In general, another sore prior. In the summer everything was still fine, but with the onset of cold weather the wipers began to live their own lives, that is, I turned them on and off they went - they clean the glass until they want to stop, and if they stop, they will definitely stop in the middle of the glass. I had to flip the switch a lot and every 20-30 times they would stop in the right place. Or if you turn on the wipers and turn off the ignition, they continue to work for an indefinite period of time. Having studied the articles on this subject, there were two options:
1. Replacing the regulator relay which is located under the steering wheel2. Replacing wiper motor lubrication
In general, I changed both relays, but this did not fix my problem:
It was decided to remove the motor and trapeze to change the lubricant. I used this video as a tutorial on how to unscrew it all:
On my own behalf I would like to add that the trapezoid with the motor cannot be removed easily and simply
To get them you can’t do without a spell and a huge amount of swearing. Even in the video, the wipers are in their standard position, but I read a lot where the wipers are turned on and left in the upper position (vertically) by turning off the ignition, which is what I actually did.
In general, after 5-6 times I still got it right and my joy knew no bounds.
And one more thing: before putting the wipers in place, turn on the ignition and let the engine idle, this way it will make a full swing and get into its working position and you can put the wipers not vertically, but horizontally. Regarding removal and installation, that seems to be all, now about the motor itself and the trapezoid:
In general, we disassemble the motor and see in front of us 3 gears and a lubricant in color and consistency similar to frozen boiled condensed milk.
These 3 gears basically do not hold anything and they can be easily pulled out, the main thing is to remember where each one was. Next, using a rag and WD-40 (whatever was on hand), we clean all this mess, especially from the contacts. We fill in new grease and screw everything back. And regarding the trapezoid there is even less to do, we just rivet these places and lubricate the hinges
Why do VAZ 2110 fuses burn?
By the way, somewhere during the drive I saw that someone had filled in transmission oil instead of lubricant and was trying to do the same thing. I filled it in, tightened it and put it aside to check whether the same oil would leak. As a result, while I was working on the trapezoid, the oil from the motor still ran in the contact area, so I had to drain it and fill the motor with CV joint lubricant.
In general, I spent about 4 hours in the garage, if not more. I am very pleased with the result.
Priora owners note two drawbacks of the windshield cleaning system: slow operation of the wipers and 4 working strokes of the wipers when the washer is turned on, when two would be enough. The article discusses the reasons for these shortcomings and provides ways to solve them by modifying the Priora windshield wiper.
Why windshield wipers do not work well: reasons and solutions
If you notice that the washers on your car are not working well, you need to immediately find out the cause of this problem. Often this is:
- lack of lubrication;
- increasing the resistance to movement of brushes in the hinges;
- collector contamination.
Everything can be solved if you approach the procedure correctly. In the first case, it is necessary to choose a solution as a lubricant that does not thicken at high temperatures. If the lubricant does not help, you will have to use a modification. Lada Priora windshield wipers consist of many connections and contacts that create additional resistance, as a result of which the motor power decreases. You can minimize current loss using the following tools:
- 5-pin connector;
- three 5-pin relays with socket;
- wires 25 mm;
- round terminals.
A block of three relays must be installed in the gap in the wiper motor connector without touching the standard wiring. It is advisable to close the assembled structure in a box so that dirt and dust do not get inside.
As a result of this procedure, the windshield wipers will work much faster.
An increase in resistance to brush movement occurs due to the accumulation of dirt in the plastic bushings and the appearance of rust on the hinges. This problem can be resolved by removing the drive mechanism. If the bushings are too worn, they need to be replaced. To do this, you need to contact a service salon, where specialists will quickly and efficiently replace this part. However, before removing the mechanism, it is better to try spraying the hinges with Unisma lubricant and wait a few minutes. After this, you need to turn on the wipers and check whether they work better. The drive will have to be removed in any case in order to provide the hinges with lubrication.
The last problem can be solved by sanding the commutator with sandpaper. It is very rare, but it still happens that the wipers do not work well due to a decrease in the armature rotation speed. In this case, it is enough to connect the electric motor of the cleaners to the battery. If this does not help, the electric motor will have to be replaced.
