Transmissions are not included. Appears when the engine is running

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As you already understand, we will talk specifically about a manual “box” and about shifting gears (or rather, not shifting) on it. I have quite a lot of experience in this area; I personally repaired cars such as VAZ 2114, VAZ 2110 (and the 10th family in general). To say that there are global differences between foreign cars, there really aren’t any! So if your speed is not cut off, then the reasons may be similar. In general, the article will be useful, at the end, as usual, there is a video...

A fairly large number of such questions come to me, especially from novice drivers of our VAZs! Especially with front-wheel drive, because in rear-wheel drive cars the lever was installed in the manual transmission itself. I want to answer everyone right away - the problem of non-inclusion may not always be cardinal! Often it’s a small matter, something just got loose or unscrewed from time to time, as a rule, this happens in 50% of cases.

Therefore, I will try to break the material into two large components - simple and complex faults.

I suggest starting with simple faults.

Gearbox linkages and rods

I remember I was “infuriated” on the VAZ 2114 by the fact that the gearbox lever was swinging from side to side like a “spoon in a glass”; I always wanted to make it stiffer, in some way. But there was only one way, to climb down the car and play with the scenes and rods. In principle, they can be released, tightened, the lever can be adjusted for tilt, etc. In general, I played around, but I noticed that if I press the lever too hard to the left, the ability to engage gear (first and reverse) disappears. This manifests itself when the car is not running, I’m already silent about the running engine.

Often the slides break, or they fly out of the fastenings, or the wear is simply enormous and they need to be replaced (this happens with high mileage). The very first thing we do is climb under the car and look at them.

Gears are difficult to engage with the engine running: possible reasons

At the very beginning, it should be noted that the inability to engage a gear with the engine not running may indicate a serious gearbox malfunction, which consists of failure of the synchronizers. The second reason may be wear or breakage of the gears. It is also possible that the components and mechanisms responsible for transmitting force from the lever in the cabin to the gearbox when selecting a gear may become jammed.

To accurately determine the causes, in the first case it will be necessary to remove the box for disassembly and subsequent troubleshooting; in the second case, it is necessary to identify and replace broken components. In some cases, it is enough to carry out their prevention: removal, lubrication and careful adjustment.

As for problematic switching when the internal combustion engine is running, then the list of the most common faults includes:

lack of gear oil in the gearbox;
problems with the clutch mechanism;

Drive and clutch cables

For rear-wheel drive models (VAZ 2101 - 2107), the gears are engaged hydraulically. That is, when you press the clutch, the fluid pushes the piston, which in turn pushes the clutch fork, which retracts the disc. For front-wheel drive models (VAZ 2108 - 2115), there is no hydraulic connection; everything is done here by mechanics, or rather by the clutch cable, which is connected to the pedals. If your slave cylinder leaks on a rear-wheel drive car or the cable breaks on a front-wheel drive car, the car will not engage in gear. The “fork” simply won’t work. We just check and replace damaged parts.

Engine mounts

I personally have never had this happen, but many people write that this is a fairly common problem. Actually, the problem is this: the engine hangs on cushions, the gearbox is connected to it (manual transmissions, by the way, have their own cushions). It happens that the fastening breaks, or it unscrews. The engine or “box” may sag, the scenes may break, or they will hit something.

THEN there is another not very serious problem - these are pillows! If the programs don’t turn on, then we watch them.

These malfunctions, AS I THINK, ARE NOT PROBLEMS AT ALL! Anyone can identify them on pits or lifts, and this is done quite quickly. Personally, I came across rockers and cables, using the example of a VAZ, a clutch cable.

However, if you have checked everything, and the gears do not engage with the engine running. Then it’s worth looking at the box itself and the accompanying attachments. Let's move on to complex faults.

First speed is not fixed

When starting to move from a standstill at first speed, especially from difficult ground such as sand and snow, you have to hold the gear shift lever, since it does not hold on its own, the gear is switched to neutral. There can be three reasons for this failure:

The link is loose and does not fix the fork;
gear and coupling wear;
displacement of the engine on the mounts and knocking out the box.

The condition of the fasteners of all parts and assemblies should be completely checked. The gearbox is rigidly fixed to the engine. However, when the motor slides on cushions, the first speed may be knocked out. Tighten all bolts and check the rigidity of the mounting on the body. You can do this kind of work yourself.

Fasten the link more rigidly to the shift lever, select the backlash, because it is responsible for fixing the lever in the desired position. To do this, you need to put the car in a pit. Open the lid and check. Pay special attention to the condition of the gearing.

When worn, gears can slip and jump out without transmitting torque. When you press the lever with your hand, the clutch adheres forcefully and engagement occurs.

New box

There are problems when the car is picked up from a service station, but the gearbox of the VAZ 21093 does not engage the speed. At the same time, when the engine is not running, the shift lever moves smoothly, without a crack. As soon as you start the car, the gears stop shifting. First of all, check the movement of the gear and fork along the splines - along the axis of the shaft. Since you have opened the box, pay attention to the position of the driven disk, whether it is installed correctly.

If malfunctions are discovered shortly after servicing the car at a service center, you should not tinker with it yourself. Send your car back and let the locksmiths find and fix their problems themselves. Remember that you do not have to pay for reworking low-quality repairs.

Clutch fork

It’s rare, but it happens, for example, I had such a problem once on a VAZ 2105; the fork itself that retracted the clutch disc broke. Apparently it was not of very good quality. Why am I writing this down as a complex problem, because in order to replace it, you often need to remove the entire box, and this is no longer easy! Especially on front wheel drive. ALTHOUGH now people's “masters” in garages change it without removing the manual transmission.

