Shoots at the carburetor: the main causes of the malfunction, what to do, problem solving, repair

Causes of “shots”, “pops” and flashes in the carburetor

1. High voltage cables are not connected correctly. In this case, the spark will not occur during compression, but on other strokes, since the sequence of operation of the engine cylinders is not followed. It happens that the engine appears periodically. In this case, the solution to the problem is to reinstall the wires from the spark plugs into the distributor cover. You need to start from the installation mark counterclockwise in the following order: 1-3-4-2.
2. Late ignition. Late ignition is when the spark jumps too late on the compression stroke, and combustion of the working mixture occurs throughout the entire power stroke, and not during compression. When the intake valves open, the fuel mixture is still burning and ignites a new portion.
3. Faulty ignition distributor. This problem can lead to problems with the operation of the motor in all modes. It also happens that “shooting” is provoked by weak fastening of the holder. Here it is important to understand the cause of the problem in time, and also replace the distributor with a new and working one.
4. The problem is in the ignition system switch. In this case, you just need to replace the switch with a new one. Repairing it is pointless and expensive; it is better to buy a new one and install it.
5. The timing belt has moved 1-2 teeth. Often this problem occurs when changing the motor. The solution requires reinstalling the timing belt. This can be done if you follow the instructions, but it is better, of course, to seek help from specialists.
6. Lean fuel system. If such a system enters the engine, then flashes and sparks are natural. The solution to the problem is to check the fuel fluid in the float chamber. You also need to check the cleanliness of the air and fuel jets. You can also clean the carburetor with a special solution. If the problem persists, you need to check whether the accelerator pump is working properly.
7. The intake valve is burnt out. If the plate is not pressed well against the valve, sparks will appear. It is quite possible that it burned out or sagged over time. Using a compression gauge you can identify the malfunction. If there is a problem, you need to remove the cylinder head and replace it with a new one.
8. Small recesses in the valve device. It happens that when repairing a motor, the recesses are made too small so that it creates less noise during operation. However, because of this, the plates do not fit tightly to the seats, which leads to shots in the carburetor. To eliminate the malfunction, you need to check and adjust the gaps.

Lean fuel assembly

Operating a carburetor on a lean fuel assembly often becomes a source of popping noise a priori. This is due to the combustion process itself, which in this case occurs slowly. Symptoms of this type of malfunction are similar to ignition failures. The poor fuel assembly burns after a new intake stroke begins.

Lean fuel mixture

A lean fuel assembly is almost the main reason for overheating of the power plant. The pop is created first in the intake, and only then the sound is transmitted to the mixing chamber of the carb.

The root causes of the formation of a lean fuel assembly must be sought in the carburetor itself, fuel lines, filters or in the fuel pump. As a rule, this is due to air penetration into the system or clogging of the jets, which are the main components - dispensers.

It is also important to be able to check at what level the fuel is in the float chamber. Often something similar happens due to the curvature of the float.

At the same time, it would be a good idea to test the accelerator pump. This part of the carburetor can also play a role when shots appear. This is especially true if it shoots when you press the gas pedal.

Carburetor accelerator pump

If the problem is related to the carburetor and its components, then sometimes it is enough to treat the inside of the device with an aerosol spray to clean the metering devices. After that, all that remains is to properly adjust everything. It would also be a good idea to replace the fuel filters.

General manifestation of the malfunction

Popping noises in the carburetor may appear under the following circumstances:

• after engine repair;
• there was an accident or a pothole on the road;
• tuning or simply adjustment of the carburetor was carried out;
• the car has high mileage.

In this case, a malfunction may occur in the following cases:

• when you press hard on the gas pedal;
• after parking, with a cold engine;
• on the go under load;
• when trying to start the engine.

Depending on the reason that caused the carburetor to shoot, popping noises can appear either abruptly or gradually, increasing in intensity daily. Operating a car when the engine sneezes into the carburetor, in addition to discomfort for the driver, can lead to the need for major engine repairs.

Poor starting of the VAZ 2107 engine in the cold season

Almost all the problems with the VAZ 2106 engine listed above are typical for the warm season. Poor starting of the “six” engine in winter should be discussed separately. The main reason for this phenomenon is obvious: frost. Due to the low temperature, the engine oil thickens, as a result, the starter simply cannot crank the crankshaft at a high enough speed. In addition, the oil in the gearbox also thickens. Yes, when the engine starts, the car is usually in neutral gear. But on it, the shafts in the gearbox are also rotated by the engine. And if the oil thickens, these shafts create a load on the starter. To prevent this from happening, you need to fully depress the clutch when the engine starts. Even if the car is in neutral gear. This will take the load off the starter and speed up the start of a cold engine. There are a number of other typical problems due to which the engine cannot start in cold weather. Let's list them:

• poor compression in the engine. This problem is very often observed in old “sixes” with high mileage: compression in the cylinders in the cold becomes very low. Not only can compression be low, but it can also be different. For example, in two cylinders it is normal, in the other two it is low. If the driver has found out that the reason for poor engine starting is low compression, and the car needs to be started urgently, then you should unscrew all the spark plugs and add a little engine oil to the combustion chambers (it is better to do this using a syringe - five “cubes” of oil in each cylinder will be sufficient). After this, you should crank the starter of the car several times without screwing in the spark plugs. The spark plugs are then screwed into place and the engine starts as the engine oil significantly increases compression in the cylinders (albeit only briefly). And to completely eliminate the problem, a major overhaul of the engine should be carried out. And in particular - replacing the piston rings. Without this, normal compression in the cylinders cannot be restored.

