Reasons why Lada 4×4 does not start (the starter does not turn)

January 28, 2016 Lada.Online 252 434 6

Often, owners of a VAZ 2121 or 2131 SUV encounter problems with starting the engine. For example, when you turn the ignition key, the starter does not turn. Let's look at possible problems with the Lada 4×4 starter and ways to solve them.

Silence when trying to start the engine

The Niva crankshaft cannot be turned by the starter.

There may be several reasons:

1. Blown fuse.
2. Poor contact between battery terminals.
3. The battery is completely discharged.
4. Failure of the starter solenoid relay.
5. Failure of the intermediate relay that switches the starter circuit.

First of all, you should pay attention to the dashboard. When you turn on the ignition or the main electrical circuit in the engine, the lamps should light up on the dashboard or information should appear on the on-board computer, if we are talking about the Chevrolet Niva.

If this does not happen, the cause should be sought in the fuse box and in the battery contacts. During operation, oxides may form on these contacts, increasing the resistance. Loose contact connections can lead to sparking and burning.

If no blown fuses are found, you should check the reliability of the “+” contacts of the battery with the central wire and the “-” contacts with the vehicle ground.

To eliminate the malfunction, be sure to replace the fuses and clean the contacts. It would be a good idea to acquire even the cheapest tester in order to quickly check the presence of voltage in the electrical circuits of the car.

Possible faults

No matter how trivial it may sound, if the injector does not start, it means something has gone wrong. The success and speed of repair depends on how quickly and efficiently the problematic link in the car’s design can be identified

To better understand the essence of repair activities, it would be a good idea to pay attention to potential breakdowns. The basic list of the latter is as follows:

• Malfunctions of the injector itself. In the event of a breakdown of this kind, as a rule, the car does not start either cold or hot. On top of that, the injector indicator on the dashboard or on-board computer constantly lights up, signaling its malfunction. It is much less common for the engine to work when the indicator is on, but in this case the car starts poorly and is extremely unstable. It is worth noting that the injectors in the injector most often become clogged or the ECU burns out, so it is advisable to check these components first;
• Ignition system failures. Here the list of possible faults is quite large. Often the candles that suffer are simply flooded. In the event of such a breakdown, the car starts and immediately stalls, but in the long term it stops even “grasping.” Other components of the ignition system (coil, module, distributor, crankshaft sensor, etc.) are noticeably less likely to suffer;
• Incorrect operation of the fuel system. In this aspect, injection engines most often suffer on three fronts:
• Fuel filters are clogged (the car “picks up”, but does not start; if the engine starts, it is extremely unstable);
• The fuel pump is faulty (its characteristic operating sound is absent when you turn the ignition key, the injector itself simply does not start both cold and hot, the starter turns).
• There is insufficient pressure in the fuel system (the engine starts up reluctantly both cold and hot, but if it starts working, it functions unstable);
• Engine problems. Perhaps the widest range of possible malfunctions. Often the reason lies in weak compression or incorrectly adjusted valves. In any case, with a “motor” starting problem, high-quality engine diagnostics are required, otherwise it will be very difficult to determine the cause of the malfunction.

Clicking noises when trying to start the engine

If all contacts and fuses of the Niva are normal, you should turn the ignition key to the “start” position and listen to see if the relay clicks. If clicking sounds are heard clearly, the problem may lie in the starter voltage relay, the solenoid relay, or the starter coil circuit.

In “male” car services, the serviceability of the solenoid relay is usually checked by closing its contacts with a large screwdriver until the starter begins to rotate. For safety reasons, this should not be done under any circumstances.

If the problem is in the intermediate relay , then it is quite easy to replace it on the Niva. It is enough to insert the new relay block into the terminal block, observing the sequence and polarity of the connection.

To check the serviceability of the solenoid relay , the starter will have to be removed. After this, holding the starter, you should connect it to the battery and apply voltage to the contact of the solenoid relay. If a click is clearly heard, then the solenoid relay is working properly.

Also interesting: Design, operation, description, device, car repair Niva VAZ 2121, engine, assembly, disassembly, transmissions, gearboxes

Perhaps the cause of the malfunction is oxidized and burnt contact pads of the starter . To check them, you should disassemble the solenoid relay and clean the contact group. Sometimes the solenoid relay is non-separable and must be replaced along with the contact group.

