Why does the VAZ 2109 (Carburetor) not start when hot?

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Carburetor versions of the VAZ 2109 are quite common today. At the same time, situations often arise when the engine cannot be started at all, or it does not start well when hot.

Solving such a problem is unlikely to take a few minutes. Therefore, first of all, prepare yourself mentally, get ready for long-term work with your carburetor.

Nine engine

Diagnostics of contactless ignition system

In recent years, cars have been equipped with a contactless system. Checking this system does not require any special tools. Everything can be purchased at your nearest auto supply store.

It is more rational to carry out diagnostics of the MD-1 sensor. It is connected to the place of the switch. Next, turn on the ignition.

Working with the sensor is very simple. It has three indicators:

1. “P” – indicates the proper functioning of the ignition switch;
2. “K” – shows the state of the primary winding;
3. “D” – shows the proper operation of the hall sensors when the starter is turned on.

If all indicators work, then there are no malfunctions.

Carburetor car engine starts and stalls

Symptoms of a problem

There is no fuel in the float chamber

Pump it up using the manual pump lever on the fuel pump.

The fuel pump or power system may be faulty. Remove the hose from the carburetor fuel supply fitting and press the manual primer lever on the fuel pump several times. A strong pulsating stream of gasoline should come out of the hose hole. If it is missing or weak, check the fuel pump or power system.

The strainer at the carburetor inlet is clogged

Remove it by unscrewing the cap, clean it (you can use a toothbrush), rinse with acetone or gasoline and blow with compressed air. At the same time, clean the filter seat in the carburetor cover.

The solenoid valve is faulty or the fuel jet of the idle system is clogged

Check whether the solenoid valve or the idle air system fuel nozzle holder has become loose due to any circumstances. Turn it on. Remove the wire from the valve and then put it back on. You should hear the click of the valve being activated. If it is not there, we connect a piece of wire plus the battery and the valve outlet. There is no click - we change the valve. There is a click - we check the EPH system.

Check the serviceability of the valve itself by unscrewing it from the carburetor and removing the fuel jet from it. The jet should be carefully inspected for contamination and deformation. We also check the ease of movement of the valve shut-off needle, the presence and integrity of the rubber O-ring on the valve body.

Unscrew the idle air system fuel nozzle holder (on carburetors with a holder instead of a solenoid valve), rinse, clean the fuel nozzle and blow with compressed air.

“Suction” of foreign air into the carburetor

In this case, the fuel mixture is lean. If the engine starts and immediately stalls, it is most likely very lean. The image shows probable places where foreign air is “sucked in” on the 2108 Solex carburetor.

Read more about the “suction” of foreign air in the article “Suction of foreign air into the carburetor.”

Disassemble the starter housing and replace the diaphragm with a new one. Adjust the starting device.

It is necessary to remove the carburetor cover, unscrew the jets, remove the tubes, rinse and clean them, clean the wells, blow everything out with compressed air and put it back. The image shows what should be cleaned on the carburetor 2105, 2107 Ozone.

On the Solex carburetor, unscrew the air jets and take them out along with the emulsion tubes. At the bottom of the opened wells there are fuel jets. We turn them out with a thin long slotted screwdriver. Clean, rinse with acetone and blow with compressed air.

Fuel and air jets and idle system channels are clogged

Unscrew the jets, rinse and clean them, and blow them with compressed air.

You can try to clean the idle system without disassembling the carburetor. Here is an article on this topic “Cleaning the idle system of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex.”

The fuel level in the carburetor float chamber is broken

The fuel mixture is either very lean or very rich due to incorrect adjustment.

Articles on the site about adjusting the fuel level:

The carburetor air damper drive is not adjusted (“choke”)

A not fully open air damper causes the fuel mixture to become richer in some cases to such an extent that it is difficult to start the engine, especially when it is hot. The spark plugs may become flooded with fuel. Adjust the drive:

With the choke handle fully extended, the air damper should completely cover the cross-section of the first chamber of the carburetor.

With the handle fully recessed, the air damper should be strictly vertical.

Notes and additions

— Before searching for the reasons that a carburetor engine starts and stalls, it is recommended to check the serviceability of the ignition system, since the symptoms of its malfunction are similar to the symptoms of a malfunction of the ignition system and the presence of fuel supply through the power system.

TWOKARBURATORS VK -More information on this topic in our VKontakte group TWOKARBURATORS DZ -and in Yandex Zen

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What to do if the VAZ 21099 carburetor does not start?

Let’s just say that the problem applies not only to the “99”, but to all VAZs with a carburetor, since the reasons are the same. Despite the fact that injectors and diesel engines already predominate on the highways, a percentage of the old stuff still remains, and sooner or later they have to be repaired.

In fact, there can be a lot of reasons why the engine does not start, and sometimes even the most experienced driver or mechanic will not immediately be able to identify the source of the disease.

What can we say about inexperienced and young drivers who, at the first breakdown, get lost and don’t know where to go to fix the breakdown. Let’s take a closer look at how to quickly and efficiently repair a car in the article below.

Basic malfunctions and step-by-step troubleshooting algorithm
The VAZ 21099 carburetor does not start, which means you should look for a breakdown in one of the components described below:

• There is no voltage from the battery to the starter;
• , it should light green.
• If it is black or red, it means the charge is very low. 20-25 minutes are enough to start the engine;
• The degree of wear of the graphite rod on the distributor of the trampler has exceeded the permissible standards, as a result of which current does not flow to the first cylinder and the mixture cannot ignite;
• We unscrew the cover of the distributor and look at the rod, it is centered inside. The minimum length should be 1.0 cm or more, if less, replace the tamper cover. Due to the fact that the graphite rod does not reach the distributor, the current is not transmitted to the spark plugs and, accordingly, there is no ignition.
• The throttle valve is closed and air does not enter the working chambers of the carburetor;
• Check the tension of the choke cable. The air damper rod must be strictly vertical; all other positions may overlap it and become a barrier to air. Press out the bolt and straighten the rod.
• The fine filter of the fuel system
  is very dirty and does not allow gasoline to pass into the combustion chamber in the required quantity;
• Look at the filter color. If it is a rough orange color, it needs to be changed because it is clogged. The optimal color is light yellow.
• The coil on the ignition coil is damaged, causing the spark plugs to not receive the spark that is the source of ignition. See article "";
• Proceed as follows:
  disconnect the positive cable on the battery, unscrew the top part of the ceramic block on the coil and you will see a metal spiral. If there is damage, the entire ceramic module must be replaced. There are no other options. It is strictly forbidden to use soldering, it will not help.
• The fuel and/or air jets are clogged and cannot transfer the mixture to the combustion chamber;
• You can only check by unscrewing the air filter cover and removing it along with the top carburetor cover. After unscrewing both types of jets, blow them with a stream of compressed air and screw them back in. There is no need to change.
• The line of the electrical cable that transmits current through the circuit is damaged;
• If you are not an electrician, then it will be difficult for you to determine which wire is damaged. Try only with the tester, starting from the ignition switch;
• There is no gasoline in the gas tank ();
• The diaphragm in the fuel pump does not work or is damaged (see.