There is another way to start a hopelessly frozen car: use the so-called starting fluid. It is sold in auto parts stores. It is injected directly into the carburetor (to do this, you will have to unscrew the air filter cover). And if you don’t want to tinker with the filter cover in the cold, you can unscrew the spark plugs and inject liquid into the combustion chambers. This is also an option, although not as effective;

Featured Posts

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

Hello. I have a VAZ21063 with a contact ignition Solex carburetor, the car started shooting at the carburetor when the 2-chamber was opened. I myself understand the ignition and the carburetor. I washed, blew out the carburetor, rebuilt the trampler, adjusted the valves, set the ignition, checked the compression to 10 in all, changed the spark plugs and wires, none of the above helped. Help who can.

Susanin33

• local
• VIP Member
• 66
• 1,503 publications
• Car make: VAZ – 21093
• From: Russia, Vladimir

Help who can.

lean mixture, early ignition, insufficient closing of the intake valve

Protva

• Mechanic
• VIP Member
• 356
• 6,001 publications
• Car make:Chevrolet Lanos SX
• From: south Mos. region

I'll add a blown gasket between the manifold and the head.

zhigalo

• Advanced
• Advanced Members
• 3
• 263 publications
• Car make: VAZ 2107
• From:Kostanay

Did you set the distributor according to the marks?

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

lean mixture, early ignition, insufficient closing of the intake valve

I changed the 2-carb plus adjusted it, set the ignition earlier and later, checked the valves twice, measured the compression at 10 in all. Nothing has changed.

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

I'll add a blown gasket between the manifold and the head.

the engine runs fine at XX, the tasol does not go away, the spark plugs c1-4 are red, the engine does not run louder. The car began to shoot at the carburetor when opening the 2nd chamber. What is the problem with the gasket between the manifold and the head????

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

Did you set the distributor according to the marks?

Yes, according to the marks.

Susanin33

• local
• VIP Member
• 66
• 1,503 publications
• Car make: VAZ – 21093
• From: Russia, Vladimir

Yes, according to the marks.

vacuum advancer

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

vacuum advancer

The vacuum corrector was checked to be normal, I even tried turning it off, no change.

Protva

• Mechanic
• VIP Member
• 356
• 6,001 publications
• Car make:Chevrolet Lanos SX
• From: south Mos. region

spark plugs s1-4 red

It is better to replace spark plugs with red insulator. Over time, they begin to break through to ground.

Sorrel

• Advanced
• Advanced Members
• 29
• 365 publications
• Car make: VAZ 21093
• From:Russia

I’ll get into the conversation, try to pull out the choke a little, and you’ll go for a ride. It’s quite possible that he’ll stop shooting, if he stops I’ll tell you what’s going on next))) If he continues to shoot, I won’t be able to do anything to help. And even if the car is warmed up, still open the choke a little while driving.

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

I’ll get into the conversation, try to pull out the choke a little, and you’ll go for a ride. It’s quite possible that he’ll stop shooting, if he stops I’ll tell you what’s going on next))) If he continues to shoot, I won’t be able to do anything to help. And even if the car is warmed up, still open the choke a little while driving.

The choke really helps and the engine stops firing! what’s the matter??? share your guesses, is it really possible that the carb is fucking brains....?

Protva

• Mechanic
• VIP Member
• 356
• 6,001 publications
• Car make:Chevrolet Lanos SX
• From: south Mos. region

It's also interesting to know what the reason is. I can only assume that somewhere... I won’t guess. Waiting for Sorrel

.

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

It is better to replace spark plugs with red insulator. Over time, they begin to break through to ground.

The spark plugs have nothing to do with it, I changed the same canoe.

Sorrel

• Advanced
• Advanced Members
• 29
• 365 publications
• Car make: VAZ 21093
• From:Russia

Do you have a temperature regulator? Today I personally encountered popping noises (in Moscow today it was -12), all this was due to the supply of Cold air, (I didn’t have a thermostat on the 9th) I installed it, the popping noises disappeared. So the problem with popping noises is that Pts gets into the carburetor. cold air. check the thermostat, maybe it hasn’t been working for a long time...

VAZochnik

• Newbie
• Users
• 0
• 9 publications
• Car make:VAZ 21061,VAZ 21074,VAZ 21124,
• From: Mordovia

If five carburetors have already been changed and there are no changes, then the problem is not with them (c).

In my opinion, you need to completely change the SZ distributor + coil. Take known good ones and see what changes. Start by replacing the coil; if that doesn’t help, change the distributor assembly.

I had a similar problem - that in the end it hurt - no one could explain. Some shouted that the capacitor on the distributor was broken, others that its bearing was jammed... It ended with the transition to BSZ. The troubles are over.

Motorist

• Advanced
• Advanced Members
• 17
• 375 publications
• Car make: VAZ 21074, Java 638.
• From: g. Pavlovo

In the winter, with the air cap turned off, my air pump would stall for the winter. You drive and drive, and suddenly the engine stalls. You wait for 10 minutes and you can go again. I turned the lid to winter time and that was it. And SZ has nothing to do with it. This is the same as trying to eliminate rear axle noise by changing the pump bearing.

n1ger

• Guru
• VIP Member
• 28
• 562 publications
• Car make:VAZik 21043
• From: Saldyukino

Idk... I drove around all winter with the switch turned off =)

and now the pan has been sawn apart =) it doesn’t seem to stall or fire...

although... there is... it happens... the scolex began to shoot (rarely, really, very rarely). I didn't notice this with ozone.