If the solenoid relay works, but the starter rotor does not rotate, it is necessary to check the condition of its brushes, which may have worn out so much that they have lost contact with the winding. In this case, repairing the starter costs little money.

If the rotor is jammed or its winding is burned out, it is best to replace the starter assembly.

14.15. It won’t start - useful tips

Your technical equipment must be impeccable - after all, the time you have is the same money that, we hope, you also have. Don't lose either one or the other. If a missing tie out of nowhere or a pant leg burnt by an iron can cause a business meeting to be disrupted, what can we say about a car that doesn’t want to start an hour before the scheduled negotiations.

. Early in the morning, freshly shaved and full of great plans (child – to school, wife – to the hairdresser, and yourself – to forge a penny), you jump into the car, “key to start” and. What the hell . One more time. More . Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is ruined from the very beginning. Plans and mood are down the drain.

Calm down. There is no need to rush under the hood in an English suit and, smearing the oily dirt with a tie, try to make a diagnosis. You probably won't be able to cure it in 5 minutes. Take another car, and leave the treatment of your sick friend until the evening. And it’s better to entrust it to doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have an expensive car and you are not a specialist. It will be cheaper this way. Well, if your friend is well known to you and you consider yourself a healer, well, try it yourself, if you’re not too lazy to get dirty or there’s no other way out.

The starter rotor turns, but does not rotate the engine crankshaft

In some cases, the starter turns on, but instead of starting the Niva engine, a whistle or grinding noise is heard. Possible causes of the malfunction in this case are failure of the overrunning clutch mechanism (“Bendix”) or jamming of the retractor relay rod.

In the first case, it is necessary to replace or repair the overrunning clutch, and in the second, clean the retractor relay rod and lubricate it with grease recommended by the manufacturer. Any Litol type lubricant is suitable for this.

How to remove the Niva 21214 starter in 10 minutes. The cause of the malfunction of the removed starter NIVA VAZ 21214

Preparation for quick removal of the starter in extreme conditions.
Quickly remove the starter and eliminate the cause of a possible malfunction. How to remove an acoustic pipe from a Niva receiver Why do you need an acoustic pipe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fXPZ5dVIEXQ As you noticed, the lower bolt of the starter was deliberately never screwed in again, after the first removal of the starter during the initial period of operation of the car. Also, the heat shield of the starter, whose lower mounting bolt quickly sticks when driving through mud, was not put in place. Because of this, in order to remove the screen, you have to cut off the lower attachment point or tear the screen itself. I don't want to go through this procedure a second time. The fact that there is no lower mounting bolt for the starter and a heat shield has its advantage for field drivers who often operate their vehicles, for example, in the conditions of Siberian swamps, river fords and frosts. Very often the cause of a starter malfunction is simple. For example, as in this video, or even funnier - the red wire (also shown in the video) from the solenoid relay has simply oxidized or weakened. It is enough to MOVE it and the starter will spin. You can make the starter spin if the nickels in the solenoid relay are burned by closing (carefully, with something not large in size, but massive and iron, without touching the mass of the engine body) the power wires on the solenoid relay. It's easy to do all this without a screen. And if necessary, the starter can be easily removed. It happens, for example, that the starter breaks down, and the car is parked at the entrance, and it’s -30 outside! Yes, even in the summer! You still need to remove the starter. Negotiate with your neighbor about a garage? Or take it to service? But you can remove it EASILY AND QUICKLY yourself, right at the entrance. Buy a new starter or solenoid relay from your local store. And an hour later the car drove off. And if the car is parked in a puddle or mud, then crawl under the car and turn the bottom bolt? In short, there are many life situations where the absence of a bolt and a heat shield will greatly simplify your life. The author of the video does not pretend that others will perceive his opinion and his proposed method of solving the problem as the only correct one. Decide this for yourself. The author simply suggested the option: “How to remove the Niva 21214 starter in 10 minutes and determine the cause of the malfunction of the removed Niva 21214 starter” https://youtu.be/n_PmQADIfNg

The engine starts but soon stalls

The most common reason for this behavior of the Niva engine is the presence of any obstacle (air lock, clogged filter or failed fuel pump) in the path of fuel, or its complete absence. Look at the fuel level sensor. Perhaps you simply forgot to refuel your SUV, or the fuel left the tank against your will (it was leaked or drained by criminals).

