Front windshield wiper motor for VAZ 2109, VAZ 2108

How to remove

First of all, it is necessary to de-energize the system. To do this, simply disconnect the negative terminal on the battery.

• set the wiper arms to a vertical position;
• unscrew the nuts and remove them from the rollers;
• remove protective caps;
• twist the nuts (one on each side) securing the brackets at the top;
• dismantle the rubber sealing washers;
• in the engine compartment, remove the wiring harness from the connector;
• unscrew the bolts holding the lower part of the bracket;
• the mechanism rollers are removed from the holes;
• unscrew the nut securing the windshield wiper crank and remove it;
• dismantle the bolts holding the wiper gearbox and the motor in place;
• disconnect the wires from the bimetallic fuse and remove the engine from the bracket.

All that remains is to remove the locking ring and adjusting washers from the gear shaft and install a new motor.
Assembly is carried out in reverse order. To make it more convenient to work, we recommend moving the stove fan slightly to the right. Without this, it will not be possible to remove the windshield wiper. You will also need to remove the fuse box cover and all the relays located there.

The windshield wiper itself must also be moved slightly to the left before removal.

It is better to number the adjusting washers so that they are not confused during assembly.

Come on, get moving: why the wipers stop working and how to fix a trapeze

Probably, many owners of not very new cars are familiar with the situation in which the windshield wiper blades suddenly start working slower than usual, and then stop completely. Sometimes - right halfway through the move, in the middle of the glass. Unfortunately, it is not a cheap fuse that is to blame for this. It's all the trapezoid's fault.

Just about simple things

The trapezoid of the wipers is the same mechanism due to which the rotational movement of the brush drive motor is converted into their translational movement. At first glance, there is nothing complicated about the trapezoid: several rods, articulated joints and bushings. Moreover, it is not clear what could break there. Usually nothing breaks, it’s just that over time the connections become clogged with dirt, corrode and lose mobility. And in the case of such arthritis in the trapezius, the wipers first walk more slowly, then they simply stand up.

There is another scenario: the engine is on fire. It’s better not to wait for this, but to start repairing. Depending on their greed, the services ask for different amounts of money for this work. Some are ready to do it for five hundred rubles (which is rare), others – for one and a half thousand (which is more common). Not robbery, of course, but many will most likely want to tinker with their favorite car themselves. Therefore, we will tell you how to do this. At the end there will be a bonus for those who read the instructions after they have already broken everything.

The work has one significant advantage: it does not require complex “devices”, torque wrenches, a lift or a synchrophasotron. For example, we did everything with an ordinary set of tools from a well-known store for 600 rubles. In addition to a screwdriver, keys, hammer and Torx, you will also need graphite lubricant and some kind of liquid wrench like WD40, Valera, Runway or any other - everything is up to your taste.

Almost all trapezoids are constructed the same way and sour in the same place. We will take the Ford Focus as an example, the trapezoid of which has stubbornly turned sour at the most inopportune moment for three generations in a row. Stability, damn it. There is also a whole list of cars in which the trapezoid sours more often than we would like: from the Mercedes W204 to the Hyundai Elantra IV and any Kia Ceed. The principle will be the same everywhere. Therefore, we will tell you how to do everything on a Ford, and if you are lucky enough to buy another car, just carefully project this guide onto your car.

Bolts, latches and flexible pins

First, remove the wiper arms. Everything is simple here: remove the protective caps, unscrew the nuts and pull them off their axles. There is nothing complicated here.

Then we move on to dismantling the plastic frill. Focus has two parts – upper and lower. The top half is attached with simple latches that can be easily moved with a screwdriver. The main thing is to hold them tightly with your fingers, because at the last moment the latch may fly somewhere into the engine compartment. We put the removed latches together with the nuts and washers from the wiper arms, pull out the rubber seal from the groove and remove half of the frill. And again, all this is not difficult to do.

At this stage, the trapezoid is already clearly visible. Some people are already stopping here and taking her out of the car. To be honest, this is not very easy, so let's work with the screwdriver a little more and disassemble the car a little more. It is enough to unscrew just two bolts with Torx heads to remove the lower part of the frill. But access to the trapezoid will be downright chic. Therefore, we spend a couple more minutes and remove this part.

You just have to do this carefully: Ford engineers (damn them for just one hood lock!) for some reason made the windshield heating two-zone, so the connectors for heating the glass halves are visible on the right and left under the frill. If you swing the removed plastic like Taras Bulba with a saber, you can damage the cables.

So now we can see the trapezoid in its entirety.

In our case, the trapezoid is secured with three bolts, which we unscrew. Now you can pull it out, but again, very carefully. There is nothing surprising in the fact that there are wires that connect to the trapezoid motor, which do not need to be torn. You need to remove the terminal, but this is easier to do if you slightly pull the entire trapezoid into the light of day. The length of the wires allows this, and Ford engineers (let them be empty for all the electrics!) placed the connector latch at the bottom. So it is very, very difficult to hold it in place. Therefore, we pull the trapezoid out a little, then remove the terminal.

