Lada kalina 2. ten years later. list of works 2 frets Kalina 2


We go through TO 1 together with Lada Kalina

Testing the new Kalina

When purchasing a new Lada Kalina, we first enjoy its gloss and excellent chassis. But there comes a time when you need to think about such an important issue as maintenance, that is, technical inspection. You have to find out everything about how the maintenance of 1 Lada Kalina takes place, get information about the timing and procedure, as well as its pitfalls.

Whether we like it or not, every car owner must undergo maintenance. In addition, this procedure guarantees the safety of the car, because even the highest quality, durable parts wear out sooner or later. These problems are identified and resolved during inspection.

Approximate cost of repair work on the Kalina body at a service station

Body Kalina station wagon Lada

Here are the prices offered today at various repair services.

Replacement, removal and installation of body partsPrice, rubles
Hood replacement (removal/installation)1800
Front fenders (removal/installation)1600
Front doors (removal/installation)2200
Rear doors (removal/installation)2000
Bumpers (removal/installation)1800
Sedan trunk lid (removal/installation)1900
Replacement of load-bearing body elementsPrice, rubles
Roof panel9000
Wing14 000
Spar11 000
Door threshold9000
Door pillar8000
Slip worksPrice, rubles
Installing the car on a slipway to remove reference points to check the geometry of the body4000

In principle, the prices are not that low. It would be better to learn how to replace (which is much easier) or repair it yourself. We are not talking about competently taking body dimensions to compare geometry. This, of course, should be done only with high-quality equipment, which is almost impossible to provide in a garage workshop.

On the other hand, useful information about the geometric dimensions of Kalina’s bodies will be presented below, which will make it possible to remove them yourself using a regular tape measure.

Watch a video about problem areas of the Lada Kalina body

https://youtube.com/watch?v=Pksaxx6I2BU

Types of technical inspection, list of works

On the territory of the Russian Federation, cars undergo 4 types of technical inspection. TO 1 - the first technical inspection, which includes the following list of works:

  • washing and lubrication;
  • general diagnostics;
  • adjustment, maintenance and repair.

TO 2 - in addition to the operations carried out during TO 1, it involves a large-scale check of the vehicle’s devices with the removal of individual parts.

Kalina's TO 3 and TO 4 are the subsequent stages of testing, the first is required after 40-45 thousand km, the second after 60 thousand km or no later than 4 years from the date of purchase of the car. The operations in this case are the same as for TO 2 Kalina.

Let's look at the standard list of work that is carried out during maintenance 1:

  • adjusting bearings, main components, checking the chassis and power unit;
  • cleaning and replacing (if necessary) the fuel filter and ventilation hoses;
  • timing adjustment;

Official VAZ technical service

checking the flame arrester and cleaning it;

idle speed monitoring and adjustment; checking the working condition of brushes, rings and other parts; checking the working condition of wheels and doors; gearbox monitoring, oil change, automatic transmission maintenance and repair; checking engine toxicity and much more.

As we can see, all components and parts that are responsible for the operation of the car, its handling and safety are checked.

Of course, technical inspection is a paid service. It is difficult to name the average price, since each car requires an individual approach. The average maintenance cost for a Lada Kalina is 3,000 rubles, considering that the car is in order and has only minor problems.

Operating conditions of Kalina

The purpose of the car is to transport luggage and people on public roads with hard surfaces. These Lada Kalina models are characterized by high dynamic qualities

This requires some caution until you have fully mastered the driving technique according to the instructions.

The operating instructions for Lada Kalina allow the use of the vehicle at ambient temperature conditions ranging from -40 to + 50 °C. The road surface must meet the requirements of the GOST R 50597 standard. The VAZ-1118 and VAZ-1119 brands comply with the requirements developed in the Russian Federation that apply to the quality indicators of this type of product and measures for its safe use.

During operation, it is impossible to allow damage to the vehicle, which can be mechanical, thermal and chemical. Improper use of a vehicle can lead to external impacts on it as a result of road accidents.

It is necessary to monitor the general technical condition of the car and the safe operation of the Lada Kalina. The car must be used according to its intended purpose within the service life established by the manufacturer who developed the Lada Kalina.

A simple way to calculate engine hours for oil changes

Changing engine oil is a mandatory vehicle maintenance procedure, neglect of which results in rapid failure of the power unit. Oil helps reduce the load on moving elements, but over time it loses its performance characteristics. As a rule, domestic motorists change engine oil based on mileage, and in rare cases, based on how long it has been in the engine. But many experienced auto mechanics recommend using engine hours to determine when to replace the lubricant. In this article I will tell you how and why you need to do this.

Without going into details, 1 engine hour can be equated to a real hour of time when the engine is idling

.
However, an increase in speed leads to an increase in the load on the engine elements, which is why 1 engine hour passes faster than a real hour. It is this parameter that is considered to be the main one for engine maintenance
.
The vast majority of special equipment is equipped with an hour meter on the dashboard, and passenger cars have been deprived of such an element, although it is sometimes found on premium models
.

Unlike mileage, engine hours allow you to compare the load on the engine depending on the conditions of use of the car. For example, 10,000 km of travel on the highway and a similar mileage in city traffic conditions entail different effects on engine oil

.
In the second case, the quality of the lubricant will begin to be lost earlier, if you use the tachometer as a guide. This is why experienced car enthusiasts take engine hours into account. But not everyone knows how to calculate them, so I decided to share a simple and accessible method
.

First, I recommend trying to look for the counter in the on-board computer

.
As a rule, this function is found on German and American-made cars. The driver just needs to reset the meter readings, after which he can always monitor the current data. A fairly large number of car models have a built-in engine hour meter, but the information from it is not displayed on the screen, but is stored in the “brains” of the car
. This information can only be read using a diagnostic tool. If the car owner has the equipment in stock, then it will not be difficult to occasionally look into closed data.

The two methods listed above are not available to everyone, so car enthusiasts have developed a simple and accessible method

.
It consists of using an average speed counter. First you need to find out how many engine hours the engine oil you are using is designed for
.
As a rule, this information is indicated on the label or can be easily found out from the standard. Modern mid-price synthetic oil is designed for approximately 300 hours of use
.

Now we need to measure the average driving speed over at least 1,000 km in the driver’s usual mode

.
We multiply the resulting number by the permissible number of engine hours for a specific oil. For example, if the average speed is 30 km/h, and the oil is designed for 300 operating hours, then 300 * 30 = 9,000 km is the mileage after which it is recommended to replace the lubricant with a new one
.


Source

Recommendations for selection

The choice of oil for Kalina is considered the most important stage of replacement, since the procedure for changing the fluid itself does not cause big problems even for beginners. The work takes 1 – 2 hours.

Therefore, try to choose the mixture that you are going to pour into the engine of your Lada Kalina as correctly as possible.

All oils available on the market are divided into 2 categories:

  • all-season;
  • seasonal (summer and winter).

Most car owners prefer universal all-season vehicles, but in harsh winter climates this is not always a wise choice.

The best solution would be to use seasonal oils. If more viscous compounds are suitable for summer, then in winter it is recommended to use low-viscosity liquids. Based on what the temperature is in your region.

As the maximum cold start temperature of the power unit increases, oils with the following viscosity classes are used for Kalina:

  • 20W40;
  • 15W40;
  • 10W40;
  • 5W40;
  • 5W30;
  • 0W40;
  • 0W30.

