VAZ 2114 injector cooling fan does not turn on reasons

A fan on any car, and the VAZ-2114, equipped with an injector, is no exception, is necessary for forced ventilation of the radiator. Thanks to this, the liquid circulating there is cooled more actively, and a more or less acceptable constant temperature is maintained on the motor. When the car is driving fast, the fan will not work - in this case, the power unit has enough natural air pressure. Standard cooling starts during stops (without stopping the engine) or when driving slowly. Like any other car component, the fan can break. How to find the cause and eliminate the malfunction is described below.

Operating principle of the cooling system

The cooling system on a car is a closed pipeline in which a special liquid circulates.
It constantly transfers heat from the running engine to the radiator, where cool air lowers its temperature. In hot weather, when driving slowly or during stops, without stopping the engine, the power plant may overheat. To avoid this trouble, the VAZ-2114 injector has an electric fan, which is turned on automatically by a special sensor when the engine reaches a critical temperature. On the model under consideration, the response threshold is 85 degrees. When the engine cools down, the thermostat stops the forced airflow.

The location of the fan on the VAZ-2114 injector is the engine compartment. It is screwed to the inside of the radiator. The unit in question consists of a blade and an electric motor enclosed in a frame casing. It is supplied with power and, indirectly (via the ECU), a temperature sensor.

Symptoms of a problem

It is not difficult to identify a problem with the fan - if it does not work, then the antifreeze quickly heats up. The on-board computer receives a corresponding signal and an indicator flashes on the dashboard, informing the person behind the wheel about a critical situation.

In this case, the driver is obliged to turn off the power plant and wait until it cools down, and only then move away, taking all precautions.

Operating a vehicle with a faulty cooling system is very dangerous. A non-working fan, especially in the summer heat, can cause very serious damage. As a rule, the cylinder head is the first to be damaged by overheating.

It’s easy to confirm a refusal:

• turn the car on to idle speed;
• open the hood;
• wait until the antifreeze warms up.

If the electric motor of the fan is not going to work, then turn off the injection engine and start looking for the cause. Fortunately, repairing a key element of the cooling system is not very difficult. We will tell you further how to find the problem and fix it.

Why the fan may not work

The signal from the control unit indicating engine overheating cannot be ignored. The faster you repair your cooling, the lower the risk of other breakdowns.

There are several main reasons why the fan stops working on a VAZ equipped with an injector. We are talking about:

• relay failure;
• broken wiring;
• fuse blown;
• poor contact in the pads;
• failure of the electric motor of the fan itself.

First of all, it is necessary to check the functionality of the blower. It's easy to do:

• disconnect the power connector from it;
• connect the terminal directly to the battery (the current is constant, but polarity is not necessary).

If the unit works, then the problem must be looked for in the electrical circuit, but when the problem is not resolved, it means that the electric motor is clearly faulty.

Electric circuit

So, you have made sure that the propeller itself is spinning, that is, the directly connected motor is working. In this case, it is necessary to do the wiring, inspect all connecting blocks and terminals for poor contact.

The first thing you should pay attention to is the fuse. A 20 ampere protective device is installed on the VAZ injector discussed in this article. It is not difficult to find it - look in the block located under the hood - the one designated as F4 is responsible for the fan. In fact, the device rarely burns out, since it does not experience constant high loads. It is very simple to make sure that the element is in good working order - turn on the ignition and press the horn. The signal is also fed through F4, and therefore, if it burns out, you will not receive sound.

Relay

On a VAZ model 2114 equipped with an injector, the relay may also fail. It is located near the fuse.

The test is carried out by replacing the electromagnetic device with a known working one. If this measure does not help, then the search for the problem continues.

temperature sensor

Now you need to check the temperature sensor on the VAZ. When it does not work, the fan operates in emergency mode, that is, constantly.

The check is carried out like this:

• remove the power connector from the sensor;
• turn on the ignition.

The blades spinning non-stop indicate that the temperature control device has failed. It cannot be repaired - buy a new one and replace it.

Broken fan

When the cooling system element in question shows no signs of life, many simply buy a new one, but this is not at all necessary. Most often, failure occurs due to abrasion of the electric motor brushes or bearing wear. Both are sold separately and can be easily changed.

It will not be possible to save the old fan of your VAZ when it has a short circuit or the winding wire has broken. Eliminating these breakdowns is impractical.

The cost of a new cooling unit is relatively high. The cheapest one sells for 1,500, and the most expensive option costs 2,500.

Professionals usually charge between 400-500 rubles for replacing a fan. But, fortunately, those who wish will be able to repair their own VAZ without resorting to their services, since the procedure is not particularly complicated.

