№ | Name | Rating | Nomination |
1 | LUZAR VAZ 2170-72 Priora | 4.85 | Most popular pump |
2 | TZA POWERFULL | 4.80 | Better performance |
3 | FINWHALE WP126 | 4.75 | The most affordable pump |
4 | LADA 21126-1307010-82 | 4.70 | The best balance of price and quality |
5 | DOLZ 2170 | 4.67 | The most enduring |
Experienced owners and car service technicians recommend replacing the timing belts on the Lada Priora after 50-60 thousand kilometers. A new water pump is usually installed in parallel with the belts. The pump also needs to be changed if you notice leakage, jamming, noise or play - these are symptoms of damage.
What is the best pump for Priora?
The pump is the most important element of any car, including Prioras.
It ensures coolant circulation, thereby avoiding overheating of the machine. However, a number of problems can arise with the part. However, it cannot be repaired; if it fails, it will have to be replaced. However, every car enthusiast wants to install products from a good manufacturer on their car. Today we’ll talk about why a pump can break, how to choose one for a Priora and which one is better.
The pump consists of several elements that ensure its operation.
In particular: You can determine the malfunction of a part by ear.
Pay attention to noise from the timing belt.
If you hear a rumble, then the reason may lie in this element. Let's look at the main list of breakdowns:
Life hack: Priora car pump 16 valves
No driver expects his car to suddenly “boil.” This is one of the worst scenarios of the day - you will have to stop and cool the car. Rule out problems in advance - first of all, inspect the Priora pump. If the water pump of a Lada Priora car with a 16-valve engine fails, this will instantly extinguish all the car’s efforts to cool it. In addition, the timing assembly, rollers and pump break down - and this is a disaster for the engine because all these spare parts are dependent on each other. The supplied device works like a pump - it pumps up antifreeze and forces it to flow through the circuit at a certain speed, it manages to “release” the heat it receives from the engine. A pump replacement is needed when the Lada Priora pump breaks down, the coolant “stands up”, accumulating all the heat inside itself and releasing it to the surrounding air with less efficiency. That is why this device should not be allowed to malfunction.
Top 5. DOLZ 2170
Rating (2021): 4.67
The most durable Pump easily withstands intense loads and operates stably no matter what coolant is used.
- Characteristics
Average price, rub.: 1750
- Country: Spain
- Impeller: plastic
Spanish water pumps are distinguished by their unpretentiousness in relation to the coolant and the intensity of vehicle use. This pump can be installed on any Lada with a VAZ-21126 engine with 16 valves. It is reliable and durable. At the same time, it demonstrates high performance, which allows it to effectively protect the engine from overheating. This model is installed on a gasket, which is included in the kit. There is no need to additionally use sealants, since the connection is quite tight - a correctly installed pump will definitely not leak during the warranty period. Among the disadvantages that few buyers highlight is the high price of the pump.
Advantages and disadvantages
- Withstands intense loads
- Durable
- Undemanding on coolant
- No sealants needed
- Prices are a bit high
Job
You should start replacing the pump with preparatory work. To do this, drive the car into the inspection hole. This option is more convenient compared to the overpass. Drain the antifreeze. Remove the terminals from the battery, this is done to prevent an accidental short circuit. You also need to remove the belt from the generator. Some drivers remove the wheel and fender liner, but this is not necessary:
- The first cylinder is installed at top dead center. To do this, remove the right mudguard. At the same time, the front cover is dismantled. After which the crankshaft is turned (strictly clockwise) so that the marks on the pulleys and the engine coincide. Then remove the plug from the clutch housing. The mark on the flywheel must completely coincide with the one located on the motor;
- The crankshaft pulley is removed; to do this, an assistant must keep it from turning by inserting a mounting blade into the hole in the clutch housing. To unscrew the pulley you will need a 17 key;
- After which the camshaft is removed, to do this you need to hold the pulley with a special device. You can do without devices. Shift into fifth gear and press the brake pedal. Thus, you can remove the camshaft pulley without any problems;
- Remove the bracket;
- The back cover is removed;
- Next, use a hexagon to unscrew the pump. Then it is removed using a slotted screwdriver;
- Be sure to ensure that the old gasket is removed. Sometimes the gasket may burn. Cut off the remains and clean the pump landing area;
- Next, the installation site needs to be lubricated with sealant and a gasket is installed. Afterwards it is lubricated with sealant again. Install the pump. It must be placed with the number facing up;
- Reassembly is in progress.
During the assembly process you need to pay attention to some nuances. First, you need to pay attention to the installation of the pulley according to the marks. This is an extremely important point. You should also carefully tighten the timing belt. To do this, use a special key to turn the roller until it is offset with a mark - a rectangular protrusion. Next, the bolt is tightened with a torque wrench with a certain force. Article on the topic “How to set timing marks.”
