Quite often, especially when cold weather sets in, VAZ owners have to deal with interior heating problems. It is quite easy to find the cause of the malfunction and find out why the VAZ-2109 stove blows cold air on your own if you understand the principle of operation of the heater and find out the reason that caused this malfunction.
Operating principle of a car heater
If the car heater “refuses” to blow warm air, then, of course, the interior will be uncomfortable and unpleasant, especially in inclement, cool weather.
Having understood the principle of operation of the heater for the VAZ-2109 injector or carburetor, you can set up the operation of this device quite easily. A car heater stove can be considered a very ordinary heating device called a heat exchanger. The heating system is connected through a special tap to the system that is responsible for cooling the engine. When you turn on the stove, a special tap automatically opens, which allows cooling liquid to flow into the radiator located in the heating system. The liquid entering the radiator pipes is cooled, which leads to heat entering the cabin. The car heater is equipped with a fan that can operate in three modes. By choosing one mode or another, the driver can independently control the flow of warm air.
The instrument panel is equipped with a special handle for controlling the heater; with its help, the driver can choose which temperature he needs most: the highest or, for example, average.
What needs to be fixed?
The design and diagram of the VAZ 2109 stove are quite expected for this model and have many similarities with previous releases.
Ventilation of the VAZ 2109 interior is supply and exhaust, carried out through special holes in the windshield linings. In this case, the air easily escapes outside, but when it gets inside, it is retained using a special lining. Thanks to this, it is possible to significantly improve the thermal insulation in the cabin.
The design of the VAZ 2109 stove is quite simple and includes:
- Electric fan . It consists of an impeller capable of 3 types of speeds, and is attached to the surface of the VAZ heater with just a few screws. Additional resistors installed on the left side in the hole in the stove casing can provide the required rotation speed.
- Stove faucet . Includes the body itself, a plate valve and several pipes. In order to connect it to the heating system, special rubber hoses are used. Thanks to the plate valve, it is possible to control air heating. And a special regulator can help in this matter.
- Pump . The main task of this device is to facilitate the circulation of liquid through the radiator.
- Dampers and tap . Air is supplied to the open space, and then the heated liquid is passed there. In order for the process to begin, the dampers must be moved to the right all the way. Otherwise, the process will not be carried out.
Figure 1. Construction of a car heater.
As a rule, air for passengers of the VAZ 2108-2109 is supplied through nozzles: central, right and left. They are protected from uncontrolled air ingress by a damper with a special polyurethane foam seal. In addition, VAZ 2108-2109 drivers can adjust the flow rate: just open or close the damper more tightly. If you wish, you can change the direction of air movement.
The design of the VAZ stove allows the system to provide control conditions for passengers and the driver even at an air temperature of -20°C:
- +25°С - in the area of the feet of each person present;
- +20°С - directly inside the VAZ 2109 car.
Thus, traveling in the domestic VAZ 21099 becomes possible at any time and in any weather.
As a result, the stove begins to blow cold air into the interior.
Most often, the culprit for the fact that warm air does not flow into the cabin from the heater is a malfunction of the faucet or a stretched cable of the heating system. It is worth noting that these breakdowns can manifest themselves in VAZ-2109, which have a low panel, as well as in cars with a high panel. To find out the cause of the malfunction, first of all you should check the functionality of the crane:
- the faucet valve is checked for various contaminants;
- if contaminants that can get inside when pouring low-quality antifreeze are detected, the tap must be cleaned;
- the structure is assembled and installed in its original place.
A training video will help you learn more about cleaning the faucet of a car heater; you can watch it at a time convenient for you on the Internet resource.
The tap is not fully open
To check this, whether this is the reason why the VAZ-2109 stove does not heat, it is enough to compare the temperature of the inlet and outlet pipes of the heater radiator; if it is different, then there is a high probability that the valve is not completely closed.
This problem can be solved by tightening the valve control cable and bringing the control lever to the maximum open position. But there is a danger that after these actions the valve will not close completely and it will be very hot in the cabin.
In addition, the valve has a big drawback - it is “designed” for a certain number of openings and closings. Where the axis of the control lever and the damper inside the valve connect, the tightness is lost and a leak forms over time. A solution may be to set the lever to the “hot-cold” position without further adjustment.
Usually, when you try to move the valve of the heater stove, a leak occurs, in this case, wrap the leak area with a strip of fabric soaked in sealant and fix it all with “cold welding”.
Replacing the cable
Quite often, car owners manage to improve the operation of the heater by replacing the cable that is responsible for controlling the heater damper. After replacing or tightening the stretched cable, the stove in the VAZ-2109 begins to function normally, and warm air begins to blow both into the interior and onto the car windows, which is especially important in inclement weather. It is recommended to replace or tighten the cable in the following sequence:
- if a visual inspection indicates that the cable cannot be used in the future due to obvious damage, it must be replaced as quickly as possible;
- if this element is simply stretched, then you can tighten it with a regular screwdriver by making a couple of turns clockwise;
- Finding the cable is quite simple; it is located on the heater body, near the gas pedal.
A correctly adjusted length of the cable, which you can learn from the training video tutorial on the Internet resource, will help keep the damper in the desired position, which, in turn, will close the resulting gap and the interior will begin to be heated by a warm air flow.
Checking the functionality of the heater elements
The first step is to test the fan. To do this, you need to turn on the ignition, and then start the fan by setting its switch to the first speed position. If it is working properly, the sound of its operation should be clearly heard. If the cabin is quiet, open the hood and listen to the sounds of the fan in the engine compartment. If the heater fan is “silent,” it means that you will have to remove it from the car and have it checked by an auto electrician, or, if you have the appropriate knowledge, check it yourself.