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

Idk... I've been driving around all winter with the switch not turned =)
but now the pan has been sawn apart =) it doesn't seem to stall or fire...

although... there is... it happens... the scolex began to shoot (rarely, really, very rarely). I didn't notice this with ozone.

What kind of Solex, and what kind of jets are they?

n1ger

• Guru
• VIP Member
• 28
• 562 publications
• Car make:VAZik 21043
• From: Saldyukino

Solex 83-51... rebuilt =D

top from 83 regular, bottom from 83-51. I bored out the diffusers to 2324. I don't remember the jets.

seems like this:

TZh1 107.5 VZh1 150

TZh2 115 VZh2 165

(I can’t find a standard repair kit for 21053-20 =((( )

I installed the current accelerator nose from the Niva and that’s it.

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

Guys, does anyone have a Solex08 without modifications on the 11th engine, and with what jets? Otherwise I’m stuck... surf the forums, one has some tariffs for jets, another has different ones, huh.. you’ll understand which ones are needed. I have

GTZH 1.K-97.5 GTZH 2.K-97.5 GVZH 1.K165 GVZH 2.K125

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

AU...... Is it really possible that 518 people who read the topic cannot answer the last question asked!!!!!!!!!!!

Radio technician

• Master
• VIP Member
• 578
• 2,185 publications
• Car make: VAZ 21053
• From:Ekaterinburg

What does carb have to do with it? The chain is ground off faster and the phases are delayed. This includes closing the intake valve during early ignition. They put it on early because the engine doesn't work (?).

Hurik

• Newbie
• Users
• 1
• 19 publications
• Car make: VAZ21063
• From:Donetsk

What does carb have to do with it? The chain is ground off faster and the phases are delayed. This includes closing the intake valve during early ignition. They put it on early because the engine doesn't work (?).

My friend, you didn’t understand me, the problem with shooting into the carb was solved by increasing the valve clearance. Now the problem is the following, I recently installed a Solex 08 since my native ozone has worn out in 21 years, the jets on the Solex are as follows

GTZh 1.K-97.5 GTZh 2.K-97.5 GVZh 1.K165 GVZh 2.K125, at xx the engine is like a clock, on the 1st chamber it runs great, but on the 2nd chamber the car becomes stupid, jerks and there is no acceleration. Carb soap was blowing through the effect 0. What's the matter? Maybe the level in the PC or the jets is not what it should be?

ivan65

• Newbie
• Users
• 0
• 4 publications
• Car make: VAZ 2107
• From: Rostov

It is necessary to adjust the fuel pump pusher (either it sticks out a little or is worn out, if it is worn out, replace it with a new one) and this will most likely help. As a rule, the malfunction is on the surface - you just need to think about it.

Doesn't start in winter

The problems described above mainly occur in the summer, but there are also a number of breakdowns in which the VAZ stops starting in the cold. Here the main reason remains frost. Because of it, in particular, the lubricant thickens, which prevents the crankshaft from rotating normally. A simple trick will help relieve the load - just when you start the engine, squeeze the clutch all the way.

Trouble also arises due to decreased compression in the cylinders. A similar problem is typical for Zhiguli cars with high mileage. This requires a thorough overhaul of the engine under stationary conditions with the obligatory replacement of rings and piston seals.

When you need to at least make it to the garage or service station, do this:

• turn out the spark plugs;
• pour no more than 5 cubic centimeters of oil (regular motor oil) into the combustion chambers;
• crank the starter several times by hand;
• put the spark plugs on and start.

If the engine is hopelessly frozen, you will have to use starting fluid - this composition is easy to buy in specialized stores. The substance must be poured directly into the carburetor. To gain access there, unscrew the cap on the air filter.

Sometimes the problem is caused by a weak spark on the spark plugs. On hot summer days, this circumstance does not interfere with starting the engine, but in cold weather the situation changes radically. The problem is created due to poor contact at the terminals of the ignition coil and distributor. Disconnect them, clean them from oxides and dirt.

Concurrent symptoms

As a rule, the situation is accompanied by a number of other signs:

• unstable operation of the internal combustion engine in idle mode;
• difficulty starting;
• loss of power and throttle response of the power unit;
• rapid overheating of the motor;
• increase in fuel consumption.

Note also that in such a situation the car accelerates poorly. When you press the accelerator pedal, jerks, dips, and delays appear. The car jerks a lot, especially in transition modes. The power plant does not so much work as “sneeze.”

Equilibrium mechanism

This mechanism is designed to reduce strong engine vibration. The design is quite strong and reliable. The main failure is a broken gear. The situation can be resolved by replacing the toothed disc.

As a result, it should be said that most of the above situations can be avoided if quality maintenance is carried out on the car and, in particular, the engine. The Oka is considered a rather capricious machine, so it is recommended to constantly monitor and care for it so that it is always on the move and helps out at the right time.

Can a bang in the muffler damage the engine?

Shots in the exhaust system are considered a consequence of failures in engine adjustment and a violation of its settings.

This indicates the need to check three systems - ignition, timing and fuel supply.