In this case, be sure to check the integrity of the tank surface, all hoses and the filler neck shut-off device.

To check the serviceability of the fuel pump on gasoline carburetor engines, simply remove the hose from the carburetor inlet pipe and lower it into a previously prepared container.

After this, within 15-20 seconds you should crank the engine crankshaft with the starter, or pump up fuel manually. At the same time, a pulsating stream of fuel should appear from the hose. If this does not happen, the fuel filter must be replaced, and the fuel pump must be repaired or replaced.

In hot weather, when the car is left idle for a long time in the sun, another problem can occur: a vapor lock in the gas line. To remove it, you should use a regular tire pump, put its hose on the fuel supply fitting going to the gas tank and pump the pump several times. As a rule, this is quite enough to start the Niva engine.

In a Chevrolet Niva with electronic fuel injection, to determine the health of the fuel pump, you need to turn on the ignition and listen. When the electric pump is working properly, a quiet buzzing sound is always heard. If nothing happens when you turn on the ignition, and when you remove the hose, gasoline is not under pressure, you need to check the electrical circuit of the fuel pump, replacing the failed parts.

And also interesting: Niva engine boring || Niva engine boring

Another typical malfunction that causes the engine to stall is that the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) bracket is broken off. In this case, it is useful to check its fastening, as well as the condition of the wires and connectors.

Fuel rail

On the ramp next to regulator 5 there is a control fitting 3

It is closed with a cap, which is unscrewed, and then carefully pressed on the spool

If fuel flows, it means it is entering the ramp. But perhaps the necessary pressure is not created. Reasons: clogged filter cylinder, pump malfunction, etc.

If fuel does not flow, notice whether the pump turns on when the key is turned to the “I” mark. When the ignition is turned on “cold”, the pump should run for 10 seconds.

Additional mounting block

Know that fuse F2 and relay P4 are responsible for turning on the pump. There is also a main relay P5, and all these elements are located in a block mounted on the same bracket with the ECM (see photo).

Case from practice

What happens if water gets into gasoline? In the summer - nothing. And in winter, the power supply system can become clogged with ice. All elements are at risk, from the pump to the injector valves!

Fuel supply line filter

A small amount of water is always present in fuel. If this number is increased, this is what happens:

1. The first start always goes without problems;
2. Then, after leaving the car in the parking lot, after 2-3 hours the owner will no longer be able to start the engine without repairs.

All of the above applies to any injection internal combustion engine, including the VAZ-2123. And the “first candidate for failure” will be the fuel filter. It is located under the bottom of the Chevrolet Niva and is encased in aluminum (see photo). However, this is done on many cars.

Pumping up excess air

One smart book says that the engine may not start due to the fact that the intake manifold draws in too much air. This means you need to check the fastening of all pipes. But not only.

Vacuum brake booster

The source of “excess air” may be a faulty VUT. The starter turns, the engine on the Chevrolet Niva does not start, and the reason, it turns out, must be sought in the brake system!

We won't look for anything. Let's do it simpler:

1. The vacuum supply hose is removed from the amplifier side (see drawing);
2. The hole in the hose is closed with a finger and one test run is performed;
3. The engine starts, which means the cause has been found.

That's the whole trick. We wish you success!

The starter turns the engine crankshaft, but the engine does not start

The widest range of Niva malfunctions, sometimes combined (several malfunctions at once that prevent the engine from starting and operating), is much more common than others. When describing such cases, we do not take into account engines with a faulty or unregulated gas distribution system, unregulated ignition and fuel supply system.

In frosty weather, the engine may not start due to insufficient battery charge. In this case, it is more advisable to remove it from the car, bring it to a warm room, thaw it, wipe it dry from condensation and charge it to the maximum voltage value.

If you urgently need to start the engine, you should unscrew the spark plugs, clean them of frost or condensation, then screw them back into place and try to start the engine again.

In some cases, you can use the emergency method . Boil water, remove the plastic casing and pour boiling water over the intake manifold. Then try to start again.

