Replacing the Grant clutch cable. Step-by-step instruction

On the Lada Granta, the cable-driven clutch is a fairly reliable element. However, the drive itself wears out quite actively during the operation of the vehicle, resulting in:

• Grant's clutch cable stretches and breaks (the problem is solved by replacing the clutch cable);
• the Grant clutch is also adjusted (the required pedal travel and the moment of “grabbing” the clutch are set);

It is important to take into account a number of nuances both when removing the old cable and when installing and subsequently adjusting the new cable. Read more in our article.

Operations for removing the gearbox from a Lada Granta car

The gearbox is heavy and its shape does not have the correct contours, which is why it is best to carry out the work with at least two people.

1. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.

2. For ease of operation, remove the air filter.

4. Raise the car on a lift or hang its front part and place it on reliable supports (if you are working on an inspection ditch). For ease of operation, you can remove the front wheels.

6. If the gearbox is removed for repairs, drain the oil from it

7. Remove the four bolts securing the front clutch housing cover.

8. and remove the cover.

Read:

9. Disconnect the front suspension arms from the steering knuckles by unscrewing two bolts securing the ball joints to the knuckles on both sides of the car.

10. Leaning the mounting blade on the gearbox housing, press the left inner joints out of it.

11. and right-hand drive of the front wheels. Move the drives away from the transmission by moving the corresponding front suspension shock absorbers outward.

The movement of the shock absorber struts is prevented by the steering rods. To eliminate their influence, when disconnecting the right-hand drive from the gearbox, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and when disconnecting the left-hand drive, turn it to the right.

Disconnect the right drive only after removing the front cover of the clutch housing (see paragraphs 7 and 8), otherwise the mounting blade can bend the cover and the flywheel will touch it.

Do not disconnect both drives at the same time, as in this case the axle gears in the differential may move and it will be impossible to install the drives without disassembling the transmission . If it is necessary to disconnect both drives after disconnecting one of them, insert a technological plug or the old internal joint housing in its place and tie the plug or housing to the gearbox with wire so that they do not fall out when removing the box. After this, disconnect the second drive.

12. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors from the reverse light switch.

Grant gearbox cables

Removing the cable

at the cable gear selection
of the Grant gearbox
.

Removing manual transmission 2181 with cable drive

This video shows the process of removing the transmission

.

13. and from the speed sensor.

14. Unscrew the nuts of the two bolts securing the torque arm to the gearbox and remove the bolts.

15. and move the rod down along with the bracket,

16. Mark in any way the relative position of the transmission control rod and the shank of the gearshift rod hinge so that when reinstalling, maintain the drive adjustment.

17. Loosen the tightening of the nut of the clamp bolt securing the transmission control rod.

18. and disconnect the rod from the gear shift rod joint.

19. Disconnect the lower end of the clutch cable from the gearbox (see “Replacing and adjusting the Lada Granta clutch cable”).

20. Remove the rear bolt securing the ignition coil bracket.

21. Remove the two upper bolts securing the transmission to the engine, simultaneously securing the second support bracket. Bolt A (front in the direction of travel of the car) is short, bolt B is long. Move the throttle cable together with the bracket to the side.

Gearbox lever play on Priora, rocker. Causes

Initially, all Priors of the early years of production suffered from increased play on the gearshift lever and, as a result, slurred and uninformative shifting. A couple of years later, AvtoVAZ heeded the groans of the owners and replaced the initially defective universal joint with the same one from the Lada Kalina.

How much this helped is known to those who installed the Kalinovsky cardan on the Priora’s rocker with their own hands. It didn’t help, at least it didn’t radically solve the issue with the lever looseness. And it’s difficult to solve it, since the design of the backstage itself (even after restyling and modification) looks dubious.

What to change in the backstage if it doesn't work

The only option to somehow improve the situation is to carefully refine each connection in the backstage with your own hands, without allowing a single inaccuracy. To do this, we will have to buy a repair kit for repairing the scenes of either the Lada Grant or the Lada Kalina.

The difficulty is that the repair kit can be hidden under a whole bunch of catalog numbers. Here are some of them:

• 110-1703317 lining of the reverse locking bracket;
• 2170-1703219 gear lever axis;
• 2190-1703086 spring;
• 2110-1703198-01 retaining ring;
• 2170-1703371 support washer, 2 pcs;
• 21100-1703041 ball support;
• 2170-1703226 spacer bushings, 2 pcs.

