Malfunctions of the electric power steering of the Lada Granta

Greetings to everyone who came here. Actually, I would like to tell/ask about the breakdown of the EUR. To begin with: it began to behave inappropriately, then it constantly strengthened (the steering wheel was too soft at speed), then one fine day it completely switched off at a speed of 80-100 km/h, which, frankly speaking, caused quite a few troubles (I never would have thought that it is so difficult to rotate it without an amplifier on the grant). Common sense dictated that it was necessary to urgently look for the problem and this could not continue. But the problem was that I have little idea what EUR is and what it is eaten with. The first thing that came to mind was to remove the casing and check the EUR itself and the contacts going to it, learning at the same time that you can do its self-diagnosis. Well, it looks like the self-diagnosis item has broken down because there is a Korean with GM nameplates on which there is no information at all. Contacts? Well, I disconnected it, inserted it again - there are no oxides or anything else (which in general is not surprising), the power fuse is quite alive. To be honest, I didn’t know what else you could check with your paws. Then diagnostics was carried out using a normal scanner, which gave the following information:

This was better, but still doesn't answer my questions. 1) A DCM error is kind of like a Torque Sensor error. But not a word about him was found on the Internet. It seems to me that when trying to replace it, there will be problems in the form of the fact that it is not in the official catalog (there is generally only an assembled EUR), and therefore it is not a fact that it is generally sold separately. 2) Failure in the speed sensor circuit - this is already closer and warmer, it seems that all you need to do is replace this very sensor, but the circuit will also have to be changed/checked. 3) Also, when viewing the readings, the force reading was out of line. It was negative, namely -120.ХХХ (where X is a variable), when rotating on a stationary machine, the info changes, but still remains a negative value. Something like this, the further procedure of action is not very clear to me to be honest. It seems that erasing the errors helped, but since I drove for a long time with a power steering booster (actually a couple of days, but I got used to it quickly, as if you were driving with a power steering system) and it’s difficult to draw accurate conclusions about whether the problem has gone away, and it’s still too early. The war is not over. That’s all, it seems, that’s all. At the moment, from my thoughts on the matter - how disgusting and incomprehensible everything is. Go straight to the officials with the face of a naive young man for a guarantee

The electric power steering in the Lada Kalina is designed to provide increased comfort while driving. The car itself has only recently appeared on the domestic market, but has managed to gain considerable popularity. The car is quite practical and convenient, which allows it to have a wide army of fans. The cost of the model is low, which ensures favorable positioning in the market compared to competitors in the class. In this article we will talk about malfunctions and ways to eliminate them.

Battery problems

Based on this, we can draw the first conclusions about the cause of the breakdown. A common cause of malfunction is low voltage in the on-board network. The fact is that for the amplifier to function, a supply voltage of 13.5V is required.

First of all, we test the battery, if everything is fine with it, then we’ll look into it further. The problem may have occurred when you removed the battery for charging. To make the electric booster work again, turn the wheels to the extreme position and back 5-6 times, very often this is enough to resume operation.

Lada Granta Fan Bot › Logbook › Electric power steering turned off

Who understands what the heck maybe with an amplifier, 3rd day brain (the central part of the nervous system of animals, usually located in the head part of the body and is a compact accumulation of nerve cells and their processes)

It turns out it works, sometimes it doesn’t work! It may turn off while driving, the light on the amplifier instrument panel lights up, the speedometer works so the speed sensor disappears, the tachometer works, the voltage is normal! Does anyone have any thoughts on this! It's starting to get stressful...

Mileage: 9,400 km

Wiring fault

In the case when the battery is in order, we look at the wiring; weather conditions, frost, rain or heat may be associated factors. If the electric power steering on a Priora turns off when weather conditions change, then this is a clear sign of a wiring fault. Check the soldering and insulation of the winding; a short circuit may occur.