Among them, 20W40 is used in the temperature range from -15 to +45 degrees Celsius, and 0W30 is suitable for severe winters when the temperature drops below -35 degrees and does not rise above +25 degrees Celsius.

In terms of manufacturers, the following brands and their motor oils performed well:

  • Luxe Hit;
  • Teboil Gold;
  • Lukoil Lux;
  • GT Turbo SM;
  • TNK Super;
  • Esso Ultra;
  • Mobil 1, Synt S and Super S;
  • Extras 1, 5 and 7;
  • Liqui Moly Optimal;
  • ZIC A Plus.

These are motor oils recommended by experts and Kalina car owners that optimally meet the engine requirements.

Oil consumption rates are up to 1 liter for every 1000 kilometers according to the car manufacturer’s tolerances. The amount of oil consumed is influenced by a number of factors, including the quality and viscosity of the motor fluid used.

The level of engine oil consumption will reach maximum levels during aggressive and active driving, as well as at high speeds. Plus, the piston rings, pistons themselves and cylinder walls will additionally wear out.

Try to drive slowly and do not overload the engine unless absolutely necessary. Otherwise, you will have to change consumables much more often than indicated in the instruction manual.

Another pressing issue is how much oil is in the Lada Kalina engine. The amount of lubricant purchased directly depends on this. Taking into account washing, it will require 2–3 times more.

The amount of oil on the Lada Kalina engine with a volume of 1.6 liters and 8 valves is 3 liters. Be guided by the marks on the dipstick, since the actual amount of lubricant to be filled is somewhat different from what is indicated in the motor specifications.

After pouring the required amount of oil into the engine, check the level with a dipstick. The oil film should be exactly between the minimum and maximum o and “Max”).

The Lada Kalina will consume working fluid as it is used, so be sure to periodically check the level and add the missing amount. If the time for replacing the lubricant is approaching, it will need to be drained as completely as possible in order to refill with fresh composition. Some of it will still remain in the system.

CAR SERVICE AUTOMALL BELGORODSKY

LADA Granta – 1.6 l (98 hp), 1.6 l (106 hp)

TO-15
TO-30
TO-45
TO-60
TO-75
TO-90
Mileage :
15 000
30 000
45 000
60 000
75 000
90 000
TOTAL COST
Job title:
Engine oil
+
+
+
+
+
+
Oil filter
+
+
+
+
+
+
Cabin heater filter element
+
+
+
+
+
+
working fluids, air conditioning system refrigerant – top up (refill) if necessary*
+
+
+
+
+
+
front brake pads - replacement if necessary*
+
+
+
+
+
+
presence of cracks and corrosion of the body, peeling of mastic from the bottom and wheel arches
+
+
+
+
+
+
operation of door and hood locks
+
+
+
+
+
+
The condition of the front and rear suspension elements, their rubber and rubber-metal hinges, bushings and cushions, the condition of the steering rod joints and their protective caps, the steering rod joints and their protective caps; protective covers of the steering mechanism, wheel drives, ball pins, condition of the cable ends of the gear shift control drive and their protective covers
+
+
+
+
+
+
Total play in steering
+
+
+
+
+
+
Tightness of cooling systems, power supply, hydraulic drive of brakes and clutch; condition of hoses, tubes and connections
+
+
+
+
+
+
Tightness of seals of components and assemblies
+
+
+
+
+
+
Brake fluid level in the hydraulic brake reservoir
+
+
+
+
+
+
Coolant level;
+
+
+
+
+
+
Condition and tension of the auxiliary drive belt (generator)
+
+
+
+
+
+
Condition of wires, reliability of connections and fastening clamps
+
+
+
+
+
+
Operation of the generator, lighting, light and sound alarms, electrical equipment and electronic systems according to the indicators of the instrument cluster and other indicators on the instrument panel
+
+
+
+
+
+
Absence of non-functional noise and knocking in the engine, transmission components and assemblies
+
+
+
+
+
+
Performance of the service and parking brake systems
+
+
+
+
+
+
Condition of rims and tires, air pressure in tires
+
+
+
+
+
+
Condition of front brake pads and brake discs
+
+
+
+
+
+
Presence and correct location of warning labels in the vehicle interior
+
+
+
+
+
+
Battery condition
+
+
+
+
+
+
Compliance with established standards for the boundaries of light beams of headlights
+
+
+
+
+
+
Power steering performance
+
+
+
+
+
+
The functionality of the vehicle's electronic systems using instrument panel indicators and the absence of fault codes in the controller's memory
+
+
+
+
+
+
Engine air filter
+
+
+
Spark plug
+
+
+
Rear brake pads - replacement if necessary*
+
+
+
+
+
Brake fluid
+
Coolant
+
Accessory Drive Belt and Tensioner Pulley
+
total COST OF WORK
* spare parts, working fluids, refrigerant and replacement work (topping up/refilling) are paid additionally by the consumer
Cost of spare parts

Please check with the manager by phone for the cost of maintenance for the 1.6 l (87 hp) internal combustion engine. TO-90 Avtomall Belgorodsky recommends additionally replacing the timing belt kit. * Price information contained on this Site is for informational purposes only. The prices indicated are the maximum resale prices (unless otherwise expressly stated in the relevant section of the Site) and may differ from actual prices. The purchase of any service and spare part is carried out in accordance with the terms of the individual sales contract. The information presented on the Site does not mean that these Products are available for sale. For more information, please contact the manager by phone 37-60-60, 37-55-99.*

**The information presented on the site regarding recommended retail prices, specifications, standards and technical characteristics is for informational purposes only and under no circumstances constitutes a public offer as defined by the provisions of Article 437 (2) of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation. Pads and brake discs are replaced according to wear. Find out the required volume of brake fluid at the AutoTechCENTER. Depending on the engine type, different additives may be used.

List of works during maintenance 8 (mileage 104,500 - 105,000 km.)

  1. All maintenance work 2.

How much does a Lada Kalina maintenance cost?

The average cost of work to carry out the next maintenance is about 3,000 rubles ($45.4). For the first maintenance, add the cost of oil (minimum $7.11 for 4 l) and filter on average $2, we get

$54.51. At the second maintenance, a cabin filter will be added

2$, the amount is already 56.5$. At the third maintenance, fuel, air and spark plug filters are added to the sum of the second. The amount of the third one is already about $66. The fourth maintenance can cost $57. And the most expensive sixth maintenance, plus

1. Maintenance operations performed after the first 2500 km of a new car:

Make sure there are no extraneous noises or knocks when the engine is running.

Check the tightness of the fasteners of the power unit supports

Make sure there are no engine oil leaks through the engine seals and oil seals.

Replace engine oil and oil filter.

Make sure there are no coolant leaks, check the condition of the hoses and radiator of the engine cooling system.

Check the tightness of fuel lines and hoses.

Check the functionality (based on the presence of fault codes) of the engine control system.

Check the tightness of the exhaust gas system and the condition of the muffler suspension parts.

Make sure there is no extraneous noise when engaging and disengaging the clutch.

Check the tightness and, if necessary, tighten the camshaft covers*.

Adjust thermal clearances in the gas distribution mechanism*.

Check the clutch pedal travel.

Make sure there are no transmission oil leaks through the seals and oil seals of the gearbox.

Check the condition of the protective covers of the hinge and gear shift rod.

Check the smoothness of gear shifting, make sure there are no extraneous noises or knocks in the operation of the gearbox.

Make sure that there is no extraneous noise in the joints of the front wheel drives when the vehicle is moving straight and when turning.

