Why the speedometer on the Lada Kalina does not work: the main reasons and malfunctions

December 30, 2014 Lada.Online 126 154 62

The speedometer is designed to determine the instantaneous speed of a vehicle. If the speedometer does not work, then driving a car is prohibited by traffic rules. The article is devoted to solving the problem when the car speed needle is at zero, jumps and jerks randomly, or its readings are incorrect.

On Lada Granta, Lada Kalina (2nd and 1st generation) and Lada Priora cars, malfunctions in the speedometer are solved in similar ways.

Why the speedometer on the Lada Kalina does not work: the main reasons and malfunctions

You can often hear from Lada Kalina car owners that the speedometer has stopped working. The most common reason for this is a faulty speed sensor. As a result, the speedometer needle may jump on the scale or simply remain motionless. It may also freeze frequently.

In the video, replacing the speed sensor (this is the main breakdown):

Main symptoms and causes of failure

There are obvious discrepancies between the speedometer and tachometer, and besides, the car is driving at first speed!

This happens both while driving and when the car is simply standing still. For such a malfunction to make itself felt, it doesn’t matter how long the car has driven.

Also, in some cases, a sensor may light up, which indicates a malfunction of the power steering. It would seem that these malfunctions have nothing in common, but the speed of a car has been measured electronically for a long time.

Speed ​​sensor

Thanks to electronics, the car can regulate the fuel supply itself. The sensor operates based on the Hall effect . It transmits rotation impulses from the wheel to the controller. If the car is coasting and the speed is no more than 20 km. hour, the system will automatically stop supplying fuel.

Various sensors can be installed on the Lada Kalina. They have the same seats, but are different from each other. In the event that a sensor on a car breaks down, it will be impossible to measure the speed of the vehicle. This will also affect the deterioration of engine performance.

Articles

1. 1118-3843010.
2. 1118-3843010-02.
3. 1118-3843010-04.

1118-3843010-04 - the most common speed sensor article number

Symptoms of a broken speed sensor

The sensor must be replaced if the following malfunctions occur:

1. The speedometer needle jumps or freezes.
2. Mileage does not count.

3. Power steering does not work.
4. The arrow that shows the fuel level in the tank (tank volume on a station wagon) jumps.
5. The light comes on, indicating that the engine needs to be checked.

Repair methods

Inspecting the speed sensor connector

Another reason why the speed sensor does not work may be a wet connector. As a result, the contacts on it begin to oxidize. To avoid this, you need to cover the contacts with sealant.

Dirt deposits on the speed sensor, in this case it is also recommended to check the condition of the oil in the gearbox

It is also not recommended to immediately change the speed sensor when a malfunction is detected. Initially, it is necessary to identify the cause of the malfunction. Clean all contacts and check the device with a tester. Only after identifying the exact cause of the malfunction can it be changed.

Replacing the sensor

To change the speed sensor you do not need any special knowledge. Anyone can do this kind of work on their own. To do this you need:

1. Turn off the ignition.
2. Remove the air filter.
3. Disconnect the wires.
4. Unscrew the device mount.

Removing the speed sensor

Sometimes simply cleaning the contacts can help. In the case when the car has an eight-valve engine, the replacement is a little more complicated than with a 16-valve engine. In this case, you will also have to remove the corrugation that is attached to the filter. The sensor itself is located on the gearbox housing.

Failure of the speedometer itself (instrument panel)

The speed sensor may not always be the reason why the speedometer does not work. The reason may also be in the instrument panel. Here we must remember that it is impossible to repair it or replace some parts on it separately. They just change it completely.

VAZ-2110 dashboard: pinout

Probably, hardly anyone will argue with the fact that the VAZ “ten” is not the pinnacle of design thought. However, there is nothing surprising here, because this car was designed back in the last century. At the same time, the compensator, and quite a serious one, in this case is the price. In other words, a certain compromise is proposed - the imperfection of the car in exchange for an acceptable cost. Well, the choice is ultimately made by the car owner himself, deciding whether this option is suitable for him.

You can talk about the advantages and disadvantages of this model for quite a long time. However, this is not what we are talking about now. Those who decide that the “ten” is a suitable option in terms of the ratio between price and quality often want to somewhat refine their iron horse during operation, making changes to both the exterior and the interior.

If we talk about tuning the car interior, then one of the main objects of improvement here is the dashboard. Many people simply don’t like the native version, which, frankly, doesn’t look very attractive. Yes, after the “Zhiguli” this is an undoubted step forward, but it’s already the 21st century outside the window, and I want something more beautiful and pleasing to the eye.