The Priora's electric power steering does not work all the time. The maximum load on the electric motor occurs at low or no speed, and the minimum at high speed. So, in the Priora, at a speed of 110 km/h, the electric booster is completely turned off. At the same time, feedback to the steering wheel becomes maximum. The Kalina electric power steering switches off already at 60 km/h.

EUR does not work on grant reasons

For the first time, the Russian auto industry installed electric power steering on Kalina. At the first stages, it worked extremely unstably, up to a complete shutdown. Later, they tried to eliminate the shortcomings, but the EUR remained a weak link and periodically fails, as evidenced by the exclamation mark on the panel. This is evidenced by the feeling of a heavy steering wheel, and turning with one hand becomes difficult.

The principle of operation of the electric booster is to reduce the force that needs to be applied when turning the steering wheel. The Kalina electric power steering control unit uses sensors to calculate the operation of the electric motor at the current speed and torque. Thereby giving a signal of the effort with which the driver needs to be helped when turning. After all, it does not work constantly and needs adjustment, which is carried out by the block.

Chip errors

When a situation is observed that the wheels turn on their own, the reason is the electronic filling of the Priora electric power steering control unit. As mentioned above, quality was sacrificed for the sake of economy. Now the situation with this seems to have improved and everything has been finalized, but if suddenly you feel that the steering wheel is starting to move by itself, go for repairs.

If, along with the electric power steering, the speedometer also fails, then you need to look at the speed sensor. It was either simply dirty or broken. The same applies to the torque sensor installed on the amplifier. Clean them well and check their functionality.

Don’t forget to reset errors on the on-board computer; this can be done in several ways.

1. Remove the terminal from the battery, wait a few seconds and put it back, the error should go away.
2. Using a computer, the corresponding software can be found on the Internet.

Operating principle of the EUR

Every time you turn the steering wheel, the torsion shaft twists. Information about this process is transmitted from the torque sensor to the control unit online.

Based on the information received, the electronic control unit (hereinafter referred to as the ECU) accumulates information and reads readings from other sensors. The ECU transmits a signal to the electric motor, which increases the torque of the steering rack shaft by activating the electric motor.

Information is processed so quickly that tenths of seconds pass from the moment of transmission to the moment of reading.

Fuse box location

If you suspect that a fuse has blown and you want to check it, then the question arises: where is the Priora electric power steering fuse located? The control mounting block is located to the left of the steering wheel. Its opening scheme is simple. All you need to do is turn the three latches 90˚ and remove the cover, as shown in the photo, and you get to the brain stuffing of the car.

Here you can check and replace the failed fuse, then close the lid by pressing it tightly and snapping the three latches back 90˚ in the opposite direction.

You can carry out diagnostics and minor repairs to the Priora's electric power steering with your own hands. To do this, it is enough to determine what caused the failure and fix the problem, following our advice. It is better to entrust a complete replacement of the electric amplifier to professionals.

Electric power steering is a component used to provide more comfortable driving. Not so long ago, domestically produced cars began to be equipped with EUR, in particular, in this article we will talk about Lada Kalinas. What malfunctions can occur with the Kalina EUR and what troubleshooting methods are there? Find answers to these and other questions below.

Causes of EUR failure

Dismantling and disassembling the electric amplifier

How to tighten the electric power steering rack?

Photo gallery “Adjusting the steering rack”

How can I lubricate and adjust the EUR?

Electric power steering connection diagram with icons

Video “Guide to repairing an electric booster in a garage”

Comments and Reviews

Reviews

Conclusion

Installing an EUR on Granta Standard is completely justified and necessary. To prevent breakdowns and incorrect operation of the mechanism, order services from certified service stations, where they provide a quality guarantee.

Negative reviews addressed to the EUR are caused by violation of operating conditions by the owners and unprofessional installation.

