Design of the Priora internal combustion engine cooling system
Below in the picture you can see a diagram of the engine cooling on a Priora with a description of its components.
The cooling system includes the following elements:
- Cooling radiator;
- Water pump (pump);
- Thermostat;
- Interior heater;
- Expansion tank and its cover;
- Cooling Fan;
- ICE shirt;
- Pipes;
All these details seriously affect the operation of the SOD, namely its effectiveness. Failure or improper operation of one of the parts can lead to malfunctions in the operation of the internal combustion engine and its overheating.
Why does the 16-valve VAZ-2112 engine heat up: reasons, repairs
Every car owner was faced with the fact that the 16-valve VAZ-2112 engine began to heat up. If you look at the dashboard indicator, the arrow tends to the red zone, and liquid boils in the expansion tank - this means that there is a malfunction in the cooling system.
Causes of engine overheating
The temperature indicator needle has entered the red zone, which means the engine is overheating
Many car enthusiasts remember the reasons for the effect on old Zhiguli cars. On 16-valve engines, the reasons for this effect are almost the same. Let's consider what reasons may cause the main power unit to begin to overheat:
- The system is clogged.
- Thermostat stuck.
- Damage to the pump. Replace the pump. About choosing a pump for a 16 valve engine here.
- Radiator.
- Cooling sensor malfunction.
- The cooling fan does not operate (see “fan relay).”
All these problems can cause the engine to overheat.
Elimination methods
To eliminate the causes of engine heating, it is necessary to establish the epicenter of the effect. To do this, it is worth checking each node sequentially. After identifying the problem, it is worth finding the exact cause and eliminating it. So, let's consider the sequence of actions.
Engine cooling system diagram
Radiator and pipes
One of the reasons for engine overheating may be that the radiator and pipes become clogged, which affects the circulation of fluid in the system, and can also lead to cracks in the pipes and breakdown of the radiator, which will lead to leakage of coolant.
If there is insufficient coolant in the system, the power unit will heat up faster and take a long time to cool down, and the cooling fan will run almost continuously.
Radiator and cooling system pipes
The method for solving the problem is quite simple - dismantling the radiator from the system and cleaning it both outside and inside.
The second stage will be to inspect the pipes for leaks and replace worn-out products. As practice shows, many motorists install kit kits (tuning versions) of the radiator and pipes to extend the service life of the cooling system.
Pump (water pump)
One of the main reasons for overheating is that there is backlash in the water pump . It is quite easy to determine this malfunction, because a corresponding howl appears in the pump area. Also, a sign of a malfunction may be that liquid begins to leak from the pump shaft. The problem can be fixed quite easily by replacing the water pump.
Engine mounted water pump
Thermostat
The thermostat is the first place to look for a problem.
Every 50 thousand kilometers, it is recommended to change it, but this factor is not all true, since the performance of the part is influenced by factors such as the condition of the coolant, the quality of the installed part, etc.
So, when the thermostat is stuck on a small circle, the engine heats up more often than usual, even when driving on the highway, where there is enough oncoming air flow for the system to have time to cool itself.
Reasons why Priora overheats
There can be many reasons for overheating, but they are all of the same type and finding the cause of this illness is quite simple.
Cooling radiator
This part serves to cool the liquid, which, passing through the radiator, is cooled by a counter flow of air and then enters the engine, cooling it. When a radiator becomes dirty or damaged due to an impact, its tubes become bent, preventing the free flow of fluid through the system, thereby preventing the fluid from cooling to the required temperature. Due to this problem, overheating of the internal combustion engine is possible.
The problem can be solved by replacing the radiator with a new one, or by flushing it.
water pump
The water pump is used to help circulate coolant through the system. The pump is a part with a gear, shaft, housing, impeller and bearings. Quite often on a Priora it happens that the impeller on the pump breaks or turns, and this leads to the impossibility of antifreeze circulating through the system and, consequently, to overheating of the internal combustion engine.
The problem is solved by replacing the pump with a new one.
Thermostat
To limit engine cooling and maintain its optimal temperature, a special thermostat valve is used. It stops the circulation of fluid through the radiator, thereby heating the engine to operating temperature; as soon as the optimal temperature is reached, the thermostat opens and allows fluid to flow through the cooling radiator.