If you delay repairs, there is a high risk of engine damage.

Untimely restoration can lead to damage to the integrity of the valves, malfunction of the exhaust system, and even a car fire.

The only positive aspect of “sneezing” is the ability to detect a malfunction in advance and take action.

During the repair process, a comprehensive check of the internal combustion engine, adjustments and installation of new consumables are often necessary.

Popping sounds from cars with HBO

Unfortunately, this problem also affects cars that use liquefied gas as fuel. According to statistics, owners of cars with injection engines and third-generation gas equipment most often encounter it.

Gas pops can be heard both in the intake manifold and in the exhaust system (in particular, in the muffler). There are two main reasons for this:

• There is no stable and sufficient gas supply . This occurs due to incorrect settings of the gas reducer or a clogged air filter. For fuel-injected cars, the culprit may be the mass air flow sensor (MAF). “Glitches” in its operation lead to incorrect operation of the electronics. That is, we get a lean or enriched gas mixture, resulting in popping noises.
• Incorrect ignition angle . In this case, the situation is similar to that described above. If the ignition is late, the muffler “slams”, if it is early, the intake manifold or filter.

Monitor the status of your HBO and its settings. Don't neglect problems when they arise. Otherwise, you may not only face expensive repairs, but also spontaneous combustion of the car’s power unit.

Conclusion

Popping noises from the exhaust pipe are signs of a non-critical , but rather unpleasant “illness”. In addition to external manifestations, the engine and exhaust system deteriorate, and excessive fuel consumption occurs, which leads to unnecessary waste of money for the car owner. Also, if the problem is ignored for a long time, the valve, exhaust pipe, resonator or muffler may burn out. In general, if such a breakdown occurs the machine can be used , but it is recommended to carry out repair work at the first opportunity. If you cannot or do not want to do them yourself, contact a service station for help.

High voltage wires

When carrying out repairs affecting the ignition system, the high-voltage wires may be connected incorrectly. In this case, the spark will not occur in time with the compression cycle, resulting in popping sounds. Even if the engine starts, its power is not enough to move the car.

To diagnose a malfunction, you should check the connection of the wires from the spark plugs to the distributor. You should push off from the mark located on the cover. The connection of high-voltage wires must correspond to the car model. For example, the location of high-voltage wires in the VAZ 2109 is shown below.

Correct connection of high-voltage wires VAZ 2109

The engine stalls regularly - the throttle position sensor is broken

Regular stopping of the car engine may indicate that the problem is a malfunction of the throttle sensor. This sensor measures the force when you press the gas. The data goes to the ECU (electronic control unit) of the propulsion system. The volume of fuel that should be injected into the combustion chamber of the engine is calculated.

This operation is carried out unnoticed by the driver, in a split second.

If the damper sensor provides erroneous information, injection of the required amount of fuel may not occur. This moment can often be observed when the driver presses the gas pedal. Only a mechanic can perform a quality check of the functioning of the sensor. This requires special knowledge.

As an additional signal, you can pay attention to the “Check Engine” indicator. If it lights up, then we can assume that there is a breakdown of the throttle sensor

Why does it shoot at the silencer?

The main reason that the engine shoots into the muffler is unburned fuel that has entered the exhaust system and ignited in it. The more gasoline leaks out, the louder the bang will be, and in some cases there may even be a whole series of “shots.” In turn, fuel can enter the exhaust system for various reasons. These could be malfunctions of the carburetor, timing belt, ignition system, various sensors (on injection machines) and so on.

The situation when someone shoots into the exhaust pipe can occur under different circumstances. For example, when over-accelerating, at idle speed of the engine or when relieving gas. As a rule, when there is a bang, a large amount of smoke . This malfunction is also accompanied by additional symptoms - loss of engine power, floating idle speed, increased fuel consumption. Let's look at the reasons why the muffler shoots in order, as well as methods for troubleshooting.

The starter rotates, but there are no flashes

The next typical malfunction is the rotation of the starter in the complete absence of flashes. Here are the reasons why this could happen:

• broken timing belt. The first thing the owner of a VAZ 2106 should do when noticing the rotation of the starter without flashes is to check the integrity of the timing belt. It's simple: the starter rotates properly, but the torque is not transmitted to the crankshaft, since there is simply nothing to transmit it to, since the timing belt has broken (or has flown off the guides - this also happens if the belt is heavily worn and begins to sag). The solution is obvious: the timing belt will have to be changed;

Mixture composition

If the engine is supplied with a too lean or rich mixture, then shooting is also possible. This situation may arise if the carburetor has been adjusted. Incorrect installation of the quality screw leads to incorrect preparation of the air-fuel mixture.

When operating on a lean mixture, the mixture burns slowly. When the intake valve opens, fuel continues to burn out. It ignites a new combustible mixture. Combustion occurs in the intake manifold and the engine shoots into the carburetor. At the same time, an increase in engine temperature is observed.

When working with an enriched mixture, black carbon deposits form on the electrodes. If there is enough plaque and a high temperature, it can ignite the air-fuel mixture at the wrong time. This causes the carburetor to pop as the intake valve is open at this time. This malfunction only appears when the engine is warm. Gradually the engine sneezes more and more often. A significant drop in power in this case is extremely rare.

For diagnosis, you should inspect the spark plugs. The presence of a white color indicates operation on a lean mixture. Black plaque, on the contrary, indicates over-enrichment.