How to change

To replace a cooling fan, you will need a working assembly, as well as:

• Phillips screwdriver;
• 10 and 8 mm socket wrenches.

First of all, put your injection VAZ-2114 on the parking brake. Additionally, secure the wheels with stops, as required by safety regulations. Then proceed as follows:

• open the hood;
• remove the negative wire from the battery;
• unscrew the bolts holding the air filter in place;
• using a screwdriver, slightly loosen the air duct clamp (it is located near the mass air flow sensor);
• dismantle the corrugation by unscrewing it from the air filter, and then remove the last unit;
• remove the air intake by first tightening its bolts with an 8 mm wrench;
• Once you have full access to the fan, disconnect its casing (it is held in place by 6 nuts);
• unplug the power connector;
• remove the faulty element from the engine compartment;
• put a new one in its place.

The assembly process is carried out in the reverse order described above.

Functionality check

After the replacement is completed, you need to make sure that the new unit on your VAZ-2114 injector is functioning properly. For this:

• start the engine;
• leave it idling;
• wait until the antifreeze heats up and the forced cooling works.

As a rule, this happens approximately 5-7 minutes after starting the engine. Now you need to make sure that the fan turns off on its own.

Sometimes car enthusiasts are faced with a situation where a new, newly installed unit does not work. Most often this happens for a trivial reason - you were foisted a defect in the store. If something is wrong, then you will have to repeat the check of all elements responsible for forced cooling of the engine in the manner described above.

As you can see, troubleshooting problems associated with a non-working fan on your own is not a particularly difficult task. If you are not confident in your own abilities, then we recommend not to experiment, but to contact a workshop.

What to do if the VAZ-2114 injector cooling fan does not work

It should be noted that if the car is moving at high speeds, there is, of course, no particular need for a working fan. But as soon as the speed of the car decreases, and also when the car is idling, you simply cannot do without a fan.

This device turns on automatically as soon as it receives a signal from the electronic control unit. This signal is based on data received from a temperature sensor, which is triggered when the coolant temperature rises to 103 degrees.

Finding possible causes of fan malfunction

The search for possible reasons why the fan on the VAZ-2114 does not work must first begin with the fan itself.
To do this, disconnect the fan connector and connect it directly to the battery terminals, while maintaining the polarity. If the fan starts working, it means that it is fully operational and the reason lies in something else. But if the fan still does not turn on after the above manipulations, you should check the condition of the sensor contacts and whether the wiring is intact. If in this case everything turned out to be fine, it’s time to check the fan relay and fuse. Both of these parts are located under the hood of the car, closer to the driver's side in a special mounting block.

It should be noted that fuses 20A and F4, responsible for the fan and sound signal, are double on the VAZ-2114. Therefore, if the reason for the fan not working lies precisely in the fuse, then the sound signal will not work. You can check the functionality of the fuse using the most common automotive tester.

But, unfortunately, you will have to tinker with the relay.

In order to confirm or rule out the relay problem, you should acquire a similar device that has been tested for performance. You need to temporarily install it in place of the old one and check whether the fan starts working. If in this case a miracle did not happen, we move on to inspecting the sensor.

After de-energizing the sensor, the fan should start in emergency mode and provide constant airflow. To do this, disconnect the sensor from the connector and turn on the car ignition. If the fan finally starts working, this indicates a sensor malfunction. The latter, by the way, cannot be repaired, which means it can only be replaced.

Purpose of fuses

What fuses are on the VAZ 2114? The electrical circuit of this car is designed in such a way that in front of all the main electrical units there are chargers located in the fuse box.

VAZ 2114 fuse diagram

The connection diagram of these protective devices is shown in the figure.

