Why does the Priora 16 valve engine take a long time to heat up? reasons

Device and features

The cooling system of the Priora internal combustion engine has a standard set of main components:

• radiator;
• thermostat;
• electric fan;
• water pump;
• heater;
• engine jacket;
• connecting hoses;
• expansion tank.

By circulating through the large and small circuits, the coolant prevents the engine from overheating, maintaining the desired temperature. Structurally, the cooling system of the Priora is simple and no different from other internal combustion engines with an injector, with the exception of small parts.

Radiator and forced cooling fan

They mainly serve to bring the working fluid to the optimal temperature for the functioning of the engine (the operating temperature of the Priora engine with 16 valves is 90–95 degrees). The predecessor of the Priora VAZ 2110 often installed a cooler made of copper alloys, but due to cheaper prices, designers switched to aluminum analogues.

The operation of the fan depends on the engine control unit.

It receives information from the DTOZH (this is a sensor that reads temperature readings) located in the water jacket of the power unit. If the permissible temperature values ​​are exceeded, the control unit connects an electric fan to improve cooling efficiency. A faulty fan or clogged radiator can lead to a constant increase in optimal engine temperatures, which shortens the service life and can cause costly repairs.

Thermostat

Its task is to promptly open coolant access to a large circle of the engine cooling system (engine cooling system) after the engine reaches the optimal temperature. In simple terms, the thermostat allows you to quickly warm up the engine and regulates the operation of the entire system. During warming up, the thermostat valve is in the closed position, antifreeze does not flow through the large circuit (the radiator is not activated). As it warms up, the valve opens slightly under the influence of rising temperature, and antifreeze begins to move through the radiator along a larger circuit.

A thermostat malfunction can result in overheating of the power unit (if the valve is stuck closed) or, conversely, the operating temperature rises very slowly (when the valve is stuck in the open position). Overheating is much more dangerous. Beginners can identify this malfunction if the engine heats up all the time and the fan on the Priora is constantly running.

Pump (water pump) and heater

Without the first part, the coolant circulation circuit in the system is impossible. If the water pump is faulty, at best there will be a coolant leak from the system. In the worst case, the pump may jam, which will lead to a broken timing belt and subsequent problems, the solution of which will result in expensive repairs.

The heater, or simply the stove, consists of a radiator, pipes and a fan. Can additionally cool the antifreeze in the system. An indispensable unit in winter. Provides the interior with warm air.

Connecting elements and expansion tank

It serves as a receiving compartment where gases and vapors are discharged when the coolant is heated. Also, the expansion tank is the level for the entire cooling system. One of the main elements in the tank is the valve cover through which air is forced out. There is antifreeze, it begins to boil when the engine temperature rises critically.

The connecting hoses serve as a pipeline for the circulation of coolant and connecting elements of all structural units, thus creating a single looped and sealed circuit.

The design of the cooling system also includes an engine temperature sensor on the Priora and an engine jacket. The sensor constantly reads information about the current antifreeze temperature and transmits it to the ECU. The location of the power plant jacket is structurally assumed in the cylinder block housing; it serves to remove heat through the coolant.

Design features of the Lada 21127 engine

ICE 21127 differs from its predecessor in the variable length of the intake pipe. The intake system has a resonance chamber shifted closer to the intake valve. To control air flow, engineers installed 4 electronic dampers. Now at high speeds the air flow follows a long path, at low speeds it goes through the chamber.

Thanks to the operation of the dampers, the efficiency of fuel combustion has increased: at the time of increasing power, fuel consumption has decreased. During the compression stroke, some air is expelled from the cylinder and then returned, increasing the pressure in front of the intake manifold. At low crankshaft speeds, the 21127 engine provides torque and good throttle response. At high levels, the unit develops high power.

In addition to the dampers, engineers equipped the ICE 21127 with DTV temperature and DBP pressure sensors instead of the mass air flow sensor DMRV. New sensors transmit air flow readings to an electronic system, which enriches or leans the fuel-air mixture depending on the operating mode of the engine. In practice, budget factory tuning saved drivers from the problem of floating idle speed.