To eliminate the malfunction, the carburetor should be inspected. If adjustment does not help, then flushing is required. You should also be careful about the fuel purchased at gas stations.

Problems with injection cars

According to statistics, the problem of shots in the muffler is more often encountered by owners of carburetor cars. However, it can also occur with a fuel-injected car. However, their reasons for popping are different.

In such machines, the engine operation is controlled by the ECU based on information from numerous sensors. And if any of them gives false information, this leads to incorrect motor control. For example, if the air intake sensor is faulty, this will lead to incorrect formation of the fuel mixture. You should also check the crankshaft position sensor. If it provides information about a displacement of one tooth, this will also lead to incorrect operation of the system. The throttle position sensor, Hall sensor and other elements may fail.

The very first thing you should do is conduct computer diagnostics of your car. It will show which sensor or engine element is having problems. When the muffler is fired, it is also advisable to check the injector using computer diagnostics.

Late and early ignition

With late ignition, combustion of the air-fuel mixture occurs throughout the entire power stroke. When the intake valve opens, the burning old mixture ignites fresh fuel. The engine overheats significantly during such operation. Popping noises can be observed not only in the carburetor, but also in the muffler.

For diagnostics, it is recommended to check the set ignition timing and, if necessary, adjust it. Whitened spark plug electrodes serve as indirect evidence of late ignition.

If the spark appears too early, the fuel will not ignite in a timely manner. In this case, the intake valve does not have time to close, and the combustible mixture inside the intake manifold ignites.

Particular attention should be paid to the OZ if work was carried out to repair the ignition system. It is required to produce the moment of sparking. The ignition timing is adjusted by turning the distributor relative to the scale.

Inspection of the ignition timing

High-voltage wiring and OZ

It is recommended to start diagnostics with the ignition system. All armored wires must be thoroughly tested, because disorganization of the placement of spark plug outlets will easily lead to chaos in the supply of sparks to the cylinders of the engine unit. It is when the high-voltage wires are mixed up and unstable operation of the internal combustion engine is observed, shooting into the carb, etc.

Why does the engine fire the carburetor?

There are special marks on the ignition distributor cover. They are intended to indicate the exact wiring diagram. This point with the spark plug outputs must be checked, and only then proceed to the settings of the OZ.

If early ignition is set, then shooting into the carburetor should definitely be present. This can be explained simply - the impulse passes too quickly, the fuel assembly is ignited not at the moment the compression process is completed, but in the phase when the piston approaches TDC.

A knocked down OZ creates a situation where the mixture burns out untimely and the combustion process is disrupted. The lumbago increases and can also radiate into the exhaust system (with late ignition). The worst thing is that the burning out of the remaining fuel assemblies spreads to fresh charging doses. This mixture enters the engine from the carb during startup, and it begins to overheat greatly.

Early ignition

You can determine the settings of the OZ that have been disrupted by the candles, or rather, by their color. A white coating on them or the appearance of soot will be a signal for the driver, who must check and set the correct ignition by adjusting the OZ. The distributor is adjusted by turning it.

The distributor itself can also become a reason to shoot into the carb. Often it deteriorates or problems arise due to a breakdown of the cover, failure of the slider or armored wiring at the points of their connection.

It is recommended to check the magnetic regulator and pay attention to the distributor bearing. During the diagnostic process, it would be correct to use an initially functional distributor and carry out diagnostics on it. This will allow you to quickly and accurately localize device problems. The same actions are carried out with the switch, because if it malfunctions, the entire spark formation process is disrupted.

Carburetor not tuned

Often the reason that the engine shoots into the muffler is an incorrectly configured carburetor. Its task is to create a fuel-air mixture, which is then supplied to the engine. If it is configured in such a way that the mixture is oversaturated with gasoline, a situation similar to that described above is created. The solution here is to check and adjust the “carb”.

The first step is to check the fuel level in the chamber where the float is located. Each carburetor is individually adjusted and has its own level. However, if its cover is removed, the float should be flush with the level of the cover. If this is not the case, adjust the level. Also be sure to check the integrity of the float . If it is damaged, fuel may leak into it, causing it to display the level incorrectly.

The reason that the carburetor shoots into the muffler may also be the jets. They are either configured incorrectly or become clogged over time. If the air jet does not supply enough air, the mixture becomes oversaturated with gasoline with the result described above. Often this malfunction occurs when the engine goes from idle to higher speeds, or with a sharp increase in speed (acceleration). It is necessary to check the condition of the jets and clean them if necessary.

The starter works, the engine starts and then stalls

In some situations, the car owner cannot start the engine of his “six” even if the starter is working properly. It looks like this: after turning the ignition key, the starter makes two or three turns, the engine “seizes”, but literally stalls a second later. This happens because of this:

