Let's look at the reasons why the fuel-injected VAZ 2114 doesn't start well when cold.

VAZ 2114, the problem is that when cold, after the first start it immediately stalls. It starts the second time, but the engine is unstable and stalls! As it warms up everything returns to normal!

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Yes, this is not a normal phenomenon and is very bad, because it’s winter, and in severe frosts it happens that the battery energy for the first start in the morning is only enough for one attempt, and you need to be sure that your engine will start immediately after the first crank.

In order to eliminate the problem that you described in your question, you need to flush the throttle assembly and the idle air regulator (IAC). When asking such a question, people most often do not know what exactly needs to be done, where to start and how to finish the work, so I will describe the service process to you in as much detail as possible.

We are talking about this device installed on the intake manifold of your engine.

Few tools are required for this work: a Phillips and slotted screwdriver, and a 13mm socket. Also, be sure to buy a new gasket for the throttle assembly and a can of carb cleaner in advance.

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This domestic cleaner will also work

Before starting work on the engine, first always disconnect the terminals on the battery (it is enough to disconnect one “negative”).

Next you need to remove the air duct running from the air filter to the throttle body.

To do this, loosen the clamps at the ends of this corrugated air duct (marked with blue arrows) and it will easily be removed. If it interferes here on the engine, then disconnect the breather hose and remove the air duct from under your hands

Disconnect the heating hoses supplying coolant (marked with yellow arrows). To avoid antifreeze leakage, leave the ends of the hoses in the upper position, or plug them with something (you can screw in bolts of a suitable size).

Disconnect the chips with wires for two sensors IAC and TPS

Also disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose from the throttle body, it is on the top, and remove the adsorber hose from the bottom. In order not to guess when assembling which hose to connect where, you can mark them with a marker, let’s say make a mark on one with one stick, on the other with two sticks, and leave the same marks on the throttle assembly, or else take a photo of this whole thing before disassembling (when washing the remote control marks may be washed off with solvent).

All that remains is to disconnect the throttle cable and unscrew the two nuts securing the remote control (do not lose the washers and spring washers (grower)

Well, now you can actually remove the throttle assembly itself from the studs. Unscrew the two IAC fastening bolts.

Here it is at the bottom of the step-by-step idle speed control (marked with a yellow arrow)

And wash it with carb cleaner. This part of it (marked with a purple arrow)

Or, you can buy a new one, since they sometimes fail, without a restoration option.

If there were no problems with the set of engine speeds, then it is best not to touch the TPS. This is the TPS sensor (marked with a blue arrow)

Main reasons and methods for solving them

Healthy! Maybe you are lucky and resetting the injector errors will help. To do this, you first need to remove the negative terminal from the battery. If after 5-10 minutes the car starts as well, then this is not the problem.

Difficulty starting the engine is influenced by a number of simple reasons, which you can eliminate yourself in the garage, having a standard set of tools with you.

Starter mechanisms (brushes, bendix)

In the process of rebuilding the starter. The arrow indicates worn brushes.

• On used cars, the brushes on the starter wear out. In this case, you need to remove the cover and replace them with new ones;
• A starter that has been in use for a long time can be sorted out, cleaned all the mechanisms, washed with WD-40 and filled with new lithol, since the old one is most likely coked and formed into balls;

Fuel problems

In the process of replacing the fuel pump grid. On the right is the old one, and on the left is the new coarse mesh

Small particles of debris getting into the gas tank . This problem is treated by cleaning the fuel system and replacing the filter.

Incorrect sensor readings

Failure or incorrect signal supply from the sensors to the ECU (their diagnostics are required, and if a malfunction is detected, replacement with new ones):

1. Speed ​​sensor.
2. Crankshaft position sensor.
3. Idle speed sensor.
4. Phase sensor.

Wires, filter and spark plugs

Clogged air filter

• High-voltage wires are broken , poor contact on the tips (oxidation). During a visual inspection, it is rarely determined whether the best option is to replace it with new or known good ones. Before replacing, you can clean (blow out) the contacts on the old wires.
• The spark plugs are flooded , mechanically damaged, or the gap is set incorrectly. If necessary, the following is done: new ones are screwed in, the required gap is set, or the old ones are returned to their place.
• The air filter is clogged , causing the air supply to the engine combustion chamber to deteriorate. It is recommended to replace with a new one.