The stove blows cold air VAZ 2109 at idle
Situations in which drivers wonder why the heater blows cold air at idle are not uncommon. Most often, they include novice motorists, women and owners of “middle-aged” cars, but exceptions are possible. What should you do if this happens to you? – Of course, look for the cause of the problem and eliminate it. This is what we will do now.
The stove blows cold at low speeds: causes and solutions.
We always say that everything in a car is interconnected, therefore, if one of its elements breaks down, the source of the problem must be looked for in everything that is directly or indirectly connected with this element. The cooling system is no exception. It can produce cold air at idle under the following circumstances:
- there is too little coolant in the expansion tank;
This is perhaps the most common option. Agree, even though we know that the amount of antifreeze in the system needs to be checked before each trip, we don’t always do this. As a result, the coolant level may become critically low, that is, insufficient to cope with its functions at low speeds.
What to do: check the coolant level in the expansion tank and, if necessary, top up to the required level.
- air pockets have formed somewhere;
In cases where work has recently taken place that requires replacing or partially draining the antifreeze, the reason that the heater is blowing cool may be air pockets formed inside the tubes, which simply do not allow the coolant to circulate normally.
What to do: put the front of the car on a hill, unscrew the cap from the expansion tank, start the car and wait until it warms up - you will notice bubbles appearing as soon as they pass - turn off the car, wait until it cools down a little (so as not to get burned) and return the cap to place.
- pump is faulty;
Another problem that may cause warm antifreeze to not reach the heater is a faulty water pump.
What to do: detecting this problem is often quite simple by the characteristic knocking and rumble. If you haven’t noticed one, watch your vehicle; if it gets very hot, even to the point of boiling, remove the pump and disassemble it. If the impeller lives its own life or does not spin at all, replace it or the entire water pump.
- radiator tubes are clogged
A very common option, along with an insufficient level of coolant: salts and dirt gradually accumulate on the walls of the tubes supplying coolant to the radiator during operation, and over time there are so many of them that hot liquid cannot even pass through them. As a result, the radiator remains cold, as does the air passing through it.
What to do:
Option 1: Flush the system. To do this, drain the coolant present in it, and in its place, fill in a special cleaning composition or a concentrated solution of citric acid. Start the engine and let it warm up to operating temperature. Drain the cleaning solution and add fresh coolant.
Option 2 (usually used only if the previous method was ineffective). Replace the tubes and radiator.
- coolant supply is cut off;
Almost every modern car is equipped with a tap that allows you to shut off the supply of antifreeze to the heater. It allows you to avoid the risk of overheating the interior in the warm season, but at the same time, being a weak point of the heating system, it can create additional troubles.
What to do: check the position of the tap and open it if necessary. If the faucet is jammed, it must be replaced.
A little advice: if you own a VAZ , we advise you to overpay a little and purchase a faucet not of domestic production, but of the Audi brand - with it you will not have to replace it every six months.
- low coolant temperature;
The last situation in which the heater can give off cold is cold antifreeze. And it can be like this in two cases:
- it's too cold outside, so on short trips the engine simply doesn't have time to warm up
What to do: insulate the engine compartment.
- The thermostat has broken down - it is stuck in the open position, as a result of which the coolant “drives” in a large circle, not allowing it to warm up properly.
What to do: check and, if necessary, replace the failed part.
How to open a window when the SP is not working
Sometimes problems arise on the way, and the possibilities of self-diagnosis, and especially repair, are significantly limited. How to raise the window in such cases if the window regulator refuses to work? We have put together a small selection of tips that will help you get out of this unpleasant situation with honor:
- A screwdriver or pliers are enough to remove the door trim. This will allow the glass to be disconnected from the actuator, after which it can be raised or lowered by hand. To fix it in the upper position, the glass will have to be supported with something suitable, at least with a stick. In this condition, you can operate the machine for several days until it becomes possible to carry out a full repair;
- It is often possible to lift the glass manually by holding it between the palms of your hands and pulling upward with force. If the edge of the window is not visible, you will need to remove the rubber gaskets, and if this does not help, proceed to the previous step;
- Often the inoperability of the joint venture is caused by a banal discharge of the battery, especially after a long period of inactivity. The problem is solved by recharging the battery. You can try to “borrow” it from a neighbor, at least to raise the glass. But if you are in a hurry, and there is no compassionate neighbor, try pressing the “Up” key with high frequency - sometimes the glass actually begins to rise a little;
- You can raise a lowered window if the window lifter does not work using a barbaric method called “fishing”. It consists of using a fairly strong hook that squeezes into the gap between the door and the window. By moving it down/up and to the sides, you can hook onto the actuator and try to pull the glass up with this hook;
- if the joint venture does not respond to your actions, you need to check whether power is supplied to the electric motor. This is done as follows: turn on the ignition, and then turn on the overhead lamp, then press the window lifter button. If power is supplied to the motor, the intensity of the glow will decrease momentarily. In this case, you can try to revive the engine by pressing the ESP button and hitting the handle with which you open the door with your fist with considerable force. Sometimes this helps - if the reason lies in the wedging of the worm due to worn teeth of the plastic gear of the gearbox. This usually happens in the extreme (usually lower) positions of the glass;
- If the window regulator does not go down, the reason may be a broken electrical wiring. In such cases, it is necessary to open the door and remove the casing with wires. To check the lack of contact, you will need the help of a friend who will press the SP button, and at this time you will pull each of the wires in turn. If the glass moves, you have found a malfunction, and you can even fix it yourself;
- if you are convinced that the motor is intact and the problem is not a faulty gearbox (if the window goes down normally, without jerking or suspicious sound effects, but does not want to go up), try rearranging the wires going to the motor, and then press the “Down” key . If the glass rises, you can lower it before repairs can be made by repeating this procedure.
We hope these tips will help you temporarily solve the problem of your power window not working.
