Installation and repair of a gearbox on a Lada Granta with a cable drive: adjusting the cables

Lada Granta was created as a budget car, an alternative to Lada Kalina. Despite this, Granta took many elements from Kalina, including the power frame, chassis and transmission. As for the latter, the Granta already received an improved manual transmission of the Lada Kalina as standard.

The update did not help get rid of all the inherent problems. And in 2011, the traction gearbox was replaced by a more advanced cable gearbox. And, starting from 2012, the manual Granta is equipped exclusively with this version of the manual transmission.

Characteristics of all types of Lada Granta gearboxes

The first manual transmission of this sedan and liftback class model received the index 2180. It was soon replaced by a modernized cable-driven gearbox, which is indexed as 2181. It is installed starting with the “standard” configuration.

Traction and cable gearbox Lada Granta

The difference between these two checkpoints is obvious. The first and most important thing is to use, instead of rigid rods that increase vibration on the body and rocker, more flexible cables from the Japanese manufacturer Atsumitec. In addition, gearbox 2180 differed from 2181 in other parameters.

  1. The 2181 has cone-shaped synchronizers, which reduces the impact on the gear lever when setting 1st or 2nd speed.
  2. The clutch disc has become larger in diameter (215 mm). Because of this, the clutch housing increased in size, and the starter began to be located along the internal combustion engine.
  3. The synchronizers received teeth with a reduced angle bevel (100 degrees), and the initial preload force was reduced to 70 Nm.
  4. A different mechanism for selecting speeds was developed by Schaeffler. In addition, it was moved upward, which made it possible to reduce the effort when switching in cold weather and eliminate oil smudges.
  5. The clarity of gear shifting is made possible, among other things, thanks to the selector plate.
  6. Instead of mineral gear oil, semi-synthetic oil was used from the factory, and the oil volume was reduced to 2.2 liters.

Structurally, the gearbox has become not only more reliable, but also more comfortable for the driver. Vibrations to the gearshift lever and the body as a whole have decreased significantly. The speeds began to turn on clearly and without delay. At the same time, the modernization of the gearbox on the Lada Granta and Kalina 2 entailed an average increase in price by 5,000 rubles. According to experts, the main difference between the updated transmission is not so much in reliability, but in the quality of gear selection.

What is characteristic is that the new editions of the Lada Priora did not receive a cable gearbox; this car is still equipped with an outdated VAZ 2180 with rigid rods.

Features of a robotic gearbox

In addition to the updated mechanics, the Lada Granta since 2015, starting with the “luxury” configuration, can be equipped with a robotic gearbox. The new transmission will be available in “standard” and “luxury” variations. According to the engineers, this device should completely eliminate the negative impact of the human factor, in which various errors are made.

Granta became the first car of the VAZ family to receive a robotic transmission option. The main manufacturer was the Japanese company Jatco, known in its field for the development and production of robotic, automatic transmissions and CVTs. They began installing a 4-speed gearbox, proven over the years, on the Grant. Not the most modern, but reliable.

Features of automatic transmission

The period of adaptation of the robot and the release of the first pilot versions of Granta on the machine lasted quite a long time. During this time, the symbiosis of domestic and Japanese developments was subjected to numerous calibrations. The modernization included about 30 modifications, and engineers from Austria were involved in the process. Only after this did the automatic transmission go into production.

Experts even took into account ergonomic issues: the hand fits comfortably on the gear shift lever. The selection of the appropriate modes is indicated on the selector; the specified mode is also duplicated on the BC screen. The only drawback revealed during operation is the unreliable fixation of the lever in the selected mode.

The gearbox operates in several modes. First and second gears are fixed. There is an overdrive button, thanks to which the automatic transmission will not switch to fourth speed. This mode is relevant when overtaking on the highway. Fixed first two gears are used for off-road driving or long uphill climbs. In winter, the transmission will not engage in higher 3rd and 4th gears until the oil warms up to 15 and 60 degrees, respectively.

Unlike the manual transmission of the Lada Grant, the automatic transmission does not have a flywheel. A drive disk is used instead.

Features of the automatic transmission scheme led to a decrease in the vehicle's ground clearance. The electronics that control the device are located behind, on the left side below the headlight. Many believe that such a location will lead to uncontrollability of the car in an accident. But engineers think differently. Automation will reliably control the work. Judging by the reviews, the system really functions flawlessly, and this is good news.

7_no_copyright

1 — gear selector levers;

2 — selector grid pin;

3 — selector grid;

4 — reverse locking mechanism;

5 - central three-dimensional plate.