Review of water pumps for Lada
- /
08/11/2015 There are currently a variety of brands and manufacturers of water pumps on the market; each manufacturer claims that its products are the best.
In addition, when the pump fails, the cooling of the car sometimes worsens, which automatically leads to increased overheating.
We will try to impartially figure out what’s what, and consider one of the most popular items - a pump for front-wheel drive eight-valve VAZ cars. To avoid any confusion, let's clear things up right away. Eight-valve engines on front-wheel drive VAZs were constantly modernized and changed, so the pumps listed below are suitable for all engines equipped with the so-called “eighth” timing belt.
If we take it by model, then these are VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2110, 21013, 21014, 21015, as well as Kalinas and Prioras of the first years of production. We purchased seven samples of pumps from different manufacturers - both domestic and foreign.
But before we start introducing the products, I would like to explain some of the terms that are used below. The impeller is a low impeller, which is located on the reverse side of the main impeller, its purpose is to relieve the shaft-housing seal.
Equally important is the presence of holes in the base of the impeller - they also help reduce the load on the mechanical shaft seal with the housing.
A ball roller bearing is a bearing that has balls on one side and rollers on the other. Such a bearing can carry greater loads than a double-row ball bearing.
HEPU
- Manufacturer: Germany.
- Retail price: rubles.
- Of the entire rating, the pump has the highest price. Despite the fact that it has only six blades made of cast iron, the performance is the highest compared to analogues. The model shows significant performance, build quality and overall neatness. The performance characteristics also evoke positive emotions among users. This model takes third place, as it is equipped with only six blades and cannot compete with the winners of this rating.
Self-replacement of the pump on a VAZ 2110 (8 valves)
- Place the car on a viewing hole or overpass.
- Open the hood, turn off the power by removing the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.
- Open the expansion tank cap.
- Go down into the pit, place a wide-necked container (at least 5 liters) under the cylinder block.
- Unscrew the coolant drain plug (key 13) and drain it. Screw the drain plug back.
- Unscrew the 3 bolts securing the timing case (10mm wrench).
- Remove the cover.
- Set the crankshaft to the top dead center position of the first cylinder. To do this, turn off the gear and turn the bolt securing the generator pulley with a 19mm wrench until the mark on the camshaft gear matches the mark on the rear timing case.
- Check the alignment of the marks on the flywheel and clutch housing. To do this, remove the rubber plug on the crankcase to the right of the cylinder block.
- Secure the crankshaft in this position by inserting a large slotted screwdriver into the flywheel teeth.
- Loosen the nut securing the tension roller (17 wrench) and turn it counterclockwise with a special wrench, loosening the tension of the timing belt.
- Remove the belt and tension roller.
- Unscrew the 5 bolts securing the lower timing case, incl. and 3 bolts securing the pump (head or end cap 10). Remove the cover.
- Using a screwdriver, pry the pump housing and pull it out. Clean the surface of the seat from fragments of the old gasket.
- Lubricate the gasket on both sides with automotive sealant and place it on the new pump housing.
- Install the new pump into place.
- Carry out assembly work in reverse order. It will be better if you replace both the belt and the tension roller along with the pump. This way you will know exactly the resource of all these parts.
- When installing the timing belt, check its tension by turning one of its fields horizontally. The correct tension is one at which the belt can be rotated by finger force no more than 90 degrees.
Selection and replacement of pump (water pump) Lada Priora
A water pump, or, as it is popularly called, a water pump, is installed on all cars with a gasoline engine without exception and is designed to cool the engine. The pump is located on the right side of the engine in the direction of travel of the car.
Getting to it for replacement will be quite problematic, both on 8 and 16 valve engines.
How to determine the need to replace your pump
A water pump can fail for two main reasons - wear of the bearing or oil seal. When the bearing wears out, a distinct hum will be heard, which is a sign that such a pump needs to be replaced. If a pump with a faulty bearing is not replaced in time, this can lead to it jamming.
The second reason for pump malfunction is leakage from under the seal. If you notice that your antifreeze or antifreeze has begun to run out, one of the reasons is precisely the pump. Check for fluid leaks in the area where the pump is located.
If so, the pump is most likely leaking. In this case, operating the car is not advisable, but is possible provided that you have to constantly add coolant.
Another sign of a pump malfunction is a worn timing belt. If the bearing is broken, the pump may “walk” slightly, which will cause the belt to eat up, and as a result, the timing belt may break and then you will have to deal with the capital of the motor, since the valves will bend.
The original pump TZA 21126-1307010-75 is installed from the factory. The cost of the pump at the moment is from 800 rubles and more, depending on the region. If for some reason you cannot find a TZA pump, you can choose a water pump from other manufacturers.
