Next, take the head (or socket wrench) and unscrew the two caliper mounting bolts (located on the back side).
The second bolt is not indicated in the photo; it can be easily seen by bending down or feeling it with your hand. On the left is a photo with the caliper already removed for clarity.
Next you need to unscrew the two guide pins. Do not under any circumstances try to unscrew them with just a 7mm spanner! Take and put on two keys at once, or even better if you find a long head on “7”.
These pins are screwed into the hub; they simply pass through the brake disc and press it against the hub, helping to put on the wheel when replacing it. It wouldn’t hurt to shed these pins a couple of times on both sides with a WD tool and at the same time shed the mounting diameter of the brake disc on the hub.
If you were able to unscrew the pins, consider half the job already done (on a car with a mileage of less than 20,000 km, the pins can be unscrewed quite simply, but if the car, like mine, has a mileage of around 55,000 km, and is also somehow adjusted by AvtoVAZ, you will be able to unscrew them It’s not easy.
Now we begin to knock on the brake disc from the inside with a heavier hammer through a piece of wood. The main thing is not the force of the blow, but the symmetry of the blows on opposite edges of the disc. The disc has a very tight fit (a normal brake disc has a groove for the hub of 58.6 mm, the hub has a groove of 58.5 mm + corrosion). We knock on the hub from the inside, turn it 180° (if you prefer, you can knock at least every 30° turn). In the holes of the wheel bolts you can clearly see how tightly the disk is pressed to the hub, and you need to knock on the side where the pressure is stronger.
Having removed the disc, we can say that the hardest part is over.
Use a metal brush to clean the mounting hole on the hub and put on a new disc.
In my case, the original 240 mm brake disc was a miserable sight; in just two sets of pads, it managed to burn blue several times, which was facilitated by the idiotic setting of the brake force regulator at the factory. As a result, the small 240 mm brake disc took on the majority (more than 80% of the car’s kinetic energy).
Visually, the difference between a 240mm (popularly 13”) disc and a 260mm (popularly 14”) disc is this:
The new disc should fit tightly onto the hub; if it is loose, you can safely take such counterfeit back to the seller.
We screw in the old pins (it is better to replace them with new ones).
Now the new disk needs to be pressed to the hub with the wheel bolts. You need to put nuts or washers under the bolts, I personally bought some four big nuts for this, it seems like hub nuts from the classics, or something. In general, I chose the cheapest ones in the store (9 rubles each). We press the brake disc, tightening the bolts crosswise.
Now we take the purchased VAZ 2112 bracket (pad guide) and put it on the old caliper instead of the existing VAZ 2110 bracket. I didn’t bother and bought new calipers, because The old ones stopped inspiring confidence after I saw the condition of the discs and pads.
In terms of price, the difference is approximately 4 times: a new caliper assembly costs approximately 2200..2300 rubles, a new bracket costs about 800..900 rubles.
Before installing the caliper, you can also replace the front pads (they are easy to change, no need to unscrew and unscrew the guide bolt). I also advise you to replace the bleeder fitting, installing one from the Volga (the AvtoVAZ fitting is turnkey “8”, the Volgovsky fitting is turnkey “10”, otherwise identical).
We screw the caliper with the VAZ 2112 bracket into place. I did not immediately unscrew the hose from the old caliper, and replaced them after installing the new caliper. If you only change the bracket, then you don’t need to touch the hose at all, and you don’t have to bleed the brakes.
In the photo: ATE brake disc 260 mm catalog number 24.0120-0187.1, ATE brake pads catalog number 13.0460-2965.2. I bought these parts on https://www.exist.ru because the stores are full of fakes (even to the point that the brake disc has a mounting diameter 2 mm larger).
Finally, I decided to paint it with alkyd enamel (since it’s a new caliper) in three layers.
That's basically all. We put the wheel on and don’t forget that new pads break in after about 200 km. And you can’t brake sharply (from 100 km/h to 20 km/h) to avoid thermal deformation of the disk; the disk must warm up smoothly several times before you burn a couple of million joules on it
PS My original wheels at this time of replacement had a thickness of 16.5mm (allowable 18.5mm).
