VAZ 21099 carburetor does not start? List of popular causes and fixes

The car is 2005 (21099 injector), I bought a new one, the problems started in the first winter. In warm weather or 1-2 hours after warming up, it starts with half a turn. But in cold weather in the morning, or after parking for more than 2 hours, starting it for at least 15-20 minutes is no longer realistic. At first a couple of minutes was enough, but it got worse and worse.

The plot is like this, at first it doesn’t even paw for 10-15 starts for 2-5 seconds, then sometimes it starts to pick up. If you drive it quickly for a couple of seconds in a row, wait 15 seconds, it starts, but after a couple of seconds it stalls again. After several such attempts it picks up. Then it warms up and drives all day - starts without problems. There is traction and everything is ok. In the morning everything starts from the beginning.

According to guesses, there is clearly not enough fuel when it is cold. Since after starting the traction is super, and everything else is also no problem.

Today, after 25 minutes of trying to start it, it was still not possible; in the end, sometimes it would start for 2-4 seconds, then it would stall. There is definitely gasoline in the tank. Tomorrow for service - but tell me where to start, since there are a lot of smart people at services.

PS What I noticed is that you can’t hear the fuel pump working, since during the day its buzzing for a couple of seconds is clearly audible, but not during a cold start.

Today I went for diagnostics. Nothing really worked out. I asked a friend to tow me to the diagnostics in the morning so that the car would be cold. So while the sensors were connected for a maximum of about 5 minutes in a warm garage, it started up almost the first time. But we noticed that the fuel pressure first dropped. They pushed me outside for a couple of hours.

A couple of hours later, already on the street with sensors and a laptop, when trying to start, the whims began again, but here the reason was obvious - voltage was not supplied to the fuel pump when it was cold.

They said there could be two reasons: 1) the alarm system, since the relay is in a power supply to the fuel pump, 2) the on-board computer itself is faulty.

So we ended up disconnecting the alarm (relay) for today to see what happens tomorrow morning. If it doesn’t help, I don’t even know, since the BC itself costs a lot (they said it’s a new type).

One more thing, they said the air sensor was not very good, showed about 2.6 something, they said it should be about 3. And the antifreeze temperature sensor showed too high a temperature, outside it was about 0, showed +8.5 (this sensor was replaced with a new one right away).

Based on driving experience, there are several reasons why the injector on a VAZ-2109 does not start in cold weather. Of course, the standard list of reasons is not exhaustive, since this problem can be caused by various things. Let's take a closer look.

Why does the VAZ-2109 injector not start in cold weather?

The reasons why this happens can be divided into two groups:

• problems in the fuel system;
• ignition faults.

As for the fuel system, the following can interfere with the operation of the injector:

• gasoline of low quality or with a high water content;
• clogged injectors or fuel filters;
• lack of pressure in the fuel line;
• improper formation of the fuel-air mixture.

The ignition system may have the following problems:

• an outdated or heavily discharged battery, due to which the starting current of the required strength is not produced, and the starter, in turn, cannot cope with cranking the engine;
• pierce armored wires;
• fuel floods the spark plugs, which should be dry;
• lack or absence of compression in the cylinders;
• timing distribution phases are disrupted.

Any problem can be fixed, and it is not necessary to contact a service center. If you have the hands and knowledge, then any problem can be fixed.

There are some “old-fashioned” methods on how to start an injector in winter.

Candles

Unscrew the spark plug, place it against ground and crank the starter. If there is a spark, then there is probably a problem in the fuel system. We will tell you about it later.

It is necessary to do otherwise when the unscrewed spark plug works properly, but it turns out to be wet. Here you should check the timing belt. The latter sometimes jumps off, which disrupts the correct gas distribution and, accordingly, the VAZ engine does not want to start.

If you see that the spark plugs are filled with fuel, then perhaps this very circumstance is preventing you from starting the engine. Dry them with a burner or on a gas stove burner. When they turn out to be wet again during the next attempt, you will have to find out why this happened.

If there is no spark, the cause is sought further. It often lies in problems:

• crankshaft pulley or sensor that controls its position (DCPV);
• computer.

In most cases, the VAZ model 2109 injector does not want to start precisely because of the failure of the DPKV. Failure of other sensors does not prevent the engine from starting, it will simply not work correctly.

First, check whether the connector leading to it is intact and whether the wires are in good condition. It is the destruction or contamination of these elements that most often interferes with the normal operation of the DPKV, while the device itself is reliable.

To test the sensor, just hold a piece of metal close to it and measure the output voltage. It will fall if the piece of iron is taken away, and rise when it is brought close.

Another reason why a VAZ may not start is the crankshaft pulley. The disadvantage of this unit is that its teeth are partially made of rubber, which means they can come off or even scroll. This affects the sensor readings, and the computer, guided by them, does not want to supply voltage to the spark plugs. It’s not difficult to check - remove the casing from the timing belt (inspect it at the same time), and then examine the pulley.