Gasoline pump

The fuel pump is located under the rear seat

The fuel pump does not provide the required pressure , which is why the injectors do not spray fuel, but simply splash it. In order to discard this option, you need to measure the fuel pressure with a pressure gauge (the nominal one should correspond to the norm of 3.2 bar).

If the result is different, the situation requires replacing the fuel pump.

Engine failure

Reduced compression in the cylinders is one of the most terrible situations for a car owner. In this case, flammable gases enter the crankcase, and new vapors do not ignite.

Other reasons

It would seem that the bulk of probable malfunctions have already been listed, as well as methods for eliminating them. But it should be remembered that, in addition to problems with the fuel system and electrical systems, other factors can be the reasons for poor “grasping” of the engine. And the most common ones are bad fuel and unsuitable oil.

So, if you notice that the car has difficulty starting when cold, then try to refuel at other gas stations (preferably not just at others, but at gas stations from other companies). In some situations, this alone may be enough to solve the problem. The same applies to butter.

If summer oil is used in cold weather, this can also lead to poor engine performance at start-up. It is worth remembering this and always change the oil according to the current season.

Another source of trouble can be electronic sensors, and most often the crankshaft position sensor. It is he who transmits information to the controller, on the basis of which the ignition and fuel injection are controlled. It is very easy to find out about its malfunction - in this case, the check engine icon will light up on the dashboard. In order to check the condition of the sensor or replace it, you will have to contact the service department.

A faulty intake air volume sensor can cause no less trouble. Its breakdown can lead to serious problems with the ignition, including complete inability to start the car.

It is very easy to check this sensor yourself - just turn it off and try to start the car. If it starts the first time, then the problem was in this sensor, and it will have to be replaced with a new one.

Source

Possible consequences of long starter operation

When the starter is turned for a long time, the greatest damage is caused to the battery and starter. The first one loses its charge very quickly. When starting the engine, the starter consumes a lot of current, so the battery consumes most of its charge, which is then (after the engine has been started) replenished by charging from the generator.

Bendix failure

Old and new Bendix

With each such idle start, voltage from the battery is supplied to the bendix, which begins to rotate the shaft until the engine starts. At this moment, the splines on the bendix are severely worn out, and the bearing may also crumble or hum.

In these cases, there is only one way out - replacing the starter with a new one.

Won't start in the morning? Let's fix it!

There can be many reasons why a motorist finds it difficult to start the engine after parking overnight. This also applies to those situations where the car was started in the evening without any defects, but in the very morning the problems, as they say, are obvious.

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• About the expert:

Fan-auto

All my life I have been surrounded by cars! First, in the village, already in the first grade, I was rushing around on a tractor through the fields, then there was JAVA, then a penny. Now I am a third-year student at the Polytechnic Faculty of Automotive Engineering. I work part-time as a car mechanic and help repair cars for all my friends.

In this article, we will look at what are the main reasons that influence the difficulty of starting a VAZ-2112 with a cold engine and how you can quickly solve them.

The video above shows a standard example of how a VAZ-2112 cannot start when cold.

conclusions

For VAZ-2114 owners, the situation when you have to turn the starter for a long time when starting the engine is a fairly common occurrence. The reasons are discussed above and may relate to many systems: fuel, engine power system and others.

For some reason, it seems that many drivers of this model will be interested in the question of why the VAZ 2114 does not start well . Finding the cause of this phenomenon is not as easy as it might seem at first. This is due to certain difficulties in troubleshooting in this model, since injection systems differ from carburetor systems. The algorithm for identifying possible problems will be built differently, adapting to the design features of the machine.

Problems with the fuel supply system

Very often the VAZ 2114 8-valve injector does not start well in cold weather due to a malfunction of the fuel system. To check it and identify possible malfunctions, you will have to carry out diagnostics:

1. Electric pump.
2. Fuel filter.
3. Fuel line.

Troubleshooting should begin by inspecting the fuel pump. Checking it is quite simple - when turned on, it should buzz, which will indicate its operation. If no sound is heard, then the pump is faulty and will have to be replaced with a new one of a similar model.

