartore.ru/337-kak-proverit-starter-vaz-2106.html
https://vashalada.ru/mashiny/vaz-2106/vaz-2106-remont-startera-svoimi-rukami.html

The starter clicks but does not turn on a VAZ 2110: what to do?

If your starter is faulty, then it is impossible to start the car, so urgent repair of this unit or its replacement is necessary. In this case, it is often quite problematic to deliver it to the nearest service station, so it is best to learn how to do the repairs yourself. Owners of the VAZ-2110 should learn how to restore performance on their own, this will reduce the cost of car maintenance.

Why doesn't the starter turn over?

Depending on what caused the starter to fail, it is necessary to take the next steps - repair or replace the unit. In addition, in some cases, you do not need to repair the starting device itself, but manipulate other components. In most cases, you can get by with repairs, but experienced car enthusiasts recommend immediately replacing the unit so that there are no more problems with it.

Most VAZ-2110s do not have a standard injector, but many car enthusiasts install this unit themselves. It helps reduce fuel consumption, helps start the engine in cold weather without warming up and increases power. The injector fails, and along with it the starter, due to low-quality fuel. Another reason may be failure to follow the connection diagram, but then you will discover a malfunction immediately after installing the injector. Otherwise, you need to flush the injector to remove any suspended matter that is carried into it by the fuel.
If the car starts, but after a short stop the engine cannot be restarted, then the problem lies in the overrunning clutch. At the moment of failure, you may hear clicking sounds from under the hood and notice that the car radio begins to turn on by itself. In this case, you need to cool the power unit before restarting or not make short stops. You will also need to replace the overrunning clutch with its geared counterpart. Be sure to check the conductors that come from this node. Sometimes, to restore the functionality of the coupling, it is enough to replace the wires that visually look damaged.
The retractor part of the starter especially often fails. When such a breakdown occurs, the dashboard lights first light up and then go out. Before replacing the solenoid relay, you must close the starter and turn off the alarm. If the listed components are in working order, then you will simply have to replace the relay.
Clicking sounds in the starter and failure to start the engine are often caused by damaged contacts. In this case, first inspect the battery, clean the terminals if oxide appears on them. Sometimes on a VAZ-2110 it is enough to tap the starter relay to get rid of the problem. Be sure to take an assistant with you who will start the engine while you tap the relay. If with such a rough approach it was possible to start the engine, then it is worth replacing the relay completely. Repair will be impractical.

Forced starting of the starter by closing the contacts

In order to put knowledge into practice, you will need the help of a partner (preferably) and a long screwdriver or wrench. The idea is that the metal base of the tool needs to close the power contacts of the starter and apply voltage to its winding directly.

Before starting work, it is extremely important to check the gear shift lever. It should be in a neutral position. The handbrake lever should be raised and locked as much as possible.

A spark may occur

Alternative methods (if there is no key)

In addition to this method, there are several more. One of them involves starting the starter from the passenger compartment. To do this, you will need to remove the plastic panel located under the steering wheel of the car. Separate the bundle of wires going to the ignition switch from it.

Disassembling the steering column mechanism

First of all, we are interested in the wire going to ground (black or green, sometimes yellow with a black stripe). You can correctly determine whether it is correct or not using a multimeter. To do this, the tip is connected to the one we are interested in, the second to the body of the machine. A zero on the device screen will confirm that this is the correct wire. Its stripped end is isolated and moved to the side.

Power on the VAZ-2114 car is supplied by a red or yellow wire, but it is best to check this with a multimeter.

The one responsible for the starter is determined as follows: the power wire is closed with the remaining ones. The one from which the mechanism will work and will be its supply wire.

The remaining beam is connected to the positive one, after which it is struck with the “starter” one. If determined correctly, the engine should start. It is extremely important when starting in this way, not to short-circuit the wires for a long time, as this will discharge very quickly.

Important! When starting the starter, the car must be in neutral and have the handbrake applied.