The brake force regulator was adjusted so that the rear wheels only worked when the trunk was very heavily loaded, i.e., when the car was empty, they hardly braked.
Don't forget that the manufacturer recommends replacing all brake hoses every 5 years or 100 thousand. km run.
And one more thing: with all the advantages of such a modification, there is also a disadvantage - now 13” wheels will not fit on 260mm brake discs and a 12th caliper.
Brake disc diameter on Kalina?
Please tell me, dear Kalinovods, are 13th or 14th brakes up to standard? Actually, I’m wondering if I can install 13th ones on Norma, where the standard 14th wheels are?
At 1.4 there should be 14th
To normal from 1.6 8kl. quite
maybe . Several friends have a simple viburnum 06g-07 - they cost 13e - that's what the answer was based on.
The answer has been received. Thank you all very much for your participation.
Why is there a barrel spring on hatches?
in the standard sedan and hatchback the price is 13, on standard and luxury models 14, on station wagons in any configuration 14.
I have a friend with me for a 1.6 8kl station wagon. Norma brought his 13 wheels to pick up from the dealership, but he had to buy two 14 wheels in front, and put two of his 13 wheels back. By the way, I’ve seen a lot of such strange comrades who drive in the back with 13 wheels and in front with 14))))
Lada "Kalina" became a breakthrough project of the Volzhsky Automobile Plant, aimed at producing a modern car, which, on the one hand, should remain relatively affordable for most citizens, and on the other, be closer to world analogues of this class of cars in terms of quality and the introduction of modern innovations and technologies.
The production and operation of this brand of car for more than five years revealed the traditional problem of the Volzhsky Automobile Plant, which is the insufficient quality of assembly of the units. In addition, the use of a full-fledged on-board computer in the model, the introduction of climate control and the installation of ABS, led to an expansion of the range of spare parts required for repairing the VAZ-1117.
The interior of the car has undergone quite a lot of changes compared to traditional “classic” models. However, the insufficiently high quality of plastic still forces the owners of this car to look for an alternative replacement for factory parts. Also very popular are the parts used for tuning the model and often allowing you to change the car beyond recognition.
If you plan to replace brake discs on Kalina, you will need to purchase parts measuring 260 millimeters and a caliper bracket from a VAZ 2122. To complete the work, you will need some special tools.
Standard wheel sizes for LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x
The LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x model was produced from 2004 to 2012. Table of standard and suitable wheel sizes for LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x.
Disc drilling parameters are usually called bolt pattern:
- LZ (number of holes)
- PCD (hole center circle diameter)
- ET (disc offset)
- DIA (hole diameter)
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| Make model modification Auto | Year of issue | Options | Disc width | Disc diameter | Bolt pattern LZ*PCD | Departure ET | Diameter DIA | type of instalation |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 2012 | 5Jx13 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 5 | 13 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Factory |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 5.5Jx14 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 5.5 | 14 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Factory | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 5.5Jx14 4/98 ET38 d58.6 | 5.5 | 14 | 4X98 | 38 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 6Jx15 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 6 | 15 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 6Jx15 4/98 ET33 d58.6 | 6 | 15 | 4X98 | 33 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 2011 | 5Jx13 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 5 | 13 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Factory |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 5.5Jx14 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 5.5 | 14 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Factory | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 5.5Jx14 4/98 ET38 d58.6 | 5.5 | 14 | 4X98 | 38 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 6Jx15 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 6 | 15 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 6Jx15 4/98 ET33 d58.6 | 6 | 15 | 4X98 | 33 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 2010 | 5Jx13 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 5 | 13 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Factory |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 5.5Jx14 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 5.5 | 14 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Factory | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 5.5Jx14 4/98 ET38 d58.6 | 5.5 | 14 | 4X98 | 38 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 6Jx15 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 6 | 15 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 6Jx15 4/98 ET33 d58.6 | 6 | 15 | 4X98 | 33 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 2009 | 5Jx13 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 5 | 13 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Factory |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 5.5Jx14 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 5.5 | 14 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Factory | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 5.5Jx14 4/98 ET38 d58.6 | 5.5 | 14 | 4X98 | 38 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 6Jx15 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 6 | 15 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 6Jx15 4/98 ET33 d58.6 | 6 | 15 | 4X98 | 33 