• The fuel pump is not working properly. The situation is simple: very little fuel is supplied to the combustion chamber, and literally after one engine stroke the supply of the fuel mixture stops. There is only one way out: remove the pump, disassemble it and carefully inspect it for wear and mechanical damage. If the problem is really in it, change it;
• the fuel line is clogged. This is another reason why little fuel mixture enters the combustion chambers of the “six”. It's no secret that the quality of gasoline in our country leaves much to be desired. Modern gasoline contains a lot of foreign impurities, which are gradually deposited on a variety of surfaces - from the inner walls of combustion chambers to fuel pipes. If the fuel pump and starter are working properly, but the car still won’t start, then it’s time to remove and clean the fuel line. This is best done using ordinary kerosene;
• one or more injectors are clogged. If checking the fuel pump and fuel pipes does not lead to anything, there is one more option: unscrew and check the injectors. They keep getting clogged because of the same low-quality gasoline. And when clogged, they wash everything in the same kerosene;
• armored wire closure. If no problems have been identified with the fuel supply system, but the car still does not start, you should pay attention to the ignition system, and in particular, to the so-called armored pipes. If the integrity of the insulation of one or more wires is broken, and the insulation at the damage site turns black, then there is a short circuit. A spark plug with a damaged wire cannot produce a spark normally, as a result the engine stalls before it can start. There is only one way out of this situation: purchasing and installing a new set of spark plug wires;

Video: poor engine starting in summer due to accumulation of gasoline vapors

Diagnostics

You can diagnose the condition of the engine and the operation of the fuel system using spark plugs. If the center electrode of the spark plug is white, this indicates that the engine is running on a lean mixture. If the carbon deposits are black and dry, then this indicates a rich mixture.

To eliminate this problem, it is recommended to adjust the carburetor. It is better to use a gas analyzer, since settings that rely on human senses do not always give the desired result. In addition, you need to choose a gas station before buying fuel - sometimes black deposits can form due to the quality of gasoline.

Exhaust manifold problem?

In order for the motor to work without breakdowns, it is extremely important that it is sealed. A high level of tightness is achieved through the use of gaskets

Very rarely the car starts to stall when you press the gas when depressurization occurs. In this situation, air enters the exhaust manifold.

Ultimately, this leads to the fact that the operation of preparing the fuel mixture fails. Excess air entering the fuel disrupts the entire work process. How to prevent this problem? It is necessary to seek help from professionals, since it is difficult to fix the breakdown on your own.

Burnout of the gasket in the cylinder area leads to cooling liquid beginning to penetrate into the engine. If the driver starts to press on the gas, the number of revolutions decreases sharply. In such a situation, it is necessary to change the gasket.

Thus, the engine may stall in different situations. There are many reasons for this problem

If they occur, it is important to carry out a timely diagnosis. Almost all problems can be fixed on your own

If the problem is serious, then it is advisable to contact professionals. It is unsafe to drive a disabled car.

Switch failure

Typically, a breakdown of the switch makes it impossible to start the engine, so popping noises will be observed when trying to start. To diagnose, just install a new device. If the motor stops firing, then the switch needs to be replaced or repaired. What to do depends on the type of breakdown and the capabilities of the car owner.

Very often this malfunction can be detected at an early stage. The engine speed begins to fluctuate, and when you sharply press the gas pedal, the car accelerates with dips in traction. Small popping noises are heard from the engine compartment.

Additional reasons

There are a number of other reasons why the exhaust pipe shoots. These include:

• Popping noises when idling the engine are possible for two reasons - a leak in the intake manifold, as well as a clogged idle system.
• Poor quality gasoline or gasoline with a low octane number. Try to refuel at reputable gas stations and use fuel recommended by the manufacturer of your car.
• Mixed spark plug wires . If, when replacing or checking spark plugs, you mixed up the wires connected to them, this will also be a likely cause of popping noises. In this case, the car may not start and “shoot” at the muffler.
• If your machine has an economizer , check its operation. Often the malfunction of this unit is also the cause of “shots”.
• Malfunction of the air damper . Check this element and adjust if necessary.
• One of the reasons when the muffler shoots when releasing gas is that the muffler downpipe ( “pants” ) is poorly screwed to the exhaust manifold. Check the tightness of the connection and tighten it if necessary.
• Another likely cause of popping noises is high performance fuel injectors (“leaking”). They supply too much fuel, which does not have time to burn completely, which leads to “shots”. There is a simple way to check. It is necessary to try to start the engine at high engine speeds (with the gas pedal depressed) (the so-called purge mode). If popping noises occur at this time, it means that at least one injector is leaking.
• In injection cars, late ignition and, as a result, popping noises can be caused by “fatigue” of the knock sensor . It can also respond to extraneous noises occurring in the engine. The operation of the sensor must be checked using computer diagnostics.
• If the muffler shoots when releasing gas , then one of the most common reasons for this is “burning” of the exhaust valves. Popping noises may also appear when descending a mountain in gear. Inspect and clean them.
• If your car uses a contact ignition system, then you need to check the gap on its contacts . Ignition problems, as described above, may be the reason that not all of the gasoline is burned.
• Leakage of the gas exhaust system . In this case, as a rule, single pops occur when the gas is released. First of all, check the gaskets at the connections of the pipes (catalyst, resonator, muffler).

Also, if lumbago occurs and traction deteriorates, it is recommended to check the fuel pressure in the system, as well as compression (cylinder tightness for leaks), and inspect the ignition coil.

Condensation in the muffler

The main reason for the formation of condensation in the muffler is the temperature difference between the ambient air and the muffler. Its formation in a car with a working catalyst is a natural phenomenon. It’s worse if it’s not there, but too much can cause corrosion. There is a Read more

As you can see, there are many reasons why a muffler shoots. Therefore, we advise you to start your diagnostics by checking the tightness of the exhaust system. Inspect the bolted connections and gaskets between its individual elements. This will save you time and money. This is especially true if popping noises are heard when releasing the gas or when descending a mountain in gear (when braking the engine).