Push launch (classic)

The starter spins for a long time before starting

VAZ 2110 starter does not turn, clicks: causes of malfunction

All cars use a starter to spin the crankshaft when starting the engine. The power of this device allows the crankshaft to overcome compression in the cylinders and frictional forces. If the starter does not turn, then the engine cannot start, as a result, the car stands still. For a motorist, the worst situation occurs when, when turning the key, he hears clicking sounds in the power plant or silence.

By the “silence” of the engine it is impossible to determine what exactly is not working. It’s good if it’s a starter, since repairing or replacing it won’t be as expensive as repairing a VAZ 2110 engine. There can be many problems with this element; this article contains the main faults and ways to solve them. If you want to repair or replace it yourself, then this will require a connection diagram, since the starter is an electrical device.

It's not an easy task, but it can be done

You are lucky if the previous owners of your car were lazy people. And you're doubly lucky if you're on the thin side. Of course, the ground clearance of our cars, in particular the VAZ 2101, is so high that the average citizen from the great states can easily get under the car. But still, jokes aside, repairs need to be carried out. Why was all this said? The lower nut... Yes, the lower nut for securing the starter on the classic is just a godsend, a true achievement of domestic engineering. What's wrong with it? But the fact is that it is almost impossible to unscrew it with spanners or open-end wrenches!

Bendinx is an indispensable starter unit; it is with its help that motion is transmitted from the rotor to the crankshaft

Of course, there is always a way out. In the manual you will read literally the following:

Unscrew the nut using a 13mm socket, cardan and extension.

A question for all car owners immediately appears. Do they all have a cardan and an extension? From personal experience I can say that unscrewing this unfortunate nut on the starter took quite a lot of time. Well, there was (and still is not) either a cardan or an extension cord. What can I say, I still change the clutch with a hammer, chisel, open-end wrenches, as well as various materials and organs. The toad is a very strong freshwater animal, it can literally strangle.

But back to the penny starter and my personal experience. What can I say and advise? You can remove the nut with a spanner or open-end wrench. The scheme of action is simple, you can turn it 5-10 degrees.

But you can't remove the starter that easily. He also used a cunning method - he placed the open-end wrench at a right angle relative to the nut. With a suitable object he scrolled through it. Yes, it helped, I removed and installed the starter. But after a couple of removals, I simply hammered it on this nut, and did the right thing. Apparently, the Zhiguli engineers simply had an extra nut left, they just didn’t know where to shove it. We found a place. Well done. All?

The lengthy tale of misadventures is over, the top nuts are much easier to unscrew. Just remember to disconnect the battery before starting work - just remove the negative terminal. And also disconnect the wires from the retractor so that they do not interfere with removal.

Safety block, wires, terminal blocks

The so-called black box of the motorist, in which fuses and relays are located, quite rightly comes into question in such situations. A short circuit or simply stagnation of contacts may occur in the block. Experienced motorists recommend not hitting the block too hard, this really helps.

If that doesn’t help, find the terminal blocks with the power wires and clean them thoroughly from oxides. Then carefully solder everything.

You can also test the ignition switch and clean the chips whose wires go to the starter. It is better to replace the nuts on the terminals with brass ones to make contact better.

Solenoid relay diagnostics

The malfunction of the VAZ 2107 starter, regarding clicks and refusal to turn, may lie in the relay. The relay is connected using two cables that go to the ignition switch and to the battery. One cable is connected to the battery terminal (+), the other to the ignition terminal (+). There is another wire that connects the relay to the starter drive.

To identify the cause of the breakdown of the solenoid relay, you need to use a jumper with which to connect both terminals. The connection itself should be made using a regular screwdriver or other convenient tool. It is important that the jumper does not touch other metal surfaces when making a connection.

Starter and retractor

It was said above that the first thing to check is the solenoid relay. However, it is no less important to test the starter itself, especially if the above checks did not yield anything. The best remedy is to install a known working starter and check how everything works.

