How to dry the car interior under the mats from water

The appearance of water in a car is an unpleasant thing. Especially when it hits the carpet. You need to quickly decide how to dry the car interior under the mats. If you don’t do this, then the consequences are inevitable: puddles under your feet, the smell of mold, foggy windows... And that’s not the worst thing. But a rusty body and damaged wires are much more serious.

Drying the car interior is an important undertaking that cannot be put on the back burner. The methods of struggle depend on the scale. Some of them are easy to implement without special training, but some situations require contacting a car service.

Lada Priora Station Wagon SQ › Logbook › [Solved] Leaking under the passenger mat

Detecting the Problem

I was cleaning up the car, removing the floor mats, and discovered that the front passenger floor mat was wet on the bottom. I washed the rug, waited for the carpet to dry (

15 hours), began to monitor the humidity. After the next rain it got wet again.

Finding a solution

I took off the glove compartment, pulled back the carpet, everything was wet there. I broke the clips and removed the threshold (it turns out that you need to unscrew it and move it to the side so that the hinges come off the clips).

I know that the typical leak location (in the upper right corner in relation to the passenger's feet) is securely sealed with sealant, and there is little information on the Internet about what else may be leaking (I have not yet registered with drive2). Someone said that there were holes in the floor with low-quality rubber plugs, but even rolling through puddles, so much water would not have leaked into them. Let's go look!

The moisture appeared after rain, which means you need to imitate rain. I took a 1.5 liter bottle, poured boiling water so that I could feel where the water was flowing and evenly poured it over the grille between the hood and the windshield. After a while I saw where the water was flowing from in a thin, almost imperceptible stream.

Seal from the inside is not an option. Water can accumulate and, sooner or later, flood everything in the cabin. Many scary thoughts appeared: stove? air conditioner? Do I need to disassemble everything? Hopelessness forced me to try everything, just not to remove the stove: I took the sprayer, turned it to direct jet mode, poured hot water and began to pour water purposefully on different areas under the hood. After a while I discovered that if you pour water on the connection (photo below), the water begins to flow into the cabin.

Thanks to the moisture, the gap through which water flows became visible to the naked eye. When everything around dries out, the area with the gap remains moist.

I bought the simplest white sealant and automotive degreaser, washed everything around the crack, degreased it, and carefully spread the sealant. The next day I took the sprayer again and poured water on that place in jet mode - the interior was dry.

Solution

1. Remove the carpet in the damp area. Release the metal so that you can see where the water is flowing from2. Using a water sprayer in jet mode, spray different places on the wall between the hood and the passenger seat on the hood side. See if there is a leak inside the cabin3. When the hood wall dries, look at which places take the longest to dry, and examine them for cracks4. If you find a gap, wash everything around it, treat it with a degreaser, cover it with sealant (preferably matching the color of the car), and let it dry according to the instructions for the sealant. I usually leave it to dry longer just in case5. After the sealant has dried, pour plenty of water over the sealed area again6. If there is not a drop in the interior, dry the interior using newspapers and collect

Inventory, consumables

— Screwdriver— Sealant (

160r)— Rubber spatula (15r)— Spray head with jet mode (I had it in stock, in the store about 25r)— 1.5 liter bottle (simple, from under water for 20r)— Newspapers

Replacing and connecting the stove

Installing a new heater radiator is done in the reverse order. When installing rubber hoses, it is recommended to treat them with sealant. When connecting electrical connectors, use the markings applied during disassembly.

After assembly, coolant is poured into the system. To prevent an air lock from forming, remove the hose from the throttle assembly after loosening the clamp. Antifreeze should be poured into the expansion tank slowly, observing the disconnected hose. As soon as coolant flows out of it, the hose should be put back on the fitting and tighten the clamp. If everything is done correctly, the operation of the stove will not cause any complaints.

When installing a new heater radiator, it is recommended to pre-treat the pipes with sealant

Lada Priora sedan › Logbook › Water got into the cabin. Consequences and solutions.