Under no circumstances should you start a cold Niva engine “from a pusher” or from a tow. There is a risk of serious damage to it.

How to remove the starter of a VAZ-21213 car

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. We dismantle the air filter housing (see Removing the air filter housing).

Remove the front support bracket securing the intake pipe to the engine support bracket, disconnect the starter heat shield from the exhaust manifold and from the engine support bracket (see Replacing the gasket of the intake pipe and exhaust manifold of an injection engine).

1. Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the bolt of the upper fastening of the starter to the clutch housing (this bolt also secures the rear support bracket of the intake pipe to the clutch housing). Similarly, unscrew the bolts of the middle and lower fastenings of the starter and move the starter forward.

2. Disconnect the traction relay control wire.

3. Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the nut of the positive wire of the starter.

4. Remove the wire. In photo 1, for clarity, the receiver is removed, and in photos 2, 3, 4 - the inlet pipe and exhaust manifold.

5. Move the starter back along the cylinder block

6. Remove the starter.

Removing the starter from a carburetor engine is easier due to the lack of intake pipe support brackets. Install the starter in reverse order

Ignition system is faulty

Another main obstacle to starting a VAZ 2121 gasoline engine is the ignition system. Malfunctions in the heating system of a diesel engine can also make it significantly more difficult, and in cold weather, completely impossible to start it.

If a gasoline engine does not start, you should first check for high voltage on the center wire, or on the spark plugs with a separate ignition system without a distributor.

If the car has a contact (battery) ignition system, you should check the gap between the contacts, the condition of the cam, and also the capacitor. If the gap between the contacts does not correspond to the required value or the capacitor is shorted to ground, the reason has been found !

In other cases, you should definitely check the wires, distributor cap, and spark plug insulators for high voltage leaks. If there are black carbon tracks and cracks on the surface of these parts, they must be replaced.

ignition system is checked in a similar way . Particular attention should be paid to the spark plugs. There should be no traces of soot, soot, or oily deposits on the surface of their electrodes. Only the presence of a gray or brownish-red coating is allowed, which appears as a result of the combustion of various additives in gasoline.

You should also pay attention to the gaps between the central and side electrodes. Typically, the gap should not exceed 0.7 - 0.8 mm. Other parts, for example, quenching resistors and silicone wires should not have a resistance higher than 15 - 20 kOhm. When identifying the cause, also pay attention to the condition of all contacts, the presence of moisture and condensation.

Also interesting: Niva Chevrolet installation of air conditioning - Auto magazine MyDucato

The main difficulty when starting a diesel engine with a known good fuel supply system is faulty glow plugs. To check them, just turn on the voltage supply to them for 10-15 seconds, and then try to start the diesel engine. Glow plugs with a burnt-out spiral are quite difficult to distinguish from serviceable ones, so they must be identified by their electrical resistance. If the spark plug resistance is too low (1 - 5 ohms) or tends to infinity (several megaohms), the spark plug must be replaced.

Disabling the immobilizer yourself

As mentioned above, the need to carry out a procedure to disable the immobilizer may arise if it is unstable or the device breaks down

Pay attention to where the immobilizer is located, because if you don’t know, finding it is quite problematic

This is what the immobilizer unit under the dashboard looks like.

Principle of operation

While the device is being programmed, it saves all information into an independent energy memory (EEPROM). All the source code and the pair of keys that come with this device are also stored there.

Disabling the entire immobilizer can only be done if it is physically disabled, that is, the power will be turned off, and all information will be erased from the ECU memory. In simple words, you need to turn off the power to the device and delete all information about it.

No fuel supply

Often the engine does not start if the fuel supply system . Attempts to start such an engine are usually accompanied by popping noises, shots in the muffler, the appearance of black smoky smoke and a strong smell of gasoline from the exhaust pipe. A malfunction in a carburetor engine is usually determined visually.

It is enough to shine a flashlight into the primary and secondary chambers. If there are traces of gasoline on the walls, and fuel does not spray out of the accelerator pump nozzle, but flows out in a thin stream, it is necessary to urgently identify and eliminate the malfunction. To accurately determine a malfunction in an injection engine, you need special equipment connected to the vehicle’s diagnostic connector, capable of reading error codes and faults .