Check the condition of the protective covers of the front wheel drive joints.

Check the condition of tires and rims.

Check and, if necessary, balance the wheels.

Make sure there is no extraneous noise in the front and rear suspensions when driving the car over uneven surfaces.

Check the condition of the front and rear suspension parts.

Check and, if necessary, adjust wheel alignment angles.

Check the condition of the protective covers of the steering rods and steering mechanism.

Make sure the electric power steering is working properly.

Make sure there are no brake fluid leaks, check the condition of the brake system hydraulic hoses and pipes.

Check and, if necessary, adjust the position of the brake light switch.

Check the operation of the parking brake.

Check the effectiveness of all brake mechanisms.

Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir.

Make sure the generator is working properly.

Make sure that the lamps of the lighting system, light alarm and sound signal are in good condition.

Check the functionality of the electric headlight corrector.

Adjust the direction of the headlight beams.

Make sure that the indicator lamps in the instrument panel are working properly.

Check the serviceability of the windshield wipers and washers in all operating modes.

Check the serviceability of the electrically heated rear window.

Check the serviceability of the electronic mirrors.

Check the functionality of the electrically heated seats.

Make sure the locks are in good working order

Check the condition of the heater.

2. After every 15,000 km of vehicle mileage, it is necessary to perform all operations (except o) performed at 2,500 km, as well as:

Check the condition and tension of the timing belt.

Check the coolant level in the expansion tank of the engine cooling system.

Check the oil level in the gearbox.

Check the amount of play in the steering (“Checking the technical condition of the steering”).

Check the degree of wear of the front brake pads.

Check the condition and tension of the generator drive belt.

Check the degree of wear of the rear brake pads.

Check the level and density of the electrolyte in the battery.

Lubricate hinges and door stops.

Clean drainage holes in doors and thresholds.

Replace the filter element of the cabin ventilation system.

3. After every 30,000 km of the vehicle’s mileage, it is necessary to perform all the operations performed during the mileage of every 15,000 km, as well as:

Replace the fuel filter of the engine power supply system.

Replace the air filter element.

Replace spark plugs.

Check the functionality of the hydraulic pressure regulator of the brake system.

Clean and lubricate the battery terminals and terminals.

Lubricate the door and hood locks.

4. After every 45,000 km of the vehicle’s mileage, it is necessary to perform all the operations performed during the mileage of every 15,000 km, as well as:

Adjust thermal clearances in the gas distribution mechanism.

Replace the brake fluid in the brake system hydraulic drive,

Check the operation of the vacuum brake booster.

Clean the commutator, check for wear and lubricate the starter drive parts.

Lubricate the hood lock drive cable.

5. After every 60,000 km of vehicle mileage, it is necessary to perform all operations performed at every 15,000 km.

6. After every 75,000 km of the vehicle's mileage, it is necessary to perform all the operations performed during the mileage of every 15,000 km, as well as:

Replace the timing belt.

Replace the coolant in the engine cooling system.

How much does it cost and can you do it yourself?

Maintenance schedule for nissan qashqai The cost will always be different, of course it depends on the brand, model and class. But this is approximately 60 - 70% of the cost of the first maintenance. Personally, for my KIA OPTIMA it’s about 4,500 rubles, for example, for a new Solaris it seems to be about 3,000 - 3,500 rubles. But on AUDI, an “intermediate” one will cost about 12,000 rubles. NOT CHEAP!

However, many people ask the question - why don’t I do it myself, say, in my garage with my own hands? What a great idea, however, you need to choose exactly the right filter and oil (don’t be deceived). Otherwise, if the dealer notices, you risk voiding your warranty! Which is simply not acceptable for expensive cars. Therefore, it makes sense to overpay 1000 rubles. but go through the “officials”.

Now we are watching a short video on the topic

I’ll finish here, the information is useful, so we tell our friends and add it to our bookmarks. Sincerely yours, AUTOBLOGGER

(12 votes, average: 4.33 out of 5)

Similar news

Boring the cylinder block. Why does the engine need it and can it be done?

To turn over or not to turn over the engine until the cut-off? Is it necessary to do this

Diesel engine turbine. Oil, work and resource

Comments

Good day everyone, I decided to write my review of the 2010 Toyota Avensis. Just want…

TOP articles for the month

I have many different articles and videos on various gearboxes, for example here...

I already have an article on the website about choosing memory cards (you can see it here), it’s very...

In the article - is it possible to open windows when the air conditioner is running (you can read it here), I was asked...

How to change the oil on an 8 valve Kalina

According to the standards presented by the AvtoVAZ manufacturer, engine oil must be changed regularly every 15,000 kilometers. The recommendations should, of course, be taken into account, but they should not be treated as clear guidelines. Personally, I change the oil on my Kalina every 10,000 km, and the engine won’t get any worse, that’s for sure, but it’s probably better. Moreover, now there are quite a lot of counterfeit fuels and lubricants and the quality leaves much to be desired, so it doesn’t hurt to be on the safe side once again. So, below I will write about everything in detail.

Basic information about LADA Kalina

LADA Kalina has been produced since 2004; production of the popular second-generation car began in 2013. Kalina-1 is available in three body types: hatchback (model 1119), sedan (model 1118), station wagon (model 1117). There are cars available with petrol engines of three modifications: a 1.4-liter 16-valve engine with a power of 89 hp. s., 1.6-liter 8-valve engine producing 81 hp. s., 1.6-liter 16-valve engine producing 98 hp. With. The LADA Kalina-1 has only a manual transmission with five gears. The front axle has a classic MacPherson suspension, the rear axle has a beam with stabilizer, springs, and shock absorbers.

Passing periods

Maintenance of vehicles of this model in all body types and configurations must be performed within the time limits established by the automaker. They depend on the mileage or operating time, as well as the type of car engine. Typically the maintenance periods are as follows:

  • TO-0 at a mileage of 2000-3000 kilometers or about a few months after sale to a new car owner;
  • TO-1 is performed at 15,000 km or after a year of use if the car is used infrequently;
  • TO-2 – mileage of about 30,000 kilometers or after 2 years of use;
  • TO-3 - at a mileage of 45,000 km or three years;
  • TO-4 is done at a mileage of 60,000 kilometers or after four years of operation;
  • TO-5 – mileage 75,000 km or after 5 years;
  • TO-6 with a mileage of 90,000 kilometers or after six years.

After the last scheduled maintenance and the end of the dealer warranty, maintenance should be carried out approximately every 15,000 kilometers. At the same time, it is advisable to carry it out at official service stations to ensure high quality of work and the spare parts and consumables used. Dealership centers use only genuine certified parts and technical fluids for this purpose.

Basic information about LADA Kalina

LADA Kalina has been produced since 2004; production of the popular second-generation car began in 2013. Kalina-1 is available in three body types: hatchback (model 1119), sedan (model 1118), station wagon (model 1117). There are cars available with petrol engines of three modifications: a 1.4-liter 16-valve engine with a power of 89 hp. s., 1.6-liter 8-valve engine producing 81 hp. s., 1.6-liter 16-valve engine producing 98 hp. With. The LADA Kalina-1 has only a manual transmission with five gears. The front axle has a classic MacPherson suspension, the rear axle has a beam with stabilizer, springs, and shock absorbers.

Typical faults of LADA Kalina-1

Significant malfunctions with Kalina rarely occur, but there are a lot of various undesirable trifles. The car’s clutch is not very reliable and has an impressive service life, regardless of the type of engine, so it can malfunction after 40-50 thousand kilometers. The main source of malfunction is a broken clutch disc.