What to do if the speedometer does not work on the Lada Kalina

Speedometer is a device for determining the speed of a car. Manufacturers have moved away from using mechanical speedometers due to errors in speed calculations. They were made through a rotating cable. On modern cars, electromechanical devices are installed, where the calculation is done through the operation of electronics. The article examines the question of why the speedometer on the Lada Kalina does not work, sources of damage, and ways to eliminate them. Other problems that affect the operation of the speed counter will be described in detail.

Principle of operation

Lada Kalina 1 and 2 series are equipped with speedometers similar in operating principle. Their operation is carried out by a speed sensor mounted in the gearbox. For cars of both series, this sensor is located near the right CV joint, next to the dipstick for measuring the oil level in the gearbox. During the rotation of the drive wheels, the EMF transmits electrical impulses to the ECU. Based on the pulse frequency, the calculation is transmitted from the on-board computer to the speedometer.

In addition to determining the speed, the fuel consumption of the machine depends on the operation of the EMF. The ECU calculates engine speed, thereby enriching the mixture with fuel and air as needed. The operation of the power steering also depends on this unit.

Rear door wiring harness diagram Kalina 2

1 – contacts of the tailgate wiring harness to the rear wiring harness block; 2 – block of the wiring harness of the rear additional (tailgate) to the block of the wiring harness of the license plate lights; 3 – gear motor for the electric drive of the tailgate lock; 4 – rear window heating element; 5 – rear window wiper gear motor; 6 – tailgate lock; 7 – contacts of the tailgate wiring harness to the rear wiring harness block 2; 8 – additional brake signal.

Symptoms of a problem

Many factors can indicate that the speed sensing device is damaged. The dashboard indicators will display the following error codes:

• P0500 signals that the supply of electrical impulses from the sensor has stopped;
• P0503 notifies of intermittent pulses from the sensor.
• Check Engine indicates interruptions in the operation of the power unit.

A faulty part can be determined by a non-functioning speedometer.

1. When moving, the arrow jumps chaotically. The reason for this lies in interruptions in the transmission of EMF pulses.
2. The arrow does not respond to an increase in speed. Complete absence of signals. The source of the problem is poor electrical wiring contact.
3. The fuel gauge needle moves irregularly. Occurs due to a failure in fuel calculation. Readings from the EMF are calculated and transmitted to the fuel distribution sensor. For example, at a speed of 20 kilometers per hour, the fuel supply is reduced. This was done by the manufacturer itself to reduce consumption. Incorrect EMF readings introduce an error in the calculation of fuel consumption.
4. The odometer stops working. This counter is directly dependent on the speedometer. It also works from ECU readings based on the speed of rotation of the drive wheels.
5. The power steering stops functioning.

EMF damage can be determined by the behavior of the power unit.

1. Fuel consumption increases.
2. Speed ​​increases unstably when accelerating.
3. Significant reduction in power.

All these reasons will require urgent diagnostics of the speed sensor for operability.

Examination

A common malfunction in the transmission of electronic signals is a disruption in the electrical circuit. Kalina frets series 1 and 2 are equipped with sensors with poor contact protection from moisture. To check, you need to disconnect the sensor from the electrical circuit by simply disconnecting the plug from the socket. For 8 valve vehicles, the sensor is located under the bellows of the air filter. It will have to be dismantled. To check, you will need a tester and a simple screwdriver. Next you need:

1. Connect the “+” probe of the tester to the pulse contact “2” of the connector. He is central.
2. Connect the “minus” of the tester to the engine housing.
3. Set the tester to DC voltage measurement mode.
4. Rotate the sensor rod.
5. Monitor the tester readings.

The operation of the device will be indicated by an increase in voltage. It should vary from 0.5 to 12 volts. During constant rotation, there should be no interruptions in the supply of impulses. If this happens, you should simply clean the contact socket from dirt and oxidation and repeat the test.

The cause of a malfunction of the speed sensor may be its depressurization at the landing site. Occurs due to large shaking if the part was poorly secured earlier. You just need to dismantle the device, replace the rubber o-ring and secure the part with a “22” key.