Thus, it becomes clear why the starter starts every other time. The reason for this is either the contacts, the fuses, or the starter itself.

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The wiring diagram for hatchbacks 2112 is a unique thing in itself. In order for voltage to appear on the solenoid relay, the following parts must be in good working order: the ignition switch, the ECU unit and two more relays - the main and additional ones. Some cars do not have an additional relay, which can be considered good luck. But, if when you turn the key on a VAZ-2112 the starter does not turn, then the fault must be looked for in the wiring. A broken immobilizer code can also cause problems. The last malfunction can be cured by replacing the ECU or disabling the immobilizer. Well, let's look at something simpler.

Example in the video: the immobilizer was damaged and the starter stopped working.

Starter device, principle of its operation

The starter of the VAZ-2114 car (factory index - 5712.3708) is a DC power electric motor, additionally equipped with an overrunning clutch with a gear (Bendix) and a retractor relay.

The principle of its operation is very simple: when the ignition is turned on, voltage is supplied to the solenoid relay. Due to the creation of a magnetic field in it, the armature connected to the plug is retracted.

This fork moves the bendix along the rotor shaft of the electric motor and engages the gear with the flywheel ring gear.

In this case, the armature, fully entering the relay, closes the contacts, and voltage is already supplied to the electric motor itself, which is switched on.

The task of the overrunning clutch is also to protect the electric motor. After starting the power plant, the rotation speed of the flywheel significantly exceeds the speed of the gear. It turns out the opposite effect - the flywheel turns the gear.

And so that the force is not transmitted back, after exceeding the speed of rotation of the electric motor, the gear begins to rotate freely on the shaft until the driver turns off the power to the retractor relay, after which the spring returns the bendix to its original position, disengaging the gear.

All features of the standard scheme

The reader will be surprised, but there will be more than one scheme here. The most difficult option is shown below.

Scheme with additional starter relay

Please note: relay K2 is not “unloading” at all. A significant current flows through the lock contacts, and relay K2 can be called “blocking”: when it does not work, the starter does not turn. Why is this necessary, think for yourself.

If an attacker closes the contacts in the lock, he will not only be unable to start the engine, but also not use the starter. That is, the hijacker will not drain our battery.

The circuit shown above is used with 1.6 liter injection engines. There may be another option - a simpler one.

Scheme without additional relay

There is no blocking relay here. The current flows to the solenoid relay from pin 50. A simple version of the circuit is typical for cars from early years of production. Which applies to the entire “Ten” family, including hatchbacks. That is, an interesting combination occurs: the model is VAZ-2112, and the starter will turn even in the absence of all relays and ECUs!

The starter doesn't turn, what happens?

We know that there are two variants of the scheme. If “option 2” is implemented, voltage to the starter is supplied directly from the lock. But the ignition switch in the “Tens” is short-lived, since 30-40 Amperes are transmitted through it (the current of the solenoid relay). This is true for both the sedan and the 2112 hatchback, and the starter may not turn only because the lock is broken. Draw your conclusions!

All of the above also applies to “diagram 1” - look at it carefully.

The main relay is located in the extension block. It is located under the stove on the right. An additional relay is located in the main unit (see photo). However, it may be missing.

If “option 2” is implemented, check only the lock. And if there is an additional relay, it is not recommended to install a jumper instead. Marked in the photo:

Additional relay (white arrow);
Main relay (element “6”).

Design features of a penny starter

When the ignition switch is turned on, the starter does not turn. Why does the starter not respond to turning the ignition key? It also happens

The first “kopecks” were equipped with ST-221 launchers. Their design consisted of:

housing, which is also a stator with field windings;
two end caps;
armature (rotor) with commutator and drive;
solenoid relay.

In essence, SST-221 is a classic four-pole electric motor that consumes direct current from a battery. A special feature of this device was a collector with transversely arranged plates. In principle, all electric motors at that time had this design.

