Why the wipers on the car do not return to their original position and how to fix it


Wipers don't work

Undoubtedly, if the windshield wipers , driving the car becomes dangerous in bad weather.
In this article we will discuss 7 reasons why wipers may stop working. First, we will discuss simple reasons, then we will move on to more complex ones. 1) The fuse has blown

A fuse is a weak element in a circuit for the purpose of protecting other devices and appliances. In this case, the fuse protects the wiper motor.

In any case, it is better to start troubleshooting with fuses. Since a blown fuse is a fairly common reason why wipers stop working.

In order to find out the location of the fuse, you need to look at the owner's manual for your specific vehicle.

2) Malfunction in wiring and contacts

The next thing you should pay attention to is the integrity of the wiring, as well as the contacts in the connectors. Over time, the contacts oxidize and this may affect the operation of the wipers. Oxidized contacts must be cleaned.

3) Relay is faulty

A relay malfunction can be detected by the intermittent wipers not working. If the wipers work properly in slow and fast mode, but do not work in intermittent mode, then the wiper relay needs to be replaced.

4) Faulty wiper fastening

Over time, the wiper mount may become loose, causing the wipers to stop moving. Because the wiper motor cannot move the position of a weakened wiper. In order to correct the situation, you need to tighten the nut of the loose wiper.

5) The wiper control unit is faulty

Thanks to the control unit, it is possible to switch the operating mode of the wipers. A common reason for the steering wiper switch not working is oxidation of the contacts. If all the windshield wiper elements work, but the wipers still refuse to work. Then you will have to replace the wiper control unit.

6) The wiper motor is faulty

If the wiper motor is faulty, the wipers will stop moving altogether, which is not surprising. In order to detect signs of motor life, it is necessary to check the voltage in the electric motor connector. The voltage of the wiper motor should be the same as that of the battery. If so, that means he's alive.

Over time, the brushes in the wiper motor wear out and can be replaced. If the winding burns out, it’s easier to buy a new wiper motor. Since replacing the winding does not make sense.

7) Trapezoid is faulty

The trapezoid consists of rods and levers thanks to which movement is transmitted from the motor to the wiper arms. It rarely fails. Often the leads themselves break down due to the flimsy design of the slots. Therefore, a small force in the opposite direction can break them. In this case, the leashes will have to be replaced.

Today we will talk about wipers again, but only this time we will figure out why the windshield wipers do not return to their original position and stop in the middle.

Like any other breakdown, this one is also unpleasant, however, like all others, it can be completely repaired with your own hands.

The most common causes of this malfunction are:

  1. The problem is with the contacts . Often the cause of this behavior is the contact group of the gearmotor, malfunction of the motor limit switch. Stop the wipers in the middle of their stroke without turning off the ignition, check the voltage at the wiper wire connector, it should be 12v. Check the condition of the fuse.

  1. Violation of the integrity of the splines . If the car is not new, and the wipers have to work frequently, then a broken teeth of the windshield wiper drive splines or simple abrasion of the splines may well be the reason why the wipers do not return to their place. Alternatively, the splines could simply jump, as a result of which the brushes simply do not return to their original position. As a rule, this breakdown is characterized by the fact that the motor makes noise, and the wipers themselves do not return to their place. This can be treated by replacing damaged gears or simple adjustments. To do this, you need to disassemble the windshield wiper drive gear, adjust the closer, lubricate them if necessary, check the contacts or completely replace the gear motor.

Important points

The voltage (U) and capacity of the car battery are the main parameters that need to be paid attention to when choosing and checking a power source. The main purpose of the battery is to start the engine during the period when the car's generator has not yet been connected to work, and the battery is the only power source

The main purpose of the battery is to start the engine during the period when the car's generator has not yet been connected to work, and the battery is the only power source.

To eliminate operational problems, the car owner should know the following points:

  • What does the battery life depend on?
  • What should the voltage be (in normal mode, after starting the engine and under load);
  • What causes the decrease in capacity during the cold season and other issues.

Let's consider these questions in detail.