1. F1 - rated insert current 10 A - protects the fog lamps located at the rear.
2. F2 - with a current of 10 A - these are left and right turn lights, an emergency warning light, a relay-breaker for turn lights and emergency lights.
3. F3 - with a current of 7.5 A - protection of light bulbs in the cabin and trunk, trip computer circuits, ignition and brake lights, "Check engine" warning light.
4. F4 - with a current of 20 A - protects switches located in the heating circuit of the trunk door glass and heating elements of this glass, “carrying” contacts.
5. F5 - with a current of 20 A - protects the horn circuit and its switch, as well as the electric motor of the cooling system fan.
6. F6 - with a current of 30 A - this is a circuit of electric windows and their switches with contacts.
7. F7 - with a current of 30 A - a protective device for three electrical units - a heater, a windshield washer and a headlight cleaner. In addition, there is also a cigarette lighter, glove compartment lighting and winding for the heating switch for the trunk door glass.
8. F8 - with a current of 7.5 A - is protection for the right fog light bulb located in front.
9. F9 - with a current of 7.5 A - this is protection for the left fog light bulb located in front.
10. F10 - with a current of 7.5 A - protects the indicator lights on the left side, the license plate number, the engine compartment light, the dashboard lights and switches with heating levers, as well as the indicator lights for the size.
11. F11 - with a current of 7.5 A - protects the right-side headlight bulbs.
12. F12 - with a current of 7.5 A - a protective device for the right low beam headlight bulb.
13. F13 - with a current of 7.5 A - a protective device for the left low beam headlight bulb.
14. F14 - with a current of 7.5 A - protects the left high beam headlight and the blue high beam warning light.
15. F15 - with a current of 7.5 A - protects the right high beam headlight.
16. F16 - with a current of 15 A - protects the light bulbs and the turn switch and hazard warning lights, the white reverse light, the power supply of the instrument cluster, the trip computer, the generator winding (at startup), the lights indicating low oil pressure, brake fluid and parking brake, battery discharge.

When do you need to change the fan on a VAZ-2114

If the reason for the non-working fan lies in the fan itself, you can still try to repair this part.
As a rule, the problem lies in the bearings. But sometimes it also happens that due to a break in the windings or a short circuit, the fan motor itself fails. If this happens, then it is better not to try to repair anything, but to replace this part. By the way, driving a car with a non-working fan is strictly prohibited. As a result of this action, the coolant can warm up significantly, which will lead to complete destruction of the pipes and rubber hoses. Driving a short distance with the fan not working can also cause the cylinder head and valve cover gaskets to fail. But that's not all. Overheating of the engine can also destroy some elements of the piston group.

Simply put, a non-working fan (its cost, by the way, is not that high) can cause much more serious problems, the elimination of which will entail significant material costs. On average, the cost of a new fan for a VAZ-2114 varies from 1.5 to 2 thousand rubles. Replacing it at a service center will cost another 500 rubles. But replacing all the above parts and gaskets can cost more than tens of thousands.

Connection diagram for VO VAZ 2110

The circuit diagram for switching on the cooling fan of the VAZ 2110 on carburetor and injection cars is different. On cars with a carburetor engine, a thermobimetallic sensor TM-108 is used for this, and on cars with an injection engine, control is carried out by a controller.

The fan on the VAZ 2114 does not work - how to fix it? Pro Tips!

Overheating of the engine leads to serious problems: the pistons may jam, the cylinder block gasket may break, which leads to the need to overhaul the engine. To protect the power unit from overheating, it is important to maintain stable operation of the cooling fan. In this article we will discuss the operating principle of the device, its connection diagram, independent diagnostics and repair, as well as modernization of the control circuit. The instructions are fully suitable for VAZ 2115 and VAZ 2113 cars.

OPERATING PRINCIPLE

A fan is a device that allows you to increase the efficiency of a cooling radiator. The radiator takes heat from the engine and releases it into the air. This process is accelerated by blowing through the blades of an electric fan.

The coolant flows through a closed, sealed system. Its task is to remove excess heat from overheated engine parts. Hot antifreeze flows into the radiator, is cooled here and returns back. While in the radiator, the coolant passes through a system of thin tubes. The incoming air flow while the car is moving helps to quickly remove excess heat from the engine compartment.

But when the car is stuck in traffic or idling, the air flow stops cooling it. In this case, the cooling system may not cope with its task. An electric radiator fan is designed to create air flow artificially. The temperature for turning on the fan on a VAZ 2114 is 85 degrees Celsius.

Having received a signal that the permissible temperature value has been exceeded, the sensor starts the device’s operating mechanism. An artificial air flow is created that removes heat from the radiator. The mechanism operates until the temperature level drops to an optimal state.

The thermal switch then receives a signal that the normal temperature has been reached and turns off the fan.

The device consists of four plastic blades that are mounted on the EDF shaft. A special controller regulates the automatic operating mode. The thermostat is equipped with a solid filler that is sensitive to temperature changes.

There are main and additional valves. When the temperature reaches 85 degrees Celsius, the main valve opens.

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Good afternoon. My Sobol Barguzin engine 405 22 for some reason gets very hot both in winter and summer. The mileage is only 13,000 km. Tell me the reason for this unpleasant phenomenon. Thanks in advance!

Sergey (Joetta) What do you mean it gets very hot? I have the same one and it gets hot too. In winter there are only traffic jams, but in summer there are always traffic jams.

Anatoly (Birgitta) At 90 degrees the fan turns on, it doesn’t disturb much. Well, in traffic jams it’s like the law comes to the top.