The electric power steering in the Lada Kalina is designed to provide increased comfort while driving. The car itself has only recently appeared on the domestic market, but has managed to gain considerable popularity. The car is quite practical and convenient, which allows it to have a wide army of fans. The cost of the model is low, which ensures favorable positioning in the market compared to competitors in the class. In this article we will talk about malfunctions and ways to eliminate them.

Causes of EUR failure

Why does the electric power steering on the Lada Kalina not work, turns off and refuses to work, what are the signs of a steering wheel with power steering knocking, jamming, biting or squeaking? To repair the system yourself, you need to know how diagnostics are carried out and what causes precede the breakdown. Most often, the failure of the amplifier is caused by a breakdown of the unit itself and the amplifier fails. Problems of this type are resolved by thoroughly checking the system to identify the exact problem.

As practice shows, often the inoperability of the electric amplifier (failure) is associated with a breakdown of the speed controller.

• the steering wheel is jammed,
• jams
• becomes tight
• and others

Because the speed controller sensor ensures activation and deactivation of the electric power steering under different driving modes. The amplifier on Kalina works if the car is moving at low speed. When the speed begins to increase, the booster automatically turns off, allowing for safer machine control when driving at high speeds.

So, briefly about the reasons for the inoperability of the EUR:

1. The speed controller has failed or the control unit does not receive or disappears a signal from it. In this case, the reason may lie in either a breakdown of the sensor, damaged wiring, or poor contact of the controller with the on-board network.
2. The voltage in the vehicle's electrical network has decreased. The reasons can be different, ranging from a dead battery and an inoperative generator to the use of inappropriate electrical equipment in the car.
3. The permissible crankshaft speed has been exceeded.
4. Incorrect operation or failure of the control module. Depending on the cause, the control unit may need to be repaired; more detailed diagnostics need to be done.

Reasons for shutdown

The main reason lies in the electric power steering. When ignited, the system performs a self-diagnosis and if the mechanism does not pass it, a signal is turned on indicating a malfunction. The color of the signal indicates the degree of danger. The light turns red, the problem needs to be fixed urgently. If the color is yellow, the vehicle can be operated, but safety precautions should be taken. There may be several reasons why the electric power steering on Kalina does not work:

• speed sensor malfunction;
• torque sensor malfunction;
• speed exceeds 60 km/h;
• engine speed is less than 400 per minute;
• failure in the control unit;
• poorly soldered contacts;
• insufficient tension.

Software shutdown

1. The electric power steering on Kalina turns off after 60 km/h. Therefore, keep this point in mind; it is set in the system unit and is not a breakdown. The Priora's electric power steering is switched off at a speed of 110 km/h.
2. Also, the EUR does not work at low engine speeds. If the value is less than 400 rpm, it is not active.

This is software planned inactivity. It is needed to give information to the steering wheel at high speed and reduce wear of the mechanism.

Electrical booster malfunctions

In the event that it is impossible to immediately check the cause of failure of the electric power steering on Kalina, you need to remove the fuse from the block. This is necessary to prevent sudden activation of the mechanism, which leads to emergency situations.

Diagnostics

To check the amplifier in a car, you need to remove the plastic trim on the steering column; to do this, unscrew the bolts securing it from the bottom.

Then you will need to get to the 8-pin plug, its pinout is as follows:

• The blue contact is connected to the ignition switch, this is 12 volt power;
• the red-brown contact is the connection cable to the tachometer;
• the gray contact goes to the car speed controller;
• white and pink wire - amplifier control indicator;
• black-yellow contact is a diagnostic line;
• the next contact is empty, the wire is not connected to it;
• brown contact is ground;
• empty.

Lada Granta Electric Power Steering Doesn't Work

Diagnostics (the process of establishing a diagnosis, that is, a conclusion about the nature of the disease and the patient’s condition)

Lada steering wheel without scanner

Lada Kalina, Grant and Priora cars can be equipped with power steering (EUR) from various manufacturers (for example, Kaluga or Makhachkala). If deficiencies are found in its operation (failed, does not work, turned off, etc.), a special scanner must diagnose. You can also find reasons for failures without special equipment, using the paperclip method.