Pumps for 16 cl motor
- LUZAR LWP 0127
- FENOX HB1005P1
- HOFER HF033024
- LADA IMAGE 21126130701082
- SOATE (St. Oskol) 021126-1307010
- LUZAR LWP 01274 TURBO-2
All of the above pumps are designed for a 16 valve engine. When choosing a pump, we recommend purchasing a high-quality analogue or an original, so that you don’t have to change it again after 20-30 thousand kilometers.
The original pump TZA 2109-1307010-75 is installed on the 8-valve engine. Its cost ranges from 900 rubles and above. Several types of analogues are also offered at lower prices.
Pumps for 8 cl motor
- HOFER HF 033031
- OberKRAFT KT 059346
- AMT-Miass AM2109-1307010
- LADA IMAGE 21114130701082
- LUZAR LWP 0108
Choose a pump not only based on reviews from friends, but also based on the quality and cost of the water pump. Beware of counterfeits, as there are quite a lot of such spare parts now.
Recommendations for selecting and replacing a pump
When choosing a pump, be sure to purchase one that is suitable for your motor. A pump for a 16 valve engine is not suitable for an 8 valve engine. The difference in replacing the water pump is that there is 1 pulley on an 8-valve engine, and 2 on a 16-valve engine. By the way, from this article you can learn how to replace the fuel pump on a Lada Priora.
How to change the pump on a 16 cl engine with your own hands
Before you begin removing the pump, you will need to drain the coolant. We find the drain plug, substitute a container with a volume of about 4 liters and drain.
After draining the liquid, remove the upper decorative cover, the alternator belt, and then the front timing cover, it consists of two parts.
Now you need to set the timing marks so that during assembly you do not make a mistake with the ignition value.
Next, unscrew the pulleys. To prevent the pulley from turning, engage 5th gear and press the brake. Now the pulley will be motionless, you can safely unscrew it. Unscrew the pulley bolts using a 17mm spanner.
If you have a car with air conditioning, you need to use a 13 mm socket wrench to unscrew the bracket for the generator belt tensioner pulley and air conditioner with steering wheel.
The next step is to remove the crankshaft pulley. To do this, remove the right front wheel and mudguards. Next, engage 5th gear again and press the brake. The pulley will be fixed and can be safely unscrewed. Remove the pulley and timing belt.
Next, unscrew the 6 bolts securing the cover and then carefully remove it from the engine.
We unscrew the 6 bolts securing the pump, carefully pry it up with a screwdriver and pull it out. When installing a new pump, it is necessary to coat the gasket with a thin layer of sealant and screw it into place. Next, we reassemble in the reverse order, taking into account the timing marks.
For more detailed instructions, watch the video:
Replacing a pump on an 8 valve engine
Unlike the 16 valve, 8 valve. motor replacement is much easier. However, you will still have to remove the timing belt and drain the coolant.
Checking the pump without removing it
In some cases, you can check it without removing it: there are a number of faults that can be seen. To do this, discover the pump and then check each point:
- Backlash. If all the parts shake (or at least the pulley), then it’s time to change the part.
- Antifreeze leak. Inspect the device for signs of leaks. If they are not there, they must be elsewhere in the cooling system.
- Failure is also determined when the bearing whistles. This whistle is difficult to confuse with something: it either becomes louder or “fades away.” But keep in mind that a similar whistle can be caused by a broken generator.
How to replace the pump on a Lada Priora 16 valve car is shown in detail in this video:
Which pump to put on a Priora 16 valves
Content
Water pumps (very often called pumps) are devices that are designed to pump various types of liquids.
In our case, such pumps pump coolant in car engines. They also ensure the removal of excess accumulated heat from the cylinder block and the supply of hot liquid to the interior heater radiator. What are the advantages of LUZAR water pumps? 1) Double row ball roller bearing.
LUZAR pumps are equipped with the best and most suitable bearing from all possible and available options.
The installed bearing has a smaller contact surface area and can therefore operate at high speeds. This guarantees maximum and long-term use. It happens that on some pumps, due to the small height of the housing, ball roller bearings cannot be used, therefore, in such cases, special double-row angular contact ball bearings are used.
2) Metal-ceramic sealing element.
In order to strengthen the very movable “body-shaft” connection, a double mechanical seal is used, where the movable and stationary rings are made of ceramic. Thanks to the special properties of the material used, friction between the rings is minimized and there is almost no air gap.
Therefore, all guarantees are given for the highest possible tightness and long service life.
3) Installation of the oil seal and additional sealing of connections.
The best brands of water pumps for Lada Priora
Among manufacturers of pumps for Priora, car owners give preference to the TZA and LUZAR brands. The first one produces original parts for the Lada, and many buyers want to see exactly these on their car. And the second brand is considered one of the most reliable. The choice of manufacturers is quite large, and each has advantages.
TZA plant
Since its founding, it has been supplying parts to the AvtoVAZ assembly line. For Priora, he offers models with an 8-blade impeller, which increases the efficiency of heat removal.