Over time, SST-221 replaced the new VAZ-2101 starter, modification 35.3708. By the way, it is still being produced today. Almost all VAZ “classics” were equipped with it. Structurally, it differs from its predecessor only in the presence of an additional winding of the solenoid relay, a longitudinal collector and an improved stator. All other elements remained the same, which made it possible and allows us to easily change the outdated model of the launcher to a new one without any modifications.

Is the problem caused by the alarm?

A blocking relay can be installed in the starter circuit when installing an alarm system. And many alarms need to meet certain conditions in order to remove the blocking. The simplest thing: the on-board voltage must be greater than 11 Volts.

Alarm with blocking relay

Conclusion: the starter may not operate when cold if the battery is discharged and the car has an alarm system. So, we remove the battery, charge it and install it back.

How to charge the battery in a VAZ-2109

If the starter malfunction is due to lack of battery charge, start charging the device. To properly charge the battery, carry out the procedure in a ventilated room. It is not necessary to remove the unit from the car; the process can take place directly in the VAZ-2109. When charging the battery, follow these requirements:

Disconnect all electrical cables.
Immediately before charging, carefully clean the terminals from adhering dirt and dust, paying special attention to oxidized areas.
It is advisable to completely discharge the battery before charging - to do this, turn on all electrically powered devices.
Observe the movements of the ammeter needle; it should approach the zero mark.
Monitor the temperature of the electrolyte - it will increase during charging. For example, the temperature of the electrolyte has increased to 40 degrees, then the current should be halved. If within 2 hours the density of the electrolyte and the battery voltage in the VAZ-2109 remain unchanged, it means that the battery is fully charged.

Final check before replacing the starter

We turn the key to position II, and nothing happens... In this case, open the hood and remove the air filter by unscrewing the screw on the body and loosening the clamp on the pipe. The starter is located under the filter housing. In the photo we see the following: someone disconnected the solenoid relay cord.

What we found under the filter

Using a needle probe, we check that when you turn the key, “+12” appears. Then, after checking, we wrap the cord with electrical tape.

Sometimes voltage seems to be supplied to the starter, but the solenoid relay is activated “every time”. Well, try cleaning the terminal - both in the connector and on the starter itself.

The copper is polished to a shine;
The wire (see photo) is supplied with “plus”;
The starter doesn't even click.

The first thing you need to check is the battery contacts. We remove the terminals (key “10”) and look at what is under them. There is no point in measuring the voltage with a probe - it will show “12 Volts”.

Solenoid relay current – 40 Amperes. The presence of a resistance of 0.1 Ohm results in a voltage drop of 4 Volts. So consider... And the starter motor consumes 200 Amperes during operation.

Where is the starter relay located?

The starter relay is located under the auxiliary fuse box next to the ignition relay. On the VAZ 21214, the starter activation relay is attached to the injection system relay bracket.

What to buy?

2110-3708010, -03, 04 – 9 teeth, 2 holes;

On the right is the BOSCH starter, on the left is PROMO-ISKRA

The choice depends on the type of gearbox. And nothing else.

Chemistry

There is no need to clean copper with WD-40 - after that everything will only get worse. Special equipment needed:

Ammonia;
ASIDOL (Lenbytkhim LLC) - excellent, by the way, also polishes glass;
Molykote S-1002;
Kontakt 60 or 100 (acid) and WL (wash);
CRAMOLIN ContaClean (acid).

CRAMOLIN requires a remover. It's easier to take an eraser and ammonia.

Individual situations

If the VAZ 21099 injector stops starting, you can try to close the contacts of the mechanism in a straight line.