It happens that the thermostat gets stuck in the closed position and this leads to overheating of the motor. It is quite simple to determine this malfunction; you just need to touch the lower radiator pipe; it should be hot; if it is colder than all the others, it means that the thermostat is jammed and must be replaced.
Cooling Fan
To cool the engine of a car sitting in a traffic jam, a special fan is used, which simulates the flow of air encountered and cools the radiator. If this part fails, then there will be no cooling of the engine in the plug, which will lead to overheating of the engine.
If the engine cooling fan does not turn on, you need to check the temperature sensor, fuse and power connector.
Engine pipes
After any repairs, some pipes may sometimes become bent, which will lead to the cessation of fluid circulation through the system and overheating of the internal combustion engine. If the Priora is heating up, then it is necessary to check the pipes for integrity and compression.
Why does the engine get hot on a 16-valve Priora?
View full version: Engine gets hot. What could be the reason?
Hi all. car 99. The engine constantly warms up and the Carlson switches on. I already got it) I didn’t notice this back in the fall. Antifreeze level in the expansion tank is at MAX. You have to constantly turn on the heater at 2nd speed so that the engine cools down somehow. If I switch the fan to cold air, the temperature immediately goes off scale. Today I actually started sneezing (I think I overheated), because... the temperature was about 115 degrees. Then it stood for a while - it cooled down and everything was gutted. who can advise? What can be wrong? Maybe some tap is closed somewhere? because More than once after that the car was at 100 and the mechanics could fix it.
Priora engine overheating. How to fix?
When the engine is running, a properly functioning cooling system maintains optimal temperature conditions. Malfunctions in the cooling system can lead to engine overheating.
If you miss this moment, unpleasant consequences may arise: breakdown of the head gasket, warping of the head and, as a result, complex and expensive engine repairs.
The instrument cluster of any car has a coolant temperature indicator. If the engine overheats, the gauge needle approaches the red zone.
How to check the cooling system
At the first signs of overheating, if the temperature gauge needle has gone into the red zone, but no clouds of steam are escaping from under the hood, turn on the maximum interior heating mode. This is necessary in order to reduce the temperature of the coolant in the engine cooling system.
Turn on the hazard lights, depress the clutch pedal and, using the inertia of the car, try to carefully move to the edge of the roadway and stop as far to the right as possible on the side of the road, and if possible, outside the roadway. Let the engine run for a couple of minutes at normal idle speed with the heater on full blast.
Do not stop the engine immediately! The only condition is to maintain the tightness of the cooling system. If the hose bursts or comes off, or another leak occurs other than fluid escaping from under the expansion tank plug, the engine will have to be stopped immediately!
After stopping the overheated engine, local overheating of the coolant begins at the points of contact with the most heat-stressed engine parts and the formation of vapor locks. This phenomenon is called heat stroke.
Note that on our website there is already a publication about replacing the radiator of the cooling system on a Lada Priora with your own hands.
2. Open the hood and inspect the engine compartment. Determine where the steam is coming from. When inspecting the engine, pay attention to the presence of coolant in the expansion tank, the integrity of the rubber hoses, radiator, and thermostat.
Never open the expansion tank cap immediately. The liquid in the cooling system is under pressure; when the plug is opened, the pressure will drop sharply, the liquid will boil and its splashes can scald you. If you want to open the expansion tank cap on a hot engine, first place a thick thick rag on top and only then carefully unscrew the cap.
The valve of the expansion tank plug plays a major role in ensuring optimal temperature conditions. It maintains an excess pressure in the system of at least 0.1 MPa (1.1 kgf/cm2). In this case, the boiling point of water increases to 120 °C, and the coolant - to 130 °C. Unfortunately, when the valve jams in the closed position due to overheating, a significant excess of excess pressure occurs - more than 0.2 MPa (2 kgf/cm2), which can lead to rupture of the expansion tank or failure of one of the hoses.
Why is the radiator cold and the engine hot?