In order for the washers to always work properly, they need to be looked after, especially in winter.
- In cold weather, it is necessary that the windshield washer fluid be winter, and not summer, as is the case with many car enthusiasts.
- If there is a lot of snow on the glass, it is advisable to remove it yourself and only then turn on the wipers.
- Also important are the washer levers, which must be in good condition. If deformed, they will not provide high-quality glass cleaning.
In general, if you take care of your windshield wipers and repair them promptly, they will last a long time and work properly. There is no need to change them often, except in the event of a serious breakdown, when repairs alone are not enough. When choosing, you should give preference to products from well-known manufacturers, which guarantee a long service life and high-quality cleaning of car windows.
Recommendations
Comments 18
Otherwise, where you put the tape is called a windshield frill, and the tape won’t help there. Buy a frill from Priora 2, they made a more reliable design, it is attached to the bottom of the glass and thus fits tightly and does not warp from the sun.
It’s a waste of time to lubricate it with lithol, in winter you’ll realize your mistake)
Anti-friction multi-purpose waterproof lubricant based on mineral oil, lithium soap and a highly effective additive package. It is used in rolling and sliding bearings of all types, hinges, gears and other transmissions; on friction surfaces of wheeled and tracked vehicles; in industrial mechanisms, electrical machines, etc. Operable at temperatures from -40 to +120 0C, remains operational for a short time at temperatures up to +130 0C. has high colloidal, chemical and mechanical stability withstands exposure to water well retains elasticity and lubricity at high and low temperatures provides excellent protection of lubricated parts, even when used in heavily worn friction pairs firmly held on lubricated surfaces prevents the development of all main types of wear
I can take a photo of the tube for you right now. this is all bullshit, in winter at minus 15 the wipers will move so slowly that you will be able to sleep between sweeps
Haha)) about sleeping between swings a lot))
It’s a waste of time to lubricate it with lithol, in winter you’ll realize your mistake)
I bought Lithol 24 Gazprom Neft, it should be normal, and our winters in the south are warm)) in our city, 60-70 percent of the winter they drive on an all-season Kama Euro))))
I did this a year and a half ago, I regret it every cold morning))
maybe you stuffed a lot of it in there? I cleaned it out, there was a lot of it there, and on the contacts too, so maybe because of the contacts it’s also causing the noise and clunking because of this, I think
who the hell knows, that was 1.5 years ago. but I’m not in a hurry yet, I need to change the heater radiator, clutch cable and vacuum, and at the same time I’ll take a look at the trapeze. I'm looking forward to warm weather and the weekend)
It’s already warm here, tell me, the temperature of the car is constantly kept at 90-100 degrees, is this normal?
depends on the thermostat, more precisely on the thermoelement, I know that there are 84. Personally, my operating temperature is 85 degrees. if this bothers you, then try changing the antifreeze if you haven’t changed it for a long time
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What to do if the wipers on a Priora are slow
The performance of wipers depends on many factors. How to check the performance of windshield wipers? An aspect of proper operation is the ratio of timing to the number of strokes of the wiper blades.
If the principle of operation of the device is not violated, then the number of progressive double strokes must be at least 35, which, in turn, is prescribed in the rules of traffic malfunctions. If the wipers work slowly on a Priora, it is necessary to diagnose and eliminate the corresponding malfunction.
Improper use of windshield wipers in winter is one of the reasons for slow operation
A common cause of the windshield wipers working slowly on a Priora may be a malfunction of the motor, and in particular the brushes located in it.
There are quite a few reasons for this malfunction, but it is the incorrect use of windshield wipers in winter that can burn the blades. This happens as a result of strong resistance, namely when the windshield wipers are frozen to the windshield.
The situation with the intensity of wiper operation improves as the car engine warms up. If the cause of the breakdown is related precisely to this, then, regardless of the active operating position, the windshield wipers (1st or 2nd) will slowly creep up. In the opposite direction (backward) - a little faster. A problem of this kind can only be solved by replacing the device.