An unpleasant situation with water getting into the interior of a Priora happens to every second Priora driver, so this situation did not bypass me. I noticed this problem when I lifted the front passenger's rubber mat, it turned out to be wet on the bottom side. Pressing my finger on the carpet, I saw that it was wet. I removed the plastic door sill trim, lifted the carpet, the factory sound insulation was wet. Started drying. I dried it with a conventional heater, squeezing water out of the factory Shumka. A wet carpet with noise is half the trouble, there was also this problem:

It was decided to urgently eliminate the rust and water leaks. I bought epoxy primer, a rust deactivator “Tsinkar”, an attachment for a drill and a grinder. (I only used the attachment for a drill, it turned out to be a waste of money). I cleaned the problem area from rust, then treated it with zincar (I did 3 treatments).

After the zinc has dried, wipe the treated area with a soft cloth to remove any remaining product. Then I coated it with several layers of epoxy primer. After the primer had dried, I applied several layers of paint. Ultimately, the result of the work carried out is as follows:

Well, water flowed through the door and got inside the door at the glass seal near the mirror. I removed the door trim, instead of the factory black film, cut a new film over the entire door, removed the inner glass seal and pressed the new film with it. I tucked the film inside the door and made cuts in the film in the places where the window lifter was installed. I've been driving for 2 months now, it's dry))))) When it rains, water now flows along the film to the bottom of the door as it should and flows out of the drainage holes, as intended by the factory))). Who has the same problem, make a new film, and everything will be ok)))

initial stage

Before applying any selected drying, you should try to remove the maximum amount of water from the interior. For this:

We remove the rugs (at the same time you can check whether they have become moldy and wash them);
Raise the carpet and lay several layers of toilet paper underneath it. The option with newspapers is cheaper (they put a lot of spam out the window), but less effective - such paper absorbs worse. The feminine pads used by some originals are more effective, but they will hit your pocket hard. You can fill the space with hygienic litter for a cat litter box - it absorbs perfectly, but then you will be bothered to pick it out from under the upholstery. Those whose carpet is firmly fixed can take such a step only after serious dismantling, which not everyone will decide to do. If you skip it, further actions will take more time;
The carpet is laid in place and covered with the same toilet paper, as thick a layer as possible;
Next, the resulting “pie” must be carefully trampled, squeezing out the water. Several approaches may be needed. Our goal is to remove as much water as possible from the floor. The carpet and the top of the bottom will still remain wet, but drying them in the future will be easier, since a certain amount of water will not need to evaporate.

Harm from dry cleaning

Often, after wet cleaning of the interior, an increased amount of water remains in it, which must be removed before it penetrates into the seals and heat-sound-insulating layers. You should use thick towels and plenty of napkins to remove all unnecessary condensation. The lining of the internal parts should be thoroughly squeezed and wiped with towels. Armchairs and other interior parts need to be squeezed vigorously and any water that comes out must be collected. You can use heavy tool boxes as a press. As a last resort, you can sit on a wet chair and collect the water protruding from the sides.

Some small and hard-to-reach interior items can be freed from water using a hairdryer and devices powered by a cigarette lighter. We direct a targeted flow of warm air from the devices and evaporate the moisture accumulated there.

To speed up the process of drying the car interior, you can use a vacuum cleaner. By turning it to maximum, it will effectively draw water, for example, from rugs or seats. Of course, you cannot achieve a perfectly dry surface using this method, but you can significantly reduce the level of water contained in the products.

Is it worth changing the oil and antifreeze?

If both fluids have changed color and consistency, they must be replaced. This is the only way to completely remove water from the engine. But don’t rush to fill in good liquid right away.

It is important to flush the system thoroughly. These can be specialized cleaning fluids (so-called

“five minutes”), or cheap oil and antifreeze. The latter option is more gentle and is suitable for cars with a complex internal combustion engine. After filling the liquid, turn on the engine for 15-20 minutes, keeping it at different speeds. Afterwards, the flushing oil and antifreeze can be drained. Moisture will be completely removed from the system.