VAZ did not make any other changes in the design of the 21127 engine:

• The cylinder block is made of cast iron with subsequent honing of the internal surface. When boring, it is necessary to maintain a gap between the piston and cylinder of 0.045 mm;
• spark plug well channels and channels for heat removal are cast in the aluminum head. A 0.45 mm metal gasket is installed between the block and the head;
• The gas distribution system is built according to the DOHC scheme with two camshafts for the intake and exhaust valves. The camshafts are driven by a 22mm wide Gates timing belt with a semi-circular tooth;
• to regulate the thermal gap between the camshaft cams and valves, hydraulic compensators are installed;
• The lightweight connecting rod and piston group is manufactured by Federal Mogul. The pistons are cooled through special nozzles pressed into the main bearing supports;
• Engine lubricant is supplied under pressure to the crankshaft bearings, camshafts and hydraulic compensators. Oil is splashed onto the cylinder walls, pistons, camshafts and valve stems;
• ignition system with individual coils for each spark plug;
• fuel is supplied in a phased manner through the injectors according to a signal from the ECU.

For engine tuning 21127, experts offer:

• increase power to 115 hp. With. by installing a 54 mm damper instead of 52 mm and a 51 mm exhaust pipe with the Spider 4-2-1 system;
• replace the camshafts with Stolnikov 8.9 or similar USA, ClubTurbo, etc. to obtain power at high speeds;
• to achieve 150 hp You will need to replace the shafts with Stolnikov 9.15 with phase 316, bore the head for 31 and 27 mm valves, install Bosch 360cc or 440cc injectors.

What to do

After stopping the engine, proceed in the following order

2. Inspect the engine compartment. When inspecting, pay attention to the presence of coolant in the expansion tank, to the integrity of the rubber hoses and radiator.

Never immediately open the expansion tank cap on an overheated engine. Splashes may burn you.

. Sometimes, on the road, the tightness of a burst hose can be restored with the help of reinforced silver adhesive tape. It is sold in many auto parts stores.

3. Look under the driver's floor mat and determine if there are any coolant leaks from the heater core underneath.

4. If a fluid leak from the cooling system is difficult to eliminate on site, add clean water to the expansion tank. After this, you can continue driving, monitoring the engine temperature using the indicator on the instrument panel and periodically adding water to the cooling system.

Never add cold water to an overheated engine. Allow the engine to cool with the hood open for at least 30 minutes.

Long-term use of water instead of antifreeze leads to the formation of scale in the engine cooling system, so immediately after repair, replace the water with antifreeze.

5. If the coolant level is normal, but the engine is overheating, check by touch the temperature of the hose connecting the thermostat housing to the radiator. If the hose is cold, most likely the thermostat is faulty and there is no fluid circulation through the radiator. In this case, replace the thermostat.

6. If circulation through the radiator is normal (the hose is completely warm), start the engine and check whether the cooling system electric fan turns on. If the overheating indicator is on and the fan does not rotate, then a malfunction of the electric fan is the cause of overheating.

7. The reasons for the failure of the electric fan may be a blown fuse in the mounting block of the engine compartment, a malfunction of the electric motor, as well as burnout of the additional resistance of the electric fan and damage to the wiring harness.

8. To check the electric fan, disconnect the wiring harness block from it, then take two additional wires and supply power to the electric motor directly from the battery.

When connecting additional wires, be careful not to be injured by the fan blades starting to rotate. Connect the wires first to the motor connector and then to the battery. The wires must be securely fastened and insulated; do not allow them to short circuit with each other.

9. If the electric fan does not start to rotate when power is supplied through the additional wires, replace it. Otherwise, check the electric circuit of the electric fan, paying special attention to the reliability of connecting the pads to the additional resistance of the fan.

Additional resistance is installed on top of the electric fan casing.