To determine the serviceability of the injectors, you should disconnect them from the ramp, and then ask an assistant to crank the engine with the starter. If gasoline flows out of the injector nozzle in a thick stream or does not flow out at all, the injector should be washed in an ultrasonic bath or replaced.

To avoid various surprises along the way, it is recommended that you always check all engine systems before leaving, eliminating minor faults. For example, loose contact, friction of wires and hoses on various protrusions, leaks of oil and other liquids, etc.

In this case, you can not only eliminate minor breakdowns, but also identify and prevent more serious ones, which can lead to significant expenditure of effort and money. Always stay mobile. Good luck on the roads!

Fuel rail

On the ramp next to regulator 5 there is a control fitting 3

It is closed with a cap, which is unscrewed, and then carefully pressed on the spool

If fuel flows, it means it is entering the ramp. But perhaps the necessary pressure is not created. Reasons: clogged filter cylinder, pump malfunction, etc.

The pressure should be 350 kPa (3.5 bar). It is controlled by unscrewing the spool and installing a pressure gauge. Before checking, you need to reduce the pressure!

If fuel does not flow, notice whether the pump turns on when the key is turned to the “I” mark. When the ignition is turned on “cold”, the pump should run for 10 seconds.

Additional mounting block

Know that fuse F2 and relay P4 are responsible for turning on the pump. There is also a main relay P5, and all these elements are located in a block mounted on the same bracket with the ECM (see photo).

Even if the pressure is normal, the injectors may be clogged. In addition, their wiring may be damaged.

Case from practice

What happens if water gets into gasoline? In the summer - nothing. And in winter, the power supply system can become clogged with ice. All elements are at risk, from the pump to the injector valves!

Fuel supply line filter

A small amount of water is always present in fuel. If this number is increased, this is what happens:

1. The first start always goes without problems;
2. Then, after leaving the car in the parking lot, after 2-3 hours the owner will no longer be able to start the engine without repairs.

All of the above applies to any injection internal combustion engine, including the VAZ-2123. And the “first candidate for failure” will be the fuel filter. It is located under the bottom of the Chevrolet Niva and is encased in aluminum (see photo). However, this is done on many cars.

Pumping up excess air

One smart book says that the engine may not start due to the fact that the intake manifold draws in too much air. This means you need to check the fastening of all pipes. But not only.

Vacuum brake booster

The source of “excess air” may be a faulty VUT. The starter turns, the engine on the Chevrolet Niva does not start, and the reason, it turns out, must be sought in the brake system!

We won't look for anything. Let's do it simpler:

1. The vacuum supply hose is removed from the amplifier side (see drawing);
2. The hole in the hose is closed with a finger and one test run is performed;
3. The engine starts, which means the cause has been found.

That's the whole trick. We wish you success!

Despite its apparent simplicity, defects in the air supply system are difficult to detect. Check the fit of the hoses on the fittings and the tightness of all clamps.

Modification: heat protection casing

As a rule, the starting device on the Niva and other domestic cars begins to deteriorate like this. At first it is difficult to start the engine, then a whistle appears. When parked for a long time, the car does not start at all, and the battery quickly runs out. If the device is not diagnosed in such a situation, the problem will get worse. There are usually two reasons why the starter is not checked immediately:

• battery - if replaced, the battery will withstand a faulty starter for some time, and the engine will start properly;
• wires and terminals are cleaned of rust, which improves the current supply and plant, but also for a short time.

The real fault is hidden inside the starter. It is noteworthy that at this time the engine starts easily, as soon as it cools down. When hot, it is impossible or extremely difficult to spin the crankshaft. Hitting the front starter cover with something heavy helps, but for how long? Sooner or later, the starter is disassembled, and the cause of all troubles is determined.

One of the factors for the early failure of the starter on the VAZ-21213 is a coolant leak. Most car owners do not even notice how antifreeze drips onto the electrical contacts of the starter. This will undoubtedly cause over time:

• damage to brushes and bendix;
• interturn closure;
• oxidation of terminals and other unpleasant things.

Replacing brushes is easy. It’s good that Russian starters are easy to dismantle, disassemble and damage. The brush assembly is located directly in the rear cover of the starter along with the bushing - it is also worth checking at the same time. Bendix is ​​located under the front cover. To remove it, you must first release the adjusting and thrust washers, then pull out the restrictor ring from the drive.