Trapezoid - the mechanism for direct operation of the wipers

One of the most complex mechanisms in the wiper system kit is the trapezoid. Today, no car manufacturer has such a reliable wiper drive mechanism to guarantee long-term operation of the device. Banal jamming of brushes or excessive emphasis on the glass, improper activation of the wipers, freezing to the glass in winter - all these reasons can be detrimental to the trapezoid. Among the possibilities for restoring this mechanism, it is worth highlighting only a few possible steps:

  • purchasing a new trapezoid is often the best step for domestic cars, in which the wiper mechanism costs about 1000-1500 rubles;
  • for foreign cars, purchasing a new trapezoid will cost exorbitant amounts of money, so in this case, repairs should be made and broken parts restored;
  • Often the bushings and tips in trapezoids fail, which are often plastic and are terribly resistant to frost, so they can simply be replaced;
  • if it is not easy to find a repair kit for a trapezoid for your car, you can try installing bushings and other parts from other cars of a similar class;
  • Direct replacement of the trapezoid is necessary if even repair work does not eliminate the problem, or after repair the mechanism begins to tap during operation.

VAZ 2110 onboard voltage drops

Moderator: Kolya Taran

VAZ 2110 onboard voltage drops

aleks1981 » Nov 16, 2015, 10:42 pm

Re: VAZ 2110 power supply voltage drops

by leopold » Nov 16, 2015 10:49 pm

Re: VAZ 2110 power supply voltage drops

St. Midshipman » November 16, 2015, 11:21 pm

This is a generator, listen to Lenya (he is wrong). Take it off, disassemble it, dry everything well and you will see the result.

Added after 3 minutes 58 seconds: At the same time, you will defect the generator, if you understand anything about it. And it’s better to visit Lena.

Re: VAZ 2110 power supply voltage drops

aleks1981 » Nov 16, 2015, 11:23 pm

Re: VAZ 2110 power supply voltage drops

by leopold » Nov 16, 2015 11:30 pm

Re: VAZ 2110 power supply voltage drops

St. Midshipman » November 16, 2015, 11:37 pm

Re: VAZ 2110 power supply voltage drops

by leopold » Nov 16, 2015 11:46 pm

Added after 4 minutes 28 seconds:

Re: VAZ 2110 power supply voltage drops

aleks1981 » Nov 16, 2015, 11:49 pm

Re: VAZ 2110 power supply voltage drops

by leopold » Nov 16, 2015 11:57 pm

My pleasure. Ask me if there's any need.

Added after 2 minutes 34 seconds: It may even be simply a bad contact in the connector of the same BC. Do not mind it

Re: VAZ 2110 power supply voltage drops

St. Midshipman » November 16, 2015, 11:59 pm

Re: VAZ 2110 power supply voltage drops

aleks1981 » 03 Feb 2016, 21:10

Who's on the forum now?

Registered users: Bing [Bot] , GoGo.Ru [Bot] , Stock

  • List of forums
  • Mobile view • Our team • Delete forum cookies • Time zone: UTC + 2 hours [Summer Time]

Quoting information from the site is welcome with mandatory indication of the source WWW.SPL43.RU

While on the site, users consent to the processing of personal data that is processed for the purposes of the operation of the site. Age limit: 18+

The editors are not responsible for comments left by users.

To post a reply you must log in or register.

There is no intermittent wiper mode - looking for a relay

Often, along with the lack of intermittent mode, problems arise with returning the windshield wiper blade to its original position. In this case, the culprit of the situation is a burnt-out relay. At the same time, the mode of continuous strokes of the windshield wiper blade is present, as well as the mode of accelerated cleaning of the glass. These options for operating the windshield wiper are designed to bypass the relay; they are implemented directly from the handle for switching on the wiper operating modes. When a relay fails, you simply need to replace it by following this procedure:

  • searching for the installation location of the relay in your car - again, forums, the car’s operating instructions or recommendations from specialists who repair your car will help;
  • Next, the non-working relay should be removed from the installation location, the device number should be rewritten so as not to make a mistake when choosing a new electrical device to replace it;
  • go to the store or order on the Internet an original production relay with the same catalog number to ensure normal operation of the wiper on the car;
  • Having received the device in your hands, take a good look at it, make sure that this is exactly the element that was originally installed in your car at the factory;
  • turn off the ignition, be sure to check that the wiper switch is in the “off” position and insert the relay into the slot from which the non-working device was removed;
  • turn on the ignition and check the quality of the wipers, taking into account the new installed electrical part.