Electrical diagram of the rear wiring harness Kalina 2

1, 2 – rear wiring harness blocks to the instrument panel wiring harness blocks; 3 – right side direction indicator; 4 – left side direction indicator; 5 – hand brake sensor; 6 – rear wiring harness block to the tailgate wiring harness contacts; 7 – interior lighting unit; 8 – switch in the driver’s seat belt; 9 – trunk lighting; 10 – electric fuel pump module; 11 – right lamp; 12 – rear wiring harness block to the tailgate wiring harness contacts; 13 – left lamp; 14 – rear wiring harness block to rear left door wiring harness block; 15 – rear wiring harness block to rear right door wiring harness block; 16 – rear wiring harness block to the front right door wiring harness block; 17 – rear wiring harness block to the front left door wiring harness block; 18 – airbag control unit; 19 – rear wiring harness block to the front wiring harness block; 20 – block of the rear wiring harness to the block of the wiring harness of the parking system sensors; 21 – control unit and alarm unit of the safe parking system; 22 – parking system switch; 23 – speaker of the safe parking system; 24 – switch for interior lighting in the driver's door pillar; 25 – interior light switch in the right front door pillar; 26 – switch for the interior lighting in the pillar of the right rear door; 27 – interior light switch in the left rear door pillar; 28 – right seat electric heater switch; 29 – left seat electric heater switch; 30 – electric heater of the right seat; 31 – electric heater of the left seat; 32 – driver’s seat belt pretensioner; 33 – passenger seat belt pretensioner; 34 – central unit of body electronics; 35 – sensor for automatic glass cleaning system (rain sensor); 36 – rain sensor sensitivity regulator; 37 – rear wiring harness block to the instrument panel wiring harness block; 38 – right rear speed sensor; 39 – left rear speed sensor.

Dismantling

To check the integrity of the rod, you will have to remove the part from its seat. Next, the rod itself is checked. There should be no free play, distortions, or “eaten” edges of the rod.

Replacement

If the cause of poor pulse transmission is not dirty contacts, the speed sensor will have to be replaced. For this you will need:

1. Loosen the air filter bellows clamp.
2. Remove the corrugation.

3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor.

4. Using a size 22 wrench, unscrew the sensor. This is done extremely carefully so as not to tear off the plastic edges of the part.
5. Remove the part from the mounting location.
6. Clean the EMF installation site from dirt.
7. Secure the new unit and assemble the remaining components in exactly the reverse order.

Attention! Lada Kalina cars were equipped with various modifications of the EMF. Replacement must be made only with a completely identical option.

Other damage

If, after installing a new sensor, the speedometer on the Lada Kalina still does not work, the reason must be sought in the electrical circuit of this device.

Bad "0"

To determine whether the speedometer is in poor contact with the vehicle's ground, it is necessary to dismantle the device itself. After dismantling, you will notice that a black wire enters the speedometer housing and is connected to the frame. This wire is secured to the frame using an “8” bolt.

1. Unscrew the bolt.
2. Clean the contact itself and its connection with sandpaper.
3. Screw the wire contact into place.
4. Check the speedometer operation.

A break in the negative wire can only occur after a poor-quality replacement of the speedometer. You cannot connect a broken wire with simple twisting. If the problem persists, you should pay attention to the vehicle's safety unit.

Fuse

A 10-amp fuse is responsible for protecting the speedometer from electrical surges. In the safety block it is designated “F1” and is located first in the row. Its malfunction will be indicated by the complete absence of speedometer lighting. Next you need:

1. Remove the fuse from its socket.
2. Set the multimeter to beep mode.
3. Connect both multimeter probes to the fuse terminals.

If there is no sound signal, this indicates a faulty speedometer fuse. It is worth remembering that the replacement must be made with a similar sample, marked “10A”. Fuses of a lower rating will often blow out or lead to the passage of excess voltage into the electronic circuit of the device. It is also prohibited to screw jumper wires onto the fuse.

The check can be carried out visually. The transparent fuse housing allows you to see the condition of the jumper wire.

If, after checking the electrical circuit, replacing the sensor and fuse, the speedometer on Kalina does not work, then it is completely out of order. This device cannot be repaired and there are no spare parts for it. Will have to replace it with a similar model.

Electrical connection diagrams for the instrument panel of LADA KALINA 11174, 11184, 11194 cars

Electrical connection diagram for the instrument panel of LADA KALINA 11174, 11184, 1119 cars

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Electrical connection diagram for the instrument panel of LADA KALINA 11174, 11184, 11194 cars.

(click to enlarge).

Dashboard diagram for LADA KALINA 11174, 11184, 11194 cars.

(click to enlarge).

