Crickets and noises in the cabin Samar 2109-2114
Good evening everyone.
Due to the fact that my previous post about body sores of the Samara family caused a good stir and received the most views in my blog, I decided to continue sharing my experience and observations of everyone’s favorite AvtoVAZ. This time I’ll tell you a little about the common crickets, noises and knocks in the cabin of any hatchback of the Samara family.
1. Trunk lid.
In my opinion, it is the trunk lid that most irritates the owner of the chisel, with its creaking, knocking, clanging, etc. What is the reason for the trunk rattling? Most likely it is a bad trunk lock and an unstable body. I defeated the trunk lyada very easily (in my opinion). I screwed thick pieces of rubber along the edges of the lid, thereby securing the lyada from rattling on bumps and when turning. When the trunk is closed, the gap between the body and the rubber is 1-2mm. I also placed two washers (2mm thick) and a piece of a bicycle tube in the middle under the counterpart of the trunk, after which the trunk began to close a little more difficult, but securely and tightly. Of course, you could do what many do - install a lock against viburnum, grants, etc. But I’m a student :) and my finances are only enough for gasoline) Well, the best way to get rid of the trunk sound in the cabin is to install a body strut (namely the body, not the glasses!) and install a viburnum lock. This method works well, I tested it personally with a friend in 2114.
2. Back of the rear seat.
Probably almost
EVERYONE
has a creaking rear seat back.
The Internet is full of ways to combat this problem. Some people put a boot on the steering tip, others cut off the mushrooms themselves (pins) on which the back is fastened. Someone remakes these fasteners and replaces them with a bolt or puts a bottle cap on them. EVERYTHING IS PASSED!
Guys, there is one
100%
effective method on how to remove squeaking. It's ridiculously simple. You just need to wrap the elastic band, which is located under the back lock. I covered it with 2 layers of thin self-adhesive carpet and put it in place. The back has become very difficult to fasten, sometimes not even the first time, but when you fasten it, it will shut up forever.
3. Trunk plastic.
Many people have wooden sides together with a wooden shelf, but not me) I don’t have a rear shelf at all (I feel sorry for buying it, but I want a standard one) and the sides of this shelf just creak terribly even on the slightest bumps. I solved this problem easily. I used the same self-adhesive carpet to glue both side panels around the entire perimeter, where they adjoin the body, other plastic and window rubber bands. I did the same with the rest of the trunk plastic. I pasted everything over, screwed it tighter and now there is silence)) In my opinion, the plastic creaked against the rubber of the trunk and the rubber of the glass (at least on my cars it was like that).
4. Door trims.
Not many people have cladding that creaks, but still. Only the driver's front trim creaked, and something was knocking in the passenger front trim. For a long time I could not understand what was knocking, until I realized that the “stud” for opening/closing the door was hanging on the bumps. I unscrewed it and glued some carpet along its entire length. I did the same with the rest of the carnations. It was more difficult with the skins. To prevent them from creaking, I glued an anti-creaking agent (bought at a car store) to the door, where the skins meet. I screwed the skins themselves onto self-tapping screws, because... I have 3mm felt inside the door and a regular piston simply doesn’t hold.
5. Torpedo
The high panel rattles absolutely everyone
!
When I drove my 09 for the first time, I got the feeling that it was not bolted on anywhere at all (as it turned out later, it was so). The panel creaks everywhere it can. Many people simply install a torpedo from 2114, some install it from Opel. Although, in my opinion, both panels still need to be glued and make noise. On my 082, I bolted the dashboard directly to the body, with huge bolts straight into the engine compartment. I took long bolts (10cm), placed wide washers (3-4cm) under them and, having drilled through the panel and body, screwed the panel into place. Before that, I covered it all with STP and carefully covered all the edges, corners, and individual elements along the entire contour with carpet. Just like many others, I had many vents, many fastenings, etc. broken off. In some places I screwed it directly with self-tapping screws, in some places I used construction ties to tighten the panel elements together. For example, this is exactly how I fixed the heater damper regulator. The ears on it were broken off and I had to improvise)
Source
Occurrence of a problem
The new-fashioned body design of many VAZ models was the beginning of problems. In many cars, owners notice unpleasant noises and pops from the rear of the body. These loud noises occur when the car goes over bumps and the trunk door begins to knock. Most likely, this defect resulted from the fact that the car was tested in conditions suitable for travel - on a flat road surface. Under ideal conditions, it is difficult to notice that the locking plate or stem is not in the correct position. In addition, the gap usually appears only after driving on poor-quality surfaces due to vibration that occurs at the joints.
Another reason is wear of the closing mechanism. Because of this problem, the trunk of the VAZ 2114 opens while driving. The same situation occurs in other models. This happens because the locking tooth of the lock is either broken or almost completely worn out. It would seem that what’s wrong with this, because you can go and change the lock for a new one. But the problem will remain unless the approach to it is changed. The main locking mechanism must be replaced with a different type of device.