You need to remove the plastic housing of the control column (unscrew the mounting screws from the bottom) and get to the 8-pin dark connector.

He has one clove :

1. Blue (ignition switch 12V);
2. Brown-red (tachometer);
3. Grayish (car speed);
4. Pink and snow white (EMUR indicator);
5. Yellow-black (K-line);
6. Empty (L-line, no wire connected)
7. Brown (mass)
8. Empty.

Make EUR diagnostics (the process of establishing a diagnosis, that is, a conclusion about the nature of the disease and the patient’s condition)

without scanner
required:

1. Turn off the ignition;
2. Close pins 6 and 7 of this connector with a piece of wire or a paper clip (do not remove the connector);
3. Turn on the ignition;
4. Determine the fault code for the flickering of the steering wheel fault indicator on the composition of the devices.

Determining the ER error code on a flashing lamp:

• initial pause time 2 s;
• the duration of the long signal is 2 seconds;
• short signal duration 0.5 seconds;
• the duration of the pause between signals is 0.5 seconds;
• pause between codes 2 sec

Dismantling and disassembling the electric amplifier

Before removing the amplifier, you need to remove all the steering column switches. Remove the steering rack cover and dismantle the devices, remembering to disconnect the connectors from the power supply.

How to remove the EUR with your own hands:

1. After removing the switches, you will need to dismantle the lower cross member of the dashboard. To do this, you need to press the fasteners that secure the connector with wires, and then disconnect the wiring from the control module. Once these steps are completed, you can disconnect the connector from the switches.
2. The system bracket is secured with nuts; you will need to unscrew them with a wrench.
3. After this, the steering rack will need to be carefully lowered down. To do this, you will need to find the bolt that secures the driveshaft to the booster shaft. This bolt must be unscrewed, but when unscrewing, you will need to fix the nut, this will prevent it from turning. When the bolt is removed, the fastening will need to be loosened, after which the intermediate shaft will be carefully removed. At this stage, we recommend marking the position of the shaft and gears; you can use a marker for this. This step is very important because doing it will prevent possible installation problems in the future. If the marks on the shafts do not match, this may cause problems with the amplifier. When dismantling, be careful not to damage the wiring, as this will also lead to the inoperability of the ESD.
4. When the unit is dismantled, it will need to be disassembled and the failed elements replaced. Further editing is done in reverse order (the author of the video is Murzik Bely).

Electrical faults of the electric booster

When troubleshooting electrical problems, be sure to remove the terminal from the battery. This procedure must be performed during any electrical work in the car.

Operation failure

It happens that when you turn the key in the ignition switch, the icon indicating a malfunction in the EUR turns on again. A possible malfunction is a breakdown of the amplifier drive motor. It is possible to fix such a malfunction yourself if you have electrical knowledge. If you are unable to repair the electric motor, it is recommended to replace it with another one.

Operation failure may also occur in the following cases:

• The fuse has blown. However, it is recommended to replace the fuse only after eliminating the cause of its blown. The fuse is designed to protect the electrical circuit from short circuits. When the wires are shorted, they heat up and the fuse link melts, breaking the electrical circuit. There is probably an overlap of wires in the circuit and their further short circuit. Eliminate the cause and only then change the fuse.
• Poor contact at the connections, resulting in a lack of power in the amplifier circuit. Correct the contacts or clean the wire connections.

Speed ​​sensor

One of the most vulnerable elements of the system is the speed sensor. This is an electrical device that is designed to control the electric drive of the amplifier at various speeds.

The fact is that using ESD at high speed can cause an accident, since the slightest rotation of the steering wheel will lead to the car being driven off the road. This sensor reads the speedometer and, as speed increases, weakens the power steering effect. Thus, it turns out that at high speed the power steering operates in the same way as when using a mechanical amplifier.