If the audit does not give positive results, then it is necessary to check the operation of the carburetor, valves and other parts described above. This check is advisable if the muffler shoots when you press the gas .

Incorrect thermal clearance

The thermal gap is the distance by which individual parts of the engine increase in volume when heated. In particular, it is between the valve tappets and the camshaft cams. An incorrectly set thermal gap is one of the possible reasons why the muffler shoots.

Indirect evidence of an increase in the thermal gap may be increased noise during engine operation, as well as a decrease in its power. If the gap is reduced, this may cause gases to shoot into the exhaust pipe. This occurs due to the fact that a valve that is not completely closed allows gasoline to enter the manifold, from where it then enters the exhaust system.

The thermal clearance of the cylinder head valves can be adjusted. Therefore, to eliminate this problem, it is enough to adjust the valves. This procedure is always carried out on a cold engine.

The starter does not want to turn

As practice shows, the most obvious reason that prevents the engine of the 2106 model from starting is the starter. The last unit often does not even try to rotate after the ignition is activated.

This usually happens because the battery is low. The malfunction occurs both when the engine is cold and when it is still hot. An easy way to find out if this is the case is to turn on your headlights. Then it remains to see how brightly they glow. When the batteries are discharged, they light up dimly or do not turn on at all. What to do is clear - put the battery on charge.

Sometimes the problem is caused by improper contact at the battery terminals. Over time, they oxidize and stop conducting current normally, which is why they prevent the starter from working. Wherein:

• instrument lighting is functioning;
• the headlights are on;
• The cigarette lighter does not get hot.

Clean the VAZ-2106 battery terminals with fine sandpaper.

The next reason is a breakdown of the ignition switch. Finding out whether it works or not is quite simple. Disconnect the wires from it and short-circuit them. If the starter spins, then the fault has been found.

The solenoid relay may fail on your VAZ-2106. This is indicated by the following sign: when you turn the key, the starter remains motionless, but clicks are heard. Diagnosis is carried out as follows:

• find the relay;
• close two contacts equipped with nuts on it;
• try starting the car.

The engine starts working, which means the problem is solved.

The starter also stops turning due to:

• abrasion of brushes (replace with new ones);
• breakdown of winding insulation (buy a new unit).

Faulty timing belt

Malfunctions in the operation of the gas distribution mechanism are generally similar to problems with ignition. In particular, the exhaust valve opens at a time when the gasoline has not yet burned out. Accordingly, it enters the exhaust gas removal system, leading to the already familiar popping sounds in the muffler.

There are several causes of malfunctions in the timing system:

• Timing belt wear . A sign of this malfunction is the appearance of additional metallic pops or noises when the engine is running at low speeds. In this case, you need to inspect the belt and, if necessary, tighten or replace it. You can read how to do this in the corresponding material.
• Worn toothed pulley . In this case, it is necessary to replace it.
• Partial valve failure . Over time, they become covered with soot (especially when refueling the car with low-quality gasoline), which leads to deterioration in the operation of the mechanism. And due to hanging valve springs, the engine overheats. Therefore, it is worth checking the valves. If you find slight roughness or bends on their surface, then grinding them in is a mandatory procedure. If the scratches are significant, you need to polish them or replace the valves.

Usually, if the timing belt is faulty, popping noises in the muffler are heard when the engine is warm . If the engine is “cold”, then they are not there. This is another indirect evidence of the timing's guilt. However, to find out exactly, it is necessary to perform additional diagnostics.

Ignition timing

Now let's figure out how late ignition affects it.

Another reason that fuel explodes in the muffler is due to ignition problems.

To confirm or exclude this assumption, it is necessary to check the correct setting of the timing in the ignition system. If the latter is set up late, shots cannot be avoided.

This is due to the fact that the spark fires with a delay, already at the moment the exhaust valve opens. As a result, a certain volume of fuel ends up in the collector.

If you ignore the problem, there is a high risk of burning out the valves and exhaust pipe.

If there are no problems with the ignition, and it is configured correctly, shots still appear at the moment of starting or driving.

The reasons may be the following:

One of the reasons for the deterioration in spark quality is a problem with the spark plugs, so you need to unscrew each of them one by one and check the quality of the contacts.

Inlet valve

A bent or burnt valve is unable to seal the combustion chamber from the carburetor. Loose pressure of the plate to the seat allows gases to break into the intake manifold. In some cases, the fresh air-fuel mixture ignites.

To diagnose the problem, you need to check the compression. If a cylinder is detected with a suspected combustion chamber leak, it is necessary to fill it with engine oil. This will prevent excessive wear of the cylinder-piston group or sticking of the piston rings. A cylinder with a damaged valve shows the same compression both with and without oil.

To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to dismantle the cylinder head and replace the valve. If the valve is bent, it is recommended to check the correct timing of the timing belt. Burnout of the valve with low mileage also requires searching for the cause of this breakdown.

If you have hydraulic boosters, you should also check their operation. Sticking of the hydraulic compensator leads to the same consequences as burnout of the valve. In this case, shooting into the carburetor may not be observed all the time, but during certain periods, for example, when the engine is cold or hot. Very often, car owners complain that they shoot when I start the engine.

Disturbances in the operation of the gas distribution mechanism

Starting the engine will be accompanied by shots into the carburetor if the timing phases are out of whack, that is, the drive has jumped several teeth. In this case, if the shift is 1-2 teeth, the engine will be able to operate, but there will be a loss of power. But with a significant timing shift, the valves can be damaged. In this case, you cannot do without engine repair.