However, the developers are not delaying documentation on the hydraulic drive and plan to launch it into series. As well as other improvements, by the way, which for various reasons were not implemented this time. For example, a multi-cone synchronizer in third gear and an equally interesting solution that makes the transition to the fourth and fifth stages clearer and more enjoyable. Not otherwise, appetite comes with eating. By the way, the food turns out delicious - I tried it myself. The main thing I would like to wish to the developers is not to be late with changing dishes. And to consumers - bon appetit!

Thank you for your help in preparing the material.

developers of the VAZ-2181 box

Mikhail Votinov, Vladimir Petunin, Sergei Ishchenko, Dmitry Gorev.

New gearbox "Grants" and "Kalina": traction to the cable

Transmission malfunctions on the Lada Granta and methods for eliminating them

First, we need to note the disadvantages of a manual transmission as a cheaper and more popular transmission option on these cars. The problems and their solutions are clearly presented in the table.

Fault type Solution
Noises during transmission operation
Gear teeth are worn.Replacing gears.
Severe bearing wear.Replacing bearings.
The oil level is below the permissible level.Add oil and repair leaks, if any.
Difficult to change gears
The clutch does not disengage completelyFix clutch problem.
The gear shift drive rod is damaged.Eliminate deformation of rods.
The fastenings of the mechanisms have been loosened.Tighten the fasteners.
Drive not adjusted.Adjust the drive.
The plastic drive elements are broken.Replacement of worn parts.
Transmissions turn off on their own
Wear of synchronizer teeth on the gear.Replace worn elements.
Damage and wear of engine mounts.Install new supports.
The gear shift mechanism drive is not adjusted.Adjust the drive.
Extraneous noise when shifting gears
The clutch does not disengage.Adjust the clutch and eliminate faults.
The ring blocking the synchronizer is worn.Replace the ring.
Oil leak
Wear of seals.Check all oil seals in the gearbox and replace worn ones.
The crankcase, gearbox cover, and drain plug are loose.Tighten loose elements and replace sealant if necessary.

Transmission malfunctions are often closely related to a faulty clutch. Characteristic signs may indicate many breakdowns. Detailed and more objective diagnostics are carried out only after dismantling the gearbox and completely disassembling it to identify problems.

It is not recommended for beginners and those who have no idea about the technical structure of this unit to carry out repairs. The fact is that the gearbox is a complex mechanism with many parts. With inept repairs, there is a high probability of getting even bigger problems, up to and including complete failure of the unit.

When contacting a car service center, you should take into account that not every mechanic has the appropriate qualifications, and repairing a Lada Granta gearbox with a cable drive can cost a lot of money.

For example, replacing oil seals involves a complete disassembly of the gearbox and is estimated on average at least 6,000 rubles. You can carry out repair work yourself. Yes, this will save money, but it will take up a lot of free time, and you will also need an assistant. Alternatively, in case of serious problems, motorists simply change the gearbox assembly. In some cases this is the only rational solution.

Automatic transmission malfunctions

To independently identify automatic transmission problems, you should drive the car. Characteristic signs of gearbox malfunction:

  • gears are not included;
  • strong jerks when moving;
  • flashing of the corresponding indicators;
  • transmission oil leak.

The presence of these problems indicates the need for urgent repair of the gearbox. And automatic transmission malfunctions also affect the robotic transmission. The robot is a kind of middle option between an automatic transmission and a manual transmission, and therefore it can be affected by breakdowns of both transmissions.

It is not possible to repair an automatic transmission at home. The design of the machine and the robot in particular is too complex and cannot be done independently. Moreover, not even all service centers do this. An experienced car owner will be able to eliminate the simplest faults, such as oil leaks and problems with spontaneous gear shifting. Moreover, in the latter case we are talking about cleaning contacts.

Most often, owners of a Lada Granta with an automatic transmission may encounter problems typical for this transmission.

Theory of gearbox operation

At the moment, all modern gearboxes are equipped with synchronizers, which are important elements of the gearbox. The essence of how synchronizers work is that they equalize the operation of the gearbox shafts.

Every driver, when switching from second to first gear, has encountered a situation where some kind of obstacle was felt. What prevents you from engaging first gear while driving. This is the synchronizer.

If you have a fairly new transmission, then when switching from an upshift to a downshift you will not find yourself in such a situation. Switching will be carried out without problems. This manifests itself as the components of the unit are used and worn out.

If you have problems with switching, come to Ankara for diagnostics and repair of transmissions of Mitsubishi, Toyota, Lexus, Land Rover, Jaguar, Infiniti, Mercedes, BMW, Audi and other brands.

Watch a video about the design and operating principle of the gearbox:

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In general, reliable, mechanical gearboxes produced at the Yaroslavl Motor Plant sometimes still fail. Repairing these units is quite labor-intensive and often requires significant financial costs. Troubles can be avoided by knowing the main causes of manual transmission breakdowns. Many malfunctions are directly related to the human factor. They can be completely avoided or eliminated when the first symptoms appear.