Help with advice! The car is stored in a garage. In the morning you come to start the car (I pull out the choke and start it from the starter - the starter runs smoothly) - it won’t start. I remove the high-voltage wire from the distributor, connect the spark plug and connect it to ground, turn the ignition on to the starter - there is no spark. I asked a friend to start the car by towing, literally two or three meters the car starts and continues to start throughout the day. In the evening I park the car in the garage. In the morning again it won’t start. I change the ignition coil, switch, spark plugs. I clean the carburetor at the station, check the ignition switch, ignition relay - everything is in order. I'm charging the battery. In the morning it won't start again. Then I noticed that the engine seizes a little when you turn off the ignition, but that's where it ends. If you tow the car for a meter or two, it starts and runs perfectly all day long. But in the morning -... Help! Thanks in advance!

Re: VAZ-21099 won’t start

When you turn off the ignition, the starter turns off (at this time the engine is still spinning) and the voltage on the battery increases (when the starter turns on, it drops, especially when cold) and the ignition system has enough voltage and the engine seizes. What is the reason 1. Poor contact of ground or + at the starter. 2. The starter is drawing too much current due to its malfunction. 3. Bad ground or + on the commutator or coil. 4. faulty switch, coil. Fill out your profile!! Good luck on our routes!

2001-11-02 17:24

I'll add...

It is still possible that the switch is of low quality. There are a lot of them of poor quality! And it is advisable to check the resistance of the explosive wires if the silicone is of low quality with a resistance of up to 100Kohm and higher! And I join the rest of the advice! She's such a villager!

2001-11-02 20:55

Re: VAZ-21099 won’t start

There was just such a bug on the Toyota Corona! Cured by replacing the hall sensor. Good luck. Good traffic police officers to all.

2001-11-02 17:35

Re: VAZ-21099 won’t start

What if the lamp is turned on during startup? Will its lamp lose a lot of brightness? If it’s a lot, it means the battery still doesn’t hold up, or there’s a problem with the starter, such as a short circuit, and the sagging voltage is not enough for the ignition to work. — Anton, VAZ 21099 carb

2001-11-02 18:02

Crack in the distributor cover (-)

2001-11-02 18:16

Re: VAZ-21099 won’t start

Recently a friend had the same trick. Changed: switch, coil, Hall sensor, slider, BB wires - one x»%??; It didn’t start, but then it started with a push with half a kick. In general, they fucked up the whole next day - no emotions, and then - which is strange even for me - they changed the CN. And everything is fine again! So we don’t know how to make cars! All the best!

2001-11-03 21:25

Re: VAZ-21099 won’t start

Is everything okay with your battery? Did you try installing it from another car and it started, or did you throw wires from someone else’s car? I recently refused to start after a long period of parking (overnight in the garage), but when it was hot everything was OK. So I started with the battery and it turned out that it was moping, the starter was spinning, but the engine was not catching, all the electrical equipment was working fine, the voltage at the terminals was normal. With the new battery I forgot about the problem. Try it, maybe this is the reason for you too. Good luck, Maxim

Your technical equipment must be impeccable - after all, the time you have is the same money that, we hope, you also have. Don't lose either one or the other. If a missing tie out of nowhere or a pant leg burnt by an iron can cause a business meeting to be disrupted, what can we say about a car that doesn’t want to start an hour before the scheduled negotiations.

Early in the morning, freshly shaved and full of great plans (child – to school, wife – to the hairdresser, and yourself – to forge a penny), you jump into the car, “key to start” and... What the hell... One more time. Also... Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is ruined from the very beginning. Plans and mood are down the drain.

Calm down. There is no need to rush under the hood in an English suit and, smearing the oily dirt with a tie, try to make a diagnosis. You probably won't be able to cure it in 5 minutes. Take another car, and leave the treatment of your sick friend until the evening. And it’s better to entrust it to doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have an expensive car and you are not a specialist. It will be cheaper this way. Well, if your friend is well known to you and you consider yourself a healer, well, try it yourself, if you’re not too lazy to get dirty or there’s no other way out.

The diagnosis must be made calmly

Mentally examine the symptoms. First, does the starter turn? And if so, how cheerful? You already know the answer - remember what happened the first time you tried to start the car. If you don't remember, try again.

If the starter does not turn at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice given above: “Take another car ...”), or there is a problem with the battery - it has turned off or died. Only in rare models can the starter power circuit be protected by a fuse - about 300 amperes - it is not difficult to find, especially if you know in advance where it is located. If the battery is to blame, then, as a rule, all electrical equipment does not work. The simplest and easiest case is that one of the terminals has come off or is dirty, but the battery is fine. Tighten the terminals on it and on the starter (if equipped). If it turns out that the battery is completely dead (forgot to turn off the headlights at night), you can still leave. But with outside help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start from a push, from a hill or from a tow. Don’t try to get around the pitfalls: a car with an automatic transmission or electronic fuel injection (if it has an electric fuel pump) will not be able to start using these methods. I'll have to light a cigarette at my neighbor's. However, for some machines this can lead to damage to the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If the starter turns on, but is sluggish (this happens in the summer, in winter this is a subject for a separate discussion), most likely the battery is almost completely discharged. This will be visible by weak headlights or weak signal. In this case, the above options for outside assistance come into play.

If the starter turns briskly, but the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, feel free to exclude everything related to the battery from further considerations. Blame the ignition or fuel supply system, you can’t go wrong. When diagnosing and treating each of them, a systematic approach is required. It’s better to start with the ignition - problems occur there more often. Especially in wet weather.

