Cars from the domestic manufacturer AvtoVAZ have been leaders in the Russian market for many years, and this applies to both new cars and used vehicles. This is due to the fact that the income level of the vast majority of people allows them to purchase and subsequently maintain economy class vehicles.
The VAZ has no obvious advantages, but if you remember its shortcomings, perhaps there are not enough fingers to list them all. Starting from the ambiguous design and ending with all possible problems with all units, there is nothing in Togliatti cars that users have not yet scolded them for. Nevertheless, they continue to be bought, despite their shortcomings, and all because it is precisely as a means of transportation that takes people from point A to point B that they perform their function quite satisfactorily. The most popular models are the same old “sevens”, “eights” and “nines”, which have been coming off the assembly line in the same form since the early 80s to the present day.
What to do if the VAZ-2110 takes a long time to warm up
Cars from domestic manufacturers have always had plenty of problems.
Yes, in the early and mid-80s of the last century, the Russian automobile company AvtoVAZ made a splash with its technologically equipped and affordable copies - and nothing has changed since then. True, nothing has changed in the bad sense of the word. The same technologies are used: low-power, albeit high-resource engines, primitive design and interior, low-quality interior materials, unpleasantly surprising safety test results. And this is not to mention the fact that the list of problems remains the same, despite the fact that every few years each model range undergoes a deep restyling. And this, for a second, is in 2022. In fact, the VAZ is only suitable as a means of transportation “from point A to point B”, because comfortable movements on it are completely excluded.
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1 Topic by Aleksandr.21124 2014-08-26 07:19:07
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Topic: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124. Who gave preference to whom - LUK, KRAFT, VALEO, SACHS and why? Or put it from Priora (VAZ-2170).
2 Reply from Admin 2014-08-26 07:39:44
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Re: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
3 Reply from Aleksandr.21124 2014-08-26 12:20:46
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Re: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
Already read this article. I'm thinking of buying Luk clutches from Priora. It is designed to transmit more torque.
4 Reply from Anton 2014-08-26 12:29:14
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Re: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
With our quality of spare parts it is impossible to determine which is better
5 Reply from iliaBkmz 2014-08-26 13:17:49
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Re: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
With our quality of spare parts it is impossible to determine which is better
I will support that what is true is true. Lots of marriage. I always took Valeo, I was satisfied with the price/quality. Now I would take the original in the car vase packaging if I could find it.
6 Reply from Anton 2014-08-26 13:19:44
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Re: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
sold out as one, they keep repeating the original, but in reality it depends on your luck
7 Reply from VAZ_10 2014-08-26 15:34:03
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Re: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
sold out as one, they keep repeating the original, but in reality it depends on your luck
8 Reply from klimashov.roman 2014-08-27 09:08:43
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Re: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
Everyone recommends Valeo because it lasts a long time and the quality is high, but its price is also high. They say Kraft sucks the most on all services, they discourage you from using it because there is no quality compared to others that are cheaper. I installed the original Lada for myself, I was satisfied with the price but the quality, I wouldn’t say it’s great, but for the money it’s acceptable. I changed the entire assembly so as not to climb there anymore. The only thing you can barely hear is the howl of the release button, but this is when you first start it up and then everything is quiet.
9 Reply from iliaBkmz 2014-08-27 10:39:29
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Re: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
On a VAZ it is always better to replace it as a set, since if the disk is worn out, the basket constantly overheats - for every second one. Metal because it's like that
10 Reply from Anton 2014-08-27 17:02:33
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Re: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
On a VAZ it is always better to replace it as a set, since if the disk is worn out, the basket constantly overheats - for every second one. Metal because it's like that
11 Reply from AntKuv 2014-08-27 18:32:49
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Re: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
My clutch is also a little tired and they advise me to use the Priora. Not only friends, but also service experts advise. In general, Luk and Kraft are highly praised. I'll most likely choose between these two.
12 Reply from Anton 2014-08-27 18:34:16
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Re: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
I don’t know, I didn’t like Kraft
13 Reply from AntKuv 2014-08-27 18:36:14
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Re: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
I don’t know, I didn’t like Kraft
Tell me what exactly you didn’t like?