Catalog numbers are given for the case when the repair kit is not on sale. The price of a repair kit is about 7-9 dollars, depending on the manufacturer and the greed of the seller.

Procedure for removing/installing an automatic transmission on a Lada Grant

Required materials and tools:

• a set of car keys;
• heads, ratchet;
• rags;
• extension cord, additional lighting;
• screwdrivers with different tips;
• pliers, side cutters;
• hydraulic stop / telescopic stand;
• metal brush;
• new gear oil;
• hydraulic jack / any other lifting mechanism;
• graphite-based lubricant;
• rubber / silicone hose for draining waste;
• wooden stops;
• gloves.

Description of transmission

Below we will consider the most important indicators that affect the operation of the car:

• the gear ratio for the VAZ 21807 shows figures of 3.94, for the French analogue this figure is slightly lower - 3.87;
• with this transmission, the Lada Vesta accelerates to one hundred in 10.2 seconds, which is a second faster than the JH3 - 11.2;
• the maximum speed for the VAZ 21807 is 188 km/h, for the JH3 the figure is 178;
• The fuel consumption of Lada Vesta with a domestic gearbox is 7.5 liters, the French gearbox consumes 7 liters.

Manual transmission
The most important thing the engineers worked on was modifying the transmission tooth profile. They took an example from European models, where the noise of the gearbox should merge during downshifts with the roar of the engine

Lada Vesta designers applied new developments, improving the entire system and adjusting its balance.

Catalog numbers and a list of all necessary parts

Catalog numbers of bearings, their cost

*prices are current as of November 26, 2018.

Before replacing an automatic transmission, always confirm the catalog numbers with service station specialists.

Automatic transmission hums when accelerating

Sometimes the car makes unpleasant sounds when starting to move. Perhaps it's the automatic transmission whining. It starts making noise when shifting into third gear or at a speed of 60 km/h. With further acceleration, the unpleasant noise intensifies. After reaching a certain speed (80-90 km/h), the sound from under the hood subsides. If you stop pressing on the gas, the sound will no longer appear, but further acceleration will provoke its appearance again.

Replacing the rear gearbox can solve this problem. It is also worth inspecting the rear brake discs. You need to check the back side (where the brake cylinder is located). Rusty deposits may accumulate on the discs. If their width is more than 1 centimeter and they are over the entire surface, this may cause extraneous noise. The problem is solved by cleaning the inside of the disks.

Procedure for removing a manual transmission

Required materials and tools:

• set of car keys, sockets, ratchet;
• rags;
• additional lighting;
• jack;
• graphite lubricant;
• plastic container for draining waste;
• transmission oil.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing a manual transmission

1. We install the machine within the perimeter of the repair area: on an inspection hole, on a road overpass.
2. We remove the terminals from the battery, preventing a short circuit in the circuit.

1. We dismantle the air filter and the plastic air filter housing.

1. We unscrew the fastening nuts, remove the power terminals, and dismantle the starter.

1. We unscrew the mudguards and the oil pan protection (if any).

1. Remove the block with wires from the reverse activation sensor.

1. Disconnect the contacts from the speed sensor.

1. We twist the drain plug and drain the waste from the manual transmission.

1. Disconnect the clutch cable, lever fork, and bracket from the gearbox housing.

How to eliminate the howling of a VAZ box

The first thing you can do is contact the service center and request that the noise be eliminated as part of the warranty repair. This process is long, painstaking, requires patience and does not always end in victory. In most cases, the manufacturer claims that the sound during transmission operation is normal and the vehicle is not subject to warranty repair. But if the sound is very loud or the buyer is very persistent, the manufacturer suggests replacing the box. But, judging by the reviews of drivers who managed to replace the manual transmission under warranty, this does not always solve the problem. The fact is that a howling box is a manufacturing feature, not a defect, so whether it’s worth replacing it with exactly the same one is up to you to decide.

Modification of the clutch cable

Sometimes the noise is due to vibration transfer between the fork and the clutch cable. This problem can be solved with a simple modification that does not require financial investment. You need to remove the clutch cable from the fork, replace the standard rubber insert with a washer made of softer rubber, which dampens vibration well. The element is glued to a plastic part, which serves as a stop for the cable.