Now about a small modification that will protect the starter not only from aggressive liquids, but also from overheating. We are talking about installing a heat shield - like the generator on the VAZ-21213. It is best to use plastic for these purposes - a regular, unnecessary 5-liter canister will do. A piece measuring 20x15 cm is cut out of it. Then it is cut with scissors according to a pre-designed shape and a protective cover is obtained, the side overhangs of which reliably protect the starter. Can be mounted with one bolt.

Voltage blocking alarm

Modern security systems fully control the car, its elements and assemblies. In emergency situations, the alarm will prevent theft, but the alarm may be false.

The reasons for the “false call” are caused by:

• manufacturing defects,
• short circuit in the circuit,
• malfunctions in the operation of the electronic control unit,
• damage to electrical wiring, insulation,
• poor terminal contact.

In order to be able to start the car in the future, you need to deactivate the alarm. However, you need to know what to turn off. To carry out work at a professional level, visit a service station.

Selection of components

The original starter is produced by LADA and comes in the original blue packaging. It is marked with article number 21214-3708010-01. The cost of this part is from four to five thousand rubles, depending on the store.

To avoid stumbling upon a fake, carefully examine the box. The presence of extraneous logos, absence of an article number on the box, or color mismatch is unacceptable. The low price should alert you.

Alternative options are produced by companies such as Fenox, Krauf, Valeo. The listed brands are distinguished by high quality products and fairly affordable prices. The price for starters varies from 2200 to 4700 rubles.

Set of "electrical" reasons

The first step in diagnostics: remove the cap from any spark plug, install spark plug A17DVRM and, holding it with pliers, turn on the starter.

How to remove the cap

The spark plug must be held by the hexagon, the pliers must have insulated handles, and the spark plug body must touch the “ground”. As a result, a spark can be observed. If there is no spark, it means:

• The ECM is faulty or is not receiving voltage;
• The ignition coil module burned out;
• High voltage wires are faulty.

The drawing for point “1” is given below.

Power supply point to the ECM

The presence of a spark “in the air” does not guarantee its presence in the engine. The spark plugs may be faulty, the gap may be incorrect, etc.

The number of reasons why the Chevrolet Niva does not start, but the starter turns, has increased to 7.

Immobilizer blocks engine starting

If the immobilizer has been activated, then sooner or later it will block the engine from starting. It happens like this: when you turn on the ignition, the indicator flashes for 15 seconds, then goes out. And then the system produces sound signals.

“2” – immobilizer lamp

The APS-4 module can be disabled. For this you need a “red” training key. Well, the APS-6 unit cannot be turned off. Usually you have to flash the ECM.

There is no need to panic right away: perhaps the blocking occurs due to irregularities in the “reader” wiring.

What original or analogue can I supply?

If the starter does not turn, you can simply replace it. Typically, in a store, the buyer has a choice between two options:

• original;
• analogue

They differ not only in their quality, but also in their durability. The easiest way to study visual differences is in the photo. Original starter:

But the cost of the original starter is usually at least 3.5 thousand rubles. That’s why many people opt for analogues. There are many other manufacturers on the Russian market that are not certified by AvtoVAZ. If possible, you should choose well-established brands. The optimal solution would be:

It is important to remember: all starters have different resources and may differ in size. It is advisable to arm yourself with a ruler and tape measure before going to the store. This will allow you to avoid purchasing a device that is not suitable in size. Some manufacturers produce equipment that can be installed on various vehicle models. The price depends significantly on the manufacturer.

Before purchasing an analogue, you need to familiarize yourself with the brand. For example, Bosch has proven itself to be good. The equipment he produces is durable and does not cause difficulties in repair. There is a list of manufacturing companies recommended by AvtoVAZ itself. It is advisable to familiarize yourself with all the nuances and subtleties of installation in advance. This will allow you to select it at the start and install it later yourself.

conclusions

Having determined exactly whether there is a particular problem that is preventing the engine from starting, you can know for sure whether you can do this work yourself, or whether you will have to use the services of a car repair shop.