Sergey (Joetta) Change the radiator to a 3-row one.

Sergey (Joetta) It happens to me all the time. The car is 10 years old and I’m driving the second engine - the same thing. I installed all sorts of radiators, but now I just don’t bother. The fan turns on at 93 and turns off at 90. I also drove through the mountains in Sochi and nothing. The main thing is that the cooling is working properly.

Sergey (Joetta) What do you have for cooling? Electric coupling or Carlson? If it is an electric coupling, then for better cooling it is necessary to add gas in the traffic jam at idle. If it’s Carlson, then it’s better to use Bosch ones with larger blades, rather than Volgov ones. It cools better.

Anatoly (Birgitta) Thank you for responding to my problem! Best wishes.

Sergey (Joetta) I removed the original fan from the electric coupling and installed an electric fan on a Bosch radiator and a Zhiguli switching sensor through a relay. The sensor was set with a response temperature of 82-85 degrees Celsius. And in the heat and in traffic jams the temperature does not rise above 85. And at the same time I live in Astrakhan where the heat is constant. THE MOUNTING ON THE RADIATOR UNDER THE FAN AND THE FAN ITSELF COST ME ONLY 1900 RUBLES.

Sergey (Joetta) I removed the original fan from the electric coupling and installed an electric fan on a Bosch radiator and a Zhiguli switching sensor through a relay. The sensor was set with a response temperature of 82-85 degrees Celsius. And in the heat and in traffic jams the temperature does not rise above 85. And at the same time I live in Astrakhan where the heat is constant. THE MOUNTING ON THE RADIATOR UNDER THE FAN AND THE FAN ITSELF COST ME ONLY 1900 RUBLES.

Anatoly (Birgitta) I read the advice. Thank you very much!

Sergey (Joetta) Isn’t the temperature too low for this engine? And where did you put the sensor? I did the same thing, but I turned on the fan by turning on the electric coupling (via a relay, of course). But problems constantly arose: either the wire on the fan broke, or there was a contact, or the relay did not work or went sour, or something else often boiled, but as long as I drove with the electric coupling, there were no overheating or problems. Yes it is noisy. By the way, the clutch activation temperature can be adjusted in the firmware, as far as I know. Just put it lower and that’s it.

Sergey (Joetta) Before installing the electric fan, I replaced the radiator, which already had a fitting for the Zhiguli sensor. Copper double-row radiator. It cost me 2900 rubles. As for the temperature for this engine, its normal operating temperature according to the data sheet is 80-90 degrees. And here's another thing. If the radiator does not have a fitting for the sensor, then a pipe with a fitting is sold. Cut the top hose and insert this pipe. My engine started to boil when I stopped the car and turned it off immediately. And that’s why I had to stop and wait for some time until it cooled down a little. And now I turn off the car immediately and if the engine is hot, the fan runs until the temperature drops because it runs directly from the battery through the fuse.

Sergey (Joetta) It’s better to have a pipe with a fitting. This topic has been raised on gazelle forums for a long time. If the sensor is in the radiator, then the temperature there is lower than the real one and everyone blocked the pipe with the sensor. I set this up as a parallel to my native inclusion. I also recommend a separate button in the interior to force the fan to turn on. You place it parallel to the sensor. Helped me in some cases.

Pavel (Morgana) on BC in the summer I set the temperature for turning on the fan to 83-85 degrees. and just to be sure, a forced button... the problem is gone.

Dima (Acacia) the normal operating temperature of this engine is 95-105 degrees; I have a 98 sensor for the winter, 92 for the summer, but it works at 93-97

WHERE IS THE FAN RELAY LOCATED?

It is located in an additional block.

4 – electric fan relay;

5 – electric fuel pump;

6 – ignition relay.

Relays and fuses may have a different order. Therefore, you need to focus on the color of the wires. The main relay is always located at the bottom. Find the relay that has a thin pink wire with a black stripe coming from it. It comes from the main relay through pin 85. Be careful! Do not confuse this with the red thin wire, which also has a black stripe and extends from the controller. And find a thick white wire with a black stripe (pin 87). This is where the cooling fan relay is located. There is always a fuse next to it. It is an element of the chain.

Control circuit modernization

The cooling fan on the top ten turns on at a temperature of 100-105°C, while the normal operating temperature of the engine is 85-90°C, so the fan turns on when the engine overheats, which naturally has a negative effect.

This problem can be solved in two ways: adjust the switch-on temperature in the “brains” or make a button. We'll focus on the second one. Turning on the fan from the button is very convenient: if you get into a traffic jam, turn it on, drive out, turn it off, and no overheating occurs.