You need to constantly monitor the oil level in the engine - sometimes it leaks through the gaskets or burns through the piston rings. On the instrument panel there is only an oil pressure warning light, but there is no dial indicator. If the indicator lights up all the time, there is a possibility that the crankshaft is knocking.

A common malfunction of VAZ gearboxes is increased noise. It is difficult to get rid of the humming of the gearbox; sometimes neither replacing the bearings nor refilling with first-class transmission oil comes to the rescue. The transmission is noisy even in new cars, because of this the Volzhsky Automobile Plant has repeatedly completed the transmission.

A problematic element since the days of the VAZ 2108 and VAZ 2109 has been the thermostat in the engine, moreover, the valve in the thermostat was capable of jamming in any position. It's annoying when the engine doesn't heat up to the required operating temperature, but if the engine overheats, it's more problematic.

Electrical problems on LADA Kalina appear mainly of three types:

  • the ignition module is often damaged;
  • very soon the bearings and diode bridge “die”;
  • The window lift cable on the driver's door breaks.

When the ignition coil sparks, the first and fourth cylinders or the second and third cylinders stop functioning. The ESP cable breaks when it falls off the guides.

The main source of cracking noise in outer CV joints is insufficient lubrication; At the factory, in order to save money, they put it in sparingly. The consequence of this is severe wear of the hinges, and as a result, the “grenade” needs to be replaced.

A broken timing belt is a very annoying problem. And if on the 8-valve engine 21114 it is possible to change the belt drive and move on, then on engines 11194 or 21126 the valves bend from the oncoming push from the pistons, repairs will be quite expensive. In addition, a break can occur through a jammed water pump, because of this, if the pump begins to make noise, it must be replaced immediately.

2279-4-8-04 (Copy)

If there is no puller, we pierce the filter housing with a screwdriver (closer to the bottom, so as not to damage the engine fitting) and unscrew the filter, using the screwdriver as a lever. We clean the filter seat on the cylinder block from dirt and oil drips. Fill the filter with new engine oil to approximately half the filter volume and apply a thin layer of oil to the filter O-ring. We wrap the oil filter by hand until the sealing ring comes into contact with the cylinder block. Turn the filter another 3/4 turn to seal the connection. Pour 3.2 liters of oil into the engine through the oil filler neck and screw on the filler cap.

Attention! If your car is equipped with an automatic transmission, the engine lubrication system capacity is 4.4 liters.

We start the engine for 1–2 minutes. We make sure that the indicator of insufficient (emergency) oil pressure in the engine in the instrument cluster has gone out and there are no leaks from under the drain plug or from under the filter. We stop the engine and after a few minutes (so that the oil has time to drain into the oil pan) check the oil level in the oil pan. If necessary, bring the oil level to normal, tighten the oil filter and the drain plug.

The domestically produced AvtoVAZ Lada Kalina car is a common and sought-after option for those who are looking for an inexpensive and low-maintenance sedan, hatchback or station wagon. Imperfect assembly and not the best technical characteristics did not prevent Kalina from becoming one of the best-selling cars in Russia. The popularity is due to the price tags on these cars and the ability to independently service the Kalina.

One of the most common procedures is changing the oil on Kalina. The task is not difficult, but the main attention should be paid to the correct choice of working fluid in accordance with the operating conditions and condition of the engine.

Knock in the front suspension of Lada Kalina

Many motorists dread the day when strange knocking noises appear in the suspension, especially the front suspension, which increases with increasing speed. Of course, there is reason to worry, but at the same time, a car’s suspension is a strong and reliable unit that will clearly withstand a few more kilometers to a service station or garage, where it can be diagnosed.

There are four main reasons for the occurrence of knocks and squeaks in the front suspension of the Lada Kalina. Of the three possible causes of knocking, two of them can be eliminated independently.

So, the first reason why a knocking sound may occur in the suspension is the quality of the road surface. Yes, suspensions, even the most ideal and new ones, can squeak and knock on a bad road, even if this has not been observed before. To test this theory, you should drive onto a well-paved road and drive a few hundred meters; if there is no knocking, everything is fine with the suspension; if not, look at the second reason.

The second reason for the knocking sound, if it is accompanied by vibration in the steering wheel, is a malfunction of the steering, or rather the steering rack, or thinning of the brake discs. If the discs can be replaced independently, then in the case of steering, if you are not a level 80 mechanic, it is better not to flirt with it right away bring the car to the service station.

The third reason is the springs that have lost their tone, as a result of which the car body practically hits the suspension. You should not deal with this problem on your own - it is better to immediately take the car to a service station or service center, since self-repair may seriously damage the front suspension strut.

The fourth reason is a worn-out silent block, which is designed to dampen vibrations and knocks when driving. You can replace the silent block yourself; see the step-by-step replacement of the silent block in the Lada Kalina mono in the next paragraph.

Replacing front suspension silent blocks

Replacing the silent blocks of the Lada Kalina front suspension is necessary after 15-17,000 km, otherwise noises and knocks may be observed when driving. In most cases, the loss of its functions is observed after 15-17,000 km; knocking noises that appeared during this period of kilometers are a problem of faulty silent blocks.

Silent block

The silent block replacement diagram looks like this:

  • The machine is placed above a hole or ditch in order to be able to comfortably see the entire suspension. The movers are fixed by the wheels, we put the car itself on the handbrake, then it’s worth checking again that the car is stationary.
  • Use a jack to lift the car and remove the front wheel.
  • After this, you should fix the bolts of the ball joint with your hands, after which its fastenings are removed.;
  • The SPU nut is unscrewed, before this the ball-type support is knocked out into the lower part, after these manipulations the bolts are removed.
  • After removing the bolts, the sleeve blocking the lever is pulled out. After pulling out the bushing, the lever is pulled out.
  • There are marks on the lever that indicate the direction of installation of new silent blocks; this should be taken into account when installing new blocks.
  • The silent blocks must be lubricated at the point of contact with the lever. Using a vice or pliers, apply pressure to the blocks until they fall off.

The diagram is approximate and is for informational purposes to understand how many manipulations need to be made to replace silent blocks.

Replacement instructions

You can do the work yourself, since in fact, changing the oil on Kalina is carried out without the need for special tools or professional skills. Even beginners can cope with this task.

Follow the instructions to avoid mistakes and save yourself money on car repair services.

  1. It is more convenient to carry out work on an inspection pit or a lift. Apply the handbrake and warm up the engine to operating temperature. This will provide the oil with the necessary fluidity, which will allow it to leave the system as much as possible. Complete drainage of used oil guarantees efficient and long-lasting operation of fresh lubricant.
  2. Move under the car. Place an empty container near the drain plug where the liquid will drain. If the engine crankcase is equipped with protection, remove it first.
  3. Use a wrench, socket or hexagon to unscrew the drain plug. Let the oil drain completely. This will take about 20 minutes if the engine has been preheated to operating temperature. If the oil is cold, it will take a long time to drain, leaving a large amount of old lubricant in the system.
  4. While the oil is draining, go under the hood. Use a puller or do it yourself to unscrew the oil filter. You will find it to the left of the power unit at the bottom. If you don’t have a filter puller and you can’t move it by hand, take a screwdriver. It is pierced through the filter housing and used as a lever, turning it counterclockwise.