14 Reply from Anton 2014-08-27 18:41:08
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Re: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
I don’t like his work itself, the jerks are incomprehensible and a bit harsh compared to the old one, it was an ordinary tenth company, I don’t remember. Although it may be a matter of habit, the rest seems to be normal for the fifth year, the driving style is active, so the reliability pleased me, to be honest, I didn’t expect it
15 Reply from Aleksandr.21124 2014-08-29 16:21:50
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Re: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
Today I bought and installed Luk clutches from Priora and a lightweight flywheel. In one thing I replaced a new clutch cable. Then the collapse of the co-creation happened. It turned out to be a very soft clutch (compared to what it was) and it moves off much easier - I think because of the lightweight flywheel. And it drives faster in any gear. It takes off from first without touching the gas - I slightly released the clutch right at the very beginning. In general, I'm satisfied.
16 Reply from Aleksandr.21124 2014-08-29 19:44:10
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Re: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
My photos - Clutch kit “LUK” VAZ 2170-2172 /Lada-Priora/, REINFORCED for VAZ 2110-2112
Flywheel VAZ 2110. Lightweight flywheel “Lada Sport Service”
17 Reply from iliaBkmz 2014-08-29 21:24:14 (2014-08-29 21:24:51 edited by iliaBkmz)
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Re: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
It starts off much easier - I think because of the lightweight flywheel.
To a greater extent, this is due to new components in general; on a VAZ, both the flywheel and the basket wear out over time + the springs are released due to overheating, and people are reluctant to change everything at once, which is why with a comprehensive replacement the difference is so noticeable. I’ve even stopped advising changing the flywheel when replacing the clutch - everyone unanimously insists that this is overkill.
In general, I did everything right.
18 Reply from Aleksandr.21124 2014-08-30 07:19:48
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Re: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
It starts off much easier - I think because of the lightweight flywheel.
To a greater extent, this is due to new components in general; on a VAZ, both the flywheel and the basket wear out over time + the springs are released due to overheating, and people are reluctant to change everything at once, which is why with a comprehensive replacement the difference is so noticeable. I’ve even stopped advising changing the flywheel when replacing the clutch - everyone unanimously insists that this is overkill.
In general, I did everything right.
Thank you! Based on your advice, I changed everything right away. I thought about it, read various forums and installed this kit - I’m very pleased. Before this, I had a very stiff clutch and the car drove differently.
19 Reply from EkoTren 2014-08-30 21:14:03
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Re: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
Today I bought and installed Luk clutches from Priora and a lightweight flywheel. In one thing I replaced a new clutch cable. Then the collapse of the co-creation happened. It turned out to be a very soft clutch (compared to what it was) and it moves off much easier - I think because of the lightweight flywheel. And it drives faster in any gear. It takes off from first without touching the gas - I slightly released the clutch right at the very beginning. In general, I'm satisfied.
How much lighter is the new flywheel?? I don’t think it’s because of it that the car starts easier. I recently changed the clutch (Sax assembly) and the flywheel (stock). I also noticed the same behavior in myself. So I agree with iliaBkmz( new components).
20 Reply from Aleksandr.21124 2014-08-30 22:49:42 (2014-09-01 21:19:43 edited by Aleksandr.21124)
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Re: Which clutch to choose for VAZ - 21124.
Lightweight flywheel “Lada Sport Service” VAZ 2110 - Weight: 4.1 kg The weight of the standard flywheel of the VAZ 2110 is 6.6 kg. lada2111.рф/tuning-kapota/820-ob … -2110.html
Advantages of a lightweight flywheel: Dynamics improves, the car becomes more playful, responds more clearly to opening (acceleration) and closing (engine braking) of the throttle. The load on the main bearings is reduced. The standard flywheel is made heavier for smoother operation (no obvious pick-ups).
You can argue or not believe it - but my car didn’t have any more horses, and it began to accelerate faster from any gear. And with the first one I couldn’t get going on my own before - that is, I don’t press the gas, I just slowly release the clutch.