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 2008 | 5Jx13 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 5 | 13 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Factory |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 5.5Jx14 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 5.5 | 14 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Factory | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 5.5Jx14 4/98 ET38 d58.6 | 5.5 | 14 | 4X98 | 38 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 6Jx15 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 6 | 15 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 6Jx15 4/98 ET33 d58.6 | 6 | 15 | 4X98 | 33 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 2007 | 5Jx13 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 5 | 13 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Factory |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 5.5Jx14 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 5.5 | 14 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Factory | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 5.5Jx14 4/98 ET38 d58.6 | 5.5 | 14 | 4X98 | 38 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 6Jx15 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 6 | 15 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 6Jx15 4/98 ET33 d58.6 | 6 | 15 | 4X98 | 33 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 2006 | 5Jx13 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 5 | 13 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Factory |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 5.5Jx14 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 5.5 | 14 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Factory | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 5.5Jx14 4/98 ET38 d58.6 | 5.5 | 14 | 4X98 | 38 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 6Jx15 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 6 | 15 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 6Jx15 4/98 ET33 d58.6 | 6 | 15 | 4X98 | 33 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 2005 | 5Jx13 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 5 | 13 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Factory |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 5.5Jx14 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 5.5 | 14 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Factory | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 5.5Jx14 4/98 ET38 d58.6 | 5.5 | 14 | 4X98 | 38 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 6Jx15 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 6 | 15 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 6Jx15 4/98 ET33 d58.6 | 6 | 15 | 4X98 | 33 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 2004 | 5Jx13 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 5 | 13 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Factory |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 5.5Jx14 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 5.5 | 14 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Factory | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 5.5Jx14 4/98 ET38 d58.6 | 5.5 | 14 | 4X98 | 38 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 6Jx15 4/98 ET35 d58.6 | 6 | 15 | 4X98 | 35 | 58.6 | Acceptable | |
| LADA Kalina 1.6i 111x | 6Jx15 4/98 ET33 d58.6 | 6 | 15 | 4X98 | 33 | 58.6 | Acceptable |
Despite the fact that this information is taken from the websites of auto manufacturers, our catalog is for informational purposes only and does not guarantee full compliance of the proposed sizes with your car.
Removing fastening elements
So, let's start replacing the brake discs. First you need to loosen the wheel bolts. Then you need to lift the car using a jack. When the wheel nuts are safely unscrewed, you should remove the wheel itself and place it under the front suspension. This is necessary for safety reasons, otherwise you never know what could happen during the work. It is recommended to place a board between the wheel and the suspension.
The two fastening bolts, which are located on the back side, must be unscrewed using a socket or spanner. You first need to feel the second bolt with your hand, because you won’t see it right away. The next step is to unscrew the two guide pins. It’s worth warning right away that you shouldn’t even try to unscrew them using a simple ring wrench No. 7. In this case, it is best to take two keys, and ideally use a long 7-mm socket.
It would be useful to remind you that these pins are screwed into the hub. They simply pass through the brake disc and press it against the hub. They must also be installed when putting on the wheel during its replacement. It will be useful to treat these pins on both sides with WD. It is recommended to shed the fitting diameter of the braking distance on the hub.
Unscrewing the pins is not an easy task. If you have successfully completed this stage, you can consider that half of the work is already done. The level of difficulty in manipulating the pins depends on the mileage of the car. For example, if the indicator does not exceed 20 thousand kilometers, it will not be difficult to unscrew the pins. With a mileage of, for example, 55 thousand kilometers, difficulties may arise with dismantling parts.
It will be especially difficult to unscrew the pins if they were carelessly adjusted at the factory. If the pin breaks, you can cut it off with a grinder or file it. There is nothing dangerous about this. The main thing is to do everything carefully so that there are no edges left. If the beads remain, they will hold the brake disc, which is not very good.
Original or analogue?
This is what AvtoVAZ writes about the original LADA brake discs.
Original brake discs meet high LADA standards and guarantee quality, for this:
- Each batch of brake discs undergoes random inspection and checks of the metal structure using special equipment, excluding porosity and other casting defects
- The disc is made from high-quality cast iron, which guarantees no warping effect during sudden braking or overheating.