What to do if there is little moisture

Of course, it is better to prevent the appearance of moisture in the car interior than to deal with it later

Motorists who pay attention to car care to avoid unpleasant consequences are no less concerned about maintaining dryness than replacing consumables

In summer, you can easily provide conditions for quickly removing moisture; to do this, simply open the windows or doors so that warm air flows circulate well. If the car is equipped with a climate control system, then in any bad weather you can organize a suitable microclimate in the cabin. The “Window Defrosting” option will help get rid of excess humidity. Of course, you should not only brush snow off your clothes and shoes when getting into the car, but also use the right mats so that moisture doesn’t have a chance in the first place. In winter, you should not use textile car mats; rubber ones are better for this period, since they are easy to remove water from. By leaving your car in a heated garage with good ventilation, you don’t have to worry about the accumulation of moisture in the cabin. Drying will not be difficult even in winter if the room is well ventilated, since the water evaporating from the heat will not settle as condensation. So, if you leave the windows or car doors open in such a garage, the problem will be solved spontaneously.

It is not always possible to provide ideal conditions for car maintenance, and this is where many car owners are faced with the accumulation of moisture in the interior, subsequently wondering how to dry the car interior under the mats. A little moisture is not as big a problem as serious wetting of the upholstery and flooring, which requires special efforts to eliminate. First of all, you should get rid of the main water by blotting the accumulation areas with any of the moisture-absorbing materials, for which dry rags, newspapers, disposable towels, diapers and other similar things that are not difficult to find are suitable. Car mats should be removed, washed and dried thoroughly. Those who have already dried rugs in winter know firsthand that the process takes much more time than in the warm season, so it is necessary to provide appropriate conditions for drying; in the cold it will not be possible to complete the task properly. Next, the carpet is raised, and most of the moisture is removed from it and the bottom using absorbent agents to facilitate subsequent, more thorough drying. Rugs or carpeting that have contained antifreeze or other chemicals require careful removal of the composition from the surface.

Motorists often use silica gel or ordinary salt to dry the interior under the mats. When choosing this option, you should not forget about the subsequent cleaning of granules and particles, for which you will need a powerful vacuum cleaner. In addition, toilet paper is often used, which also absorbs moisture well, for which it is laid out on a wet surface and changed as it gets wet. If the car is not so critically wet and there are no puddles under the rugs, drying it will not take much time and effort. In dry weather in the summer, the simplest solution is to remove the car mats and leave the car with the windows and doors open in the sun. In a few hours the problem will be resolved without your further participation. In winter, warmth and ventilation should be provided. An effective option is to use a heat gun or hair dryer

You should act carefully so as not to get burned or cause a fire. The stove and air conditioner, used in tandem with each other, will also cope with the task adequately

Having turned on the heater to blow the feet and the air conditioner to recirculate, the car doors should be closed. When the interior heats up, the water will begin to evaporate, and the vapors will not settle due to air ventilation.

Ammonium nitrate

It's also ammonium nitrate. This popular mineral fertilizer can be found in the bins of any summer resident. It is better to combine with table salt. Proportions – 2 to 3.

Prepare plastic containers with a volume of 2-3 liters. To do this, cut a five-liter bottle in half (heightwise) and lay it on its side. Fill with the mixture and place on the floor of the cabin near the “epicenter”.

Change the composition every 24 hours. And to be sure, combine it with thermal ventilation.

Cat litter, silica gel or regular rice

This is the fastest and easiest way to dry your car floor. Silica gel is a dried gel consisting of solutions of silicic acids. It comes in the form of granules that absorb liquid and vapor (not just water vapor). It is used to make litter for pets, because it easily absorbs various odors.

If you don't have silica gel, take cereal.

Procedure:

Remove rubber car mats.
Sprinkle granules or cereal onto the upholstery.
After 10-12 hours, remove with a brush or vacuum cleaner.

It won't help with puddles under carpets. But it will cope with the remaining moisture in the cabin with a bang. This way you can dry the carpet in the car without removing it. To maintain constant moisture, place pellets or cereal in cotton bags and place under the seats.

Water in the trunk of a Priora

If earlier climatic conditions were more stable, now the weather never ceases to “delight” us with its changes. Either the heat is unbearable, or the rain does not stop for weeks, which often leads to various floods. The rains are so long and heavy that city streets turn into seething streams.

And real rivers become so overflowing due to heavy rainfall that they overflow their banks, flooding everything in their path. Not only people suffer, but also their property. Quite often, such rains affect cars; water can be unexpectedly found both inside the car and in its trunk.