The car doesn't move forward

Usually in this case the reverse gear works properly. The cause may be damage to the discs or piston cups. Another common case is a stuck shift adjustment valve.

To troubleshoot problems, it is necessary to replace the friction discs, change the cuffs and clean the valve. If the reverse speed does not work either, it means that the culprit of the problem is the clutch responsible for the forward speed. Excessive wear will destroy the O-rings, spline mechanism and coupling. Repair in this case will consist of replacing damaged and worn elements.

The car does not move forward or backward

The absence of any movement can, in principle, be caused by the following malfunctions:

  • failure of the torque converter;
  • problems with the oil pump;
  • low oil level;
  • the strainer is clogged;
  • damage to friction discs;
  • rupture of the cuff and o-rings;
  • The forward valve is stuck.

In these cases, a complete replacement of worn parts will be required. Often the car can move forward, but when moving away there is a strong jolt. The car starts to slip and then stops. This problem indicates low oil level, failure of the torque converter or oil pump.

Other malfunctions and methods for eliminating them

Sometimes the breakdown is the absence of all speeds, except for the first. This indicates several problems: the valve is stuck, the teeth of the helical gear are damaged, or its cotter pin is sheared off. Troubleshooting work involves replacing worn parts, cleaning the valve, and checking the valve system.

A low oil level leads to other consequences in addition to the impossibility of movement. For example, when driving uphill for a long time, engaging a higher gear leads to slipping. The reduced mode is automatically switched on. Damage to the cuff and O-rings is also possible.

When switched to the “neutral” position, the car continues to move. This means that the drive cable is not adjusted. Or the drive lever or clutch is jammed, or the friction discs are damaged.

Very often, automatic transmissions encounter a problem called “kickdown,” i.e., when the gas pedal is sharply pressed, the gearbox does not shift to a lower gear. The problem most often occurs due to a pressure sensor, damaged foot switch, broken wiring, or poor adjustment of the throttle drive. Eliminated by replacing the sensor and adjusting the drive.

In fact, theoretically there can be a lot of problems. To the point where water gets into the gearbox housing and the oil foams, causing the car to start slipping. Subsequently, in advanced cases, this leads to complete failure of the gearbox.

An automatic transmission, like a robotic one, is much more complex than conventional mechanics. Service is not cheap, but repairs at home cannot be carried out efficiently.

It is important for car owners to learn how to correctly diagnose faults, and if they are minor, fix them themselves. If the problem is related to the need to remove and disassemble the automatic transmission, in such cases you cannot do without the help of qualified specialists. Repairs, depending on the complexity and malfunction, are estimated at an average of at least 2–3 thousand rubles, although it can reach up to 15–20, not counting the cost of spare parts.

Which boxes howl?

The noise problem appeared after Auto VAZ introduced a manual transmission of its own production with a cable drive. These boxes pleased us with clearer gear shifting, but disappointed us with a rather loud howl, especially in 2nd and 3rd gears. The transmission that has this problem is manual transmission 2181.

Box 2181 is an improved previous model 2180. Instead of rigid rods, it is driven by a cable drive. Thanks to the reduction in the bevel of the synchronizer teeth, the gears began to engage more clearly. In 1-2 gears, conventional synchronizers were replaced with multi-cone synchronizers. It would seem that everything should be for the better, but as an unpleasant bonus to the easy gear shifting, buyers received an unpleasant soundtrack.

The plant received a large number of complaints from car owners, so in 2014 the manufacturer modernized the transmission. As AvtoVAZ assures, the updated version has become 25% quieter, but it is still far from ideal.

Transmission repair

If repairing an automatic transmission in a garage is virtually a pointless undertaking, then our car enthusiasts often repair manual transmissions on their own. True, if you have free time, experience and knowledge in this area. To independently repair a manual transmission on a Lada Granta, you will need the following set of tools:

  • set of socket heads with ratchet;
  • screwdrivers, including large ones;
  • hammer;
  • impact screwdriver;
  • device for removing and installing retaining rings.

Before starting repairs and troubleshooting, it is necessary to remove the gearbox from the car and thoroughly wash the outside. You can use a high pressure washer for this. The repair process then looks like this:

  1. Unscrew the fastening bolts of the drive bracket and remove it.
  2. Loosen the five nuts from the rear transmission cover.
  3. Using a block of wood and a hammer, carefully knock the back cover off the studs.
  4. Unscrew the fifth gear mounting bolt.
  5. Engage fifth gear by engaging the coupling splines with the fork, so the gearbox shafts will be secured from turning.
  6. Using the speed shift rod, move the lever to the third or fourth speed position.
  7. Loosen the nuts of the primary shaft and then the secondary shaft. After this, they can be unscrewed, which will require a lot of force.
  8. The thrust plate is removed from the synchronizer.
  9. Using a large screwdriver, move the fifth gear driven gear and remove it.
  10. Remove the plug from the coupling.