The operating modes of wipers on budget cars are often quite poor, so you can develop them by installing a relay from the same manufacturer, but with different parameters. For example, it is popular to install not a simple wiper relay on domestic cars in the basic configuration, but a special relay with adjustable brush response pause. This is a good option that can significantly improve the emotions of driving a car and make the driver’s job easier.

Fuses and other electrical connections

Not the last option for a problem in the wiper operation system is electrical connections and circuits. The first step is to check the fuses, which tend to fail and simply do not allow electric current to flow to the right place. Most cars have fuses under the hood; some models should be examined for a fuse box in the passenger compartment.

Generator

The Chevrolet Niva generator unit allows you to provide the entire vehicle with energy for the operation of all electronic devices of the vehicle. This node consists of 3 main elements:

  • generator set - creates alternating current;
  • rectifier - converts alternating current into direct current;
  • voltage regulator - stabilizes the output voltage.

The total power of the installation of 5000 rpm allows you to maintain a constant voltage of 13-14 V, while the current is 55-60 A. These characteristics are optimal for the normal operating condition of the car. The electricity generated by the generator is distributed to all consumers of the system, and the rest is used to recharge the battery while the engine is running. The generator itself is located near the engine and connected to its crankshaft via a belt drive. Its lower part is attached with 2 special claws to the engine bracket with 1 bolt fastener. The device is secured to a bar at the top via a pin. Since the unit in the VAZ 2123 is located very close to the car engine, it has a reliable design that can withstand loads from vibration, temperature, as well as a humid environment and dirt. A generator rarely breaks down, but some of its parts become unusable after a certain period of use, for example, brushes.

Steering wheel shift paddles are a common cause of problems

Windshield wipers in most modern cars are activated using steering column switches in the form of levers with data on the operating modes of the equipment printed on them. These levers must work well and have the necessary signals to turn on the wipers. Often the handle fails, the switch does not send the necessary signals, and because of this, the wipers themselves do not work properly. The main tasks in this case are the following:

  • it is necessary to remove the plastic parts of the steering column in order to get directly to the installation site of the wiper switches;
  • in most cars, the switches are very easy to remove; the maximum work awaiting you will be unscrewing a few bolts;
  • after removing the switch, you can use a tester to check its operation by connecting the contacts one by one to different terminals and turning on the wiper operating modes;
  • if the switch really fails, you should simply replace it with a new one, installing it as simply as disassembling it;
  • If the switch works, you will have to look for other causes of the problem; it is quite possible that the reasons lie in the area where the switch is connected.

Often, wires simply come off the terminals of this steering column switch and need to be returned to their place. Most likely, after carrying out a complete audit of the electrical system, including switches and other important technical aspects, you will be able to determine the problem and easily fix it. You don't even need any special tools or abilities for this. All you need to do is perform a high-quality restoration of the operation of all simple wiper systems. We offer a short video on how to deal with the problem if the wipers suddenly stop working:

Malfunction in the vehicle's on-board network

The voltage parameter of the vehicle's on-board network can vary in the range from 7V to 25.5V.

When the engine is not running, the parameter reflects the voltage of the battery; when the engine is running, the parameter can be used to judge the operation of the generator and the vehicle’s on-board voltage stabilization system. The permissible voltage on a working car (with the engine running and at a nominal voltage value of 12) is from 13.6–14.5V. Exceeding the given range requires checking the circuits and elements of the vehicle’s on-board network. In any case (and this is not difficult to do), make two checks during diagnostics related to the on-board voltage parameter:

  • Compare the voltage displayed by the tester with the measured voltage on the battery. The values ​​should not differ by more than 0.5V. The injection system control unit adjusts the estimated injector opening time based on the on-board network voltage. If the difference in voltage is more than 0.6V, then the fuel injected by the injector may be more or less than calculated. This leads to increased consumption and decreased dynamic performance of the engine. This kind of malfunction is very rare, but it needs to be checked. The main relay may fail in such a way that voltage will be present on the control elements, the control unit will work, but the load (turning on the injectors) will not be supported - the voltage “sags” and the engine will not start.
  • Make sure that the on-board network voltage changes by no more than 0.4V when additional loads are turned on (heating, high beams, etc.) or throttling (changing engine speed).
  • Voltage changes of more than 0.4V indicate poor stabilization of the on-board network. Check the generator and its voltage regulator. Errors related to the voltage parameter of the vehicle's on-board network:

A malfunction of the generator or voltage stabilizer leads to unstable engine operation at idle. The main relay does not provide electrical contact for the operation of the power elements of the system (injectors).