A button for selecting the fan operating mode was installed in the cabin (always off, constantly on, automatically turned on via a sensor) - this “tuning” is not mandatory, but will be a very useful addition.

There will be a large current at relay contacts 87, 30, on the wire from the battery to the fuse and the fan ground, and therefore we must use wires there with a cross-section of at least 2 mm, otherwise the thinner wire will not withstand it and will burn out.

COOLING FAN DIAGNOSTICS

If signals appear on the dashboard indicating that the permissible temperature level in the cooling system has been exceeded, this may indicate that the fan on the VAZ 2114 is not working. The main symptom of the malfunction is that the mechanism does not start even with a significant increase in temperature. It is urgent to turn off the engine to prevent its elements from overheating.

The engine should not be operated with a faulty electric cooling fan. This may damage the cylinder head.

If the cooling fan on a VAZ 2114 does not work, the following malfunctions may be the cause of the breakdown:

• The fan switch sensor on a VAZ 2114 has failed.
• Lack of contact at the sensor connector.
• The wiring has broken.
• Electric fan relay faulty.
• The fuse has blown.
• Damage to the device's electric motor drive.

Unplug the device. Connect it to the battery terminal. Maintaining polarity. If a direct connection to an energy source starts the electric motor, then the drive is working. There may be problems with the wiring, the fuse, or the temperature sensor.

Now it’s time to diagnose the fuse. You don't even have to open the plastic box to do this. If the relay malfunctions, the horn stops working at the same time as the fan. Therefore, if you notice the loss of the sound signal, it means that the fuse has definitely blown. You can find it in the engine compartment in a small plastic box. We release the cover, pressed by two latches, take out the burnt fuse with tweezers and replace it with a new one.

But diagnosing a relay is quite difficult. Especially for those who are exclusively “you” with auto electrics. To check functionality, the easiest way is to find a working relay and temporarily install it. If, after installing a new device, the fan begins to work properly, then it is time to replace the old one.

To diagnose the temperature sensor that supplies a signal to the radiator, you need to disconnect the connector from the sensor and start the ignition. The emergency mode will start, in which the electric fan will start blowing. If the fan starts late when the connector is disconnected, the sensor is most likely faulty. Replacing it will take no more than five minutes. You just need to unscrew two bolts using a Phillips screwdriver and install a new device in its place.

Even if a malfunction has occurred in the VAZ 2114 fan itself, this does not mean that it is time to change it. Sometimes you can simply replace a damaged bearing or brushes. But if the electric motor is faulty, it is much easier to purchase a new mechanism.

Switch

This is a fairly common problem. The first step is to remove the connector from it (a slight wiggle and pull down is enough), then you need to press out the stoppers that are interfering with us with a screwdriver and the switch will be released. We measure the indicators between the extreme contacts. If the resistance is the same, you will have to disassemble it, this will not be difficult.

Inside we will see a board with contacts; a “slider” will move along them and close the necessary ones. This is what provides different resistance. Most likely, it will be enough to clean them from contamination

and work will resume.

HOW TO REPLACE

If you are convinced that the cause of the malfunction lies in the fan motor, then the easiest way to carry out repairs is to completely replace the device. In this case, there is no point in spending money on a new casing. It will be cheaper to just buy a new electric motor.

Necessary tool

No special tool is needed. The work is carried out simply using 8 and 10 socket wrenches and a Phillips screwdriver.

Step-by-step algorithm of work

You can replace the cooling fan motor without removing the radiator.

1. Disconnect the connector and device wiring harness from the casing.
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2. Unscrew the mounting bolts using a 10mm wrench.

3. Unscrew the lower fastening nut.

4. Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the mounting nut from the radiator.
5. Using a size 8 socket wrench, unscrew the two pressure plate nuts.

6. Remove the plate.

7. Remove the electric fan along with the casing.

8. Let's start dismantling the electric motor. Using a 10 mm wrench, unscrew the three mounting nuts and remove the engine along with the blades.

9. Using a screwdriver, pry up the lock washer.

10. And take it off.

11. Remove the impeller.

12. Put the impeller on the new motor. Make sure that the shaft pin fits into the impeller groove.
13. Reassemble in reverse order.

HOW TO REPLACE THE TEMPERATURE SENSOR

Before starting work, you need to partially drain the coolant from the cylinder block.

1. Remove the wire.

2. Using a 21 wrench, unscrew the temperature sensor.

3. Take it off.

4. Install the new one in reverse order.

WHAT TO DO IF THE ELECTRIC FAN WORKS CONSTANTLY?