The problem of engine overheating is well known to the vast majority of drivers. In this case, overheating of the engine can lead to serious damage or complete failure of the internal combustion engine. To prevent this from happening, the engine cooling system requires periodic maintenance and constant monitoring of performance.
However, a number of malfunctions may still arise unexpectedly. This means that it is very important to know why the engine gets hot in certain cases. In this article we will talk about common causes of overheating, what to do if the engine is boiling, but the radiator is cold, etc.
Engine overheating: main signs and causes
Let's start with the signs. First of all, this is the engine temperature indicator on the dashboard in the red zone. Also, on some models, a warning light may simply light up, indicating overheating.
Another sign of engine overheating is a decrease in engine power, loss of traction and detonation knocks when you sharply press the gas pedal or simply when accelerating. The reason is that the combustion process in the cylinders is disrupted due to an increase in temperature (explosions of the working mixture instead of combustion).
However, if the engine temperature is above 105 degrees, then this is already overheating and you need to look for the reasons. The simplest and most understandable is the low level of coolant in the cooling system. Let us also add that the liquid in the engine boils at a low level, since the contact surface of the liquid and the heated motor is insufficient, that is, heat removal is impaired.
- You also need to take into account that the cooling system is not completely sealed and closed. During operation, the liquid evaporates, which causes the level to decrease.
Priora heats up at idle
Good afternoon. I want to share useful information with you. Recently I had the following problem: I noticed that while driving, the coolant temperature began to rise to 100-110 degrees. The coolant cooled down when driving at idle. and when releasing the gas while driving (on the highway downhill without turning off the gear). For a couple of days while I was looking for the cause, I rode with the fan constantly running (I removed the chip from the sensor on the thermostat), it helped a little, but the temperature was still over 90.
What was done. First of all, I checked with diagnostics that the coolant temperature readings on the dashboard were correct, the temperature was on. fans. Everything is okay. After warming up the lower radiator pipe at around 85 degrees, I realized that the thermostat was opening on time, but just in case, I replaced it (I thought that it might not open completely and that could be the reason for poor coolant circulation). Did not help. I cleaned the radiator with a Karcher. Did not help. All that remained was the pump, radiator, expansion cap and, as an option, the block gasket. Since gases were not expelled into the expansion tank, I decided that the gasket was intact. Then he removed the thin hose on the expansion tank, lowered it into the neck, started the car and began to watch how the coolant stream behaves. On H.H. Everything is normal, I add gas, the pressure increases and begins to weaken and becomes weaker than at H.H. ... Is it really a pump? By the way, I changed it along with the timing kit 16,000 km. back.
I took everything apart, took off the belt, turned the pump by the pulley - there was no play, no extraneous noise either... I decided to remove and check the impeller... And this is the actual reason!
I bought it from AUTOPASKER. The box corresponded to all the authentication information, even sent an SMS, everything was confirmed. BUT now I understand that she was LEFT
Photo of the boxes. LEFT - LEFT, RIGHT factory in new packaging. Purchased from "SUV"
There was no way to take a photo of the new pump, so I took it from the net.
The top one is the original, my bottom one is the leftist one.
There are no markings on the left side, the original has a mark or some numbers. There are more holes on the left. And most importantly, on the left, the blades are bent in the other direction. When I changed the pump for the first time, there was nothing to compare it with, since I had one from the factory with these blades.
“The best teacher is experience; he explains clearly, but charges dearly.”
Friends, be vigilant, check everything a hundred times, this will save your time, money and nerves.
When the engine is running, a properly functioning cooling system maintains optimal temperature conditions. Malfunctions in the cooling system can lead to engine overheating.
Why does the engine get hot on a 16-valve Priora?
View full version: Engine gets hot. What could be the reason?
Hi all. car 99. The engine constantly warms up and the Carlson switches on. I already got it) I didn’t notice this back in the fall. Antifreeze level in the expansion tank is at MAX. You have to constantly turn on the heater at 2nd speed so that the engine cools down somehow. If I switch the fan to cold air, the temperature immediately goes off scale. Today I actually started sneezing (I think I overheated), because... the temperature was about 115 degrees. Then it stood for a while - it cooled down and everything was gutted. who can advise? What can be wrong? Maybe some tap is closed somewhere? because More than once after that the car was at 100 and the mechanics could fix it.