Also, the reasons that the trunk opens spontaneously while the car is moving may be the breakdown of silumin parts or wear of the seal.
In any case, the mechanism will have to be changed, but to what?
Replacement options
The first option is banal to the point of impossibility - buy a similar lock. Moreover, you will need to buy the entire lock, and not a separate part, because the design of the mechanism is non-separable. Replacement is carried out when the old lock is completely dismantled. This solution should be considered temporary, since the production technology is the same and the problems will remain. Over time, a new lock will have to be replaced. The only positive side of this solution is that it is quite cheap.
The second option involves completely replacing the mechanical lock with an electrically controlled drive. What does this give?
Installing such a system is not the cheapest pleasure, but the final result will really please the user. The electronic drive is much more convenient to use and is a reliable replacement for its mechanical counterpart.
Which system is better?
To sum up, which engineering solution is better for opening, closing and fixing the lid or tailgate is difficult to answer unequivocally. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. This may be a biased opinion, but gas shock absorbers undoubtedly performed the best. The mere fact that the old units, having served their time on Nivas produced in the 70s and 80s and being transferred to cars of later releases, continue to successfully perform their functions, gives a chance to think.
Use of reliable gas shock absorbers
Is it worth it to rush to use new technologies if the old ones are more reliable? However, as follows from the description above about Renault Logan, there are exceptions to the rules. In the meantime, engineers are looking for new ways to solve technical problems, numerous “Kulibins” are applying them in practice through trial and error, experimenting with components and assemblies of their cars, creating homemade test benches from them.
Torsion bars, yes, the standard rubber wears out over time.
The castle has its own ambush. It is attached to the lid in such a way that two thin layers of metal are pressed together with a void between them. Over time, all this equipment becomes loose (the metal bends). Even if a lift helps, it doesn't last long.
Shvi on the lid will reduce noise. adjustment and pulling will remove the noise. but how, what and how much to answer to whom - I will decide myself, without outside prompts. Am I making myself clear?
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Dismantling the old castle
Before replacing, you will have to dismantle the old closing mechanism, and this is not so easy.
The VAZ 2114 model will be taken as an example.
The following tools will be useful in your work:
The replacement sequence is as follows:
If you prefer the economical option of replacing it with a new mechanical lock, then install it in the reverse order as described.
Additional modernization of locks
If you dream of your car doors opening and closing as smoothly as in foreign cars, try installing silent locks. Such a device can be installed on any model of Zhiguli. For representatives of the retro era, such modernization is also possible, but the locks themselves will have to be filed a little. By the way, you can also put it on the trunk. In general, there is no limit to perfection.
And the installation is, in truth, very simple and transparent. It is enough to dismantle the old locks, try not to drop the necessary elements inside the door, or remove the trim in advance. And then install new analogues on two bolts. There are situations when, after installation, the door does not close tightly or warps slightly, causing cracks to form. Solving the problem is also very simple by adjusting the location of the device. In general, initially try to secure it exactly where the old one was.
Drive installation
Adjusting the position of the trunk lid is possible if, instead of a mechanical lock, you install an electronic device, in this case a drive. To install it you will need:
We install the drive in the prepared place, according to the instructions. Next, you will have to make several amendments to the design:
The VAZ trunk is opened by pressing a button that can be installed in the cabin.
The electronic device is adjusted according to the included instructions. All other nuances that should be taken into account when installing the device in VAZ models have been indicated.
Everyone knows the problem of clanking, noise and metallic knocking of the rear door on the VAZ 2108, 2109, 2113, 2114 when driving, it’s all about the lock of the fifth door of the VAZ family, the most economical option for dealing with the trunk lock of the VAZ 2114, without any modifications is to wrap it with electrical tape the part that I have is covered with rubber from a bicycle inner tube, and there is no need to cut anything down! But the duct tape won’t last long and you’ll have to constantly re-roll it. Therefore, it was decided to look for an alternative to duct tape, and a camera from a bicycle caught my eye. For ease of installation of the bike camera itself (a car camera won’t work, it’s too thick), or rather a piece from it, I had to cut off the excess , namely what is highlighted in red, put on a piece of our wonderful sound-absorbing rubber and voila, yes, you need to screw everything back, and then, voila, our trunk lid doesn’t rattle) we rejoice, but again not for long, since there is some some other cricket living in a car. At the moment, 270 thousand of the distance traveled and silence from the luggage compartment.
All the best! beaver everyone
I’ll add to the review that heat shrink for wires has long been available; anyone who wishes can use it instead of a bicycle tube.
A second, but no less important role is played by rubber bumpers, or door buffers. We simply unscrew the buffer until the doors, when closed, are aligned with the line of the car body. We also check the condition of the door seal. If everything is done correctly, the knocking and noise should disappear.
Often a door noise occurs when a pin that prevents the door from moving horizontally breaks off. Over time, the retainer bushing wears out, which is not repairable, and since the retainer bar costs around 60 rubles, there is no need to bother, we just change it completely.