A spark will ignite...

So, we need to look for a spark. Your car may be equipped with a classic (simple) contact ignition system, a rather complex electronic contactless one, or some combination. In any case, the system consists of three parts. Part one is low-voltage (breaker contacts in a classic system or a special sensor in an electronic one, plus a box with electronic filling that forms a spark). Part two is a step-up transformer, called an ignition coil in the world. Part three is high voltage (mechanical or electronic distributor and wires through which high voltage current is supplied to the spark plugs). And of course, the candles themselves. The inspection of this entire enterprise must be carried out in stages and it is better to start from the end.

Stage one

. High voltage part of the system. Check to see if there is a spark on the center wire - this is the one that connects the coil to the distributor. The tip of the wire must be removed from the distributor cap, brought closer to any part that has good contact with the body of the car (it doesn’t matter whether it is painted or not), and secured so that there is a gap of 5–7 mm between the tip and the selected part.

If your car has an electronic ignition, the wire must be fastened especially securely - if it falls on ground, the electronics will instantly die. For the same reason, you should not scratch the wire across the body. We also do not recommend holding it with your hand, not even with your own - it will give you a serious electric shock.

Stage two.

Crank the engine with the starter. At the same time, watch what happens at the tip of the wire. There are two options. More favorable - there is a spark. Powerful, accompanied by a loud click. This significantly narrows the field of further searches.

The first step is to remove the distributor cap. It may be damp and dirty underneath. Along such a “conductor” the spark readily jumps anywhere, just not where it needs to be. Wipe, clean and dry. At the same time, it is not harmful to clean the distributor contacts, for example, with fine sandpaper. Inspect the so-called “runner”. If you find a dark trace of electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cap, the part will have to be replaced.

Carefully check the wires going from the distributor to the spark plugs. Wires and their tips must be dry and clean. If, in your opinion, everything is in order with them, you can put the cover back in place, restore the connections and try to start the engine. If the malfunction was hidden under the cover, the engine will start or, in the worst case, at least start sneezing. The symptom is also favorable - you are on the right track. True, you will have to turn out, clean and dry the spark plugs - in an attempt to start the engine, you filled them with gasoline. If the engine does not even sneeze, the spark plugs will still have to be turned out, cleaned and checked. It's easier if you have a spare set.

If you have already reached the stage of turning out the spark plugs, you can quite effectively (and impressively) check the entire ignition system as a whole. Having connected high-voltage wires to the turned-out candles, collect the candles in a bunch, like carrots, and wrap the bare soft wire directly along their threaded part. Make sure the wire makes contact with each spark plug but does not touch the center electrodes. Connect the free end of the wire to ground. Having placed the bunch of candles in a place convenient for observation from the passenger compartment, turn the engine with the starter. In this case, cheerful sparks should jump between the electrodes of the spark plugs in turn (in accordance with the order of operation of the cylinders). If so, then the entire ignition system is fine. The sound of the engine will be very unusual - do not be alarmed, because it is spinning with the spark plugs turned out. Don't twist for too long. It’s worse if at the second stage of testing there is another option: there is no spark between the central wire and the “housing”. This means that the problem is not in high-voltage circuits. Further searches will be more difficult, evaluate your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage. Check if voltage is supplied to the ignition coil. This is easy to do with a tester, and if you don’t have one, you can use an under-hood light bulb. True, you will need a couple of wires to connect it to the coil. In a classic ignition system, you need to connect a light bulb between ground and the input of the primary winding.

At the third stage,

as usual, two options are also possible: voltage is either supplied to the coil or not. If it is supplied, the coil is to blame - a breakdown or short circuit, which, however, happens extremely rarely. The coil will have to be changed. More often there is poor contact in the attachment of the wires to the coil. Or the same wet mud, through which the spark flows to an unknown destination. Sometimes the coil is polished to a shine, but underneath there remains an invisible, very narrow strip of dirt - a good conductor.

If at the third stage you are convinced that voltage is not supplied to the coil, the electronics or contacts and unreliable connections in the low-voltage part of the ignition system are to blame. You can’t handle electronics (the switch and, less often, the sensor in the distributor housing) - you need special equipment to diagnose them. You can only tug on the sensor connector on the distributor body - maybe it will help. If you have a car with a classic contact ignition system, you can look further.

Remove the cover from the distributor and inspect the contacts of the breaker - they may oxidize, especially if the car has been standing still for some time. The contacts must be carefully cleaned with fine sandpaper or a special needle file.

Twitch the cleaned contacts so that they either close or open. The voltage on them is only 12 volts, so you can pull without fear. If cleaning does not help and voltage is still not supplied to the coil, we once again advise you to stop trying to resuscitate the car for a while, since further difficulties will begin.

If voltage appears (the light blinks when the contacts are pulled), restore everything that was loosened and disassembled, start the car and, perhaps, it will still have time to go about its business. If it doesn’t start, but is at least sneezing, turn out the spark plugs and... (see above). Don't press to the floor - it won't help

It may also happen that the entire ignition system has been checked, everything is fine, but the engine, even if you crack it, still won’t start. This means that there are problems with another of the previously mentioned systems - the power supply system, i.e. e. supplying fuel to the engine.

If you have a car with fuel injection (injection supply system), do not touch it (the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it was she who broke: there is a spark, the fuel is suitable - that means it’s her, my dear. Treatment only in a hospital. At home and among artisans, repairing it is useless and even harmful.

In a conventional carburetor engine, the fuel system is simpler - a tank, a fuel pump, a set of pipelines and a carburetor. Here you can dig deeper yourself. The first step is to make sure that gasoline is entering the carburetor. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and press the manual fuel pump lever. If a fairly powerful stream of gasoline starts flowing, everything is fine, it’s time to move on to the carburetor. It happens that gasoline is supplied to the carburetor regularly, but for some reason it does not flow into it. If you have the time and desire, remove the air filter, then ask someone to press the accelerator pedal sharply. Or you can sharply pull the throttle cable yourself. At the same time, look into the carburetor from above (the air damper is open, otherwise you won’t see anything): if a trickle of gasoline does not appear in the first diffuser, it means that there is no gasoline in the float chamber. It is not there because the valve needle is stuck or (this happens not very often) the fuel filter in the carburetor is completely clogged - it is located in front of the float chamber. Or the jets are clogged. The filter is cleaned by blowing, however, if you do not have the necessary skills, it is better not to mess with the carburetor internals at all, deal with a stuck needle valve, clogged jets and other subtleties - let the specialists do this.