Then you need to remove the fifth gear from the synchronizer, which must be secured with wire so that it does not fall apart later. Next we will remove the secondary shaft bushing. Then you need to remove the fifth speed drive gear of the input shaft. Remove the thrust washer from the secondary shaft. Let's move on.

  1. Loosen and unscrew the reverse speed solenoid from the crankcase.
  2. Unscrew the plugs and remove the retaining balls with the springs in them.
  3. Unscrew the plug and remove the clips with the reverse spring.
  4. The balls are removed from the holders using a magnet.
  5. Remove the clutch release bearing bushing.
  6. When disassembling and assembling the gearbox, it is recommended to replace the input shaft oil seal. If it leaks, you'll have to repeat the labor-intensive disassembly process again.
  7. Using an impact screwdriver, unscrew the screws of the plate holding the bearings and remove it.
  8. Remove the bearing retaining rings.

Let's move on to the next stage.

  1. Unscrew the 12 nuts and the mounting bolt holding the gearbox housing; under them there are spring washers.
  2. Disconnect the gearbox housing from the clutch housing by tapping with a hammer on a wooden drift, using it to rest against the grooves around the perimeter.
  3. Lift the gearbox housing and turn it clockwise, after which you can remove it.
  4. The magnet is removed from the crankcase.

Then you need to remove the reverse speed intermediate gear and dismantle the gear shift mechanism by unscrewing the three mounting bolts. (The gearshift mechanism should be removed if it needs to be replaced or the shift lever needs to be removed, otherwise removal is not necessary). This device fails during operation in rare cases, since the wear of parts is slow and even.

Next, you need to loosen the fastening bolt of the shift lever and, having removed it, move the rod and remove the lever. Remove the rubber boot of the rod and remove the latter from the engagement. (The rod hinge is a non-separable structure, therefore, if defects appear, it is replaced entirely).

Next, the disassembly process involves unscrewing the fastening bolts of the fork of the first two speeds to the rod.

  1. Raise the first and second gear rods, then turn them counterclockwise until the fork head disengages from the locking bracket. (If there is no need to remove the forks, it is recommended to leave them, otherwise there is a high probability of them being confused with each other).
  2. Unscrew the fastening bolt of the high gear shift fork.
  3. Turn the rod counterclockwise and lift it until it disengages from the support, then remove the fifth gear rod in the same way.
  4. Remove the reverse gear.
  5. Using light rocking, pull out the primary and then the secondary shaft.
  6. Remove the differential from the crankcase housing.
  7. Take out the dipstick to check the oil level.
  8. Remove the speed sensor and remove the reverse indicator switch.
  9. Using a special puller, press out the front bearing of the secondary shaft and remove the oil sump located under it.
  10. Press out the front bearing of the input shaft using a special puller (during assembly, you need to press new bearings onto the shafts using suitable mandrels).
  11. If the crankcase is to be replaced, the bearing, clutch fork and oil seal must be removed.

Next, you need to carefully inspect all parts for defects and damage. If such elements are identified, they must be replaced.

After replacing all parts, assembly is carried out in the reverse order, following certain rules.

  1. Before installing the primary and secondary shafts in place, their gears should be engaged and mounted in this form in the gearbox housing.
  2. Observe the correct position of the gearshift fork rods.
  3. All rubbing parts are generously lubricated with transmission oil.
  4. Clean and install the magnet into the mounting socket.
  5. A layer of sealant is applied to all connecting covers; only after this can the bolts and nuts of the fastenings be tightened.

If you look into it, you will understand that there is nothing supernatural in repairing a transmission. You just need to thoroughly study the technical device and understand the principle of operation of the gearbox. You will also need a special tool in the form of pullers. An assistant is also needed. It is better if he is experienced in such work. When there is no such opportunity, there is no need to take risks. You need to contact a specialized car service.

Assembly of the secondary shaft.

We assemble the secondary shaft in the reverse order of disassembly

In this case, you should pay attention to the following points. If you removed the coupling from the hub, then put it back together, to do this, use a screwdriver to insert a cracker so that it is between the hub and the coupling as shown in the photo

We orient the coupling so that the ball is opposite the groove in the coupling during assembly. Usually, when disassembling, it is recommended to mark the coupling with the hub so that it can be reassembled in the same way as it was before. If you haven’t marked it, then in general there won’t be anything wrong with it.