There is a high probability that there is no spark due to a faulty ignition. First you should make sure that the connector leading to it is intact. Installing a known-good module on a Lada that does not want to start will allow you to confirm your suspicions.

It is imperative to inspect all wires. A break in them, even with working devices, often leads to the inability to start the engine.

More about this

Let's exclude options when the injector starts easily at any time of the year and pay attention to problematic mechanisms. So, there are two options for starting the injector in cold weather: the “lighting” method and the pushing method.

Let's start with the “lighting up” method. In car enthusiast slang, this method means starting the engine using a battery, car or starting battery. In this case, it is important to comply with the following conditions:

• Use only cables with clamps. Connecting by hand can lead to malfunction and even explosion of the battery.
• there is no need to gas it too much so as not to load the generator;
• cars should not touch each other;
• do not confuse the polarity of terminal connections;
• After starting the engine, it is necessary to let the machines run for three minutes “in pairs”.

The push winding method is simpler and more straightforward, but it is also important to follow precautions. Simply put, this method is a regular tug. It is only suitable for cars with manual transmission. There is no way to start the automatic transmission with just one push. I must say that this method is one of the most popular. Even in films, they often show several people pushing a car that cannot start. However, as we have already found out, it is not suitable for all vehicles.

Among experienced car owners, the push method is the latest. They rarely resort to it. First, they still try to light a cigarette or use starting liquid. Note that the starting fluid is suitable for both carburetors and injectors. It can be injected by removing the air filter cover. Liquid is also injected into the injector, but here you must first remove the filter pipe.

You can also start your car in cold weather by doing the following:

• let the battery warm up thoroughly, blink the high beams or turn on music. This will put a strain on the battery;
• turn on the ignition and wait a little while the fuel pump pumps fuel;
• depress the clutch pedal;
• try to start the car again;
• turn on the starter for a few seconds;
• If it still doesn't start, depress the gas pedal.

Note that if the car does not start right away, you need to wait 15-20 minutes and repeat the entire procedure again. However, you should not make more than 3-4 attempts, as the battery may be damaged. If your battery is outdated, then you should not leave it in the cold. It is better to remove it and put it in a warm place so that you can start the car safely in the morning. If no manipulations help, you will have to resort to the lighting method. It is quite complex and requires a clear sequence in compliance with all standards, otherwise you can damage your car.

So, we looked at the main options for starting the VAZ-2109 injector. In practice, usually one of them manifests itself, unless, of course, there are serious breakdowns in the car. If you have tried all the methods and the car still does not start, then there is no way to do it without qualified help. Take your car to a technical service center, where a technician will find out the cause of the problem and fix it efficiently.

Guys, help, the VAZ 21099 injector does not start, everything seems to be working, there is a spark, there is pressure, it turns, it turns as if it is trying to grab it, I unscrew the damp spark plugs, I checked the ignition many times according to the marks. I installed the module with the wires in the same way, another installed the DPKV in the same way already I broke my head, the only thing I didn’t measure was compression, but everything happened strangely in the evening I came home fine in the morning, such a problem (((((.VAZ 21099 injector does not start.

Similar articles

19 comments on “Vaz 21099 injector does not start. VAZ 21099 injector does not start, everything seems to be working, there is a spark”

maybe the fuel pump. or burned my brains

Maybe the pulley, this fucking damper? The crankshaft sensor can’t read and the ignition is wrong. Could this be?

look at the hall sensor!

Pump up the wheels... did you clean the headlights?

But seriously, let me know in PM, I’ll tell you what and how it’s checked

Spare parts store for LADU -Low prices -Good quality -Competent sellers -Large assortment -Dispatched from a wholesale warehouse in Tolyatti

Maxim, I don't have it

Vyacheslav, there is a pump pumping pressure

Vova, the pulley is iron, I checked everything in place, it’s even on the marks

Damn, I had this on 99, but I don’t believe it myself, every night it started, you turn it, you turn it, and not like a friend said that it was cold during the day, it started perfectly, I changed the piston, everything was fine

Check the integrity of the injector control cable. I had something similar, it turned out one wire was frayed and shorted to the fuel line in the area of ​​the ramp. I soldered it, insulated it, secured it with internships - the bug was all fixed. The swallow runs and makes me happy.

Damn my head doesn't hurt anymore, what if there is no compression? Or at least somehow it should start if not

there may be many problems, an auto-diagnostician can quickly find the problem (not to be confused with a scanner)

yes, such things are difficult to solve in villages

From practice, the average time to find a problem (a VAZ car won’t start) is 10 minutes.

Anton, Hmm, in my case 3 days

Manya, the VAZ is a very simple car in terms of diagnostics; there is access to all important components, and if you have the knowledge and tools, problems do not arise.

