Lada Granta electric power steering does not work reasons

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Lada Granta, 2013

Lada Granta, 2019

Lada Granta, 2021

Lada Granta, 2019

Comments 41

I had this problem.
The EUR stopped working periodically. Diagnostics does not show errors. I changed the speed sensor 2 times. The first time I bought it on the market, I was told that the grant required a speed sensor. I didn’t check the numbers with the old ones; in the end, nothing changed after the replacement. The speedometer works, but the EUR works every now and then. Then I bought exactly the same dachik after checking the numbers. Everything is working. I have the same problem: the EUR turns off when the air conditioner is turned on at idle, but when I move it turns back on! I'm sinning with the generator, just what should I pay attention to?

I drove with this problem for a year, the officials denied the problem and said that everything was fine. The problem was solved by chance when replacing the pads, with the ignition on, I turned the steering wheel all the way in one direction and the other. Perhaps some sensor was touched, but there are no sensors or contacts in the pads. I hope it helps someone.

I have this problem on my Priora. In short, I go to work, get into the car, start it, warm it up, start to move away and the EUR turns off, and only by the end of the evening it doesn’t seem to work for me. I decided to check the charging and this is what happened: with the engine running 13.9, with a stove 13.7, with dimensions and a stove 13.5, with low beam and with a stove and dimensions 13.3 and all together and the high beam in general is 13, I think that’s why the EUR turns off because it doesn’t have enough power, I think There's something wrong with my generator, who knows?

It seems to me that they are lying. Is the relay on the left under the steering wheel clicking?

What kind of relay is it exactly?

I think no. Check the fuse and ALL connectors!

I drive a Lada Granta. Hi all. There was the same problem. The icon flashed and the K4 (ignition switch) relay clicked on turns and on bumps. I redid everything, changed the speed sensor, it didn’t help, I disassembled the steering column, the wires and connectors were normal. The car is almost 4 years old. I solved the problem by cleaning the contacts on the battery, the ground terminal on the thermostat, and the positive terminal on the starter. Now everything is fine. I think it will help someone.

I have the exact same problem. We should also try to clean everything up. What does it have to do with just the mass on the thermostat?

Not the thermostat. There is a male-female connector on the starter, clean them. It is the wire from the ignition switch that, when there is poor contact, clicks the ignition switch relay and therefore the electric amplifier lights up. And the thermostat is just a mass. Oxidized terminals can be cleaned well with ammonia.

I drive a Lada Granta. Hi all. There was the same problem. The icon flashed and the K4 (ignition switch) relay clicked on turns and on bumps. I redid everything, changed the speed sensor, it didn’t help, I disassembled the steering column, the wires and connectors were normal. The car is almost 4 years old. I solved the problem by cleaning the contacts on the battery, the ground terminal on the thermostat, and the positive terminal on the starter. Now everything is fine. I think it will help someone.

Same topic. It also manifested itself as: you turn on the ignition, everything seems to be normal, but the headlights do not turn on and the starter is silent. Everything else lights up and works. The solution to the problem is the same: cleaning the oxidized contacts on the battery, on ground and on the starter, which is the funny thing - on the starter it is more critical, when there was no time to clean the contacts - I just pulled the wire on the power starter and everything worked.

Operating principle of the EUR

Every time you turn the steering wheel, the torsion shaft twists. Information about this process is transmitted from the torque sensor to the control unit online.

Based on the information received, the electronic control unit (hereinafter referred to as the ECU) accumulates information and reads readings from other sensors. The ECU transmits a signal to the electric motor, which increases the torque of the steering rack shaft by activating the electric motor.

Information is processed so quickly that tenths of seconds pass from the moment of transmission to the moment of reading.

Causes of problems

As a rule, when a malfunction occurs with the electric booster, a special yellow light on the instrument panel lights up. But this does not mean that driving is prohibited. No, this is just a sign that the power steering is out of order and the errors need to be corrected, but first, you need to turn off the fuse so that the electric booster does not work at high speeds. But, in order to independently determine and repair the electric amplifier, you need to know what the main symptoms and malfunctions of this mechanism are.

So, let's look at the main symptoms and malfunctions, when they occur, the performance of the power steering deteriorates and, as a rule, a special light should light up to inform you about this.

• The voltage in the network has decreased and become below the permissible value;
• There is no signal from the speed detector;
• The engine speed has increased.

Possible malfunctions of the EUR on the Lada Grante Liftback (Sedan)

Review of prices of manufacturers of electric power steering for the Lada Granta

*prices are current as of October 19, 2018.

Preparatory stage before installing the EUR on the Lada Granta

Note to the driver! There are no differences in installing the EUR on the Lada Granta Sedan and the Lada Granta Liftback. Factory mounts are identical.

