Belmag reviews. Real reviews of spare parts - all reviews are negative at first

What you need to know about replacing a ball joint

More details in the material: diagnostics and replacement of the ball joint on Renault Logan.
According to the regulations, the lever assembly must be changed. And if you are going to replace only the support, it is better to remember the following: as soon as the lever is touched with a hammer, it is no longer a lever and must be replaced. Regardless of what exactly will be replaced, try to save two parts:

A plastic cover installed under the fist (see photo);
Lock washer. It’s good when such washers come with a new support.

The appearance of each part is shown below.

Actually, the pads do not have a separate article number. You can’t buy them, and without them, dirt from your fist will fall onto the support boot.

The ball joints need to be replaced only on both sides together. This situation occurs when a knocking or squeaking sound is heard in the front suspension on only one side, and the temptation to replace only one ball joint is very great!

Normal set of ball joints.

I’ve been driving cars for a long time, there were both ours and foreign cars, I repaired all of them myself, starting from the suspension and ending with the engine. I only went to the service center twice with my first car. It was seven. At first, dips appeared and started to twitch, I went and cleaned the carb, then it started to shake, I went and set a gap on the ignition contacts. This ended my trips to the car service and I decided to do everything myself, with the exception of the glass. It’s a breech to the best of the best to see a specialist, to the same to rend out the Plokhoy gearmes, well, but the same, it is a skeleton when it has no time.

Not long ago we bought a Priora hatch, a fire car. I especially like the simplicity of it. Omitting all sorts of sensors and other electronics, of which there are not many. There are, of course, shortcomings, and very annoying ones. One fine day I noticed that the hydraulics began to rattle, but I didn’t pay any attention to it. I drove a little, I was even upset about the fact that I had just picked up the car and already had to go into the engine and change something. I stopped, opened the hood, but it was early in the morning, still dark, I looked and couldn’t understand anything, everything seemed to be normal. And then he looked closer and gasped, everything was covered in oil! And where do you think it comes from? Out of my head! The plug fell out, which jams the camshaft from the side of the box... It was some kind of horror, I could never expect such a setup from my dear auto industry. But nothing, I got to the garage, fortunately I wasn’t far away, I got on the bus, bought two plugs, then made a special one in the garage. plates, and put plugs on the sealant, tightening them with plates, so that this would never happen again. After this incident, the camshafts began to rumble a little more strongly, apparently some microns of wear still appeared. Well, in general, the car is peppy, responds well to gas, blows up when necessary, eats a little. I feed her 92 mostly, but sometimes I splash 95. I refuel exclusively either at Gazprom or Rosneft, in the worst case, KNP.

So, I noticed that when getting into the car or when getting out of it, clicks began to be heard, my little experience told me that most likely these were ball joints. At least I decided to start with them. BELMAG ball joints , and at the same time decided to write a review on Airek about this. I say right away that I do not pretend to be the truth, and I do repairs as my soul tells me. These are the ball ones. In the box of the Magnitogorsk product everything is fine: two balls and mounting bolts with nuts.

