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Reference data
Front wheel alignment angles under a load of 320 kg:
Front wheel camber, hail | -0°30′..+0°30′ |
Front wheel toe-in, mm | -1…+ 1 |
Longitudinal inclination of the wheel turning axis, degrees | 1-2° |
The installation angles of the front wheels of the equipped vehicle are:
Front wheel camber, hail | 0 — 1° |
Front wheel toe-in, mm | 0,5-2,5 |
Longitudinal inclination of the wheel turning axis, degrees | 1-2° |
Tightening torques for threaded connections:
Name of units and parts | Thread | Tightening torque, N-M (kgf-m) |
Wheel bolts | M12×1.25 | 65,2-92,6 (6,7-9,5) |
Front wheel bearing nut | M20x1.5 | 225,6-247,2 (23-25,2) |
Bolts securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle | M10×1.25 | 49,0 -61,7 (5,0-6,3) |
Nut securing the ball pin to the lever | M12x1.25 | 66,6-82,3 (6,8-8,4) |
Adjusting bolt nut (with eccentric) of the front suspension strut | M12x1.25 | 77,5-96,1 (7,9-9,8) |
Nut of the bolt securing the front suspension strut to the steering knuckle | M12x1.25 | 77,5-96,1 (7,9-9,8) |
Nuts securing the front suspension strut rod to the upper support | M 14×1.5 | 65,9-81,2 (6,7-8,3) |
Nuts securing the upper support of the front suspension strut to the body | M8 | 19,6-24,2 (2-2,5) |
Nut of the bolt securing the front suspension arm to the body | M12×1.25 | 77,5-96,1 (7,9-9,8) |
Front suspension extension nuts | M16x1.25 | 160-176,4 (16,3-18) |
Extension bracket mounting bolts | M10x1.25 | 42,1-52,0 (4,3-5,3) |
Nut of the bolt securing the stabilizer bar to the front suspension arm | M10x1.25 | 42,1-52,0 (4,3-5,3) |
Nuts securing the stabilizer bar to the body | M8 | 19,6-24,2 (2-2,5) |
Bolt nut for the lower shock absorber mounting to the rear suspension arm | M12x1.25 | 66,6-82,3 (6,8-8,4) |
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Racks and rack fastenings, supports and other mechanisms - we check
If the rack is knocking, you can determine it more or less simply. At the moment of swinging, you need to attach the hammer handle, for example, to a stand and see if the knock is transmitted to the attached object. It is quite possible that the spring is knocking, which has become deformed and has sagged. It is also possible to get a knock when the rack mounts come loose. There are such problems in these nodes:
- the upper mount of the strut in the form of a support has broken, this can be determined by opening the trunk and placing a finger on the mount, and then rocking the car up and down;
- the lower mount has lost its elasticity, this is also easy to check using the same operation, but only in a hole under the car - put your hand on the mount;
- the strut itself has failed, you can determine this by eliminating all other options and problems with the suspension, then the shock absorber on your car will need to be replaced;
- Next, it’s also worth checking the spring, which can make different sounds, the coils can hit each other, there are a number of other problems that break the spring;
- For a full diagnosis, it is possible to remove the rack and then disassemble the parts with separate diagnostics, but this is carried out at a time when nothing else helps.
Payment via WebMoney
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If you do not have a WebMoney wallet and you want to pay in another way, you need to select any of the methods that WebMoney offers and make the payment
After specifying payment details and confirming payment, payment for the goods will occur.
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Diagnostics of suspension guides
Many cars have a similar rear suspension design, which makes diagnostics and dismantling easier. The differences can only be in the principle of fastening and the type of installed parts. During the diagnosis you should:
- We check the force of the beam, if there are levers. As a rule, due to severe wear, cracks appear, which cause deformation.
- If the hinges are too worn, they can also cause a knocking noise from the rear. Cracks may appear on the hinges, which cause their deformation.
The threaded connection of the flanges used when attaching the guide elements can also cause a problem. The flanges can be repaired, but it is recommended to install new ones. The check is carried out on an overpass or pit, since problems are determined visually or using force (that is, you need to strongly loosen the guide elements with your hands). This will require good lighting. Therefore, it is recommended to carry out work in the garage.
Downloading a book
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If for some reason you did not return back to the site and closed the payment system tab with a message about the successful completion of the payment, please let us know - we will send you a letter indicating access to download the book.