The main malfunction of the sensor is its failure. If the sensor fails, the amplifier circuit does not receive speedometer readings and the amplifier is turned off. After this, a special icon on the instrument panel lights up (steering wheel with an exclamation mark). In this mode, the amplifier operates without an electric drive and does not interfere with the steering. In this case, you just need to remove fuse F31 in the block to the left of the steering wheel to completely disconnect the circuit before replacing the speed sensor.

Ultimately, to fix this problem, you just need to change the speed sensor.

How to tighten the electric power steering rack?

The appearance of a knocking sound in the operation of the electric power steering is associated with the need to tighten the steering rack.

How to do it right:

1. First you need to disconnect the battery; to do this, disconnect the terminals from it. Unscrew the battery mount; to do this, you need to unscrew two more nuts located at the edges. After this, the battery is removed and put aside.
2. Then you need to lift the plastic stand, there are four more screws under it, they can also be unscrewed.
3. Having done this, it is necessary to move this stand forward until the platform is disconnected from the air filter housing retainer pad. After this, the trim can be moved back, this will provide freer access to the rail itself.
4. At the next stage, you will need to crawl your hand under the rail. Directly below it, as shown in the photo, there is a rubberized cap; it will need to be removed, this will allow the key to access the adjusting nut.
5. To perform adjustment work, you will need a special wrench to tighten the rack; without it, the adjustment procedure will not be possible. Using this wrench, you need to crawl under the car rail to install the tool in the required hole.
6. When adjusting, be careful not to overtighten the rack. If its tightening is very strong, then when cornering the rack will bite, and this, in turn, may affect the safety of movement. The angle of adjustment is always different, it depends on how much the nut is loose, but usually when performing such work the nut is tightened by approximately 30 degrees. This should be enough to get everything right. After the adjustment is completed, it will be necessary to check that this task was performed correctly. That is, you will need to make sure that the steering wheel turns normally to any position all the way and there is no knocking. If the knock remains, then the adjustment continues.

see also

Comments 41

I had this problem. The EUR periodically stopped working. Diagnostics (the process of establishing a diagnosis, that is, a conclusion about the nature of the disease and the patient’s condition)

does not indicate errors. I changed the speed sensor 2 times. I bought it for the first time on the market, said I needed a speed sensor on the grant. I didn’t check the numbers with the old one; in the end, after the replacement, nothing changed. The speedometer works, but the EUR works every other time. Later I bought literally the same dachik after checking the numbers. Everything is working.

I have this problem: the EUR turns off when the air conditioner is turned on at idle, but when moving backwards it turns on! I'm sinning on the generator, just what should I pay attention to?

I traveled with this problem for a year, the officials refuted the problem and said that everything was fine. The problem occurred randomly when changing the pads; with the ignition on, I turned the steering wheel all the way in one direction or the other. Some sensor may have been touched, but there are no sensors or contacts in the pads. I hope it helps someone.

I have this problem with my Priora. In short, I go to work, get into the car, start it up, warm it up, start to drive off and the power steering switches off, and only by the end of the evening it doesn’t seem to work properly. I decided to check the charging and this is what happened: with the engine running 13.9, with a stove of 13.7, with dimensions and a stove of 13.5, with low beam and with a stove and dimensions of 13.3 and everything together and completely distant 13, I think that’s why the EUR turns off, because it doesn’t have enough power, I think I have something wrong with my generator, can anyone tell me what it is?

It seems to me that they are lying. Is the relay on the left under the steering wheel clicking?

What kind of relay is that specifically?

I think no. Look at the fuse and the connectors are ALL!

I drive a Lada Granta. Hi all. There was the same failure. The icon flashed and the K4 (ignition switch) relay clicked on turns and on bumps. I redid everything, changed the speed sensor, it didn’t help, I disassembled the control column, wire connectors were normal. The car is almost 4 years old. I solved the problem by cleaning the contacts on the battery, the ground terminal on the thermostat, and the positive terminal on the starter. Now everything is unbeatable. I think it will help someone.