To begin with, I decided to add lubricant to them, you never know, in case it’s not there, we can have everything.
With a slight movement of the screwdriver we pick up the green ring, it is made of spring steel and at least I was not able to break it. The ring just needs to be pulled back and it will come out on its own slowly. As it turned out, there was enough lubricant there, but I wanted to add more. I don’t know whether I was right or not, but I added CV joint . I don't think it can get any worse.
When assembling, the main thing is not to rush and not to pierce the boot with the retaining ring. I succeeded without any sacrifices. I did the same with the second ball.
Nothing more complicated. You need a key for 17.19, a hammer, a mounting tool and a puller.
Using a 17 key, loosen the ball fastening bolts. In general, the book says that these bolts can become stuck over time and there is a possibility of unscrewing the head of one of them. I’ve never had this happen before, but just in case I act carefully)
Using a 19 wrench I loosen the nut on the hinge pin . Here I had to tap a little with a hammer
We can say that half the work is already done. All that remains is to remove the wheel and unscrew the ball completely. I use a universal puller, it has served me faithfully for many years, and the thing I like about it is that it fits all cars)
Personally, it was convenient for me to turn the wheel to the right when replacing the ball on the left side and vice versa on the right
Naturally, it is not so easy to separate the hub from the lower lever; for this you will have to work hard with the installation . But again, until I turned the wheel, nothing worked for me. Now it’s a matter of technology, so to speak, I’m installing a new one in place of the old one. Naturally, I remove old grease and dirt. Immediately I put the nut on the ball pin
Now it’s the finish line, you need to get two bolts into the hub, it’s not that easy. Here it is better to put the wheel straight. Again, I lubricated the bolts that are screwed into the hub with oil just in case, otherwise they might actually boil). The most interesting thing is that the hub flatly refuses to approach the required distance to the ball. In order to pull them off, I had to try very hard, and then I used two screwdrivers. The most difficult thing to do is to tighten the first bolt, but the second one is much easier to tighten if you slightly press the ball away from the hub
Please note that these BELMAG balls have the ability to hold the pin with a hex wrench, this is very convenient in cases where the nut is screwed tightly onto the pin and it begins to turn to be.
Well, that’s all, all that remains is to tighten everything and do the same on the other side. On the front-wheel drive family, of course, the fact that there is only one ball per wheel is very convenient.
There is one more annoying fact in Priora, this is the stick system. I had a 99, and on it the belt due to a broken stud securing the tension roller. I had to put a repair pin at the end, I cut the thread for about 30 minutes) So with the Priora, such an incident with the belt will be expensive, this is probably any owner of this machine knows tires. Some even install piston engines from 12. But this will not be the same, the loss in fillies seems to me to be noticeable, which is why I am a supporter of periodic inspections of the timing belt . I think looking at it once a month is not annoying, especially since it is not necessary to have a garage for this. In the cold, of course, I wouldn’t go there without a garage. And so I decided to make sure that there was no mechanical damage to the belt in order to drive with a calm soul and conscience. I remove the decorative trim on the engine. The most unpleasant thing here, of course, is that you need to pull off the tension roller of the generator belt, but it doesn’t matter, it’s a minute.
Then I unscrew the bolts securing the protective casing, there are about 5 of them, personally, I have half of them with a 10 key, half with an asterisk. When inspecting, I pay attention to the condition of the belt, there are no abrasions or tatters, this is pleasing. Personally, I turn the camshaft, which is closer to the radiator, with the head at 17 and inspect the self-tensioning roller. If everything is in order with it, it should curl up and at the same time move towards the rear of the car. I now have a belt and GATES rollers , I heard that the indicator of the beginning of the end is the release of grease on the auxiliary roller, I also pay attention to this.
Well, it seems like no deviations have been identified, you can continue to drive safely. Everything is put back together in reverse order. The only thing you need to do is tighten the generator , but this doesn’t require much work.
Looking ahead, I’ll say that the clicks disappeared, which means my thought about the ball joints was correct. If I have the opportunity, I’ll create another photo report.

The product is universal, and just like many VAZ products will fit many front-wheel drive cars: 2108-21099, 2110-2112, 2113-2115, 1111, 1117-1118, 2170, 2190.

Choosing the best brand

Everyone knows what ball joints were installed on Renault Logan from the factory. We are talking about two brands - TRW and Lemforder. Each is based in Germany, but many Lemforder factories are located in Romania.

Read more in the material: which ball joint is better for Renault Logan.

For part 401604793R you can find an analogue:

TRW JBJ721;
Lemforder 29469 01 or 37809 01.

Apparently, the author of the question bought the following part - JBJ721. It is not suitable as a replacement for supports 401602523R.

Which ball joints are better - asam or sasic?

At PartReview in December 2022, SASIC ball joints were overall better than Asam.

SASIC received a PR score of 58 out of 100,
a Asam were able to score 75 points.
SASIC took 20th place in the ranking of the best manufacturers,
a Asam ranked 21st.
Asam's average review score (3.9) is higher than SASIC's (3.3).
Asam ball joints have better property ratings than SASIC:
- Lubrication - owners believe that SASIC has this property better than Asam.
Anther - from reviews it is clear that this property is preferable for SASIC than for Asam.

The best synthetic gear oils

Mobil Mobilube 1 SHC, viscosity grade 75W-90

Mobil Mobilube 1 SHC is a fully synthetic gear oil based on high-quality synthesized substances and a wide range of additives. Designed for high loads, so it is ideally suited for SUVs, trucks, construction and agricultural equipment, and tractors. The lubricant has excellent antioxidant properties, so the presence of a large number of additional additives does not have a negative effect on the components and parts of the gearbox. It is possible to work in conditions of extremely low or extremely high temperatures, so Mobil Mobilube 1 SHC is perfect not only for central Russia, but also for the south and colder regions. Has operational class GL-5 and standard 75W90.

The average cost of a liter canister of Mobil Mobilube 1 SHC in domestic stores is 900 rubles, which is quite inexpensive for an oil of this level.

Mobil Mobilube 1 SHC, viscosity grade 75W-90

MANNOL "Extra Getriebeoel", 75W-90, synthetic

MANNOL "Extra Getriebeoel" is a universal fully synthetic oil intended for gearboxes, differentials, and rear axles. Operational class – GL-5, standard – 75W90. It has the entire necessary set of additives that make the operation of lubricated parts and components of the car even more efficient, and also protect them from oxidation. Has good reviews from drivers.