How to get rid of a loose wiper blade?
The phenomenon of “shifting” indicates the reason for the destabilization of the wiper operation from a theoretical perspective. What in practice? What are the symptoms of an impending wiper problem?
For example, here is an elementary problem. The car is fresh, the brushes are new, but they clean with gaps in the middle, and even bounce in places. Let's add here several thousand spent on alternative elastic bands. In the end, the result is the same: the quality of cleaning remains at a depressing level, and the money is wasted.
Meanwhile, the solution to this issue is, in principle, possible without the ruble. It is enough to check the angle of contact of the leash to the glass. It's easy to do this:
- Remove the brush.
- Place the leash on the glass.
- Make sure that the contact point between the adapter and the lead is pressed against the glass with the center.
If the eye sees a deviation from the norm, then the geometry is corrected with an ordinary flat-head screwdriver. It is advisable to use a more powerful tool, since the material of the leash is difficult to deform. It is possible that the straightened foot may again take its previous shape. It is for these reasons that it is recommended to repeat the procedure after about a day or two.
How to return the spring to its former stiffness? Three methods have been developed for this purpose:
- Replace the spring and leave the leash. The solution is especially relevant for foreign cars with exorbitant prices for original leashes. When a new assembly unit costs about 5,000 rubles, and a spring costs around 100-300 rubles, there is something to think about. Moreover, if the factory parts are preserved in acceptable condition.
- Lengthen one part of the leash. Typically, the design of the wiper holder involves a riveted connection. It can be riveted and one part can be pulled out relative to the other. At this time, the spring will tighten a little and the clamping force will be restored.
- Replace the leash. The simplest solution to the problem. It is widely practiced by owners of VAZs and budget foreign cars from the mass C-class segment.
Reasons why wipers on Priora work slowly
Among other problems when Priora's wipers work slowly, we can highlight:
• increasing the resistance to movement of brushes in the hinges
Resistance affects not only the speed of operation of the wipers, but also the speed of demolition of the components of the device. The reason for the increase in resistance is the deposition of dirt on rubber and plastic seals and bushings.
It is also worth noting the gradual appearance of rust on the hinge axes. In some cases, rust deposits completely bring the device into a “stupor”. The solution to this problem is to dismantle the drive mechanism and then clean the hinge axes. If the bushings are worn out and do not guarantee tightness, then they also need to be replaced.
A more democratic and practical solution is to use UNISMA. After UNISMA has been sprayed onto the hinges, it is necessary to wait for a period of 20 minutes, then start the car and turn on the windshield wipers. This approach is not the final solution, but only a way to verify the functionality of the mechanism.
If the Lada wipers started working faster, then the mechanism is intact, but still needs to be dismantled to apply grease to the hinges. If after some time the Priora wipers work slowly, you need to take it to a service station to solve this problem.
• wiper motor
If we talk about the malfunction of the electric motor, then it is worth noting the lack of lubrication, which is so “sorry” by the manufacturers of electric motors. Due to this lack of lubrication, the bushings wear out, thereby compromising the integrity of the mechanism. Each electric motor has a rotating armature, which, when the bushings wear out, can touch the stator, causing the armature speed to be lower.
A decrease in armature speed, as a result of which the Priora's wipers work slowly, can occur as a result of oxidation of the collector. The solution to this problem is to sand the commutator with sandpaper. If even after this the wipers work slowly, the Priora needs to install a new driving mechanism.
Replacement
Replacement should only be carried out with the hood closed, otherwise the wiper will not rise.
With the wiper raised, pull the wiper blade down with controlled force. After which the brush will be removed.
If the wipers have not been changed for a long time, then it is necessary to apply quite a bit of force, since the debris and dirt accumulated over the period of operation acted as “glue” and firmly fixed the brush in its seat.
Before installing a new brush, it is necessary to clean the surface of the hook from rust.
Installing a new brush is done by inserting the brush into the wiper hook.
The wiper blade replacement process is complete.