  • Low voltage on the vehicle's on-board network. If such a malfunction is detected, then two cases are possible: either the generator does not work and the battery is almost completely discharged, or there is poor contact in the circuits supplying power to the electronic control system - battery terminal, faulty main relay, poor contact in the fuse block.
  • High voltage on the vehicle's on-board network. The cause of this malfunction can only be incorrect operation of the voltage stabilizer in the generator, for example, after a thorough washing of the engine and engine compartment.
  • Malfunction - incorrect voltage, unstable idle speed when additional loads are turned on, the engine stalls and does not start.

Let's sum it up

If reliable operation of the windshield wiper is your priority, you should pay attention to all possible ways that parts may fail. The knocking trapeze should attract your attention and in a certain way force you to examine the situation. Most likely, the knocking will lead to the fact that you will soon have to replace the device with a new one and buy high-quality replacement parts. But it is quite possible that you just need to get to the trapezoid and tighten the fastenings of its parts in order to eliminate the knocking and continue to operate the device perfectly.

High-quality work of wipers is necessary in any car, so you should immediately solve all problems that arise, taking into account their features and technical difficulties. Replacing the relay can be done in a garage, but it is better to change the trapezoid and wiper motor in a service center. This way, you can get the necessary capabilities for operating the machine without any problems and acquire the necessary performance qualities of peripheral devices. Have you ever encountered problems with your wipers?

When stopping in the middle of the glass is beneficial

This cannot be said that this is a completely correct decision on the part of motorists, but some of them specifically stop the wipers in the middle of the glass on the car.

This is related to the following situation. In winter, when the brushes suddenly stopped in the middle, this ultimately brought certain positive results. Getting into the car and turning on the heater, the blower began to supply air to the windshield from the inside. Thereby removing the ice that appeared during the night spent in the parking lot under the snow and frost.

Due to the fact that the blades were in the middle, where the hot air was blowing, the blades came off simultaneously with the windshield defrosting. There was no need to further clean the wipers, to free them from their icy captivity, so to speak.

As a result, a kind of life hack appeared. When parking a car in a parking lot during severe frosts, drivers specially stop the brushes in this position. To do this, it was necessary to break the drive chain and install an additional switch on the dashboard. During the night of inactivity, the brushes froze, but due to the operation of the stove and the windshield blowing, they quickly thawed. All that was left was to use this new switch to return the wipers to their original state. And then use it as usual.

It is worth recognizing that this solution is suitable for owners of fairly old cars. It is unlikely that anyone will interfere with the wiring or install any buttons on new foreign cars. Although the solution itself is quite interesting and effective, which has been proven in practice.

Have you ever encountered such breakdowns? What was the reason? How and how did you eliminate it? What do you think about the life hack?

Posts 1 to 20 of 31

1 Topic by OlegD 2014-05-17 23:11:18

  • OlegD
  • Connoisseur
  • Inactive
  • From: Moscow
  • Registration: 2014-01-15
  • Messages: 511 Thanks : 115
  • Car: 21114, door 21124 1.6 l., 2007 onwards

Topic: Voltage drops significantly when turning on loads

The problem is the following: when the loads are turned on, the voltage drops. For example, if the radiator fan turns on, the voltage immediately drops by 0.7 V somewhere. Even when the radio is turned off, the voltage may drop below 12 V (if other consumers are turned on: lights, airflow, wipers, radiator fan).

I have a generator 9402.3701. I decided to check it according to the instructions: lada2111.rf/repear/809-proverka- … -2110.html

There seems to be no short circuit, all parameters are normal. What's confusing:

1) The rotor winding resistance is 3.2 Ohms, but it is written that it should be at least 4.5 Ohms. Although they check the same generator here, they also have about 3 Ohms: car-exotic.com/lada-kalina/vaz-1 … nt-10.html

2) When I check the voltage regulator, when the voltage rises above 14 V, the light bulb does not burn brightly, but only as if the filament glows. Is this also a sign of a problem? At 12 V the light is on at full brightness.