In most cases, you can do it yourself, since the replacement work is not complicated. An important aspect will be the fact where the work will be done, on the street or in the garage, since in the case of the latter, no natural phenomena will force you to finish the work for reasons beyond your control.

CARBURETTOR ICE

Of course, the engine may not start due to a malfunction of individual carburetor elements (contamination of jets, channels) or incorrect adjustment. If fuel does not flow, it is necessary to defect the fuel pump parts.

If you understand that fuel is being supplied to the intake manifold, but there is no ignition of the fuel-air mixture, you should “dig” in the following direction:

• Unscrew the spark plugs and evaluate the carbon deposits. If you are unable to start the engine right away, you may have already “flooded” the spark plugs. Now it is advisable to unscrew and dry them in any case;
• disconnect the main armor wire, bringing it closer to the metal part. Try turning the motor. You will immediately notice a spark if it comes to the ignition distributor. You should also check the armored wires for “breakdown”;
• If there is no spark on the main wire, carefully inspect the wires for breaks. If the circuit connections are in good condition, you should proceed to checking the coil. It is she who generates the spark;
• ignition distributor and its cover. Check the size of the gap, the cleanliness of the contacts, and the presence of play. Of course, if the ignition is not set correctly, the car will not start.

Messages 10

1 Topic by Djin 2014-05-03 22:13:33 (2014-05-03 22:15:12 edited by Djin)

• Djin
• New member
• Inactive

• Registration: 2014-03-20
• Messages: 14Thanks: 9
• Car: VAZ 21102

Topic: Resolved: Starter does not turn over when engine is warm (after driving)

Good day! The essence of the problem is that when the car is cold it starts, the starter always fires, but when you drive it (i.e. it warms up), turn it off, and start to start the starter does not work. Sometimes it starts 2 times, sometimes it takes 2 minutes to turn the key back and forth and then it locks. If the starter does not operate, the indicators on the instrument panel dim. This was done to solve the problem (it didn’t help): all the terminals on the battery are screwed on and cleaned well; The (+) wiring to the starter is also cleaned and tightly put on. I ask for help and advice. The retractors die.

2 Reply from igorek 2014-05-03 22:41:18

• igorek
• Brother-in-law
• Inactive

• From: Bryansk region g Starodub
• Registration: 2013-05-05
• Messages: 416Thanks: 191
• Car: VAZ-21102 1.5i-8V Bosch MP7.0H

Djin, look at the starter relay, perhaps the contact group in the ignition switch is also what the brain does. also the wiring of the connection point of the chips, the voltage drawdown from the poor contact somewhere, good luck in the search

3 Reply from Sergey VAZ 2111 2014-05-04 15:20:14

• Sergey VAZ 2111
• Connoisseur
• Inactive

• Registration: 2013-11-21
• Messages: 513Thanks: 145
• Car: VAZ 2111

check the wires when the engine is hot.

4 Reply from klimashov.roman 2014-05-05 09:26:41

• klimashov.roman
• Connoisseur
• Inactive

• From: Kasimov
• Registration: 2014-04-21
• Messages: 743Thanks: 143
• Car: GAZelle 33023 dv 405.22, 2.4 16kl 140hp

The contact group is unlikely since the problem is described during heating. The relay might be worth a look. Most likely the retractor or the entire starter itself. I had the same problem, no matter how I treated it, replacing the retractor only gave a temporary effect. Disassembling the starter is the only way you will find out the reason. I struggled with money for a long time, threw away half the cost of the starter and ended up having to buy a new one. If you want, disassemble the retractor itself and look at the spots, if they are burnt, clean them, put everything back and lubricate the starter itself with oil, just don’t pour too much without fanaticism. It should work out

5 Reply from Zloy 2014-05-06 22:01:29 (2014-05-06 22:10:18 edited by Zloy)

• Wicked
• New member
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• Registration: 2014-01-20
• Messages: 7 Thanks: 2
• Car: VAZ-21102

And who’s stopping you (when it won’t start) to apply + directly from the battery to the starter control contact (after disconnecting the chip from the ignition switch or the starter relay - depending on the year of manufacture of the car). Do this with the ignition on and the gear off. If the car starts, then the starter is normal, look for a problem in the ignition switch or wiring, or in the starter relay if there is one (most cars did not have one).