Reasons that cause shift of the gas distribution mechanism drive:

• when performing repair work on the engine, the phases are inattentively set;
• belt replacement;
• low tension, sufficient to cause slippage;
• the car gets into an accident or a pothole;
• Excessive wear of timing elements.

Installation marks for checking the correct timing of timing

To diagnose the malfunction, it is necessary to check the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and the housing. Troubleshooting depends on the effects of phase shift. In some cases, it is enough to correct the operation of the timing belt, but if the pistons hit the valves, it is impossible to do without repairing the engine.

If you notice a timing shift, you should not try to start the engine, much less apply gas, checking the possibility of travel. Starting the internal combustion engine is possible only after the timing marks have been correctly placed and the cause that caused the shift has been eliminated. Otherwise, the motor may be significantly damaged.

Fills spark plugs with engine oil

In addition to the fact that the spark plugs can be filled with gasoline, there are common cases when the spark plugs in the engine are filled with oil, a spark plug in one cylinder is filled with oil, etc. This malfunction occurs both on the injector and on engines with a carburetor.

After unscrewing the spark plug, obvious black deposits may be visible or absent on the threads; oil may also fall from the well directly onto the threads while unscrewing the spark plug, etc. In the case when the spark plugs are filled with oil from below, that is, in the cylinder itself, then the compression in the engine should be measured. There is a high probability that the oil scraper rings are badly worn, cracked or stuck. It is also possible for cylinder walls or liners to wear out, oil seals (valve seals) to fail, cracks to appear in the cylinder head, problems with valve guides and other malfunctions that lead to increased lubricant entering the combustion chamber and oiling of the spark plugs.

Carburetor transition setting

While the engine is idling, the throttle valves are closed. A vacuum (vacuum) is formed under the dampers. Thanks to this vacuum, gasoline is sucked out through a small idle channel and nozzle, and the engine itself runs smoothly at idle. If you open the damper sharply, then the vacuum also weakens. Moreover, this vacuum is not enough for normal operation of the MDS (main dosing system) in the first chamber, and the idle system and accelerator pump are not yet capable of normalizing engine operation. In other words, when you sharply press the gas after idling, there is a delay in the response to pressing the accelerator pedal.

To minimize or completely eliminate this failure, a transition system is used in the carburetor device. This diagram is a hole-slot made above the throttle valve in the first chamber. At the moment you press the gas pedal, the slot-shaped hole appears in a zone of high vacuum, due to which intensive fuel suction occurs parallel to its supply through the idle jet.

Let's go back to the settings. After the carburetor has been installed, many cars experience a failure when starting from a stop, reactions to pressing the gas pedal are slow, and the engine may start shooting at the carburetor or stall. In such a situation, the transition system may be to blame. In order to normalize the operation of the carburetor, it is necessary to correctly select the cross-section of the “spout” of the accelerator pump and the size of the idle jet.

It is important to know that the nozzles in the first chamber do not need to be touched, and the indicated failures should not be attempted to be eliminated by replacing the nozzles of the main dosing system. To solve the problem, use a previously built carburetor to correctly select the idle jet and the accelerator pump spout. Selection must be carried out after the engine has warmed up, the choke must be removed

The selection must be made after the internal combustion engine has warmed up, the choke must be removed.

In practice it looks like this:

The level in the float chamber was previously set and the idle speed was adjusted. A warm engine idles normally without chugging. A stream of gasoline from the accelerator pump nozzle hits the manifold. Now you can sharply press the gas pedal. What is needed is the sharpness of the press, and not how hard the pedal was pressed (to the floor, half a stroke or ¼). Normally, the motor should immediately respond and spin up, that is, the speed increases without delays or failures. If the response to a sharp press on the accelerator is slow or there is a noticeable pause before the speed increases, then you should go to the settings.

To accurately determine the cause, you need to press the gas pedal again, but this time smoothly, not sharply

If in this case there is an even increase in speed (without pauses, dips or delays), then you should pay attention to the idle jet and the pump spout, since the main dosing system has nothing to do with the failure. If, when you gently press the gas, the engine spins up poorly, the unit itself begins to work jerkily, hums, vibrates strongly, etc., then the problem lies in the selection of jets for the first chamber. In other words, excessive enrichment or leanness of the mixture occurs after the carburetor switches to power mode after pressing the accelerator

An indirect sign of a too “rich” mixture during operation in transition mode is that the engine emits black smoke and the smell of gasoline comes from the exhaust system. The specified smoke and odor appear after sharp throttling

In other words, excessive enrichment or leanness of the mixture occurs after the carburetor switches to power mode after pressing the accelerator. An indirect sign of a too “rich” mixture during operation in transition mode is that the engine emits black smoke and the smell of gasoline comes from the exhaust system. The specified smoke and smell appear after sharp throttling.

To remove the dip, you must carefully select the idle jets to match the pump spout or vice versa. This is done until the delay disappears when you sharply press the accelerator pedal. In parallel with this, it may be necessary to re-adjust the idle speed, since replacing the XX jet will make changes to the operation of the idle system. Let us add that if the mixture remains lean and there is a dip, and the idle jet is too large and it is not possible to adjust the idle speed, then you can install a paired pump spout, after which both tubes are bent into the first float chamber.