This method does not help everyone and will not allow you to achieve ideal silence, but it makes the unpleasant sound much quieter. In any case, it won't hurt to try to implement this simple modification.

Interior noise insulation

Another option is good sound insulation of the cabin. Of course, the howl of the box in this case will not go away, but it will be less audible. This event is expensive, but it will make the car more comfortable. If the performance of the transmission is not in doubt, and only noise is annoying, you can use this option.

Do I need to add oil?

It is difficult to check the oil level in a cable-driven box; this model does not have a dipstick. The only way to do this is to unscrew the oil filler plug. If at the same time the oil begins to flow out slowly, then the level is normal; if not, it is better to top it up. In this case, it is imperative to use exactly the same technical fluid as already poured in the box.

To add oil to the maximum level, you need to jack up the car from the side where the oil filler neck is located and add oil until it begins to flow out. For convenience, it is better to use a syringe. As soon as the liquid flows out, the plug must be quickly tightened. If you do not raise the correct side of the car, the transmission fluid level will be low.

In some cases, this procedure helps get rid of the howling or makes the box a little quieter. Some motorists noted that they had to add about 0.5 liters of oil to the manual transmission. But in most cases, the procedure does not eliminate the howling problem.

Does oil quality affect transmission noise?

At the factory, manual transmission 2181 is filled with budget oil of dubious quality. Many people prefer to replace it immediately. This not only makes the transmission quieter, but also extends its life. Does changing the oil eliminate the noise? In some cases, this procedure can improve the situation somewhat, but it is not a panacea. In most cases the box continues to howl.

Catalog numbers, bearing names

Replacing an automatic transmission with a manual transmission and vice versa: how justified is it?

The question is ambiguous, since each owner must start from his goals. When it comes to aggressive driving style, drifting, etc., you can’t find a better mechanic.

If you are a supporter of a smooth ride, medium speeds, and fuel economy, then an automatic is the best choice. Although, if you have the skills, you can drive it on the automatic type.

The final choice is up to the owner of the technical device.

Will disassembling the manual transmission help eliminate the howling?

Most Lada car owners, having tried the methods listed above, calm down, manage to get used to the noise and continue driving their car. But some are ready to go all the way, so they decide to disassemble the box themselves or contact a service center for this service. Is it possible to achieve the desired result using this complex procedure?

Sometimes when opening the box, significant defects in individual gears are revealed. In this case, the transmission usually makes a loud noise when engaging a particular gear. There may also be problems with the clutch and release bearing. Sometimes replacing these parts solves the problem.

New Lada: Everything about the Lada Granta fuse box: where it is, location, diagram and decoding

In most cases, installing new parts does not make the gearbox quiet, because all gears are made on the same equipment, which, as already mentioned, does not allow for an ideal configuration.

The procedure for removing and disassembling the gearbox is lengthy and expensive, but may not yield results, so it is hardly worth going through the gearbox if howling is the only problem.

Reviews

Conclusion The design of a standard transmission is quite complex, regardless of whether it is manual or automatic. In case of repairs and preventive maintenance, prepare thoroughly and study the methodological recommendations.

When it comes to major transmission repairs, use the services of service station professionals. At a special diagnostic stand, technicians conduct tests and calibrate the operation of the box. Upon completion, they provide a quality guarantee for the block of work performed.

About the uniqueness of the cable unit for Granta

Replacing the rods and rockers with a cable system in the Lada Granta was intended to reduce the impact of vibration. At first, the developers were inclined to build a hydraulic circuit for the switching unit, similar to many foreign cars. Such a decision would have caused an additional increase in cost, affecting the price of the car, so the manufacturer chose a path that would take into account the financial capabilities of a wide range of buyers. The final increase in the cost of the car due to the use of a progressive cable unit reaches 5 thousand rubles. This is quite acceptable, since the price increase is insignificant, and the transmission unit is reliable.

Note that the cable gearbox has acquired more durable forks enclosed in the shift mechanism. Previously, the manufacturer used steel parts coated with bronze. Over time, abrasion of the protective layer was observed, leading to the penetration of dust into the unit with a subsequent harmful effect on the properties of the oil.