But sometimes there are emergency situations when the device stops functioning, let’s consider a few of them:

The injection engine does not start in cold weather, but all devices work normally, the battery is charged. If there is no click, you should first diagnose the safety components, electrical circuit, and also the solenoid relay. If the device clicks, the relay must be replaced.
The starter turns all day, there is a spark, but in the evening the engine stops starting. Before checking the starter, it is necessary to fully charge the battery, and then clean the contacts on both the battery and the mechanism itself. If these steps did not help solve the problem, you need to check the battery itself more carefully - try closing the contacts with a wire, which may cause a spark to melt. If this does not help, try applying a positive charge from the battery directly to the relay. If there are no changes, the unit will have to be replaced.
If the car was operated normally all day, but after parking for five minutes it stopped starting, you can try to close the mechanism. You need to directly close two bolts on the relay; if this helps, but later the problem reappears, then disassemble the unit completely. Most likely, the problem lies directly in the erasing of the brushes. In this case, they will need to be changed.
The unit does not turn at all, but the car can be started from the pushrod. If the problem is not with the starter, then check the fuse box and ignition switch. But before this, you should check the wiring - the reason may lie in the oxidation of the contacts.

We recommend: How to replace the steering column switch?

Dismantling

There should be no problems with the dismantling process. The main thing here is to remove the starter, since the required relay is held on it. Therefore, dismantling is carried out as an assembly.

Turn on the handbrake, disconnect the battery by removing the negative terminal from it.
A wire with a large cross-section goes from the battery to the contact of the relay. It can be turned off by unscrewing it using a 13 key.
Remove the thin winding power wire from the solenoid relay.
Using the same 13mm wrench, unscrew the three mounting nuts holding the starter to the clutch block.
You can remove the device through the bottom or top. If you chose the top, then you need to slightly rotate the starter around its axis and remove it.
The lower output is more difficult, since here you need to remove the crankcase protection. But if parallel work is carried out that requires similar manipulations, problems will not arise.

General reasons why the VAZ 2109 starter does not turn

There is only one click, and then silence.
You hear several clicks in succession.
There are no clicks or other signs of life.

The power bolts on the retractor relay - they were burnt. Because of this, a voltage of less than the required 12 volts reaches it.
The fork pushing out the Bendix – it could have broken or been somehow deformed. Because of this, the Bendix does not fully reach the flywheel, the cores only partially enter the coil, and the contacts open.
In the Bendix - the teeth on it were worn out. Therefore, there is no voltage from the solenoid relay at the starter.
Armature brushes or bushings - they are worn out.
Winding short circuit.

The battery is dead.
Its terminals - they have become sour or weakened.
Holding winding - it poorly fixes the core, which is retracted by the retracting winding.

Short circuit of the winding - in this case you should smell a burning smell and see smoke.
The ring located in the starter reducer - it has collapsed.
The key is to try to replace it.

Dismantling

There should be no problems with the dismantling process. The main thing here is to remove the starter, since the required relay is held on it. Therefore, dismantling is carried out as an assembly.

Turn on the handbrake, disconnect the battery by removing the negative terminal from it.
A wire with a large cross-section goes from the battery to the contact of the relay. It can be turned off by unscrewing it using a 13 key.
Remove the thin winding power wire from the solenoid relay.
Using the same 13mm wrench, unscrew the three mounting nuts holding the starter to the clutch block.
You can remove the device through the bottom or top. If you chose the top, then you need to slightly rotate the starter around its axis and remove it.
The lower output is more difficult, since here you need to remove the crankcase protection. But if parallel work is carried out that requires similar manipulations, problems will not arise.

Video.

Hello, dear car enthusiasts! All. But, especially car enthusiasts of VAZ models. VAZ starters, despite their reliability, durability and endurance, still fail sooner or later.

The average starter life is usually 5-6 years, which is half the life of the engine. And whether it’s a malfunction of the VAZ 21093, VAZ 2109 or 21099 starter, the problem will still have to be solved by diagnosing, repairing, and possibly even replacing this electrical component.

Since the VAZ starter design differs only slightly, we will take into consideration the situation when the VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not turn.