  5. After removing the filter, screw the drain plug back on. First look at the seal. If it is worn out, it is better to replace it to prevent possible oil leakage.
  6. Lubricate the seal of the new filter with oil, fill the housing with fresh grease to approximately 50% of its volume, and then screw it into place. The filter should be installed without using tools, but only by hand, so as not to damage the element.
  7. Now unscrew the plug to fill in new working fluid. Fill gradually, and not all 3 liters at once. Check the oil level periodically with a dipstick. You need to ensure that the dipstick shows the level exactly between o and “Max”. If you add too much liquid, you will have to drain some of it again.

  8. When ready, close the filler neck, start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. You can drive 5 - 10 kilometers, after which conduct a visual inspection under the bottom of the Kalina. Make sure there are no signs of oil dripping from the filter or drain plug. Also check the level when the engine has cooled down. This will allow you to obtain an objective assessment of the condition of the fluid in the crankcase.

If you change the consumables on your Kalina correctly and on time, including engine oil, the car will be able to serve for many years without causing any problems and requiring money only for scheduled maintenance.

LADA KALINA suspension (chassis) repair at a car service center in Vladimir

Replacing the rear shock absorberfrom 700 rub.
Replacing the front shock absorberfrom 700 rub.
Replacing the front wheel upper control armsfrom 800 rub.
Replacing the inner CV jointfrom 1000 rub.
replacing rear shock absorber bushingsfrom 200 rub.
replacing rear arm bushingsfrom 900 rub.
Replacing rear stabilizer bushingsfrom 400 rub.
replacing front arm bushingsfrom 1000 rub.
Replacing front stabilizer bushingsfrom 400 rub.
replacing subframe bushingsfrom 1900 rub.
replacing stabilizer bushingsfrom 500 rub.
Replacing the release bearingfrom 1500 rub.
Replacement of dampers and suspension bearingfrom 2000 rub.
Replacing the rear wishbonefrom 700 rub.
Rear hub replacementfrom 1100 rub.
Replacing rear springsfrom 2000 rub.
Changing differential oilfrom 200 rub.
Replacing the lower front wheel armsfrom 1000 rub.
Replacing the support bearingfrom 600 rub.
Replacing the shock absorber support bearingfrom 900 rub.
Replacing the shock absorber supportfrom 500 rub.
Replacing rear shock absorber bump stopsfrom 700 rub.
Replacing the front right armfrom 500 rub.
Replacing the outboard bearingfrom 1000 rub.
Replacing the rear gear input shaft bearingfrom 3000 rub.
Replacing the AC clutch bearingfrom 2500 rub.
Replacing the axle bearingfrom 1400 rub.
Replacing the rear suspension springfrom 600 rub.
Replacing the front shock absorber springfrom 1000 rub.
Replacing the front shock absorber springfrom 1000 rub.
Replacing the shock absorber bootfrom 500 rub.
Replacing the bottom bootfrom 400 rub.
replacing the ball joint bootfrom 100 rub.
Replacing the left inner CV joint bootfrom 900 rub.
Replacing the right outer CV joint bootfrom 900 rub.
Replacing the CV joint bootfrom 900 rub.
replacing caliper guide bootsfrom 300 rub.
Replacement of rear suspension reaction rodsfrom 700 rub.
Replacing the leverfrom 300 rub.
Replacing the rear suspension armfrom 600 rub.
Replacing the front suspension armfrom 700 rub.
Replacing the parking brake leverfrom 500 rub.
Replacement of silent blocks of rear upper armsfrom 1600 rub.
Replacing the silent blocks of the front upper armsfrom 1500 rub.
Replacing the silent blocks of the front lower armsfrom 1200 rub.
Replacing stabilizer silent blocksfrom 200 rub.
Replacing the front suspension silent blockfrom 800 rub.
Replacing rear suspension silent blocksfrom 1300 rub.
Replacing the oil sealfrom 200 rub.
Replacing the shock absorber strutfrom 900 rub.
Replacing the stabilizer linkfrom 300 rub.
Hub replacementfrom 900 rub.
Replacing the wheel bearingfrom 900 rub.
Replacing the rear wheel bearingfrom 900 rub.
Replacing the front left wheel bearingfrom 900 rub.
Replacing the front right wheel bearingfrom 900 rub.
Replacing the CV joint flangefrom 1200 rub.
Replacing the CV joint clampfrom 200 rub.
Replacing the ball jointfrom 600 rub.
Replacing studsfrom 800 rub.
replacing the studfrom 500 rub.
CV joint replacementfrom 900 rub.
Pressing out the silent blockfrom 200 rub.
Checking the condition of suspension partsfrom 100 rub.
Checking the condition of wheels and tire pressurefrom 100 rub.
Checking the ball joints of the steering traction mechanism and protective coversfrom 100 rub.
Wheel Bearing Adjustmentfrom 300 rub.
Caliper repairfrom 800 rub.
Remove/install front suspension armfrom 500 rub.
Grease for CV jointsfrom 100 rub.
Removal - installation of rear beamfrom 3000 rub.
Removal - installation of subframefrom 1500 rub.
Removal - installation of bottom bootfrom 200 rub.
Installing shock absorber boot dampersfrom 400 rub.
Installing shock absorber spacersfrom 800 rub.
Cleaning and lubricating the rear caliper guidesfrom 300 rub.
Cleaning calipers, developing guidesfrom 500 rub.
Cleaning/lubricating the front caliper guidesfrom 600 rub.
TOTAL

Repair request has been registered! Our specialist will contact you shortly.

Suspension (chassis) repair – you need repairs, diagnostics, maintenance for LADA KALINA in Vladimir.

Our car service can repair Lada Kalina cars!

To carry out the work “Repair of suspension (chassis)” we have the necessary tools and diagnostic equipment.

The specialists of our auto center will accurately determine the malfunction of the LADA KALINA and carry out high-quality repairs “Suspension Repair (Chassis)”, since they regularly undergo professional training and certification.

Come to our car service center, we will repair your Lada Kalina

Car service in Vladimir. LADA KALINA repair: maintenance, diagnostics, plumbing repair, body repair. LADA KALINA spare parts – original and high-quality analogues.

Entrust the maintenance of your LADA KALINA to professionals!

Why undergo MOT?

Carrying out maintenance in full and within the time frame recommended by AvtoVAZ helps to extend the life of trouble-free operation of the Lada Kalina and avoid premature failure of important components and assemblies. Professional maintenance at the dealership allows you to keep your car in working condition and ensure safety on the road.

Compliance with the deadlines and work plans helps you profitably sell your used car in the future. It is advisable even after the manufacturer’s warranty expires. The technical equipment and experience of dealership employees ensure timely identification and elimination of any faults in a professional, high-quality manner and with a guarantee.

Maintenance regulations for Lada Vesta: features

Each car owner operates his car at his own individual rhythm, so it is impossible to determine a single annual mileage rate for all drivers. AvtoVAZ has set the frequency of maintenance of its cars in such a way as to take into account the interests of both those who spend most of their lives behind the wheel and those who get into the car a couple of times a week.

Maintenance of Lada Vesta. Photo source: https://www.drive2.ru/l/539417107125764692/

Therefore, the moment when it is time to go to the service for the next maintenance of the Lada Vesta was established in two ways:

  • every 15 thousand kilometers;
  • no later than 12 months after the previous repair.

You need to base it on what happens first.

Design Features

The steering system of the Lada Kalina includes an electric power steering and a steering column that is adjustable in height and tilt. The steering mechanism is a steering rack with a variable transmission ratio. The rack engages with the engine crankcase through a gear having helical teeth, the pitch of which varies along the length of the rack. The figure shows the design of the Kalina steering rack.