Maybe the problem isn't with the generator at all?

2 Reply from Serg 2014-05-18 08:57:27

  • Serg
  • Lada2111.rf fan
  • Inactive
  • Registration: 2013-07-29
  • Messages: 830 Thanks : 363
  • Car: 2111 dwg 2114 year 2008

Re: Voltage drops significantly when turning on loads

First, determine the reason - either the gene is not produced or the current does not reach consumers. To do this, measure the voltage at the generator terminal under load (the drop when connecting a load is not lower than 1 volt, i.e. without a load +14.5 with a connected one, think what you are saying is the beginning of what you are doing

3 Reply from OlegD 2014-05-18 12:24:06

  • OlegD
  • Connoisseur
  • Inactive
  • From: Moscow
  • Registration: 2014-01-15
  • Messages: 511 Thanks : 115
  • Car: 21114, door 21124 1.6 l., 2007 onwards

Re: Voltage drops significantly when turning on loads

Serg , thank you for your answer!

Can you explain how to correctly measure the voltage at the generator terminals? Here's a picture, for example:

I've only seen a text description of how to do it - I'm not very familiar with the place.

Well, now we need to somehow assemble the generator, put it in place and tighten the belt. And all this on a 124 engine with power steering.

4 Reply from OlegD 2014-05-18 22:42:01 (2014-05-18 22:42:23 edited by OlegD)

  • OlegD
  • Connoisseur
  • Inactive
  • From: Moscow
  • Registration: 2014-01-15
  • Messages: 511 Thanks : 115
  • Car: 21114, door 21124 1.6 l., 2007 onwards

Re: Voltage drops significantly when turning on loads

Looks like I figured it out. It looks like you need to make a measurement between the B+ terminal and the generator housing. Pin B+ is a “stud with a nut” where the contacts are screwed.

5 Reply from Serg 2014-05-19 08:18:19

  • Serg
  • Lada2111.rf fan
  • Inactive
  • Registration: 2013-07-29
  • Messages: 830 Thanks : 363
  • Car: 2111 dwg 2114 year 2008

Re: Voltage drops significantly when turning on loads

Measure everything correctly

6 Reply from OlegD 2014-05-19 14:24:33 (2014-05-19 14:26:39 edited by OlegD)

  • OlegD
  • Connoisseur
  • Inactive
  • From: Moscow
  • Registration: 2014-01-15
  • Messages: 511 Thanks : 115
  • Car: 21114, door 21124 1.6 l., 2007 onwards

Re: Voltage drops significantly when turning on loads

Serg , measured the voltage. First, I simply measured it on the battery terminals, then started the car and measured it without additional loads, then turned on the dimensions, low and high beams, and the heater at 2. Here are the results:

1) at the battery terminals (the car is not started, the ignition is off): 12.55 V 2) at the battery terminals (the car is started, the loads are off): 13.8 V 3) at the generator (the car is started, the loads are off): 13.8 B 4) at the battery terminals (the car is started, the loads are on): 13.3 V 5) at the generator (the car is started, the loads are on): 13.5 V

At the same time, when I turn on the loads, I see a voltage drop on the on-board device (as the loads are turned on) and, in the end, it shows 12.5 V. It looks like Serg said something was wrong with the wiring. Now, apparently, we need to look where exactly?

In general, the voltage seems to be a bit low, right?

In general Serg , thanks for the advice, very sensible. Otherwise I would have been walking around with the generator, I didn’t know what to do.

7 Reply from Serg 2014-05-20 08:05:49

  • Serg
  • Lada2111.rf fan
  • Inactive
  • Registration: 2013-07-29
  • Messages: 830 Thanks : 363
  • Car: 2111 dwg 2114 year 2008

Re: Voltage drops significantly when turning on loads

Well done, he did everything right, now in the cabin under the dashboard you open the fuse box, then you reach in with your hand and pull out all the connectors into the light of day and do an inspection of them, pay attention to the thick wires.

Rating
( 2 ratings, average 5 out of 5 )
Did you like the article? Share with friends:
For any suggestions regarding the site: [email protected]
Для любых предложений по сайту: [email protected]