Anton, Yes, there will be enough problems with this car if it breaks down, the thing is that this car is a VAZ 21099 injector from 1997, the brains are quantum 4.1, one detonation sensor, and what is it worth if it breaks down. Although in 4 years of terrible exploitation of this car, it has not seriously let me down until this moment (((

I had a similar problem on the 14k - the problem was in the ignition relay...

Registered: 06/17/2009 Messages: 1038 From: San Juan

It started up 100,500 times, everything drives normally, nothing unusual, but as soon as you turn it off, it’s the same story.

Now it won't start at all.

Registered: 04/17/2011 Messages: 3619

Registered: 11/17/2009 Messages: 5555 From: Los Yebenes

Registered: 06/17/2009 Messages: 1038 From: San Juan

Registered: 09/09/2009 Messages: 2472

Registered: 06/20/2010 Messages: 5585 From: Tambov

Registered: 09/09/2009 Messages: 2472

Registered: 09/17/2011 Messages: 13691 From: Hyperborea

Registered: 04/28/2010 Messages: 170 From: 68

Registered: 07/13/2007 Messages: 2799 From: Tambov City

Registered: 08/20/2009 Messages: 3377

Added after 2 minutes 46 seconds:

Registered: 06/17/2009 Messages: 1038 From: San Juan

Registered: 10/09/2007 Messages: 1322 From: Tambov

When cold weather sets in, the injection engine of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars should confidently start up to minus 30 degrees Celsius. But this is subject to certain conditions. For example, a fresh and well-charged battery, new spark plugs, a working coolant temperature sensor and the use of semi-synthetic or synthetic motor oil in the engine. Therefore, it is worth taking care of this minimum in advance, before the onset of frost.

Let's consider a situation where you need to start the fuel-injected engine of a VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 car that has been parked on the street all night at a temperature below minus twenty.

Starting the injection engine of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars in cold weather

— Turn on the low beam headlights for 10 - 12 seconds to revive the battery

— Press the clutch pedal five to seven times and hold it down

After starting, we do not release it immediately, but when the engine speed becomes stable.

We do not touch the gas pedal. On injection engines, there is no point in pressing it before starting the engine, since there is no accelerator pump from which fuel would enter the intake manifold.

— We start the engine, rotating its crankshaft with the starter until flashes appear in the cylinders

Spin as long as possible, but no more than 15 seconds.

In most cases, this is enough to start the car engine in cold weather.

If it doesn’t work, you can try again in a couple of minutes, when the battery comes to its senses.

— When restarting, lightly press the gas pedal while turning the crankshaft with the starter

The control unit monitors the position of the throttle valve, and if it is slightly open, it further enriches the fuel mixture, increasing the duration of fuel injection by the injectors. This should make starting easier.

You should not make more than three attempts to start the engine at once. Most likely the candles will be flooded. If the remaining battery charge allows, you should fully press the gas pedal and crank the starter for another 10 - 15 seconds. When the throttle is fully open, the engine cylinders are purged. Fuel is not injected at this moment. After purging, after some time you can repeat the start. Otherwise, it is worth replacing the spark plugs with dry ones.

Notes and additions

— A car that is used daily is much easier to start in cold weather than one that is driven occasionally.

— A car that has been parked overnight, at least under a canopy or other place not blown by the wind, is easier to start in the cold.

TWOKARBURATORS VK -More information on the topic in our VKontakte group

Registered: 06/17/2009 Messages: 1038 From: San Juan

It started up 100,500 times, everything drives normally, nothing unusual, but as soon as you turn it off, it’s the same story.

Now it won't start at all.

Registered: 04/17/2011 Messages: 3619

Registered: 11/17/2009 Messages: 5555 From: Los Yebenes

Registered: 06/17/2009 Messages: 1038 From: San Juan

Registered: 09/09/2009 Messages: 2472

Registered: 06/20/2010 Messages: 5585 From: Tambov

Registered: 09/09/2009 Messages: 2472

Registered: 09/17/2011 Messages: 13691 From: Hyperborea

Registered: 04/28/2010 Messages: 170 From: 68

Registered: 07/13/2007 Messages: 2799 From: Tambov City

Registered: 08/20/2009 Messages: 3377

Added after 2 minutes 46 seconds:

Registered: 06/17/2009 Messages: 1038 From: San Juan

Registered: 10/09/2007 Messages: 1322 From: Tambov

Surely every car owner has encountered a problem when his car will not start. It doesn’t matter whether it’s a VAZ 2109 or a foreign car. Everyone has the same symptoms. In today's article we will look at why the VAZ 2109 (including the carburetor and injector) does not start and how to fix this problem.