The wipers work slowly on the Priora
When moving the windshield wiper blades on wet glass, if they are turned on at maximum speed, they should make at least 35 double strokes per minute . This requirement is even enshrined in the list of faults of the Road Traffic Rules. Naturally, this also applies to the windshield wipers of the Lada Priora.
There are several reasons why the wipers will move across the windshield of the Lada Priora more slowly than expected. This may be an increase in resistance to the movement of brushes in the hinges of the drive mechanism. This happens due to the deposition of dirt in the plastic bushings and the appearance of rust on the hinge axes. In order to get to the hinges, the drive mechanism will have to be removed from the car. If the plastic bushings are very worn, they will have to be replaced. True, before removing the wiper drive mechanism, you can try spraying UNISMOY on the hinges, wait 15-20 minutes, and then turn on the wipers. If they start moving faster, the drive will still have to be removed and the hinges will need to be lubricated with grease.
Repair of windshield wiper motor gearbox Lada Granta
To disassemble the gearmotor, unscrew the screws securing the gearbox cover 6 and remove it together with the limit switch panel 4.
Then unscrew the screws securing the gearbox housing 11 to the electric motor housing 8 and disconnect them.
Remove armature 9 of the electric motor.
To remove gear 3 of the gearbox, unscrew the crank nut, remove the retaining ring from the axle and remove the axle with gear and washers from the housing.
After disassembly, blow out the internal cavities of the electric motor with compressed air to remove carbon dust deposits and check the condition of the brushes and commutator.
The brushes must move freely in the brush holders without jamming, and the springs must be intact and have sufficient elasticity.
Clean the commutator with fine-grained sandpaper and then wipe with a clean rag lightly greased with petroleum jelly.
If the collector is severely burnt or worn out, it is better to replace the gearmotor with a new one. Check for signs of jamming on the armature shaft journals.
If necessary, sand them with fine-grained sandpaper.
When assembling, move the brushes away from the commutator so as not to break them or damage their edges, and insert the armature into the body with extreme caution, avoiding hitting the armature on the poles so as not to break them. After assembly, to align the bearings, tap the gear motor housing with a wooden hammer, and then check it on the stand
After assembly, to align the bearings, tap the gear motor housing with a wooden hammer, and then check it on a stand.
When installing the crank, position it so that in its final position it is parallel to the short wiper rod and pointed towards the electric motor.
Data for checking the gearmotor
Rotation speed of the gearmotor shaft at a supply voltage of 14 V, a load torque of 1.47 Nm (0.15 kgf m) and an ambient temperature of 25±10 °C, min -1:
— first (small) 30–40
— second (large) 55–70
Current consumption at the above load torque, A, no more than:
— at first speed 3.5
— at second speed 5
If the brush springs are damaged or have lost their elasticity, replace them.
Check the ease of movement of the brushes in the brush holder.
They should move freely without jamming.
Replace worn or chipped brushes.
When replacing, solder the leads of the new brushes to the brush holder.
Clean the collector with fine sandpaper if it is dirty or has marks, scratches, etc.
If the commutator is badly worn or burnt, replace the armature or gearbox with electric motor assembly.
If you find traces of jamming on the armature journals, clean the journals with fine sandpaper.
Replace a gear that has severely worn or broken teeth.
Clean burnt or oxidized contacts of the self-stop mechanism with fine sandpaper.
The windshield wipers do not work on dry glass or stop soon after being turned on. As soon as more drops have dripped onto the glass or sprayed from the windshield washer, the wipers begin to work normally again.
Apparently the motor doesn't have enough power. What to do? It is necessary to change the motor, because... does it stop when the glass is dry or slightly wet (but enough to interfere with vision, but not enough to reduce resistance)? Or is there something I can lubricate or replace? The assembled windshield wiper is sold for about 1.5 thousand rubles. and I don’t want to pay if it can be fixed.
Elementary reasons
We cannot exclude problems with the steering column itself. Electrical connections are susceptible to oxidation, especially in regions with difficult climatic conditions. Since the conversation is in the mainstream of electrics, it is appropriate to emphasize that the state of the “mass” of the gearmotor also affects the speed of rotation of the brushes. Good contact with the body is the key to the factory condition of the system. Oxides and other dirt cause electrical losses, and at low voltage there can be no question of high rotation speed of the wipers.