Please note that the reverse gear ring must be positioned upward. Retaining ring copper-plated, increased diameter

Do not confuse it with what is installed after the 3rd-4th gear hub.

When assembling, orient the synchronizers so that their protrusions are located opposite the coupling nuts:

The thinner washers are placed first, immediately on the 4th gear gear, then the bearing, then the thick washer.

Changing the oil in different types of Lada Granta gearboxes

This operation is performed for various reasons. Basically, the procedure is performed in accordance with the technical work regulations or after repairing the gearbox. At the same time, for any transmission it is important to follow some replacement rules.

  1. Before draining the gearbox oil, it must be thoroughly warmed up. The best replacement option is after a long trip.
  2. It is not recommended to lift the front of the car. It must be in a horizontal plane. This is the only way to drain as much oil as possible.

To change the lubricant yourself, you should prepare the following tools and devices:

  • socket wrench or socket 17;
  • some container for draining old oil;
  • a funnel with a pipe and a canister of suitable gear oil;
  • clean rags.

The replacement procedure is as follows.

  1. Wipe the drain hole with a rag and unscrew the drain plug, first placing an empty container under it (in this case, remove the dipstick to check the level. This way, the oil will begin to flow faster into the container under atmospheric pressure. Heated oil may be hot, you should be careful).
  2. Tighten the drain bolt after all the oil has flowed into the container.
  3. Insert the funnel pipe into the hole for the level check dipstick and slowly begin to fill in fresh oil (the volume will average from three to 3.5 liters).
  4. After filling approximately three liters, wait and insert the dipstick to control the level. Remove the dipstick, wipe it and insert it back, then pull it out and check the level.
  5. If the level is insufficient, add oil and measure again.

If the oil level is insufficient, the gearbox will begin to overheat, and an excess will lead to leakage due to volume expansion when heated. Having achieved the optimal level, insert the dipstick tightly and wipe the remaining oil around the filler hole.

Features of changing oil in automatic transmission

The process for the automatic transmission of the Lada Grant is identical in principle to changing the oil in a manual and robotic gearbox. The main difference is the volume of filling; for a machine it is about one liter. In addition, to replace you will need a 17 mm wrench or socket and a set of hex keys. Due to the fact that this type of gearbox is much more airtight, to drain the used lubricant you will need to unscrew not only the lower drain plug, but also the upper nut.

There is an opinion among car owners that before changing the oil, the machine must be flushed. Typically, kerosene or diesel fuel is used for these purposes. The essence of this method is simple. The fact is that there is a much smaller volume of oil inside; during operation, natural wear of parts occurs, and the lubricant quickly fills with various types of contaminants, including metal particles. When draining, it is impossible to wash out all these particles, and if you immediately fill in new oil, it will certainly receive some of these contaminants and will not be able to work 100%.

Automatic transmission flushing

Whether to rinse or not is a purely individual decision; the manufacturer does not regulate such work. The process is simple. First, the oil is drained, the drain plug is tightened and kerosene or diesel fuel is poured into the gearbox. Next, the engine starts and the speeds are switched. After a short period of operation, turn off the engine and drain the flushing fluid by unscrewing the drain plug. For better effect, the process is repeated several times.

At the final stage, you need to drain the liquid as much as possible and do not tighten the drain plug, allowing the machine to dry thoroughly for several hours. Then the drain bolt is screwed into the hole and fresh oil is poured in according to a similar principle with a manual transmission. The lubricant level should be checked periodically until it reaches the optimum level. For a control measurement, start the engine and let the gearbox run for a while without load. If, upon subsequent inspection, the level is at the recommended level, then the procedure was carried out correctly.

On an automatic transmission, you should check the oil level every five thousand kilometers.

Ideally, it would be good to check with a dipstick before the next trip. This way you can extend the service life of the automatic transmission on the Lada Granta. Changing the oil for both automatic and manual transmissions is not the most difficult procedure and can be done independently even by beginners with no experience. The main thing: follow the instructions.

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Photo report on manual transmission repair Vaz 2180

Noise insulation of gearbox

Car owners of Lada Granta, as well as other VAZ models, often complain about noise from the gearbox. Most often this is the fault of the manual transmission. There are many reasons, the problem may be hidden in design defects or wear. Another insignificant detail may be to blame for everything. Often the source of transmission noise is the clutch cable, which transmits vibration from the gear shift fork. To eliminate this problem, you will need to soundproof the gearbox, which involves installing a gasket between the cable and the gearbox.

The procedure is as follows.

  1. Remove the cable end from the fork.
  2. Unscrew the tip.
  3. Remove the boot and rubber stop from the cable.
  4. Instead of the insert, install a rubber washer with a diameter of 35 mm.
  5. Glue a piece of porous rubber to the plastic cable stop and additionally secure it with electrical tape for several turns. Reassemble everything in reverse order.

After everything is assembled, you need to place a rubber gasket 2-3 mm thick under the tip of the clutch cable and the gearshift fork. Then all that remains is to adjust the clutch pedal. After such a kind of sound insulation, extraneous sounds during operation virtually disappear.

But in winter, some vibrations may be observed. This is due to the fact that when the air temperature drops, the rubber gaskets harden and cannot function normally. There are no other soundproofing methods for the Lada Granta gearbox. There are some methods, but they are ineffective. You can soundproof the floor, but vibration will still make itself felt.

A cable-driven gearbox does not require sound insulation.

What gearboxes did it come with?

The Lada Granta passenger car has been in mass production since March 2011; this model replaced the popular Samara series.

Initially, the car was equipped only with a VAZ-2180 five-speed manual transmission; later, automatic and robotic gearboxes were installed on the car.

The cable manual gearbox Lada Granta with index 2181 has been produced since October 2012; it was later modernized, since car owners had many quality complaints about it.

Each type of transmission installed on a Togliatti-made car has its own characteristic differences and weaknesses, the so-called “diseases”.

Owner reviews

There are many opinions on the Internet about this or that Lada Granta checkpoint. Here are just a few of them.

Vasily, Samara: “Compared to the gearbox from Priora, the new cable gearbox does not hum, does not vibrate, gears are engaged easily and clearly. They say that Granta’s robot leaves much to be desired, but I’m more used to mechanics. At least you know what to expect from her and what problems may arise.”

Georgy, Tambov: “I got this miracle from AMT. In other words, a robot. In combination with the electronic gas pedal, I got a complete “vegetable” that accelerates poorly and thinks slowly. Sometimes it seems that the box thinks for about 6 seconds, and only then switches. Very inconvenient compared to mechanics. Although for lovers of leisurely trips it’s perfect. If you don’t want aggressive driving, a robot is an ideal option.”

Dmitry, city of Izhevsk: “Granta on the machine, who would you have thought that this would happen. What I want to say is that this is an ancient box from Nissan, although not the most advanced, but time-tested. Moderately thoughtful, which is not surprising, given the technology of the last century. For our automobile industry, this can be considered a breakthrough. If only they didn’t think of putting this ancient mammoth on Vesta.”

Lada Granta is one of the most inexpensive cars in Russia, and budgeting manifests itself in many ways. A slightly modernized gearbox from Priora, an old robot from the Japanese, not the most advanced automatic. However, one cannot blame a cheap car for the lack of high-quality equipment. For such a small amount this is more than enough. The developers are introducing something new, and this is good news.

JH3 gearbox

The “new” JH3 gearbox, which was installed on Lada Vesta until September 2016, is considered a maintenance-free gearbox with factory oil designed for the entire service life. On the one hand, one can only rejoice at this, on the other hand, nothing is eternal. Therefore, contrary to the manufacturer’s recommendations, we strongly recommend changing the oil every 70-100 thousand km.

Manufacturer's recommendation for the brand of oil used: Elf Tranself TRJ 75W80 or Elf Tranself NFJ 75W80. If you do not have the opportunity to fill in this particular oil, or for some reason you are not sure about this brand, then you can always use motor oils of other brands with similar characteristics

The most important thing is that the viscosity meets the technical specifications, as well as compliance with the requirements of the API GL-4 quality standard

The presence of GFL13 symbols in the car’s VIN code indicates a JH gearbox.

Manual transmission 2190

A manual transmission that started its journey on the assembly line together with the release of the Lada Granta. In terms of its ideology, it is almost a complete clone of previous manual gearboxes from Lada, however, there are differences from the old models and the assembled gearbox from the tens or nines will not fit. Firstly, Granta has its own gearbox housing, which some craftsmen call the “bell”. Secondly, the principle of placement of the speed sensor is different; in old gearboxes there was a shaft for the speed indicator, but since with the arrival of the Lada Grant on the assembly line, AvtoVAZ began to switch to a different car control bus and the speed sensor 2190 is already built into the gearbox and only an electrical contact comes out.

Otherwise, in terms of its internal parts, the mechanism is completely identical. Despite its excellent reliability, it has a number of fatal drawbacks: low vibration comfort, poor selectivity of gear selection, large lever strokes.

At the moment, it is not used on Lada cars; it has been replaced by manual transmission 2181, which will be discussed further.

What did you get?

The design of the gearbox was not only optimized and made more reliable, but also almost completely eliminated unpleasant vibrations on the lever and the car body. The backlash has become smaller and the shifts are clearer. It is worth noting that the use of a modernized gearbox on the Lada Granta and Lada Kalina 2 entailed an increase in the cost of these cars by an average of 5,000 rubles. By the way, the cable box is not installed on the Lada Priora; this car uses a 2180 manual transmission with rigid rods.