The next common cause is clogging or destruction of the filter. Everything here is also simple - you just need to remove and inspect the filter and, if it is worn out, replace it with a new one.

If the filter, like the fuel pump, turns out to be working, you will have to measure the pressure inside the fuel line (for this, there are both special devices and entire testers that allow you to diagnose the entire fuel system. The simplest version of such a device costs just over 1,000 rubles). If the pressure in the line turns out to be normal, then you should think about other possible reasons.

Why is the VAZ 2114 8-valve injector difficult to start?

So why is the VAZ 2114 difficult to start? In fact, there can be simply a huge number of reasons for this problem! Here are the most common ones:

1. Malfunction in the electrical part of the car
2. The timing marks on the VAZ 2114 are not set correctly
3. No spark
4. VAZ 2114 crankshaft sensor faulty
5. Faulty starter, etc.

Let's talk in more detail about these faults and find out how to fix the problem of poor starting of the VAZ 2114 engine.

If the starter turns, but the car engine does not start

In this case, first of all you need to check whether there is a spark. You can do this as follows:

• all power wires with candlesticks must be disconnected;
• then one of the candles is unscrewed;
• neatly connects to the armored wire;
• Next, you need to place the spark plug housing on the cylinder block.

You should try to “turn” the starter - if after this a bright blue spark jumps between the central and side electrodes, then there are no problems. If there is no spark or is red, then the spark plug will need to be replaced. Even if out of 4 only one spark plug does not work well, the car will no longer start the first time.

VAZ 2114 does not start well - is it an electrical fault?

Electrical wiring VAZ 2114

A malfunction in the electrical part of the car, for some reason most of the problems lie here, so we will dwell in detail on each option here:

1. On a VAZ 2114, this usually indicates a violation in the ignition switch - starter line, but one of the reasons for the breakdown “for blondes” is a dead battery, do not forget about it (checked with a voltmeter: it should be at least 11.8 V - and with a hydrometer, if the battery is serviceable : at least 1.22 in each jar). Let's move on. The cause of such a malfunction may be a breakdown of the ignition switch cylinder, and the injector has nothing to do with it. If, when turning the key, new sensations arise (something catches, turning has become easier or, conversely, more difficult), that’s the problem.
2. Under the panel, approximately above the clutch, there are two relays: ignition switch and starter release. The reason may be a malfunction of one of them. They are checked according to the manual by a good electrician or replaced with a known working one.
3. Starter. Often the cause may be a jammed “retractor”. If you are standing in a field, you should try hitting it with something heavy like a large key (without fanaticism) - it may help. If the car is parked in a garage, you should remove the starter and try to start it directly from the battery. To do this, press the housing to the zero terminal of the battery, install the wire with the alligator clip on the positive terminal of the battery and bring it to the positive of the retractor. If the starter makes an attempt to jump out of your hands, everything is fine (be careful, it is not recommended to carry out this procedure without basic knowledge of safety precautions and an assistant!). If there is no reaction, the problem is in the retractor. If the relay buzzes, but the starter does not turn, the problem is in the brushes. If the starter makes a terrible sound, but does not turn, the problem is in the bendix. If the starter turns, replace the battery and check the power supply to the chips that are connected to the starter (with an assistant, one turns the key, the other measures it with a multimeter).

Power system malfunctions

The VAZ 2107 car engine is a proven and reliable unit. If the power unit does not start, the following problems in the power system are possible:

1. The standard carburetor is clogged or the fuel level in the float chamber is not correct.
2. The starter membrane is damaged.
3. The tightness of the tube connecting the device to the vacuum brake booster is broken.
4. Damage to the fuel pump membrane.

To eliminate the above listed malfunctions, the carburetor should be disassembled, followed by defective parts and cleaning of all jets and channels. During this operation, special attention is paid to the condition of gaskets and membranes. The car may not start normally due to air leaks in the absence of tightness between parts and damage to the lines.

The VAZ engine does not start well either hot or cold - the fuel pump may be faulty. In this case, the carburetor does not receive the required amount of fuel, which leads to a lean mixture. As a result, the power unit does not start, especially after a long stay, when the fuel level in the float chamber is extremely low.