If there is a stream in the diffuser, pay attention to the carburetor starting device - it quite often fails. On foreign cars, starting around the 70s, automatic air damper control is used. The device, without your participation, depending on the engine temperature, closes or opens the damper as needed, enriching the mixture when starting the engine. If this automation works, you can try manual manipulation of the air damper, but there are a lot of options and there are no universal tips. Before starting any manipulations, connect and secure the previously disconnected fuel hose. You don't have to install the air filter yet. If it starts, let the engine warm up and God bless you (after returning the air filter to its place).. If, when checking the fuel supply with a fuel pump, it turns out that gasoline does not come out of the hose or the stream is very thin, the cause must be sought in clogged pipelines, a fine fuel filter or the gas tank itself - you can easily demonstrate your skill by pumping the gas line with a tire pump in the direction opposite to the movement of gasoline, i.e. e. from the carburetor to the tank. Booming, gurgling sounds should be heard in the tank.

With a fine fuel filter everything is simple. Although on almost all modern models it is made in a transparent case, the degree of its contamination cannot be visually determined. A dirty filter will allow the engine to start, but will not allow it to drive normally. If it's completely clogged, you won't be able to start the engine. The most effective check: remove the filter and, if you don’t have a new one, temporarily replace it with a suitable tube, for example, the housing of a ballpoint pen, preferably transparent - you can see how gasoline flows. Do not try to clean the filter - the sealed (or sealed) housing cannot be disassembled.

If you come to the conclusion that your car’s fuel pump is not working and you don’t have a spare one at hand – “Take another car...”.

We left a rare, but most unpleasant diagnosis for last. If the starter is working normally, you have already spent a lot of time and made sure that the ignition and power are in perfect order, but the car, nevertheless, does not start - it is worth inspecting the camshaft drive belt. However, decide for yourself, this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine has already passed more than 60 thousand. The difficulty is that you will have to remove or at least partially bend the upper part of the plastic casing covering the belt. Perhaps the teeth of the belt were cut off - belts, like people, lose teeth from old age. In this case, the camshaft does not rotate and the engine will not work. It is clear that a toothless belt requires replacement (those who have a car with a chain camshaft drive do not face this problem). The procedure for replacing the belt is not complicated, but it is troublesome. Carried out in a hospital. It’s good if everything is limited to replacing only the belt, and not bent valves or the entire cylinder head - this also happens.

Fewer parasites

It is worth saying a few words about the battery. Since it is maintenance-free on most modern cars, there is no point in providing operating instructions here. We will give just a few additional tips on how to keep your battery viable longer. Don't get carried away with stuffing your car with additional energy consumers. The fact that a certain reserve is provided in the energy balance of the car, allowing two or three “freeloaders” to connect, does not mean that you can hang six horns and ten fog lights on the car - have a sense of proportion. In addition, if you connect unintended connections yourself, there is a high probability of damage to the insulation. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified, surgical intervention in the electrical wiring of a car sooner or later makes itself felt. Troubles.

If your battery is dying, try not to rev the engine during numerous stops in the city. Nothing abuses the battery more than frequent use of the starter.

And lastly (this applies not only to the battery, but to all electrical equipment in general). Remember: all terminals, contacts, wire tips must be dry and clean and fit well to their “destination points”. Dirty, oily insulation breaks through sooner or later, and burning and oxidation of any contact surface can serve as the only (and sufficient) reason for the failure of the ignition system. Or a fire.

We can stop here. Meticulous car enthusiasts have undoubtedly noticed some of the superficiality of our advice. We admit that we deliberately do not want to go deeper into the jungle. Not to provoke you into self-medication - it does not lead to good. Understanding the nature of pain in the lower abdomen on the right does not mean that you yourself should remove your appendix. But you must accurately describe the symptoms of appendicitis to your doctor. Helps the treatment a lot.

Hot carburetor engine does not start

Symptoms of a problem

A warm (“hot”) engine does not start. The starter rotates the crankshaft, but there is no spark in the cylinders.

— The warmed-up engine starts, makes several flashes and stalls.

There may be problems with the fuel supply to the carburetor

We check the fuel supply system (before entering the carburetor) by removing the hose from the fuel supply fitting on the carburetor and pressing the pump lever on the fuel pump several times. A strong, pulsating stream of fuel should come out of the hose opening. If the stream is weak or not at all, then the fuel pump or some other element of the power system may be faulty. As a result, the fuel supply is insufficient or stops altogether.

The strainer at the carburetor inlet is clogged

We take out the mesh filter by unscrewing its plug, rinse it, clean it with a brush (you can use a toothbrush), blow it out and put it back. At the same time, we clean the seat under the filter in the carburetor cover.

The solenoid valve is faulty or the fuel jet of the idle system is clogged

Either the valve itself or the EPH system failed.

With the engine off, turn on the ignition and try removing and installing the wire end from the valve outlet. A click should be heard. If it is not there, we connect a piece of wire plus the battery and the valve outlet. There is no click - we change the valve. A click appears - we are checking the EPH system. In addition, it is worth checking the presence and integrity of the rubber O-ring on the valve.

— On carburetors with an idle fuel jet holder, unscrew the holder and remove the jet from it. Clean, rinse and blow with compressed air. We put it back.

“Suction” of foreign air into the carburetor

Inspect the tubes and hoses leading to the carburetor. Perhaps they have come off the fittings or are damaged. As an example, carburetor 2108-1107010 and hoses leading to it.

This situation is discussed in more detail on the page “Suction of foreign air into the carburetor.”

The fuel or air jets of the main carburetor metering system are clogged

In this case, the fuel mixture will be lean. On 2105-07 carburetors, it is necessary to remove the carburetor cover, unscrew the fuel nozzle of the first chamber, and clean it with a thin wooden stick or copper wire. Then blow it out with compressed air and screw it back in. At the same time, it is worth cleaning the remaining elements of the main carburetor metering systems (shown in the photo). On carburetors 2108-21083, we also remove the cover and unscrew the air jet of the first chamber. We take out the jet along with the emulsion tube. Using a slotted screwdriver, unscrew the fuel nozzle located at the bottom of the emulsion well. We wash, clean, blow through it and at the same time the emulsion tube and the emulsion well.