• EUR (11186-3450008-02): synchronous power unit, control controller, brackets, shaft, gearbox;
• intermediate bracket (11186-3403172-00);
• non-separable intermediate steering shaft (72780);
• blocks with wires for connecting to the central power circuit (2110-3724155);
• LED indicating the good condition of the amplifier;
• plastic clamps;
• fasteners;
• set of automotive tools;
• insulation;
• clamps.

see also

Comments 40

I had this problem. The EUR stopped working periodically. Diagnostics does not show errors. I changed the speed sensor 2 times. The first time I bought it on the market, I was told that the grant required a speed sensor. I didn’t check the numbers with the old ones; in the end, nothing changed after the replacement. The speedometer works, but the EUR works every now and then. Then I bought exactly the same dachik after checking the numbers. Everything is working.

I have the same problem: the EUR turns off when the air conditioner is turned on at idle, but when I move it turns back on! I'm sinning with the generator, just what should I pay attention to?

I drove with this problem for a year, the officials denied the problem and said that everything was fine. The problem was solved by chance when replacing the pads, with the ignition on, I turned the steering wheel all the way in one direction and the other. Perhaps some sensor was touched, but there are no sensors or contacts in the pads. I hope it helps someone.

I have this problem on my Priora. In short, I go to work, get into the car, start it, warm it up, start to move away and the EUR turns off, and only by the end of the evening it doesn’t seem to work for me. I decided to check the charging and this is what happened: with the engine running 13.9, with a stove 13.7, with dimensions and a stove 13.5, with low beam and with a stove and dimensions 13.3 and all together and the high beam in general 13, I think that’s why the EUR turns off because it doesn’t have enough power, I think There's something wrong with my generator, who knows?

It seems to me that they are lying. Is the relay on the left under the steering wheel clicking?

What kind of relay is it exactly?

I think no. Check the fuse and ALL connectors!

I drive a Lada Granta. Hi all. There was the same problem. The icon flashed and the K4 (ignition switch) relay clicked on turns and on bumps. I redid everything, changed the speed sensor, it didn’t help, I disassembled the steering column, the wires and connectors were normal. The car is almost 4 years old. I solved the problem by cleaning the contacts on the battery, the ground terminal on the thermostat, and the positive terminal on the starter. Now everything is fine. I think it will help someone.

I have the exact same problem. We should also try to clean everything up. What does it have to do with just the mass on the thermostat?

Not the thermostat. There is a male-female connector on the starter, clean them. It is the wire from the ignition switch that, when there is poor contact, clicks the ignition switch relay and therefore the electric amplifier lights up. And the thermostat is just a mass. Oxidized terminals can be cleaned well with ammonia.

I have two EURs, one has a faulty torque sensor, that is, it turns itself off, and the second one seems to have a mechanical problem, not much play in the steering wheel. Is it possible to assemble one of the two?

I solved this problem for myself! www.drive2.ru/l/8034274/

I had the following signs of a liftback, changed the speed sensor and everything was fire

Tell me, did the speedometer work at the same time (before replacing the speed sensor, but with EUR glitches)?

Reviews

Conclusion

What does Kalina's power steering consist of?

This unit is an independent device included in the steering mechanism of the Lada Kalina. It allows the driver to turn the steering wheel without much effort, and also ensures softness and smooth operation of the moving parts of the steering system.

Structurally, this mechanism cannot be classified as complex units. The electric power steering has the following parts:

• electric motor;
• gear unit;
• control module;
• sensors that monitor the torque, speed and number of revolutions made by the crankshaft.

The Lada Kalina on-board controller continuously monitors the functioning of this amplifier and controls its operation, but malfunctions do occur and many car owners are very interested in how to eliminate them. The mechanism is activated at engine speeds of 400 rpm. When the speed exceeds 60 km per hour, the electric booster stops functioning. This is done for the sake of safety, because at high speeds the driver must have confident feedback on the steering wheel, which a “light” steering wheel is not able to provide. With increasing speed, a gradual decrease in the magnitude of the force in the mechanism is observed.

A little history

Only 12 years later, in 2002, domestic engineers from Novosibirsk University began developing a Russian electric amplifier. After the completion of the project, the unit was refined and tested for several years at the AvtoVAZ plant.

New device

The engineers' task was to create a worthy analogue to foreign amplifiers, to provide the unit with the necessary advantages, durability and reliability. At the same time, unlike imported analogues, our electric amplifiers were much cheaper.

Today, these devices are produced by the Berdsk Electromechanical Plant, located in Russia and a subsidiary of AvtoVAZ.

Main advantages of the first ES

The electric amplifier would not be so in demand and popular without the obvious advantages that it brought along with its appearance. The strengths of this steering system include:

• The unit operates even when the power unit is turned off;
• The unit allows partial fuel savings, which has a positive effect on fuel consumption;
• Handling is improved in all components;
• Reliability of maneuvers at the highest level;
• Excellent safety record with regular use.

EUR malfunctions and their diagnosis

Despite the simplicity of the design of the unit we are considering, if the need for repair arises, it is difficult to carry out; there are different malfunctions and the methods of elimination are often complex. An important “aggravating” circumstance is the poor location of the mechanism. The manufacturer placed this module directly under the radiator of the LADA Kalina interior heating circuit.