Manufacturers and prices of analogues
Analogs include frame, frameless, and hybrid brushes. There are several options on the market. Choose the one that suits you best - no matter whether it has a frame or not. The main thing is not to let the old windshield wiper start to scratch the windshield or rear window.
When replacing cleaning brushes, use the following dimensions in millimeters (driver - passenger side):
- 630 – 480;
- 530 – 510;
- 510 – 500.
Other layouts are considered by car owners to be not as effective. Among the well-known analogs of windshield wiper blades are:
- Bosch Aerotwin - frameless, made in Belgium. Full name: Bosch aerotwin retrofitar 532 s. Price – 1200-1300 rubles. The length of the driver's seat is 53 cm, the passenger's length is 50 cm. Sold as a set.
- Bosch Twin is a simpler model. They have the same dimensions, but despite the lower price they are famous for their reliability. The cost is about 800 rubles.
- Bosch Eco is the most economical option. They are inexpensive and sold individually. Price – 300 rubles for one brush. Length – 50 cm.
- Denso Hybrid is recognized as almost the best model on the market. Withstands cold and heat. Price per piece – 500 rubles. Length 50 cm.
- Alca - simple, 500 rubles apiece. The length is 50 cm, but on the passenger side an area of approximately 5 cm wide is left uncovered.
Read more: Self-installation of crankcase protection on a Lada Granta car
Diagnosis - disassemble
The key reason for windshield wiper failure is the wear of the trapezoid bushings that transmit rotation to the wiper arms. Wear, of course, is a flexible concept. Thus, banal dry operation significantly reduces the speed of the mechanism. There are even cases of asynchronous operation, when one leash rotates as expected, and the second moves with a delay.
In advanced cases, the bushings jam, and the wipers completely stop responding to the driver’s commands. Basic observations will help you determine that the problem is really in them. When the windshield wipers are turned on, a heavy hum will appear in the area of the motor, and the on-board equipment lamps will noticeably dim.
The diagnosis in such a case is absolutely obvious - disassembly followed by troubleshooting. Perhaps everything can be done by smearing it with a thick compound that does not attract dust. It is quite possible that something else will happen: you will have to look for a new trapezoid. But in this matter there will most likely be difficulties. Owners of older foreign cars will have to look for spare parts at disassembly sites, and car dealers will have to study the difference between counterfeit and original. Yes, there are a lot of new parts for the same Priora, but there are no guarantees that the “new” one will be better than the previously used mechanism.
Another obvious thing. The trapezoid, whether used or new, needs revision. Simply lubricating the moving parts is enough and long-term trouble-free operation of the mechanism is ensured.
Let's sum it up
If reliable operation of the windshield wiper is your priority, you should pay attention to all possible ways that parts may fail. The knocking trapeze should attract your attention and in a certain way force you to study the situation
Most likely, the knocking will lead to the fact that you will soon have to replace the device with a new one and buy high-quality replacement parts. But it is quite possible that you just need to get to the trapezoid and tighten the fastenings of its parts in order to eliminate the knocking and continue to operate the device perfectly.
High-quality work of wipers is necessary in any car, so you should immediately solve all problems that arise, taking into account their features and technical difficulties. Replacing the relay can be done in a garage, but it is better to change the trapezoid and wiper motor in a service center. This way, you can get the necessary capabilities for operating the machine without any problems and acquire the necessary performance qualities of peripheral devices. Have you ever encountered problems with your wipers?
Design reasons for slow rotation of courtyards
VAZs are primarily distinguished by their poor factory preparation. At specialized auto forums, they are actively discussing an alternative electrical control scheme for a geared motor, intended for use on both the VAZ 2109 and the “ten” with Priora.
It cannot be said that three relays connected in a certain sequence have a noticeable effect on all machines. Most likely, the implementation lets us down. This system does not tolerate “twisted” wires, which are known to have large losses of electric current. Another thing is soldering or male-female terminals.