The steering rack on Kalina is pressed against the gear by a spring. Friction is reduced by a plastic insert. The spring pressure is changed with an adjusting nut (the factory-set gap between the rack and the shaft is 0.1 mm). The second end of the rail rests against a plastic sleeve. Adjusting the gap helps eliminate knocking noises.

The steering system shaft is installed in bearings (one in the column bracket, the other in the electric booster housing). The column bracket is attached to the pedal bracket (front) and to the body bracket. The column bracket with the pipe is connected in the form of a hinge of two plates, which allows you to change the position of the steering wheel, and the range of movement is limited by the slots in the plates.

To fix the position of the pipe, there is a lever connected to the adjusting sleeve. It is screwed into a coupling bolt located in the slots of the plates. When you turn the lever, the bushing rotates, loosening the fixation of the plate, which allows you to change the position of the steering wheel. Springs between the plates and the bracket pull the pipe up when the fastening is loosened.

The steering system of the Lada Kalina has two tie rods and swing arms. The rod consists of external and internal tips and an adjusting threaded sleeve, which, when rotated, changes the length of the rod. The required adjustment of the rods is fixed with bolts. The rod is connected to the swing arm using an external tip that has a ball-type joint.

Kalina's electric power steering reduces the force applied to the steering wheel. It is assembled on the basis of an electric motor with a gearbox located under the steering system casing. The amplifier is controlled by an electronic unit that receives signals from sensors of vehicle speed, shaft rotation and steering torque.

The principle of operation of the amplifier is based on the fact that when the car is stationary, the torque on the steering shaft is the greatest, and when moving, it decreases with increasing speed. There is a power steering indicator on the dashboard.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=13qasRZk8gA

How to independently adjust and replace the heater dampers on a Lada Kalina

Probably every car enthusiast eventually encounters poor heater performance. The owners of the Lada Kalina, unfortunately, are no exception. Sometimes it is very difficult to understand the true reason for poor interior heating when a normally working heater suddenly begins to fail to cope with its task.

The problem of weak heating can be solved by replacing and adjusting the heater damper on the Lada Kalina.

What is the damper responsible for?

While the engine is running in the cooling system, the heated liquid moves through the heater radiator, while it heats the air flowing through it. The volume of air passing through the radiator and outside it is controlled by the main heater damper. Depending on how the temperature control knob is located on the dashboard, the amount of incoming air will depend.

You can distribute air movement throughout the cabin by turning the handle that regulates the position of the damper. But there are cases when the damper jams and it is impossible to properly regulate the flow of heat into the Kalina’s cabin.

If the problem is only with the valve, then you can correct the situation quite simply by tightening its cable. If after these actions the situation has not changed for the better, then you need to conduct a visual diagnosis of the condition of the mechanism and perform a number of simple steps.

How can I check the operation of the heater damper?

  1. Set the temperature control knob on Kalina to the extreme position of the blue sector, and the fan speed to the maximum value.
  2. Turn the damper control handle on the block and at the same time watch for changes in the direction of the air flow.

If the air flow remains unchanged, this indicates a breakdown of the mechanical control unit of the stove. Most likely, the rod fell off and stopped screwing onto the roller due to its malfunction. Or the second option could be that the damper is stuck. If your car has climate control, then check the damper micromotor and check the condition of the ventilation control unit, heater and air conditioner.

How to get to the damper?

To see where the central heater flap is located, you will need to partially disassemble the dashboard, and specifically, unscrew the beard. This is the location on the dashboard where the heater switches are located.

  1. Remove the ashtray.
  2. Squeeze out the 2 plugs located next to the emergency lights button.
  3. Remove all control knobs.
  4. Unscrew the 2 self-tapping screws of the center console and carefully pull it out, while prying it at the latches.
  5. Disconnect all wires.
  6. Now you can easily reach the damper.
  7. Replace the damper or its drive components.

Very often, the cause of the malfunction may be a broken damper drive mount. If the situation is not critical, then you can simply glue the part that has fallen off using superglue.

There are cases when the valve drive mount breaks off due to an undeveloped cable that is very difficult to lower. In this case, it must be developed manually, after which this problem should not arise.

How to adjust the heater damper on a Lada Kalina?

  1. The first step is to adjust the heater valve.
  • Remove the bracket that holds the cable sheath to the faucet body.
  • Remove the cable from the faucet lever.
  • Open the tap to the maximum.
  • Unhook the cable from the lever block.
  • Remove the old cable.
  • In the future, the tap may not be closed at all.

If you don’t like the method described above, you can use another one:

  • Adjust the length of the sheath and cable so that in the extreme right position of the lever on the block the tap opens completely.
  • Secure the cable located in this state using a latch.
  1. Then we proceed directly to adjusting the heater damper.
  • Remove the bracket that holds the cable sheath on the heater body and feel for the yellow galvanized lever located on the left.
  • Pull the lever towards you - this will be the maximum open state.
  • Adjust the length of the cable so that in the right position of the long lever on the lever block the valve is open to the maximum.
  • Lock it in.
  • Do not forget that with the help of one lever both dampers are simultaneously controlled: both the tap and the large one.

Disassembling the steering rack and repairing it when jammed

If steering rack repair is required, it begins with disassembling it. During repairs, a steering rack repair kit is used. Disassembly is carried out in a certain order. First, the adjusting nut is unscrewed, which sometimes requires considerable effort. Then the thrust bushing is removed.

If it is difficult to remove, you can use a mallet to lightly hit the rack body. The side plugs and boot are removed after cutting off the plastic fasteners. For preventative purposes, it is recommended to replace the boot with a new one in any case. The shaft is removed from the rack housing by hitting the body with a mallet.

Steering rack parts: 1 – rack bushing ring; 2 – rack support sleeve; 3 – steering gear housing; 4 – roller bearing; 5 – drive gear; 6 – ball bearing; 7 – retaining ring; 8 – protective washer; 9 – sealing ring; 10 – bearing nut; 11 – lock washer; 12 – boot; 13 – rack; 14 – protective cap; 15 – rack stop; 16 – sealing ring; 17 – retaining ring; 18 – stop nut; 19 – clamp; 20 – protective cover; 21 – inner tie rod end; 22 – connecting plate; 23 – locking plate; 24 – bolt securing the rod to the rack; A - mark on the boot; B - mark on the crankcase

Inside the freed cavity of the housing, a plastic sleeve will become noticeable, which can be removed using a screwdriver. It must be replaced with a new one from the repair kit. All old grease is removed from the cavity of the steering rack housing; the surface is thoroughly cleaned, washed and blown.

New lubricant is applied both inside and outside the housing

Lithol is used for this purpose. Particular attention should be paid to lubricating the gearing areas. All rack parts are inspected and, if necessary, replaced with new ones from the repair kit. If the steering wheel is jammed, it must be removed. This operation for Lada Kalina is carried out as follows

This operation for Lada Kalina is carried out as follows.

First, the airbags are disconnected from the battery, their locks and clamps are loosened. The cushions are released and moved to the side. The two horn wires are disconnected. On the steering wheel mounting shaft, in the place marked with an arrow, a mark is made on the location of the steering wheel before it is removed.

The steering wheel nut is loosened (but not completely unscrewed). When the steering wheel swings from side to side, it is tightened until it stops against the nut. Then you should align the car's wheels and ensure that the steering wheel is straight. The pin is removed and inserted into the switch block below the steering wheel.