Russian cars are not highly sealed, so dust, dirt, and water in the trunk of a Priora are a fairly common occurrence. There may be several reasons for this.

— The gap between the trunk and the lid exceeds the permissible standards. This may be due to the cover being displaced or deformed. By eliminating this gap, you will achieve a sealed trunk.

If the cover is displaced, then simply adjust its position through special holes. If deformation occurs, straightening will be required. The result of your actions should be a reduction in the gap and a smooth, unhindered lifting of the luggage compartment.

— The rubber seal on the lid is cracked and unusable. In this case, simply remove it and install a new one.

If water is still found in the trunk of the Priora sedan, then first of all you need to immediately remove the mat and dry it thoroughly, and then find and eliminate the cause of its appearance. In a Priora hatchback, water may be observed in the trunk due to leaky built-in ventilation under the lights. This reason can be eliminated by securing the plastic rectangles with sealant.

If the problem was not limited to a simple puddle in the trunk, and contact with water was closer and longer, then the result may be disappointing. Often the car is simply scrapped, but if the car was partially submerged in water and the water was more or less clean and fresh, then you can try to save it.

You should not try to start the engine until all contaminants are completely removed and the car is dry, as this can only worsen the situation.

First, determine where the water was able to reach. If there is water in the trunk and interior of the Priora, then proceed to drying and cleaning as quickly as possible so that the parts do not become deformed from high humidity and mold and mildew do not develop. For faster results, remove all floor mats and, if necessary, remove seats.

The biggest problems will come from contact of water with electronics. It is very sensitive to moisture, even a small amount of water can cause irreparable damage. Most will have to be completely replaced, but even this does not guarantee that after some time the problem with the electrical system will not arise again.

Why the stove does not work or does not heat the air

If the stove fails, it either does not work at all, or it works but does not heat the air. In the first case, first check the fan wiring, starting with fuse F7. If the fuse is blown, replace it. Then they check the relay, which may not turn on the first time or only when the engine is warm. In this case, the relay is replaced with a new one.

Then the serviceability of the electric motor is assessed. To do this, power is directly supplied to its contacts from the battery. If the electric motor starts to operate at maximum speed, then it is in good condition. Otherwise, it will need to be repaired or replaced.

The intensity of the air flow is adjusted using a resistor having two spirals with resistances of 0.82 Ohm and 0.23 Ohm. In the first mode, the current flows through both spirals, in the second - only through a spiral with a resistance of 0.23 Ohms, in the third - bypassing the spirals, that is, without resistance at all. If the resistor is faulty, the fan will only operate in the third mode at maximum speed (handle in the extreme right position). The problem is solved by replacing the resistor, which is located on the driver's side above the accelerator pedal.

If the resistor is faulty, the heater fan will only be able to operate at maximum speed.

If cold air enters the cabin, this may be due to:

Airlock. It could have formed when replacing the coolant, when the system was depressurized, or because there was insufficient amount of coolant in the system. To remove the plug, remove the heater radiator pipe, use a watering can to add antifreeze to the maximum and put the hose back in place. After starting the engine, coolant under pressure will displace the remaining air from the system.
Stove tap jammed. This happens if the tap was not initially opened all the way, and during operation, oxide and scale formed on the inner surface, preventing the normal circulation of the liquid. You can try to open the tap using pliers or immediately replace it with a new one.
The stove radiator is clogged. When using low-quality coolant, the radiator honeycombs may become clogged. The problem is solved by flushing or replacing the heat exchanger. The feasibility of washing is determined by the scale of contamination.
Installation of a low-quality radiator. In a defective product, the honeycomb may be incorrectly soldered. The radiator should be replaced.
Low pressure in the cooling system. If heat transfer increases at higher speeds, the pump needs to be replaced.
Low coolant level. It is necessary to check the level and add antifreeze if necessary.
Damage to the heater fan impeller. The impeller is carefully inspected and replaced if mechanical damage is detected.
Cabin filter dirty. If it is heavily polluted, the power of the electric motor will not be enough to pump warm air into the cabin. The filter is replaced with a new one.
Damage to the cylinder head gasket. If the cylinder head gasket is blown, white smoke will come out of the exhaust pipe. The problem is solved by replacing the gasket and dismantling the cylinder head.