I have the exact same problem. You also need to try to clear everything. What does it have to do with just the mass on the thermostat?

Not the thermostat. There is a male-female connector on the starter, clean them. It is the wire from the ignition switch that, when there is poor contact, clicks the ignition switch relay and therefore the electric amplifier ignites. And the thermostat is just a mass. Ammonia perfectly cleans oxidized terminals.

I drive a Lada Granta. Hi all. There was the same failure. The icon flashed and the K4 (ignition switch) relay clicked on turns and on bumps. I redid everything, changed the speed sensor, it didn’t help, I disassembled the control column, wire connectors were normal. The car is almost 4 years old. I solved the problem by cleaning the contacts on the battery, the ground terminal on the thermostat, and the positive terminal on the starter. Now everything is unbeatable. I think it will help someone.

Same topic. It also manifested itself as: you turn on the ignition, everything seems to be normal, but the headlights don’t turn on and the starter is silent. Everything else shines and works. The solution to the problem is the same: cleaning the oxidized contacts on the battery, on the ground and on the starter, which is the funniest thing - on the starter it is most critical, when there was no time to clean the contacts - I just pulled the wire on the power starter and everything worked.

Source: www.drive2.ru

How can I lubricate and adjust the EUR?

How and with what to lubricate the amplifier?

Litol can be used as a lubricant; the procedure is performed as follows:

1. First you need to remove the plastic casing; to do this, unscrew the bolts that secure it. To unscrew, use a Phillips head screwdriver. It is also advisable to remove the lower cross member of the instrument panel, located under the steering wheel.
2. Next, unscrew the two bolts that secure the amplifier itself; for this you will need a 13mm wrench. After this, the column can be released down.
3. Unscrew another bolt, after which you can do the actual lubrication.
4. First, the steering wheel is turned to the left until it stops. The lubricant is poured into a 10 cc syringe, which needs to be sprayed into the hole formed. You need to throw out all 10 cubes.
5. Then the steering wheel is turned to the right until it stops - the syringe is again directed into the hole, all the lubricant is sprayed out.
6. After this, the steering wheel should be turned to the middle position and again sprinkled with lubricant into the hole.
7. Next, the steering wheel must be turned in different directions until it stops several times. The lubrication operation is repeated again.
8. Then all the components are assembled in reverse order.

EUR malfunctions and their diagnosis

Despite the simplicity of the design of the unit we are considering, if the need for repair arises, it is difficult to carry out; there are different malfunctions and the methods of elimination are often complex. An important “aggravating” circumstance is the poor location of the mechanism. The manufacturer placed this module directly under the radiator of the LADA Kalina interior heating circuit.

Operation in cold weather has a temperature effect on the electric power steering. Over time, this factor causes malfunctions in the amplifier. This phenomenon is very common for Lada Kalina. If a unit fails, the driver immediately feels it becomes more difficult to control the car at low speeds. The most common factors leading to electrical amplifier malfunctions can be grouped into the following areas:

• the speed sensor “does not respond” and does not send signals to the ECU;
• the on-board network “suffers” from low voltage;
• the maximum speed has exceeded the permissible limit;
• The control module has become unusable.

The identified malfunctions and solutions will be discussed below. When the ignition is turned on, the ECU independently diagnoses the amplifier system for possible failures and malfunctions. If there is no signal from any of the sensors, the on-board controller automatically identifies this sensor as faulty, and the corresponding lamp on the display on the front panel of the cabin immediately lights up. This indicator looks like a steering wheel with an exclamation mark and is highlighted in orange.

The instructions supplied by the factory to the LADA Kalina car require immediate repairs if a malfunction is detected in the electric power steering mechanism, especially when the power is turned off. In such a situation, the driver should drive to the service center at low speed. Practice shows that this development of events does not always take place. An orange symbol on the dashboard may not indicate the need for repair procedures. It indicates the presence of a problem in one of the structural components of the system. Sometimes failures can occur in the supply circuit or one of the sensors has failed. These situations do not in any way affect the functionality of the node, and control control remains active.