Required replacement parts

Here we should highlight several main spare parts and consumables, which must be periodically changed on 2nd generation Lada Kalina cars.

Moreover, each element has its own regulated frequency.

  • Air filter. The engine air filter is changed every 30 thousand kilometers or every 2 years. That is, this is done upon reaching 30, 60 and 90 thousand km.
  • Cabin filter. It is recommended to replace it for the first time at 15,000 km. mileage Further, the replacement is performed every 15 thousand km, that is, within the framework of all regulated maintenance, starting with TO1.
  • Engine oil and oil filter. They are changed, like the cabin filter, that is, every 15 thousand kilometers. But Lada Kalina car owners advise carrying out the first replacement immediately after breaking in, that is, after a mileage of 2-3 thousand kilometers.
  • Brake fluid. It has to be changed much less often. The interval between replacements is 45 thousand kilometers.
  • Spark plug. An important element in engine operation. According to the regulations, they are changed simultaneously in each cylinder as part of maintenance every 30 thousand kilometers.
  • Timing belt. Its declared resource is impressive, so AvtoVAZ recommends changing it every 75 thousand kilometers.
  • Drive belt. It is changed in the same way as the timing belt, that is, after 75,000 km.
  • Coolant. According to the regulations, it is changed at the same intervals as belts.
  • Gearbox oil. The first fluid change is performed after 75 thousand km.
  • Fuel filter. The interval between replacements will be 30,000 km.
  • Lambda probe. It rarely fails, which is why the regulations specify a frequency of 75 thousand kilometers.

But it is important to understand that an earlier replacement may be required, as well as the replacement of other components not provided for by the regulations

Features of the regulations

Lada Kalina cars are subject to fairly standard rules for technical inspection and maintenance.

Only one significant feature can be highlighted. Starting from April 2013, the Lada Kalina does not require the first maintenance of vehicles that were equipped with 16-valve power units from the factory and filled with semi-synthetic oil with a viscosity coefficient of 5W30.

And if you purchased a Kalina with an 8-valve engine, then as part of the first maintenance, which has the official designation TO-0, that is, zero maintenance, you only need to adjust the valve clearances. This concludes the list of routine maintenance within the framework of initial maintenance with a mileage of 2-3 thousand kilometers for Kalina owners.

But there are subsequent works that are relevant depending on the number of kilometers traveled or the past years of operation.

Let's consider the routine maintenance prescribed on the official website of the AvtoVAZ company, without taking into account the zero (TO-0).

First maintenance

It is carried out after 1 year from the start of operation or after 15 thousand kilometers.

It is worth immediately noting that the verification activities that will be presented below are relevant within the framework of each maintenance. That is, these nodes are checked, adjusted, tightened connections during all maintenance.

Oil change during maintenance Lada Kalina

These mandatory diagnostic measures apply to the following components and systems:

  • body, bottom and wheel arches (corrosion, mastic peeling);
  • locks on doors and hood;
  • suspension arms and rods;
  • steering system;
  • tightness of the cooling system;
  • hoses, tubes and pipes of liquid systems;
  • brake fluid, its level sensor;
  • tension and wear of the timing belt;
  • generator;
  • wiring;
  • wheels and tires;
  • brake system;
  • battery;
  • head optics;
  • direction indicators, brake lights, etc.;
  • interior lighting;
  • power steering;
  • ECU errors;
  • handbrake;
  • sound signal (horn);
  • transmission;
  • Transmission.

Please note that only control and inspection work is carried out here. If something needs to be replaced or repaired, these operations are paid separately and are no longer included in the cost of maintenance.

If we talk about the regulated list of works within the framework of the first maintenance for Lada Kalina 2nd generation cars (conditionally the second maintenance), then the craftsmen must carry out:

  • adjusting the timing gaps and replacing the cylinder head cover gasket (relevant for 8-valve internal combustion engines);
  • changing oil and filter;
  • changing the cabin filter;
  • cleaning drainage holes;
  • Lubricating door hinges, keyholes and fuel filler flaps.

This concludes the first maintenance.

Second maintenance

This is carried out if the car has been in use for 2 years or the mileage has reached 30 thousand kilometers.


Replacing a car's cabin filter

Here is the current list of routine maintenance for the 2nd generation Lada Kalina model:

  • replacing the fuel filter;
  • changing the air filter;
  • Change of oil;
  • installing a new oil filter;
  • changing the cabin filter;
  • installation of new spark plugs;
  • lubrication of door hinges, locks, wells;
  • cleaning and lubricating battery terminals and clamps;
  • cleaning drainage holes in thresholds and doors.

As for diagnostics, the activities here are the same as for all other maintenance. They are listed above.

Third maintenance

TO-3, as prescribed by the regulations, is carried out on 2nd generation Lada Kalina cars with a mileage of 45 thousand kilometers or at an age of 3 years. What comes first is taken into account.

AvtoVAZ prescribes that as part of this maintenance you need:

  • adjusting timing gaps and replacing gaskets for an 8-valve engine;
  • changing oil and filter;
  • replacing the cabin filter and cleaning the drainage;
  • lubrication of hinges, door stops, gas tank flap, keyholes;
  • cleaning the drainage holes on doors and thresholds.

As you can see, the regulations prescribe a relatively small list of works.

Fourth maintenance

Here the list of works is slightly different. Relevant for a mileage of 60,000 kilometers, or if the 2nd generation Lada Kalina has been in use for 4 years from the date of purchase.

  • change the fuel filter;
  • install a new air filter;
  • change the engine oil;
  • replace the oil filter;
  • change spark plugs;
  • change the cabin filter;
  • lubricate hinges, locks, wells;
  • clean and lubricate the battery terminals;
  • clean the drainage of doors and thresholds.

The differences, as you can see, are minor. But they exist.

Replacing the timing belt during maintenance

Fifth maintenance

For owners of Lada Kalina cars, the fifth maintenance occurs when the mileage reaches 75,000 kilometers, or after 5 years from the start of operation.

As part of maintenance, the following work is performed:

  • the timing gaps are adjusted and the cover gasket on 8-valve engines is changed;
  • oil changes;
  • a new oil filter is installed;
  • the ventilation system filter is changed;
  • hinges, locks and holes are lubricated;
  • drainage is cleared.

Diagnostics are carried out in accordance with general standards relevant for each maintenance.

Sixth maintenance

The sixth maintenance is carried out at the 6th year of operation or after 90 thousand kilometers traveled.

Here the list of routine maintenance is more extensive. It consists of:

  • replacing the fuel filter;
  • replacing the air system filter;
  • changing the oil and oil filter;
  • replacing the coolant;
  • filling in new brake fluid;
  • replacing spark plugs in cylinders;
  • installation of a new timing belt;
  • lubricating hinges, gas tank caps, wells, etc.;
  • cleaning and lubricating battery terminals;
  • cleaning drainage holes on doors and thresholds;
  • replacing high-voltage wires if it is an 8-valve engine.

It is important to note here that as part of this maintenance, the coolant and brake fluid are actually changed for the first time. Subsequently, according to the current regulations, they are changed every 5 years of operation of the machine.

Keep in mind that some elements that are only inspected as part of maintenance may fail and wear out before the regulated period. They will have to be replaced or repaired at an additional cost.

Further, according to the established schedule, repeated maintenance is carried out every 15 thousand km.