Long engine warm-up on a VAZ-2110 with 16 valves
The reason that the temperature of the internal combustion engine remains the same, despite a fairly large amount of time spent on warming up, in most cases lies in a malfunction of the thermostat. In such cases, one of its valves gets stuck due to a defect and does not change position even after the ignition is turned on. Thus, the circulation of the working cooling fluid will always occur in a large circle, preventing the engine from reaching the optimal operating temperature.
Now a little lifehack. Take the key (17 or 19) in your hands and knock on the thermostat, but not too hard (don’t break it). This often helps, but not for long. The best way to repair it is to replace it.
It may seem to some that this is not a problem at all, especially in the summer, since the lower the temperature of the internal combustion engine, the more the risk of overheating and failure is eliminated. However, precisely because the operating temperature range has not been reached, all propulsion systems do not operate efficiently enough. Sharp acceleration in such cases is unacceptable - wear of parts at low temperatures increases many times over. In addition, the interior of the VAZ-2110, the thermal insulation of which deserves far from the most flattering words, needs to be thoroughly warmed up, especially when it comes to winter use. And if the thermostat malfunctions, the air emanating from the dampers simply will not heat up, and passengers will have to put up with discomfort throughout the entire trip.
Main reasons - looking for problems during long warm-up
There can be quite a lot of reasons. They are not always hidden in the units and components of the machine; sometimes the quality of service becomes a more serious precondition. To correctly find the problem, you should check all possible breakdowns and make sure there are no minor troubles. It is quite possible that you can fix this problem without visiting a service station. Here are important ideas to check when this problem occurs:
- incorrectly selected antifreeze or poor quality of technical fluids in the car’s cooling system, this causes various problems with the warming up process;
- unsuitable or low-quality oil - if the viscosity is too high, the lubricant hardens, and the engine cannot gain normal speed and generally warm up adequately in winter;
- failure of temperature sensors - this could be a thermostat opening sensor or a sensor showing the temperature on the instrument panel, they should be checked first;
- thermostat - it is quite possible that the device is stuck in the open position, in which case the liquid will constantly circulate in a large circle, cooling in the radiator;
- air and ice plugs in the cooling system - plugs often prevent fluid from circulating, which creates an extremely unpleasant effect for the engine and the driver of the car.
In VAZ cars, the problem of prolonged engine warm-up is often associated with the thermostat. You should not install Chinese analogues; they will break down before you even have time to enjoy a normal car ride. But factory products last longer, but require high-quality coolant. So, often the problem with warming up a car is tied precisely to the quality of its service and the high cost of purchased materials.
How to fix the problem
The logical solution to the problem, in this case, is to replace either the thermostat itself or the component thermoelement. Both options are quite cheap, since we are talking about a domestic manufacturer, there is no need to buy any analogues. This procedure can easily be carried out independently, but if you do not know the technical component of the VAZ-2110, it is still better to contact specialists at service stations. The most important thing is to first drain all the antifreeze in the system.
As a result of the replacement, the car’s instrument scale should show an engine temperature of at least 90 degrees after 20-30 minutes of warming up or 10-15 minutes of driving without prior waiting. The thermostat scale must be monitored periodically, at least once every 15 minutes of travel. A quick glance is enough to ensure that the engine temperature is within the required range, which will automatically indicate the integrity and suitability of the thermostat itself.
Long warm-up can also be a consequence of incorrectly selected antifreeze for the cooling system, but such cases, as practice shows, are rare.
For what other reasons does the car take a long time to warm up to operating temperature?
- The reason for the early start of the radiator is incorrect ECU settings . Here it all depends on the settings of your firmware, but by installing the BC (on-board computer), you can adjust the temperature at which the fan turns on (not all BCs have this function). On a stock VAZ 2114 2113 2115 the fan should turn on at 105 degrees.
- A faulty thermostat can also be the cause of long warm-up (but we wrote about this above). It can constantly circulate coolant in a large circle, which is why the engine takes a long time to warm up. To check the thermostat, read the article: VAZ thermostat.
- Consequences of illiterate chip tuning . In principle, this and the second point can be linked together, because again, the reason lies with the ECU settings.