10. If all checks fail, contact a service center to diagnose the engine.

Lada Priora Sedan 2007, 98 l. With. - breakdown

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Lada Priora, 2010

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Comments 50

To all PRIORA car owners, good day! I had such a situation that the car was warming up in traffic jams in hot weather at 30 degrees and above, in cool weather it rose to 27 to 95 and the fan came on and the temperature dropped to 92. And also when driving out onto the highway the temperature was 92, but as soon as we drove into the city the temperature rose to 120 degrees. I changed the pump, thermostat, radiator and expansion tank, but why I changed it there was a crack on the tank and there was no result, the car continued to heat up. After which I decided to remove the head, although there were no signs, it warmed up periodically for two days I drove without heating, one day the temperature rose and that’s it. The oil in the engines was clean, when the head was opened it showed that antifreeze had gone into the first and second cylinders, they discovered a micro crack in the head, that’s the reason. I had to do some capital work, the engine overheated.

How to determine if the engine is overheated

At first glance it seems very simple - according to the indicators of the engine temperature device, or - sensor. This is true, if not for one thing - novice motorists are so captivated by the road situation around them that they look at the instrument panel only in one case - how much fuel is left. Experienced motorists, on the contrary, due to their confidence in their abilities, also do not look at the car’s dashboard. And as a result, a situation often arises that overheating is detected when the engine temperature has long exceeded permissible limits, and irreparable damage has been caused to the engine. It is irreparable overheating that is one of the most complex malfunctions, which leads to very serious consequences. But more on that later.

But there is a way that will not let you miss the moment of overheating. This is problematic in a traffic jam, and is not always clearly present, but here’s what you should be aware of:

— As soon as the engine temperature exceeds the permissible norm, when you sharply press the gas pedal, or when accelerating the car, even slightly, detonation knocks can be clearly heard

, which are popularly called “tapping fingers.” This is not true, but everyone knows this definition.

If you hear such a sound, there is a 99% chance that the engine has overheated, and action must be taken.

Detonation knock is a loud metallic knock, the frequency of which coincides with the engine speed. You've probably heard such sounds when refueling with low-quality fuel. I personally don’t know where the concept of “tapping fingers” came from. But the real reason for such knocking noises is a disruption in the fuel combustion process. What you hear is nothing more than explosions of the fuel mixture. During normal engine operation, the combustion process is controlled, but as soon as one of the operating parameters is violated, the process goes out of control and combustion turns into an explosion. Hence the concept - detonation (from the word detonate - explode) knocks. When the engine overheats, this is the first sign.

Before continuing the conversation, let's define what is normal temperature and what is overheating. There is no one-word answer, but there are general rules.

The engine temperature is within 85-95 degrees Celsius, which is working.

Engine temperature up to 100 degrees is acceptable. This means that a short-term increase in temperature to 100, sometimes up to 105 degrees is allowed. Just for a short time - up to 5 minutes.

Engine temperature above 105 degrees Celsius means overheating and action must be taken.

Ignition system

This is another fairly common option and the reason why the Priora has difficulty starting when cold. Almost regularly, due to sudden and constant temperature changes, various microcracks form in the ignition coils. When the coil heats up, it tends to expand. If there are cracks between the walls of the coil, then there is no hot breakdown, since the gap in the crack will be minimal. When it is cold, the microcrack will be larger and as a result there will be a breakdown. There will be no spark on the spark plug. There is no ignition of the mixture, the car does not start well.

The problem exists not only with the ignition coils, but with any other components that operate in the Priora ignition system. This could be a distributor, wires, spark plugs. In this case, there is nothing better than replacing the coil and other elements.

Why does the Priora engine take a long time to warm up? The thermostat is working.

In addition to a faulty thermostat, there may be several reasons for the engine taking a long time to warm up:

• Low air temperature
• The problem is in the electronic control unit (most often this is a factory fault)
• Air lock in the system

What could be the reason if the upper radiator hose is hot and the lower one is cold?

Why doesn't the heater in my car heat well?