The timing marks on the VAZ 2114 are not set correctly

Another reason why the VAZ 2114 does not start may be a mismatch of the timing marks. The reason for the mismatch of the marks may be weak timing belt tension, cut teeth, or the crooked hands of a mechanic at a service station. A discrepancy of more than two teeth will noticeably affect the operation of the engine of the fourteenth.

With a slight deviation, the engine starts up a little worse, does not hold idle, and stalls when switching to neutral gear. If the deviation exceeds 4-5 teeth, the sound of the engine changes, air escaping under pressure through the valves that are not opened in time becomes audible, thrust noticeably disappears, and starting the engine is extremely problematic. To check, we need a “10” key; use it to unscrew the three bolts securing the timing case.

Next, put the car in 5th gear and push it until the mark on the camshaft pulley and the rear cover match, you can also turn the pulley with the key to “17.” Remove the protective plug from the clutch housing and see if the mark on the flywheel matches the mark, if not then you need to loosen the tension roller and align the belt according to the marks.

Pre-launch inspection and preparatory activities

If a VAZ 2107 car starts poorly when hot or does not function at all in normal mode, this means a loss of settings or an accumulation of minor faults. Engine technical inspection includes the following steps:

1. Checking the levels of operating fluids in the engine crankcase, gearbox, cooling system and brake system.
2. Carefully inspect the external surfaces of the engine for oil, antifreeze or fuel leaks. Particular attention is paid to the high-voltage wires that are connected to the spark plugs; the contacts must be clean without signs of burning or damage.
3. During long-term parking of several days, gasoline evaporates from the float chamber, and the level is replenished using a hand pump.

The next action of the driver of the VAZ 2107 is an attempt to start the engine. To do this, you need to take a seat behind the wheel and set the gear shift lever to neutral. When turning on the starter, it is recommended to depress the clutch pedal to reduce the load on the battery. If the engine does not start after 5–10 rotations with the starter, you should stop trying and carefully inspect the carburetor and other components.

VAZ 2114 starts poorly - no spark

The ignition module is one of the key problems of the VAZ 2114 on the injector. It breaks often and sometimes a new one comes with a defect. You can read more about checking the ignition module in other material on our website. Please note that the problem may also lie in the chip that is connected to the module. The presence of power on it must also be checked.

DPCV is another reason why there may be no spark. Since this sensor monitors the firing phases of the cylinders, it is one of the key elements of the ignition system. Note that the probability of its failure is lower than that of the ignition module. It is checked by an electrician using an oscilloscope; garage methods do not provide an accurate assessment of the condition of the sensor (only replacement with a guaranteed working one).

ECU. “January” is a relatively reliable injector, but the “brains” can also malfunction from time to time. Often the problem with them is identified by a violation of the injection phases: for example, a spark is supplied only to cylinders 2 and 4, or only to cylinders 1 and 3. Sometimes the issue can be resolved by simply cleaning the contacts on the ECU chip; it is also subject to oxidation, which causes signal loss.

Starter malfunctions

The VAZ 2107 car is started using an electric starter. The main difficulties arise due to the following reasons:

1. Low battery level.
2. Solenoid relay failure.
3. Overrunning clutch failure.

If the carburetor is working properly and the ignition system is configured correctly, then most often the car will not start due to a broken starter. First of all, the charge level is checked; if it is insufficient, we remove it from the car and recharge it. If necessary, the mechanism is dismantled for repair or replacement.

Practice shows that eliminating the above malfunctions on an engine that starts poorly or does not start at all allows you to achieve a good result. Experts recommend checking first the carburetor, which is prone to clogging, and other systems that ensure a reliable start.

Popping sound when starting the VAZ 2106 engine

Popping noises when starting the engine is another unpleasant phenomenon that sooner or later every owner of a “six” encounters. Moreover, the car can “shoot” both at the muffler and at the carburetor. Let's consider these points in more detail.

Popping sounds in the muffler

If the “six” “shoots” at the muffler when starting the engine, it means that the gasoline entering the combustion chambers has completely flooded the spark plugs. Fixing the problem is quite simple: you need to remove the excess fuel mixture from the combustion chambers. To do this, when starting the engine, press the gas pedal all the way. This will ensure that the combustion chambers are quickly purged and the engine will start without unnecessary pops.