Replacing brake pads in a Lada Kalina car

The importance of technical inspection and its standards for Kalina 2

Technical inspection is one of the main requirements for cars by the traffic police service. There are no exceptions to this rule. Maintenance is a routine check of your car in all respects - from engine operation to the braking system. The purpose of the procedure is to identify and correct technical problems and, as a result, extend the life of the car and ensure its safety. This is especially true for domestic cars, in particular the Lada Kalina, which cannot yet please with the reliability and durability of foreign cars. Thus, 1 Lada Kalina, which went on sale in 2007, was disappointing with the instability of its power units and transmission.

Designers are developing an optimal maintenance schedule

Other parts also wear out quite quickly. To ensure that your car does not fail on the road, you simply need to constantly monitor its working condition. 2 Lada Kalina, which debuted in 2013, turned out to be much better, brighter, more dynamic and reliable. The car has new units; when developing them, domestic engineers borrowed the experience of famous foreign concerns. But it is still advisable to check the 2nd generation Kalina more often, since there are a number of shortcomings here too.

And now some unexpected news. It turns out that back in mid-2013, the deadline for the first inspection for the 2nd Lada Kalina was changed. This has pleased millions of car owners, as it can significantly save time and money. This innovation also applies to the Lada Grant.

These 2 cars can undergo technical inspection after 3000 km, when control is really necessary. But there is one caveat here. Only 2nd generation Kalinas equipped with a 16-valve gasoline engine can arrive at the service station later, since this version turned out to be quite strong, durable, and capable of traveling 3,000 km without serious breakdowns. But Kalina, equipped with a simple 8-valve engine, will undergo Maintenance 1 on an equal basis with everyone else.

Now the interval between scheduled inspections of the 2nd generation Lada is 15,000 km.

How to determine if the Lada-Kalina muffler is faulty

To find a faulty exhaust system, you don’t have to be a car mechanic or have extensive experience in car repairs. To identify problems, you need to act in the following sequence:

Pay attention to noises that are made while driving. If the muffler is faulty, the sound will be quite loud. Extraneous noises also indicate problems with the exhaust system. Raise the car with a jack or drive onto an overpass and inspect the system body

A working device should have no holes or rust. The presence of traces of corrosion indicates that, most likely, there is a problem with the housing. While driving, you need to monitor the color of the exhaust: the periodic appearance of black and dense smoke will indicate that there are problems with the exhaust system. Start the engine and press the gas pedal for several minutes. Then turn off the ignition and check the engine temperature. During this time it should not get very hot. If it has risen significantly, it means that there are problems in the performance of the mechanism.

Extraneous noises also indicate problems with the exhaust system. Raise the car with a jack or drive onto an overpass and inspect the system body. A working device should have no holes or rust. The presence of traces of corrosion indicates that, most likely, there is a problem with the housing. While driving, you need to monitor the color of the exhaust: the periodic appearance of black and dense smoke will indicate that there are problems with the exhaust system. Start the engine and press the gas pedal for several minutes. Then turn off the ignition and check the engine temperature. During this time it should not get very hot. If it has risen significantly, it means that there are problems in the performance of the mechanism.

Quite often, the muffler body is exposed to corrosion, which leads to the appearance of holes and, as a result, a loud exhaust sound.

Malfunctions of various types can occur with the exhaust system, but the most common is unreliable installation of muffler elements. As a result of poor-quality connection, the unit quickly fails. In addition, common malfunctions include:

  • loss of tightness as a result of burning out of individual elements (corrugations, gaskets);
  • catalyst problems;
  • mechanical damage;
  • exposure to corrosion, which leads to the appearance of holes.

One of the malfunctions of the Lada-Kalina exhaust system is burnout of the corrugation

Maintenance cost

Here we will build on the regulated cost stated on the manufacturer’s official website.

  • Since TO-0 is carried out only for 8-valve internal combustion engines, other versions do not require this service. The service price for an 8-valve valve is 1.6 thousand rubles.
  • TO-1, depending on the engine, will cost from 4.9 to 6.3 thousand rubles.
  • For TO-2 you need to pay 6.1-7.1 thousand rubles.
  • TO-3 costs about 4.9-6.3 thousand rubles.
  • Prices for TO-4 range from 6.1 to 7.1 thousand rubles.
  • TO-5 costs 4.9-6.3 thousand rubles.
  • TO-6 will cost the car owner 11.5-12.3 thousand rubles.

These are only approximate prices, which may differ from actual prices for each specific case.

But the above figures show that the Lada Kalina is not only budget-friendly in terms of its market price, but also cheap in terms of maintenance.

Procedure for changing engine oil on Kalina

First of all, you immediately need to decide on the right tool so that everything is at hand and you don’t have to look for anything, although you need a minimum of keys.

Required Tools

  1. A 17mm wrench, preferably a socket wrench or a socket head - if you have a plug with outer edges for a regular wrench.
  2. Hexagon 12, if the plug is in a pan with internal edges.
  3. A puller for removing the oil filter, if one is needed at all, since in most cases it can be easily unscrewed by hand.

It is best to change the oil in a Kalina engine in a pit, but if this is not possible, then you can drive your front wheels onto two bricks, as I did, and the front of the car will become a little higher, making it easier to crawl under it.

Work progress

  • The first step is to warm up the Lada Kalina engine to operating temperature, although 70-80 degrees will be quite enough.
  • We take a container to drain the old oil and place it under the engine sump. For this purpose I used an old 5-liter bottle, cutting off the side part.
  • We unscrew the pan plug with a 17mm wrench or a hexagon, depending on which one you have screwed in

  • We place the drain container in such a way that the used oil gets into it; you should not shit on the ground. As you can see in the photo below, I was sent a film that I don’t mind throwing away later.
  • After waiting about 10 minutes until all the old oil has drained, unscrew the oil filter, which is located on the left side, almost at the very bottom of the engine (for those who are performing this procedure for the first time). It must be unscrewed by hand. If the oil filter does not unscrew, you can wrap it with a dry cloth, this will be even easier. If you cannot remove it, you need to use a special puller.

What problems does the Lada Kalina have?

Lada Kalina became the first fairly modern AvtoVAZ car with a sufficient set of up-to-date equipment for the comfort and safety of the driver and passengers. The model is recognized as reliable and unpretentious. But at the same time, sometimes even on practically new cars with low mileage, owners note the following problems:

  • Difficulty starting the engine in cold weather;
  • Cooling system malfunctions;
  • Starter failure;
  • Motor overheating;
  • Failure of high-voltage wires;
  • Frequent appearance of the Check Engine indicator on the dashboard for no apparent reason;
  • Problems with the fuel system;
  • Chips, scratches of paintwork;
  • Early body corrosion.

Many of these problems can often be fixed free of charge under warranty if it has not expired and it has been established that they were not the fault of the owner. In other situations, malfunctions have to be corrected at the expense of the car owner. Strict adherence to the rules of vehicle operation and the timing of scheduled maintenance work allows you to minimize the likelihood of these problems occurring or eliminate them immediately after detection. Visiting dealer service centers helps prevent expensive repairs and long car downtime.

The official Lada dealer in Moscow, TECHINKOM, offers scheduled maintenance and repairs Lada Kalina of any complexity using certified equipment and using original spare parts. You can find out the cost of work or make an appointment with specialists by calling the specified phone number or by leaving a request on the website for a call back from an employee.

Source

Rating
( 2 ratings, average 4.5 out of 5 )
Did you like the article? Share with friends:
For any suggestions regarding the site: [email protected]
Для любых предложений по сайту: [email protected]