Carburetor needle valve not sealing

The carburetor overflows, the spark plugs are wet after starting. Replace the worn unit, as even the slightest fuel leak can lead to serious problems. Visually, there may be streaks of gasoline on the carburetor and a persistent smell. Remove the carburetor cover and check whether the float bracket is stuck on its axis, whether the float is touching the walls of the float chamber, or whether the needle valve body is loose. You can try to start the engine if, when starting, you turn it for a long time with the starter while pressing the gas pedal all the way. In this case, due to increased ventilation of the combustion chambers, the spark plugs will dry out and the fuel mixture will normalize.

To begin with, you can check the tightness of the needle valve of the float chamber:

In this case, the mixture again becomes overrich due to an increase in the fuel level in the float chamber.

Notes and additions

— Before searching for the reasons that a hot carburetor engine does not start, it is recommended to check the serviceability of the ignition system, since the symptoms of its malfunction are similar to the symptoms of a malfunction of the ignition system.

TWOKARBURATORS VK -More information on this topic in our VKontakte group TWOKARBURATORS DZ -and in Yandex Zen

Source

How to fix starter malfunctions with your own hands

The electrical component of the starter consists of the following structural elements:

• winding;
• brush assembly;
• solenoid relay.

When checking the solenoid relay, skip the starter operation, bypassing its switching. The relay has 3 terminals at once, one of which is the control terminal. The remaining 2 large terminals, located at the input to the battery and at the output of the starter, are closed using a screwdriver or wrench. Closing for a short period of time is enough, the main thing is that the tool you are using does not touch the metal body directly under the hood.

Observe the changes in the starter during the process of closing the terminals - if the device rotates, perhaps with a clearly audible crackling sound, then the fault is caused by the solenoid relay.

Remember that starting the engine in this way is prohibited, because the main gear of the device does not engage.

Most likely, the contact planes on the inner plane simply burned out, and therefore a dielectric layer of metal oxides formed on top. To burn the contacts, there is no need to make great efforts; just one start of the VAZ-2109 engine is enough.

There are 2 ways to repair the VAZ-2109 solenoid relay:

1. Dismantle the device and disassemble it into components, clean the contacts.
2. If it is financially possible, it is better to replace the relay completely. Practice shows that if a relay fails, the contacts will have to be cleaned more and more often to restore its operation. If you want the repaired relay to last a long time, give preference to this option for repairing the starter if the device does not spin or click.

Battery diagnostics

If the car is parked for a long time, the battery loses charge and loses voltage. The voltage sags so that ignition simply does not occur. You can diagnose the battery using a multimeter.

To do this you need:

1. Open the hood;
2. Set the multimeter mode to measure voltage up to 20 V;
3. Touch the multimeter probes to the battery contacts.

The voltage should be 12.6 V. If the output voltage is less than this value, then this indicates a problem with the battery. A desirable action would be to check the density of the electrolyte. It is worth checking absolutely all contacts. First of all, you need to check them with a multimeter on the starter.

In an urgent case, when the VAZ 2109 needs to be started and started immediately, you need to turn on the headlights, thereby increasing the voltage on the battery. This activates the battery electrolyte.

In the case when the VAZ 2109 does not start on the injector, even with a charged battery. The reason may be in its terminals. It is worth checking for oxidation on them. This is why the VAZ 2109 does not start on the injector. A white coating forms on the terminals; it needs to be cleaned off with sandpaper.

Why a cold VAZ-2109 won’t start and what to do

During frosts, many drivers are faced with the impossibility of operating a VAZ-2109 car. Starting the engine in warm and cold seasons has its own characteristics. Short of a complete engine failure, minor changes occur at low temperatures. At the same time, there are two types of engines - injection and carburetor - the properties of which are different. The reasons for the difficulty of starting a particular engine can be found out, but you need to understand their properties.

There are injection and carburetor engines. Which one works better in the cold season? Of course, injection. Older car models have a carburetor, while newer models have long used an injector. Nevertheless, the performance of the carburetor makes it possible not to replace it with an injector.

• open the hood and pump fuel into the carburetor at the gas pump;

• try turning on the high beam headlights for a few seconds;

• depress the clutch a couple of times;

• then press the gas pedal and wait about 15 seconds;

• pull out the choke handle.

If the carburetor starts to stall at idle

This situation often occurs in carburetor VAZ-2109 cars. You can do the following with your own hands:

• needle replacement;
• cleaning the jets in the solenoid valve;
• replacing the idle speed sensor if a fault is detected in it;
• Sometimes the needle valve gets stuck. There is a popular effective method. If the carburetor does not want to start when hot, a spring is put on the valve;
• The solenoid valve control unit and wiring are checked. And then the car will start.

If you turn to an experienced carburetor for advice, he, based on his practice, will definitely tell you that by carefully inspecting the car’s components and replacing worn and damaged carburetor elements, their previous functionality will return. And then the car will start without problems - whether hot or cold.

There is a special offer on our website. You can get a free consultation with our corporate lawyer by simply submitting your question in the form below.

If the carburetor starts to stall at idle

This situation often occurs in carburetor VAZ-2109 cars. You can do the following with your own hands:

• needle replacement;
• cleaning the jets in the solenoid valve;
• replacing the idle speed sensor if a fault is detected in it;
• Sometimes the needle valve gets stuck. There is a popular effective method. If the carburetor does not want to start when hot, a spring is put on the valve;
• The solenoid valve control unit and wiring are checked. And then the car will start.

If you turn to an experienced carburetor for advice, he, based on his practice, will definitely tell you that by carefully inspecting the car’s components and replacing worn and damaged carburetor elements, their previous functionality will return. And then the car will start without problems - whether hot or cold.

There is a special offer on our website. You can get a free consultation with our corporate lawyer by simply submitting your question in the form below.

Source

VAZ 2109 Carburetor Starts Poorly When Cold

Why is it difficult to start a cool VAZ-2109 and what to do

Often, owners of VAZ "Nines" are faced with a problem when the car has difficulty starting when cold. It’s worth warning right away that you will like several circumstances here. Therefore, it is better to start the search with the most common, gradually moving on to the more complex.