Epicurian 25 Sep 2008
It's not a trapezoid, but a thermal fuse that is located in the motor itself; usually it burns out and problems such as low speeds in all modes, sticking or stopping of the wipers! This can be treated in two ways: 1 - replacing the motor (an expensive method) 2 - disassemble the motor and remove the fuse from there, winding the incoming and outgoing wires from the fuse together! (The fuse is a small black box that looks like a microcircuit) good luck!
Quote(Kadastro @ 1.9.2008, 21:11)
And if in the latter mode they only work intermittently? Also a trapezoid? And when I put a relay in the fuse block, the wipers start to drive.
in your case, you need to clean the contacts on the motor, they usually oxidize!
Minor tuning: wiper relay with adjustable pause and optical rain sensor
The rain sensor has only come into full use in the last decade. The sensor makes driving in the rain much easier, freeing the driver from working with the right steering column switch. Today this is not only a salon option. There are a lot of online stores where you can pick up a “relay-optical rain sensor” combination for a specific car and install it yourself.
Setup of purchased kits is carried out according to the instructions. The usual system provides several modes, for example, rain, snow and a standard pause of a few seconds. On-demand operation is not disrupted - if you need a second speed, turn it on. Same with the third one.
An alternative to a rain sensor is a relay with an adjustable pause. It costs a penny, it only takes a few seconds to install, and the effect is very good. Electrical equipment allows you to change the pause depending on the conditions while on the road while driving. Another nice bonus is that you can choose a part with a different cycle of operation of the windshield wipers in washer mode.
Troubleshooting Methods
If the wipers start to stop in the middle of the car's windshield, you must perform the following steps:
check whether the wipers are installed correctly on the drive splines and the condition of the trapezoid
Particular attention must be paid to the drive crank. If assembly errors are detected, they must be eliminated; carefully inspect the drive splines
They can chip, break or wear out, causing the splines to slip and the wipers not returning to their original position. Sometimes the wiper lever may jump out of its place.
The defect is eliminated by replacing worn parts.
The next operation is to check the integrity of the electrical wiring. To do this, you need to check the voltage at the drive connector without turning off the ignition. The voltage should be 12 V. If there is no voltage at the connector contacts, it is necessary to check the integrity of the electrical wiring and the serviceability of the relay sequentially, starting with the fuse in the mounting block. Detected faults must be corrected.
In addition, taking this opportunity, it is recommended to clean and bend the contacts of the windshield wiper drive mounting connectors. Sometimes this also eliminates the defect.
Also, the windshield wipers may not return to their original position due to a defect in the electric motor itself or its switch. In this case, it is necessary to replace the faulty electric motor. The car enthusiast may encounter other, more complex faults that lead to the wipers stopping either in the middle of the windshield or in any other position. In this case, it would be better to contact specialists who will quickly detect and fix the problem.
Therefore, an original solution emerged: when parking a car in severe frost, force the blades to stop in the middle of the windshield. To do this, you just need to break the windshield wiper drive chain and install an additional switch on the car's dashboard.
Having parked the car, for example, at night, the wipers in the middle of the windshield are stopped using a switch. In the morning, after warming it up, using the same switch, the windshield wipers are returned to the transport (initial) state.
My second wiper motor broke down. It started with uncontrollable extra sweeps of the blades. You press the lever up so that the wipers sweep once, but they can sweep several times. You turn on the very first intermittent mode. And sometimes it skips, the wipers wave without stopping several times in a row. I changed the relay just in case, it didn’t help. I pulled the steering column switch, but it didn’t work either. And of course, at the most inopportune moment, in the cold and snow, the wipers simply refused to wave in all modes.
The old motor (factory) was retained. I decided to make one out of two. I took the gears from new ones. I re-soldered the main board with sliding contacts from the old one. And he took the main large gear from the old engine and lubricated the trapezoid.
It turned out to be complete garbage, although it worked for one day. First problem: I smeared the trapezoid with lithol from Auchan. It says minus 40 holds. I stuck the tube in the freezer, it became hard as a stone, I couldn’t even squeeze it out.