Sometimes another problem arises. Many car enthusiasts are interested in why the fan on the VAZ 2114 is constantly running?

There are four possible causes of the malfunction:

1. a short circuit has occurred in the electrical circuit;
2. the electric fan relay has broken down;
3. The temperature sensor needs to be replaced;
4. The electronic unit is broken.

Most often, the fan starts to work continuously as a result of a shorted wire. The electrical circuit remains on regardless of the signals from the temperature sensor and relay.

To troubleshoot the problem, you need to ring each wire and find the fusion point. Sometimes it is noticeable even upon visual inspection.

If ringing does not help identify the malfunction, you need to check and replace the fan relay. The cost of the device is low. Therefore, for diagnostics it is easier to buy a new relay and install it in place of the old one.

If this does not help, then you need to check the operation of the temperature sensor. After all, it is he who is responsible for turning on and off the electric motor of the VAZ 2114 fan.

If all other elements of the system are working properly, you need to check the electronic module. It rarely fails. If the problem still occurs there, you will have to perform a complete error reset. Sometimes only a complete flashing helps. Not everyone can do this work on their own. Therefore, it is better to seek help from a car service center.

It would also be useful to install a button to force the fan to start and turn off on the VAZ 2114.

This solution can be very useful if the breakdown occurs somewhere on the highway far from the city. In this case, using the button on the instrument panel, you can force the fan to cool the engine.

Fan connection 2108, 2109, 21099

Until 1998, on cars with the old mounting fuse block 17.3722 (finger type fuses), relay 113.3747 was included in the fan circuit. After 1998 there is no such relay.

Also, before 1998, the TM-108 switching sensor was used (the closing temperature of its contacts is 99±3ºС, the opening temperature is 94±3ºС), after 1998 the TM-108-10 with similar temperature ranges or its analogues from different manufacturers. The TM-108 sensor only works in conjunction with a relay; the TM-108-10, reinforced for high current, can work both with and without a relay.

Scheme for switching on the engine cooling fan on a VAZ 2109 with mounting block 17.3722

1. Fan motor
2. Motor start sensor
3. Mounting block
4. Ignition switch

K9 - Relay for turning on the fan motor. A - To terminal “30” of the generator

Scheme for switching on the engine cooling fan on a VAZ 2109 with mounting block 2114-3722010-60

1. Fan motor
2. Sensor 66.3710 for turning on the electric motor
3. Mounting block

A - To terminal “30” of the generator

The fan on the VAZ 2114 does not work

How to quickly check the performance of the cooling fan on injection VAZ cars

Now on most cars, radiator cooling fans turn on automatically when a certain coolant temperature is reached. Also, they themselves then turn off as soon as the temperature returns to its normal limits. Yes, there are also “dinosaurs” where the fan operates in constant mode, as it is driven by a drive belt, but such cars are becoming fewer and fewer every day.

So, often a problem may arise with this electrical part on your car, and it stops turning on, which for the car owner can be fraught with consequences: engine overheating and even jamming if the necessary measures are not taken in time.

And the most unpleasant thing in this case

- you can’t just go and check by “pressing a button” whether your fan is working, and you will most likely find out about it only when the temperature suddenly creeps up rapidly, and you don’t hear the fan turning on.

how to find out if it works or not?

leon1193 › Blog › Decoding the fuse box VAZ 2109-2114

Decoding the fuse block VAZ 2109 F9 (7.5 A)