Possible reasons why a VAZ-2109 car is difficult to start when cold

It should be noted right away that when performing a search, you should definitely take into account what kind of engine you have. These will be general prerequisites, but the search method for an injection engine (16 valves) will be slightly different from a carburetor. The first option, as we know, was placed on the “nine” of later issues. The majority of cars in this family were equipped with carburetor engines (8 valves).

As written earlier, it is impossible to give a clear answer to the question why the car does not start well when it is cold. In summary, the main prerequisites here are the following:

• weak battery charge;
• broken valve clearances;
• poor condition of the ignition coil, high-voltage wires, spark plugs;
• contamination of the throttle valve or the fuel filter;
• air leaking past the carburetor;
• Idle air valve clogged.

It is also necessary to emphasize that if you have an LPG, then the car must be started on gasoline, not on gas. We also cannot exclude a problem with the fuel pump service. A more obvious reason is a dead battery.

You can check this without much expense - turn on the headlights and see how brightly they shine. In general, the sound of a rotating starter will indicate the problem for you. The last time, it may not spin at all.

This means that the battery is very deeply discharged.

Cold START. Repair and ADJUSTMENT of the Starting Device!

Cold

Starting the Car. one of the problems of car owners is zomoy. And now Nail has his first client.

Now it is necessary to consider the usual difficulties for a carburetor engine. One of them is the lack of fuel in the float chamber. Accordingly, it should be pumped up using the lever on the gas pump.

Also try to knock on the carburetor; it is possible that the needle valve needle is stuck in the upper position when the fuel supply is closed. Check the spark plugs - if they are wet, the fuel mixture is too rich. The problem is solved by adjusting the carburetor.

When, you will like the reason such as a very lean mixture more. Then it will also be necessary to adjust the carburetor. There is an option to check high-voltage wires during the dark hours of the day. To do this, start the car, turn off the headlights and look under the hood.

Important

If there is a problem, of course, you will see it right away. A test option is to borrow a working set from someone in advance.

Quite often there are problems such as a clogged fuel jet allowing accounting (software) of idle speed or a malfunction of the electric valve. It is also recommended to look at what remains to be done for our client - the hoses and tubes leading to the carburetor. It is possible that the problem is caused by the leakage of foreign air.

It also makes no sense to discount the starter itself. Often its wear and tear becomes a prerequisite for the fact that you are unable to start the engine normally when it is cool. In general, if such problems are not observed during a hot meal, it means that our client remains in order with this unit.

Additionally, there are conditions in the distributor, switch, ignition coil or other incorrect ignition settings.

In “nines” with an injection engine, pay special attention to the sensors. Often, incorrect operation of the textbook among them results in problems when starting up in a cold state.

When, the quality of the fuel also plays an important role. Therefore, it is better not to refuel at incomprehensible gas stations - the savings will be pitiful, while the risk of problems occurring here is very high.

At the same time, eliminating these defects can cost you a lot of money.

There is a special offer on our website. You can get a free consultation with our corporate lawyer by simply asking your own question in the form below.

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The simplest malfunctions and methods for eliminating them

First of all, of course, it’s worth talking about the security system. The fact is that when arming, the engine is blocked. And until the alarm is turned off, the engine cannot be started. It is possible that the starter will spin, but there will be no spark to the spark plugs. Immediately pay attention to the LED indicator, which shows the operation of the alarm.

There are often cases when motorists install secret buttons themselves. When buying a car, be sure to ask the owner if the car has one. Because when cleaning the interior or doing repairs, you can accidentally catch it. This anti-theft system is very simple. One terminal of the switch is connected to ground, and the second to the signal wire of the Hall sensor. The symptoms are the same as when the alarm is on. The engine spins but there is no spark. The way out of the situation is to disconnect the wire going to the tachometer in the block above the vacuum brake booster.

Another commonplace malfunction is the breakdown of the Hall sensor itself. The symptoms are the same as in the two previous cases. True, sometimes, in the event of a partial failure, a spark may occasionally jump out and the engine will make several “sneezes”. Only replacing the sensor will help. To do this, you need to disassemble the ignition distributor. Often the wire simply breaks. Therefore, in the event of a breakdown on the road, the best solution would be to insulate the wire and drive to the repair site.

Poor starting of the VAZ 2107 engine in the cold season

Almost all the problems with the VAZ 2106 engine listed above are typical for the warm season. Poor starting of the “six” engine in winter should be discussed separately. The main reason for this phenomenon is obvious: frost. Due to the low temperature, the engine oil thickens, as a result, the starter simply cannot crank the crankshaft at a high enough speed. In addition, the oil in the gearbox also thickens. Yes, when the engine starts, the car is usually in neutral gear. But on it, the shafts in the gearbox are also rotated by the engine. And if the oil thickens, these shafts create a load on the starter. To prevent this from happening, you need to fully depress the clutch when the engine starts. Even if the car is in neutral gear. This will take the load off the starter and speed up the start of a cold engine. There are a number of other typical problems due to which the engine cannot start in cold weather. Let's list them:

• poor compression in the engine.
  This problem is very often observed in old “sixes” with high mileage: compression in the cylinders in the cold becomes very low. Not only can compression be low, but it can also be different. For example, in two cylinders it is normal, in the other two it is low. If the driver has found out that the reason for poor engine starting is low compression, and the car needs to be started urgently, then you should unscrew all the spark plugs and add a little engine oil to the combustion chambers (it is better to do this using a syringe - five “cubes” of oil in each cylinder will be sufficient). After this, you should crank the starter of the car several times without screwing in the spark plugs. The spark plugs are then screwed into place and the engine starts as the engine oil significantly increases compression in the cylinders (albeit only briefly). And to completely eliminate the problem, a major overhaul of the engine should be carried out. And in particular - replacing the piston rings. Without this, normal compression in the cylinders cannot be restored. There is another way to start a hopelessly frozen car: use the so-called starting fluid. It is sold in auto parts stores. It is injected directly into the carburetor (to do this, you will have to unscrew the air filter cover). And if you don’t want to tinker with the filter cover in the cold, you can unscrew the spark plugs and inject liquid into the combustion chambers. This is also an option, although not as effective; Starting fluid helps start even a completely frozen car
• bad spark.
  If in summer this moment in the “six” does not prevent the driver from starting the engine, then in winter the situation can change dramatically. Most often, the problem occurs due to poor contact in various plugs, especially those located on the ignition coil and on the distributor. The fact is that the plugs on these parts very often oxidize, and this causes a decrease in spark strength. Understanding how strong a spark is is very simple. The main wire is removed from the distributor and brought to the valve cover at a distance of one centimeter. Having secured the wire in this position, turn the starter several times. If a spark reaches the valve cover at a distance of one centimeter, then everything is fine with it. If not, you should carefully check all plugs and contacts for oxidation. It is best to hold the spark plug when checking the spark strength using pliers with insulated handles.