Operation in cold weather has a temperature effect on the electric power steering. Over time, this factor causes malfunctions in the amplifier. This phenomenon is very common for Lada Kalina. If a unit fails, the driver immediately feels it becomes more difficult to control the car at low speeds. The most common factors leading to electrical amplifier malfunctions can be grouped into the following areas:

• the speed sensor “does not respond” and does not send signals to the ECU;
• the on-board network “suffers” from low voltage;
• the maximum speed has exceeded the permissible limit;
• The control module has become unusable.

Fuse box location

If you suspect that a fuse has blown and you want to check it, then the question arises: where is the Priora electric power steering fuse located? The control mounting block is located to the left of the steering wheel. Its opening scheme is simple. All you need to do is turn the three latches 90˚ and remove the cover, as shown in the photo, and you get to the brain stuffing of the car.

Here you can check and replace the failed fuse, then close the lid by pressing it tightly and snapping the three latches back 90˚ in the opposite direction.

You can carry out diagnostics and minor repairs to the Priora's electric power steering with your own hands. To do this, it is enough to determine what caused the failure and fix the problem, following our advice. It is better to entrust a complete replacement of the electric amplifier to professionals.

Electric power steering is a component used to provide more comfortable driving. Not so long ago, domestically produced cars began to be equipped with EUR, in particular, in this article we will talk about Lada Kalinas. What malfunctions can occur with the Kalina EUR and what troubleshooting methods are there? Find answers to these and other questions below.

Causes of EUR failure

Dismantling and disassembling the electric amplifier

How to tighten the electric power steering rack?

Photo gallery “Adjusting the steering rack”

How can I lubricate and adjust the EUR?

Electric power steering connection diagram with icons

Video “Guide to repairing an electric booster in a garage”

Comments and Reviews

About qualified electric amplifier replacement

If there is a need to replace the mechanism when the ESD does not work, we recommend contacting experienced technicians. When the car is under warranty, the most rational measure would be to contact the dealer network to resolve the problem.

There are situations that do not allow you to resort to these two methods of eliminating an amplifier malfunction. Then the only solution will be to manually replace the mechanism that has become unusable.

Let us immediately make a reservation that the replacement process if the EUR does not work is characterized by sufficient complexity. To carry it out successfully, you will need experience and the possession of special tools. Unqualified replacement actions can aggravate the scale of the breakdown, which will entail a significant waste of money on more expensive repairs in service conditions.

Before the actual replacement procedure, we recommend that you carefully study the entire list of features and actions if the ESD does not work. Here you will need to delve into the connection diagram of the unit, which will avoid damage to the electrical components of the mechanism.

To remove the amplifier, partial disassembly of the front panel of the Lada Kalina is necessary. After this, the device itself must be disconnected from the entire list of supply wires. Sometimes owners repair the electric power steering, avoiding the need to replace it with a new unit. As a rule, after a complex of restoration work, standard devices work no worse than their new counterparts.

A common malfunction is the occurrence of a knock that clearly comes to the driver from under the panel or the amplifier turns off. This phenomenon may be accompanied by a characteristic squeak that occurs during rotational actions with the LADA Kalina steering wheel. This situation is usually solved by using a special lubricant. If such an action does not bring the expected result, then a more detailed diagnosis of the amplification mechanism will be required.

To install the electric power steering in the seat of the Lada Kalina, you will need to be attentive and patient. All cable connectors must be tightly seated, and the device itself must be firmly secured. Only after this can you proceed to the reassembly of the previously dismantled front panel components.

How to tighten the electric power steering rack?

The appearance of a knocking sound in the operation of the electric power steering is associated with the need to tighten the steering rack.

How to do it right:

1. First you need to disconnect the battery; to do this, disconnect the terminals from it. Unscrew the battery mount; to do this, you need to unscrew two more nuts located at the edges. After this, the battery is removed and put aside.
2. Then you need to lift the plastic stand, there are four more screws under it, they can also be unscrewed.
3. Having done this, it is necessary to move this stand forward until the platform is disconnected from the air filter housing retainer pad. After this, the trim can be moved back, this will provide freer access to the rail itself.
4. At the next stage, you will need to crawl your hand under the rail. Directly below it, as shown in the photo, there is a rubberized cap; it will need to be removed, this will allow the key to access the adjusting nut.
5. To perform adjustment work, you will need a special wrench to tighten the rack; without it, the adjustment procedure will not be possible. Using this wrench, you need to crawl under the car rail to install the tool in the required hole.
6. When adjusting, be careful not to overtighten the rack. If its tightening is very strong, then when cornering the rack will bite, and this, in turn, may affect the safety of movement. The angle of adjustment is always different, it depends on how much the nut is loose, but usually when performing such work the nut is tightened by approximately 30 degrees. This should be enough to get everything right. After the adjustment is completed, it will be necessary to check that this task was performed correctly. That is, you will need to make sure that the steering wheel turns normally to any position all the way and there is no knocking. If the knock remains, then the adjustment continues.

Photo gallery “Adjusting the steering rack”