Spanish pumps DOLZ
, which correspond to the original in all respects, cope with their tasks perfectly and are not capricious in relation to antifreeze.
Water pumps LUZAR
capable of operating at high speed for a long time. And the manufacturer gives them a 2-year warranty.
Pumps produced under the LADA brand –
original parts demonstrating optimal compatibility with vehicle components and high performance.
And the German brand FINWHALE
famous for the performance and extended life of the pumps.
Malfunctions
Water pump for car
The causes of failure can be different, for example, bearing jamming or the formation of play. Sometimes it happens that the impeller begins to spin freely, but separately from the shaft. The pump also needs to be replaced if it leaks or becomes noisy.
Life time. A lot depends on the quality of the pump. For example, a low-quality and defective pump can last only 10-15 thousand km. The service life of a high-quality part is when the Priora runs 100 thousand km. and more.
The manufacturer installs a pump on the Priora, produced by the Russian enterprise Togliatti Automotive Units Plant (TZA). It has a long service life.
Unfortunately, recently sales of counterfeit pumps from TZA have become more frequent. Is it possible to distinguish a fake so that your Priora does not suffer?
A high-quality box should contain a pump, inside the box there should be a warranty card with stamps and the date of manufacture and a gasket. It is mandatory to have a holographic sticker on the pump.
conclusions
Summing up our rating, it is very important to note that truly high-quality models of coolant pumps were presented here, which have proven themselves to be the best among a large number of VAZ-2112 owners, otherwise what choice you make depends only on you.
Tell me which pump to choose for the Priora. I'm looking at the Pilenga WP-P-02170 pump. Can anyone tell me about it, does it need to be improved? If you have any links, I would be grateful!
Comments 42
Kraft delivered it, so far it hasn’t gone away much, but there are no complaints, the performance is high-quality.
DOLZ L125 Bautler BTL0070WP
The existential test for my Priora gives me L126
L121 semicircular tooth; the pulley is narrow; spiral impeller blades www.autodoc.ru/images/det…5/art/L121/DOLZ_L121.jpeg L123 square tooth; narrow pulley www.autodoc.ru/images/det…5/art/L123/DOLZ_L123.jpeg L124 square tooth; wide pulley www.autodoc.ru/images/det…5/art/L124/DOLZ_L124.jpeg L125 semicircular tooth; wide pulley L126 semicircular tooth; the pulley is narrow; petals are straight
Two years ago they gave me 100 Dolz, I just went to see them and they said you have the L125.
The other day I ordered something from the Exist catalogue, and he gave me L126.
I asked the person who installed it, and he said it’s okay if it stood up normally. This says 124 square teeth. And I don’t know what to do, change or leave the pump?
Doesn't the file come with the bearing? Kick.
I drove 25,000 thousand on the mileage, then I sold the car, I had to sharpen it a little
SKF, Hepu, and at worst Dolz.
I also plan to install Pilenga, because... I have not yet encountered a single negative review on it, unlike TZA. Although on the previous Prior the original one, along with the timing kit, was gone for 135,000k, I replaced it with TZA, and another 100,000k went through, and I sold it. But they write about TZA that there are a lot of defects, so we will try Pilenga.
Tza, skfer, hepu. Skfer 135,000 passed, there was no play and it made an unpleasant sound
I set dolz, the flight is normal
Pump for Priora: choose the best one and change it yourself
A pump is a simple assembly consisting of a housing, an impeller and a bearing. The coolant circulation is ensured by such a cooling system pump.
The engine will overheat if the pump does not work. What is the service life of the pump on the Priora, and which one is better to choose? The reasons for the dying pump are extraneous sounds from the timing belt casing and poor circulation of coolant.
Water pump for a car The causes of failure can be different, for example, bearing jamming or the formation of play.
Sometimes it happens that the impeller begins to spin freely, but separately from the shaft. The pump also needs to be replaced if it leaks or becomes noisy. Service life.
A lot depends on the quality of the pump. For example, a low-quality and defective pump can last only 10-15 thousand km. The service life of a high-quality part is when the Priora runs 100 thousand km. and more. The manufacturer installs a pump on the Priora, produced by the Russian enterprise Togliatti Automotive Units Plant (TZA).
It has a long service life. Unfortunately, recently sales of counterfeit pumps from TZA have become more frequent. Is it possible to distinguish a fake so that your Priora does not suffer? A high-quality box should have a pump, inside the box there should be a warranty card with stamps and the date of manufacture and a gasket.
Top 4. LADA 21126-1307010-82
Rating (2021): 4.70
The best balance of price and quality A productive and reliable water pump under the LADA logo is in the middle price range. At the same time, the quality of the part is not satisfactory.