List of elements of the electrical connection diagram of the instrument panel wires of LADA KALINA 11174,11184,11194 cars

1,2,3,4 – blocks of the instrument panel wiring harness to the blocks of the rear wiring harness; 5,6 – blocks of the instrument panel wiring harness to the blocks of the front wiring harness; 7 – block of the instrument panel wiring harness to the block of the wiring harness 8 – block of the instrument panel wiring harness to the block of the front wiring harness; 9 – lighting control module; 10 – ignition switch; 11 – on-board computer mode switch; 12 – windshield wiper switch; 13 – sound signal switch; 14 – light signaling switch; 15 – instrument cluster; 16 – evaporator temperature sensor; 17 – interior air temperature sensor; 18 – air conditioner switch; 19 – controller of the automatic climate control system; 20 – heater damper gearmotor; 21 – rear window heating switch; 22 – alarm switch; 23 – brake signal switch; 24 – cigarette lighter; 25 – electric amplifier control unit; 26,27 – blocks of the instrument panel wiring harness to the radio; 28 – backlight lamp for the heater control panel; 29 – illuminator; 30 – mounting block: 31 – heater electric motor switch; 32 – heater electric motor; 33 – additional resistance of the heater electric motor; 34 – glove box lighting; 35 – glove box lighting switch; 36 – control unit of the APS-6 automobile anti-theft system; 37 – driver airbag module; 38 – passenger airbag module; 39,40 – blocks of the instrument panel wiring harness to the blocks of the ignition system wiring harness.

KZ – additional starter relay; K4 – additional relay; K5 – relay-interrupter for direction indicators and hazard warning lights; K6 – windshield wiper relay; K7 – headlight high beam relay; K8 – sound signal relay; K9 – relay for turning on fog lights; K10 – relay for turning on the heated rear window; K11 – electric seat heating relay; K12 – air conditioner compressor clutch activation relay;

Instrument panel wiring harness – 11186-3724030-20.

added 12/30/10 09:49:55 | viewed 21957 times

Accessories

Over the years, on cars of 2 series, speed sensors of various modifications were installed on Kalina. They differ only in appearance. The factory EMF marking for the original gearbox begins with the digital designation 1118. If a Lada Priora gearbox is installed on Kalina, the EMF marking will begin with the numbers 2170. This is not so important. Original speed sensors are marked with article numbers: 1118-3843010-04, 1118-3843010-02, 1118-3843010. One of the most common faults is replacing a faulty EMF with a non-original analogue. The analogue operating from the gearbox does not transmit accurate data or its drive breaks down.

Lada Kalina Universal My car › Logbook › Speedometer does not show speed and something else

Good afternoon to everyone reading the logbook! Today I figured out a problem that reappeared a year after it first appeared and was cured. Then I didn’t even write in the logbook. What happened the first time: The speedometer needle began to “float”, i.e. move independently regardless of speed. It started after washing the engine compartment with diligence with a high pressure washer. After reading the Internet, it was found that the reason for the “floating” speedometer needle is a glitch in the speed sensor.

During washing, water entered the terminal block through the inlet holes for the wires. Using a 10 mm socket wrench, I unscrewed one nut and pulled out the sensor. It had no external damage, but there was dirt inside the recess with the contacts. This liquid dirt shortened 3 contacts and the speedometer did not work correctly (note that it worked!) How to remove dirt from the recess?

There's not much space there. I tried as much as I could, but it didn’t help, the dirt doesn’t come off completely. I took a high pressure washer and washed the dirt out of there. It dried out a little inside, I installed the old speed sensor in place and connected the terminal block to it. The problem disappeared and I decided that there was NO NEED to WASH THE UNDER-HOOD SPACE WITH A HIGH PRESSURE WASHER.

I drove around happily for about a year, but the problem returned. This time the speedometer simply stopped showing speed. And after some time after starting to move, at low speeds the electric booster turned off or simply gave such force that it was difficult to turn the steering wheel (as at high speed). In addition, the “Check Engine” indicator came on and after checking through the bluetooth adapter I saw the error “fault in the speed sensor circuit”, I don’t remember what code, 500 or 501 or something. And if anyone needs it, the mileage readings have stopped adding up. But this time I didn’t pour water into the sensor! I thought that I must have driven into a puddle and flooded the terminal block. I took it off and it was damp inside. I washed it, dried it, put everything back together, but the speedometer still doesn’t work. I looked inside the terminal block with the wires, and there one contact broke off. I bought a “Repair kit - Speed ​​sensor block 1117,1118,1119 CARGEN” for 90 rubles (now it costs a little more). This is a terminal block and a tail of 3 wires 10 cm each. I soldered a new terminal block instead of the old one, and filled the holes for introducing wires into the terminal block with sealant - so that water did not get inside the terminal block (as in the first case of repair). I went for a ride and the speedometer didn’t work again! Well, I think now the speed sensor is definitely screwed up, it’s time to buy a new one. I bought it for 360 rubles. the same gray, Priorovsky. Only I had 2170-3843010-04 and I bought 2170-3843010-02 - i.e. different manufacturer. The sensor is new, the terminal block is new, but the problem is old