New analog forks are endowed with increased strength and have reduced weight. Aluminum is used as the material for their manufacture. An additional measure was the use of plastic linings to protect the forks from premature wear.

Also, the manufacturer of the Lada Granta mercilessly replaced the outdated lockers and springs present in the design of the switching unit. Now the main component here is the plate, which allows you to quickly “sort out” the steps. A latch moves along the surface of this element, which conveys the “intentions” of the owner to the unit (activation of the desired gear).

The cable gearbox allowed the LADA Granta gearbox to become an attribute of comfortable control of the vehicle's driving modes. Discomfort will be guaranteed to be absent due to the leveling of vibrations.

Perhaps the future promises LADA Granta the installation of a hydraulic shift mechanism, but in the present, such a solution as a cable gearbox allows you to get maximum comfort at minimal cost. The functionality of the updated box has made it possible to sufficiently get rid of annoying problems that bring frustration and discomfort to LADA Granta owners. The differential has undergone virtually no changes (with the exception of synchronizers, as already noted). This made it possible to minimize the increase in the cost of a car with such a transmission.

The cable gearbox is very simple not only to operate, but also if repairs are necessary. This is confirmed by a separately removable switching unit, a reduced volume of lubricant and its less frequent need for replacement (after 200 thousand km or a five-year interval).

Source

If you have a mechanic

Gears shift poorly in a car with a manual transmission for three reasons. The first of these is a malfunction of the clutch when it does not completely disengage (drive). The first sign of this malfunction is that the reverse gear is engaged with a characteristic crash. The rear one reacts to this anomaly more noticeably than other gears, because it is the only one not equipped with a synchronizer.

The second reason is a defect in the gear selection mechanism of the gearbox. And finally, the third is excessive wear of the gearbox synchronizers.

There are also several clutch malfunctions in which manual transmission gears shift poorly:

• Air in the clutch release hydraulic drive or fluid leakage from it. The malfunction is eliminated by replacing failed components of the hydraulic system and pumping it.
• Worn or broken clutch release fork. The part requires replacement or repair.
• Warping (runout greater than 0.5 mm) or too thick new driven disk.
• Failure of the basket (temperature deformation of the pressure plate or its distortion).
• Loss of mobility of the support bearing of the gearbox input shaft (at the end of the crankshaft to which the flywheel is attached).
• Jamming of the clutch driven disc hub on the splines of the gearbox input shaft. To eliminate the defect, clean the splines of the gearbox hub and input shaft. It wouldn’t hurt to lubricate them a little with lithol.
• There is too much free play in the clutch release fork. Its value needs to be clarified with the manufacturer, since it is slightly different for different cars. Until you find out the value of this parameter for your car, set it from 5 to 8 mm. Too little free play of the fork is also undesirable, as it leads to clutch slipping and increased wear of the release bearing.

Excessive wear of synchronizers mainly occurs in those gears that are engaged more often: these are usually first, second and third. The rear one is not included in this list because it does not have a synchronizer. When your gear shifts poorly, and you assume that the reason for this is wear of the synchronizers, firstly, you should only have difficulties with this while driving. Secondly, in this case it switches better if you use double squeeze.

For those who don’t know what double squeeze is. To shift to a higher gear: depress the clutch, engage neutral, release and depress the clutch again, engage the gear.

Backlash in the so-called “helicopter” is one of the reasons for unclear gear shifting

To switch to a lower gear: double squeezing must be combined with re-engaging, that is, when the clutch pedal is released and the gearbox is in neutral, you need to press and release the accelerator pedal. This is how gears are changed in cars that do not have synchronizers. If the gearbox shifts easier using double squeezing, then the culprit for poor gear shifting is most likely worn synchronizers.

Look for damage or check that it is adjusted correctly. Don't even think about the clutch and synchronizers.

How to eliminate the howling of a VAZ box

The first thing you can do is contact the service center and request that the noise be eliminated as part of the warranty repair. This process is long, painstaking, requires patience and does not always end in victory. In most cases, the manufacturer claims that the sound during transmission operation is normal and the vehicle is not subject to warranty repair. But if the sound is very loud or the buyer is very persistent, the manufacturer suggests replacing the box. But, judging by the reviews of drivers who managed to replace the manual transmission under warranty, this does not always solve the problem. The fact is that a howling box is a manufacturing feature, not a defect, so whether it’s worth replacing it with exactly the same one is up to you to decide.