If the stove is clogged, warm air will stop flowing into the cabin.

Relationship between weather outside and water inside the car

During the wet season, water constantly gets into the car interior along with shoes and clothes. After some time, the water flows onto the floor of the car and begins to slowly evaporate. At the same time, a layer of condensation and an unpleasant odor form on the glass.

To speed up the process of water evaporation in this case, you will need to turn on the heating devices to maximum when getting into the car. They must be kept in this state for several minutes, and sometimes for about an hour. Heating devices include anything that will emit an increased amount of heat, and this includes, in addition to the stove, various heated windows and seats. To increase drying efficiency, you should wipe the glass with a dry cloth after a while.

To minimize damage from condensation in wet weather, it is worth limiting the flow of air from the street through ventilation devices.

It is worth noting that a bag of special salt can effectively combat moisture introduced with clothing. By placing such an item in the cabin, it will begin to intensively absorb excess condensation. However, you should not forget about it, and after some time it will need to be replaced or dried on a warm radiator.

A folk remedy for dealing with water from shoes is:

laying out newspapers,
towels,
installation of special rubber mats on the car floor.

They significantly reduce the content of condensation in the cabin by absorbing water. However, you should remember to periodically throw wet objects out of the car. It is best to do this in a warm garage, since if you go out into the cold, the water will quickly freeze and the paper will most likely stick firmly to the carpets.

Reasons for decreased performance

Despite the simplicity of the design, problems with the VAZ-2114 stove often arise. They are mainly associated with a drop in the performance of the heating system - the stove heats the air poorly, blows cold or slightly warm air. In this case, the reasons for poor operation of the stove can be both general (warming up is weak at any control unit settings) and when operating in a certain mode, for example, at idle. Or, for example, cold air or slightly warm air blows only on the side windows, and in other modes the heating works normally.

Common reasons why the stove stops heating:

the heater radiator is clogged or an air lock has formed in it;
when switched to heating mode, the heater damper does not fit tightly to the body, which is why part of the air flow moves bypassing the radiator and enters the cabin cold;
the tap does not open completely - this is one of the main reasons for a poorly heating stove;
the formation of cracks at the joints of the housing and air ducts, which causes strong dispersion of the air flow.

It is not difficult to determine the cause of a general decrease in the efficiency of the heating system. To find out why the VAZ-2114 stove does not heat well, you need to remove the side decorative panels from the center console, and then warm up the engine and turn on the stove at maximum power. After this, we try the antifreeze supply pipe to the heater radiator up to the tap and behind it. The same heating temperature of the tube on both sides indicates that the tap is working properly and the problem lies in the radiator. If after the tap the pipe is less warmed up, the tap is jammed or does not open completely.

After this, we determine the temperature at the inlet and outlet pipes of the radiator. If the heat exchanger is not clogged and there is no plug in it, then the temperature of the outlet pipe will be lower than the inlet pipe. But if the outlet tube is cold, antifreeze does not circulate through the radiator, which indicates the formation of an air lock (airing) or clogging.

A common cause of failure of the VAZ-2114 stove is wear and play in the sliders. Because of this, even when they are moved to their extreme positions, the cables do not bring the valve and dampers to the stop (the valve remains closed, and the dampers do not block the air flow channels). This problem can be easily resolved - you need to make an adjustment and shorten the cables a little.

The problem of insufficient heating of one of the zones is associated with a violation of the damper control. This happens due to the same wear on the sliders, the cable jumping off the damper levers, the damper axes jumping out of the seats in the body, which is accompanied by clicks.

In addition to weak warming up, VAZ-2114 car owners are faced with the fact that the intensity of air flow decreases. This happens due to the dispersion of air through the cracks at the junction of the body and air ducts, clogging the latter with debris - many owners do not install cabin filters, so leaves get into the air ducts and interfere with air movement.

Where does water get into the car interior, how to remove this water and dry the carpets

The harsh weather of our latitudes inevitably leads to water entering the car interior. In winter, snow constantly gets into the cabin, in spring and autumn water, and in the off-season, completely incomprehensible slurry.