Thickened oil

If in summer you can fill in oil with a lower viscosity or 20w40, then in severe frosts it freezes. It becomes very difficult to turn the crankshaft with frozen oil, so the manufacturer recommends using motor oils with a viscosity of 5w40 for the winter.

Another solution to this problem is the use of pre-heaters, which are connected to a 220 V network and heat up the antifreeze. Due to the heat transfer of the metal parts of the VAZ 2109 carburetor engine, the oil becomes thinner, and the engine can operate safely even in severe frosts.

VAZ 2109 Carburetor Doesn't Start When Cold

Why is it difficult to start a cool VAZ-2109 and what to do

Often, owners of VAZ "Nines" are faced with a problem when the car has difficulty starting when cold. It’s worth warning right away that there are possibly several circumstances here. Therefore, it is better to start the search with the most common, gradually moving on to the more complex.

Possible reasons why a VAZ-2109 car is difficult to start when cold

It should be noted right away that when performing a search, you should definitely take into account what kind of engine you have.

These will be general prerequisites, but the search method for the injection (16 valves) will differ slightly from the carburetor.

Advice

The first option, it’s no secret, was put on the “nine” of later issues. The majority of cars in this family were equipped with carburetor engines (8 valves).

As written earlier, it is simply impossible to give a clear answer to the question why the car does not start well when it is cold. Speaking in general, the main prerequisites here are the following:

• weak battery charge;
• broken valve clearances;
• poor condition of the ignition coil, high-voltage wires, spark plugs;
• contamination of the throttle valve, also called the fuel filter;
• air leaking past the carburetor;
• Idle air valve clogged.

It should also be noted that if you have an LPG system, then the car must be started on gasoline, not gas. We also cannot exclude a problem with the fuel pump service. A more obvious reason is a dead battery.

Checking this is painfully simple - turn on the headlights and see how brightly they shine. In general, the sound of a rotating starter will indicate the problem for you. The last time, it may not spin at all.

This means that the battery is very deeply discharged.

The VAZ won’t start and floods the VAZ spark plugs! found the reason answer here

VAZ WILL NOT START

AND FILLS THE CANDLES
ON THE VAZ
WHY
DOESN’T IT START
, FLOWS THE CANDLES ON
THE VAZ
. REASON.

Now let's look at typical problems for a carburetor engine. One of them is the lack of fuel in the float chamber. Accordingly, it should be pumped up using the lever on the gas pump.

Also try tapping on the carburetor, it is quite possible that the needle valve needle is stuck in the up position when the fuel supply is shut off. Check the spark plugs - if they are wet, the fuel mixture is too rich. The problem is solved by adjusting the carburetor.

By the way, there may be such a reason as the mixture being too lean. In this case, you will also need to adjust the carburetor. You can check high-voltage wires in the dark. To do this, start the car, turn off the headlights and look under the hood.

Often, it is the incorrect operation of one of them that results in problems when starting from a cold state. By the way, the quality of the fuel also plays an important role. Therefore, it is better not to refuel at dubious gas stations - the savings will be pitiful, while the risk of problems arising here is very high.

Often it is its wear that causes you to be unable to start the engine normally when cold. However, if such problems are not observed when hot, then everything is in order with this unit.

In addition, the reasons may be in the distributor, switch, ignition coil or incorrect ignition settings.

note

In “nines” with an injection engine, pay special attention to the sensors. Problems such as a clogged fuel nozzle of the idle system or a malfunction of the solenoid valve are quite common.

It is also recommended to inspect all hoses and tubes leading to the carburetor. It is quite possible that the problem is caused by the leakage of foreign air. You should also not discount the starter itself.

Moreover, eliminating them can cost you a pretty penny.

There is a special offer on our website. You can get a free consultation with our corporate lawyer by simply submitting your question in the form below.

Serious damage

And here it’s worth starting with a broken timing belt. The motor spins, but very easily, since the valves are all open. Check the belt right away to see if it is in place. Moreover, sometimes it happens that the front part is intact, but the back part, which runs along the roller and pump, is torn. Remove protection and check integrity. Of course, you can’t do without replacing the belt, so there should always be one in stock, at least a little “alive”.

If the engine does not start, but the starter spins quickly without engaging the flywheel crown, then we can conclude that the teeth have worn out. Try turning on third gear and pushing the car forward 30 centimeters. The crankshaft will turn a little and there will be a whole section of the crown opposite the starter. If the wear is too great, you will have to start it only from a tug.

Breakdown of the starter and oxidation of the negative wires can also cause the engine to not start. In the case of the starter, there are two most common breakdowns - the bendix, or more precisely, the overrunning clutch, and the brushes. It is very easy to check the overrunning clutch; you just need to turn the gear in both directions. In one it should rotate freely, but in the other it should not rotate.

Does your beloved old Zhiguli often present problems, refusing to start, does its engine stall at the most inopportune moment? Common situation. Let us first consider the problem from the theoretical side. For any internal combustion engine to operate, it requires the presence of 3 factors - air, fuel and a spark that ignites the air-fuel mixture sucked into the cylinders.

Some practical advice for experienced motorists:

• To begin with, by turning on the ignition, we determine whether the starter is spinning. If not, then it’s a no brainer what’s going on. When the ignition is turned on, a charged battery emits a characteristic click of the retractor relay.
• Afterwards, if the starter passes the test, we check the fuel availability sensors, or better yet, look into the tank itself.
• One can no longer cope alone. We find an assistant to crank the starter using the ignition key and, having unscrewed any spark plug with the necessary precautions, poke it into the high-voltage wire and short it to ground, holding it a centimeter from the target. There is a spark - great. The carburetor does not start, the starter turns, there is a spark. Using the same method, we check for the presence of a spark on the central wire and, if there is, then everything is fine.
• The absence of a spark in the first case means an unambiguous replacement of the commutator, and in the second - a malfunction of the coil (“the woman” fails very rarely, but this also happens).