Second problem. Although the gears are similar, the geometry is probably different; at certain points they jam.
Third problem. The sliding contacts are heavily ground down. The wipers stopped a quarter of the way, and I had to push them often.
I put it all back in my ass. I reassembled the very last motor. I replaced the lubricant with graphite. I suffered and moved the sliding contacts a little to the side so that they were in the desired position.
I'm tired of this nonsense. I'm really tired of trying to get this little motor. It is difficult to remove it from there when there is a condenser. I've read it, I'll change it to a foreign car. It seems to fit from VW T4. Article number v10-07-0001. But they don’t sell this anymore. People call JP Group 119 820 0300. Price 1600 rubles.
The trapezoid comes in the old type with an axis of 12mm, and the new type with a 10mm axis. I have 10. So this design should make friends with VW without mechanical modifications. Just re-solder the chip.
The wiper mechanism works slowly, Priora
Messages: 15,423 From: Far away
Such a mess. The windshield cleaning mechanism worked extremely slowly, in the first position it was difficult to raise the wipers, in the 2nd and 3rd positions it simply stopped in the raised or half-raised position. I changed the motor, the speed increased, everything worked more or less normally for about 3 weeks. Yesterday the previously present trouble began again, then fuse F11 began to blow out, at the moment the wipers began to move. What the hell guys? I would be glad for some practical advice.
Post edited by Mikha Zlobny
— Mar 31 2011, 10:06
It was about the same, the current on the classics - try connecting the “+” to the motor directly from the battery, if you start to work quickly, then it’s a matter of flow and weak contact. Well, then lubrication of the entire mechanism
Messages: 15,423 From: Far away
there is a chip with 4 wires, it is inserted tightly and fixed, the connectors were looked at - they were alive, not burnt, no water got in - it is sealed due to the rubber seal
Post edited by Mikha Zlobny
— Mar 31 2011, 10:12
Messages: 15,423 From: Far away
Post edited by Mikha Zlobny
— Mar 31 2011, 10:13
Perhaps the spring is to blame
Often, the unsatisfactory performance of wipers is caused by the drive system. In this case, the brushes may extend beyond the glass, ride on the seal, and slip during startup. If there are problems with the electric motor, the windshield wipers become slow and cannot cope with large amounts of snow in winter.
In most cases, the spring in the wiper arm may become loose. This leads to uncleaned areas remaining during work. Solving this problem is quite simple by replacing this part with a new one. Its cost is small, so it won’t be difficult to do.
parking lights
For example, the electrical circuit of a Lada Priora station wagon has the function of both automatic and manual activation of side lights. The activation itself occurs after turning the handle for the side lights and headlights on the dashboard. The contact is triggered and the lights turn on.
The circuit contains fuses that serve to protect against overvoltages and short circuits. Power is supplied to a lamp located on the dashboard. To adjust the brightness of the lights, a special regulator located on the lighting control module is used.
The headlight design of the Priora differs from other cars. The electrical circuit of the VAZ Priora contains a light sensor, as well as a lighting control unit. After turning on the ignition and the lighting control button, the electronic unit responsible for lighting control is activated.
If there is not enough light outside, the unit receives a signal from a sensor located on the windshield. There is also a rain sensor there. After receiving such a signal, the electronic control unit supplies power to the electromagnetic relay coil. Power is supplied to the headlights.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=5obgXdZbYxU
When the relay is triggered, the electric motor does not start
The cause of failure of the electric motor may be either a blown fuse or the motor itself. Fuses must be tested for functionality. If they are in working order, you need to inspect the trapezoid located under the hood; perhaps it has become deformed or a foreign object has gotten into it. In severe frost, again, you should check whether the blades are frozen to the windshield.
If the trapezoid is normal and the wiper blades move freely, you should definitely check the electric motor. To exclude other malfunctions, it should be removed from the car and connected directly to the battery. If it starts working, then it’s time to look for the cause in the electrical circuit.
Source