Water can enter the cabin for the following reasons:

Together with the passengers,
Through gaps and poor quality rubber seals,
Remain after wet cleaning of the car interior
By electrical wiring
Poorly angled windshield
Poor waterproofing of door trim
Poor alarm installation

Due to the large amount of condensation in the car interior, the windows begin to sweat, puddles form underfoot, and an unpleasant musty smell is felt. However, these unpleasant moments are minor compared to the intense processes of corrosion of the car body. Some unpleasant “wet” situations in the cabin can be eliminated at home, but solving others will require qualified help from specialists.

Many car users, during bad weather, and as a result, increased condensation into the interior, are advised to leave the car in a warm garage with the doors open and the rugs pulled out as often as possible. This simple measure will significantly remove water from your car. However, not all car owners have the opportunity to put their iron horse in a warm place.

Thus, in the article we will present the most common causes of water accumulation in the cabin, as well as measures to solve this hated problem.

Heater fuse and reasons for its failure

Often the cause of malfunction of most components and systems of a car is a blown fuse. The stove is no exception. Failure of a 30A heating system fuse causes the fan motor to stop and air to stop flowing into the cabin. In this case, find an element marked F7 in the fuse block and replace it. The new fuse should also be rated 30A. If the fan does not work after this, the problem should be looked for elsewhere.

Heater fuse F7 is located in the mounting block under the hood on the driver's side

It is often difficult to determine that it is the fuse that has blown. It can fail due to a short circuit in the electrical wiring, a malfunction of the electric motor, severe clogging of the cabin filter and in a number of other situations. The difficulty lies in the fact that fuse F7 is simultaneously included in the rear window heating electrical circuit and is responsible for the cigarette lighter, glove compartment lighting and headlight washer motor. If it fails, all these components will not work.

Let's dive in

It also happens that the car is seriously filled with water, for example, overcoming deep puddles or ponds, a significant amount of water spilled in the cabin itself, and all sorts of other extreme situations.

In this case, serious disassembly of the interior of the car is required, since the initially accumulated water must be drained, and then the entire sound insulation, which is very reluctant to part with condensate, must be dried.

To drain water, cars have special drain holes, which, as a rule, are located under the feet of all passengers. Their more specific location can be found in the instruction manual.

When disassembling the interior, you should carefully lay out the removed products so that during assembly no questions arise: what is this?

Thus, even after a severe flooding of the car, you can avoid the formation of mold, and as a result, an unpleasant odor inside the car.

Why is antifreeze leaking from the stove?

A coolant leak in the heating system can occur from:

stove radiator;
stove tap;
stove pipes.

If a coolant leak occurs from the radiator, it is usually replaced with a new one. Repairs to restore tightness are usually complex and labor-intensive. In addition, if the radiator has been in use for a long time, its tubes become clogged with deposits and dirt, and, as a result, heat transfer decreases.

The valve opens and closes the coolant supply to the radiator, thereby regulating the heat in the cabin. Over time, it may begin to leak, as evidenced by the characteristic smell of antifreeze in the cabin, a puddle on the floor on the passenger side and a decrease in the coolant level in the expansion tank. The faucet cannot be repaired and in such cases is replaced entirely.

If the heater radiator starts to leak, it is usually replaced with a new one.

The cause of coolant leakage from the pipes is usually their wear - the rubber ages and cracks over time. When diagnosing a problem, you need to wipe the suspected leak areas with a rag and observe the outlet and inlet pipes on a warm engine. Worn hoses are always replaced with new ones.

Water under the driver's mat of the Priora

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Write:

Recently, drivers of Priora, and already Kalina (VAZ 1118), have begun to deal with the problem of water penetrating into the cabin, which collects under the driver's seat mat. This problem is not caused by a large defect in the velvet lock. Namely, the velvet lock on the driver's rear view mirror (outside the car) is not fastened. At the factory, the velvet lock was not fully installed on the door and water penetrates through the door trim onto the door seal, where it then collects in large quantities under the mat. This problem can be corrected very easily - use a rubber hammer to drive the velvet lock into place.