- Brake discs undergo high-precision processing to ensure the absence of runout and imbalance
- All original LADA spare parts undergo numerous tests confirming the reliability and quality of each part.
What brake discs for Granta, Kalina, Priora do you recommend? We offer you to determine the best manufacturer. Take the survey and leave your feedback in the comments.
Source of article: https://xn--80aal0a.xn--80asehdb/do-my-self/repair/repair-lada-granta/10212-kakie-tormoznye-diski-dlja-lada-granta-kalina-priora-luchshe -vybrat.html
Final stages of work
Before replacing the caliper, you can immediately change the pad apron. This work will not take much time. In addition, replacing the old caliper with a new one is quite simple.
This is how the brake system is adjusted
It is also advisable to change the bleeder fitting. You can install a fitting from the Volga, since these parts are identical. After this, we return to screwing the caliper with the VAZ bracket. You can not unscrew the hose from the old caliper immediately, but only after the new unit is installed. If only the bracket is being changed, then the hose should not be touched, and there is no need to bleed the brakes either.
After finishing the work, you can paint the discs with alkyd enamel. It is best to apply three layers. The replacement of the front and rear brake discs can be considered complete. All that remains is to put on the wheel.
After about 200 kilometers, the new pads will begin to wear out. Remember that under no circumstances should you suddenly slow down, for example, from 100 kilometers per hour to 20. If you brake smoothly, you will be able to avoid thermal deformation of the disk.
Do not forget that for effective braking the rear brake disc must warm up gradually and several times. Manufacturers of Kalina strongly recommend replacing the HAZ every five years or after a mileage of 100 thousand kilometers. Do not neglect this valuable advice.
VERDICT
Sergey UDOTOV, RHHCC champion
Proma Brakes were the first to evaluate the brakes. Excellent stability in a series of combat circles, good force-deceleration feedback.
Then there was a series of laps with a set of JBT brakes. The braking points before turns on the track are almost the same as with Proma Brakes, but I liked the information content even more. The JBT withstood a series of eight combat laps with dignity, did not start to “swim”, and the brake pedal became only a little softer.
To summarize, I note: both kits are an excellent solution for tuning the standard brake system. It is difficult to say how feasible this is without increasing the power supply of the vehicle. In the championship in the “time attack” discipline, such high stability in a series of combat circles is useless; you can completely limit yourself to replacing the pads in the standard calipers with more “evil” ones.
Features of Kalina Sport
Lada Kalina Sport was created in 2008. After the release of the first car, the state registration of the model was successfully completed. Soon Kalina Sport cars were sent to Yaroslavl, Moscow, Izhevsk, Vologda, Voronezh, Perm, Volgograd, Kirov, Orenburg, Krasnoyarsk and other cities of the country.
Lada Kalina Sport is very similar to the Lux model. The sports version of Kalina differs in that it contains quite a lot of different original parts. These are door moldings, an exhaust pipe nozzle, a combination of various instruments with white scales and orange backlighting, original bumpers, a spoiler, and a nameplate on the fifth door. The interior of Kalina Sport is made in an elegant dark color, which gives it a special chic and uniqueness. The car is equipped with special sports pedal pads.
If we talk about brake discs on Kalina Sport, then most car enthusiasts claim that they are better on a regular Kalina. Of course, opinions differ, so which brakes to choose when purchasing a car is up to the buyer himself to decide. Good luck in choosing a car!
VERDICT
Oleg PETRIKOV, “Behind the Wheel” test driver, Russian vice-champion
I really liked the Proma kit for its deceleration efficiency. With it, in addition, the clarity of the drive has improved - it’s easier for me to control the deceleration with pedal effort, although I admit that this will cause some difficulties for ordinary drivers. I think most motorists will like the HP Brakes kit, which is similar to “civilian” brakes in terms of pedal movement and force on it.
In each case, Kalina does not become much faster on the race track, and it was not possible to assess which set will last longer - even after fifteen laps in racing mode, the front brakes do not lose effectiveness.
In everyday use of the Lada, standard mechanisms are quite sufficient. It makes sense for residents of regions who operate their cars on mountain roads to install more efficient ones.