After turning the key in the ignition, you may find that:

VAZ 2109,21099 starter does not work after a single click;
The VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not work after a whole “trill” of frequent successive clicks;
The starter response to turning the key is completely absent.

What to do if the starter does not work? Of course, look for the cause of this phenomenon and try to eliminate it.

VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not work after one click

Reasons why the VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not turn,

after a single click, there may be several.

Perhaps the power bolts on the . This defect leads to the fact that from the supplied 12V, only about 6-7V reaches the starter.

The fork that pushes out the starter bendix may be bent, broken, or otherwise deformed. In this situation, the bendix does not fully fit the flywheel; the cores only partially enter the coil, preventing the contacts from closing.

The teeth on the Bendix sprocket have worn out. Because of this, the solenoid relay cannot transmit voltage to the starter.

Also, the cause of the phenomenon of “one click” of the starter may be either the order of the armature bushings or a short circuit in the winding.

VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not work after frequent clicks

A crackling noise from the starter in response to turning the key in the lock may indicate the need to check whether the terminals on it are oxidized or loose.

Repeated clicks are repeated due to the fact that the retracting winding retracts the core, and the holding winding cannot hold it and lets go. This can continue until the battery runs out completely.

Why does the engine rotate inefficiently?

There are times when the starter works, but does not turn the engine with the required force. Let's list the situations when this happens:

When using oil that does not correspond to the temperature conditions. The lubricant thickens and prevents the crankshaft from rotating. It is necessary to replace the lubricant with one regulated for the given weather conditions.
Low battery charge. Does not provide energy for effective rotation. The battery needs to be recharged or replaced.
In case of a malfunction of the brush assembly. It is necessary to check the contacts of the brushes and the tightening force of the tips going to the part.

Special cases

Charge the battery.
Clean and compress the contacts on the battery and starter.

check the battery - close the contacts with a wire, a spark should appear that will melt it;
pass the plus from the battery directly to the solenoid relay.

In the morning the starter turned, after 15 minutes I warmed up the car, then started it, but it didn’t move, the starter closed just a spark and silence, what should I do? I installed a new relay

If the devices go out when you start them, then look at the wiring near the battery, if not, then look at the retractor, try to tap it well, if it’s just stuck, then when it helps. And charge the battery well.

VAZ 2110 injector, started it on autostart, worked for 10 minutes and stalled. Now I can’t start, the starter doesn’t turn, can you tell me what’s the reason?

When you start it, the starter only makes a click, but if you connect it directly, it just turns.

Exal everything was normal and suddenly the car stalled, the panel went dark, then after 10 seconds everything turned on again, released the clutch, started. Everything is fine, I arrived, installed it, then started it, turned the key - the starter doesn’t turn, but turns straight.

The car was working normally, I came to put it in the garage, start it, but there was only a click and no movement, there was no current on the positive wire. What reasons could there be?

There may be no mass from the engine to the passenger compartment, the pigtail has broken

The starter stopped turning, everything else works. Start from the pusher, what could happen?

If it turns straight, there may be a problem with the mounting block or ignition switch. Check the voltage on the retractor, although it may be there, but the current strength is not enough to operate the relay.

The starter doesn't turn. You close the bolts - it turns, and starts with half a turn. He doesn’t want to use the key, the relay clicks once and there’s silence. What could be the matter?

Look, this thing is about the retractor :)

VAZ 2109 injector, this is the problem, started it half a turn, drove 30 km and the car stalled, all the devices went out, checked the wires on the generator, on the battery, but it didn’t help , a day later I started it at idle, it works, but when you give it gas it starts to burn! It worked for a little bit and stalled and all the devices went out again, no signs of life, tell me what could be the reason?