That's it, the trapeze is in our hands. You can breathe out. But not much, because the most difficult thing awaits us ahead.

A little strength and a lot of skill

Trapezium hinge joints are usually made from polyformaldehyde. It is such a durable material with very low friction. For example, recently mediators for guitarists have often been made from it. And for machines - these are the connections where the friction force should be minimal and wear resistance should be high. It also does not rust, which is also good. Due to all these factors, we can say that it is almost pointless to disassemble the hinges: nothing will turn sour there, and breaking the connection for the sake of curiosity is harmful. Well, if you do take it apart, you can remove the dirt from there. This will not be superfluous.

Disassembling the gearbox

If the wiper does not work due to contamination of the gearbox, then it will not be difficult to clean it. But under no circumstances should you unscrew the adjusting screw installed in it - otherwise you will most likely not be able to properly restore the armature clearance later.

The procedure is as follows:

• remove the protective panel from the gearbox;
• remove the gear;
• take out the cage nuts, having first unscrewed two bolts;
• The gear housing is disconnected together with the brush holder from the motor;
• the anchor is removed and cleaned with a compressor.

Removing the rear wiper generally follows the same algorithm, but you will also have to remove the door trim to get to the wires and other elements.

Applicability

Where else is the spare part used?

The parts data presented on this page is for informational purposes only.

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Motor repair

Many people think that replacing the motor with a similar one from a foreign car can solve the problem with the slow operation of the wipers, but in fact, it is often enough just to clean and lubricate the “original” engine.

If the speed of operation causes complaints, then it is necessary to check how easily the armature rotates: if movement is difficult, damage or excessive wear of the brushes should be suspected. They are easy to replace with new ones.

Cleaning the collector will also help - this will require fine sandpaper. The need for this procedure is said:

• visible contamination;
• noticeable scratches;
• grooves on the metal.

Connection diagram

If you encounter any difficulties, this diagram will help you figure out what you are doing wrong.

• wiper gearbox (1);
• thermobimetallic fuse (2);
• motor (3);
• washer valve (3);
• mounting block (4);
• ignition switch (5) and relay (6);
• switch (7);
• K3 front wiper relay (8);
• “A” – the contacts of the wiper pads are marked;
• “B” – output to pin 30 of the generator terminal;
• a – second speed;
• b – first;
• c – switch spring;
• d and e – his contacts;
• noise filtering capacitors – C1, C2;
• chokes – L1, L2.

Technical characteristics of the gearmotor

Shaft rotation speed at supply voltage 14 V,

moment 0.15 kgf.m

and ambient temperature 25±10°С, min –1

Current consumed under these conditions, A, no more than:

at first speed

at second speed

The purifier has three operating modes, they are activated by the right steering column switch.

Intermittent mode is provided by an electronic relay K2 type 524.3747 installed in the mounting block. This relay also turns on the wiper motor at low speed when the windshield washer is turned on.

The relay must ensure that the electric motor is turned on with a frequency of 14±4 cycles per minute at a gearmotor shaft speed of at least 20 min -1, a temperature of 20±5°C and a supply voltage of 14±0.2 V.

When the cleaner operates at low speed in constant mode, the supply voltage is supplied to diametrically opposed brushes.

When the cleaner operates at maximum speed, “+” power is supplied to the brush located on the side.

To relieve the load on the contacts of the ignition switch, the cleaner is connected through an additional relay K6 in the mounting block.

It is recommended to replace a faulty gearmotor with a new one (cleaning the commutator, limit switch contacts and replacing gears is possible).

Windshield wiper motor VAZ 2109, VAZ 2108, front

Dear customers, in order to avoid errors when sending a windshield wiper gear motor, please indicate your car model and year of manufacture in the “Comment” line.

The windshield wiper drive motor is most often replaced by the following terms: wiper motor, wiper motor (electric motor), gear motor drive, wiper motor, wiper gear motor, windshield wiper. Therefore, if you hear these terms, then know that we are talking about the same thing.

The electric motor of the wiper mechanism is designed to drive the windshield wiper arm system. The electric motor is installed in a niche under the windshield and is connected by a shaft to the windshield wiper lever system. Power supply and control of the operating modes of the electric motor are carried out using a standard connector. The motor and gearbox are made in a closed housing with protection from dust and atmospheric moisture entering the electrical parts and mechanisms of the electric motor.

The windshield wiper consists of a gear motor, levers and brushes. The electric motor of the cleaner is three-brush, excited by permanent magnets. To protect against overloads, a thermobimetallic fuse is installed in it, and capacitors and chokes are installed to reduce radio interference.

Technical characteristics of the windshield wiper gearmotor 2108-3730000 : – Rated voltage 12 V;

– Rated power 10 W;

Article: ME241, additional articles: 2103-3730000

Order code: 001655

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Gearmotor ME 241 Rated voltage – 12 V Rated power – 6 W Maximum current – ​​2.8 A Rated rotation speed – 60 min -1 Weight – 1.24 kg

Applicability: VAZ-2101. 07, -2121, -1111 Information used: JSC "KZAE"

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