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Source
Principle of operation
Coolant enters the radiator through the thermostat. This is a large circle of fluid circulation. The thermostat usually opens at a temperature of 100 degrees Celsius. If the temperature has not reached this limit, then the liquid moves in a small circle. A thermostat malfunction is manifested by improper opening of the valves.
When the thermostat is closed, the engine overheats, and a constantly open one leads to low temperatures, since the liquid will only flow in a large circle.
Due to irregular changes of antifreeze or antifreeze, use of running water or mixing of coolants, various deposits in the form of scale may accumulate in the system. In this case, the thermostat will inevitably jam in one of its positions.
The VAZ 2110 engine takes a long time to warm up 16 valves reasons
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The car takes a long time to warm up 21124 1.6 16
It’s -2 outside, near the house, while I’m clearing the snow, it idles for about 5 minutes, then I drive around the city for 15 minutes to work, for a total of about 20 minutes, and the coolant temperature does not rise above 70 degrees. (the stove works at low speeds (1-2), set at 26 degrees)
For some reason it seems to me that the coolant should heat up faster
The car takes a long time to warm up 21124 1.6 16
why isn't it normal? The heater radiator works normally, there is no recirculation. If the movement is calm, then maybe there is simply not enough heat generated by the engine.
try turning off the stove before the temperature rises, and then when you turn on the stove, see if the temperature drops.
The thermostat was also at fault. At first I looked at the car, feeling the lower pipe. Then I opened it and looked - it closed completely. Just in case, I replaced the thermoelement, having first tested it at home in a saucepan with a thermometer. I hardly noticed any effect. IMHO, miscalculations of the designers: a large hole of a small circle (15mm) and at the same time constant circulation through the stove with a much larger mass of 16kL engine, which also needs to be warmed up, well, the efficiency of an engine with phased injection. Treatment: 1. Reduce the hole or replace it with a new thermostat, where the hole is only 10mm (confirms the version of miscalculations) 2. Insulate the engine, especially the front part, so as not to overcool it with the oncoming flow of cold air. 3. Place a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator if you drive mainly short distances. You can leave the corner where the top pipe is connected open.
The engine takes a long time to heat up
Many models of the tenth family, such as VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112, often have problems with the cooling system. One of these problems is poor engine warming up, as well as low operating coolant temperature.
Of course, such a malfunction can even be a blessing if we keep in mind summer operation, but in winter, when the operation of the heater is especially important, the driver will have a hard time inside the car.
In practice, this may look different, but it is enough to give a real example so that everyone understands what we are talking about. For example, one of the experimental machines had the following problem:
- long engine warm-up in winter and summer;
- frequent formation of air jams in winter;
- The coolant never warmed up above 80 degrees.
If such a problem arises, the solution would be to replace the thermostat or thermoelement. To do this you will need a minimum of tools:
- 7 and 8 mm heads.
- screwdrivers, flat and Phillips.
- 5 mm hexagon.
Of course, we first drain the antifreeze or antifreeze, depending on what is in your system. Then we replace the thermoelement.
Typically, factory thermoelements have a valve opening temperature of 85 degrees. In this case, after installing such a part, the mark of 90 degrees is stable. Now the stove will have hotter air, in winter the car will warm up obviously faster, since in a small circle the liquid warms up more efficiently.
Source
Car cooling system
The cooling system is made according to the classical design. The coolant circulates in large and small circles. Its transition from one circle to another is carried out automatically using a thermostat. The antifreeze is cooled in a radiator, which is made of aluminum for better heat transfer.
To prevent engine overheating during long-term operation in low gears, the car is equipped with a fan that turns on automatically when the temperature reaches a certain value. The main causes of malfunction of the VAZ 2110 car:
- thermostat failure;
- the fan does not work;
- airlock;
- coolant level is low;
- dirty engine surface.
Any of these reasons may cause the engine to become very hot. As a result, the machine will lose a significant part of its power.