I started the car (2109i), drove for 1-2 km, and heard the sound of a tick-tick-tick. etc. almost at the same frequency, the revs were all right, after 500m I stopped, opened the hood (I didn’t turn off the car), there was a sound, then I turned off the car, tried to start it - no noise Lo, one click, the instrument panel lights up, no trills from the starter side, one click and silence, the towbar did not start (it was in 3rd gear, released the clutch - silence). The battery is normal, I cleaned the terminals, nothing, changed the battery - nothing. The idle speed sensor began to crackle every time I turned the key. I connected the starter directly to the battery - silence, changed the ignition relay - silence. The car has an immobilizer installed - it works now differently than before - When you turn the key so that the dashboard lights up, it should flash - it requires a key - now it just doesn’t flash, you take it out the key or in the “off” position the immobilizer diode lights up steadily. I blame him for now, maybe he blocked everything for me. There are no other explanations yet.

Why is it needed, its price, how much will the auto service charge for replacement, what malfunctions can arise, what the danger is, how to fix it, etc.

The door on the six closes with noise, and for this you need to make an effort? This article will tell you how you can get rid of the problem. This article talks about silent locks on the BAZ 2106. You will find out how much they cost and how to install them.

Where is it located (depending on the year of manufacture); when should it be changed and how to do it? And also get advice that will protect you from making a serious mistake.

Alarm Signals

The starter is the highest-loaded electrical consumer in a car. If, when starting the car, an extraneous sound, noise, or crackling appears, or it becomes clear that there have been changes in the operation of the starter, action must be taken without delay. On a VAZ 2109, problems with the starter can be different, some of them can be fixed with your own hands by reading how to do it or watching a video. Here is a small instruction on faults.

Malfunctions

So:

If the starter on a VAZ 2109 does not start, first you need to do a basic check
Check the fuse in the fuse box for the starter.
Check the relay responsible for the starter, it is located in the engine compartment (photo 2).

If, however, the starter does not work on the VAZ 2109 and the problem is different, you need to contact a specialist.

On VAZ 2109 the starter barely turns
won't they overtighten?

On a VAZ 2109, the starter sticks (by turning the key to the “engine start” mode, the starter is activated for 1-2 seconds, which is not enough to start the engine and stops)
The armature bushings may need to be replaced.
On a VAZ 2109 the starter sticks, in other words on a VAZ 2109 the starter does not turn off (releasing the key after starting the engine, the starter continues to work)
It is possible that the contacts (nickels) of the starter solenoid relay are sticking.
Or there is a malfunction in the contact group of the ignition switch - the contacts have fused.
On a VAZ 2109, the starter does not turn in the cold (the starter turns a little, but with a lot of tension, or does not turn at all)
Another option involves heating the battery in a warm room (do not make the temperature difference too large, for example, placing it in hot water)
You can also start the car by throwing power from another car
If the previous options did not help, the battery needs to be replaced.
On a VAZ 2109, the starter does not turn, the relay clicks (when you hold the key in the “engine start” mode, the relay automatically turns on and off)

This happens because there is enough battery charge to work. When the contacts close, the starter consumes a lot of current, but this current is not enough for it to work. The voltage on the battery drops and the solenoid relay returns to its original position. There is no more load, again there is enough current for the retractor to work. The actions are repeated. So:

On a VAZ 2109, the starter does not turn on (the retractor relay turned on, but the starter did not turn on) The starter brushes are worn out (photo 3)
The starter may have burned out
starter jammed

On VAZ 2109 the starter is cracking
The bendix (the mechanism that engages with the flywheel) is worn out.

Solutions

So:

We select a suitable tap, screw it into the bushing and pull it out.
Or cut the bushing with a sharp object (screwdriver, small chisel, etc.)

At first glance there is a lot, but nothing is impossible. What is made by human hands can definitely be repaired, and with the necessary knowledge and skills, this can be done much faster and with better quality. Good repair.

If the VAZ 2109 starter does not turn, the driver must immediately diagnose it and also carry out the required repairs, since malfunctions of this mechanism of the automobile starting system can lead to dire consequences.