Right fog light and fog light warning lamp
F8 (7.5 A
) Left fog light fuse
F1 (10 A)
Headlight wiper motors (at the moment of switching on), headlight wiper switch relay (contacts) and headlight washer switch valve
F7 (30 A)
Electric motors headlight cleaners (in operating mode).
Relay for turning on headlight wipers (winding). Electric motor for heater fan, washer pump, rear window wiper. Rear window washer timing relay. Rear window washer activation valve. Relay for the electric radiator cooling fan (winding) and for turning on the rear window heating. Indicator lamp for turning on the heated rear window and glove compartment lighting F16 (15 A)
Turn indicators, relay-breaker for turn indicators and hazard warning lights (in turn indicator mode).
Indicator lamp for turning on the turn signal. Rear lights (high-speed running lights). Windshield wiper motor and relay. Generator excitation winding (when starting the engine) and brake fluid level warning lamp F16 (15 A)
Fuse VAZ 2109 warning lamps: emergency oil pressure, closing the carburetor air damper, turning on the handbrake.
“STOP” display. Coolant temperature and fuel level indicators. Indicator lamp for reserve fuel remaining. Voltmeter. “CHECK ENGINE” indicator light. “TEST” board. Warning lamps for the on-board monitoring system, seat belts not fastened and doors not closed. Power circuit for inertial door lock switch F3 (10 A)
Rear lights (brake signal lamps).
Interior lighting F6 (30 A)
Electric window motor, power window relay
F10 (7.5 A)
License plate lights.
Engine compartment lamp. Instrument lighting lamps. Indicator lamp for turning on the side light. Heater lever illumination display. Cigarette lighter lamp Left headlight (side light). Left rear light - side light F5 (20 A)
Radiator cooling fan electric motor and its activation relay (contacts).
Sound signal and relay for its activation F11 (7.5 A)
Right headlight (side light).
Right rear light (side light) F2 (10 A)
Direction indicators, relay-breaker for direction indicators and hazard warning lights (in hazard warning mode).
Hazard warning light F4 (20 A)
Rear window heating element.
Relay for turning on the heated rear window (contacts). Socket for connecting a portable lamp. Cigarette lighter F15 (7.5 A)
Right headlight (high beam)
F14 (7.5 A)
Left headlight (high beam).
Indicator lamp for high beam headlights F13 (7.5 A)
Left headlight (low beam)
F12 (7.5 A)
Right headlight (low beam)
1 (8 A)
Reserve fuse in the VAZ 2109 block
2 (8 A)
Reserve
3 (8 A)
Electric motors of headlight wipers at the moment of switching on).
Relay for turning on headlight wipers (contacts). Headlight washer activation valve 4 (16 A)
Headlight wiper motors (in operating mode).
Relay for turning on headlight wipers (winding). Heater fan motor. Electric motors for the rear window washer and wiper pump. Rear window washer timing relay. Valve for turning on the windshield and rear window washer. Relay for the electric radiator cooling fan (winding) and for turning on the rear window heating. Indicator lamp for turning on the heated rear window and glove compartment lighting 5 (8 A)
Turn indicators, relay-breaker for turn indicators and hazard warning lights (in turn indicator mode).
Indicator lamp for turning on the turn signal. Rear lights (high-speed running lights). Windshield wiper motor and relay. Generator excitation winding (when starting the engine). Brake fluid level warning lamp. Indicator lamp for emergency oil pressure. Indicator lamp for covering the carburetor air damper. Indicator lamp for turning on the hand brake. “STOP” display. Coolant temperature gauge. Fuel level indicator. Indicator lamp for reserve fuel remaining. Voltmeter 6 (8 A)
Fuse for rear lights (brake signal lamps) in block 2109. Interior lighting
7 (8 A)
License plate lights.
Engine compartment lamp. Instrument lighting lamps. Indicator lamp for external lighting. Heater lever illumination display. Cigarette lighter lamp 8 (16 A)
Radiator cooling fan electric motor and its activation relay (contacts).
Sound signal and relay for its activation 9 (8 A)
Left headlight (side light).
Left rear light (side light) 10 (8 A)
Right headlight (side light).
Right rear light (side light) 11 (8 A)
Direction indicators, hazard warning relay-breaker (in hazard warning mode).
Hazard warning light 12 (16 A)
Rear window heating element.
Relay for turning on the heated rear window (contacts). Cartridge for connecting a portable lamp. Cigarette lighter 13 (8 A)
Right headlight (high beam)
14 (8 A)
Left headlight (high beam).
Indicator lamp for high beam headlights 15 (8 A)
Left headlight (low beam)
16 (8 A)
Right headlight (low beam)

How to perform a check on injection VAZ cars

It is quite possible that this can also be done on other cars, but I will not vouch for the result, since I tested it with personal experience only on domestic injection cars VAZ (2109-2115), Kalina, Priora, etc.

To quickly check whether your fan is working or not, just follow these steps:

• open the hood of your car
• turn on the ignition
• we find the coolant temperature sensor (most often it is located on the thermostat housing)
• disconnect the electrical connector from it

DTOZH VAZ
If the fan motor is working properly, it should turn on immediately when you remove the “terminal” from the sensor. If this does not happen, then the fan is faulty.

Yes, you can, of course, remove the connector directly from the fan itself and check everything using the battery power supply, but you must agree that this is a much more labor-intensive process than removing the connector from the temperature sensor.

Video - connecting and checking VO

The domestic car VAZ 2114 (Samara-2) is built on the VAZ 21093 platform and is an improved version of it. The interior features a new instrument panel, a new steering wheel, an adjustable steering column, power windows and a new heater. All diagrams are taken from open sources and are intended to help in self-repair of the electrical equipment of this car. Enlarge images by clicking. The VAZ 2114 fuse box is located in the passenger compartment under the dashboard. When checking the electrical circuit of a VAZ-2114 car, you cannot check the serviceability of the circuits for a “spark” - this can lead to burnout of the current-carrying paths of the mounting block.