Heat from the stove is warmed air passing through the stove radiator. Coolant heated by the engine flows through the heater radiator. If the engine does not reach operating temperature (for gasoline engines, at least 60°), then the coolant is also not hot enough to heat the air. One of the possible reasons for underheating of the fluid or engine, and therefore the air in the cabin, is a faulty thermostat. A thermostat is a device that, when a certain coolant temperature is reached, opens the second circuit of the cooling system for more efficient cooling.

The video card heats up more than 70 degrees Celsius, what should I do?

It is normal for a video card to operate at high temperatures. Especially if any resource-intensive video game is turned on on the computer, which uses all the performance of the video adapter. But the system unit always provides the possibility of installing additional coolers that will balance the temperature.

What to do if your phone gets very hot?

I have a problem with HONOR 9A. I BOUGHT A PHONE after purchase. Never discharged it to 0%. I discharged it to 15%, 30%, 8%, and now I decided to discharge it to 0%. Of course, it didn’t discharge to 0%, but only to 2% and that’s all. And then there was a warning that the phone will turn off in 30 seconds. When the charge is 2% Tell me is this normal?

Reasons for long engine warm-up

• The ambient temperature is too low and, as a result, the coolant temperature in the radiator is too low. The easiest way out of this situation is to insulate the radiator, engine compartment, hood and engine. Ordinary plywood or cardboard inserted in front of the radiator very quickly and effectively solves the problem of engine cooling while driving. As for the car blanket and hood insulation, with this solution a cold engine will warm up faster and reach operating temperatures.
• Thermostat is not working properly. For those who do not know or simply forgot, it is worth recalling that this part is responsible for directing the flow of coolant along the large or small cooling circle. The small circle prevents antifreeze or antifreeze from entering the radiator and ensures its circulation only inside the engine. As a result, the motor heats up faster.

A constantly open thermostat prevents antifreeze from reaching the required temperature in winter. This is why the engine takes a long time to warm up at this time of year. Solution: repair or replace the thermostat.

• Air lock in the cooling system. As with any heating system, air interferes with the normal passage of fluid. In this case, it is necessary to determine the cause of the traffic jam and eliminate it.

• A less common cause of long warm-up may be a feature of the factory settings of the car’s electronic control unit (firmware) or their incorrect settings during flashing (chip tuning). One of the easiest solutions is to install an additional on-board computer with a function for adjusting the fan temperature.
• Premature operation of the cooling system fan can also lead to long warm-up times. It happens that the specified fan turns on even after starting a cold engine.

Idle speed sensor

This is also a common problem when the Priora 16 valves have difficulty starting when cold. This sensor is an electromagnet and a rod. When the car is cold, the temperature sensor reports this to the control unit and it sends a signal to the sensor responsible for idling. The engine speed will be increased until it warms up. The sensor rod extends and the throttle opens slightly. When the engine warms up, the ECU reports this to the sensor. The rod slowly moves back.

If there is a malfunction with the idle speed sensor, the rod does not extend, and accordingly, the throttle does not open slightly or does not open completely. The sensor may be dirty, or the coil located inside the IAC may fail.

Is it necessary to warm up the engine at all, when and why is this done?

Motorists have known about the need to warm up before driving almost since childhood. Moreover, after driving a cold car, many are immediately convinced that driving with a cold engine is less comfortable.

For example, on carburetor cars the engine reacts jerkily to the fuel supply or even stalls, the injection unit is noisy and pulls worse. And, according to experts, it consumes much more fuel. And only after some time and warming up, the operation of the power unit returns to normal.

The second reason is the consistency of the engine oil. Cold oil is less fluid, which means it will lubricate rubbing parts worse and slower. For example, the camshaft bearings are located relatively far from the oil pump and it takes a long time for lubricant to reach them. This is especially noticeable at low temperatures and viscous oil.