MANNOL "Extra Getriebeoel", 75W-90, synthetic

Manual transmission Hyundai / KIA “MTF GL4”, viscosity class 75W90

Hyundai / KIA “MTF GL4” is a high-quality oil from South Korea, designed for use in cars manufactured in this country, as well as in other passenger cars. Not recommended for use in trucks, special and agricultural machinery. Operational class – GL-5, standard – 75W90. Fully synthetic, equipped with all necessary additives.

Manual transmission Hyundai / KIA “MTF GL4”, viscosity class 75W90

LIQUI MOLY Hochleistungs-Getriebeoil 75W-90, synthetic

LIQUI MOLY Hochleistungs-Getriebeoil is a synthetic gear oil from a German company, having a performance class of GL-5 and a standard of 75W90. Recommended for use in passenger cars. Made exclusively from synthesized substances and has the necessary additives.

LIQUI MOLY Hochleistungs-Getriebeoil 75W-90, synthetic

Balls of different types for Logan

Most likely, we are not talking about any fake. It’s just that since June 2021, Renault has been using a new type of ball joints. The new supports have pins with lateral rather than circular grooves. The “old” and “new” options can be seen in the photo.

The article numbers for different parts will also be different. The “old” sample is 401604793R, and for the “new” one, other numbers were invented - 401602523R. Don’t make mistakes when choosing analogues.

Currently reading: Renault Logan front suspension | Spare parts for foreign and domestic cars. Catalogs, prices, buy spare parts | Online store of auto parts and auto products YULSUN (YULSUN)

It is not a fact that if a car was produced after June 2021, then “new” supports are installed on it. Details can only be found out by knocking the support out of the fist.

How to choose automotive gear oil?

When choosing gear oil, you need to pay attention to its technical characteristics. Below are the main ones.

Type . There are three types of lubricants: mineral, synthetic and semi-synthetic. The former are oily substances obtained during the distillation of oil or its selective purification. The latter are obtained by carrying out organic reactions. The substances involved in such reactions, in most cases, are also products of oil production, but undergo deeper processing. Finally, the third type is a mixture of mineral and synthetic lubricant in one proportion or another. Mineral products are cheaper, but work less effectively. Synthetic is two to three times more expensive, but shows better results. Semi-synthetic is somewhere in between these two options, both in efficiency and price.
Viscosity _ It is believed that the higher the viscosity of a substance, the better glide it provides under heavy loads. Viscous lubricants are most suitable for high-performance vehicles. For machines of medium and low power, products of medium and low viscosity are suitable.
Operating temperatures . Each lubricant has a certain temperature range at which it can normally perform its functions. If the ambient temperature becomes too low (for example, in frost), the substance will become thicker and the operation of the gearbox will be disrupted. In hot weather, on the contrary, it liquefies too much. These parameters must be taken into account when choosing. For central Russia, a lubricant with an operating temperature range from – 45 to + 35 degrees Celsius is suitable. The operating temperatures will be reported by the SAE standard index. It also contains information about viscosity. The higher the index, the higher the viscosity and the greater the operating temperature range.
Availability of additives . A lubricant may include additional chemical compounds that increase its physical characteristics (improves gliding, increases the operating temperature range). However, it is believed that additives react with the metal from which the parts and components of the gearbox are made, which ultimately negatively affects it and shortens its service life. Whether it is worth taking a product with additives and what to sacrifice is up to you. The API standard speaks about the mass fraction of additives. The most common oils are GL4 and GL5 standards.
Manufacturer . It is quite natural that products from famous brands will be much more expensive than lubricants from lesser-known manufacturers. At the same time, the high cost does not provide any guarantee that its quality will be higher. Therefore, first of all, when purchasing, you should pay attention not to the manufacturer, but to the technical characteristics.
Price . As in many other situations, the best choice in this case would be a product in the mid-price category. It won’t put a big dent in your wallet and will at the same time provide the required level of quality and have quite acceptable technical characteristics.

Electronic money

Moneta.Ru To make payments using the Moneta.Ru payment system, you need to have a wallet, which can be registered on the system’s website. Methods for replenishing your wallet can be found on the Moneta.Ru website in the “How to top up” section. Payments are credited through Moneta.Ru instantly. WebMoney To make a payment, you must be registered in the WebMoney Transfer system. WMR title units are accepted for payment, money is credited instantly. Yandex.Money To make a payment using the Yandex.Money service, you need to have a wallet registered on the payment system website. Payments are credited through the Yandex.Money payment system instantly. QIWI Wallet Select QIWI Wallet as payment and enter your cell phone number. Pay the automatically created invoice on the payment system website. If you do not have a QIWI Wallet, you need to register it on the service website or in any of the QIWI Wallet applications.