6 Reply from Serg 2014-05-11 09:18:57

• Serg
• Lada2111.rf fan
• Inactive

• Registration: 2013-07-29
• Messages: 830Thanks: 363
• Car: 2111 dwg 2114 year 2008

The problem is trivial and as old as the world - a hidden defect of the manufacturer - modern starters do not have a starter winding; instead, powerful magnets are installed with a small gap between the armature and the stator; when cold, during further operation this gap is masked and therefore, when the starter is cold, the armature can rotate even to some minimum level. then with warming up the gap is selected by temperature expansion and the armature jams tightly - there are two options: the first is to disassemble and wash the stator (at the same time do maintenance), if the magnet(s) are unstuck then option two. new

• Jigull
• New member
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• Registration: 2014-05-11
• Messages: 2Thanks: 0
• Car: VAZ 21124

Communities Chevrolet Niva Blog Won’t start…

The car does not start, the starter turns but does not catch a sneeze at all..., a spark , the check does not light, I do not have a phase sensor, I changed the crankshaft sensor (a couple of weeks ago, with the same symptoms, it was the cause), the pump is not heard (it has never been you can hear), when you press the spool on the ramp, sometimes gasoline splashes, sometimes there is silence (I check after each attempt to start, although last time it was the same...) I changed the pump relay (the fuses behind the glove compartment are intact, the power is in the pump chip (the test showed a gray-black wire yes ), when you turn on the ignition, the immobilizer behaves as usual, the main relay turns on... What's wrong?

The procedure for returning the car to “life”

Let's say you find yourself in circumstances where the injection engine starts poorly or refuses to do so at all. There is no need to hesitate in such a situation - it is advisable to immediately begin resuscitation procedures. If you don’t have time to figure out the exact reason why the car doesn’t start well, then you should quickly carry out the following algorithm of actions:

1. First of all, we check the availability of gasoline and battery charge. Is there something missing? Fill it up and light it up. Let's try to start. If there is no result, proceed to the next step;
2. Next, we quickly analyze under what circumstances the car malfunctions. If it takes a long time or is difficult to start when hot, we first check the spark plugs for overheating (light carbon deposits) and the functioning of the fuel system. Otherwise, when the car malfunctions both cold and hot, a more comprehensive approach is required. As a rule, the following procedures are sufficient: checking spark plugs, wiring the ignition system, assessing the operation of the injector and fuel system;
3. Note that most motorists manage to solve the problem, so to speak, with little loss, that is, by implementing the actions described above. If you are not one of the lucky ones and your car still takes a long time, starts poorly or refuses to work at all, you will have to act globally. Here it is better to take the car to a service station or a convenient garage and check the compression, timing adjustment, clean the injector, assess the condition of the fuel system and ignition devices. If there are any malfunctions, they must, of course, be eliminated.

Removing and installing the starter

The starter on a Niva rarely has to be changed, but if you have a need for this, the instructions below will be very useful. First, it’s worth considering the necessary list of tools with which doing all this will be very simple and will not take much time.

1. Key for 13
2. Ratchet with small extension
3. Head for 10

Detailed guide to replacing the starter on Niva VAZ 2121

• First of all, open the hood of the car and disconnect all the power wires from the starter structure. To do this, you will need to unscrew the nuts that secure the terminals with a 10mm head. It is impossible to get there with a regular wrench, so a ratchet with a head and an extension would be an ideal option. We feel for the terminal nuts with our hands and, using the ratchet handle, unscrew them one by one.

• To show everything clearly, look at the photo below; the key is inserted just under the Niva’s exhaust manifold:

• And after that, you can freely disconnect the power wires, which are not attached to anything else:

• Next, take a 13mm wrench, it’s more convenient to use a spanner, and unscrew the 2 bolts securing the starter housing to the engine. But there may be three of them; personally, in my example there were only 2.

• And then you can shoot it to the right, as clearly shown in the photo below:

• And turning it a little to the side, we take it out without any problems:

As you have seen for yourself, there is nothing complicated in this repair, the main thing is that you have all the necessary tools at hand and then any work on your Niva will be done quickly and without unnecessary nerves.

We install the VAZ 2121 starter in the reverse order of removal. If necessary, we replace it with a new part.