Oil

Many car owners try to change their oil before winter. But not everyone knows that the oil with the lowest viscosity is best suited for winter. Thick oil will simply harden in winter. In addition, when the engine is cold, it is very difficult for it to drive thick oil through the channels. If the picture is complemented by an old battery, then this aggravates the situation even more. Therefore, you need to try to purchase oil of exactly the viscosity at which the engine can start normally even in cold weather. Typically, a product with a viscosity of 5W30 is purchased. But in any case, you need to look at the manufacturer's recommendations. You should not deviate significantly from the tolerances.

Troubleshooting

The logical solution to the problem, in this case, is to replace either the thermostat itself or the component thermoelement. Both options are quite cheap, since we are talking about a domestic manufacturer, there is no need to buy any analogues. This procedure can easily be carried out independently, but if you do not know the technical component of the VAZ-2110, it is still better to contact specialists at service stations. The most important thing is to first drain all the antifreeze in the system. As a result of the replacement, the car’s instrument scale should show an engine temperature of at least 90 degrees after 20-30 minutes of warming up or 10-15 minutes of driving without prior waiting. The thermostat scale must be monitored periodically, at least once every 15 minutes of travel. A quick glance is enough to ensure that the engine temperature is within the required range, which will automatically indicate the integrity and suitability of the thermostat itself.

Starts and stalls

It also happens that the Priora has difficulty starting when cold and stalls. First of all, experts attribute this to the fact that little fuel is supplied to the combustion chambers, and with it cold air, which interferes with the normal ignition of the fuel mixture.

This problem can be fixed. To do this, you need to insert the ignition key into the lock to start the fuel pump. The ignition is turned off and then turned again to start the pump. When the pump is turned off, you can proceed to start the car.

The second solution to this problem is to check and try to stabilize the pressure in the fuel system. They also check the fuel filter and adjust the throttle clearance. Next, check the spark plugs and wires.

Flushing the cooling system of Lada Priora

It becomes dirty and clogged over time and intensity of use. Clogged SOD channels do not allow antifreeze to circulate freely, as a result, heat transfer is disrupted. The stove in the cabin begins to heat poorly, and meanwhile the engine constantly overheats. In these situations, the right solution would be to clean the cooling system. To do this, first of all you need to cool the engine.

The following is the procedure.

1. Drain the coolant (not only from the radiator, but also from the engine jacket, by unscrewing the drain plug on the cylinder block).
2. Fill the expansion tank with any suitable flushing fluid to the optimum level.
3. Start the engine and let it idle for at least 15 minutes.
4. Drain the used fluid.

Then, if necessary, the procedure is repeated. After flushing, all that remains is to fill in fresh antifreeze and remove the air lock from the system. If a more thorough flushing of the system is required, then there is nothing complicated here either. To do this, you will need a regular watering hose connected to the water supply. To flush the radiator, you need to disconnect the lower and upper pipes, insert them into the upper hose and turn on the water. All dirt and rust will come out of the bottom. To flush the engine jacket, you need to do the same steps, but the hose is inserted into the thermostat pipe.

The effectiveness of flushing the system largely depends on the product chosen as a flushing agent.

The simplest option is regular tap water. Add lemon juice to it. Carbonated drinks, such as cola, are also suitable. You can also buy special cleaning products for washing SOD in specialized stores.

Replacing elements

Structurally, the Lada Priora engine cooling system has a simple design. Therefore, we will consider replacing only individual components, with which certain difficulties are possible, especially for beginners.

Replacing the cooling system radiator

This unit on cars rarely changes. Typically, this procedure is necessary when a leak occurs that cannot be eliminated. Its service life can be 10 years or more. Cases when replacing the radiator are simply necessary are as follows:

Removing the old and installing a new radiator, as well as replacing antifreeze on a Priora with air conditioning, is somewhat more difficult. Therefore, to save time and nerves, it is better to entrust this matter to professionals. If there is no air conditioning, you can change the radiator yourself.

If the fan remains on the radiator, you need to disconnect the terminal from it. Installation of a new radiator is carried out in the reverse order of removal. If necessary, you can change the antifreeze.