Malfunctions of the VAZ 2114 cooling system fan

The fan serves to generate air flows that are directed to the engine radiator. This is necessary in order to cool the liquid that circulates through it.

If the car is moving at high speed, the fan is not particularly required, since the engine receives all the necessary cooling from oncoming air flows. But when the car goes into slow driving or idle mode with the engine running, the role of the propeller becomes indispensable.

Searched device

Switching on occurs after the corresponding signal is sent from the electronic control unit. The ECU, in turn, learns about the need to turn on the fan from the temperature sensor. The switching threshold is 103-105 degrees Celsius.

In the case of the VAZ 2114, the fan (propeller) is located in the engine compartment on the back side of the radiator.

Why doesn't it work

There are several reasons why the propeller may not turn on when the temperature situation requires it:

• The electric motor of the fan, that is, the drive, has failed;
• The fuse broke and burned out;
• Relay failed;
• The wiring is broken;
• The sensor connectors have lost contact;
• The sensor has failed.

Finding the fault

When to change

If the fan itself is the cause of all the problems, it is not necessary to change it, since in some cases it can be repaired. Failures are often associated with bearings or brushes.

If the cause of the breakdown is the failure of the electric motor due to a broken wiring or short circuit, it is not worth the risk of repairing it. It is easier and better to replace the entire drive.

Checking for open circuit

If you drive a car that does not have a cooling propeller, this will lead to overheating of the coolant and destruction of pipes, rubber elements, gaskets of the main cylinder block and valve covers. It is not far from destroying the components of the piston group.

Fuse

Operating a vehicle with a broken fan is strictly prohibited.

Price issue

Before starting to solve the problem of a radiator propeller not working, it is important for many people to learn about the cost of components and labor.

A new element today will cost approximately 1.5-2.5 thousand rubles, depending on the model and region. The cost of replacement at a service station will be from 400 rubles and more. Although it is not necessary to spend money on this, since replacing it yourself will take you no more than half an hour. Yes, and there is nothing particularly complicated here.

temperature sensor

Tags: seat heating for vases

Comments 19

Participate in the discussion can only registered users.
The heater most likely broke in the seat, my butt heaters died on both seats, but the back heater is powered up and at least my back is working

Well, what the hell with this heating, it will leave him without an inheritance

Bro, heated seats are bad for boys, especially not the reproductive organs. Well, of course, if you have 2 children and there are no plans to breed offspring, then you can use it for your health

If you find the reason, unsubscribe, same problem

If the indicators on the buttons light up when turned on, then the fuses are intact (fuse 1 for both seats). Check if there is power to the pads under the seat. If there is, then the heater itself is faulty; if there is no power, there is a break somewhere between the button and the connector.

There is only one fuse for two seats, if it was blown out, the lights would not light up. Ring the heating chip from the seat back + butt should be 3.3 ohms, if 6.6 then something is broken. Most likely the butt. How to repair the popagreyka is in the book, but perhaps the connector is stupidly not connected to the seat. Ps I'm talking about the standard factory heating.

If current flows to the target, then you need to remove the upholstery, find a break and solder it. Business for an hour and a half.

Most likely the wire on the heating element has broken. This happens if you sometimes kneel on the seat. Is your whole seat not working or just the seat part? If that's all, then look at the wiring from the seat to the dashboard.

the entire seat - not the back, not the ass

I have the same nonsense! (((the fact is that the heating element (thin wire) on the driver’s seat burst (broke) It can be treated by replacing or soldering. Soldering is not recommended, it’s dangerous

Did you remove the seat and change it?

No, I’m too lazy to remove the seat trim. The wires are ringing, the current comes from the button, but does not heat the seat. Accordingly, the heating element breaks. While I’m riding without heating

My friend) the common fuse block is located under the hood, on the driver's side, everything is drawn on the cover, look there. or on the passenger side you remove the side wall, there are fuses on them too, but they are unlikely to be responsible for them))

Good luck with the repair)))

For heated seats, the front hangs right on the spit in a flask, and inside the bulb, the front is like a classic, well, I have it, on 14 it should be the same, but in the mounting block there are definitely no them, because there is no room for a front)

+1 there is one fuse for both seats, I myself couldn’t find the problem for a long time, I only found it in the spring, when it was no longer needed)))

and where was it and where is the relay, can you tell me?

The pred is hidden under the panel, a small black flask with a predator type like sixes