- Characteristics
Average price, rub.: 1503
- Country Russia
- Impeller: plastic
Original spare part intended for Lada Priora with a 16-valve engine. Provides stable circulation of coolant and protects the engine from overheating. Due to the plastic 7-blade impeller, the part is lightweight, which makes life easier for the engine. But under the influence of high temperatures of antifreeze, the blades can become deformed and begin to scroll. However, this pump is productive and durable. Those who install this water pump on their car say that it is of high quality and lasts for at least 50,000 km. At the same time, the price for the part is affordable.
Advantages and disadvantages
- Original pump
- High performance
- Light weight
- Durability
- Plastic impeller
When to change your pump
A clear sign that the pump needs to be replaced are the following points.
- In the warm season, there is frequent overheating of the power plant, although there is enough antifreeze in the expansion tank.
- Leaks appearing at the pump connections. Failure can be detected by fogging of the case or the presence of wet spots of a characteristic composition.
- Extraneous noise coming from the pump when the engine is running - it can be knocking, rustling or crackling.
- In winter, the heater stops working even when the engine is normally warmed up.
You should also consider the service life of the part on a particular vehicle. For most cars, the operating time of the device ranges from 60,000 to 90,000 kilometers. In some cars, this gap can reach 120,000 km. The manufacturer recommends replacing the pump before its service life expires.
What kind of pump is installed on Priora
The original pump TZA 21126-1307010-75 is installed from the factory. The cost of the pump at the moment is from 800 rubles and more, depending on the region. If for some reason you cannot find a TZA pump, you can choose a water pump from other manufacturers.
- LUZAR LWP 0127
- FENOX HB1005P1
- HOFER HF033024
- LADA IMAGE 21126130701082
- SOATE (St. Oskol) 021126-1307010
- LUZAR LWP 01274 TURBO-2
All of the above pumps are designed for a 16 valve engine. When choosing a pump, we advise you to purchase a high-quality analogue or an original pump, so that you do not have to change it again after 20-30 thousand kilometers.
- HOFER HF 033031
- OberKRAFT KT 059346
- AMT-Miass AM2109-1307010
- LADA IMAGE 21114130701082
- LUZAR LWP 0108
Choose a pump not only based on reviews from friends, but also based on the quality and cost of the water pump. Beware of counterfeits, as there are quite a lot of counterfeit parts these days.
Which pump is better to choose for a 16-valve VAZ 2112?
- Gates
- Manufacturer: Republic of Belarus.
- HEPU
- WEEN
- The pump from the manufacturer FENOX is one of the cheapest on the market.
- TZA
- Retail price: 300-350 rubles.
- Luzar
- FENOX
- » » » Today we will tell you how to choose the right coolant pump, what to look for, and find out what experienced VAZ-2112 owners advise. After diagnosing various forums, we compiled a rating of all pumps that are popular among VAZ-2112 car enthusiasts and compiled a rating that can fully reveal all the advantages and disadvantages of each model. The video explains how to distinguish an original pump from a fake, and what to look for when choosing this part: Previously, we wrote about how to check the performance and how Contents Signs of a fake pump. This is clearly not the famous Gates. That's why we didn't include it in our rating, there are too many fakes. Pumps are produced with six and seven blades; they differ in manufacturer and technical characteristics. According to various tests carried out, those models with seven blades perform much better during operation than its limited counterpart. Below we will present you with a rating of the five best pumps, the performance of which varies in the same range. Which pump is better to choose for a 16-valve VAZ-2112?
- FENOX
WEEN
- HEPU
- Luzar
- TZA
- Gates
Loading .
FENOX pump
- Manufacturer: Republic of Belarus.
- Retail price: 300-350 rubles.
- The pump from the manufacturer FENOX is one of the cheapest on the market.
Thermostat
Next you need to go to the thermostat. "Priora" (16 valves), in which replacement of the thermostat itself does not need to be replaced, remains as before not running. The next step is to remove the temperature sensor from the element body. It is used to control the temperature of antifreeze. Now, of course, loosen a few fixing bolts and freely pull the thermostat out. The sealing gasket is removed from the studs. After which we need to extract what remains to be done for our client to make candles. With all this, such an act as replacing a pump is a fairly simple mechanical unit, which consists of several main parts. The design of the pump consists of several elements, one of which is
Rating of the TOP 7 best pumps for VAZ
To understand which pump on the VAZ model is better, it is recommended to make a rating. The following is a table that lists the instances from last to first.
№ | Name | Performance | Supply voltage | Current consumption | Nozzle diameter | Length |
7 | TZA 2107130701075 | 160-170 l/min | 12V | 0.3V | 32 mm | 210 mm |
6 | Dolz L120 | 160 l/min | 12V | 0.3V | 32 mm | 210 mm |
5 | HOFER HF033024 | 170 l/min | 12V | 0.3V | 32 mm | 210 mm |
4 | Metelli 24-0833 | 170 l/min | 12V | 0.3V | 32 mm | 210 mm |
3 | FENOX HB1001L1.1 | 160 l/min | 12V | 0.3V | 32 mm | 210 mm |
2 | LUZAR 21124-1307010 | 170 l/min | 12V | 0.3V | 32 mm | 210 mm |
1 | Bosch 0392020024 | 180 l/min | 12V | 0.3V | 32 mm | 210 mm |
TZA 2107130701075
The TZA pump, applicable to the VAZ-2107 and other classic models, is one of the available options on the market.