The engine does not reach operating temperature
You can monitor the temperature readings of the power unit directly from inside the car. The dashboard of all modern cars has a small information field, usually round or semicircular in shape, showing the driver the coolant temperature readings. This is the device that gives an idea of the temperature conditions in which the engine is operating at a given time.
If the temperature gauge does not reach 90 degrees during a long trip, you should seriously think about finding the cause of the deviation from the normal operation of the power unit. It is not recommended to delay its diagnosis, because prolonged operation of the motor in this mode will lead to wear of its internal components.
The fact is that the electronic control unit, which is popularly called the “brains” of the car, recognizes an engine that has not reached the nominal temperature as cold, and therefore the fuel system injects an over-enriched mixture.
Working in this mode leads to heavy carbon deposits on the spark plugs and, accordingly, on the internal elements of the engine, which in the future will lead to the need for a major engine overhaul.
Reasons why the motor does not heat up to 90 degrees
If you begin to notice that during a trip the power unit does not heat up to the required temperature, you should check the functionality of the elements of the engine cooling system and find out why the engine temperature does not rise. Most often, the internal combustion engine does not reach the required temperature for several reasons.
The pipes are not tightened sufficiently, resulting in air leaks. In this case, minor leaks of coolant may be noticeable. To eliminate all these flaws, you need to check the tightness of the connecting tubes and how tightly the clamps are tightened on them, which, if necessary, should be tightened tighter.
The thermostat has failed - this element directs the flow of coolant circulating through the system: at first, when the engine warms up, it is closed and releases antifreeze or antifreeze only in a small circle; when the engine operating temperature approaches 80-90 degrees, the thermostat begins to open, releasing coolant into a large circle. When a thermostat fails, it means that it is stuck in a certain position that does not allow the power unit to reach normal temperature conditions. Replacing the thermostat will help get rid of this problem.
The coolant temperature sensor (abbreviated as DTOZH) is not working correctly - this is a rather complex thermoelement, thanks to which the coolant temperature readings are displayed on the information block on the car’s instrument panel. Thus, due to the incorrectness of the readings transmitted by the sensor to the dashboard, one may get the impression that the engine does not heat up to the required temperature, but in fact it operates in the correct temperature regime.
In order for the information transmitted by the sensor to correspond to reality, it is worth replacing it with a new one.
Car owners often encounter a problem where the engine does not heat up to operating temperature. Usually they do not pay attention to it right away, since not everyone knows why low engine temperature is dangerous. For normal operation, 100 degrees is required.
The question is why the engine does not heat up well and becomes hot when cold weather sets in, when it is not comfortable to be inside the car due to the low temperature. In addition, consumption increases significantly, the engine wears out faster, the car drives worse, and the level of toxic substances in the exhaust gases increases.
Consequences of untimely elimination of defects
Not all drivers realize what consequences can be caused by an engine overheating, and continue to drive with a constantly running fan or frequent overheating. So, the consequences of strong engine heating are divided into 3 stages, which are worth considering separately.
Slight overheating
If the engine overheats for up to 10 minutes, the consequences may be minor. Thus, cracks will appear in the pipes of the cooling system, the temperature sensor will fail, the oil scraper rings will become deformed, and the valve and camshaft seals will melt. Also, the valves will burn out, and oil will enter the combustion chambers, which will be marked by the release of black smoke from the exhaust system.
Consequences of slight overheating, namely burnout of valves.
Significant overheating
With significant overheating, deformation occurs, or rather deflection of the cylinder head. To eliminate these consequences, you will have to dismantle the cylinder head and submit it for surface grinding. Thus, it turns out that the block head is subject to major repairs.
Burnout of the piston group due to significant overheating Measuring the deflection of the cylinder head using a ruler
Severe overheating
With severe overheating, the walls of the cylinder block become deformed and burn out, causing melting of the piston group, deformation of the connecting rods, or even breakage of the crankshaft. Thus, the engine cannot be repaired, since usually the walls of the power unit collapse and their restoration is impossible.
Burnout and deformation of pistons after severe overheating Melting of the walls of the cylinder block after overheating
How does the engine warm up?