Release bearing

The clutch fork is connected to the release bearing; it is this bearing (under the influence of the fork and your foot) that presses the clutch petals and disconnects the disc from the flywheel and basket. If the bearing is “covered”, then this process becomes very difficult. To be fair, it is worth noting that the gears will still be switched on, but it will be very difficult! With crunching, whistling and other jokes. It's worth changing it. However, again you will need to remove the transmission

Clutch basket

Over time, the clutch basket fails on all cars with a manual transmission. Sometimes it’s due to wear and tear, sometimes the petals or the so-called “spider” break. Let me start, perhaps, with the “spider”, this is a mechanically fixed release bearing on several extensions (done like this on some VAZs), if the extension breaks, then it cannot be effectively fixed to the basket - the gears do not engage.

Next, the petals of the box break, or they become weakened. This leads to the fact that it is very difficult, almost impossible, to release the clutch disc. Therefore, the “speeds” do not switch – we just change the basket.

Well, the last wear and tear is the basket disk. It has a metal disk inside, and over time, especially from high mileage, wear forms there. When starting, the car will shake, and if the wear is very large, the gears may not shift.

In any case, we need to change the clutch basket.

Types of checkpoints

Manual transmission

Today, all cars are equipped with one of three types of gearboxes.

Mechanical. Speed shifting is done manually using a special lever.
Automatic. No external influence is required to change gears. Switching is carried out depending on the degree of pressure on the brake and gas pedals. In this case, reverse gear is engaged manually.
CVTs. This is a mixed type of gearbox, where the bulk of the work is performed automatically, but if necessary, the gearbox is switched to manual mode.

Clutch disc and flywheel

In fact, wear occurs both at the clutch disc and at the flywheel itself. However, here, most likely, the gears will shift, but slip! You release the clutch pedal, but slippage occurs, that is, the car does not move, and it may jerk.

We look at the disk, maybe change it. We also look at the wear on the flywheel! If it is large, then we change it completely.

From experience I can say that our working VAZ 2111 was used mainly intercity, after 2 - 3 years the mileage was very high. The following symptoms began to appear: the gears turned on very poorly when the engine was running! We removed the manual transmission, looked at the basket - clutch disc - flywheel. And everything went for replacement, there was a lot of wear, and one petal on the basket was cracked. They even changed the release lever and the fork.

If the reason is not eliminated even now, then the problem is in the gearbox itself! It's worth taking it apart and looking at it

Synchronizers

If, when the engine is running, you do not engage gears, or shifts occur with VERY great effort and CRUNCHING! Then there may be a problem with the manual transmission synchronizers. Without going too deep, these are soft gears (usually brass or copper) that synchronize the shafts for soft and fast shifting. If they wear out, then shifting may disappear altogether! In general, we are definitely changing.

First gear does not engage when driving

Often, when you turn on first gear while the car is moving, it jams and does not work. There are no problems when starting to move from a place. Some “experts” even put forward the theory that you should only start moving from the first gear, and should not use it during maneuvers.

This problem occurs because the injectors do not have time to equalize the torque of the gears, and the driver forcibly tries to connect them. The flywheel spins much faster than the drive shaft and the teeth can fly if the force is large.

Don't rush to press the lever. Bring it to neutral, push it lightly into first gear, and wait for the synchronizers to do their job and the gear to engage.

For old boxes there are instructions for switching with re-gas. When downshifting while driving, move the handle to neutral, step on the gas, increase the speed, and then smoothly change gear. This method is used by owners of preserved vintage cars, the price of which has recently increased significantly.

As a result of the constant stress to which the manual transmission and clutch are subjected, most drivers are increasingly beginning to notice problems with shifting gears.

However, not everyone has time to respond to them in a timely manner, because often the only sign of a manual transmission malfunction is not fully engaging the gears or starting them with a slight stretch. Therefore, in order to avoid serious problems in the future, you should very carefully monitor such manifestations and promptly eliminate the cause that provoked their occurrence. It is better to immediately seek help from a car service, for example, if you are from St. Petersburg, then here https://spb-avtoremont.ru/p264438239-remont-kpp-mkpp.html.

Manual transmission bearings

And the last thing that could be the bearings - although they are very strong in the box, sometimes they also “stick”. The box will work like a tractor, especially when warm.

In any case, if you have problems in the gearbox itself, then this is an expensive repair. It is also better to entrust it to professionals, because the gearbox is a very complex mechanism.

As you can see, there are quite a few reasons, but in fairness it is worth noting that mechanical transmissions are a fairly reliable unit; they themselves break down quite rarely, especially if you change the transmission fluid on time and pour a branded one of very good quality.

If the gears do not engage, then these are most likely “attached” problems, starting from the rockers and cables, ending with the basket, clutch disc and flywheel.

Now let’s take a look at a short video version of my article.

And that's ALL for me! I think the information will definitely be useful, read our AUTOBLOG.

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New or refurbished old?

If replacing the gearbox cannot be avoided, it is worth considering one very attractive option - installing a rebuilt gearbox. To do this, companies purchase old, damaged boxes, restore them to the highest possible quality and offer installation with a guarantee.

As practice shows, such gearboxes are approximately 30-70% cheaper than purchasing a new gearbox.

There is only one important condition for successful savings on such significant repairs. It must be a reliable, proven company.

Such companies value their own reputation, so they do not deal with fakes or low-quality repairs. In order to receive positive customer feedback and attract new customers, they simply must do everything well, conscientiously. That’s why today there are fly-by-night companies and companies where, over the years of work, they have established themselves as a reliable and responsible specialist in repairing and replacing gearboxes. You yourself understand perfectly well who you need to contact if you have problems with your box.

Transmissions are not included. Appears when the engine is running - the main problems