If you did everything according to the instructions and the knocking still persists, then I’m afraid to upset you, but your lock and latch are critically worn. An example of a completely worn lock is visible in the photo below.
In this situation, there is only one way out - replacing the lock. Be careful, beware of fakes, the price of a quality product should not be lower than 600 rubles, since a good lock is made of hardened metal and covered with chrome. Counterfeits are easy to recognize by their inconspicuous appearance, poor processing and often lack of packaging. In particular, good locks for VAZs are produced by the DAAZ company, and they look like this:
After repair or replacement, I recommend securing all fastening points with additional nuts, or placing them on a thread locker.
Source
Replacing the cover yourself
To remove the trunk door you will need:
- knob;
- set of socket heads;
- slotted screwdriver;
- set of open-end wrenches.
Replacement procedure
The replacement of the VAZ 2114 trunk lid itself is carried out in the following order:
- Open the tailgate and secure it with a suitable size prop.
- Using a flat-head screwdriver, pry the mounting location of the upper hinge of the gas-filled stop, press it inside the trunk and disconnect it.
Removing the upper trunk mount of a VAZ 2114
Using a flat-head screwdriver, pry up the lower fastening of the gas-filled stop and also disconnect it.
Removing the gas stop
In a similar way, remove the second gas stop. Unscrew the fasteners and remove the brackets used to secure the stops.
Unscrew the brackets
Check the condition and straightness of the stops themselves - if they are bent or deformed, then you should purchase new ones and install them during reassembly. Using a slotted screwdriver or a special puller, pry and remove the 10 pins securing the tailgate trim. Remove the trim.
Removing the casing
Disconnect all terminals and wire connectors connected to the trunk door.
Disconnect the terminals
Remove the wiring harnesses from the cover.
Removing the wires
Remove the trunk lining fasteners. Unscrew the fastening elements of the lock and remove the lock. Using a puller or a flat-head screwdriver, pry and remove several pistons securing the rear edge of the interior headliner. Bend the detached edge of the casing so that it does not interfere with further dismantling of the cover. In the opened technological cavity, find the nut securing the terminal and unscrew it (it is best to use a socket wrench or a socket with an extension). Remove the terminal.
Remove the terminal
On each side of the upper rear part of the cabin, find and unscrew a pair of fastening nuts holding the trunk hinges.
Unscrew the trunk lid hinges
Remove the trunk lid.
After the trunk door is removed, you should carefully inspect the condition of its hinges - if they or their fastening elements are skewed or have cracks, then they should be replaced.
It is produced as follows:
- Remove the gaskets from both hinges.
Removing the hinge pads
Using a socket wrench or a socket with an extension, unscrew the pair of mounting bolts holding the hinges in the door.
Unscrew the hinge mounting bolts
Remove the hinges and the gaskets installed under them.
Dismantling the hinges with gaskets
Install new gaskets and hinges, then secure them.
Reassembly and installation of the tailgate is carried out in exactly the same order as disassembly, but in reverse order.
“Crickets” in our 14th...Treatment...
Here I want to try to convey to people (explain) the expression of people - “She’s all strumming, ringing, etc.”...
And with everyone's help we will try to cure this.
I’ll tell you about myself and my car (what it was initially):
1) GRINDING-CREAKING IN THE STEERING COLUMN!
Initially there was a grinding-creaking sound (with an iron sound), as it seemed to me, somewhere in the area of the steering column. It was like he was in the “afterword” after the bumps. It was as if something was in limbo and a sound appeared after a bump while the car was rocking! As it turned out, these were metal brake pipes; they were rubbing against the hoses and clamps on them. We fight by bending the tubes from the hoses and, subsequently, wrapping these tubes in something, for example, in electrical tape (you can wrap paralon). Eliminated!
2) BOTTOM OF FRONT DOORS!
Something began to jingle plastically at the bottom of the front doors. Especially when it's cold. Initially the driver's, then the passenger's. These are original small plastic pockets with holes for door acoustics. The clips they have are so terrible and have a huge backlash. We fight by installing podium pockets on self-tapping screws, or simply placing the original pockets on self-tapping screws from the inside of the casing. Eliminated!
3) “TORPEDO” JOINTS!
in the cold, in winter, when the plastic was completely cold, there was an unpleasant crackling sound from the vibration of the engine (plastic. As it turned out, these were the joints of the sheathing panels. We fight by gluing the joints, either simply with paralon on glue (budgetary and not aesthetically pleasing), or with bitoplast / madeline (paralon adhesive based, impregnated) Eliminated!
4) REAR SEAT BACK!
traditionally, over time (literally a couple of months), a squeaking sound appears “from the rear” :)… There are two options - either a latch on the sides of the back of the rear seat; or the bolts securing the backrest in its lower part become loose. In the first case, we fight like this - we put a thick piece of paralon on this clamp (pin). There was a case when a man put the boot from the steering tips on the pin (it just fit). I wrapped a thinner piece of foam around the pin and secured it with electrical tape. Maybe a collective farm