Replacing the thermostat

Another important element of the cooling system, which can be changed independently. This is done as follows.

Before installing a new thermostat, you should pay attention to the rubber seal where it is attached to the block. To improve the tightness, it is necessary to coat it with a silicone gasket sealant. Next, all that remains is to install a new thermostat, connect all the pipes and fill in the coolant. After this, you need to start the engine and warm it up to 90 degrees, then inspect the thermostat and pipes for leaks. If necessary, you need to add antifreeze and remove the air lock, if any.

After replacing the thermostat, all that remains is to check its functionality. If the thermostat is working properly, the lower radiator hose should be cool when starting and running a cold engine. You need to let the engine run until it reaches operating temperature.

After the pointer on the instrument panel shows 90 degrees, you need to touch the lower pipe again. It should heat up smoothly. If this does not happen, the thermostat is faulty.

Powertrain Maintenance

The frequency of maintenance of the Priora engine by the manufacturer is 15 thousand km. It is recommended to carry out the first maintenance after 3 thousand km

The main attention should be paid to checking all attachment points for attachments. During the same service, the first oil and oil filter change is carried out.

If the engine is 8-valve, it is worth checking the valve clearances. For a 16-valve engine, this measure is not necessary, since hydraulic compensators are installed on this power unit. Similar work is carried out after 15 thousand kilometers of the Priora.

After the odometer reaches a value of 30 thousand km, in addition to changing the oil and oil filter, the spark plugs and power system filters require replacement. Often, at this mileage value, the timing tension pulley gradually begins to fail. If the Priora has an 8-valve engine, it will not be superfluous to replace the valve cover gasket.

When crossing the value of 45 thousand km, the oil is changed again

It is worth paying attention to the tension of the timing belt, and this applies to any engine, both 8-valve and 16-valve.

Motor testing

The next service is carried out after 60 thousand km. This time it is advisable to replace the alternator drive belt and spark plugs. It may be necessary to flush the power system, especially the throttle pipe. It is advisable to replace the idle speed sensor.

At 75 thousand km on an 8-valve engine, the timing belt and oxygen sensor are replaced. By this time, the coolant will partially lose its properties, so it is also replaced.

Further maintenance work on the Priora is repeated. Thus, it turns out that the minimum engine life is more than 100 thousand km. In some cases, with proper and timely maintenance, the mileage on a Priora without major repairs can be over 200 thousand km. Moreover, any intervention in the engine design, so-called tuning, can of course increase engine power, but this also reduces the life of the power unit.

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Main causes of overheating

The classic cooling scheme consists of a large and small circuit through which antifreeze circulates. The thermostat performs a regulatory function, directing the liquid in the desired circle. It is cooled in a radiator made of aluminum. The fan built into the system turns on while the car is running at low speeds, helping to maintain the required degrees.

When the engine of a VAZ 2110 gets hot, the reason lies in the following malfunctions:

Each of these reasons can become the main reason why the VAZ 2110 engine begins to overheat. As a result, the car loses power.

Thermostat malfunction

If the VAZ 2110 8-valve injector heats up, the reason may lie in a faulty thermostat. The unit is jamming. As a result, the circulation of liquid stops at any temperature. Often such a breakdown is caused by the fact that the VAZ 2110 car heats up for a long time at idle. The time of such warming up should not exceed 10 minutes. It is allowed to drive the car immediately after turning it on, provided that the first few km it is given a gentle mode.

Thermostat: 1-bypass valve; 2-outlet pipe (to the pump); 3-main valve spring; 4-main valve; 5-piston holder; 6-piston; 7-inlet pipe (from the radiator); 8-rubber insert; 9-solid heat-sensitive filler; 10-bypass valve spring; 11-inlet pipe (from the engine).

The thermostat can be checked directly on the engine. The operating procedure is as follows:

You can also check the thermostat by dismantling it and understand why the VAZ 2110 8-valve engine gets hot. To do this, the device is removed from the engine and placed in a container of water. This could be any saucepan that is placed on the fire. After the liquid boils, the valve should open. If this does not happen, then the unit is jammed. It cannot be repaired. It needs to be replaced.