Each serviceable unit has a different warm-up time. It is influenced by:
- degree of forcing;
- engine type: diesel or gasoline;
- cooling system condition;
- stove operation;
- quality of antifreeze or antifreeze;
- outside air temperature;
- type and viscosity of engine oil.
The characteristics of the oil are rarely taken into account, but experts believe that this is necessary. Various friction reducing additives and the base stock, synthetic or semi-synthetic, affect the performance in the range of 5–7 degrees. Thus, the engine will heat up faster with thinner synthetic oil.
The engine temperature gauge does not rise often due to a malfunction of the thermostat.
It is with this unit that the system check always begins if the engine takes a long time to warm up to operating temperature.
Reasons for fast or slow engine warm-up
An internal combustion engine is a kind of furnace in which, during the combustion of working mixtures, the temperature in the cylinders reaches 2000 °C and higher. At such temperatures, the metal begins to lose its strength characteristics, which can lead to problems associated with the operation of the engine, or, in general, send it to the cemetery. To avoid such consequences, cars are equipped with a cooling system that limits the temperature limits of the engine, thereby ensuring the correct conditions for its operation. A car engine is a metal mechanism, which, unfortunately, is not perfect. And various types of failures in its operation are still present. The most famous are when the engine gets very hot, or, conversely, takes a long time to warm up. What causes this?
Checking the Thermostat
To diagnose the malfunction, you should contact a service specialist. However, you can check the thermostat yourself. The cold engine is allowed to idle for approximately 10 minutes. After this, you need to check the radiator pipes. If the thermostat is functioning properly, the hoses will not become hot. The temperature rises only at the moment when the coolant begins to circulate in a large circle.
The coolant enters the large circle only after reaching operating temperature. If the pipes begin to heat up before the specified point, you should immediately contact a technician for further diagnosis and troubleshooting. There are also more professional diagnostic methods using special sensors. Such a check can be carried out at a service station.
If the device does not open and close completely, partial overheating may occur or the temperature will rise, but very slowly. Also, the wedge can be observed only periodically.
Any specified defect requires careful examination and repair. If you do not have the necessary skills and minimal knowledge about the internal structure of a car, you should contact qualified car service specialists.
To remove the thermostat, you must first get rid of the liquid in the system. It is important to wait until the entire system has cooled down before replacing the part. Removing the thermostat is quite simple; to do this, just unscrew the three bolts located on the cover and remove it together with the thermostat.
Taking into account all the design features of this model, it can be replaced with an identical or suitable analogue. Well-known brands produce units that can be interchanged, so there are no difficulties with selection. In any case, all manipulations must be carried out by a person who knows exactly what needs to be done, takes into account the make, year of manufacture, and mileage of the car.
It is very important to consider that the cost of this part is quite low, so it would be more appropriate to replace it than to repair it. Thus, you can get rid of problems with low engine temperature for the entire winter season.
Since when replacing the thermostat you will have to drain the fluid, it is worth checking the engine for performance before the start of the winter season. Many car owners pour antifreeze into the system and then face the need to replace the unit, therefore paying twice for the coolant.
What can be dangerous about a cold engine?
If you notice that the engine has not warmed up to operating temperature and it cannot rise, then you should start immediately troubleshooting, as the consequences can lead to serious expenses for repairs.
The electronic control unit installed on modern cars recognizes an unheated engine as a cold one. If it cannot warm up and the engine temperature does not rise, then an over-enriched mixture is supplied.
When the system has to operate in this mode, the spark plugs fail due to the appearance of carbon deposits on them and on the internal elements. Thus, you can significantly reduce the service life and face major repairs, which cost a lot of money.
If the engine does not warm up to operating temperature, you should immediately contact a car service to diagnose the problem so that similar malfunctions do not occur in the future.
Choosing a high-quality clutch for ten
For example, we have already decided on the brand. More precisely, with the price. Since the prices for all kits are different - from cheap domestic ones for 2500 rubles and ending with German clutches for 7-8 thousand.
However, no one is safe from counterfeiting, so we check each element of the kit visually upon purchase.
Driven clutch disc
The driven clutch disc from Valeo is a good combination of price and quality.