If the steering wheel, after the indicated symbol is illuminated, has lost sensitivity, then a malfunction of this kind is considered quite dangerous, since it interferes with the normal functioning of the mechanism as a whole; it is also bad when the amplifier is turned off. Such problems arise quite often and really require urgent intervention. Ignoring this state of affairs may be associated with dire consequences for the LADA Kalina car. In order to quickly respond to a problem that has arisen, we quickly remove the fuse located in the panel block on the left side of the steering wheel. This measure prevents further damage to the electrical amplification system, since it completely deactivates it. You can go to the repair site, but you will need to apply more force to the steering wheel, because the amplifier is no longer functioning.

vendor code

Standard Electric power steering VAZ 1118 (Kalina), Granta, Datsun On-Do (Mi-Do), Priora 11186-3450008-02, 1117-3450008-02

Manufacturer: Autoelectronics, Kaluga, Russia

Price 20,500 rubles

What malfunctions threaten the EUR on Kalina and what are the methods for eliminating them?

Electric power steering is a unit used to provide the most convenient control of the vehicle. Not so long ago, Russian-made cars began to be equipped with EUR, namely, in this article we will talk about Lada Kalinas. What malfunctions can occur with the Kalina EUR and what methods are there to eliminate the problems? Find answers to these and other questions below.

Lada Granta Electric Power Steering Doesn't Work

Diagnostics (the process of establishing a diagnosis, that is, a conclusion about the nature of the disease and the patient’s condition)

Lada steering wheel without scanner

Lada Kalina, Grant and Priora cars can be equipped with power steering (EUR) from various manufacturers (for example, Kaluga or Makhachkala). If deficiencies are found in its operation (failed, does not work, turned off, etc.), a special scanner must diagnose. You can also find reasons for failures without special equipment, using the paperclip method.

You need to remove the plastic housing of the control column (unscrew the mounting screws from the bottom) and get to the 8-pin dark connector.

He has one clove :

1. Blue (ignition switch 12V);
2. Brown-red (tachometer);
3. Grayish (car speed);
4. Pink and snow white (EMUR indicator);
5. Yellow-black (K-line);
6. Empty (L-line, no wire connected)
7. Brown (mass)
8. Empty.

Make EUR diagnostics (the process of establishing a diagnosis, that is, a conclusion about the nature of the disease and the patient’s condition)

without scanner
required:

1. Turn off the ignition;
2. Close pins 6 and 7 of this connector with a piece of wire or a paper clip (do not remove the connector);
3. Turn on the ignition;
4. Determine the fault code for the flickering of the steering wheel fault indicator on the composition of the devices.

Determining the ER error code on a flashing lamp:

• initial pause time 2 s;
• the duration of the long signal is 2 seconds;
• short signal duration 0.5 seconds;
• the duration of the pause between signals is 0.5 seconds;
• pause between codes 2 sec

Error codes for power steering:

11 System OK

12 No engine speed signal

The steering grant has stopped working

Installation/disassembly/soldering took 3 hours. Cash costs 0 rub. The video indicates that I forgot to turn off.

Diagnostics (the process of establishing a diagnosis, that is, a conclusion about the essence of the disease and the patient’s condition) using the VAZ method (EMUR Electric power wheel) VAZ “paper clips” Kalina, Priorat

The video editor decided on the phone that the video property would be trampled)))) Another nasty discovery Call.

13 Torque sensor malfunction

14 EMUR motor malfunction

15 Control position sensor malfunction

16 EMUR Motor rotor position sensor malfunction

17 faulty electronic system of the car (below 10 V or more than 18 V)

18 EMUR control unit malfunction

Diagnostic defect codes EUR with a special scanner: