VAZ-2110 (injector): the cooling fan does not turn on. possible causes of the malfunction

An engine operating at extreme temperatures will require expensive repairs or replacement. How to organize uninterrupted engine cooling? Why does the VAZ 2110 injector cooling fan not work?

A 10-minute reading will provide answers to these and many other questions. The article is based on the generalized experience of professional mechanics and auto electricians. Clear, proven tips will help you find and troubleshoot problems and avoid unwanted breakdowns.

VAZ 2110 engine operating temperature

Normal operating temperature of internal combustion engine: +90. +95, if above +97 then the internal combustion engine will be slightly dulled, but this t is also considered normal, up to +110 is also normal, but the radiator fan should already turn on. If t is below +90, this is not overheating. We look at the thermoelement for grinding into the thermostat cover (so that when closed it does not etch into a large circle) and the serviceability of the thermoelement itself by boiling it in the thermostat cover. If the lower pipe is cold, this is not a fact that it does not poison the large circle.

I purchased a 6-hole thermostat assembled, sealed, with an Quality Control Department stamp, t 85, PRAMO, for 505 rubles. I also had a thermocouple from a viburnum, also at t 85, lying around for a long time. ___________________________________________

Kalinovsky thermoelement: ___________________________________________________

Thermostat with thermocouple: ___________________________________________________

I boiled both thermoelements in this one housing of the new thermostat, the result:

1. Thermoelement from viburnum: opened slightly at +92 (began to let water through at atmospheric pressure) at 96 opened slightly by 5 mm +100 opened by 8-9 mm diluted the water to +83 - almost instantaneous slamming.

2. Stock thermocouple Pramo: opened slightly at exactly +85 and went at atm. pressure +86 hole mm 2-3 +88 hole approximately mm 5 diluted the water to +83 - it slows down for about a minute.

Now do you understand why your operating temperature in winter is +88 and below?

There was a thermoelement left from the new PRAMO thermostat, which turned out to be a little longer (rod) and did not fit tightly into the cover of the Priora thermostat. The cover of the Priorov thermostat was drilled out a little and the thermoelement sat tightly, now it is not blown through. (before these actions I thought about it, I didn’t sit down by two mm)

via FTP video 5:52, 24.4 MB _______________________________________________________________

And now the sea trials of the Kalina thermoelement with the Pramo cover:

In weather -15, VideoAdded t coolant on the move, t air in the driver's compartment, t air flow at the carrier's feet (16.6 MB)

Via FTP, 16.6 MB ________________________________________________________________

Warming up from a cold start, with on. stove, -16 on the street, -15 coolant, -15 in the cabin, at XX, 24 minutes: here is the video, 63.4 MB:

Warming up from a cold start, with off. stove, -19 on the street, -18 coolant, -17 in the cabin, at XX, 23 minutes: here is the video, 30.4 MB:

The fan does not turn on

There may be several reasons for this:

1. Fuse. In the mounting block, fuse F7, rated 20 amperes, may be faulty - it is responsible for powering the electric fan and sound signal circuits;
2. Thermostat. The liquid circulates only in a small circle, the radiator and sensor do not heat up, and accordingly, the fan does not turn on. You can check by simply probing the pipes; those connecting to the radiator should begin to warm up after opening the thermostat;
3. Sensor. For a VAZ 2110 with a carburetor, the contacts are closed for testing; if the device malfunctions, the electric fan will turn on. The connector of the injection motor must be disconnected; with the remaining elements working, the ECU will detect a break in the circuit and issue a constant alarm signal to the relay, which will forcibly turn on the electric motor for cooling;
4. Cooling system fan relay for VAZ 2110 injection engines. The sensor is turned off and the power contacts on the relay located in the additional fuse box are closed. If everything works, then we check the control winding: on one contact there is always a positive from the main relay, connecting the second to the body, we try to hear the operation click. But it’s better to simply replace the relay for testing, temporarily, with a known good one;
5. Electric motor. During testing, the connector is disconnected; to force the impeller to turn on, voltage is supplied directly from the battery.

If all the elements are working properly, then you need to look for a break in the wires, “ringing” them one by one. Poor contact of the relay and sensor connection wire terminals with the car body is also possible. The worst case scenario would be an ECU failure, in which case the signal from “leg” 46 usually “floats” and does not reach the values ​​of +12 volts (off) and 0 (on).

How to check the fan circuit

1. We start the test with the simplest thing - determining the condition of the fuse. We are looking for it in the mounting block, which is located under the hood. Its marking is F7.

2. We take it out, and visually, or using a multimeter, check for functionality. If it burns out, replace it with a new one (20 A). If everything is fine with him, we put him in his place and move on.

3. In order not to waste time, it is better to immediately determine the functionality of the fan motor. To do this, disconnect the wires from it and connect it directly to the battery, observing the polarity. If the fan is “alive”, we continue to look for the cause.

4. Move on to the fan relay. It is located in an additional mounting block in the car interior to the left of the front passenger's feet.

5. There are three relays there. Ours is on the far left.

It is unlikely that you will be able to check it yourself; it is better to take another one somewhere and put it in the place of the person being checked. We heat the motor to maximum temperature and observe the behavior of the fan. If there is no result, move on.

Unscrew and inspect the cap of the expansion tank. At the slightest suspicion of leakage, throw it away and install a new one.

Next we move on to the sensor itself. We start the engine, heat it to a temperature of more than 100 0 C, and disconnect the connectors from the sensor. The ECU that controls the operation of the sensor should automatically send a signal to the relay to force the fan to turn on. If the fan turns on, the problem is most likely in the sensor. We replace the sensor with a new one and check its operation.

If nothing works here, you need to look for an open circuit in the electrical circuit. To do this, it is better to contact specialists.

Source

Thermostat

Many modern cars are equipped with thermostats with sensors. This allows you to more efficiently manage the cooling system. But such management has its drawbacks. In particular, when the system breaks down, various “miracles” can begin. If the sensor installed on the thermostat fails, the fan will run constantly. The reason for this is the following. The control unit, not receiving signals about the operation of the thermostat, goes into emergency mode. At the same time, just in case, the fan turns on; in case of such an error, it will work constantly.

Checking the sensor is quite simple. Like any temperature sensor, in normal condition, it should show infinite resistance when the engine is cold, in all other cases it should show from 100 to 500 ohms. If the check shows different readings, it is better to replace the sensor. Fortunately, it is quite inexpensive.

Air temperature sensor

. Some modern cars are equipped with additional oncoming flow temperature sensors. That is, they react to the ambient temperature. If the indicator specified in them is exceeded, they give a command to turn on the fan. This is done to increase the cooling efficiency of the motor.

This scheme is often found on foreign cars that have sandwich radiators consisting of 3 layers. In this case, the fan will work almost all summer even on a cold motor. It is not recommended to disconnect the sensor; this may lead to engine overheating.

Heater motor

7.11.1. Design Features

Diagram of the automatic heater control system

3

Diagram of the automatic heater control systemAddresses of the output plugs of the heater control system controller

The controller receives information from:

– sensor 6

air temperature in the cabin (a small fan is built into the sensor);

– micromotor gear shaft position sensor 9

heater damper drive, i.e. information about the position of the heater damper.

Based on the information received and the set air temperature, the controller controls the position of the heater damper, sending appropriate signals to the damper drive micromotor.

If the fan operating mode switch handle is in position A, then the controller also controls the fan speed depending on the difference in the air temperature in the cabin and the temperature set point.

A valve is used to quickly warm up the air in the cabin. 8

recirculation with switch
7
. When the valve is turned on, the flow of outside air into the cabin is blocked and only cabin air circulates through the heater.

The vehicle is equipped with a heater fan electric motor of type 45.3730, excited by permanent magnets.

Additional resistor 2

serves to select the fan operating mode. It has two coils with a resistance of 0.23 and 0.82 Ohms. When you turn the heater fan switch knob on the heater control panel, you can turn on either both spirals (1st speed), or a spiral with a resistance of 0.23 Ohm (2nd speed), or turn on the engine directly without a resistor (3rd speed). I speed).

It is recommended to replace a faulty electric motor with a new one. The only possible repair is cleaning the collector.

Addresses of the heater control system controller output plugs

Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

The following symptoms may inform the car owner about the failure of the DVT:

1. The quality of the exhaust gases is too low, which is associated with a violation of the combustible mixture in the cylinders.
2. Fuel consumption has increased, and noticeably.
3. Problems have arisen in the operation of the power unit. The dynamics of the vehicle may decrease, and the engine power as a whole will also deteriorate.
4. Combinations of errors may appear on the dashboard, and the ECU may also send a signal to the dashboard about the need to check the performance of the motor.
5. The power unit has become more difficult to start.

When they detect the first signs of problems, many motorists immediately drive their car into a garage or service station to change the controller. In practice, symptoms of DTOZ malfunctions are often associated with damage to the electrical circuit and poor contact of the device with the vehicle’s on-board network. Therefore, if you encounter a similar problem, we first recommend checking the condition of the wiring.

Photo gallery “Diagnostics of DTOZH”

1. DTOZH connected to a multimeter in a container with antifreeze

2. Dependence of temperature (left), resistance (right)

Quick Repair Methods

If the thermostat has died for a long time on a long journey, then first try knocking on its body. Sometimes, after exposure, the valve opens, but expect it to jam again soon. The best option is to drain the fluid and try to break through the thermostat to turn on the big circle. And if suddenly there is a new one or a working one in the glove compartment, then install it.

It’s more difficult with a pump on the road; it will be easier to add water as needed. But this is only if the leak is not very large. Having reached the place where repairs can be carried out, it needs to be replaced. On sevens this is done quite quickly, you just need to drain the liquid, loosen the fan belt and remove the old pump. And on nines you will have to remove the casing that covers the timing block, loosen the belt, and only then use a 10mm wrench to unscrew the three bolts securing the pump.

But with a fan everything is simpler. If there is a breakdown in the sensor, then the easiest option is to short-circuit its contacts. In this case, the fan will work constantly, so after stopping the engine, be sure to turn it off, as the battery will run out. If the problem is in the wiring, then the best way to get out of this situation is to connect a fan to the battery. But if the electric motor winding burns out, then only a complete replacement will help.

• Description of the VAZ 2107 cooling system
• Typical failures in the cooling system in 2017

The engine cooling system is one of the important parts of the car. It not only cools the engine, but also heats the car interior in winter. And to carry out maintenance and repair, you simply need to know the composition of the system and the general principle of its operation.

The first copies of VAZ 2110 cars were practically a copy of the nines. The only difference is in the body, but the engine and gearbox are similar. But carburetors were replaced by an injection system, and a lot has changed in the car, including the cooling system. Constant modernization makes itself felt, the car becomes more reliable, but more difficult to maintain. Of course, increasing engine power entails a lot of modifications. Changes occur in the braking system, lubrication and cooling systems. But the operating principle remains virtually unchanged.

Adjusting the automatic control system

To check the functionality of the device, you should take a mercury thermometer and place it near the temperature sensor. After this, you need to activate the stove controller and set the fan control knob to position “A”. The automatic control system should be carefully adjusted only if after 15–20 minutes the temperature is more than two degrees below the data from the sensor.

In order for the self-propelled gun to work better, you will have to pull it out and then turn the knob located on the left side of the controller several times. You can increase the temperature by turning the knob clockwise, and decrease it by turning it counterclockwise.

Checking at home

Sometimes the electric motor turns on too late, when the antifreeze temperature is already high. This may be caused by a malfunction of the valve in the radiator cap or abnormal parameters of the switch on sensor. You can check the device’s response temperature at home using a multimeter and thermometer.

After disconnecting the electrical connector, the sensor is unscrewed with a key. To avoid burns, remove the device only from a cold engine, after draining the antifreeze. When reinstalling, it is advisable to use a new sealing copper washer and not apply too much force when tightening.

The switching temperature is engraved on the end; it can be from 92 to 95 degrees. To check, you need to connect the multimeter in resistance measurement mode and immerse the threaded part in a container of water.

While heating the water and monitoring the readings of the multimeter, we use a thermometer to record the moment it turns on, and when it cools down, the temperature it turns off. Standardly, these are 92 and 87 degrees; with significant deviations, late operation is especially critical, the device requires replacement.

To improve cooling, it is possible to install a double fan from Niva. There are two modifications for placement: after the radiator or in front of it.

Nivovsky injection radiator 21214-1300024-43 (placed in front of the radiator)

On the VAZ 2110, any of the options can be installed with minimal modifications to the fasteners on site. When electric motors are connected in parallel, the current consumption increases to 40 amperes, which requires replacement of the wiring.

Nivovsky suction radiator (placed after the radiator)

Monitor the engine temperature. If you notice overheating too late, then in addition to boiling of the antifreeze and a forced stop, more serious consequences are possible: deformation of the cylinder head, jamming of the camshaft. If there are defects in the operation of the cooling system fan of the VAZ 2110, the faults can be diagnosed independently by checking the thermostat, electric motor, relay, and switch sensor.

How to replace a temperature sensor

Before starting work, you need to partially drain the coolant from the cylinder block.

1. Remove the wire.

2. Using a 21 wrench, unscrew the temperature sensor.

3. Take it off.

4. Install the new one in reverse order.

Replacing the cooling fan and radiator on VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

The engine cooling fan plays a very important role, since it cools the radiator, which in turn circulates coolant through the system and all of this together is a cooling system, but the fan sometimes fails, and the radiator sometimes gets punctured by pebbles, which causes it to start Coolant leaks and it needs to be replaced.

We recommend: Replacing Lada Priora headlights (VAZ Priora)

Note! To replace both of these units, you will need to stock up on: Wrenches, as well as a socket wrench, in addition, you will need a small container (it should be wide) into which you will drain the coolant from the radiator of the cooling system, and you will also need a screwdriver!

Where are the radiator and cooling fan located? Both of these units are located in the front of the car, you won’t be able to see them so easily, because they are large and therefore you can only see parts of them, for example, to see the fan you will only need to look under the TV of the car (The TV is its front part on which the headlights, bumper and other parts are located, the wings no longer belong to it) and you will see a fan thanks to which the car’s engine is cooled (For clarity, the fan is indicated by a red arrow, and the air filter housing has already been removed since it is very in the way review), and in order to see the radiator itself, you can also look under the same TV or look through the radiator grill (The radiator will be visible through it).

When do you need to change the radiator and cooling fan? The radiator, as mentioned earlier, needs to be changed when a hole or holes appear on it, which may appear due to a pebble getting into it (this happens through the radiator grille) or due to strong pressure in the cooling system, which may appear due to a valve malfunction in the cap of the expansion tank or in the radiator cap, if these valves or only one valve fails, the pressure in the system increases, and therefore the increased pressure in the expansion tank (Tank cap valve has failed) will ultimately lead to the fact that the tank is in in the literal sense of the word, it will explode, as for the radiator relief valve, it is still located on the same cap (On the radiator cap we mean) and when this valve fails, the pressure in the radiator begins to increase, and therefore it begins to leak from all the cracks of the radiator The fluid and radiator will eventually (if you drive at high pressure for a very long time) become unusable.

Note! To prevent this from happening, change the radiator cap and the expansion tank cap once every year or two, buy these things after making sure that the valve works, and then in the future you will have fewer problems with this! (For information on how to check the functionality of the expansion tank cap valve, see the video below and always remember this thing: the valve must keep the pressure within 1.1 - 1.5 kgf/cm2 and then the cap can be said to be working properly)

A couple more words about the radiator, in fact, you can check whether there are holes in it or not, they are just usually small and it can be quite difficult to notice them, so in order to find them they use a very cunning method, which is as follows: Take the radiator and all the pipes that go from it and on which the hoses are put on are closed with plugs (you can close them with anything, the most important thing is to make the radiator sealed so that no water gets into it) and then lowered into water (in the bath is easiest), after Once the radiator is in the water, figure out how you can pump air into it, after you come up with an idea, supply air to the radiator at a pressure of 2 kgf/cm2 (You can pump this pressure into the radiator with a compressor, or you can try with a regular pump) and after that you will immediately you will see whether there are holes in the radiator or not (If there are, then air bubbles will come out from there), for clarity, how to check the radiator for serviceability, look at the video clip located just below:

Note! If the holes are small, then buying a new radiator does not make any sense, because small holes can be closed, for example, using a special substance that is sold in a car shop and which will need to be moved with coolant, this substance will clog into the hole and thereby prevent the penetration of liquid through it, also a not very large hole in the radiator can be removed by soldering or welding, but we do not recommend that you remove large holes, so in this case it is better to go to an auto store and buy a new radiator!

Preparing for replacement

If you have at least some skills in working with wrenches and screwdrivers, replacing the stove motor will be a feasible repair for you.

To get to the electric motor of the VAZ 2110 heater, you first need to open the hood and remove the “-” battery terminal.

Now, in fact, we are removing the motor itself, which does not work as we need, or has completely failed:

1. The windshield wipers need to be removed. To do this, pry off and remove the rubber caps, take a 10mm wrench, unscrew the nuts, disconnect the brushes;
2. We pry up the decorative plugs (a slotted screwdriver is useful here), unscrew the screws that secure the frill, then a couple more nuts on the edges (with a 10mm socket wrench), remove the frill;
3. Having removed the rubber seal, unscrew the screws with which the engine compartment shield is attached;
4. Now, remove the hose that supplies washer fluid to the injectors;
5. The most difficult task is getting to the right side of the engine compartment to remove it. It has two nuts at the bottom (also for a 10mm socket wrench). It would seem easy to unscrew, but it’s just painfully inconvenient. Although there is a positive point here - these nuts do not have to be completely unscrewed - the shield can be pulled out after a few turns;
6. Before disconnecting this shield, remove the clamps from the hose going to the vacuum brake booster;
7. Unscrew the screws (4 pieces) from the cabin filter cover and remove it;
8. The heater motor has already appeared. It is necessary to disconnect the heater motor block, as well as the resistor block;
9. Now you can pull out the left side of the stove, and with it the fan motor;
10. It became possible to replace the heater fan;
11. Reassembly is carried out in the same order, only exactly the opposite.

Be prepared for the fact that for the first time replacing the heater motor on a VAZ 2110 (repair) will take you a couple of hours.

How is the fan connected?

Depending on the type of engine, the operation of the fan is controlled by different means. If the engine has a carburetor, then the operation of the device is controlled by a TM-108 thermobimetallic sensor located on the radiator body (if you look in the direction of travel, it is on the left side). In many VAZ cars, the sensor responds to the maximum antifreeze temperature (107 °C). With this value, the sensor immediately sends a control signal to the fan relay, and it begins its operation. But what should you do if the cooling fan on a VAZ-2110 with an injector does not turn on?

On VAZ-2110 vehicles equipped with injection power units, the operation of the fan is controlled by a controller, but a sensor is also present. It is located near the thermostat. When the antifreeze reaches its maximum temperature, the sensor sends a signal to the computer, which turns on the fan via a pulse on its relay.

Connection schemes

In VAZ 2110 injection and carburetor engines, the TM-108 bimetallic temperature sensor is used in different ways to control turning the fan motor on and off.

For carburetor engines it is located on the radiator on the left in the direction of travel. When the threaded part located directly in the coolant is heated, the bimetallic plate bends and closes the contacts. The voltage from the battery is supplied through a fuse to one contact of the electric motor, the second, when the sensor is triggered, is connected to the housing, setting the impeller in motion.

For VAZ 2110 and TM-108 injectors, it is located near the thermostat, the signal is sent to the electronic control unit (ECU). The control signal from the ECU is sent to the cooling system fan relay, which, similar to the sensor of a carburetor engine, controls the electric motor.

All engines have another device in the cylinder block, the signal of which is used to indicate the coolant temperature on the panel in the cabin.

Why does the fan on the VAZ not work?

• - flat screwdriver;
• - side cutters or pliers;
• — wire with a cross-section of at least 0.75 sq. mm in insulation;
• - insulating tape;

Take your car's electrical diagram and find the components responsible for controlling the electric fan. First of all, check the integrity of the electrical fuse

Please note that older cars did not use an electric fan; instead, an impeller was installed on the pump, which rotated constantly. This type of radiator airflow is good because it provides better cooling in hot weather.

But in cold weather, the engine takes longer to reach operating temperature, so you have to cover the radiator with cardboard or a piece of plastic in the winter.

Check the functionality of the temperature sensor installed in the radiator housing. An electric fan may not turn on due to a failure of the sensor, which is a simple switch whose contacts close at a certain temperature. After a little reflection, we can come to the conclusion that by closing the contacts of this sensor, we will force the electric fan to turn on. Looking at the simplest control circuit that is used on VAZ cars, you can see that the sensor is installed in the break of the fan power wire.

Check the functionality of the electromagnetic relay if the fan switching circuit is relay. This can be done by closing the relay contacts connected to the sensor. There should be a faint click, indicating that the coil is intact. But do not forget that voltage should appear at the positive terminal of the fan. If it is not there, then it is quite possible that the relay contacts are damaged. When opening and closing, a small spark is formed, which can even melt the contacts. Therefore, after checking the coil, be sure to short-circuit the power wires. Just do not short the positive wire to ground.

Take a wire with a cross-section of at least 0.75 square meters. mm to connect an electric fan to the battery terminals. This decision will be correct if the breakdown cannot be quickly diagnosed. As a rule, diagnostic complications occur when the electrical wiring is broken. For example, on cars of the eighth family, the temperature sensor is not connected to ground at the closest point, but the wire is stretched under the radiator and goes to the fuse box. In order not to boil in a traffic jam, the best solution is to open the plug connection and connect the fan to the battery. Just do not reverse the polarity, otherwise the engine will rotate in the opposite direction and the radiator will not cool down as a result.

An electric fan motor is a DC machine that is polarity sensitive. When connected to a battery, the motor will rotate incorrectly in the opposite direction.

checking the cooling system on a VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109

Fan operation temperature VAZ 2112

Probably, many have noticed that the fan switching temperature on the latest generation VAZ 2110 -2112 engines (100-105 C) is too high compared to the normal operating temperature of the engine (85-90 C).

First of all, this introduction is connected with the manufacturer’s struggle for cleaner exhaust from the pipe of your car (requirements of modern Euro 3 standards and higher). At this temperature, more complete combustion of the fuel and its components occurs.

But it should be noted that, as always, a given positive side for one aspect brings something negative for another. So, with a slight, but still overheating of the engine and head, irreversible physicochemical processes occur in the metal, which ultimately affects the overall final operation of the engine hours of the power unit. Apart from the fact that in the event of a failure of the electrical components that affect the fan’s activation, the time to notice this at an elevated standard switching temperature of 105 C to overheating of 125 C will be significantly less than from normal operating temperature to overheating. So it depends on people... let’s say it turns on at different temperatures... it’s 100 or 110 degrees) I don’t deny that the instrument panel itself may be lying) but I think it’s better to play it safe and make a chip tuning to turn on the fan, let’s say 98 degrees or stupidly remove the button to the fan)

PROBLEM SOLVED) I SCREWED THE ADDITIONAL MOUNT FROM THE GENERATOR TO THE BODY) AND EVERYTHING FOUND INTO PLACE) THERE IS NO LONGER VOLTAGE DROPS))) AND ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL, THE FAN ACTIVITY INSTRUMENT BEGAN TO SHOW 98 AS IT SHOULD BE)

Many motorists, when operating the 16-valve VAZ-2112 engine, encountered the fact that the engine simply boiled. This is due to the engine overheating. What is the operating (normal) engine temperature? In this article, we will consider what temperature should be in the power unit and its systems, as well as the reasons and methods for solving an increase in this indicator.

Common faults

Since the fan is spinning, it needs to be forced to stop and turn on only when there is a real need for it.

There are several main reasons why cooling system fans may turn on when the engine is cold. This is related to:

• switch on sensor;
• coolant;
• mass;
• thermostat;
• temperature sensor;
• contacts;
• air conditioning.

Each of the points may be the reason why the fan turns on and starts rotating when the engine is cold.

Power sensor

One of the most common reasons why a fan runs on a cold engine is a short circuit in the controller, that is, the sensor.

Quite often it happens that the fan starts when the ignition is turned on. If this occurs at the same time, the contacts on the controller have probably shorted. As a result, the airflow works constantly.

Although the breakdown is the most common, it is also the most harmless and safe. The worst consequence of this phenomenon is considered to be a complete discharge of the battery. This will happen if you leave the ignition on for a while.

To check whether the short is at fault or not, you will need to use a multimeter to check the resistance by applying probes to the terminals. When the sensor is working, the multimeter shows infinite resistance, that is, it displays the corresponding value on the display.

If you see that the resistance is less, then the contacts are probably closed. The controller will need to be replaced. Such a malfunction is displayed as a separate code during computer diagnostics.

Coolant

Sometimes there is no need to look for all sorts of reasons why the cooling fan suddenly turns on on a cold engine. Experienced motorists advise starting with a simple check of the coolant.

The thing is that quite often the sensor reacts by activating the fan to a lack of coolant in the system. The amount of antifreeze that is available heats up too quickly, which leads to the fan starting when the engine is still cold.

Therefore, it is not so rare that the cause of such a malfunction is the banal inattention of the car owner. Some drivers simply forget that they need to monitor the fluid level and periodically add fresh antifreeze to the expansion tank. It will gradually evaporate, so reserves need to be replenished. When the radiator is half empty, the sensor will indeed begin to react accordingly. To cool the motor, it will use air cooling, implemented using a fan.

Due to a shortage of cooling liquid, it heats up faster than with a completely filled system. And the coolant temperature does not match the engine temperature. As a result, it turns out that the engine has just been started, it has not yet warmed up, and the fan is already rotating its blades at full speed due to the high temperature of the quickly warmed up liquid.

Procedure. Step-by-step instruction

If after completing the next step the problem goes away, further checks are stopped.

1. Open the hood.
2. Wait for the engine to cool down.
3. Perform an initial visual inspection: integrity of the hoses, reliability of the clamps, absence of leaks or cracks.
4. Make sure that the expander cover elements are in good condition. Remove scale, rust, clear holes, wipe, assemble. The absence of noticeable damage to parts gives hope that the product will work.

The valve design is elementary. The cover contains a spring. Functionally, it is designed to regulate the pressure in the cooling circuit. A hot engine increases it, a cold engine decreases it.

Compressing at a value of 1.1 atmospheres, the spring relieves excess pressure and prevents the destruction of hoses and the tank. As the motor cools, it creates a vacuum effect. The tank will begin to flatten. The valve equalizes the pressure.

The lid screws tightly on the thread, eliminating distortions. There should be a gap between it and the body. An overtightened valve will not work. It is difficult to test the device's operation in road conditions. You can check by replacing it with a known good one.

Inspect the electrical wiring elements to ensure a reliable connection

Possible factors for damage to electrical circuits:

• vibration;
• oxidation;
• burning;
• breakage, fraying of electrical wires;
• insulation aging, short circuit.

Switch the tester to resistance measurement mode. Remove it with special tweezers and ring the fuse link F7 located in the mounting block.

Replace the burnt-out element with a serviceable one with a rating of 20A. Inspect and clean the nest. Insert fuse.

It was not possible to find out the reason, the protection triggered again - look for a short circuit.

Disconnect the fan plug. Use a tester to measure the circuit of the electric motor windings. Zero resistance or a break indicate the need to replace the radiator blower electric drive.

Interturn short circuits that cause multiple replacements of fuse links cannot be measured with the device.

Sensor check

Start the car. Pull out the coolant temperature sensor connector. The fan starts working - the sensor needs to be replaced. Secure the disconnected wire. Drive to a nearby service station.

Relay test

There is a hatch on the floor at the front passenger's feet.

Below it is a built-in panel with three relays of the same type:

• fan installation;
• fuel pump;
• ignition (main thing).

By replacing each other, try to start the airflow. The VAZ 2110 fan does not work - go to the next step.

Where is the VAZ 2110 cooling fan relay located?

If you are wondering where the fan relay is located on a VAZ 2110, then this photo below will answer your question and you can easily find where the cooling fan relay is located on a VAZ 2110.

Check the electric motor

Winding measurements did not reveal a malfunction. Apply voltage briefly from the battery using additional insulated conductors. The operation of the fan indicates a malfunction of the controller, which does not output a signal to the relay.

• The only correct solution is to turn on the airflow directly and urgently visit a service station.
• Prevention of breakdowns of the cooling system of the VAZ 2110 injector 16 valves.
• Periodically inspect the components of the cooling system.
• Monitor the cooling temperature on the device, listen to the operation of the fan.
• Maintain coolant level. Replace after 2 years or 30,000 km.
• Use the solution to remove rust and scale.
• Signs of a change in the properties of the coolant are a change in color, an increase in fluidity.
• Check the density with a hydrometer.
• Do not mix coolants.
• Every twelve months, rinse the expansion tank cap with water and check it on a stand with a pressure gauge.
• Avoid contact of aggressive liquids with electrical wiring and electric motor windings.

Improvements to the fan start control circuit for the VAZ 2110 injector

The smooth functioning of the engine worries factory designers, auto mechanics, and car enthusiasts. Folk craftsmen change the design of valves and electrical circuits.

Installation of three position toggle switch:

• continuously on: the VAZ 2110 cooling fan does not work;
• constantly switched off: warming up the engine when starting in the cold season, automatic control is faulty;
• automatic mode: controlled by the controller, the equipment is working properly, the algorithm is executed correctly.

When choosing an installation location, consider the following conditions:

• prevent accidental switching;
• not to be confused with other controls.

It is important to remember when modifying the design about the safety of the changes made.

Constant fan operation

This phenomenon, although rare, does occur. The reasons for the constant operation of the fan in this case may be a relay that is in a closed state or a broken wire of the device. To eliminate the breakdown, it is enough to replace the faulty element.

As you can see, you can independently diagnose and determine why the cooling fan does not turn on on a VAZ-2110 with an injector. The malfunction can be easily identified by checking each element, but there may be difficulties. In this case, you should contact specialists or start all over again. The final choice is always up to the owner of the car.

Source

Consequences of engine overheating

People and cars are similar in some ways. The healthiest person, being under the hot sun and without a hat, risks receiving a noticeable blow that will knock him down. A machine, of course, is stronger than a person, but it also has its limits.

When the engine temperature exceeds the norm, a destructive process begins.

Before you understand why the cooling fan on a VAZ-2110 with an injector does not turn on, you need to know about the consequences of overheating. Moreover, its degree depends on the stage:

• weak degree;
• average degree;
• strong degree.

Slight overheating of the engine (no more than 5-10 minutes) does not pose any threat, since any experienced driver will quickly react to the situation and turn off the engine. The worst that can happen is the pistons melt, but most modern cars won't have any problems due to mild overheating.

Average overheating (more than 20 minutes) already has a significant impact on the engine. An approximate list of troubles that may follow:

• cylinder head curvature;
• the appearance of cracks in the cylinder head;
• burnout of cylinder head gaskets;
• destruction of interring partitions;
• passing oil through the seals.

However, this is not the worst thing that can happen.

Severe overheating is a real threat to the engine. And we are not talking about the fact that the cooling fan of the VAZ-2110 with an injector does not turn on, but about much more serious things. All engine parts are damaged, sometimes even an explosion is possible. But this happens infrequently, since the car itself protects itself: each part has its own rate of destruction, and for this reason the engine simply turns off.

The destructive wave begins its movement from the combustion chambers and gradually affects all engine parts:

• The pistons begin to melt and burn out.
• Melted pieces of aluminum pistons touch the cylinder walls, which makes the piston stroke very difficult, which leads to their further destruction.
• If the engine continues to operate, then the oil begins to lose its lubricating properties.
• Due to overheated oil, all rubbing parts begin to collapse.
• The connecting rod and main bearings begin to melt.
• Under the influence of the pistons, the crankshaft breaks into two parts.

In the end, it all ends with the piston breaking through some wall of the block, which means complete destruction of the engine. Against this background, the problem of why the cooling fan of the VAZ-2110 with an injector with 16 valves does not turn on is simply a trifle.

Operating principle and triggering requirements

So, the main element of the DVV is the contact group inside the node. When the desired temperature is reached, the sensor contacts begin to expand and at a certain moment close. After this, the signal goes to the ECU, which, in turn, gives a command to the fan.

What should the switch-on temperature be? You must remember that DVVs are available with different temperature limits.

Most often, switching on occurs when 92 degrees Celsius is reached, and switching off occurs at 87. Sensors are also sold with other temperature ratings, but for the VAZ-2110 the 92/87 option is most suitable - so give preference to it.

Fuse

The elementary rules of physics state that the water contained in the coolant boils at a temperature of 100 degrees.
If the fuse valve, which is located on the expansion tank, fails, and the pressure inside the tank increases, then the liquid will boil, but the fan will not start working. The cooling element will not turn on even if the electrical circuit is working properly. This all happens because the component switching sensor on the injection VAZ-2110 has a startup temperature of more than 100 degrees.

To solve the problem with the fuse, you will need to replace the cap of the expansion tank. The new part must correspond to the possible pressure inside the system and operate in a situation where the fluid temperature reaches 105 degrees. This will result in the fan blades turning on.

Confinement of mass

The functioning of the fan depends on different methods, as you have already seen from reading this article. There is another reason that disables the fan's performance. For example, if the corresponding wires are poorly screwed to the body, the fan is connected directly to the battery. It should be noted that in this case, it is necessary to take timely measures to avoid serious problems.

With this option, you can expect the car to catch fire. If a strong short circuit occurs, then all the wires will heat up accordingly. To avoid serious consequences, you should check the connections and wires that have access to the sensor. Reliable fastening of wires and intact insulation reduces the risk of serious consequences.