VAZ 2110 injector 8 valves, characteristics, timing device photo

An injector with 8 valves with a volume of 1.5 liters received the engine index VAZ-2111, a more powerful unit with a volume of 1.6 liters (8-liter) received the index VAZ-21114. Recently, modifications of the 21114 engine have been produced; they are installed on almost all today’s Lada models, albeit under a different index.

Today we will talk about the design of the 8-valve injector of the VAZ-2110 as well as the characteristics of this power unit. In our photo at the beginning of the article you can see how the injection engine of the “ten” looks under the hood of the car.

So, how does the VAZ 2110 8-valve injector work? Firstly, the main difference between the carburetor version of the engine and the injector is the supply of fuel to the combustion chamber. If in a carburetor engine the combustible mixture is sucked into the cylinders under the influence of vacuum created by the pistons, then in an injection unit the fuel is injected under pressure. It is because of this that the entire design of the injector and carburetor “ten” fuel systems is different.

It all starts in the gas tank, where an electric fuel pump is installed, whose task is to create the necessary pressure in the rail. From the ramp, fuel under pressure is injected into the combustion chamber through nozzles. The entire injection process is controlled electronically, which opens and closes (via a return spring) the injector solenoid valves, injecting fuel into the engine. But the electronics in the VAZ 2110 8-valve injector do not work on their own, but are guided by signals from pressure sensors in the fuel system, air sensors and throttle position. There is none of this in the carburetor “ten”.

In this regard, let's talk about the pros and cons of the VAZ 2110 8-valve injector. On the positive side, it can be noted that the operation of the injector is more stable, the engine produces more power and torque, while fuel consumption is less than in the carburetor version. But if a carburetor VAZ 2110 can be repaired with almost bare hands, then the injection version requires diagnostic equipment, without which it can be extremely difficult to identify the problem. After all, if one of the sensors turns out to be faulty, then your injection engine may not start or work intermittently.

Below are detailed characteristics of the VAZ 2110 injector 8 valves with a working volume of 1.5 and 1.6 liters.

Engine VAZ 2111 1.5 l. 8-valve injector

• Working volume – 1499 cm3
• Number of cylinders – 4
• Number of valves – 8
• Cylinder diameter – 82 mm
• Piston stroke – 71 mm
• Power – 76 hp (56 kW) at 5600 rpm
• Torque – 115 Nm at 3800 rpm
• Compression ratio – 9.9
• Power system - distributed injection
• Acceleration to 100 km/h – 14 seconds
• Maximum speed – 167 kilometers per hour
• Average fuel consumption – 7.2 liters

Engine VAZ 21114 1.6 l. 8-valve injector

• Working volume – 1596 cm3
• Number of cylinders – 4
• Number of valves – 8
• Cylinder diameter – 82 mm
• Piston stroke – 75.6 mm
• Power – 81.6 hp (60 kW) at 5600 rpm
• Torque – 115 Nm at 3800 rpm
• Compression ratio – 9.6
• Power system - distributed injection
• Acceleration to 100 km/h – 13.5 seconds
• Maximum speed – 170 kilometers per hour
• Average fuel consumption – 7.6 liters

Timing device VAZ 2110 injector 8 valves

Many people are concerned about the question: Do the valves on the VAZ 2110 injection engine bend? No, it doesn’t bend, the 8-valve injector does not suffer from this defect. But this does not mean that you should not monitor the timing belt. Since loosening and subsequent jumping of the belt by a certain number of teeth will lead to inevitable problems

It is worth paying special attention if engine oil gets on the belt; an oiled belt will not last long. Below is a detailed image of the timing diagram of the 8-valve injection engine “tens”

See the photo below.

When replacing the timing belt on a VAZ-2110, it is necessary to clearly align the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys; without this, the engine will not operate normally. Another important point is that when the tension roller moves to its original state, the marks shift as the belt tension changes. Therefore, carefully check whether the timing marks are clearly aligned before putting on the cover covering the timing belt.