If warm air comes from the stove, then the thermostat can probably be removed immediately. Maybe it's time to clean the radiator? Does the antifreeze look normal? Have you changed it recently?
look at the thermostat, is the radiator hot or cold, could there be a plug somewhere or clogged...
The stove blows as it should. I'm tired of turning it on to mode 2 and lowering the window. The radiator was replaced with a new one a year ago. I don't think I managed to get clogged, though. Antifreeze flowed well back in the summer (I replaced the pump and antifreeze (I had Felix and mixed it with GOST))
The radiator is hot or cold, there may be a plug somewhere, or it may be clogged..
+1 Then watch this.
try to remove the plug and check the rest, if it doesn’t help, then as an option - a breakdown of the cylinder head gasket, the oil level has not risen? no emulsion?
look at the impeller on the pump.
The radiator is cold. Only a little warm on the sides.
Well, the reason was found, it’s either the thermostat, touch it when it’s warm in the part where the hose is connected to the radiator, or the radiator is clogged, or something else is clogged - take it apart, wash it. Maybe it was leaking somewhere, sealant was poured into the system? the traffic jam is unlikely...
thermos for replacement. the large circle does not open. The car apparently has an injector, the brains are turning on the fan, but there is nothing to cool.
yes, the car is fuel injected. Are there any taps on the approach or outlet of the radiator?
thermos for replacement. the large circle does not open. The car apparently has an injector, the brains are turning on the fan, but there is nothing to cool. Most likely.
Are there any taps on the approach or outlet of the radiator? only the stove has a faucet
The thermostat is a faucet) depending on the temperature of the engine it decides to open a large circle or close it) apparently it’s jammed. does not open to the large circle (through the radiator)
and there are no taps on the approach or exit from the radiator? On ZILs of the 60s there was a manual drive for the curtain in front of the radiator. After that, it seems, there were no manual adjustments in the Soviet automobile industry.
On ZILs of the 60s there was a manual drive for the curtain in front of the radiator. After that, it seems, there were no manual adjustments in the Soviet automobile industry. There were) I had such a thing on my GAZ-24 (1984)) it’s very convenient in winter)
thermos for replacement. the large circle does not open.
If the antifreeze does not circulate in a large circle, then the stove will not heat. Or am I driving?
If the antifreeze does not circulate in a large circle, then the stove will not heat. Or am I driving? My Priora was still warming up) Well, really it was in the summer, and I had to turn the heater on to maximum.
Device and features
The cooling system of the Priora internal combustion engine has a standard set of main components:
- radiator;
- thermostat;
- electric fan;
- water pump;
- heater;
- engine jacket;
- connecting hoses;
- expansion tank.
By circulating through the large and small circuits, the coolant prevents the engine from overheating, maintaining the desired temperature. Structurally, the cooling system of the Priora is simple and no different from other internal combustion engines with an injector, with the exception of small parts.
Radiator and forced cooling fan
They mainly serve to bring the working fluid to the optimal temperature for the functioning of the engine (the operating temperature of the Priora engine with 16 valves is 90–95 degrees). The predecessor of the Priora VAZ 2110 often installed a cooler made of copper alloys, but due to cheaper prices, designers switched to aluminum analogues.
The operation of the fan depends on the engine control unit.
It receives information from the DTOZH (this is a sensor that reads temperature readings) located in the water jacket of the power unit. If the permissible temperature values are exceeded, the control unit connects an electric fan to improve cooling efficiency. A faulty fan or clogged radiator can lead to a constant increase in optimal engine temperatures, which shortens the service life and can cause costly repairs.
Thermostat
Its task is to promptly open coolant access to a large circle of the engine cooling system (engine cooling system) after the engine reaches the optimal temperature. In simple terms, the thermostat allows you to quickly warm up the engine and regulates the operation of the entire system. During warming up, the thermostat valve is in the closed position, antifreeze does not flow through the large circuit (the radiator is not activated). As it warms up, the valve opens slightly under the influence of rising temperature, and antifreeze begins to move through the radiator along a larger circuit.