Sidem silent blocks reviews

Misha. Volvo S80 car, during diagnostics they were sentenced to replace the silent blocks of the rear, front arm and ball joints. I took all the parts from the company Sidem, about which I have the most pleasant impressions, and has never let me down with a defect. I have already driven 12 thousand km, I recommend it for installation.

Nikita. Geely Emgrand. Unfortunately already at 30 thousand km. mileage, the silent blocks on my Chinese car were destined to last a long time. I replaced the front horizontal silents with Sidem 845620, and the rear (vertical) Silents with Sidem 845621. On the latter after 15 thousand km. During the inspection, cracks were discovered, I decided to replace them with ASHIKA GOM-239, then they were completely torn to pieces after 3 thousand km. But the front horizontal 845620 from Sidem has currently covered 40 thousand km. I checked their condition and they look like new.

Ivan. Volkswagen Touareg. My original silent blocks lasted for 140 thousand km. mileage and 5 years. In the end, they sentenced me to replace them, after reading the reviews I decided to change them to Sidem. A very attractive price, many people put them on Tuaregs and are happy. For 12 pieces I spent 3,500 rubles, not counting the work of pressing and camber.

Ball sidem reviews

Igor. I took a Sidem ball from a KIA Ceed, part number 81182. It fit without any problems, although the seller dissuaded me from buying it, the thing is that previously this ball in old batches did not fit our KIA Sid, it did not screw in completely. They fixed this problem, you can safely buy, the old parts are no longer on sale.

Radik. I took a Sidem ball in a VAZ 2114, after installation I didn’t drive it that much, so I’ll describe the general picture; you can feel the quality by the visual and tactile sensation. Black metal and a soft boot, the ball rotates tightly, a sufficient amount of lubricant was put inside, I had a part from Ruville on hand for comparison, there was half as much of it.

Currently reading: Volume of oils and liquids for Renault Logan Stepway filling station | Car breakdowns and advantages

Anton. The ball joint from Sidem in Renault Logan only lasted for 25 thousand km, it’s a shame, I was counting on more, I bought it based on a friend who already had it for more than 40 thousand km. on a similar car.

Ilya. The suspension of my Chevrolet Aveo when the mileage reaches 100 thousand km. It started knocking and grinding, although this manifested itself when driving over bumps and speed bumps. I went with a friend to see what had happened, it turned out that the left ball joint had died, the right one was soon to follow (the boot was torn).

I purchased new balls from Sidem, they came with the necessary fasteners. The details themselves inspired confidence, unlike CTR, which was a little cheaper. I installed it myself; I actually had to drill out the factory rivets and knock out the old ball joint (there was no puller). The new one was installed without any problems, the noise completely disappeared, I'm happy.

How to distinguish a fake?

The company has well established itself as a manufacturer of equipment. Therefore, it is important to remember: there are a large number of fakes on the market. It is not so easy to distinguish them. Nevertheless, there are a number of signs that characterize a fake:

there is no special protective hologram on the packaging;
The quality of the cardboard box is low, it is falling apart at the seams, there is no polyethylene on the support itself;
the kit is not complete - there are no bolts for installation, there are no other components;
low cost – the price in the store cannot be less than that stated on the company’s official website.

Using counterfeit products can lead to serious problems. In 100% of cases, the resource of parts is an order of magnitude less. A breakdown while driving can lead to a serious accident. It is advisable to carefully read the signs of counterfeit. This will avoid serious troubles in the future.

Sidem spare parts reviews, country of origin, official website

One of the European leaders in the production of suspension and steering components

Sidem is one of the largest Belgian companies engaged in the production of components for motor vehicles. The company has received a number of certificates: ISO TS 16949, OHSAS 18001, and ISO 9001. The company's products are represented in 80 countries.

In total, Sidem produces about 5 thousand types of auto parts. Among them: silent blocks, ball joints, suspension arms, tie rods, bushings, tie rod ends. Part of the production (about 10%) goes directly to the conveyors of world-famous companies: Scania, RVI, Mercedes-Benz, Iveco, Volvo and DAF. Today, these spare parts are produced in factories in Hungary and Romania, while only a logistics center is located in Belgium.

Car enthusiasts highly value Sidem chassis parts. It is important to note here that they belong to the budget segment, which means they cannot be compared with original components. The quality of silent blocks, supports and tips from Sidem can be compared with the quality of the same products from Delhi and Moog, which cost a little more. This is an excellent alternative to inexpensive spare parts from packers and downstream manufacturers from Asian countries. Interestingly, the products of the Belgian company are not counterfeited.

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