Hello everyone! In general, my struggle with water in the cabin has been going on for a long time and every time I find new places!
1st Wet floor - Cause:
The lack of curtains in the doors caused it to flow through the clips through the door.
— Solution:
I cut out “curtains” from polycarbonate and put them in place - it helped!
2nd Wet floor - Cause:
The plugs on the bottom, apparently a little tired and began to leak a lot
- Solution:
All the plugs were sealed
3rd Wet floor - Cause:
The clutch cable was leaking through a torn boot
- Solution:
I covered the plug with silicone sealant And so I thought I had won this a sad problem, because I’m just tired of blowing up the interior every time.
But!
Recently, I discovered that there was a ton of water under the rug again, and I dismantled the interior again; the floor insulation was no longer feasible to dry; it was rotten and went to waste.
A friend suggested that such a problem was caused by the front arch plug

supposedly water gets in there and flows through the seams, I took it apart and looked, in fact they were barely holding on and there was dirt inside the cavity, I washed it, bought new plugs, put them on sealant + covered them with several layers of mastic on top!

I decided not to collect the floor yet, it will probably come out somewhere else... The current state of the roads, one might even say rivers, not roads, helped me! I took a ride and looked and found leaks again in the same place! I don’t know what this part is called correctly, either the front arch or some kind of arch cavity. In general, you can see it in the photo! Now the actual question!
Where can water get into this cavity if the hole is tightly sealed?
Or is it flowing from the top where the frill is? Because You are not logged in. To come in.

Because you are not a trusted user (phone number is not verified). Enter and confirm your phone number. Read more about trusts.

Because The topic is archived.

Cleaning and flushing the radiator of the VAZ 2114/15 stove

You can increase the efficiency of the stove by cleaning and flushing the radiator. The procedure can be performed without dismantling the radiator or with dismantling it. In the first case, you will need to remove the outlet and inlet pipes from the heater and pour a cleaning solution into it. Citric acid, plumbing cleaners (for example, “Mole”), etc. are used as such a solution. Then the radiator is washed with running water and coolant is added. You can clean the radiator better by removing it from the car. This will allow you to wash it not only from the inside, but also from the outside, removing dirt between the honeycombs. Washing is usually carried out with running water.

If after performing these procedures the stove does not work better, the radiator must be replaced.

Video: flushing the stove radiator

Thus, diagnosing a malfunction and determining the cause of poor heating of the VAZ 2114/15 interior with your own hands is quite simple. Self-repair and replacement of individual elements of the heating system are also not very difficult. It is enough just to strictly follow the recommendations of specialists.

Didn't find the information you are looking for? on our forum.

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Tags: water on the mat, Priora, through the trim

Comments 38

I actually got it from a weld seam, there is a blog entry, I was tired of looking for a leak, I didn’t even expect this.

Water penetrates through the velvet panels, enters through the technological holes onto the door trim and along it into the interior. I had the same problem, it was solved by soundproofing the doors.

maybe the holes at the bottom of the door are clogged

No, everything is fine there, the water flows down the casing

For me, this problem was solved only by installing additional seals. When I removed the sheathed oilcloths for the first time, they were all in place and well glued, and there was a puddle on the right front carpet.

Additional ones that fit on the bottom of the door?

Inter-door Chinese, d-shaped in different sizes in the openings. Another goal was to remove unnecessary noise.

Water gets on the glass, drips onto the trim, and onto it from the interior. This happened today. All due to the fact that there is no factory cellophane in the door.

Yes, the fact of the matter is that I’ve already glued everything in place) I’ll disassemble the door, and I’ll ask my brother to pour water on top)

Change the rubber seals on the doors and at the top of the roof

Water gets in through the door, it’s unlikely that the seals are to blame

Then, as they wrote, take apart the casings, and let someone pour water, and you look))) that’s the only way you’ll find out

What the hell is this with cellophane? Out of 4 of my cars, only one has these films; before this, not a single car had them, and nothing stuck (both classics, and Nine and Ten)

on the classic and on the nine, the doors have a slightly different shape, but here the door is convex. On the 099, I also have no maple and everything is fine, the rain doesn’t get in.