Front suspension of Lada Kalina
When a knock appears in the Kalina front suspension, its entire chassis should be diagnosed. The malfunction usually manifests itself in the form of a creaking or knocking noise. Road imperfections, bumps and cracks have a negative effect on the suspension.
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Features of the suspension mechanism of the Lada Kalina car
- If we examine Kalina's suspension in detail, we can see that the basis of the entire system is shock-absorbing hydraulic struts attached to the steering knuckle from below. The camber element is adjusted thanks to a bolt located at the top of the steering knuckle.
- The components of the unit have a bracket with a hole through which the upper part of this unit passes. The top of the pillar is secured to the mudguard with which the body part is equipped with three nuts. When the car moves, the rack sways in a certain way due to the fact that high-frequency vibrations are damped by the elasticity of the unit.
- The telescopic front suspension of the Lada Kalina is completely independent.
- Kalina's suspension, which has coiled or conical springs, makes the car move smoothly, thanks to the stabilizer located in it. This, like the levers, which are transverse braces, ensures lateral stability of the machine. The wheels turn using a bearing to turn the rack.
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Causes of knocking and creaking in the suspension
Knocking and creaking in the mechanisms of the Lada Kalina car is an indicator of breakdowns of any of the parts in the chassis. The rear suspension breaks down much less frequently than the front suspension, since the main components and elements of the car's operation are assembled at the front.
The malfunction of which part caused the breakdown can only be determined by visual diagnostics of the Lada Kalina car.
It is needed to then carry out effective repairs. There is no need to immediately contact a service station when a knocking or squeaking sound occurs - these manifestations of breakdown can only be caused by a burst rubber band.
Problems when paying with bank cards
Sometimes difficulties may arise when paying with Visa/MasterCard bank cards. The most common of them:
- There is a restriction on the card for paying for online purchases
- A plastic card is not intended for making payments online.
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- There are not enough funds on the plastic card.
In order to solve these problems, you need to call or write to the technical support of the bank where you are served. Bank specialists will help you resolve them and make payments.
That's basically it. The entire process of paying for a book in PDF format on car repair on our website takes 1-2 minutes.
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Description of the rear suspension design of Lada Kalina 1117 2004 - 2013
Rear suspension:
1 — anti-roll bar; 2 — silent block; 3 — suspension arm bracket; 4 — rear suspension beam arm; 5 - beam; 6 — brake drum; 7 — shock absorber; 8 — shock absorber mounting bracket; 9 - spring; 10 — compression progress buffer; 11 — shock absorber casing; 12 — spring gasket; 13 — rear wheel hub; 14 — rear wheel brake mechanism.
The rear suspension is semi-independent, with coil springs and double-acting hydraulic telescopic shock absorbers.
The main load-bearing element of the suspension is a beam with longitudinal arms welded to it through reinforcements. Inside the beam there is a stabilizer bar, the ends of which are welded to the arms. Brackets with eyes for attaching shock absorbers and flanges for attaching rear wheel axles and brake shields are welded to the suspension arms.
At the front, the levers are equipped with welded bushings with silent blocks pressed into them. A bolt passes through the central bushing of the silent block, connecting the lever to the bracket.
To attach the bracket to the body side member, three welded studs are provided. The lower end of the suspension spring rests on a cup welded to the shock absorber reservoir, and the upper end, through a rubber gasket, rests on a support welded from the inside to the wheel arch.
The lower shock absorber eye is bolted to the suspension arm bracket, and its rod is secured to the upper suspension spring support through two rubber pads (one at the bottom of the support, the other at the top) and a support washer (under the nut).
Shock absorber parts:
1 - cover cup; 2 — spring gasket; 3 - shock absorber; 4 - spring; 5 — compression progress buffer; 6 — cover; 7 — rod cushions; 8 — spacer sleeve; 9 — support washer; 10 - spring washer; 11 - nut.
The hub has a double-row roller bearing. The bearing fits on the axle - transitional (with slight interference or clearance). During operation, the bearing does not require replenishment of lubricant. Rear suspension springs are divided into two classes: A - more rigid, B - less rigid.
Springs of class A are marked with brown paint, class B - blue. Springs of the same class must be installed on the right and left sides of the car. Springs of the same class must be installed on the front and rear suspension. In exceptional cases, it is allowed to install class B springs in the rear suspension if class A springs are installed in the front. Installation of class A springs on the rear suspension is not allowed , if class B springs are installed in the front.
Source: https://wiki.zr.ru/150-2_Repair_Kalina