A thermostat malfunction can result in overheating of the power unit (if the valve is stuck closed) or, conversely, the operating temperature rises very slowly (when the valve is stuck in the open position). Overheating is much more dangerous. Beginners can identify this malfunction if the engine heats up all the time and the fan on the Priora is constantly running.
Pump (water pump) and heater
Without the first part, the coolant circulation circuit in the system is impossible. If the water pump is faulty, at best there will be a coolant leak from the system. In the worst case, the pump may jam, which will lead to a broken timing belt and subsequent problems, the solution of which will result in expensive repairs.
The heater, or simply the stove, consists of a radiator, pipes and a fan. Can additionally cool the antifreeze in the system. An indispensable unit in winter. Provides the interior with warm air.
Connecting elements and expansion tank
It serves as a receiving compartment where gases and vapors are discharged when the coolant is heated. Also, the expansion tank is the level for the entire cooling system. One of the main elements in the tank is the valve cover through which air is forced out. There is antifreeze, it begins to boil when the engine temperature rises critically.
The connecting hoses serve as a pipeline for the circulation of coolant and connecting elements of all structural units, thus creating a single looped and sealed circuit.
The design of the cooling system also includes an engine temperature sensor on the Priora and an engine jacket. The sensor constantly reads information about the current antifreeze temperature and transmits it to the ECU. The location of the power plant jacket is structurally assumed in the cylinder block housing; it serves to remove heat through the coolant.
Communities › Lada Priora (Lada Priora Club) › Blog › Priora Norma+ 2011 is heating up.
Greetings. I can’t solve the problem and it’s very frustrating. We have a 2011 Priora in the standard+ configuration with Conder Philips. I bought it in September and then noticed that the car warmed up a little, reached about 105 and the fan started at speed 1, it didn’t really cool down, I could stand there for 10 minutes waiting for it to turn off. Later the cold weather came and this problem somehow faded into the background. Right now it has again become a little more than 0 overboard and Priora began to make brains again. I set the state to x1 and set the temperature to 96 degrees. turning on the fan. Driving on the highway or in the city, it constantly stays at 93 degrees, often reaches 96 and the fan comes on. This is especially evident when DRIVING UP A MOUNTAIN, under load. I've already blown my mind and people's minds. I’ll say right away that I replaced two thermostats, changed the cover, new pump with a reinforced impeller, completely new antifreeze. Let's think collectively. I ask only without crazy advice, preferably a solution from those who have encountered this. I just can’t believe that the Priora should operate at 93 degrees and also constantly raise the temperature under load. What will happen then at +15-20. Thank you.
Bad thermostat
In hot weather, this element can also affect engine overheating. If there is a malfunction of the thermostat, the engine begins to heat up longer, and while on the road it constantly increases its operating temperature. Therefore, if the engine heats up at speed, most likely the cause is the thermostat. A low-quality part may simply jam. As a result, the half-open element is unable to ensure normal heat exchange and circulation of coolant at high speed. The way out of the situation is similar to the first case - the faulty element must be replaced. By the way, many owners of domestic cars in the summer simply remove the thermostat and drive without it. The engine of such cars does not heat up throughout the hot season. Well, with the onset of autumn, motorists again install this element in its regular place.
Note that the engine does not always heat up due to the thermostat. Perhaps the reason for this may be the lack of coolant in the system (we'll talk about this a little later). Therefore, the thermostat is always tested for functionality before replacement.
Features of cooling system malfunctions
The efficiency of the structure primarily depends on the level of antifreeze in the system and its condition (this liquid has a certain resource, usually up to three years or up to 50,000 km). The main sources of system malfunctions are the thermostat, radiator and electric fan, as well as the water pump, the principle of operation of which is described above.
The radiator most often becomes the source of antifreeze leakage. Accordingly, the liquid level in the system drops, and there is not enough of it for effective heat removal. The motor begins to overheat. It can also be clogged with garbage. And if water is used instead of antifreeze the old fashioned way, scale may form.
The consequences of a faulty water pump are much more serious. In addition to antifreeze leakage, the circulation of coolant in the system may stop and, as a result, the engine will quickly overheat. The worst case scenario is bent valves due to a broken timing belt.
The next common malfunction is burnout of the cylinder head gasket or deformation of the cylinder head of the internal combustion engine system. This leads to coolant entering the fuel combustion chambers. The same thing can happen if cracks appear on the cylinder block.
Coolant leakage is most often associated with loss of tightness of the connecting pipes, because over time, the material from which they are made hardens and wears out, as a result of which it cannot work properly.
On a Priora, a lot depends on the computer, and a faulty coolant temperature sensor can give incorrect readings. For example, if the ECU receives underestimated performance, the engine will begin to overheat. Otherwise, the fan will be constantly on. On the other hand, often the cooling system sensor does not transmit any readings at all. Then the ECU switches the operation to emergency mode.
The VAZ 21124 engine gets hot in traffic jams, reasons, signs of an overheated engine, what to do
10 reasons why a car engine gets hot. What to do if the engine is hot.
Overheating of a car engine is a problem that every driver can face.
In this article we can find out:
- how to notice in time that the engine has overheated;
- why the engine gets hot in general and in certain situations;
- what to do if the engine overheats.
To understand the essence of the issue, it is necessary to consistently read all the explanations of an experienced auto mechanic.
How to determine if the engine is overheated
At first glance it seems very simple - according to the indicators of the engine temperature device, or - sensor. This is true, if not for one thing - novice motorists are so captivated by the road situation around them that they look at the instrument panel only in one case - how much fuel is left. Experienced motorists, on the contrary, due to their confidence in their abilities, also do not look at the car’s dashboard. And as a result, a situation often arises that overheating is detected when the engine temperature has long exceeded permissible limits, and irreparable damage has been caused to the engine. It is irreparable overheating that is one of the most complex malfunctions, which leads to very serious consequences. But more on that later.
But there is a way that will not let you miss the moment of overheating. This is problematic in a traffic jam, and is not always clearly present, but here’s what you should be aware of:
As soon as the engine temperature exceeds the permissible norm, when you sharply press the gas pedal, or when accelerating the car, even slightly, detonation knocks are clearly heard, which are popularly called “tapping fingers.” This is not true, but everyone knows this definition. If you hear such a sound, there is a 99% chance that the engine has overheated, and action must be taken.
Detonation knock is a loud metallic knock, the frequency of which coincides with the engine speed. You've probably heard such sounds when refueling with low-quality fuel. I personally don’t know where the concept of “tapping fingers” came from. But the real reason for such knocking noises is a disruption in the fuel combustion process. What you hear is nothing more than explosions of the fuel mixture. During normal engine operation, the combustion process is controlled, as soon as one of the operating parameters is violated, the process goes out of control and combustion turns into an explosion. Hence the concept - detonation (from the word detonate - explode) knocks. When the engine overheats, this is the first sign.
Replacing elements
Structurally, the Lada Priora engine cooling system has a simple design. Therefore, we will consider replacing only individual components, with which certain difficulties are possible, especially for beginners.
Replacing the cooling system radiator
This unit on cars rarely changes. Typically, this procedure is necessary when a leak occurs that cannot be eliminated. Its service life can be 10 years or more. Cases when replacing the radiator are simply necessary are as follows:
Flushing the cooling system of Lada Priora
It becomes dirty and clogged over time and intensity of use. Clogged SOD channels do not allow antifreeze to circulate freely, as a result, heat transfer is disrupted. The stove in the cabin begins to heat poorly, and meanwhile the engine constantly overheats. In these situations, the right solution would be to clean the cooling system. To do this, first of all you need to cool the engine.
The following is the procedure.
- Drain the coolant (not only from the radiator, but also from the engine jacket, by unscrewing the drain plug on the cylinder block).
- Fill the expansion tank with any suitable flushing fluid to the optimum level.
- Start the engine and let it idle for at least 15 minutes.
- Drain the used fluid.
Then, if necessary, the procedure is repeated. After flushing, all that remains is to fill in fresh antifreeze and remove the air lock from the system. If a more thorough flushing of the system is required, then there is nothing complicated here either. To do this, you will need a regular watering hose connected to the water supply. To flush the radiator, you need to disconnect the lower and upper pipes, insert them into the upper hose and turn on the water. All dirt and rust will come out of the bottom. To flush the engine jacket, you need to do the same steps, but the hose is inserted into the thermostat pipe.