2110 was also without film

on the classic and on the nine, the doors have a slightly different shape, but here the door is convex. On the 099, I also have no maple and everything is fine, the rain doesn’t get in.

Well, on 10 it didn’t work for me, and there was no film

Well, I think there’s also a different door seal, it’s cut. And on the Prior it is solid.

Well, it’s different for everyone, even on exactly the same cars, for example, for me, nothing leaks through the valve vent at the back, everything in the drain is not sealed, who is he struggling with this again?

AviaTor-KU is absolutely right 100% I also had a lot of trouble from these oilcloths. I glued it properly and forgot about it for several years.

Yes, I also glued it a week ago, but the problem did not go away. It looks like we need to take it apart again and look, maybe there is an obvious leak somewhere.

tucked inside the pockets? if they just weigh it vertically on the outside, it won’t do any good

That's the thing, it seems like I did everything right ((

Then you were advised correctly here, remove the trim and pour water on the roof so that it runs along the doors and you will see where it is oozing from

Yes, I also glued it a week ago, but the problem did not go away. It looks like we need to take it apart again and look, maybe there is an obvious leak somewhere.

That year, when the interior floor was noisy, I also noticed that water was getting through the rear door seal onto the mat. I cured it by removing the entire seal and reinstalling it, while properly pressing the seal to the rear edge of the door opening - the problem disappeared

How to fix the situation yourself

In half of the cases, repairs are possible with your own hands. This should be done if:

the drainage channel is clogged;
crack in the seal;
The rubber seal has come off due to poor quality or old sealant.

How to eliminate a leak if the drainage channel is clogged - use a toothpick or thin wire to clear the gap, rotating the device, as if clearing a sewer pipe.

If the reason is a loose seal, then it’s easy to seal the leak with sealant:

Wipe the elastic band where the glue layer has come off with alcohol.

Use a spatula to pry off the seal.
Coat the gap with sealant.
Press firmly.
Remove excess glue from the glass.

If you need to replace a worn rubber band, you cannot do without dismantling it. You will need suction cups to remove the glass, or a qualified assistant:

Use a knife or thin string to cut through the sealant and pull out the glass.
Clean the opening, wash and degrease the shield before re-gluing.
Apply sealant.
Install the transparent part.
Dry and check for leaks.

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First of all, you should check all the plugs on the bottom, then the cabin filter, also known as the stove filter, water can also get through it. If everything is in order there, then there are two more options, the first is through the gap between the glass and the seal (often found) or the place where the wiring enters the interior. The last option happens most often, for example, one of these cases:

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Even more useful tips in a convenient format

Step-by-step draining of coolant from the engine block

You can drain the liquid from the engine block yourself without a pit, performing this process in stages:

The container for antifreeze or antifreeze must be installed exactly under the block.
Find the drain plug on the cylinder block and carefully unscrew it. Finding the drain plug is quite simple; this element is located under the car ignition module.
We wait about 15-20 minutes for the coolant to drain completely, and then screw the plug into its original place.
Experts recommend thoroughly wiping all drain holes with a clean rag to remove all kinds of dirt.

Why does a car windshield leak and how to deal with it?

The owners of the UAZ Patriot are the first to encounter windshield leaks - on domestic SUVs it leaks from the interior. The low quality of parts and consumables in tandem with many technological reasons forces the happy owners of a domestic SUV to deal with the problem after the first rain. However, from time to time the same worries fall on the shoulders of the owners of any car, sometimes of a completely different status and price. There are several reasons for this, but we will start with the simplest ones.

Natural wear of the seal

Over time, seals and sealants dry out and begin to leak water. This will happen in no less than 7-10 years, so the happy driver who drove for so long with the original windshield should thank the manufacturer for the high quality of the glass and installation. And only then begin to resolve the issue: first, you need to evaluate the glass itself. If it is already worn out, chipped by stones and sand and does not allow good flow, it’s time to fork out for a replacement. Poor forward vision will have very serious and costly consequences.

If the “visor” still works, then you should find the leak and fix it. To do this, you will need to remove the molding, which is equipped with most windows on modern cars, clean and degrease the “pain point” and generously treat with sealant, removing excess glue after drying.

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