Let us remind you that according to reviews, the first copies of the modified gearbox were not entirely successful. The owners noticed a decrease in vibrations, but encountered a new problem: the box began to howl. After this, AvtoVAZ made changes to the design, but the sediment remained...

One of the popular domestic cars is the Lada Kalina. The second generation became available in 2013. The car has improved its technical qualities. Also, the exterior has improved.

The car may have an engine with a volume of 1.6 liters and a power of 106 horsepower. Lada Kalina VAZ 1118 is equipped with electric power steering. Also, the 2nd generation may have a cable gearbox. Its peculiarity is that it minimizes the occurrence of vibrations that occur on the body.

Model design

When choosing between several cars, they often look first at the design and interior - the car should be pleasing to the eye. It’s impossible to say which is better: the Granta liftback or the Priora station wagon – “there’s no match for the taste and color of a friend.” It will be enough to give an objective overview of the design concept of these models.

Serial production of the Lada Priora (VAZ-2170) began in 2007. The car became a continuation of the “ten” family, the body underwent minor changes, but someone still recognized the “ten”. In 2013, it was restyled, DRLs were added to the “droplet headlights”, the rear lights and bumpers were changed, slightly “modernizing” the body. Priora looks rather modest, but is quite consistent with its class of budget cars.

Granta is the first car with smoother design features produced by AvtoVAZ. The model was developed on the basis of the Lada Kalina and received the number VAZ-2190 (sedan body). In 2014, serial production of the Granta liftback began (received the number VAZ-2191). In 2018, there was a global restyling of the entire Grant line and their design underwent significant changes, now the car began to look more aggressive and modern.

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30 April 2015 LadaOnline 315 502

The first thing a new car owner has to deal with is finding out what technical fluids are in the car and how soon they should be replaced. The engine is considered the main unit, so most often they start with motor oil.

Let us remind you that AvtoVAZ installs the same type of power units on its models, so the recommendations on “what oil to fill in the engine” will be the same for all modern Lada cars (Granta, Priora, Kalina, Largus, Niva, Vesta or XRAY).

AvtoVAZ installs the following engines on Lada cars:

Engine modelVolume, lPower, hpNumber of valves, pcsEngine oil volume, lInstalled on cars
VAZ-21114 or VAZ-11183Granta and Kalina
VAZ-21116/11186/11189Granta, Kalina 2 and Priora, Largus
VAZ-21126 3.2 (2.9)* Manual 4.4 (4.1)* AMTPriora, Kalina, Granta and Kalina 2
VAZ-21127Priora, Kalina 2, Granta
VAZ-21126-77Granta Sport
VAZ-21128Priora
VAZ 11194Kalina
VAZ 21129 3,2 (2,9)* (1)4,4 (4,1)* (2)Vesta, Lada XRAY
VAZ 21179 3,2 (2,9)* (1)4,15 (3,85)* (2)
VAZ 21214Niva 4x4

None We select Niva 4x4 engine oil in a separate article.

What motor oils are recommended by AvtoVAZ? If you open the Operating Manual for the vehicle and its modifications, not the latest edition, you can find table No. 2 “Motor oils”. Comparing them for different Lada cars, you can understand that AvtoVAZ recommends the same motor oils for Lada Granta/Kalina/Priora engines.

For Lada Vesta, AvtoVAZ recommends using Rosneft brand motor oil, API class SL, SM or SN. What brand of oil does the Lada come from the factory?

  • Engine 1.6: Rosneft ROSNEFT MAGNUM MAXTEC 5W-30 STO 44918199-091-2017 semi-synthetics.
  • Engine 1.8: until 05.2018 LUKOIL GENESIS SAE 5W-40 STO 79345251-040-2010 synthetics, from 05.2018 ROSNEFT MAGNUM MAXTEC 5W-40 STO 44918199-091-2017 semi-synthetics.

None You can determine the viscosity of engine oil using the following table:

Minimum engine cold start temperature, CViscosity grade according to SAE J 300Maximum ambient temperature
Below -350W-30
Below -350W-40
5W-30
5W-40
10W-30
10W-40
15W-40
20W-40

How to determine the composition of motor oil? To answer this question, we conducted surveys among owners of Lada Grant, Lada Kalina and Lada Priora, asking them to answer the question “What oil composition do you use in your car?” as a result we received approximately the same results:

What brand of oil do you use? The next polls and very similar results:

The survey below will help you finally decide on the choice of engine oil. Take part in our survey and discussions. Let us remind you that the website contains instructions for changing engine oil, as well as recommendations on which engine oil is best to choose based on viscosity and composition.