Battery

The first thing you should pay attention to is the battery. Especially if the car has been in a garage or parked for more than a week. The battery tends to lose its charge. This is especially common for motorists in winter. Overnight, a battery can lose up to 30 percent of its total charge. The solution to the problem is to charge the battery. However, there are situations when you need to go right away. There is a way out of the situation. To do this, you need to turn on the car's headlights for a while (1-2 minutes). In this way we activate the electrolyte in the battery, thereby increasing the voltage level. When the electrolyte comes into action, the battery warms up and the current increases accordingly.

Ignition

But what to do if the VAZ 2109 does not start even with a charged battery? The problem should be looked for in the ignition system. The first thing you should pay attention to is the distributor and its wires. Symptoms - the starter rotates, sometimes “grabs”, but does not start. And the motorist, confident that the car is “about to start,” turns the starter for 20-30 seconds. And so on until the battery dies again. This is absolutely impossible to do. The starter must be turned for no more than 5-7 seconds with a minute break. Otherwise you will simply drain the battery. It happens that the car does not start due to poor spark supply. This may occur due to a breakdown in one of the high-voltage wires that go from the ignition coil to the spark plugs. There are only four of them - one for each cylinder. A breakdown is indicated by the presence of sparks at the junction of the spark plugs and the wire. This is especially visible at night. Small sparks, usually blue and white, flash from time to time along the perimeter of the wire. If so, the element must be replaced. The service life of high-voltage wires on VAZ 2109 cars is 40-50 thousand kilometers.

Checking with the starter removed using a multimeter

This test of the solenoid relay allows you to very accurately perform internal diagnostics and determine the condition of the windings and contacts. Dismantling the starter, depending on the make of the car, is carried out in various ways. For VAZ 2110, this procedure is carried out from below from the pit. Before unscrewing the fasteners, remove the wires (it is better to mark the terminals so as not to confuse them during assembly); you may need to remove the crankcase protection.

To begin with, voltage is applied from the battery to the body and terminals of the relay; operation is accompanied by a characteristic click and visible movement of the rod. Further checks are carried out using a multimeter, which is switched to resistance measurement mode and the range of 200 Ohms is selected.

Video: Checking the starter removed from the car

First, check the serviceability of the retractor and retention coils. To do this, one of the probes is connected to ground, the second touches the contacts in succession. The device readings are 2 ohms. Deviation of the device readings from the specified value is a sign of a break or short circuit. To check the power contacts, remove the core from the relay body and remove the return spring, after which the core is inserted back. The core rod is pressed against the table with a certain force and the resistance between the contacts is replaced. The resistance is approximately 1.5 ohms.

What to do if there is no key?

If you don't have a spark plug wrench, you can dry the parts in another way. To do this, put the car in neutral and turn on the ignition. Then press the gas pedal to the floor and turn the starter for 5 seconds. Thus, a large amount of air will enter the combustion chamber - the candle will dry out successfully. It is important to remember that with this operation the amount of oil on the cylinder walls is reduced. Therefore, you should not abuse this method so that the motor does not run dry.

Dirty filter

Its blockage leads to the fact that the VAZ 2109 does not start. And it does not matter whether it is a carburetor engine or an injection engine. It is easy to check the condition of the air filter. On both carburetor and injection engines, you should remove the housing cover (the only difference is that on the first it is iron, and on the second it is plastic). Next, we take the element out and look at its condition. Paper filter elements should be light-colored. If they contain particles of dust and dirt, air cannot pass through them into the combustion chamber. Hence it turns out that the VAZ 2109 carburetor does not start: the starter turns, there is a spark. In winter, periodically inspect its external condition. A filter like the one in the photo on the right can no longer be used.

Starter

If it does not turn even with a charged battery, most likely it has become unusable. To replace it you need:

1. Remove the terminal block on the starter relay.
2. Unscrew and remove the electrical terminal of the traction relay.
3. Unscrew the engine protection bolts.

Next, the starter must be removed. To install a new element, you must follow some rules:

• Tighten all fastening nuts one at a time with uniform force. This way you reduce the risk of starter misalignment.
• Place the terminal onto the contact bolt and install all previously removed pads.
• Reinstall the standard engine protection.

And, of course, the main point when replacing this element is to first disconnect the battery terminal.

So, we found out why the VAZ 2109 does not start.

What to do if your car's fuel-injected engine won't start? What to do when, when you turn the key in the ignition, the starter turns, but the engine does not start. If the engine had a carburetor, then the situation with identifying breakdowns would be a little simpler. What is the situation with injection engines?

In an area where there are a sufficient number of auto repair shops and calling a tow truck is not a problem, solving the problem is not so difficult. But what if this is not possible? After all, there are times when you have to do everything yourself. In fact, many breakdowns that prevent the engine from starting can be fixed on your own.

Broken timing belt

Everything is simple here: visually see if there is a break. And even if a break is discovered, then there is no need to worry that the valves are bent, since VAZ engines have special recesses in the pistons for the valves. The following models are exceptions:

• 2112
• Priora
• Kalina

  If the timing belt has jumped a couple of teeth, the engine may no longer start because the ignition has gone wrong. In order to bring it back to life, it is necessary to set the timing according to the gas distribution marks.

  The valves are clamped - there is also a possibility that it is for this reason that starting the engine has become difficult and, over time, even impossible. In this case, it is necessary to adjust the thermal clearances of the valves.

  Weak compression is the case when difficult starting occurs every day, if the piston is already on the verge of complete decline. This occurs due to too much wear and tear on the piston group parts: rings, pistons and cylinders.

The sensor itself is very reliable, and there is nothing to break there. However, it can become clogged with a thick layer of dirt and stop functioning. The way out of the situation is simple: just wipe it. As a rule, it cannot become dirty immediately and the problem will manifest itself gradually: at first your VAZ does not start well, and after a month the car is no longer able to start.

Since a lot of dirt accumulates on this sensor, its contact with the wire simply rots. This is already a common problem, but it can be easily solved by manually restoring contact. The crankshaft sensor is located on the oil pump.

It is important to know! It is not permissible to make contact using twists. So you will lose it in a month, so it is best to solder the contact and cover it with lithol

Possible reasons why an injection engine does not start

Fuel system

It is necessary to diagnose the fuel supply system. In domestic fuel-injected cars, when the engine starts, you can hear a specific buzzing sound from the rear of the car. This sound indicates that the fuel pump is operating. Accordingly, if such a buzzing noise is not observed, most likely the problem lies in the pump.

You need to check the fuses that control the fuel pump, the main engine control relay and the fuel pump relay. In some cars of the VAZ family, fuses are hidden under the glove compartment, in others behind the heating panel cover on the passenger side. If the fuses are ok, check the relay.

You can touch it, and a specific click should sound. If the relay is also working properly, you need to check the pressure in the fuel system. The best way to do this is with a pressure gauge. If this is not possible, you will have to find a spool, which should be under a protective cap.

When you press it, you should feel pressure. Some models do not have a spool. Then you need to disconnect the fuel supply pipe. If the pump is working, then pressure should also be felt under your finger.

Possible causes may also be clogged fuel filters or fuel supply pipes. There may also be such a banal reason as lack of fuel in the tank.

If it turns out that all elements of the fuel system are in order, then the next thing you should pay attention to is the ignition system.

Ignition system

The main thing you need to be sure of is the presence of a good spark, that is, a discharge between the two contacts of the spark plug. If the starter turns, but the engine does not start, then there is a high probability of a malfunction in the ignition system. This is where we need our spark gap. If you check the spark plug without it, for example, by attaching it to the engine, then the resistance will be too high.

Therefore, we will not be able to accurately check our spark plugs and, in addition, the controller may be damaged. After checking the fuel system and ignition system and not finding the cause of the malfunction, you will need to check the engine. Most likely, this is the reason.

Starter malfunction

This can be a very common reason why the car engine does not start. In order to establish the possible cause of a starter failure, it is very good if the car enthusiast has at least an approximate understanding of the structure of this mechanism and how to check whether it is working.

It is important for owners of foreign cars to know that imported starters can stop turning even due to lack of lubrication or when dirty. In this case, the solution is very simple: remove the starter from the engine, thoroughly clean it from dirt and thoroughly lubricate the necessary mechanical components. Moreover, the used lubricant must be removed. In principle, this is not difficult, but if it doesn’t work out, then it’s better to contact a specialist.

Some starter malfunctions can be determined by ear. If you turn the key in the ignition switch, the starter makes a click, but it does not start, then most likely the relay is faulty. If possible, then you need to repair it. If the relay cannot be repaired, then it is worth replacing it. Only dismountable types of relays can be repaired.

Accumulator battery

The battery must be undamaged and the terminals clean and free of oxide, otherwise there will be no good contact between the battery and the vehicle's electrical wiring. The battery must have sufficient charge and “hold” it.

If the battery has been used for some time in undercharge mode, then there is a very high probability of deep discharge, in which it will no longer be able to recover.

Wiring

Corrosion may form on wiring elements or at connection points, which prevents the normal flow of current. All contact pairs must be clean and the connections insulated.

Injectors

Injectors in a car rarely fail all together and at the same time. Therefore, if there is a malfunction of one of the injectors, the engine will still be able to start and operate, albeit intermittently.

Crankshaft sensor

If this sensor is faulty, the engine will not be able to start. At the same time, the starter turns, but the engine still does not start. Failure of other sensors will not have such an impact that the engine will not start. To test the sensors, you should use a multimeter.

Along with high efficiency and relative reliability, fuel-injected cars have one unpleasant drawback - the difficulty of repair. It happens that the injector suddenly stops starting, and it becomes difficult to do anything with it. It’s good if you have the opportunity to call a tow truck or show the car to a professional, but what should those motorists do who are left with the problem alone? Let's figure it out by examining in detail all the reasons why the injector starts poorly or refuses to start at all, as well as how to “treat” such a malfunction.

Individual situations

If the VAZ 21099 injector stops starting, you can try to close the contacts of the mechanism in a straight line.

But sometimes there are emergency situations when the device stops functioning, let’s consider a few of them:

1. The injection engine does not start in cold weather, but all devices work normally, the battery is charged. If there is no click, you should first diagnose the safety components, electrical circuit, and also the solenoid relay. If the device clicks, the relay must be replaced.
2. all day, there was a spark, but in the evening the engine stopped starting. Before, you need to fully charge the battery, and then clean the contacts both on the battery and on the mechanism itself. If these steps did not help solve the problem, you need to check the battery itself more carefully - try closing the contacts with a wire, which may cause a spark to melt. If this does not help, try applying a positive charge from the battery directly to the relay. If there are no changes, the unit will have to be replaced.
3. If the car was operated normally all day, but after parking for five minutes it stopped starting, you can try to close the mechanism. You need to directly close two bolts on the relay; if this helps, but later the problem reappears, then disassemble the unit completely. Most likely, the problem lies directly in the erasing of the brushes. In this case, they will need to be changed.
4. The unit does not turn at all, but the car can be started from the pushrod. If the problem is not with the starter, then check the fuse box and ignition switch. But before this, you should check the wiring - the reason may lie in the oxidation of the contacts.

A starter, without it you can’t start the car, which means you won’t go far. The success of the trip depends on its performance. Therefore, you need to figure out how to prevent its failure, or fix an existing breakdown. Let's take a closer look:

• Alarm Signals
• Malfunctions

Possible faults

No matter how trivial it may sound, if the injector does not start, it means something has gone wrong. The success and speed of repair depends on how quickly and efficiently the problematic link in the car’s design can be identified. To better understand the essence of repair activities, it would be a good idea to pay attention to potential breakdowns. The basic list of the latter is as follows:

• Malfunctions of the injector itself. In the event of a breakdown of this kind, as a rule, the car does not start either cold or hot. On top of that, the injector indicator on the dashboard or on-board computer constantly lights up, signaling its malfunction. It is much less common for the engine to work when the indicator is on, but in this case the car starts poorly and is extremely unstable. It is worth noting that the injectors in the injector most often become clogged or the ECU burns out, so it is advisable to check these components first;
• Ignition system failures. Here the list of possible faults is quite large. Often the candles that suffer are simply flooded. In the event of such a breakdown, the car starts and immediately stalls, but in the long term it stops even “grasping.” Other components of the ignition system (coil, module, distributor, crankshaft sensor, etc.) are noticeably less likely to suffer;
• Incorrect operation of the fuel system. In this aspect, injection engines most often suffer on three fronts:
  Fuel filters are clogged (the car “picks up”, but does not start; if the engine starts, it is extremely unstable);
• The fuel pump is faulty (its characteristic operating sound is absent when you turn the ignition key, the injector itself simply does not start both cold and hot, the starter turns).
• There is insufficient pressure in the fuel system (the engine starts up reluctantly both cold and hot, but if it starts working, it functions unstable);
• Engine problems. Perhaps the widest range of possible malfunctions. Often the reason lies in weak compression or incorrectly adjusted valves. In any case, with a “motor” starting problem, high-quality engine diagnostics are required, otherwise it will be very difficult to determine the cause of the malfunction.

In addition to the breakdowns described above that can break the operation of the injector, the problem may lie in more trivial things. An example of this is a weak battery charge or lack of fuel in the tank. Considering just such incidents, before repairing a car, it is extremely important to exclude the possibility of their occurrence, so as not to waste extra time and nerves.

hard to start when hot 21093 injector

until the temperature drops to 50-60, it is unlikely that you will start it, I changed all the possible sensors, compression is from 9 and higher, the spark plugs are new, the starter turns like crazy, but turns stupidly and that’s it, sometimes it picks up, what could be the problem? gasoline in the injectors there is also...

The compression is already too low, it’s possible that the boost is being poured, the hot engine will evaporate without evaporating, resulting in fuel overflow

twenty-five again, try a different ignition module

I tried it, the whole point is this: I disconnect the chip from the coolant sensor (coolant sensor) and it starts! I was shocked, I replaced it with the same boyda but it’s better, I’ll look at the wiring...

O_o how? the fan should work normally

Well, I remove the chip, the valve works, it starts up normally!

In this case, go to the e-mail for diagnostics

gasoline is rubbish. This happens to me sometimes.

Good day everyone. With hope I turn to knowledgeable people. Six months ago I bought an injection 21099, and along with it I got myself a headache. On a cold engine(t

So I have the same canoe!

Good day everyone. With hope I turn to knowledgeable people. Six months ago I bought an injection 21099, and along with it I got myself a headache. On a cold engine(t

A friend had exactly the same nonsense as you on a V8. You remove the chip from the sensor, the car starts. He drove it like that until he sold it, and when he sold it, it stopped starting at all and there was a new buyer with no problems couldn't start it.

Good day! Perhaps off topic, but I had the same problem in two cars at once! first on 15k (after measuring the compression it turned out that it was the problem. It was: 6-3-9-12...no comments) On the second car 21093, 2002. had the same problem. managed to fix it today! I previously changed the fuel pump, filter, module... nothing helped! I checked the compression 12-11-12-11, I didn’t get around to measuring the pressure in the ramp! In the end it turned out to be simple! IT WAS ABOUT THE ELEMENTARY! The ignition marks have been knocked down! in my case, the former owner turned the crankshaft gear over. and the pin was inward! As a result, the damper pulley rotated and the crankshaft sensor did not work correctly... Perhaps this information will help someone

Good day, I had the same problem, also it would not start when hot. Before the fan worked, the car started but immediately stalled, I solved the problem by replacing the relay that turned on the computer and the fan relay. After the replacement everything worked as it should.

A few words and I'll add it! On the passenger side, under the shelf, there is a small block with three relays and three fuses. These three switches often work on and off. In this regard, their contacts quickly get dirty. Therefore, these relyushki need to be looked after. They need to be removed, disassembled and the contacts cleaned at least once a year (I do this once every six months). In the relay itself, the plate with the switching contact can be easily pulled out. The contacts have the shape of a hemisphere. If the shape of the sphere is damaged, then there is no point in cleaning it; change the relay. If the shape of the sphere is not damaged, clean the contact on the plate, as well as the other contact that sits rigidly in the relay body. In this case, you should never clean it with a file; it is not advisable to clean it even with No. 0 sandpaper. Use any non-smooth or synthetic material. Afterwards, rinse the contacts with alcohol or vodka, dry naturally or with clean meter, and reassemble. If you clean the contacts once, then you don’t have to go through the procedure of stripping the gear every time. It is enough to remove the cover of the relay, put a thin clean cloth moistened with vodka or alcohol on a thin screwdriver and wipe the contacts, then use the same, but dry piece of cloth. And you will never have problems like “it won’t start when hot”! One more thing (I’ve encountered this more than once). This block has three fuses: 30A and two 7.5A. So, it is in this block that a crack appears in the 7.5A fuses in the jumper between the contacts. The crack may or may not be noticeable to the eye, the device will show that the fuse is intact, but under load it may not work! Therefore, in my car, among other things, I have a set of fuses and at least a couple of relays.

Forgot to add! The problem when the car does not start when hot can often be in the temperature sensor, which is responsible for turning the fan on and off. It is really very easy to check whether this is true. The car will not start when the engine is hot. We climb under the hood and disconnect the wires (pull out the plug) from the temperature sensor. We start the car. The car won’t start right away; you’ll have to turn the starter for about three seconds. If the car starts, change the temperature sensor and be sure that it is factory-made.

The procedure for returning the car to “life”

Let's say you find yourself in circumstances where the injection engine starts poorly or refuses to do so at all. There is no need to hesitate in such a situation - it is advisable to immediately begin resuscitation procedures. If you don’t have time to figure out the exact reason why the car doesn’t start well, then you should quickly carry out the following algorithm of actions:

1. First of all, we check the availability of gasoline and battery charge. Is there something missing? Fill it up and light it up. Let's try to start. If there is no result, proceed to the next step;
2. Next, we quickly analyze under what circumstances the car malfunctions. If it takes a long time or is difficult to start when hot, we first check the spark plugs for overheating (light carbon deposits) and the functioning of the fuel system. Otherwise, when the car malfunctions both cold and hot, a more comprehensive approach is required. As a rule, the following procedures are sufficient: checking spark plugs, wiring the ignition system, assessing the operation of the injector and fuel system;
3. Note that most motorists manage to solve the problem, so to speak, with little loss, that is, by implementing the actions described above. If you are not one of the lucky ones and your car still takes a long time, starts poorly or refuses to work at all, you will have to act globally. Here it is better to take the car to a service station or a convenient garage and check the compression, timing adjustment, clean the injector, assess the condition of the fuel system and ignition devices. If there are any malfunctions, they must, of course, be eliminated.

In general, there are no particular difficulties in repairing a non-starting injector. The main thing in the process of such work is to act competently, in accordance with the procedure and possible vehicle malfunctions described above.

Mass air flow sensor - mass air flow sensor

This sensor can cause problems when starting the engine. This element does not like negative environmental influences - it fails quite often. When the engine does not start at all when hot or starting is difficult, then the first thing to do is check this unit.

Failure of the mass air flow sensor is also indicated by failures when pressing the gas, weak traction at certain moments. The power drops or, on the contrary, increases sharply. The starting process is very difficult - the engine choke. Explosions can be heard inside the exhaust system. Engine speed is unstable. The combustible mixture must be prepared with a special ratio of air and gasoline. This proportion is formed by the mass air flow sensor.

Prevention of injector breakdowns

Why the injection engine does not start and how to eliminate possible problems is now known to all readers of our resource. However, it is better to avoid such breakdowns, so let’s pay attention to ordinary procedures that, if carried out systematically, will help minimize the risks of all malfunctions. The simplest but most effective prevention consists of the following measures:

• Firstly, refuel exclusively at proven gas stations and only with high-quality fuel. Remember that most fuel system and engine malfunctions are caused by dirty gasoline;
• Secondly, change all consumables on time and only with high-quality products. The most important thing is periodic replacement of all kinds of filters and engine oil;
• Thirdly, periodically check the main components of the machine for stability. The list of the latter, naturally, includes the injector, elements of the fuel system, ignition and engine;
• Fourthly, never neglect routine diagnostics of your car at a service station. Surprisingly, even a delay of a couple of hundred kilometers can cause serious damage, which previously could have been eliminated with very simple actions;
• And fifth, always operate your vehicle properly. That is, you do not need to overheat, overload or negatively impact your car in any other way.

Perhaps this is where the most important information on today’s issue has come to an end. We hope the material presented above was useful and provided answers to your questions. Good luck in operating and maintaining your car!

The main relay of the VAZ 2110 does not turn on

Three reasons why the car's main relay does not turn on.

In this material we are talking about a car with an injection engine. Let's say the following happens: you turn on the ignition, as a result, electric current begins to flow to the controller output connected to it. At the same time, the main relay should turn on, after which power will begin to flow according to the electrical circuit to other objects consuming it. But the main relay does not turn on... The consequences of this malfunction are always noticeable. The engine simply won’t start in such a situation because there is no power supplied to either its injectors, the ignition system, or the relay that ensures the operation of the fuel pump, and so on.

Typically, for most modifications of VAZ cars, the main relay is located approximately in the same place where the fuses and relays for the radiator cooling fan and fuel pump are located, that is, in the cabin, on a shelf located on the right under the control panel, closer to the passenger seat. To find the main relay in a GAZ car, you will have to open the hood and look down at the front stack of the cabin opposite the passenger seat.

So, let's consider a situation in which you turned on the ignition, but did not hear the sound that accompanies the relay turning on. This means that the first thing you need to do is make sure that electric current is present at the contacts corresponding to this relay - Nos. 85 - 86. To do this, you need to use a test lamp that consumes no more than 0.25A, connected to the negative which should light up when the ignition is turned on. If, as a result of testing, you find that there is no light in the control lamp, this means that no electric current is supplied to the main relay.

The causes of the malfunction may be the following: Firstly, the contact between the main relay and its well is broken. Secondly, the integrity of the wiring in the area between the controller and the relay or between the “minus” and the motor housing is broken. If the wiring is in order, then look for the third reason. Thirdly, the controller failed. For GAZ cars, this is a very typical malfunction when, as a result of moisture or a break in the negative wire, the controller stops working. Now let's consider another situation in which you turned on the ignition and heard a characteristic sound that accompanies the activation of the relay, but this in fact does not happen. In this case, check for power supply at pins No. 30 and No. 87.

The causes of the malfunction may be the following: Firstly, if after testing with a test lamp, one terminal of which is connected to the minus, and the second touches connector No. 87, the light in the lamp does not light up, then the cause of the failure may be an outdated fuse or leaky wiring . Secondly, if the contact of the lamp terminal with connector No. 87 lights the light bulb, but with connector No. 30 it does not, then the cause of the malfunction is in the relay itself. Perhaps its contacts have already burned out and it needs to be replaced. In various modifications of the VAZ, the old relay can be replaced with any other one available on the mounting block, be it a turn signal relay or other light signals.

There is another reason why the main relay may not work when the ignition is turned on, but this has nothing to do with the breakdown. The point, in this case, lies in the connection diagram of the anti-theft system, which provides for blocking the electrical circuit in many situations that are suspicious, according to the security program installed. Perhaps there was a malfunction in the system, or perhaps during your absence, someone disturbed the system and it turned on the lock, so the main relay did not work.

2011-2016 - Information agency pokatim.ru - car news, car market news, car accessories, foreign and Russian cars, photos and videos of cars, car tuning. Reproduction of materials from the news agency’s website is permitted only with the condition of installing an active hyperlink to pokatim.ru