A sealing gasket and a passport are supplied with the product. The packaging is branded, there is a protective sticker. The product is assigned a unique identification number.
The impeller of the pump is made of plastic and has 7 blades.
The reviews note a small resource, play appears quickly. It is not recommended to install this pump on cars with a 16-valve engine. If a part jams, there is a high probability of serious repairs.
Source
Tips for choosing pumps for Lada Priora
In the line of any brand there are pumps for different car models, differing in dimensions and design features. When choosing a water pump, you need to take into account the mounting dimensions and materials from which the part is made.
The pump body for cars is made of aluminum. The metal does not corrode and is easy to shape into any shape. Manufacturers most often choose steel for the shaft so that it can cope with the load from bearings, seals and impellers.
Impeller. One of the most important elements of a water pump, on which the performance of the pump depends. It comes in cast iron, other metal and plastic. The cast iron part is durable, but heavy and has thick blades, so its efficiency is inferior to others. Metal is lighter and more efficient, but is susceptible to corrosion. Plastic is the lightest material. Such an impeller is productive, but over time, due to contrasting temperatures, it becomes fragile and begins to slip.
The impeller on the back side of the impeller relieves the shaft-housing seal. Not available on all models, but it helps to increase the efficiency of the pump and increase its service life.
Top 2. TZA POWERFULL
Rating (2021): 4.80
Best Performance This model is equipped with an 8-blade thermoplastic impeller. The increased height of the blades creates a larger area for heat removal from the motor.
- Characteristics
Average price, rub.: 1252
- Country Russia
- Impeller: thermoplastic material
This model was produced at the Tolyatti plant, which since its founding has been supplying the needs of the AvtoVAZ conveyor. The design features and imported components of the water pump made it possible to increase its service life and productivity. There is a Slovak bearing with improved load-carrying characteristics and an Italian cassette seal. The upgraded 8-blade impeller is made of thermoplastic and has increased blade height. This made it possible to expand the working area and more efficiently remove heat from the engine. The pump shows high wear resistance, but may still begin to play towards the end of its life.
Advantages and disadvantages
- High performance
- Wear resistance
- High quality build
- May loosen over time
See also:
- 12 best batteries for VAZ
Should I change antifreeze after replacing the pump?
A question for those who want to save money everywhere and on everything. If I answer this briefly, I can confidently say that yes, the coolant needs to be changed. Please also pay attention to the question regarding mixing antifreeze in the cooling system. It will be useful and important to know all the nuances.
If we talk about the necessity of replacement, then everything is extremely simple. To begin with, in the vast majority of cases it is impossible to replace and remove the pump without first draining the antifreeze from the system. But some people want to save money; they drain the coolant into a clean container, install a new pump, and then pour the old antifreeze back in.
A big mistake, since any water pumps for cooling systems are characterized by increased demands on the quality and purity of the liquid. Therefore, you should absolutely not use previously drained antifreeze, even if you just recently changed it, even before the pump failed. Do not attempt to filter or strain the coolant. Just buy a new can of quality antifreeze that is suitable for your car and fill it up. There simply cannot be any other options. Remember this. Otherwise, you will soon have to spend money on a new pump again.
To ensure that the water pump lasts as long and reliably as possible, make it a rule to use only high-quality compounds. As you remember, 90% of pump failures are related precisely to the quality of the coolant used. I think it will not be difficult to draw the appropriate conclusions.
How to determine the need to replace your pump
Replacing the Priora water pump. Warning! Do not turn the crankshaft or camshaft after the camshaft drive belt has been removed, otherwise the piston may hit the valves. Wear of the pump bearing (indicated by increased noise during operation) and leakage of coolant from the pump are the main defects of the water pump.
As a rule, repairing the water pump does not lead to the desired result, so it is recommended to replace the pump assembly. Replacing the pump is a procedure for performing actions that you can do yourself.