Modification of the clutch cable

Sometimes the noise is due to vibration transfer between the fork and the clutch cable. This problem can be solved with a simple modification that does not require financial investment. You need to remove the clutch cable from the fork, replace the standard rubber insert with a washer made of softer rubber, which dampens vibration well. The element is glued to a plastic part, which serves as a stop for the cable.

This method does not help everyone and will not allow you to achieve ideal silence, but it makes the unpleasant sound much quieter. In any case, it won't hurt to try to implement this simple modification.

Interior noise insulation

Another option is good sound insulation of the cabin. Of course, the howl of the box in this case will not go away, but it will be less audible. This event is expensive, but it will make the car more comfortable. If the performance of the transmission is not in doubt, and only noise is annoying, you can use this option.

Do I need to add oil?

It is difficult to check the oil level in a cable-driven box; this model does not have a dipstick. The only way to do this is to unscrew the oil filler plug. If at the same time the oil begins to flow out slowly, then the level is normal; if not, it is better to top it up. In this case, it is imperative to use exactly the same technical fluid as already poured in the box.

To add oil to the maximum level, you need to jack up the car from the side where the oil filler neck is located and add oil until it begins to flow out. For convenience, it is better to use a syringe. As soon as the liquid flows out, the plug must be quickly tightened. If you do not raise the correct side of the car, the transmission fluid level will be low.

In some cases, this procedure helps get rid of the howling or makes the box a little quieter. Some motorists noted that they had to add about 0.5 liters of oil to the manual transmission. But in most cases, the procedure does not eliminate the howling problem.

Does oil quality affect transmission noise?

At the factory, manual transmission 2181 is filled with budget oil of dubious quality. Many people prefer to replace it immediately. This not only makes the transmission quieter, but also extends its life. Does changing the oil eliminate the noise? In some cases, this procedure can improve the situation somewhat, but it is not a panacea. In most cases the box continues to howl.

Do I need to add oil?

It is difficult to check the oil level in a cable-driven box; this model does not have a dipstick. The only way to do this is to unscrew the oil filler plug. If at the same time the oil begins to flow out slowly, then the level is normal; if not, it is better to top it up. In this case, it is imperative to use exactly the same technical fluid as already poured in the box.

To add oil to the maximum level, you need to jack up the car from the side where the oil filler neck is located and add oil until it begins to flow out. For convenience, it is better to use a syringe. As soon as the liquid flows out, the plug must be quickly tightened. If you do not raise the correct side of the car, the transmission fluid level will be low.

In some cases, this procedure helps get rid of the howling or makes the box a little quieter. Some motorists noted that they had to add about 0.5 liters of oil to the manual transmission. But in most cases, the procedure does not eliminate the howling problem.

Oil additives: is it possible to do without repairs?

If changing the oil does not help, the gearbox howls, then it is necessary to repair the unit. Many people can talk about adding additives, but this does not help in 80 percent of cases. According to reviews from many motorists, adding additives can only temporarily or not completely muffle the sound, but will not completely solve the problem.

Chemically active substances contained in revitalizant additives form a cermet layer on the surface of worn gears and bearings, which, according to the manufacturer, restores the geometry of the parts and compensates for wear. Of course, if the howl of the gearbox is barely noticeable, it has just begun, then adding, for example, Hado, may well delay the problem with repairing the gearbox. But it may not help if the problem is already old and the wear on the unit components is significant. Then repairs are definitely needed.

Replacement

Despite the simplicity of this operation, replacing the cables of the Kalina 2 gearbox must proceed strictly according to plan. Any violation not only complicates the process, but also often leads to unpleasant consequences. If you don't put the car on the handbrake or don't support the wheels, it can run over your leg and injure your foot.

If you do not disconnect the battery, careless movement of any metal object may cause a short circuit and damage the wiring or some electrical components. Let's look at how to remove the Kalina transmission cables and then install new parts in their place

Preparation

On the Lada Kalina, replacing gearbox cables begins with choosing a location for this operation. You need a flat, well-lit area without drafts (yard or garage). You will need cables (AvtoVAZ article number (OEM) 219011703113, price 2.5–5.5 thousand rubles per set) and the following tools:

• key to 10;
• Phillips and flat screwdrivers;
• puller (open-end wrench size 13, the arms of which are ground with a cone to a thickness of 0.5–1 mm).