The photo clearly shows that the contact part of the spark plug is completely filled with the fuel mixture

More information about the VAZ 2106 muffler: https://bumper.guru/klassicheskie-modeli-vaz/dvigatel/glushitel-vaz-2106.html

The problem is especially relevant in winter, when starting “cold”. After a long period of inactivity, the engine needs to warm up properly, and it does not need a too rich fuel mixture. If the driver forgets about this simple circumstance and does not reset the choke, then the spark plugs are flooded and popping noises inevitably occur in the muffler.

I will tell you one case that I personally witnessed. It was winter, thirty degrees below zero. A neighbor's guy in the yard was unsuccessfully trying to start his old carburetor "six". The car started, the engine ran for literally five seconds, then stalled. And so several times in a row. In the end, I recommended that he remove the choke, open the gas and try to start. The question followed: it’s winter, how can you start it without suction? He explained: you’ve already pumped too much gasoline into the cylinders, now you need to blow them out properly, otherwise you won’t go anywhere until the evening. Ultimately, the man decided to listen to me: he removed the choke, squeezed the gas all the way, and started starting. After a couple of turns of the starter, the engine started. After which I recommended that he pull out the choke a little, but not completely, and reduce it as the engine warms up. As a result, the engine warmed up properly and after about eight minutes it started working normally.

Popping sounds in the carburetor

If, when the engine starts, popping sounds are heard not in the muffler, but in the carburetor of the VAZ 2106, then this indicates that the choke is not working properly. That is, the working mixture entering the combustion chambers of the cylinders is too lean. Most often the problem occurs due to too much clearance in the carburetor choke.

When the starting gap increases, popping noises occur on the valve in the carburetor.

This damper is actuated by a special spring-loaded rod. The spring on the rod may weaken or simply fly off. As a result, the damper stops tightly closing the diffuser, which leads to a leaner fuel mixture and subsequent “shooting” in the carburetor. It is not difficult to find out that the problem is in the damper: just unscrew a couple of bolts, remove the air filter cover and look into the carburetor. To understand that the air damper is well spring-loaded, just press it with your finger and release it. After this, it should quickly return to its original position, completely blocking the access of air. There should be no gaps left. If the damper does not adhere tightly to the walls of the carburetor, then it is time to change the damper spring (and you will have to change it along with the rod, since these parts are not sold separately).

Video: cold start of a VAZ 2106 engine

So, there are a great many reasons why the “six” may refuse to start. It is not possible to list them all in one short article, but we have analyzed the most common reasons. The vast majority of problems that prevent the engine from starting normally can be resolved by the driver himself. To do this, you need to have at least a basic understanding of the operation of the carburetor internal combustion engine installed on the VAZ 2106. The only exception is the case with reduced compression in the cylinders. To fix this problem, unfortunately, you cannot do without the help of qualified auto mechanics.

Crankshaft sensor malfunction

If you are looking for the answer to the question “why does the VAZ 2114 stall when cold,” then pay attention to the crankshaft sensor. It is responsible for controlling ignition and fuel, and if its operation is disrupted, then processes in the engine will occur at the wrong time. You can easily diagnose the problem thanks to the check - if there is a malfunction, it will blink or light up. To replace the sensor, it is better to contact a service center. You can do this yourself, but it is advisable to drive onto an overpass or pit for convenience.

Less commonly, the mass air flow sensor fails, which will affect engine performance.

Let's sum it up

You should know that if you eliminate all the problems on the engine in cold weather listed above, then there is a high probability of “curing” the car. First of all, it is necessary to check the carburetor, which most often gets clogged among all units, and then inspect other systems responsible for a reliable and safe start.

It is important to pay attention to all the reasons every time. Even if they do not give reason to think about car breakdown. If diagnostics and subsequent repairs are started immediately, minor problems may occur. In other cases, there is a high probability of losing a sufficient amount of time to correct inoperative mechanisms. What about if the car suddenly stops starting at low temperatures. This cannot be avoided, no matter how much car enthusiasts want to. The most common problem is a low battery. However, even in this case it may break. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor all mechanisms and assemblies.