- First, we look at the surface of the friction linings - there should be no cracks or irregularities There can be no scuffing or roughness. Moreover, it is unacceptable for oil or other technical fluids to get on the friction clutch . It would seem that these are basic things, but manufacturers of counterfeit or very cheap spare parts are not able to comply with these conditions.
- Next we look at the splines. There should be no damage, scuffing is excluded.
- We pay special attention to the quality of the riveting. If you look closely, you can see that the shape is riveted. It is different for branded wheels and fake ones - the rivet should be uniform and not differ from rivet to rivet.
- We look at the damper springs, which should not have any play or displacement.
- In addition, pay attention to the markings - as a rule, they will be applied to the damper plate. It could be a hologram, a simple stamp or laser marking, but there must be something that says about the manufacturer.
Clutch basket
Here the selection criteria are the same.
LUK clutch basket – German quality for a Russian car.
- Initially, we inspect the quality of the rivets and plates. All rivets must be identical, there should be no backlash. All rivets must be laid without distortions or displacements of the axes; there should be no cracks or chips on the heads.
- The basket body itself is made by stamping, so we look at its quality - there should absolutely be no nicks, cuts, chips or scratches. There should be no burrs in the holes.
- The pressure plate itself deserves special attention . It is cast from cast iron, after which the working surface is polished. It is the mirror of the pressure plate that will tell a lot about the manufacturer - cavities, scratches, microcracks, unevenness, and radial scratches are excluded. If there are no defects, then the disc is made of high-quality cast iron and processed in accordance with technology and high-quality equipment.
Other reasons
A malfunctioning thermostat may not be the only reason why the engine does not reach operating temperature.
If the pipes were not tightened well during the previous repair, the car owner is faced with air leaks. Coolant begins to leak. If this is the problem, then you should tighten the clamps for a tighter fit of the tubes and add fluid to the required level in the expansion tank.
In this case, the car owner will see a low temperature on the dashboard, which is insufficient for operation. In fact, the engine will overheat and may even boil.
A faulty temperature sensor can cause the engine to feel like it takes a long time to warm up or may not heat up at all. In this case, the engine works properly. The sensor transmits temperature status data to the dashboard. If it does not work correctly, then the readings will be incorrect. Replacing this part will bring all indicators back to normal.
The problem with the sensor is quite serious on modern cars equipped with electronics. Here again you will have to deal with supplying an over-enriched mixture and replacing many other parts.
Any problem that arises must be resolved with the help of a competent specialist. If you do not have the necessary knowledge and skills, you should contact a car service center. Experienced technicians will help eliminate the problem and prevent its occurrence in the future.
Quite common on gasoline and diesel cars. At the same time, many car owners do not pay due attention or do not notice this malfunction at all, especially in the warm season. The reason is simple - drivers are more afraid of overheating, but not everyone knows about the consequences of driving on a cold or insufficiently warmed up engine. So it turns out that if a gasoline or diesel engine does not reach operating temperature, the arrow of the temperature indicator on the dashboard does not reach the desired value on the scale, you can still drive. However, it should be taken into account that engine wear increases, the fuel appetite of the unit increases, the exhaust becomes toxic, the engine “pulls” worse, etc.
Typically, problems that cause the engine temperature not to rise become relevant with the onset of cold weather. The main sign of a problem is deterioration in the operation of the stove. In other words, the operating comfort of the vehicle decreases due to the low temperature in the cabin, which forces the driver to take action. Next we will talk about what to do if the engine operating temperature is low, the engine takes a long time to warm up to operating temperature, etc.
Let's sum it up
In this article, we examined one of the most common reasons why the engine does not warm up, may cool down while driving, the engine temperature does not rise above 70 degrees, etc. Let us add that in the latter case, on a car with an unknown history, it often turns out that the previous owner had previously installed a too “cold” thermostat. In parallel with this, other malfunctions of the cooling system may occur, as a result of which the internal combustion engine does not heat up.
It should also be noted that repairing the device is impractical given its relatively low cost. For this reason, instead of descaling the thermostat and trying to eliminate its jamming, it is better to immediately install a new element on the machine.
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