By the way, the Lada Vesta is also equipped with an HR16 engine; read recommendations on choosing lubricants for it here. For Lada Largus with Renault K4M or K7M engine here.

Keywords: Lada Priora engine | Lada Kalina engine | Lada Granta engine | lubrication system for Lada Priora | lubrication system for Lada Kalina | lubrication system for Lada Granta | Lada Vesta engine | lubrication system for Lada Vesta | Lada Largus engine | 4x4 engine | lada xray engine | lubrication system for Lada Largus | 4x4 lubrication system | Lada Xray lubrication system | universal article12

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From the factory, the engine of the Lada Granta is filled with Rosneft semi-synthetic oil 5W-30. There is no such oil on the market, since it contains special additives that serve for better running-in of the new engine.

Lada Granta with automatic transmission: automatic is not a luxury

AvtoVAZ has started mass production of the new Lada Granta with an automatic transmission. The Kolesa.Ru portal lays out everything that is known about the first Russian, but not the first domestic car with an automatic transmission, studies the price list and tries in vain to select competitors for the “automated” Granta from among foreign models.

First of all, let us praise our native AvtoVAZ for the fact that the launch of the Lada Grant with automatic transmission to the market is proceeding at a faster pace. Back in June, it was reported that the car would begin production no earlier than August, but already in early July, the first batch of two hundred cars was sent to VAZ dealers (mainly in the regions), and on July 19, the start of mass production of the model was announced. Previously, with the release of new products, the situation with VAZ was exactly the opposite.

Lada Granta received a Japanese 4-speed automatic transmission manufactured by Jatco, which is jointly owned by Nissan (75% of shares), Mitsubishi (15%) and Suzuki (10%). The box is a modernized version of the unit that was installed back in 1989 on the popular Nissan Sunny model. The new version of the transmission, as the Japanese say, is lighter, more compact and more efficient than the previous version of the unit. At the same time, the main advantages of the box remain simplicity of design and reliability.

Paired with the Japanese automatic transmission will be a VAZ 1.6-liter 16-valve engine from the Lada Priora with a capacity of 98 hp. With. Whereas in the manual version the Grant is equipped with an 87-horsepower eight-valve engine. The first Lada Granta models with automatic transmission will be produced in the “Norma+” configuration and equipped with ABS, air conditioning, and a passenger airbag. In this version, the “automated” Grant will cost 373,300 rubles. Granta “Norma” with “mechanics”, let us remind you, costs from 291,000 to 299,000 rubles and has neither a passenger airbag nor air conditioning.

The surcharge for an “automatic”, in the end, taking into account all those “bells and whistles” that are installed with it, is not so great. Moreover, foreign competitors Grants in versions with automatic transmission are much more expensive. Even the “Chinese” Chery IndiS with a “robot” is estimated at at least 439,900 rubles, a Renault Logan with an “automatic” is cheaper than 443,500 rubles. you can’t buy, but the “foreigner” with automatic transmission that is closest in price to the Granta, ZAZ Chance Sedan, costs 420,000 rubles.

Many of our colleagues hastened to dub VAZ’s new product the first domestic car with an automatic transmission. This is not entirely true. Or rather, it’s not like that at all. Lada Granta is the first modern Russian car with automatic transmission. In Soviet times, cars with automatic transmissions were allowed in. And serially.

The pioneer was the Volga GAZ-21 - the first copies of the car (mass production started in April 1957) were already equipped with an automatic transmission as standard. Moreover, it was original, GAZ, and not borrowed from abroad. Later, however, the “automatic” had to be abandoned, since the need for qualified service of the gearbox limited the distribution of the car in the provinces. However, upon request, automatic transmissions were installed on the “twenty-first Volgas” until 1962. In total, about 700 cars with automatic transmission were produced.

In January 1959, the no less famous Chaika (GAZ-13) , the engine of which (5.5-liter V8) was also coupled with an automatic transmission. Moreover, there was no traditional selector inside the car: the box was controlled by keys on the front panel.

However, in fairness, we note that the mentioned cars never really became widespread - even when adjusted for the low rates of motorization in the USSR.

Another thing is Lada Granta. By the end of this year, AvtoVAZ plans to produce 10,000 copies of the model with automatic transmission. Next year – another 70 thousand. In addition, the start of production of the updated Lada Kalina with an automatic transmission is planned for 2013. How many Kalinas with automatic transmission will be produced has not yet been specified, however, according to some reports, Jatco plans to supply about 80,000 boxes per year to Russia.

VAZ also does not name the exact dates for the start of sales of the new Lada Granta with an automatic transmission: it is only known that the car will begin to be sold during the third quarter of 2012.

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