The air in the cabin does not heat up for a long time - what is the reason?

Another big problem with warming up a car for a long time in winter is that it takes too long for the air in the cabin to warm up. You have to drive with terribly cold air from the air deflectors, scrape ice off the glass in the cabin and encounter various other troubles. Therefore, solving this problem is often a priority. It is worth paying attention to several possible reasons for this unpleasant effect:

• general problems with warming up the engine, which we discussed above, because if the fluid is not warmed up, then cold air will enter the cabin, this is an inevitable consequence;
• blockage in the cooling system - there may be air pockets in the stove itself, which do not in any way affect the quality of operation of the rest of the system; they can be eliminated at service stations;
• problems in the heater radiator - often the radiator itself is the cause of problems, it can be clogged, dirty inside or outside, which causes the effect of cold air in the cabin;
• clogged air ducts - often the problem of foggy glass and cold in the cabin is connected, it is worth cleaning the air ducts and inspecting them by removing the front panel and other parts in the cabin;
• broken switches and regulators - often car owners come to service stations who do not suspect that the temperature in the cabin is cold due to a non-functioning temperature control knob.

These are the unusual reasons that can occur when the interior is poorly heated. As a rule, such problems also include fogging and icing of the windows in the cabin, terrible stale air during a long trip, unpleasant odors, high humidity and even dampness. Such effects will clearly not benefit your car, nor will they provide a pleasant experience when using the vehicle. So you should get rid of them as soon as possible.

Watch a video on how to check the thermostat's operation:

16 valve engine

Now let's talk about 16-valve engines for cars of the domestic manufacturer Lada Granta. These engines are already installed on luxury cars. The power of the power units has been increased, which has affected the reduction in fuel economy.

Some models are used on Lada Granta "Sport" class cars. They are distinguished by high-torque power and rapid development of speed from the start.

Technical specifications for Lada Granta

Let's look at the technical characteristics of the 16-valve engine model 21126. They are presented in the table.

What distinguishes this engine from the previous two is the presence of DAT and DTV instead of DRMV. In this way, the manufacturer got rid of floating speed at idle speed of the engine. This improved the performance of the power unit from the Lada Grant. It’s true that these engines have become a little more expensive.

A broken timing belt still bends the valve. But this is the price to pay for making the engine lighter and increasing its power.

Now let's look at another engine that was installed on the “Lux” model from Lada Grant. Technical characteristics of this engine 21127.

There is another rare engine with 16 valves. It was installed only on “Sport” model cars. The modification of the power unit is designated VAZ 2126-77. It was an upgraded model 2126 engine.

The only difference from other engines was the increase in power after the tachometer crossed the three thousand rpm mark. And its power was 120 horses. Otherwise, it did not differ from the previous engines already described.

Engine design features

The sixteen-valve engine has a cast-iron cylinder block and an aluminum head. Another advantage of these engines was the ability to cover 100 meters in 11 seconds.

The maximum speed that the engine reached was considered to be 172 km/h. This is why car owners fell in love with these engines. Although there were some shortcomings. For example, bending of valves when a belt breaks. This was followed by a major overhaul or a complete change of the power unit.

These engines showed high power, which differed several times from that indicated in the data sheet. However, they often had problems that were also different from the passport problems.

For example, the car owner’s reluctance to take the engine for regular maintenance led to a decrease in the engine’s lifespan. The gasket and pistons on these engines burned out.

The water pump broke down with enviable frequency. Especially residents of the southern regions and those who like to kill cars in difficult operating conditions cannot boast of the absence of overheating.

Motor life

The service life of sixteen-valve engines exceeds three hundred thousand kilometers if treated with care. The engine life is not lower than the eight-valve one, but does not exceed it, as can be seen from the tables above.

Despite such high engine durability, it has disadvantages that do not suit many car owners. Let's look at these disadvantages.