Having chosen a site, put the car on the handbrake. If for some reason it does not work, support the rear wheels with wheel chocks or bricks. Otherwise, on Kalina 2, replacing the gearbox cables can lead to serious troubles.

Removal

Replacing Kalina gearbox cables begins with removing these parts. You will have to perform a number of works under the hood and inside the car in very inconvenient places. Therefore, you will need an assistant with dexterous hands who is not afraid of dirty work.

Replacing cables for the Lada Kalina gearbox

Actions under the hood

After placing the machine on the site and opening the hood, proceed as follows:

1. Disconnect both terminals of the battery using a 10 mm wrench, then remove it and place it next to the car.
2. Disconnect the air filter pipe from the engine by loosening the clamp using a Phillips screwdriver.
3. Remove the air filter housing (there is no need to disassemble it as when replacing the filter element). To do this, use your fingers to release its fastenings from their seats on the body.
4. Use a puller to pry up the cable tips so that they come off their pins. If you don’t have a puller, you can do this with a flat-head screwdriver or even your fingers.
5. Pull the cable clamps out of their seats.

After disconnecting the drive elements from the pedals, pull them out through the engine compartment.

Activities in the salon

To ensure that the Lada Kalina 2 gearbox cables are removed normally, do the following in the cabin:

• Remove the handbrake pad, the cover covering the gear selector (plastic tunnel or console with cup holders) and the side ventilation panels next to the tunnel. All you need is a Phillips screwdriver.
• If you cannot remove the console, unscrew the bolts securing the handbrake lever, then move it to the side.
• Unclip the ends of both cables, then remove the clips holding them from their seats.

All that remains is to remove the plastic clip that secures both parts to the car body.

Installation

Replacing Lada Kalina gearbox cables is not only the removal of old ones, but also the installation of new parts, but in the reverse order. Consider a few important points:

• To ensure proper orientation of each cable, insert them with the arrow on the rubber seal facing up.
• If you can’t get them into the cabin, disconnect the oxygen sensor wire (lambda probe), and reconnect after installing new elements.
• If even the removed wire does not help, then hang up the left front side of the car, then support it with a safety stop and push the parts into the interior from under the car.

Having inserted the cables into the interior, perform the same steps as during dismantling, but in reverse order.

Finalization

Purpose: install a gasket between the clutch cable and the gearbox fork

Procedure:

1. Remove the clutch cable end from the fork.
2. Unscrew the cable end, having previously measured the length of the free threads.
3. Remove the clutch cable boot.
4. Remove the rubber insert from the cable stop (photo No. 1).
5. Instead, install a round washer made of porous rubber (diameter 32-35 mm, hole 12-13 mm) (photo 2).

1. Cut a piece of rubber measuring 20x70 mm, 2.5-3 mm thick.
2. Glue it (for example, with “Moment” glue) to the plastic cable stop (one turn), secure with electrical tape 1.5 turns.

1. Insert the cable into the bracket on the gearbox and put on the boot.
2. Screw on the tip, leaving a couple of millimeters less free threads on the stud (since the new gasket is thicker than the factory part).
3. Place a 2 mm foam rubber spacer between the cable tip and the fork lever.
4. Adjust the clutch pedal.

As a result: the effect was noticeable immediately. Now the rattling can only be heard with the windows open. After modifying the clutch cable fastening, the car drove more than 15 thousand km, the gearbox noise was within normal limits. Increased vibrations and noise are noticed only at a temperature of -20 o C, when the rubber gaskets become hard. The author has posted sound files (engine acceleration-braking mode at 1500-2000 rpm in 3rd gear), which shows what the noise was from the gearbox before and after modification. Site users can download the file:

To download files you need to log in to the site To download files you need to log in to the site

On foreign cars, increased clutch cable vibrations are dealt with using a special weight (Renault Logan cable). You can repeat the foreign experience in a garage, for example, wrap a bitumen ball around the cable sheath (taken from a vibration damper).

Let us remind you that owners of Lada Granta, Kalina and Priora cars also encounter clicks in the clutch pedal.