Description
STEP # | |
1 | You need to disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery. |
2 | Next, you should drain the coolant. |
3 | Then the piston of the first cylinder is set to the top dead center position. |
4 | Then the tension roller is removed. |
5 | The camshaft toothed pulley is removed behind the tension roller. |
6 | It is necessary to unscrew the 4 bolts and the fastening nut and start removing the rear cover of the camshaft drive belt. |
7 | Insert a screwdriver into the groove, carefully separate the pump from the block and remove it. |
8 | Then you need to remove the gasket from the pump. If it is damaged, it needs to be replaced. |
9 | Then, if the coolant leaks through the drain hole, then you need to replace the water pump (if the seal is damaged). |
10 | If the pump shaft exhibits noticeable axial play (or the bearing is damaged), replacement is also required. |
11 | If chips, cracks, or chipping are found on the toothed pulley, impeller and pump housing, it is also replaced. |
12 | You need to check the tightness of the pump bearing locking screw. The screw must be tightened if necessary. |
13 | Next, you need to install the pump in the reverse order of removal. In this case, the number on the part must be directed upward. |
14 | And finally, you need to install the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. |
Water pump Luzar
In this case, the camshaft pulley must be installed with the protruding part of the hub facing the engine. Then you need to check the alignment of the top dead center marks on the rear drive belt cover and the camshaft pulley. The last step is to adjust the tension of the camshaft drive belt, and only after that add coolant.
Of course, the TZA pump is in greater demand than the Luzar and is considered more reliable and of higher quality. The main cause of belt breakage is usually considered to be the pump, but the catch may lie elsewhere. The reason may be the coolant, which is poured at the factory of poor quality, and after 20-25 thousand mileage it almost loses its ability to lubricate the pump seal.
A water pump can fail for two main reasons - wear of the bearing or oil seal. When the bearing wears out, a distinct hum will be heard, which is a sign that the bearing is humming and the pump needs to be replaced. If a pump with a faulty bearing is not replaced in time, this can lead to it jamming.
The second reason for pump malfunction is leakage from under the seal. If you notice that your antifreeze or antifreeze has begun to run out, one of the reasons is precisely the pump. Check for fluid leaks in the area where the pump is located.
If so, the pump is most likely leaking. In this case, operating the car is not advisable, but is possible provided that you have to constantly add coolant.
Another sign of a pump malfunction is a worn timing belt. If the bearing is broken, the pump may “walk” slightly, which will cause the belt to eat up, and as a result, the timing belt may break and then you will have to deal with the capital of the motor, since the valves will bend.
When choosing a pump, be sure to purchase one that is suitable for your motor. A pump for a 16 valve engine is not suitable for an 8 valve engine. The difference in replacing the water pump is that on an 8 valve engine there is 1 pulley, and on a 16 valve engine there are 2 pulleys. . By the way, from this article you can learn how to replace the fuel pump on a Lada Priora.
Before you begin removing the pump, you will need to drain the coolant. We find the drain plug, substitute a container with a volume of about 4 liters and drain.
After draining the liquid, remove the upper decorative cover, the alternator belt, and then the front timing cover, it consists of two parts.
Now you need to set the timing marks so that during assembly you do not make a mistake with the ignition setting.
Next, unscrew the pulleys. To prevent the pulley from turning, engage 5th gear and press the brake. Now the pulley will be motionless, you can safely unscrew it. Unscrew the pulley bolts using a 17mm spanner.
If you have a car with air conditioning, you need to use a 13 mm socket wrench to unscrew the bracket for the generator belt tensioner pulley and air conditioner with steering wheel.
The next step is to remove the crankshaft pulley. To do this, remove the right front wheel and mudguards. Next, engage 5th gear again and press the brake. The pulley will be fixed and can be safely unscrewed. Remove the pulley and timing belt.
Next, unscrew the 6 bolts securing the cover and then carefully remove it from the engine.
We unscrew the 6 bolts securing the pump, carefully pry it up with a screwdriver and pull it out. When installing a new pump, it is necessary to coat the gasket with a thin layer of sealant and screw the pump into place. Next, we reassemble in the reverse order, taking into account the timing marks.
The best timing drive and pump
The thorny path to replacing the timing belt and rollers has been completed, along with the water pump (coolant pump). It became thorny, firstly, due to the fact that for two years or 25 thousand kilometers I drove with a belt installed by the previous owner, which involuntarily destroyed the stereotype that car salesmen can no longer be trusted. He was a normal guy, he said to replace it in the spring, I replaced it two days later... The old belt, by the way, proudly demonstrated by the master (“Christina”), at the time of replacement, turned out to be cracked at least one of the teeth. The pump has also suffered over the past years - the play was no less proudly demonstrated, and upon leaving the service center I personally noted a decrease in the noise level from under the hood. The replacement of the latter was dictated more by the expediency of combining work than by real suspicions of an imminent end. The 124th engine does not bend the valves when the belt breaks, it was possible not to worry, but... perfectionism is a serious disease.
After all, thorniness is also due to the specifics of the choice of spare parts. I mean it's hard. And this is what was replaced (price + delivery cost): - INA timing drive kit
(Slovakia) - 1390+600=2000 rub.
// alsport.ru According to the website “ Used in motorsport.