Idle air control malfunctions

If the VAZ 2109 starts and stalls, then the cause may be a problem in the idle system. First, be sure to look at the solenoid valve. Most often it is this that causes the malfunction.

To check the valve, you will need to start the engine at low speeds. It may stall, so you need to use a quality screw. After this, pull out the EMG wire plug while the engine is running. If the engine operation does not change after this, check the voltage on the EMG. To do this, bring the chip with the wire to the valve. There should be a slight click. Of course, this must be done with the engine turned off.

If there is no power, the problem must be corrected. The cause of this problem may be the economizer control unit. Check it, and replace if necessary.

But there may also be a situation where tension is present, but the problem still does not go away. In this case, check the valve.

To check it, you need to remove the special fuel nozzle from the EMG. Next you will need to secure the valve wire. Take the EMG contact and apply a plus to it. You can even use a battery for this. When you apply plus, the valve should operate. If it didn’t work, then you have found the reason why the carburetor starts and stalls in the VAZ 2109

But if even after these manipulations the idle speed does not appear, it is worth trying to clean some parts in the carburetor. In particular, you will have to clean the idle air passages. This can be done using a can of compressed air. The same needs to be done with fuel jets. This will clean them of dirt.

One of the main symptoms of a carburetor malfunction is that it is leaking. This is the name for the condition of the carburetor when a small stream of gasoline pours out of the spout. If it is working properly, then there should not be such problems.

Popular causes of malfunction

The most common reasons account for about 95% of all cases when the starter does not turn. That’s why we pay attention to them first.

We recommend: Correct installation of piston rings

The starter does not turn differently in different situations. It is important to take this into account and clearly monitor all associated symptoms. So, even without the help of specialists, you will be able to return the unit to operation and resume normal operation of the ignition system

Bendix

Often, simply disassembling and cleaning the internal components of the starter can eliminate problems with its functionality. Therefore, after removing the device and not finding damaged elements inside it, try to thoroughly clean everything, assemble it and put it back in place. It is likely that the starter will start turning.

Malfunctions due to air entering the fuel system

The problem can also occur due to improper operation of the fuel system. As a result of its malfunction, the air supply may increase, which will lead to a too weak fuel mixture. The fuel will not be able to burn normally in the cylinders, which is why the VAZ 2109 starts and immediately stalls.

There may be several reasons for this problem:

• First of all, this can happen due to damage to the carburetor. Then air will be sucked in in the area between the cover and the body of the device;
• Due to the fact that the lower platform of the HRSG does not fit well to the collector;
• If the connection in the VUT is broken. This may occur due to a ruptured hose;
• If the vacuum booster is completely faulty.

First of all, you need to check whether the vacuum booster is really faulty. To check this, you just need to disconnect its hose from the intake manifold. Next, you will need to plug the fitting and start the car.

If the problem lies in the vacuum booster, then this can be easily determined by the operation of the engine after the manipulations have been performed. If it starts to work better after plugging the fitting, then the problem really lies with the VUT. If you see air hissing in the area of ​​the vacuum booster, or the engine begins to lose speed when you press the brake pedal, then the problem is an air leak. This malfunction can also occur if the EMR diaphragm is broken. Check this part by simply unscrewing a few screws on the installed carburetor. If necessary, it will need to be replaced.

Incorrect ignition timing

If the VAZ 2109 starts poorly not only when cold, but also when hot, then the problem may affect the ignition system. An incorrect advance angle impairs starting properties, making starting difficult.

Typically, starting problems occur with late ignition. In this case, you can notice black smoke from the exhaust pipe, the electrodes of the spark plugs become covered with black soot, and popping noises are heard in the muffler when you press the accelerator pedal. You can try turning the distributor a few degrees or adjusting the ignition from scratch. The problem should go away.

However, an angle that is too early results in:

1. Detonation;
2. Engine overheating;
3. Leaning the mixture.

Possible reasons why a VAZ-2109 car is difficult to start when cold

As mentioned above, it is simply impossible to give an exact answer to the question why the car does not start well when cold. Generally speaking, the main reasons are as follows:

• weak battery charge;
• broken valve clearances;
• poor condition of the ignition coil, high-voltage wires, spark plugs;
• contamination of the throttle valve or fuel filter;
• air leaking past the carburetor;
• Idle air valve clogged.

It should also be noted that if you have an LPG system, then the car needs to be started on gasoline, not gas. A problem with the operation of the fuel pump cannot also be ruled out. The most common reason is a dead battery. It's very simple to check this - turn on the headlights and see how bright they shine. However, the sound of a rotating starter will indicate the problem. The latter, by the way, may not rotate at all. This means that the battery is very deeply discharged.

Quite often, problems such as a clogged fuel jet of the idle system or a malfunction of the solenoid valve occur. It is also recommended to inspect all hoses and tubes leading to the carburetor. It is quite possible that the problem is caused by the leakage of foreign air. You should also not discount the starter itself. Often it is its wear that causes you to be unable to start the engine normally when cold. However, if such problems are not observed when hot, then everything is in order with this unit. In addition, the reasons may be in the distributor, switch, ignition coil or incorrect ignition settings.

Source

What to do if you can’t pull it?

You can also often encounter other machine breakdowns that you can quickly fix yourself. You can often hear that the car “does not pull.” First of all, the phenomenon is associated with low pressure on the ramp. When the engine starts, it idles, but does not pick up speed.

In these modes, the fuel pump requires greater performance, which it provides. If the car does not pull hot, you need to check the air flow meter and spark plug.

Any car owner can diagnose the breakdown and fix the problem at home. The main thing is to approach the work carefully and after fixing the problem, the car will be a joy to use for a long time. The owner will be satisfied, having a practical, very convenient machine, easy to operate and repairable.

Each car is unique and, knowing the main requirements for repair and movement, the car will drive without problems and will not need to replace spare parts. Each breakdown must be quickly repaired and reliably fixed.