The effectiveness of flushing the system largely depends on the product chosen as a flushing agent.
The simplest option is regular tap water. Add lemon juice to it. Carbonated drinks, such as cola, are also suitable. You can also buy special cleaning products for washing SOD in specialized stores.
Communities › Lada Priora Club › Blog › Engine gets hot
Hello everyone, this is the problem. Every day when driving the engine heats up, about 100 degrees, the fan comes on. It’s fine at speed, just stop or stand in a traffic jam and that’s it!). I'm already afraid to drive, in case it boils. Can anyone tell me what could be the reason? I’m already tired of listening to the sound of the fan...
Comments 33
I also get warm every 5 minutes of parking, the fan kicks in at 100. The operating temperature is constantly 92-95
look at the antifreeze hoses. The top one should be hot. The bottom one should be a little warm. If not, then the thermostat is faulty
Thanks for the advice! I'll take a look today
I haven’t warmed up in a traffic jam yet, but there was another problem: when you stand still, the air conditioner is running, the fan turns on, although the temperature doesn’t reach 90. Once it worked, I arrived home, it’s working, well, I think it will turn off and I went into the house in an hour, I had to go, I’m going out and it works, the relay moved and turned off))) during the heat there were even contacts with the contacts
It bothered me, it bothered me, I endured it for 4 years. I changed the thermostat, now 87-90 at traffic lights doesn’t even always work. But before it just stopped for 15-20 seconds and spun. The constant temperature was 99-100 all year round. But for those who think the temperature is too high, advice First, stretch and clean all the masses. Otherwise, over time, when you turn on all the devices, the tidy will begin to lie and squeak.
Can you be more specific where you need to look? I replaced the temperature sensor that displays readings on the dashboard, changed the thermostat, and the cover. There is one sensor left. but before replacing it I want to try to clean the mass...
I stupidly cleaned the one that is screwed to the engine, and the one that comes from the generator. Then the battery terminals and the voltage rose and the temperature dropped. But in general, never trust the tidy.
My case is a little different, I noticed that at high temperatures when the fan is turned on, if I prance, my fingers rattle. Petrol? Firmware?
The washers on the valves need to be checked
Prior's operating temperature ranges from 90 to 105-07. Everything is fine. It's an AvtoVAZ!))
My Carlson works at 105 and is always in the range of 100!
Go don't be so afraid of everyone. I'm stuck in traffic at the beginning of the red zone, but the beeper doesn't work. Now, if the beeper starts emitting long beeping signals, then it will no longer be good, but everything is fine.
For me, it also works somewhere around 100, but when I ride with an air conditioner, even in traffic jams it stays at 87-90)
same situation and you can’t hear the fan working if it turns on
For the first month, I didn’t even understand that the fan was working. I thought that the thermostat somehow mystically resolved the temperature situation)))
My fan buzzes every 5 minutes!) They say everything is fine)
It would be bad if the fan didn't work. Then it would definitely boil. For me it works at 100. Before replacing the thermostat, when leaving the highway the temperature immediately dropped, but now it stays at 90 exactly.
this is normally 105 working (from the factory, by default, the ventilator operates at 105 degrees) good luck!
the red zone is 118 degrees - because at 118 the closed cooling system boils. My Carlson switches on in almost all traffic jams somewhere, according to the instrument readings, between 120 and 110 degrees. I did not see. so that serviceable cars stay at exactly 90 degrees in traffic jams in the summer...
I, too, used to heat up to a hundred, they install such a program at AvtoVAZ (I reflashed the brain and... everything is ok, at 90 the fan is on!)
I, too, start to get warm in a traffic jam, but the fan kicks in on time (at 97,100 degrees) in my opinion, all domestic cars have this kind of garbage
How much is the next mark after 90?))) it mostly stays there, but resets to 90 while moving.
My brother keeps the seed at 90 degrees forever) why does it work just 40 times a day?
It would be bad if the fan didn't turn on!
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