Improved timing belt design from INA. Instead of neoprene, enriched nitrile is used, because When heated, neoprene becomes rigid and loses its elasticity. "
— coolant pump TZA Sport
(Togliatti) - 503+325=828 rub.
//nbklada.ru “ Produced as a modernization of the pump 21120-1307010-75
(only this is presented in Virazh, and at a price of 730 rubles - note theo51ab)
for 16-valve internal combustion engines of Kalina cars and other front-wheel drive cars "VAZ".
Design features: — New 8-blade impeller 21118 with a modified profile and direction of the blades, productivity above 170 l/min for use in internal combustion engines operating with increased loads; — Cassette type oil seal made in Italy; — Bearing made in Slovakia. This allowed: - to increase pump productivity by 20-40%; — improve the operation of the internal combustion engine cooling system; — improve the operation of the vehicle’s interior heating system; — increase the working life of the pump by 40%.
«.
Ordered through the specified official dealer of TZA products, in confirmation of which a certificate was presented during the correspondence. And don’t let anyone be confused by the fact that spare parts catalogs here are side by side with a recipe for moonshine—these speculators were discovered via a link from the manufacturer’s website. In addition to the pump itself, in a clapper film with a rubber-cork gasket, the packaging even contained a faceted glass, a product passport with the batch number and the packer’s mark!
The pump change was also marked by a replacement of the coolant - there is no need to skimp on antifreeze after last year's problems with antifreeze - AGA Z42 antifreeze
(10 liters of potion);
SCT fuel filter
(unfortunately there was no Knecht Mahle);
10W40 MotorGold oil
(5 liter canister, manufactured in 2012 - not only can this oil be bought in only two stores in the city, but also their 12th year can be considered a fresh batch...)
with a Knecht Mahle filter
;
oil seal
closest to the headlights due to detected fogging (Balakovo, FPM tires). Total: 960+130+(1100+130)+100=2420 rub. The total cost of the work was 1900 rubles. Some expensive update came out(
Algorithm for replacing a VAZ Priora pump 16 valves
First of all, we need to disconnect the terminal from the battery in order to carry out the entire operation without any consequences. Then remove the crankcase protection. To do this, you need to unscrew the bolts and hexagons. Nearby is a plastic shield for the right fender liner.
Draining the antifreeze
The next step is to drain the antifreeze from the block itself. Or unscrew the starter mounts and move it aside, then drain the antifreeze.
Removing the timing belt cover
Next is the plastic cover, which comes off quite easily, just pull it up. You will now see the belt housing that turns the crankshaft. You unscrew it with 30mm Torxes. But due to the fact that the space is limited in size, you will have to use a corner. The casing consists of two parts, which can be removed separately and without any difficulty.
We place marks on the shafts
After this, we set the piston of the first cylinder, where the TDC-1 mark will be. This is the compression stroke. Then look closely and you will see a mark in the form of a dot on the crankshaft. You need to align it with the low tide mark, which is located near the oil pump. But don't forget about the camshaft. Align its marks with the marks that are located on the belt casing itself.
Removing the timing belt
After setting the marks, you can remove the belt. To do this, relax the rollers and carefully remove the belt so as not to tear or stretch it. The videos will also need to be removed. At this stage of the process you will have to remove the cast iron casting, otherwise you will not be able to remove the casing. After this, remove the part that was inside the plastic casing. It is held in place by five bolts.
Removing and installing a new pump
And now, finally, we can begin to directly replace the pump. To do this, use a hexagon to unscrew the bolts and begin to gently rock the pump in different directions. When it loosens, remove it. Lubricate all parts immediately with oil. Check the gaskets.
Reassembly requires care and precision. Install everything in reverse order and be sure to ensure the correct alignment of the marks. After that, install the belt. Then rotate the crankshaft twice. If everything went well, then we put the remaining parts in place.
Sources
- https://7road.ru/drugoe/pompa-priora-luzar.html
- https://AvtoStandart-m24.ru/avtomobili-drugoe/pompa-na-prioru-kakaya-luchshe.html
- https://AvtoSotka.ru/motor/horoshaya-pompa-na-prioru-16-klapanov.html
- https://diacarta.ru/pompa-na-prioru-16-klapanov-kakaya-luchshe/
- https://akki-carsh.ru/dvigatel/kak-smazat-pompu-na-priore.html
- https://Vaz-Russia.com/vse-ob/top-7-luchshih-pomp-dlya-vaz.html
- https://pts.ru/kakaya-pompa-luchshe-dlya-priory-16-klapannoy/
- https://MarkaKachestva.ru/rating-of/5901-luchshie-pompy-dlja-lady-priora-rejting.html
- https://GlKey.ru/avto-lada-drugoe/pompa-na-prioru-16-klapanov-cena.html
- https://ventlife.ru/pompa-priora-16-klapanov-s-konditsionerom-kakaya-luchshe/
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